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61-79-list Digest Wed, 21 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 092

In This Issue:
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Pre luber
Re: Question on How Crew Cabs were built
Prelube
Newbie
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: hinge pin kits - was: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: hinge pin kits - was: Two more 1979 F-150 Qu
Ram Air
Re: Pre-luber
Re: hinge pin kits - was: Two more 1979 F-150 Qu estions
Re: Pre-luber
Re: CJ's with QJ's
Re: Pre-luber
Re: Pre-luber
Re: Voltage jump
SpreadBore 101
351M vs 400 2bbl?
trans clearance
Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Re: 460 and C6
Re: Prelube
Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Re: galvanized sheetmetal
Re: was Fastener Torque Now Bearings
Re: trans clearance
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 17:38:59


Are your hinge bushings worn out on the door?  Lift up on the back of the
door and see if there is some play in the hinges.  You can get the hinge
pin/bushing kits at NAPA for about $15 a door.  Just beat out old pin, use
punch and tap out old bushings.  Tap in new bushings and new pin - piece of
cake.  I did this to my '73, it was acting like yours, wouldn't close like a
Ford door...

Just a thought.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Pre luber
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:44:26 -0600

John W. writes:  >>why not spend a little more on a pre-luber. If you have the money
they make nice pre-packaged ones, or if your truck budget has to contend
with family and home then you could put one together for a reasonable cost.<<

I've read about these, but never have I seen one.  I would like more
info on fabricating one..  Anyone!!!!


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 12:53:28 EST
Subject: Re: Question on How Crew Cabs were built


I have a 1979 F-350 Crewcab.  I talked to the original owners Grandson, and
he said that a Standard Cab was sent to a Canada FORD plant.  The cut the cab
in half and added the middle section. An entire new one piece roof was then
installed.  I cannot verify this, but someone else may know.  I do know that
the rear doors have factory bondo where they were shortened.  If you have any
questions....ask away!!!  Wayne Grabley (Clifton, NJ)

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Prelube
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:50:52 -0600

Rich writes:  >>Get an old ford dizzy, remove the shaft, chuck it in a drill motor, engage
the oil pump thru the dizzy hole in the intake, and keep pulling the trigger
until you feel drag on the drill motor. The engine is primed<<

I always turn the engine over with the starter and the sparkplugs
removed and one of the rocker covers off until oil is flowing freely
in the rocker arm area on newly installed/built engines.  I do all
the other things mentioned also, but I do believe this helps.  There
is no real pressure on anything except the cam lobes if the
spark plugs are removed..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Newbie
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 12:19:20 -0600

Alex J. writes: >>This is my first post on this list although i have been
lurking for some time now.  I have a '79 F-150 with a 300 that
seems to have a mind of its own, i'm hoping you guys all have some
advice.<<

Welcome aboard.
Man have you come to the right place..  Advice we've got by the F700
loads..
I'm not really that up to date on the 300 I6, but there are a couple of
folks on this list that are 1st rate I6 Guru's and I'm sure they will
chime in...

I'm sure the one bbl carb has an accelerator pump.  Check it out by
removing air cleaner - open choke - look straight down the barrell and
work the accelerator wide open rather wuickly and hold it for a second ..
You should see a good healthy stream of raw gas squirt from the nozzel
in the upper portion of the carb.  Do this with engine not running and
ignition off.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Keith" <a2jkeith gci.net>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 10:28:06 -0900


I think the part number at napa is a 655-1183 dont quote me on it, but I
know it starts with a 655 anyway, good luck
Keith &clifford
71 F250 4x4
-----Original Message-----
From: MARTY COLMAN <colman76 hotmail.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 8:47 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions


