80-96-list-digest Wednesday, May 13 1998 Volume 02 : Number 168



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
FTE 80-96 - 95 Ranger Brake line
FTE 80-96 - Re: A/C Problems
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
FTE 80-96 - 1997 Recalls
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
FTE 80-96 - New to Fords
Re: FTE 80-96 - 1997 Recalls
Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
FTE 80-96 - Lost Power
Re: FTE 80-96 - New to Fords
FTE 80-96 - Special spindle nut
FTE 80-96 - RE: Water in vent and exhaust leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - New to Fords

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 06:20:02 EDT
From: FordboyDZ
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings

Dave'
Your going to need a torque wrench & the specs to tighten
the axle nut on assembly My dana 50 is 50 ft# first to seat
the bearings, loosen, then retorque to 35ft#, then back off
about 45 degrees and install the locks.A44 might be different.
Get a needle for your grease gun. It works great for packing
bearings. I live in Pa. and out here the dealer told me never
to use any type of grease on the auto hub itself due to cold
weather engagement problems. They said to use ATF
instead.
Hope this helps,
Dave Zarnesky





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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 06:41:32 -0400
From: "Jeff"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 95 Ranger Brake line

Hello all

I own a 95 2wd Ranger and am in the process of getting new shocks for it.
While looking under the truck recently I noticed that the right rear brake
line has been rubbing on the rear shock for probably the life of the truck
and has caused quite a flat spot in the line. Has anyone else had this
problem? While on the subject, are there any suggestions as to a good
replacement brake line for this truck. Thanks in advance.

Jeff and Amanda
lvmylabs erols.com
98 Passat GLS
95 Ranger XLT

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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 12:06:30 -0700
From: Charles Neff
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: A/C Problems

No doubt that the system is low on freon causing low suction side
pressure which is why the low pressure switch is opening. The switch
opens on low pressure preventing the compressor clutch from engaging
and spares the compressor internals which rely on a proper charge of
freon to carry oil to moving parts. This switch "IS NOT" a regulator,
it is a safety device intended to prevent compressor damage.

Bypassing this switch could lead to bigger problems. Have someone
charge the system to Specs... a qualified a/c mechanic will know at what
pressure the switch will open and he will see if it is correct when he
connects gauges to charge the system. If by chance the switch is
defective,
it can be replaced without opening the system to atmospheric pressure.

> -----------
> Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 07:35:25 -0700 (PDT)
> From: J Mac
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - a/c problems

> Your system might not be low on freon. You have a low pressure
> regulator swith under the hood with a 2 wire connector hookes to it.
> Unplug the plug and jum accross the connection, if you're compressor
> stays running, it could be just a switch. About $28.00

> Johnny
> Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 16:27 -0500 (EST)
> From: Michael_Skerrett ccmail.orl.lmco.com
> Subject: FTE 80-96 - A/C problems

> Well, it must be summertime again, the A/C on my '92 F-150 5.0L XLT is
> not working up to peak again. Last summer I had the compressor,
> dryer, expansion valve and associated hoses replaced, and the system
> recharged. Seemed to work well through December until it cooled down
> a little. The truck stayed parked for 8 weeks in March & April while
> recovering from back surgery, now I can not get the air cold in the
> cab. Last summer frost would form on the hoses near where the lines
> entered the cab going to the evaporator, now those lines are barely
> cool. Also the lines out of the compressor and into the condenser (in
> front of the radiator) are very hot to the touch. When I first start
> the truck and turn on the A/C the compressor short-cycles going on for
> about 10 seconds and then off for about 10 seconds. It keeps this
> cycling for about 5 minutes, and then the compressor seems to run
> continuously.
>
> Did I lose my freon charge while the truck was idle? Do these
> symptoms mean anything to those A/C experts on the list? I don't mind
> taking the truck to the shop to be repaired, I just don't want to be
> stuck with a bill for a lot of work that may not need to be done. If
> I could focus the work my wallet will feel better.
>
> Hope someone can assist, thanks.
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 14:00:26 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings

I like the ATF idea. and since no one can seem to agree on the torque for
the bearing, I was going to just torque them down real tight with a 3/8"
wrench, back off the nut, and tighten them down again until the rotor will
not spin easily, then loosen the nut until the rotor spins correctly, and
set the pin.


