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Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 01:21:33 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #93
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61-79-list Digest Thu, 22 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 093

In This Issue:
Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Prelube
Which Trans in 66?
Re: trans clearance
Re: 460 and C6
Re: Which Trans in 66?
Primer pump
Rotors
bbls on 351M/400
Re: Which Trans in 66?
Re: Which Trans in 66?
Re: Which Trans in 66?
Re: Which Trans in 66?
Re: 351M vs 400 2bbl?
Re: Voltage jump
400 rebuild, was; Re: Re: 351M vs 400 2bbl?
small block c6 question.
Re: trans clearance
Was - trans clearance
Re: Was - trans clearance
Re: Which Trans in 66?
Re: trans clearance
Re: 400 rebuild, was; Re: Re: 351M vs 400 2bbl?
Sad day, kinda.....
Re: trans clearance
Re: Sad day, kinda.....
`64 NOS Grille on ebay.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hamid Al-Ghamdi" <sohaim43 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 04:59:28 -0000


Dear FTE 61-79 mebers:
I need your help on installing oil pan or oil pickup tube off 240 engine
into 300. I appreciate your assist. Thank you.
Hamid
66 Ford F100


>From: "Alex Jansen" <alexjansen wi.rr.com>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
>Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:15:13 -0800
>
>----------------------------------------------------------
>LOOK: 1973 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM Now in Stock!
>1961 - 1972 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM in Stock!
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
> >Be aware too that running a DC motor on low voltage for prolonged periods
>will damage it since the amperage must go up to keep the "Wattage" the
>same.
>It seems unlikely that a bad ground would damage the starter that quickly
>though so it's more likely that you are buying rebuilt starters and we know
>that this is iffy. <
>
>The reason I replaced the starters and the solenoid and the batteries
>several times is because i thought they were the problem but even after
>replacing them all severla times i realize non of them were the problem.  I
>could have left all the original stuff in because it wasn't defective
>although i thought it was.  It wasn't because the were all getting burnt
>out.  I was just hoping i was getting faulty parts which i wasn't
>
>Alex
>
>
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>

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------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 00:02:02 -0500


It could be the Neutral Safety Switch. When it does this again , wiggle the
gear selector around while you are trying to start it. or put it in Neutral
& try and start it. Or if it is a stick shift,check to see if the switch on
the clutch pedal is going bad. usually have to have the clutch depressed in
order for a stick shift to start.
-----Original Message-----
From: Aeroape82 aol.com <Aeroape82 aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 10:33 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree


>----------------------------------------------------------
>LOOK: 1973 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM Now in Stock!
>1961 - 1972 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM in Stock!
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>In a message dated 3/21/01 11:36:21 AM Central Standard Time,
>alexjansen wi.rr.com writes:
>
>
>> I turn the key and it just sits there, no click and no turning over.  I
have
>> replaced the starter (twice in the last month), the solenoid, the battery
>> (twice), and still have no luck, this is not always happening but usually
>> does.  Even when it won't start the lights seem to be plenty bright so i
>> know the battery is not dead but usually if i try to jump it it will
start.
>>  I'm really lost,  if the lights are full brightness, why would jumping
it
>> help?
>>
>>
>
>Sounds to me like a ground problem on the soloniod.  Make sure you have
bare
>metal under it to get a good ground.  Quick check is to run a jumper wire
>from mounting point of soloniod to Neg. side of batt. this should tell you
>quick if it's ground or not.
>
>
>Glenn   NY
>
>78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches)
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Prelube
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 00:39:55 -0500


>
> From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
> Subject: Prelube
> Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:50:52 -0600
>
> Rich writes:  >>Get an old ford dizzy, remove the shaft, chuck it in a
drill motor, engage
> the oil pump thru the dizzy hole in the intake, and keep pulling the
trigger
> until you feel drag on the drill motor. The engine is primed<<
>
> I always turn the engine over with the starter and the sparkplugs
> removed and one of the rocker covers off until oil is flowing freely
> in the rocker arm area on newly installed/built engines.  I do all
> the other things mentioned also, but I do believe this helps.  There
> is no real pressure on anything except the cam lobes if the
> spark plugs are removed..