>----------------------------------------------------------
>LOOK: 1973 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM Now in Stock!
>1961 - 1972 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM in Stock!
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Are your hinge bushings worn out on the door?  Lift up on the back of the
>door and see if there is some play in the hinges.  You can get the hinge
>pin/bushing kits at NAPA for about $15 a door.  Just beat out old pin, use
>punch and tap out old bushings.  Tap in new bushings and new pin - piece of
>cake.  I did this to my '73, it was acting like yours, wouldn't close like
a
>Ford door...
>
>Just a thought.
>
>Marty
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: hinge pin kits - was: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:33:34 -0800 (PST)


Marty wrote:
> door and see if there is some play in the hinges.  You can get the hinge
> pin/bushing kits at NAPA for about $15 a door.  Just beat out old pin, use

Thank you very much.  This is something I would never think to ask for,
just assuming that you can't get them.  I just called our local NAPA and
although they said they can't get the pins they have the bushings for
$0.49 each.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4



------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: hinge pin kits - was: Two more 1979 F-150 Qu
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:40:29 -0800


SW Washington?  Have a Schucks nearby?  They have them in their "Help!" or
Dorman (as they call it) section.

-----Original Message-----
From: draco pacifier.com [mailto:draco pacifier.com]


Marty wrote:
> door and see if there is some play in the hinges.  You can get the hinge
> pin/bushing kits at NAPA for about $15 a door.  Just beat out old pin, use


Thank you very much.  This is something I would never think to ask for,
just assuming that you can't get them.  I just called our local NAPA and
although they said they can't get the pins they have the bushings for
$0.49 each.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4


=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Ram Air
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 14:48:30 -0500

OHHHH, AHHH! Just finished getting the Ram Air box all set up on the truck. Two 5" inlets welded to the rad support feeding the twin nozzle 14" X 5" Ram Air Box with a K&N filter and filter top. How good does it work? Well in large print they warn to be careful near freezing temps because you can freeze the throttle blades open. But as I wait for a warm afternoon to play I'm out admiring that mean air box.

John
'77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Pre-luber
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 14:54:19 -0500

In regard to building your own I'll give the condensed version of mine. One used 12V hydraulic motor/pump unit (bought from a local buy&sell paper) originally found on a lawn tractor. Other pieces needed: various simple fittings and hose, a switch and some time.
I used a momentary toggle on the dash and an extra starter solenoid for the pump (overkill but it was on hand). I mounted the pump to the passenger side of the frame and the pump sucks off the oil pan (used a tee so I can have the option of gravity draining) and discharged it to the back of the block where your oil pressure sender is located. I used hydraulic hose because it's plentiful here in farm country. I get about 20psi when fully primed, takes about four minutes on a cold winter day when the truck has sat for a while, about 30 seconds in the summer.
Now that the snow has eased off  I'll crawl around and take some pictures if anybody is interested and send them (keep in mind I use the old fashioned camera and have to wait on developing).

John
'77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: hinge pin kits - was: Two more 1979 F-150 Qu estions
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:56:51 -0800 (PST)


Rich wrote:
> SW Washington?  Have a Schucks nearby?  They have them in their "Help!" or
> Dorman (as they call it) section.

Only about 2 miles away from where my butt is currently parked.  You guys
are too much.  Thanks!


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:24:52 -0700
From: "William Whited (Tony)" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Pre-luber


I'd be interested.

John Webster wrote:

> Now that the snow has eased off  I'll crawl around and take some pictures if anybody is interested and send them (keep in mind I use the old fashioned camera and have to wait on developing).
>
> John
> '77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 14:48:08 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: CJ's with QJ's


At 01:38 PM 3/21/01 -0500, you wrote:
>George... not to start an argument but Dodge did indeed use the Q-Jet on
>there 4x4 pickups in 85.....not only did I buy one brand new that way, but
>I used to work for a Dodge dealer part time and these were in fact oem! As
>a side note they were also used on many Police/fleet 318's as well through
>the mid 80's. As fpr the Q-jet on a 460 discusion...I have never seen one
>that wasn't a cj motor or a Boss clevland...not ta say they didn't meaybe
>build them.I just personally have never seen one.


