FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...

80-96-list-digest Wednesday, May 13 1998 Volume 02 : Number 167

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980-1996 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...
FTE 80-96 - a/c problems
FTE 80-96 - re. oil leak
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...
Re: FTE 80-96 - Personal License Plate?
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...
Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...
FTE 80-96 - Water in vent and exhaust leak
[none]
RE: FTE 80-96 - Water in vent and exhaust leak
FTE 80-96 - Re: Dodge List
FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge show info - last one before I go

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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 09:57:03 -0400
From: "David Butts"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...

I am going to change my front bearings on the 95 Bronco.

I was wondering what parts I should replace while I'm in there?

What should I get from the ol' parts house?

I have auto hubs, and new brake pads.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 07:35:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Mac
Subject: FTE 80-96 - a/c problems

Your system might not be low on freon. You have a low pressure
regulator swith under the hood with a 2 wire connector hookes to it.
Unplug the plug and jum accross the connection, if you're compressor
stays running, it could be just a switch. About $28.00

Johnny

_________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 07:34:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Mac
Subject: FTE 80-96 - re. oil leak

Thanks, leo, i'll try re-sealing the bolts.

Thanks again

Johnny
_________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 11:32:24 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...

I guess if you're going to do this, you'd need:
1. Inner and outer wheel bearings
2. Inner and outer grease seals
3. High temp disc-brake grease (as a minimum) You should probably use
grease that is application specific (e.g. roadin' wheelin' muddin' rockin'
or haulin')

4. the auto locking hub is usually held down w/ lock clips installed on the
wheel studs. You may break a few of these in the removal process.

5. You'll need one of Ford's special wrenches or an adjustable wrench with
a greater than 3 in span to remove the outer retaining nut.

6. If the gears inside the hub are well lubed. You should either leave it
alone or re-pack the hub along with the new wheel bearings.

I just did all of this on an 87 Bronco II with the auto-hubs, (the missus'
rig) and it took all day. (Also replaced rotors and pads).

Bob

At 09:57 AM 5/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I am going to change my front bearings on the 95 Bronco.
>
>I was wondering what parts I should replace while I'm in there?
>
>What should I get from the ol' parts house?
>
>I have auto hubs, and new brake pads.
>
>= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
>Send posts to: 80-96-list

ford-trucks.com
>Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo

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>"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
>=======================================================================
>
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 13:22:20 -0600
From: Ryan Dorman
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - Personal License Plate?

Try shrtbox It will work better, shtbox belongs on a chevy...

My 85 Bronco has radio amatuer plates on it right now (KC7YPJ) but will
soon have WLDHRSE on the plates.

Mason D wrote:

> I'm thinking about getting mine shtbox, or fylth77 (one of those
> disfunctional teen things)
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
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- --
KC7YPJ, Ryan Dorman
QTH: Victor ID, grid# DN431c
ICQ #3834602
kc7ypj

pdt.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/5496

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 13:24:26 -0600
From: Ryan Dorman
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...

A set of manual locking hubs,(either Ramsey or Warn all steel)

David Butts wrote:

> I am going to change my front bearings on the 95 Bronco.
>
> I was wondering what parts I should replace while I'm in there?
>
> What should I get from the ol' parts house?
>
> I have auto hubs, and new brake pads.
>
> = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
> Send posts to: 80-96-list

ford-trucks.com
> Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 13:28:46 -0600
From: Ryan Dorman
Subject: Re: FTE 80-96 - 95 Bronco front bearings...

As far as the spindle nut goes, It is a standard issue dana 44 spindle nut, buy
the special socket from the parts store (should be under $10) and keep it
around, (a requirement if you plan on doing all of your own repairs on the
front end) and no a big crescent wrench won't work..

Robert Kennedy wrote:

> I guess if you're going to do this, you'd need:
> 1. Inner and outer wheel bearings
> 2. Inner and outer grease seals
> 3. High temp disc-brake grease (as a minimum) You should probably use
> grease that is application specific (e.g. roadin' wheelin' muddin' rockin'
> or haulin')
>
> 4. the auto locking hub is usually held down w/ lock clips installed on the
> wheel studs. You may break a few of these in the removal process.
>
> 5. You'll need one of Ford's special wrenches or an adjustable wrench with
> a greater than 3 in span to remove the outer retaining nut.
>
> 6. If the gears inside the hub are well lubed. You should either leave it
> alone or re-pack the hub along with the new wheel bearings.
>
> I just did all of this on an 87 Bronco II with the auto-hubs, (the missus'
> rig) and it took all day. (Also replaced rotors and pads).
>
> Bob
>
> At 09:57 AM 5/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >I am going to change my front bearings on the 95 Bronco.
> >
> >I was wondering what parts I should replace while I'm in there?
> >
> >What should I get from the ol' parts house?
> >
> >I have auto hubs, and new brake pads.
> >
> >= Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
> >Send posts to: 80-96-list

ford-trucks.com
> >Send unsubscribe requests to: majordomo

ford-trucks.com with
> >"unsubscribe 80-96-list" in the message body.
> >=======================================================================
> >
> = Ford Truck Enthusiasts ==============================================
> Send posts to: 80-96-list

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 16:40:51 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Water in vent and exhaust leak

I recently purchased a 95 F-150 and have a few questions.

The air inlet in front of the windshield on the passenger's side is
collecting water and draining very slowly. It will drip for an hour
after a light rain. I know this isn't normal since my 95 F-250 does not
do this. Can anyone tell me where I find the drain for this area and
how do I access it? I suspect its plugged.