Azzie
I know I didnt go into detail about how to build a pre-luber out of a dizzy
for a Ford, Chevy, Chrysler etc, but, the concept is the same. Push out the
roll pin with a drift punch, remove the helical gear or heli cut gear
(Gary), pull the shaft, chuck it in a drill motor.  This info was meant for
the list in general. As far as how you started your engines, who's to say
that is wrong?  I've done the same dang thing many times.  My thinking, no
load on the engine except for the valve train, I lubed the valve train with
cam lube, what the hey?  I did that in my experimental years.  Although I
never experienced anything negative doing this, I sucumed to what I THINK is
best.  read pre lube, etc etc etc

Rich


------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: Which Trans in 66?
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 02:20:14 -0500


Joe, the FMX is a decent tranny, but probably not up to a lot of aggressive
driving. Also there's not much aftermarket support for it. The C-4 would be
ok IF you beef it up first. Not real expensive, but if your going to that
expense you might as well find a C-6 and start there. A stock one will be
good, and a modified one will be bullet-proof. I don't think you'll have any
tunnel interference problems either. I have a 64 and there seems to be
plenty of room. If you have a Windsor, make sure you get a small block case
for your C-6 (if you go that route). If you actually have a 351m then you'll
need a  351/400m ~ 429/460  case. If you DO have an "M", you can't use a C-4
anyhow. They weren't available behind them.
  Pass on the AOD unless you want to spend BIG dollars on a tough one. In
stock form that thing is a real piece of work. Lentech, Art Carr and some
others have cured it's weaknesses, but the "cure" comes at a price. ($2000+
at least)  Good luck, Phil
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

I need some auto trans help.
My truck is a 66 F-100 and its got a 351w and FMX right now.
1. All the FMX shifting linkage is gone. I would like to have it shifted by
the column if possible.
2. Any benefits to convince me to keep the FMX? I'm looking at either a C-4
or
C-6.
3. I have a AOD from a 86 Grand Marquis that seems to be in good shape,
Thanks, Joe


------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 02:57:01 EST
Subject: Re: trans clearance


In a message dated 03/21/2001 10:08:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
fordiac hotmail.com writes:

<< . All the FMX shifting linkage is gone.
  I would like to have it shifted by the column if possible. I dont know how
to hook it up and have it work. I have an auto column. >>

There is supposed to be a cable bracket bolted to the lower left side of the
bell housing. This cable is ran from the column out through the firewall then
down under the cab to this bracket. The end of the cable has a three or four
inch slotted bracket on its end that bolts to the linkage of the tranny. As
for linkage that is supposed to be on the tranny, it shouldn't be too hard to
find a replacement from the salvage.

The down shift tube is attached directly from the carb linkage to a separate
tranny linkage from the column shifter linkage. I am not sure of the best
description for this. Maybe someone else can take a whack at it.

Rollie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 03:08:52 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 460 and C6


At 12:55 AM 3/22/01 -0500, you wrote:
>George, can you sent me more info about rebuilding one of these?  Like
>where you
>get parts and manuals?  TIA

I kinda think of carbs as three dimensional puzzles.  I usually just start
taking off parts till it's disassembled.  Then soak everything that's metal
in carb cleaner overnight, then blow clean with compressed air.  The
rebuild kit generally comes with a good exploded diagram with the kit.  I
reference it if I can't remember where it goes.  I got (last 4350 I rebuilt
was at least 2 years ago, although I just a 4350 on e-bay this week for
$25, I'm sure it'll need a rebuild) the rebuild kit at my local Advance
Auto, it was about 30 bucks.  I would just ask for a vehicle that I knew
had a 4350 (like a 77 Ford Van with a 460.) The important parts of the kit
are all the same, and they provide enough different gaskets to match the
ones you have.

