80-96-list-digest Thursday, May 28 1998 Volume 02 : Number 188



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Re: Tailgate Lettering Kit
FTE 80-96 - Re: Water Leak
RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Water Leak
FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"
Re: FTE 80-96 - Problem
Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"
FTE 80-96 - Re: Truck Painting
FTE 80-96 - Brake Vacuum Booster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Vacuum Booster
RE: FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"
Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"
FTE 80-96 - 300 I-6 Performance camshaft?
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Ranchero list?
FTE 80-96 - Aerostar Heater hose & steering wheel
> Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Vacuum Booster
Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Vacuum Booster
FTE 80-96 - Newbie and Towing Question
FTE 80-96 - Towing
Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"

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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 09:10:12 -0700
From: "Bowman, John A"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Tailgate Lettering Kit

Casey,

I am glad I don't live in Alaska! The paint job was done by the dealer
(Chebucto Ford) and cost $2000 (tax in). There was only two finger size
holes in the box to repair and a number of small denets from 15 yrs of
farm work. It was redone in original Candy Apple Red (2K) and looks
great. I suppose the quality of a paint job can only be judged after 1
year or so.

As far as the tailgate letters go, they were a vinyl sticker and were
original with the truck. Maybe they were a dealer add on? I have located
a new replacement set for a 80 - 83 Styleside from Bayou City Ford in
Huston Texas and will be shipped this week.

*************************************
J.A. Bowman,P.Eng.
1983 F100 - "Big Red"
email: jbowman MTT.CA
************************************


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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 09:23:25 -0700
From: "Bowman, John A"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Water Leak

I had a minor flood in the cab of my 83 F100 yesterday. Drivers side
foot well had enough water in it to keep my feet damp. I had to open the
door to let it out! I am not sure where it came from... but here are the
clues (this is the first time this has happened!):

1. I washed the truck on Sunday and noticed a slow drip of water from
bottom of fender behind the front wheel on driver's side hours after the
wash.
2. It rained rather heavy (no wind) yesterday and after work while
driving home I noticed water on the floor arround the side kick panel. I
had the lower vent in the kick panel open and stuck my finger in the
vent and found it full of water! by the time I got home it was empty but
I removed the door sill plate and had to sponge out the water in the
chanel underneath.

I looked underneath and searched for a drain that might be plugged and
the only holes in the area seemed open. Is there a drain for that vent
cavity? Where else should I be looking for the sorce of the leak?

*************************************
J.A. Bowman,P.Eng.
1983 F100 - "Big Red"
email: jbowman MTT.CA
************************************


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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 08:04:01 -0500
From: "SSG D"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Re: Water Leak

> I removed the door sill plate and had to sponge out
> the water in the
> chanel underneath.
>
> I looked underneath and searched for a drain that
> might be plugged and
> the only holes in the area seemed open. Is there a
> drain for that vent
> cavity? Where else should I be looking for the sorce
> of the leak?
>

Many years ago I worked in a glass shop replacing windshields and
house glass. I have seen a number older vehicles that have rusted
and eroded windshield channels which causes leaks. The
windshields have a channel the glass sit against and rests on 2
or 3 rubber stops at the bottom (unless its still factory, in
which it will not have the rest stops) and it will have a rubber
tape between a primmer windshield edge and vehicle body. Normally
its the body portion that first decays and begins to rust, thus
leaking. If this is the case, remove all molding clips, clean out
visible channel, feed piano wire through the tape (heat end of
wire and push through) of the windshield, attach inside and
outside wire to wood blocks and see-saw the wire in and out and
cut the tape, remove windshield, clean channel, primmer, new 1/2
to 5/8 in tape, insert rubber rest stops, primmer windshield, set
windshield, press windshield, caulk top to sides of windshield,
replace molding. I shouldn't have to caution you on the
importance of this glass breaking. Older glass can and will break
more easily than new because of all the little pits and nicks
that already have small runs in them.

Hope this helps!

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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 08:36:09 -0500
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"

While cleaning my rearview mirror on my '92 F250, it popped off and now I
need to glue it back on. The instructions on the adhesive I bought at
AutoZone say to remove the metal "button" from the base of the mirror and
glue it on the windshield before installing the mirror 15 minutes later. I
have tried to remove this button from the mirror but cannot find the trigger
to release it. Can anyone who has done this in the past let me in on the
secret?