- -----Original Message-----
From: FordboyDZ
To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 6:23 AM
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings


>Dave'
>Your going to need a torque wrench & the specs to tighten
>the axle nut on assembly My dana 50 is 50 ft# first to seat
>the bearings, loosen, then retorque to 35ft#, then back off
>about 45 degrees and install the locks.A44 might be different.
>Get a needle for your grease gun. It works great for packing
>bearings. I live in Pa. and out here the dealer told me never
>to use any type of grease on the auto hub itself due to cold
>weather engagement problems. They said to use ATF
>instead.
>Hope this helps,
>Dave Zarnesky
>
>
>
>
>
>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
>Send posts to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
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>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 11:26:56 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings

>From Chilton's:
If equipped with a Dana 44 IFS or 44 IFS HD front driving axle, adjust as
follows:
1. Using tool T59T-1197-B and a torque wrench, tighten the bearing
adjusting nut to 59 ft. lbs., while rotating the wheel back and forth to
seat the bearings.

2. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 60 degrees.

3. Retighten the adjusting nut to 15 ft. lbs. Remove the tool and torque
wrench.

4. Inspect end-play of the wheel on the spindle. It should be 0.00-0.006
in. If excess end-play is present, re-torque the bearings.

Next step covers Dana 50 IFS and Dana 60.

I know how some people feel about CHilton's...

My .02

Bob

At 02:00 PM 5/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I like the ATF idea. and since no one can seem to agree on the torque for
>the bearing, I was going to just torque them down real tight with a 3/8"
>wrench, back off the nut, and tighten them down again until the rotor will
>not spin easily, then loosen the nut until the rotor spins correctly, and
>set the pin.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: FordboyDZ
>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 6:23 AM
>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
>
>
>>Dave'
>>Your going to need a torque wrench & the specs to tighten
>>the axle nut on assembly My dana 50 is 50 ft# first to seat
>>the bearings, loosen, then retorque to 35ft#, then back off
>>about 45 degrees and install the locks.A44 might be different.
>>Get a needle for your grease gun. It works great for packing
>>bearings. I live in Pa. and out here the dealer told me never
>>to use any type of grease on the auto hub itself due to cold
>>weather engagement problems. They said to use ATF
>>instead.
>>Hope this helps,
>>Dave Zarnesky
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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>>Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
>>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
>>=======================================================================
>
>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 16:22:00 -0400
From: disalvo tco.com (Jason)
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 1997 Recalls

Anyone know aboyt this recall on the news?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 13:25:25 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings

Typo line 1 should read 50 ft lb...sorry!!!


At 11:26 AM 5/13/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>From Chilton's:
>If equipped with a Dana 44 IFS or 44 IFS HD front driving axle, adjust as
>follows:
>1. Using tool T59T-1197-B and a torque wrench, tighten the bearing
>adjusting nut to 59 ft. lbs., while rotating the wheel back and forth to
>seat the bearings.
>
>2. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 60 degrees.
>
>3. Retighten the adjusting nut to 15 ft. lbs. Remove the tool and torque
>wrench.
>
>4. Inspect end-play of the wheel on the spindle. It should be 0.00-0.006
>in. If excess end-play is present, re-torque the bearings.
>
>Next step covers Dana 50 IFS and Dana 60.
>
>I know how some people feel about CHilton's...
>
>My .02
>
>Bob
>
>At 02:00 PM 5/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>I like the ATF idea. and since no one can seem to agree on the torque for
>>the bearing, I was going to just torque them down real tight with a 3/8"
>>wrench, back off the nut, and tighten them down again until the rotor will
>>not spin easily, then loosen the nut until the rotor spins correctly, and
>>set the pin.
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: FordboyDZ
>>To: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>>Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 6:23 AM
>>Subject: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings
>>
>>
>>>Dave'
>>>Your going to need a torque wrench & the specs to tighten
>>>the axle nut on assembly My dana 50 is 50 ft# first to seat
>>>the bearings, loosen, then retorque to 35ft#, then back off
>>>about 45 degrees and install the locks.A44 might be different.
>>>Get a needle for your grease gun. It works great for packing
>>>bearings. I live in Pa. and out here the dealer told me never
>>>to use any type of grease on the auto hub itself due to cold
>>>weather engagement problems. They said to use ATF
>>>instead.
>>>Hope this helps,
>>>Dave Zarnesky
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
>>>Send posts to: 80-96-list ford-trucks.com
>>>Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with
>>>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
>>>=======================================================================
>>
>>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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>>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
>>=======================================================================
>>
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 13:44:49 -0500
From: Elizabeth Alleruzzo
Subject: FTE 80-96 - New to Fords