Dissassembly is pretty easy, you take all the screws off the top, take all
the screws off the bottom, take off the choke housing, and disconnect all
the linkages that prevent you from pulling the whole thing apart.  Once
apart, there is just the accel pump and jets to remove out (there are only
jets on the primaries, as I remember, secondaries just have a fuel
dump)   Trickest part is the air valve (looks like a little piston that
goes in a bore in the main body of the carb ) that connects to the plate on
top of the secondaries, it can only be removed one way, and you can't just
lift the top plate straight off, you kinda have to angle and spin it, but
it will come off.

Biggest problem I have come across on these carbs is the aforementioned air
valve gets gummed up and the top plate on the secondaries won't move.

If you have ever rebuilt a Motorcraft 2100/2150  2bbl, the 4300/4350 is
essentially the same on the primary side, the secondaries are just an add on.

The Jeep Wagoneer 72-86 Haynes manual has an exploded diagram of the 4350
if you want to see what you are getting into, and the 73-79 Ford truck
Haynes manual has a exploded diagram of a 2100 and 2150.  I can scan one of
these pages if you would like.

One tip:  the Jeep and Ford 4350's have different throttle linkages, but if
you swap the bottom plate to match the vehicle you have, they are otherwise
interchangeable.

George Selby
70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 03:13:53 EST
Subject: Re: Which Trans in 66?


In a message dated 03/22/2001 2:21:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pdesanto Cinergy.com writes:

<< If you have a Windsor, make sure you get a small block case
for your C-6 (if you go that route). >>

Just to make a clear point to why you have to get the right C6. The C6's bell
housing is not a separate bolted on piece like other trannies. The case and
bell housing are one piece on C6s. No bell housing swapping with these.

Anyhow, I have one of the small block C6s that I may use someday. It has some
wires coming out of it. Does anyone know what they are for?

Rollie

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Primer pump
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:10:10 -0600

John W. writes:  >>In regard to building your own I'll give the condensed version of mine. One used 12V hydraulic motor/pump unit (bought from a local buy&sell paper) originally found on a lawn tractor. Other pieces needed: various simple fittings and hose, a switch and some time. <<

Thanks John..  That is the type info I needed..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Rotors
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:12:59 -0600

Gordon writes:  >>For a few years G/M had a bunch of bad rotors i cant recall for sure but i
think they were white tho anyways they would burn a hole right thru the
rotor and then you got no spark to the plugs the hole was just pin sized but
was enough to stop everything<<

Exactly what happened top my MOPARS.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: bbls on 351M/400
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:14:40 -0600

Ox writes:  >>Any difference between them?<<

No!!

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Which Trans in 66?
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:20:28 -0800


I'm also archiving a small block version just in case....:-)  There should
be a block shaped thing under the shift lever on the side of the tranny
where the wires originate from.  That is the start neutral switch.  I ran my
van for years with it jumped out because they were way to proud of them at
the Ford Dealer :-)  Just had to remember to check the shifer before
starting:-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Anyhow, I have one of the small block C6s that I may use someday.
> It has some
> wires coming out of it. Does anyone know what they are for?
>
> Rollie


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 11:23:04 EST
Subject: Re: Which Trans in 66?

In a message dated 3/22/2001 12:14:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
SevnD2 aol.com writes:


> Anyhow, I have one of the small block C6s that I may use someday. It has
> some
> ?


Sounds like neutral safety switch.  Im not sure when they did it, but Ford
moved the switch from the column to the tranny.  My 74 has it on the column,
but the c-6 I put in before I did my T-18 swap had the harness on it for the
switch.  I just wrapped it up and didnt mess with it.

Darrell & Tweety




------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:30:06 EST
Subject: Re: Which Trans in 66?


OK, Thanks. I wasn't sure if this was one of those computer controlled units
that needed some kind of ECM to operate it properly. I can't use the wires in
any way, so I will just jump them out or just tape them up.
My 76 has an auto with a column mounted selector. There is some kind of
switch in it for starting in park or neutral.

