80-96-list-digest Thursday, May 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 170



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Differences between the E4OD and 4R100 transmissions
RE: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w'
RE: FTE 80-96 - Jokes
Re: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w'
Re: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w' 300 I6
RE: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w'
Re: FTE 80-96 - Lost Power
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Jokes
FTE 80-96 - RE: performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w' 300 I6
FTE 80-96 - F250 noises
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
FTE 80-96 - F350 4x4 Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 4x4 Problems

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 06:34:40 EDT
From: Dhawk21
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Differences between the E4OD and 4R100 transmissions

I would like to know if the 4R100 automatic transmission is the same as the
E4OD. How can I find out if the internal parts have the same numbers. Would
like others that have had problems with their E4OD transmissions email me :
DHawk21 aol.com
Have gone thru 7 transmissions in our 94 crewcab dually and wondering if
others are having these kind of problems in there E4OD.
hawk
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 7:46 -0600
From: "Chad D. Cassetty"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w'

Welcome to the list! I have a 95F150 w/300 I6, so I'll try to help as
much as I can. See my comments inserted in your original message below:

-----Original Message-----
From: Brewer, Jim [SMTP:80-96-list ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Wednesday 10:43 AM
To: 'smtp:80-96-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w' 300 I6



I just subscribed to this list, and I'm an e-mail rookie, so I hope you
can
forgive any mistakes I make in this process:

I recently purchased a used '95 F-150 4X4 XLT with a 300 cu. in. I-6,
5-speed manual, manual locking hubs, in incredibly pristine condition.
The
previous owner was/is very meticulous, like me, so I got lucky.

I like to care good care of my stuff, and always like to see my machines
run
as efficiently as possible. I've made no modifications to my truck, yet,

and I'm trying to get educated on what performance
enhancements/accessories,
etc. are available for my truck that will make it run the best (i.e.,
best
mileage, power, reliability, durability, etc.).

I'm not a "4-wheeler fanatic", so-to-speak, but I want this truck to get
me
into AND OUT OF tough spots. The primary use of this truck is as a
hunting
vehicle. I have a canopy ("topper"?) on the long box, which makes the
truck
great for short hunting/camping trips.

I don't really want to spend big bucks for performance mods, but I am
interested in the best ways to get the most from the truck (e.g., less
restrictive intake/exhaust, powerchip, best lubricants and filters in the

engine and drivetrain, etc.)
[Chad D. Cassetty]
I made two mods to mine that had a dramatic improvement. 1. Removed
stock air box (intake) and replaced with K&N FIPK (Fuel Injection
Performance Kit). It is an open-element filter assembly. It's boosted
tourque and throttle response. Part number 57-2503 is what you need. 2.
I replaced the stock ignition system with a Holley HP Annihilator
Ignition box and a Holley LaserShot coil. This made an increase in
milage, throttle response, and idle quality. Both mods were good. You
should consider replacing your exhaust (cat-back, anyway). The more it
breathes, the better it will perform!
What sort of mileage do you think I should expect from this truck,
assuming
no wind, steady speed highway driving)?
[Chad D. Cassetty]
Gee, I can't answer that one. I'm geared pretty low and I run the crap
out of it on the interstate.

One other thing: I seem to be feeling just a bit of quiet grinding on my

shifts from 1st to 2nd gears consistently. My shifts have been careful,
and
I've tried different shifting methods to help the synchros, but I still
get
the very slight grinding. It's as though this is a characteristic of
this
specific transmission model. I talked to a friend who has the same truck

model/year/engine/transmission, and he gets the same thing.
[Chad D. Cassetty]
I have a 5-speed, also. Be forwarned that the 1-2 shift grinding will
only get worse. I had my tranny rebuilt three times for this exact
problem.
Forgive the length of this post, but I thought that I'd try to cover as
much
as I can in one posting. I'd sure appreciate any input/recommendations
that
you folks can give about these things. Thanks.

P.S. Should I, or should I not be including my own e-mail address at the
end
of my postings, so that you can mail me privately, if you wish?
[Chad D. Cassetty]
If you're comfortable giving out your address, go ahead! That's what
makes friends across the 'Net!