Hi list,

My name is Liz. 6 months ago, I acquired a '80 F250, 83K, from =
father-in-law. Last ten years he only drove it to the grocery and back. =
Rest of the time it sat in the garage. I got myself a book and changed =
the obvious (plugs, plug wires,fuses, all filters, oil, hoses, belts, =
and brakes). Questions:
1) Tires are 8.5R 16.5 They seem awfully narrow and rides kind of =
"squirrely". If I go to 16in wheels and get 245 or 265 tires, will that =
improve the ride stability?
2) Has no airconditioner - does a Ford shop need to put one in or can an =
independent air shop do it? Would air significantly decrease my already =
low mpg (10-12mpg)?Is it worth it if I only need it in the =
So.Cal.summer?
3) Since the truck has barely been used for ten years, what (if any) =
parts might be going bad from idleness? I've noticed that most the =
rubber and felt seals in the windows and other places are dried out and =
crumbling so I'm replacing those. Other than the obvious hoses and =
belts, are there more parts of this type I should check out?
4) Just how good of an mpg should I be able to attain if everything is =
working fine? Am I already at my limit? My weekday driving is street - =
stop and go. Weekends are for the desert and mountains - dirt roads, =
camping, long distance highway.
5) If only some of the bulbs on the dash are out, should I replace all =
of them at the same time?
6) Why does the plastic washer-fluid/radiator-overflow container cost =
$71.00 from Ford? Geez -- it's just a small,cheap plastic box!
7) Are there any companies that have lots of accessories for my truck? =
All the books and magazines I have seen so far specialize in either =
vintage or new models.=20

Please excuse the novice questions. It's just that I have had such =
disgusting experiences with dealer shops on other cars and trucks in my =
life that I've decided to learn about it myself and do as much as I can. =
As a former Toyota fan, I must say that I love this Ford! It's a =
monster with a lot of power and I think I'm hooked!

If my questions are too novice for this list, I'd appreciate any advice =
off-list. Thanking you all in advance for your advice.

Liz
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 14:53:31 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 1997 Recalls

It covers F-150, 250, Expedition and Navigator. 1997 thru 4/98
manufacture...faulty treatment of lug nuts...wheels falling off at highway
speeds.

Not good news...get the word out and get it fixed.


Bob


At 04:22 PM 5/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Anyone know aboyt this recall on the news?
>
>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 18:02:31 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Wheel Bearings

Along these lines, I now have a question:
I'll be tearing into my '87 F-250HD Dana 50 this weekend to replace
the rotors if they need it. What do I need to complete the job. I
mean things like 'O'-rings or other seals in there. The spindle
socket is under 20 bucks at Auto Zone so I'm getting that. I already
have a torque wrench and impact gun (lug nuts). When is a good time
to replace wheel bearing? If no dark spots, cuts, gouges, obvious
other problems then they are ok is the way I've always done it.
Repack and replace. Last time I bought one of those aerosol cans
w/the plastic bearing retainer cups/holders and that worked great, no
hand packing. I have the Chilton's already, but I've been into the
spindles on other 4x4's before so it's not a big deal, but just wanted
to know any other tricks, tips, problems or pieces I might need to get
it done.
Later,
Randy

FordboyDZ wrote:
>
> Dave'
> Your going to need a torque wrench & the specs to tighten
> the axle nut on assembly My dana 50 is 50 ft# first to seat
> the bearings, loosen, then retorque to 35ft#, then back off
> about 45 degrees and install the locks.A44 might be different.
> Get a needle for your grease gun. It works great for packing
> bearings. I live in Pa. and out here the dealer told me never
> to use any type of grease on the auto hub itself due to cold
> weather engagement problems. They said to use ATF
> instead.
> Hope this helps,
> Dave Zarnesky
>
> = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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> "unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
> =======================================================================
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 18:03:50 -0400
From: John Meade
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Lost Power

The problem is that my 86 F150 302EFI seems to have lost its get up and
go.

Hauled the fish'n boat to Lake Kissimmee this past weekend and it was
like

pulling a rail car uphill. It runs great with no exhaust smoke of any
color. There

are no unusual engine noises other than an infrequent and slightly
audible lifter

clatter. The original power was adequate for my needs. What can I do
to regain

all or most of the original power? I not interested in a major overhaul
unless

necessary. Thanks to all.

John
A poor 'ole dumb Florida Cracker

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 18:16:54 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New to Fords

Liz, welcome to the wonderful world of the Ford F-series!
And no question is too novice, that's kind of the point here.
I'll try to help w/the questions that I can, so here it goes:

Elizabeth Alleruzzo wrote:
>
> Hi list,
>
> My name is Liz. 6 months ago, I acquired a '80 F250, 83K, from father-in-law. Last ten years he only drove it to the grocery and back. Rest of the time it sat in the garage. I got myself a book and changed the obvious (plugs, plug wires,fuses, all filters, oil, hoses, belts, and brakes). Questions:
> 1) Tires are 8.5R 16.5 They seem awfully narrow and rides kind of "squirrely". If I go to 16in wheels and get 245 or 265 tires, will that improve the ride stability?

A: If you do go the the 16's I'd be interested in you 16.5's if they
are mags.

> 3) Since the truck has barely been used for ten years, what (if any) parts might be going bad from idleness? I've noticed that most the rubber and felt seals in the windows and other places are dried out and crumbling so I'm replacing those. Other than the obvious hoses and belts, are there more parts of this type I should check out?