Rollie

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:35:13 EST
Subject: Re: Which Trans in 66?


In a message dated 03/22/2001 11:23:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
JUMPINFORD aol.com writes:

<< Sounds like neutral safety switch.  Im not sure when they did it, but Ford
moved the switch from the column to the tranny. >>

I wonder why Ford did this?

Rollie

------------------------------

From: Dave.Resch sybase.com
Subject: Re: 351M vs 400 2bbl?
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 10:35:49 -0700


>From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
>
>Any difference between them?

Yo Ox:

In general, no.

Last time I looked through a carb rebuild parts catalog, both engines used
the same carb calibration (part) numbers in most applications
(year/vehicle).  There may have been a few calibrations that were unique to
one engine or the other, but I didn't pay attention to that at the time.

BTW, the carb calibration covers everything that can be unique to a carb
configuration, e.g., metering orifices, pull-over tube size, primary jet
size, power valve spec, float level, choke setting, acc pump setting, etc.
So two carbs with the same calibration number are functionally identical,
regardless of the application.

The only sure way to make the determination is to correlate a specific
engine calibration number with a carb calibration number, but I don't know
of any easy source for that kind of info.

If you know a friendly parts counter person, you can look through their
carb rebuild kit catalog and see the calibration numbers and applications,
though several engine calibrations may use the same carb calibration.

Obviously, for optimum performance, you should tune the carb yourself, and
then you may well deviate from any standard calibration.

Dave R (M-block devotee)


------------------------------

From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Voltage jump
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:59:50 -0600


> For a few years G/M had a bunch of bad rotors i cant recall for sure but i
> think they were white tho anyways they would burn a hole right thru the
> rotor and then you got no spark to the plugs the hole was just pin sized
but
> was enough to stop everything
> i dont know if other mfgrs had the same thing or not but its possible tho
i
> would guess
> gordon

Now that you mention it, Gordon, gm rotors are round. This gives more area
for the spark to go the wrong direction, etc. I much prefer the rotor design
on the electronic ignition in my 79 F150.
--John LaGrone
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 15:02:14 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: 400 rebuild, was; Re: Re: 351M vs 400 2bbl?





>
> In general, no.
>
> Last time I looked through a carb rebuild parts catalog, both engines used
> the same carb calibration (part) numbers in most applications
> (year/vehicle).  There may have been a few calibrations that were unique to
> one engine or the other, but I didn't pay attention to that at the time.
>
> BTW, the carb calibration covers everything that can be unique to a carb
> configuration, e.g., metering orifices, pull-over tube size, primary jet
> size, power valve spec, float level, choke setting, acc pump setting, etc.
> So two carbs with the same calibration number are functionally identical,
> regardless of the application.
>
> The only sure way to make the determination is to correlate a specific
> engine calibration number with a carb calibration number, but I don't know
> of any easy source for that kind of info.
>
> If you know a friendly parts counter person, you can look through their
> carb rebuild kit catalog and see the calibration numbers and applications,
> though several engine calibrations may use the same carb calibration.
>
> Obviously, for optimum performance, you should tune the carb yourself, and
> then you may well deviate from any standard calibration.
>

Thanks Dave and Azie

 I plan on rebuilding my 79 M into a 400 since my new boat is about
1500 lbs more than my old one (about 6300 lbs with trailer), but I can't
afford new induction for it right yet, so I was going to just keep the
stock 2 bbl for now. Just curious if it was re-jeted or anything for the
400.

 BTW, what kind of piston to wall clearance can I get away with (I know
what max is , but what can I get away with :-)). I honestly don't care
if I get piston slap when it is cold. I plan on using my 78 original
351m block, hone it out and use used 400 pistons/rods with a reground
400 crank. If the motor lasts 5000 miles, that will be about 4 summers
of towing my boat (44 miles round trip to ramp) and I'd be fine with
that.