No need to argue, you are correct (I looked it up at AdvanceAuto.com.) My
318 has an 84 TQ and manifold off a 360. I didn't think Mopar would, but
they apparently changed for 85 and 6, then changed to FI soon after that,
as I recall.

Ford truck content: My two Fords run, and the Dodge has a rod through the
side of the block.





George Selby
70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: "Tyler Wilkins" <twilkins wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Pre-luber
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 14:47:14 -0800



> I'd be interested.

As Would I.......


------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: Pre-luber
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 16:04:10 -0500


In regard to building your own Pre-luber
------------------------------------------------

I'd like to know as well.

Thank You

-bob-


p.s.
how do you email off the list?  I couldn't find your email address.

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage jump
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 20:20:57 -0500


I have had caps crack, and I have
> had them to saturate with dampness and both cause havoc.  I have
> had rotors to break, but I've never had one to leak to ground
=======================================================
For a few years G/M had a bunch of bad rotors i cant recall for sure but i
think they were white tho anyways they would burn a hole right thru the
rotor and then you got no spark to the plugs the hole was just pin sized but
was enough to stop everything
i dont know if other mfgrs had the same thing or not but its possible tho i
would guess
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: SpreadBore 101
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:16:44 -0500


    I mean no disrespect, but believe me, I know the difference between a
Q-jet and a Thermoquad. (or even a 4300 Autolite) I wouldn't have posted it
as an oddity had I not made sure first. The specs and carb numbers were in a
"Rochester" reference.
  If ya look hard enough, you'll see all kinds of weird stuff the Big 3,
and especially AMC did, as far a mixing different companies components under
their hoods.
 Later, Phil
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------
                               ----Snipped----
I hate to tell you this, but in 85 and 86 they used a Carter
Thermoquad on Mopar 4bbl V8's. ....... Let's all chant - Just because it's a
spreadbore carb, it's not necessarily a Rochester Quadra-Jet    George
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------
George... not to start an argument but Dodge did indeed use the Q-Jet on
there 4x4 pickups in 85.     Norm
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:25:41 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: 351M vs 400 2bbl?


Any difference between them?

             Thanks

                  OX

------------------------------

From: "Joe Swinko" <fordiac hotmail.com>
Subject: trans clearance
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:07:41 -0500



I need some auto trans help.

my truck is a 66 f-100 and its got a 351w and FMX right now.
no need to worry about driveshaft length, it doesnt have one.
This truck is my first attempt at a rod. I want it to be a clean setup.
Right now the front clip is off and engine is out. This is the time for me
to do it.


1. All the FMX shifting linkage is gone.
 I would like to have it shifted by the column if possible. I dont know how
to hook it up and have it work. I have an auto column.

2. Any benefits to convince me to keep the FMX? I plan on drag racing int he
future and I tend to drive fairly hard, probably cuz I'm just a youngster to
most of you. ;-) If the FMX cant hold up, I'm looking at either a c-4 or
c-6. Does the c-6 fit without trans tunnel banging? of course these would be
modified to hold up to the power and hard driving.

3. I have a AOD from a 86 Grand Marquis that seems to be in good shape, how
would I hook up the kickdown and linkage if I were to use this?

Thanks,

Joe

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:19:58 EST
Subject: Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree

In a message dated 3/21/01 11:36:21 AM Central Standard Time,
alexjansen wi.rr.com writes:


> I turn the key and it just sits there, no click and no turning over.  I have
> replaced the starter (twice in the last month), the solenoid, the battery
> (twice), and still have no luck, this is not always happening but usually
> does.  Even when it won't start the lights seem to be plenty bright so i
> know the battery is not dead but usually if i try to jump it it will start.
>  I'm really lost,  if the lights are full brightness, why would jumping it
> help?
>
>

Sounds to me like a ground problem on the soloniod.  Make sure you have bare
metal under it to get a good ground.  Quick check is to run a jumper wire
from mounting point of soloniod to Neg. side of batt. this should tell you
quick if it's ground or not.