Jim Brewer
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 7:48 -0600
From: "Chad D. Cassetty"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Jokes

Looks like your email address is "Just Chevies"?? ;-)

Chad

-----Original Message-----
From: Justchev [SMTP:80-96-list ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Wednesday 8:17 PM
To: 80-96-list
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Jokes


If you have any good Chevy jokes please send them to me. I dispise
Chevrolet,
No one is better than ford.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 07:01:49 -0600
From: Ryan Penner
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w'

Chad D. Cassetty wrote:

> One other thing: I seem to be feeling just a bit of quiet grinding on my
>
> shifts from 1st to 2nd gears consistently. My shifts have been careful,
> and
> I've tried different shifting methods to help the synchros, but I still
> get
> the very slight grinding. It's as though this is a characteristic of
> this
> specific transmission model. I talked to a friend who has the same truck
>
> model/year/engine/transmission, and he gets the same thing.
> [Chad D. Cassetty]
> I have a 5-speed, also. Be forwarned that the 1-2 shift grinding will
> only get worse. I had my tranny rebuilt three times for this exact
> problem.
> Forgive the length of this post, but I thought that I'd try to cover as
> much
> as I can in one posting. I'd sure appreciate any input/recommendations
> that
> you folks can give about these things. Thanks.
>
> P.S. Should I, or should I not be including my own e-mail address at the
> end
> of my postings, so that you can mail me privately, if you wish?
> [Chad D. Cassetty]
> If you're comfortable giving out your address, go ahead! That's what
> makes friends across the 'Net!
>
> Jim Brewer


This is normal on all of those transmissions, the key is to pull out of
the
gear that you are shifting from wait in the netruel position for a
moment (1-2 seconds) the slowly pull down into the next gear. I have
been shifting this way for a long time, and it seems to keep it from
grinding so much. My dad who owned a construction company for the
longest
time had these problems on all of the Fords. Their solution was the
same
as mine just take a little more time to shift and that should make the
whole thing last longer.

Ryan Penner
1991 F-150 Custom (179,000 miles)
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 09:22:00 -0400
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w' 300 I6

Hey Jim,

AT LEAST YOUR NOT TYPING IN ALL CAPS or all lowercase, even when you use ford or i!
Also, people can see your private e-mail in your post. ("Brewer, Jim"
)

In my oppinion, you usually see a little more power and gas mileage with a decent
header and exauhst system. There seems to be mixed oppinion on chips and high perf.
air filters on the list. Some people have also said they've had good results with
synthetic fluids in the diffs and tranny.

Good luck,
Chad

Brewer, Jim wrote:
>
> I just subscribed to this list, and I'm an e-mail rookie, so I hope you can
> forgive any mistakes I make in this process:
>
> I recently purchased a used '95 F-150 4X4 XLT with a 300 cu. in. I-6,
> 5-speed manual, manual locking hubs, in incredibly pristine condition. The
> previous owner was/is very meticulous, like me, so I got lucky.
>
> I like to care good care of my stuff, and always like to see my machines run
> as efficiently as possible. I've made no modifications to my truck, yet,
> and I'm trying to get educated on what performance enhancements/accessories,
> etc. are available for my truck that will make it run the best (i.e., best
> mileage, power, reliability, durability, etc.).
>
> I'm not a "4-wheeler fanatic", so-to-speak, but I want this truck to get me
> into AND OUT OF tough spots. The primary use of this truck is as a hunting
> vehicle. I have a canopy ("topper"?) on the long box, which makes the truck
> great for short hunting/camping trips.
>
> I don't really want to spend big bucks for performance mods, but I am
> interested in the best ways to get the most from the truck (e.g., less
> restrictive intake/exhaust, powerchip, best lubricants and filters in the
> engine and drivetrain, etc.)
>
> What sort of mileage do you think I should expect from this truck, assuming
> no wind, steady speed highway driving)?
>
> One other thing: I seem to be feeling just a bit of quiet grinding on my
> shifts from 1st to 2nd gears consistently. My shifts have been careful, and
> I've tried different shifting methods to help the synchros, but I still get
> the very slight grinding. It's as though this is a characteristic of this
> specific transmission model. I talked to a friend who has the same truck
> model/year/engine/transmission, and he gets the same thing.
>
> Forgive the length of this post, but I thought that I'd try to cover as much
> as I can in one posting. I'd sure appreciate any input/recommendations that
> you folks can give about these things. Thanks.
>
> P.S. Should I, or should I not be including my own e-mail address at the end
> of my postings, so that you can mail me privately, if you wish?
>
> Jim Brewer
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 8:56 -0600
From: "Chad D. Cassetty"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w'

Is this what's referred to as a "double-clutch"?