                                      OX


--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: "Brownell, Patrick" <patrick.brownell weyerhaeuser.com>
Subject: small block c6 question.
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:03:32 -0800


Hi all.

I'm new to the list (within the past couple weeks or so) and have a '79 F100
SWB.  I bought it as a shell, and procured an 85 302 motor and a small block
C6 tranny to put in it.

I finally got everything put together, even got the motor running, but now
the tranny acts like it isn't there, Shift gears, nothing happens at all.
Any ideas what might be wrong?  HELP!

-Pat

------------------------------

From: "Joe Swinko" <fordiac hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: trans clearance
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 15:19:34 -0500


>From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
>
>Ok, use the C-6.  There really is no "Better" choice.  All the others can
>be
>made (at some expense) to handle some torque but the C-6 comes that way out
>of the box.

ok, How much torque and horsepower can a stock c-6 take when new? good
shape? with X amount of miles?
what about a stock c-4?

If you really have the 351W or 351C (2v or 4v) you will need
>the small block case (good luck) but if it is really a 351M then the
>standard run of the mill big block truck tranny will bolt right up.
>
>Not sure about the tunnel clearances but the small block version of the C-6
>has a much smaller bell housing on it so may be a better fit in any case.

I really do have the 351W, like I said, plus the small block c-6 isnt too
rare. How many of you out there have a small block & c-6 combo?

Oh, I almost forgot, I am on the Digest mode.
Thanks

Joe
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------------------------------

From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 17:27:43 -0500
Subject: Was - trans clearance


  I've got one stashed out in the shed, just for that prospect. I'm
using a C-4 with a 351w, mostly because it's already built and I had it
at the time.  Phil
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> I really do have the 351W, like I said, plus the small block C-6
> isn't too  rare. How many of you out there have a small block & C-6
combo?
>Thanks, Joe
>
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------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Was - trans clearance
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 18:40:41 -0500


the FMX tranny is a good one also and Cheap to buy even and has a removeable
bellhousing as well
they will take allot of abuse I Know ive seen them behind 428s and not
blowup
i stuck one behind a 390 and it hasnt given me any problems yet for 2 yrs
and can be shifted manually or full automatic just like a C6 one of the
reasons they are so cheap is because they lasted so well
gordon



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 19:44:19 EST
Subject: Re: Which Trans in 66?

In a message dated 3/22/2001 9:35:59 AM Pacific Standard Time, SevnD2 aol.com
writes:


> I wonder why Ford did this?
>
> Rollie
>

Well I think it has to do with the little tab on the shifter that moves the
column mounted switch breaking off.  My F250 had this, and the fix was a
poorly installed push button.  My F-350 had it, and they moved the swithc to
a place under the dash where you could move it by hand.  I kinda like this
becuase its sorta like a kill switch, but its not like you move it then start
it, you have to turn the key all the way to start and find the sweet spot on
the switch, because its degined to only work in park or neutral.  The spring
that keeps it pushed left pushes it farther then the park position, so unless
you move it right just the right amount, it wont start.  I win bets all the
time that no one can start the truck, even AFTER I show em the switch.  Makes
for s lot of fun messin with Valet guys.  The guy I show never seems to get
it right, or they dont write Killswitch on the tag, so the guy who goes to
retrieve it cant.


Darrell & Tweety




------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: trans clearance
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 18:51:44 -0800


The main advangage to the C-6 over the C-4 is the low gear clutch.  It's
much larger and stronger so will take the hole shots a lot better.  The C-6
also has a stronger input shaft among other things.  Can't give you numbers
but there's no doubt that the C-6 is the strongest tranny Ford built for
light trucks by some margin.  It only uses one band where the C-4 uses two
and the FMX is even less reliable from what I've heard plus it is cast iron
so is heavier I would think.  The AOD has a very weak input shaft in stock
form and the 4R70's locking converter is a joke.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> ok, How much torque and horsepower can a stock c-6 take when new? good
> shape? with X amount of miles?
> what about a stock c-4?
>
> Joe