Glenn   NY

78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches)



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 20:23:07 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 460 and C6


George, can you sent me more info about rebuilding one of these?  Like where you
get parts and manuals?  TIA

George Selby wrote:

At 12:46 AM 3/20/01 -0500, you wrote:

> >It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
> >paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you give the low
> >down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA
>
> If it's like the 77 460 from an E-350 sitting in my garage, then it's
> definitely a Motorcraft 4350.  If it works, I'd keep it. Small primaries
> for good mileage, HUGE secondaries to pull that load up a hill.  It really
> woke up my Jeep when I switched.  Jets are the same in the 4350 and  the
> 2100/2150 and 4300, so if you can find a few of these used in junkyards,
> you can jet them.  The secondaries do not use jets, the vacuum just pulls
> fuel from a dump in the middle of the venturies.  Different years use
> different jets, in my Jeep a 78 carb had jets 4 sizes larger than the carb
> on my 82, and they both had 360s.
>
> You all have forced me to go outside and measure.  The two front studs
> (center to center) are 5.25 inches apart on the manifold that holds a
> Motorcraft 4350.  If the number is smaller than this by about an inch, then
> it's a Q-Jet type manifold (I had a Thermoquad in the garage, I measured it
> and it's exactly 1 inch smaller, so it is 4.25 inches.)  So if it is 5.25",
> its a Holley pattern (squarebore or 4350 spreadbore.  You can tell them
> apart by the much larger diameter of the secondaries on the 4350
> manifold.  A standard Holley 1850 will not fit a 4350 manifold.  There is a
> gap around the secondaries if you try to do this.)  If it's 4.25", then
> it's a Spreadbore manifold (Q-Jet or Thermoquad.)
>
> George Selby
> 70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6
> 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
> 86 Nissan 300ZX
> 92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
> gselby4x4 earthlink.net
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Prelube
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:49:48 -0800


>From a theoretical perspective, the only thing I see that pre-running the
pump by itself prevents for sure is dry running a part that you forgot to
put oil on.  In the confusion of putting the engine together it is very easy
to miss something and pre-lubing the engine without actually moving any
parts but the pump will prevent galling.....just in case, otherwise I agree
with you.  I have never pre-lubed an engine and they all ran for a while but
how much longer might they run if you do this?  Depends on how well you get
it lubed when assembling it I guess :-)  I have been filling my oil filters
for a long time now when doing an oil change for this same reason and this
is on an engine that is fully lubed and has been run already.  What's scary
though is to find the oil filter you know you initially filled, empty when
you do the next oil change......:-(

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I always turn the engine over with the starter and the sparkplugs
> removed and one of the rocker covers off until oil is flowing freely
> in the rocker arm area on newly installed/built engines.  I do all
> the other things mentioned also, but I do believe this helps.  There
> is no real pressure on anything except the cam lobes if the
> spark plugs are removed..
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 20:50:55 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6


Okay, no tag on it what can I do now?

GaryBBB wrote:

> Here's hoping the tag is still on it.  There are two major design types that
> require two different Zip kits to rebuild it that I know of and there may be
> more but if you don't have the tag you will be guessing and parts stores
> don't like to poke around in the dark.  They are rebuildable for about $25
> and if the throttle shaft is tight in the housing (not worn out and loose)
> then it is rebuildable.  There are about 20 EPA designes over the years
> which make them look different and have different ports on them but the
> basic housings are all the same shape and size AFAIK so the gasket kits have
> about 10 different gaskets in them to cover all the internal porting
> changes.
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> > Gary, how are they to rebuild or can I by one of them after market?--