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Penner [SMTP:80-96-list ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Thursday 7:01 AM
To: 80-96-list
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w'



This is normal on all of those transmissions, the key is to pull out of
the
gear that you are shifting from wait in the netruel position for a
moment (1-2 seconds) the slowly pull down into the next gear. I have
been shifting this way for a long time, and it seems to keep it from
grinding so much. My dad who owned a construction company for the
longest
time had these problems on all of the Fords. Their solution was the
same
as mine just take a little more time to shift and that should make the
whole thing last longer.

Ryan Penner
1991 F-150 Custom (179,000 miles)
= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 10:36:33 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Lost Power

Fuel filter
air filter
plugs
cap+rotor
wires
clean the throttle body
run a few tanks of gas with injector cleaner.

If that doesn't do the trick.......hmm.....
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Meade
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 6:09 PM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Lost Power


>The problem is that my 86 F150 302EFI seems to have lost its get up and
>go.
>
>Hauled the fish'n boat to Lake Kissimmee this past weekend and it was
>like
>
>pulling a rail car uphill. It runs great with no exhaust smoke of any
>color. There
>
>are no unusual engine noises other than an infrequent and slightly
>audible lifter
>
>clatter. The original power was adequate for my needs. What can I do
>to regain
>
>all or most of the original power? I not interested in a major overhaul
>unless
>
>necessary. Thanks to all.
>
>John
>A poor 'ole dumb Florida Cracker
>
>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
>Send posts to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
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>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
>=======================================================================

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 10:40:12 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings

- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Kennedy
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings


>From Chilton's:
>If equipped with a Dana 44 IFS or 44 IFS HD front driving axle, adjust as
>follows:
>1. Using tool T59T-1197-B and a torque wrench, tighten the bearing
>adjusting nut to 59 ft. lbs., while rotating the wheel back and forth to
>seat the bearings.


That's about my "pretty tight"

>2. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 60 degrees.
>
>3. Retighten the adjusting nut to 15 ft. lbs. Remove the tool and torque
>wrench.


That's around "snug, but not real tight"

>4. Inspect end-play of the wheel on the spindle. It should be 0.00-0.006
>in. If excess end-play is present, re-torque the bearings.


My "It shoudn't wiggle, but should still turn freely."
Sounds good to me. If "Cooter", "Goober", and "Gomer" can do it, so can I.
;-)


>Next step covers Dana 50 IFS and Dana 60.
>
>I know how some people feel about CHilton's...
>
>My .02
>
>Bob
>
>At 02:00 PM 5/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>I like the ATF idea. and since no one can seem to agree on the torque for
>>the bearing, I was going to just torque them down real tight with a 3/8"
>>wrench, back off the nut, and tighten them down again until the rotor will
>>not spin easily, then loosen the nut until the rotor spins correctly, and
>>set the pin.
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: FordboyDZ
>>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>>Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 6:23 AM
>>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
>>
>>
>>>Dave'
>>>Your going to need a torque wrench & the specs to tighten
>>>the axle nut on assembly My dana 50 is 50 ft# first to seat
>>>the bearings, loosen, then retorque to 35ft#, then back off
>>>about 45 degrees and install the locks.A44 might be different.
>>>Get a needle for your grease gun. It works great for packing
>>>bearings. I live in Pa. and out here the dealer told me never
>>>to use any type of grease on the auto hub itself due to cold
>>>weather engagement problems. They said to use ATF
>>>instead.
>>>Hope this helps,
>>>Dave Zarnesky
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
>>>Send posts to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>>>Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
>>>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
>>>=======================================================================
>>
>>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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>>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
>>=======================================================================
>>
>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
>=======================================================================

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 09:01:01 -0600
From: Dave Mcdonald
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Jokes

Mebbe it's short for 'Just Chevy Jokes, Pleas'? There's only so much one
can do with 8 characters :)

Dave


Chad D. Cassetty wrote:

> Looks like your email address is "Just Chevies"?? ;-)
>
> Chad
>



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 10:19:39 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w' 300 I6

I just gave my son a similar truck. His has 32-11.50 tires, soon to be
replaced with 30 or 31-9.50s, and no topper. Use will be similar to
yours with the hunting and off roading in Colorado mountains. We are
collecting data on mileage and it appears to be getting close to 20 mpg,
corrected for tire size, on the highway but in town it drops to 12 or
13. He is experiencing gear clash between 2 and 3. This is a great
truck. We carried a ton and a quarter of compost 80 miles into the
mountains with it the first weekend we had it and it had plenty of power
and carried the load well.