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas
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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 09:38:00 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Problem

At 08:08 PM 5/26/98 EDT, you wrote:
>
>80>Next time you get it fixed, make sure they plane it and add
>80>a good sealant (RTV) to the gasket.
>
>80>Ken Payne
>
>Ken, a rear seal on an 89 2.9 is a one piece lipped seal. It pops out
>with some sheet metal screws and goes in with a special installer tool.
>It is real easy to nick and hard to get in straight without this tool.
>
>Please explain what "plane it" means. I have never heard this term
>used in conjunction with a rear main seal. Thanks.
>
>Buck Shoff
>

Buck,

Perhaps I should have explained in better terms. I do not mean
"plane" as in planing heads because a head gasket won't lay right.
There's no way to do that with a rear main. I meant plane as in
getting out a soft metal/hard plastic scraper and taking off the
old gunk. This applies to both rubber and cork. Rubber is used
in conjunction with RTV and many times some RTV gets stuck in
a thin layer. Too many people are too lazy to get off every bit
of it. Same applies to cork gaskets, except it usually leaves
hard pieces of cork. Also, a thin layer of RTV on the side without
the lip is a must. One little nick in the metal can start a leak
if it isn't covered with gasket prep (used with cork) or RTV
silicone (usually used with rubber but works with cork).

Also, along these lines, a big reason for premature gasket failure
is improperly torqueing something. Many believe that all you have
to do is tighten the crap out of something and it won't leak. Wrong!
This will cause leaks because the part and/or the gasket may warp
from uneven torque. Torque the part to the recommended amount, no
more, and in the recommended pattern.

Ken Payne

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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 09:50:12 -0400
From: "Christian J Hedemark II"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"

> While cleaning my rearview mirror on my '92 F250, it popped off and now I
> need to glue it back on. The instructions on the adhesive I bought at
> AutoZone say to remove the metal "button" from the base of the mirror and
> glue it on the windshield before installing the mirror 15 minutes later.
> I have tried to remove this button from the mirror but cannot find the
> trigger to release it. Can anyone who has done this in the past let me in
> on the secret?

There's a hex nut on the other side of the mirror that goes through the base and
clamps onto the button. Give it a few counterclockwise turns and the button
should slide right out.

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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 10:29:51 EDT
From: BFunk33
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Truck Painting

In a message dated 98-05-27 06:01:13 EDT, you write:

> From: "Casey Vandor"
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Tailgate Lettering
>
> On my '83 F-250, the tailgate letters are painted on to begin with. (not
> stickers) I actually painted mine white when I got it, because the person
I
> got it from had always used the brown wax over top of them and they were
> very dingy. (it looked rather bad becasue they stood out like a sore
thumb,
> so I polished em up with brown wax a few times) The same goes for the
> racing stripes, but I can't paint them. Just curious, how much was the
> paint job? In Ketchikan Alaska, depending on which of the two shops you go
> to, for a fullsize pickup paintjob, it is 4,500 to 5,000.
>
> Thanks
> Casey

WOW! That's expensive, unless it includes a bunch of body work. Well, it SEEMS
expensive, anyway.
Here in Phoenix, we just had our '91 F-250 SC painted with latex enamel (the
cheaper paint)
instead of color coat/clear coat; the cost was hard to figure, since State
Farm helped with the body work & painting (a Ch #y pickup truck ran a STOP
sign in Texas), but with the minor body work we had done, and not including
the accident-required body work, about $2500 was the cost. We didn't pay that
much, of course.
Now that the truck looks so nice, we will probably trade it in on an
Expedition within a year; the pickup doesn't fit our needs anymore. We need
something that will carry more people, and get better mileage.

Bill
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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 07:52:54 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Brake Vacuum Booster

How do you go about testing a brake vacuum booster to see if it's working. I
have to stand on my brakes to make an emergency stop. It's almost impossible
to lock up any of the wheels. It's scary in an emergency situation.
Thanks
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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 12:09:15 -0600
From: Ryan Dorman
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Removing Rearview Mirror "Button"

There is a little hole in the bracket, find an allen wrench that fits & loosen
the set screw..
Be careful when you glue the mounting "button" to the windshield as its easy to
put it on upside down or backwards. (ok I admit there was a case of beer
involved when I made this mistake.)

A little hint on getting it to stay in place longer than a week is to rough the
surface of the "button"
up with a screwdriver or sandpaper (glue sticks to glass fine but needs a
porous surface to stick to the metal and hold)...
Beaman, James wrote:

> While cleaning my rearview mirror on my '92 F250, it popped off and now I
> need to glue it back on. The instructions on the adhesive I bought at
> AutoZone say to remove the metal "button" from the base of the mirror and
> glue it on the windshield before installing the mirror 15 minutes later. I
> have tried to remove this button from the mirror but cannot find the trigger
> to release it. Can anyone who has done this in the past let me in on the
> secret?


- --
58 F-100 292 sb 2wd
85 Bronco 300 IL6 4x4
97 F-150 4.6 sb ext cab 4x4
(and several others in progress)
- --
KC7YPJ, Ryan Dorman
QTH: Victor ID, grid# DN431c
ICQ #3834602
kc7ypj pdt.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/5496


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Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 08:26:43 -0700
From: "Mike Miller"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Brake Vacuum Booster

This sounds exactly like my 85 F250 6.9 diesel. Please let me know what you....

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