William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:06:51 -0800


Call around and ask if they have the kits in stock and take the gasket that
goes between the two castings down and compare.  I usually tell them it's a
lincoln of what ever year the carb came from and just have them look it up.
If they have more than one or two numbers then ask them how many different
ones they have in stock before you go.  This means taking it off and
dismantling it of course but there should really not be any problem mathing
it up.  Some of the floats were a tad different and the major thing I recall
is the acc pump linkage differences so take note of those before running to
the store with the gasket.  If you don't want to risk tearing the gasket
then take one of the halves to the store but chances are you will damage the
gasket getting it apart so be prepared to fix it regardless before you take
it down.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Okay, no tag on it what can I do now?
>
> GaryBBB wrote:
>
> > Here's hoping the tag is still on it.  There are two major
> design types that


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:12:15 -0800


The ground from the battery to the block may be loose or damaged.  Back in
the old days they used to have mesh ground strapss which could deteriorate
under the surface and not be obvious.  Modern cables are more likely to be
intact but at the ends you can still get bad connections.  As already noted,
the start relay needs to be well grounded too.

Be aware too that running a DC motor on low voltage for prolonged periods
will damage it since the amperage must go up to keep the "Wattage" the same.
It seems unlikely that a bad ground would damage the starter that quickly
though so it's more likely that you are buying rebuilt starters and we know
that this is iffy.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> over.  I have replaced the starter (twice in the last month), the
> solenoid, the battery (twice), and still have no luck, this is
> not always happening but usually does.  Even when it won't start
> the lights seem to be plenty bright so i know the battery is not
> dead but usually if i try to jump it it will start.  I'm really
> lost,  if the lights are full brightness, why would jumping it help?


------------------------------

From: "Hamid Al-Ghamdi" <sohaim43 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 04:16:21 -0000


Dear Marty: I need your help. I am a subscriber to FTE list I have 66 F100
and 91 Ford E150. Can you find me parts book for my 91 Ford van. I
appreciate your help.
Hamid.


>From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
>Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 17:38:59
>
>----------------------------------------------------------
>LOOK: 1973 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM Now in Stock!
>1961 - 1972 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM in Stock!
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Are your hinge bushings worn out on the door?  Lift up on the back of the
>door and see if there is some play in the hinges.  You can get the hinge
>pin/bushing kits at NAPA for about $15 a door.  Just beat out old pin, use
>punch and tap out old bushings.  Tap in new bushings and new pin - piece of
>cake.  I did this to my '73, it was acting like yours, wouldn't close like
>a
>Ford door...
>
>Just a thought.
>
>Marty
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------------------------------

From: "Alex Jansen" <alexjansen wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:15:13 -0800

>Be aware too that running a DC motor on low voltage for prolonged periods
will damage it since the amperage must go up to keep the "Wattage" the same.
It seems unlikely that a bad ground would damage the starter that quickly
though so it's more likely that you are buying rebuilt starters and we know
that this is iffy. <

The reason I replaced the starters and the solenoid and the batteries several times is because i thought they were the problem but even after replacing them all severla times i realize non of them were the problem.  I could have left all the original stuff in because it wasn't defective although i thought it was.  It wasn't because the were all getting burnt out.  I was just hoping i was getting faulty parts which i wasn't

Alex




------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: galvanized sheetmetal
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:27:36 -0800


Was the sheet metal fully welded to generate a water tight seam or just
tacked in place.  What kind of rod or wire did you use?  What kind of flux?
What you are talking about is a specialized setup where the engineers put
together the right materials and welding equipment.  For the average Joe
using the average stick or wire (especially wire) welder I would not expect
good results on galvanized steel.  I've welded a lot of it myself and if you
don't clean the weld areas it makes a mess with normal clean steel rods and
wires.  You can weld Magnesium too if you have the right equipment but I've
heard lots of stories about that one :-)

I've made a lot of stuff out of scrap water pipe and what I generally do is
run a root pass to burn off most of the zink then grind it to a nice neat
rounded groove and put a finish pass on it that comes out very nice but with
sheet metal I've had no luck at all unless I clean the edges first.