Larry

>Date: Wed, 13 May 98 10:43:00 PDT
>From: "Brewer, Jim"
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - performance/mileage improvements, '95 f150 w' 300
I6

>I just subscribed to this list, and I'm an e-mail rookie, so I hope you
can
>forgive any mistakes I make in this process:

>I recently purchased a used '95 F-150 4X4 XLT with a 300 cu. in. I-6,
>5-speed manual, manual locking hubs, in incredibly pristine condition.
The
>previous owner was/is very meticulous, like me, so I got lucky.


>I'm not a "4-wheeler fanatic", so-to-speak, but I want this truck to
get me
>into AND OUT OF tough spots. The primary use of this truck is as a
hunting
>vehicle. I have a canopy ("topper"?) on the long box, which makes the
truck
>great for short hunting/camping trips.


>What sort of mileage do you think I should expect from this truck,
assuming
>no wind, steady speed highway driving)?

>One other thing: I seem to be feeling just a bit of quiet grinding on
my
>shifts from 1st to 2nd gears consistently. My shifts have been
careful, and
>I've tried different shifting methods to help the synchros, but I still
get
>the very slight grinding. It's as though this is a characteristic of
this
>specific transmission model. I talked to a friend who has the same
truck
>model/year/engine/transmission, and he gets the same thing.


>Jim Brewer

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 12:42:44 EDT
From: FordboyDZ
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F250 noises

Randy,
If it is a longer truck such as a long bed extended cab it
could be the transmission crossmember. This problem
has a habit of appearing after the truck has been exposed
to some flexing.The crossmember is bolted to the frame
and starts to move. The only way to really determine if
this is your problem is to get under the truck and have
someone hold the brake and give it gas in drive. {Be nice
to your wife or buddie that day and be careful!} If you
find this is your problem there are a number of fixes.
Ford makes plastic inserts that go in between the frame
and crossmember that last about 6 months,but the Ford
Truck List members are very resourceful and have many
fixes for this problem.I got a lot of good ideas from here
when I had this problem.
Good luck,
Dave Zarnesky
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 10:56:17 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings

>From: Randy
>Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
>
>I'll be tearing into my '87 F-250HD Dana 50 this
>weekend to replace the rotors if they need it.
>What do I need to complete the job. I mean
>things like 'O'-rings or other seals in there.
>The spindle socket is under 20 bucks at Auto
>Zone so I'm getting that. I already have a torque
>wrench and impact gun (lug nuts). When is a
>good time to replace wheel bearing?

Yo Randy:

You probably won't find any gouges or scratches unless the bearings have
been contaminated w/ foreign matter (i.e., dirt) from a bad seal or they
have physically disintegrated and broken pieces are causing further damage.
These are pretty unlikely scenarios that would rapidly escalate to a
catastrophic failure, so unless there's a real bad sign like grinding
coming from the bearings when you rotate the wheels, I wouldn't worry about
those.

More likely signs of wheel bearing failures would be discoloration (bluish
or greyish spots or patches) from excess heat or galling (pitting or rough
surfaces on either rollers or races). In order of likelihood, both of
these are signs of 1) maintenance neglect, 2) overloading the bearings, or
3) just plain wearing them out. Well maintained wheel bearings are not
prone to wearing out in less than 100K miles (or a lot more, typically).
Any sign of excessive heat or galling would necessitate replacing the
bearings.

As for other things to do while you have the hubs out, why not get a
rebuild kit for the locking hubs and freshen them up while you're in there?

Good luck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)


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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 11:51:10 -0600
From: Rick Hunt
Subject: FTE 80-96 - F350 4x4 Problems

Hello all,

I have a '94 F350 Crew Cab XLT 4x4 460ci ("Brutus") with 55,000 miles on it.
I special-ordered the truck with ALL the good stuff (H.D. everything). It
gets a lot of attention and comments and is faithfully maintained to the
point people "can't believe it's so old!" Although I'm really happy with
the truck, it does have a couple of problems:

1) I had a light-weight toolbox ("TrukTrunk") in the bed (this gets
important later). I don't carry heavy power tools or anything in it; just a
few "emergency essentials" for life out here in the "wild west." The bed
started cracking where the box mounts to the bed, and down into both front
stake pockets, through both the inner and outer bed panels. I removed the
toolbox and it's been stored in my garage ever since. I visited my Ford
dealer when the cracks started (late '95) and was jerked around for over 7
months. I finally heard from a "Regional Manager" that told me my claim had
been disallowed the first day I took it to the dealer because I had
"modified" the vehicle by adding an "after-market toolbox." They wanted
$1300 to repair the damage, which I won't pay. Upon inspection it is
obvious that (1) the bed metal is too thin and/or weak, and (2) NONE of the
corners are square, so the inner bed doesn't really support the outer bed.
The manufacturer of the toolbox says he's seen this on a Chevy S-10 but
would NEVER think it could happen to one of the big Fords. He won't/can't
help either, so I'm stuck. Any suggestions?

2) I'm experiencing an irritating "popping" sound in the front end of
the truck. From what I can see, the sound is made by the tie-rod "jumping"
as the slack is taken out, which of course occurs all the time. It's not
unusual to have two-three "pops" just turning into a driveway.
I took Brutus in to the top front-end shop in town, and they said there was
nothing they could do... the sound was inherent to the "full-floating
tie-rod on a live axle." The noise is not only irritating, but an
embarrassment. Anyone have a fix for this (that doesn't cost a mint)?


Thanks!

Rick
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Richard R. Hunt | E-Mail: rhunt holmans.com |
| Holman's, Inc. | Voice: (505) 343-0007 ext. 241 |
| 6201 Jefferson St., N.E. | Fax: (505) 343-3562 |
| Albuquerque, NM 87109-3431 | WWW: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.holmans.com/ |
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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 14:23:29 -0400
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - F350 4x4 Problems

Yikes! I've got a toolbox on my '97 F250 and have never seen or heard of anything
close to that.

I had the popping noise when turning as well. Mine was from the front crossmember
moving. They had to drill out a rivet in each side and replace it with a bolt. It
took care of 80% of my popping noises. I almost wonder if you don't have an extreme
case of this and it's allowing each half of the frame to move slightly. That could
cause your bed to be pushed out of square and probably over time develop stress
cracks. If that's true (or even possible), a toolbox would have helped slow the
process by trying to hold the bed square.

Food for though,
Chad

Rick Hunt wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a '94 F350 Crew Cab XLT 4x4 460ci ("Brutus") with 55,000 miles on it.
> I special-ordered the truck with ALL the good stuff (H.D. everything). It
> gets a lot of attention and comments and is faithfully maintained to the
> point people "can't believe it's so old!" Although I'm really happy with
> the truck, it does have a couple of problems:
>
> 1) I had a light-weight toolbox ("TrukTrunk") in the bed (this gets
> important later). I don't carry heavy power tools or anything in it; just a
> few "emergency essentials" for life out here in the "wild west." The bed
> started cracking where the box mounts to the bed, and down into both front
> stake pockets, through both the inner and outer bed panels. I removed the
> toolbox and it's been stored in my garage ever since. I visited my Ford
> dealer when the cracks started (late '95) and was jerked around for over 7
> months. I finally heard from a "Regional Manager" that told me my claim had
> been disallowed the first day I took it to the dealer because I had
> "modified" the vehicle by adding an "after-market toolbox." They wanted
> $1300 to repair the damage, which I won't pay. Upon inspection it is
> obvious that (1) the bed metal is too thin and/or weak, and (2) NONE of the
> corners are square, so the inner bed doesn't really support the outer bed.
> The manufacturer of the toolbox says he's seen this on a Chevy S-10 but
> would NEVER think it could happen to one of the big Fords. He won't/can't
> help either, so I'm stuck. Any suggestions?
>
> 2) I'm experiencing an irritating "popping" sound in the front end of
> the truck. From what I can see, the sound is made by the tie-rod "jumping"
> as the slack is taken out, which of course occurs all the time. It's not
> unusual to have two-three "pops" just turning into a driveway.
> I took Brutus in to the top front-end shop in town, and they said there was
> nothing they could do... the sound was inherent to the "full-floating
> tie-rod on a live axle." The noise is not only irritating, but an
> embarrassment. Anyone have a fix for this (that doesn't cost a mint)?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Rick
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> | Richard R. Hunt | E-Mail: rhunt holmans.com |
> | Holman's, Inc. | Voice: (505) 343-0007 ext. 241 |
> | 6201 Jefferson St., N.E. | Fax: (505) 343-3562 |
> | Albuquerque, NM 87109-3431 | WWW: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.holmans.com/ |....


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