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 400 rebuild, was; Re: Re: 351M vs 400 2bbl?
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 19:29:09 -0800


Well, I once had a cushman you could stick your finger down between the
piston and cylinder wall......didn't run too well but it did run :-)  At
some point you will get some ring flutter if you get too much and too much
piston slap can actually crack the skirts of the pistons.....Ok, I have no
idea.....:-)  I used 0.005" on my 460 with forged pistons and I rarely hear
anything that might be slap but I have "thought" I noticed some on occasion
when cold, so I'd guess you can go a little more than that and still make it
work but if long life isn't your concern than maybe you could go with
oversize, plain cast rings which may wear in better.  Just guessing here but
that's what I'd do in this instance.  I think it really depends on how clean
you can get the cylinders at the point where you stop honing.  I was able to
get mine pretty clean at 0.005 over.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>   BTW, what kind of piston to wall clearance can I get away with (I know
> what max is , but what can I get away with :-)). I honestly don't care
> if I get piston slap when it is cold. I plan on using my 78 original
> 351m block, hone it out and use used 400 pistons/rods with a reground
> 400 crank. If the motor lasts 5000 miles, that will be about 4 summers
> of towing my boat (44 miles round trip to ramp) and I'd be fine with
> that.
>
>                                        OX


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 19:44:49 -0600
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Sad day, kinda.....


Well ladies and gents, I sold my restored 71 F-100 4x4 today. I am sad but
also excited about having some cash for my two other projects ('68 M-100
clone and '62 Unibody) in the works.  Let's all observe a moment of
silence.......

sniff............

And now, back to our regularly scheduled discussion of Ford Trucks!

Thanks!

Stu
Nuke GM!



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: trans clearance
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:02:12 -0500


the FMX is even less reliable from what I've heard plus it is cast iron
> so is heavier I would think.
======================================================
the FMX is cast iron center section and the rear tailshaft is cast aluminum
same as the cruisomatic is,
far as being stronger i would stick my money on Cast Iron being stronger tho
go looking for tranny,s you can find all kinds of FMXs compared to C6s WHY
because the FMXs didnt go bad anywheres near as much as the C6s did the FMX
was called a second generation Cruisomatic and even came in a O.D. drive
model i think before they went to computer controlled trannys IF you find a
C6 the prices are allot more than for a FMX model WHY because the sell more
of em than the FMX only stands to reason to ask more money for the one in
more demand to
i knew a fella that had a FMX compltely stock behind a 428 CJ torino this
fella didnt know how to take off without burning the tires on it and never
did rip that old FMX out but did go thru a few 9 inch rearends tho that
tranny lasted untill the car was rusted to the ground tho
they used the FMX tranny in allot of trucks also with big horses as well as
little ones to with very few problems Bad thing though as you said is they
are cast iron but not much heavier than the cast aluminum C6 though but just
as tough if not tougher
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Sad day, kinda.....
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 23:48:55 -0500


Yes it can be a sad day when you have to sell something that you've enjoyed
for any amount of time. They become like a member of the family. It helps a
little if you can sell them to someone who you  know that will take care of
them as well as you did.  Been there-Done that ! !
-----Original Message-----
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, March 22, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Sad day, kinda.....


>----------------------------------------------------------
>LOOK: 1973 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM Now in Stock!
>1961 - 1972 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM in Stock!
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Well ladies and gents, I sold my restored 71 F-100 4x4 today. I am sad but
>also excited about having some cash for my two other projects ('68 M-100
>clone and '62 Unibody) in the works.  Let's all observe a moment of
>silence.......
>
>sniff............
>
>And now, back to our regularly scheduled discussion of Ford Trucks!
>
>Thanks!
>
>Stu
>Nuke GM!
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Dan Herrmann" <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: `64 NOS Grille on ebay.
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 00:30:14 -0500

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