A: Have the brake fluid replaced (all of it) since it can collect
water (it's alcohol based). And if it's not quite running smoothly
run some carb cleaner thru the tanks to help get rid of any possible
"varnished" fuel deposits from sitting

> 4) Just how good of an mpg should I be able to attain if everything is working fine? Am I already at my limit? My weekday driving is street - stop and go. Weekends are for the desert and mountains - dirt roads, camping, long distance highway.

A: I get 12 average mph w/my 351W F-250 and d

> 5) If only some of the bulbs on the dash are out, should I replace all of them at the same time?

A: Electrical components are funny that way, even the new ones may
not last if you get a bogus one. I'd do just the burned out ones for
now.

> 6) Why does the plastic washer-fluid/radiator-overflow container cost $71.00 from Ford? Geez -- it's just a small,cheap plastic box!

A: Why does a new truck cost over 20,000 bucks? I'd try the boneyard
for a puke can.

> 7) Are there any companies that have lots of accessories for my truck? All the books and magazines I have seen so far specialize in either vintage or new models.

A: Yes, alot. Engine\susp\performance: Jegs.com; Summit.com
4wheelparts.com Dress-up: accplus.com; gorhino.com; deezee.com;
capcityusa.com; performanceproducts.com
>

> If my questions are too novice for this list, I'd appreciate any advice off-list.

A: No such thing

Later,
Randy
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 14:28:04 -0800
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Special spindle nut

I am planning on putting premium hubs on this summer. Instead of a "special
tool" could I use a punch and back it off? Or would it be worth $20.00
(everything is spendier here...) to buy the nut? Seems to me on my old
Dodge 2wd, I just used a punch and tapped the nut off until it was loose
enough to back out by hand.

Thanks
Casey

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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 18:08:44 -0500
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: FTE 80-96 - RE: Water in vent and exhaust leak

Larry-
If original from factory and no exhaust manifold gasket, then the
manifold may have warped just a little (as your straight-6 or straight-8
engines are inclined to do) and created a slight leak under load. If not
too warped, just pull manifolds and replace gasket. Aftermarket gaskets
are combined intake and exhaust gaskets in one. Work real well. This
engine is awfully young for this problem, though.

What you are hearing may just be normal WOT sound for this engine. On my
'80 F-150 with the 300 cid I-6, I do not hear it, but yours is such a
later model with fuel injection and all... Probably runs better. I,
personally, would not worry about it until I could see the carbon tracks
and knew exactly where the leak was. ("What, me worry?")

Jim Cannon
Houston, Texas

Listen to "Car Talk" on National Public Radio
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.cartalk.com/
"Celebrating 10 Years of Bad Car Advice"
- ---
You wrote:

"I recently purchased a 95 F-150 and have a few questions.



The truck has an I6 that appears to have a small exhaust leak. I gives
that exhaust leak sound under the hood when under heavy throttle. I've
heard earlier 300 6s had problems with exhaust manifold bolts working
loose but it appears they are tight on my motor. Anyone have experience
with exhaust leaks on these 6s or is the sound normal?"
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 18:21:00 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - New to Fords

Liz,

Congrats on your new aquisition.

> 3) Since the truck has barely been used for ten years, what (if any) parts might be going bad from idleness?

I would count on having a string of things going out, so I would stay close to home until I had more confidence in it. Water pump seal may give out. Brake system should be completely gone through--rebuild or replace master cylinder and all wheel cylinders. Flush all old fluid from the system.

You didn't say anything about the transmission. If it's an automatic, you might want to service it. If manual, change the oil. Keep an eye on levels everywhere and check for leaks regularly.

A friend got a "free" car from her grandmother a couple of years ago. It was 18 years old and "only" had 35K miles on it. The hitch: it was in Missouri. She flew up and drove it back--but never made it. With a new transmission (auto) and complete brake system rebuild after a scary brake failure incident, she had more in it than it
was worth. It was a Chevy though--so you probably wont have it that bad!

Please go through the brake system. Even if it stops great and has no leaks, if it hasn't been done in 18 years, it needs it. It's a time bomb and can fail completely in a fraction of a second. Most other systems you notice some degradation before complete failure, but brakes are not like that--they go at the worst time, when you try
to use them! If you do nothing else, do this. It's not worth dying over.

> 4) Just how good of an mpg should I be able to attain if everything is working fine?

My 95 F-150 gets between 16 and 17 MPG in mixed driving. More like 15 in pure city driving. I have the 5.0L (302 CID) V8. You didn't mention what you have, but it's probably a bigger engine and not fuel injected. The older engines are less efficient that the newer ones, so 10 to 12 MPG in city driving doesn't sound too far out of....


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