I would not be blase about the toxicity myself.  I have not seen any
paperwork on it that I can remember but have heard from professionally
trained welders that it is very toxic and my experience with it tells me
that it is not doing me any good.  Usually when your body rebells there is a
good reason  :-(  I believe that Zink is in the class of "Heavy Metals"
which the body has trouble getting rid of but I may be mis-remembering on
that one.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>          It depends. I used to make rooftop heat recovery equipment in a
> fab shop in Toledo. All the base pans were 8- 12" channel with galvanized
> sheets welded to the bottom.  Usually 14-16 ga., but galvanized none the
> less. The ones we made for the Navy actually had to be Magnafluxed.
>
> Ted Wnorowski  Flat Rock, OH


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: was Fastener Torque Now Bearings
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 23:51:12 -0500


>
> From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
> Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque
> Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:43:35 -0800
>
>
> I already knew all these things, just wanted to see how many others would
> respond:-)

Ah, just testing us eh? :)

Heat transfer was the main issue I was taught but debris just
> makes good sense too.  Debris is logical and easily reasoned on but heat
> transfer is one of those arcane things many people would not consider :-)

They are all equally important.  Oil behind the bearing affects heat
transfer and clearance, debris behind the bearing affects heat transfer and
clearance.  As long as the bearing and its seat are clean, the journal to
bearing clearance is within spec, dont even worry about heat transfer.  I
mean, if a person has done this correctly, what more can ya do?   Dont worry
about it.  I Gatta admit, I never read a heat transfer spec. :)) Oil will
allways seep behind the bearings during use anyway.  Has anyone torn apart a
engine with NO oil behind the bearing shell?  As a engine wears, of course
oil will find it's way back behind the bearing.  Did this cause your motor
to fail?  Probably not.  Did it cause your engine to throw a rod? Probably
not.  Look at all of the other bearings, they probably have a thin layer of
oil behind them as well.  My question is, why is this oil always black in
color? ))) ( kidding here)  Allmost always an engine failure is due
o...( Aint touching this one) lol.  I understand the theory behind heat
transfer from the crank, via bearings, via rods, via this and that.  Just
wanted to put a mechanic's spin on this.  :)))  I hope your smilling here
Gary. ;0)

>Oil does about 75% of the cooling in the engine

I agree that the oil cools the engine more so than the cooling system, just
not sure of the 75% comment, I will have to research that again.  Based on
this info, I will say this though, most people do not have a problem running
a quart or two low on oil, but they will let their cooling system run low
most of the time.  Not talking about anybody on the list here, but the
general public at large.  > --
>
> > Any foreign material also impedes the some of the heat transfer
> > between the
> > bearing material and the rod/block which can cause overheated bearings.
>
Gatta agree here as well :)

Rich


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: trans clearance
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:43:03 -0800


Ok, use the C-6.  There really is no "Better" choice.  All the others can be
made (at some expense) to handle some torque but the C-6 comes that way out
of the box.  If you really have the 351W or 351C (2v or 4v) you will need
the small block case (good luck) but if it is really a 351M then the
standard run of the mill big block truck tranny will bolt right up.

Not sure about the tunnel clearances but the small block version of the C-6
has a much smaller bell housing on it so may be a better fit in any case.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> my truck is a 66 f-100 and its got a 351w and FMX right now.
> no need to worry about driveshaft length, it doesnt have one.
> This truck is my first attempt at a rod. I want it to be a clean setup.
>
> Joe


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 23:52:04 -0500


also may have to adjust or replace the striker bolt that the latch  catches
on when you close the door.
-----Original Message-----
From: MARTY COLMAN <colman76 hotmail.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 12:52 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions


>----------------------------------------------------------
>LOOK: 1973 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM Now in Stock!
>1961 - 1972 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on CD-ROM in Stock!
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Are your hinge bushings worn out on the door?  Lift up on the back of the
>door and see if there is some play in the hinges.  You can get the hinge
>pin/bushing kits at NAPA for about $15 a door.  Just beat out old pin, use
>punch and tap out old bushings.  Tap in new bushings and new pin - piece of
>cake.  I did this to my '73, it was acting like yours, wouldn't close like ....


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