The truck has an I6 that appears to have a small exhaust leak. I gives
that exhaust leak sound under the hood when under heavy throttle. I've
heard earlier 300 6s had problems with exhaust manifold bolts working
loose but it appears they are tight on my motor. Anyone have experience
with exhaust leaks on these 6s or is the sound normal?

Larry

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 18:50:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew
Subject: [none]

Blaine

I decide to send this because it is mostly a list of what not to
skip. Have read some other posts and they are wrong. I been there, done
that, and skipped some of the below steps and had to do it over again. That
Is really no fun, doing it twice.
(See previous my post 80-96-list-digest Monday, May 11
1998 Volume 02 : Number 165)

You have rust, do not skip the acid treatments for rust. Once you
use the acid for rust , self etching primer is not recommended. As said in
my previous post, you need two kinds of acid one for the rust and the
second one to both neutralize the first and make the metal grab the paint.
(Acid creates a negatively charged surface and the paint when sprayed is
positively charged) There are some single use acids that may be ok. But
make sure you wash using prep-solvent between/before coats of primer/paint
and sanding's. Use water "last", for anything other washing off the acid or
sanding and you get into making rust again. Wipe with the solvent as a
last step, if you are going to leave it for more than a few minutes.
Very important is using the prep-solvent before you start. It
eliminates any possibility of surface contamination. Ever used any products
with silicone? Gone through/near a car wash? That stuff nearly repels
paint, even the tiniest amount can cause paint to fail *months* later. And
it sticks until the correct solvent is used to remove it.
For your purposes look in woodworking stores for a low-moderately
priced random orbital sander. If you have a compressor the pro have been
using RO's for years. But it is not necessary to have air powered RO's. Do
you have a grinder or can you borrow one. Small or large, there is an
adapter to make them into RO's.
A good job can be done with cans, I have been surprised several
times by people who have used cans and done a good job. Hand wet sanding
can do miracles in smoothing out machine marks. Just coat/clean it with the
solvent before you take the next step. (It assists water used to wash-up
and sand, in evaporation.)
There is a lot to learn I hope to help you avoid the mistakes I and
many others have made. It is a process and all the steps must be followed
if you want it to last and be a good job.

Andrew

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 19:04:52 -0400
From: "Christian J Hedemark II"
Subject: RE: FTE 80-96 - Water in vent and exhaust leak

> The truck has an I6 that appears to have a small exhaust
> leak. I gives
> that exhaust leak sound under the hood when under heavy
> throttle. I've
> heard earlier 300 6s had problems with exhaust manifold bolts working
> loose but it appears they are tight on my motor. Anyone have
> experience
> with exhaust leaks on these 6s or is the sound normal?

Several F-trucks I've had from a 1982 model on up had a problem with the
exhaust rusting through between the rear cat and the inlet on the muffler.
Usually closer to the cat. Did you check here? My 1987 F250 is running
around right now with this very problem and I'm not going to fix it until I
can scrape together enough extra $$$ for a nice Gibson cat back system.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 22:22:04 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - Re: Dodge List

Forwarded for "Musolino, John"

You asked:

>No, I'm not switching to a Dodge truck. But I have to keep up
>maintenance on my wife's minivan also. Anyone know of a list like this
>for Dodge? (I know FTE is the ruling list, but something close.)

Yes, there are a couple of lists (that I'm also on) that can give you
assistance. There is the Mopar Mailing List (MML), a general list for
C/P/D enthusiasts. The discussion leans heavily toward Mopar Muscle, but
all types/years are represented. I got some good info on trying to get
my '84 Daytona running again after 7 years (this summer's project).
There is also the EEK list (Extended Everyday K-Car I think), which
specializes in K-cars and their derivatives, including the mini-vans.
Another useful source of information.

You can subscribe as follows:

MML:
send an e-mail to:

majordomo

mopar.tamu.edu

with "subscribe mopar" as the body of the message (no quotes)

EEK:
send an e-mail to:

eek-request

majordomo.net

with "subscribe" as the only word in the message(no quotes)

Hope this helps & hope to see you around the MML & EEK

Moose

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 23:18:24 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 80-96 - ADMIN: Pigeon Forge show info - last one before I go

Wednesday I leave for the Pigeon Forge F100 Supernationals.

Regardless of whether we get the promised booth we have the following
two events scheduled:

Saturday, 10am until ??? - Get together followed by lunch
- --------------------------------------------------------
In front of the Convention Center, under the canopy. You can't miss
it, the show is next to it and there's a bazillion trucks on front lawn
in front of it. The meeting will be informal and I plan to be there from
9:50 until we decide to head out. Bring a lunch and drinks, we'll find a
place where we can go as a group to eat. Per Garry Bowling's suggestion,
I'm going to briefly address the group (I hate speaking in public!).

Sunday, 8 am until ??? - Sunday breakfast
- ----------------------------------------
Breakfast really won't get underway until 8:30 but there will be people
there at 8am. Bring donuts, bagels, McDonalds or whatever, enough for
you and may a couple extra to put on the table for the group. This
will be at a pavillion at Patriots Park. We'll have directions at the
Saturday get together and at our booth. Sorry that this is so early
but many people are heading out early to get home at a reasonable hour.

To get a nametag/badge to wear to identify yourself, go to:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/badge.gif

and simply print it out.

When you register for the show, please list Ford Truck Enthusiasts
as the group/club you're with. We want Pat Ford, the promoter,
to know that we support his event so we can make our booth a
yearly thing.

If you have any questions concerning the show, email me privately at
kpayne

mindspring.com before 3:00pm Wednesday.

Lastly, any email sent to my webmaster

ford-trucks.com will receive
an autoresponder message. I'll be unavailble until the show is over
on the 16th.

Later,
Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
....

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