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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:38:02 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:38:02 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #91 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== --------------------------------------------------------------------- R White Associates Information, Data, and Communications Assurance Specializing in systems vulnerability studies at the macro and micro level. 35 years of experience in 5 nines systems for US Government. Contact white46 bellatlantic.net
Phone: 703-801-9116 PO Box 146 Fax: 703-780-3493 Mt. Vernon, VA 22121 Robert W. White Jr., Owner --- Please visit our sponsor! --------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Tue, 20 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 091 In This Issue: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque Re: galvanized sheetmetal Question on How Crew Cabs were built WAS Cleaning Parts NOW WAY OFF TOPIC Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque galvanized sheetmetal Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque Re: galvanized sheetmetal Re: CJ's with QJ's Re: 460 and C6 Re: Drop down pitman Re: galvanized sheetmetal Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque Re: CJ's with QJ's Q jet Re: 460 and C6 Re: CJ's with QJ's Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6 free '79 Re: 460 and C6 Voltage jump 460 & C6 Re: 460 and C-6 Re: galvanized sheetmetal Re: free '79 Tryin to chill! '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 20:30:25 -0500 ------------------------------ > > From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
> > Say, Rich, ever hear anything about oil under the bearings on assy, pro or > con? CON. Dont do it. This will definetly affect your bearing clearances. The proper procedure is to clean the back of the bearing and the cap or seat that it rests in, preferably with a lint free cloth. You dont even want dust behind the bearing. If a piece of contamination is left behind the bearing, usually you can see it on the bearing surface after a engine has been run for awhile. It will actually look like a dark spot or spots on the bearing where it contacts the journal. As far as oil on the backside of the bearing, next time your putting a engine together, plasti gage it dry then with oil behind the bearing. You'll see the difference. I'm not saying people havent done it and gotten away with it, but clean and dry is the proper way. I THINK I even remember reading that the heat transfer is better with a dry bearing install. As you probably allready know, factory engines are put together in "clean" rooms that make most paint booths look like sand pits. Rich ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: galvanized sheetmetal Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 18:09:09 -0800 > Hi! > I need the FTE wisdom here: do any of you know if it is a good > idea to use galvanized sheetmetal to patch floorpans? I am talking > mig welding galvanized sheetmetal to regular floorpans here. The > galvanized sheetmetal I can get is the same (?) kind as used > on heating ducts in buildings. Is it a good idea? Or instead, should > I get "regular" sheetmetal? The car I am trying to fix is a Chevette. > (flame-proof clothing at the ready....). By the way, anybody know > where I can get replacement floorpans for a Chevette? None seems to > be available here in Canada. (pushing my luck? ;) ) > FTE content: I am now looking by the window at my 1978 Supercab 4x4. > And of course, that same young tomcat is still outside "cruising" my > 2 lady cats! (little did he know that my cats are spade or nutered... > eh, which is the right word? I am french-speaking, remember? ;) ) > > Many thanks! > > Gerry > 1978 F-150 Supercab 4x4 > 1979 F-150 regular cab 4x4 > Vive le FORD! Gerry, I wouldn't recommend welding galvanized metal. The heat causes the galvanize to give off noxious fumes. Can it be welded, yes. But most people will recommend against it. I would recommend using regular sheet metal and then treating it with POR15. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "John" <69crewcab delnet.nasdsl.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 101 22:05:27 EST Subject: Question on How Crew Cabs were built People, can anyone give me the low down on How ford built the 67-72 Crew Cabs?? I've heard they were shipped to a airplane factory to be custom built??? Anybody point me in direction to find info on these monsters. I'm resurecting a 69 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4 (more like rescuing) it from the crusher. But want to know as much as possible on these awsome trucks ------------------------------ From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: WAS Cleaning Parts NOW WAY OFF TOPIC Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:23:31 -0500 > From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Never did find out why it wouldnt restart hot, so I just made it a > point not to kill it. Dad, as good a guy as he was, just never quite got the > touch of that machine. > > George M in Fl. My father tought me when I was very young not to turn off a hot diesel engine. But he never explained why. One day I was plowing a field all night, I remember seeing the school bus pass by in the morning and wished I was on it. :)) The next morning my father pulled up to the field in his brand spanking new bright red 76 F250 4X4. Man I loved that truck. Still do. Guess thats why I own it now. :))) Anyway, I saw that ice cold water jug in the bed of his truck, thats all I could think about. He pulled up beside me, I shut the tractor down and jumped off and ran to the back of the truck and drank my fill. For some reason, he re-started the tractor. No big deal, I know he's proud of his thirsty 13 year old for staying up all night plowing and keeping the furroughs straight. He walks up to me and "WHAM", slaps me upside the head and say's "NEVER, NEVER shut off a hot diesel". I really didnt understand why till years later. But I guarantee you this, I let them suckers idle for awhile ever since, lol. Gatta admit, he had away to get a very important point across so you would never forget it. Well, I never forgot anyway. Looking back, he could have just told me...;;;))))))) As a side note, my older brother pulled his tractor alongside the truck, saw what happened to me, and left his running. (He didnt know any better either) As you can probably guess, I was compared to him (older, wiser, know it all brother) AGAIN:)))) Rich ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:16:03 -0500 I'll step up on my soapbox for a moment; priming the motor is a good idea if its sat for a week, overnight or an hour. After all that is spent on a good rebuild why not spend a little more on a pre-luber. If you have the money they make nice pre-packaged ones, or if your truck budget has to contend with family and home then you could put one together for a reasonable cost. It's nice piece of mind after the truck has sat for a while to start the pump and see oil pressure before the starter engages. John '77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's > "Priming" the pump is not really just priming the pump, (and I think you > implied this already so I'm not arguing :-)) it is pushing oil to every nook > and cranny of the engine before starting which prevents potential galling of > dry parts. In my opinion it should even be done on a properly lubed and > sealed engine which has been just put together and installed before starting > to be safe. Assy lube will protect only the parts you actually are able to > or remember to put it on. By priming the pump you "Ensure" that it is lubed > even if you may have forgotten something :-) It's like a last stronghold > and also protects the pump if you forgot to grease it up. > > In my earlier days I put them together with shims (and oil) under the > bearings, Used 4 foot pipes to tighten bolts, reused old plugged screens, > old worn out pumps and never even thought about lubing the pump since it had > residual oil still in it and they held together longer than they had any > right to but we are talking spending some bucks and time and energy on > something we want to last, not bandaid stuff here so it pays to be carefull > and give yourself all the edge you can, eh? > > Say, Rich, ever hear anything about oil under the bearings on assy, pro or > con? > > -- > Happily Retired (but broke) > Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary > -- > > > I wasnt sure would prime the oil pump, I would do this. I personaly prime > > my oil pump just prior to starting. I never had a problem either > > way though. > > How do I know after writing this opinion my words will come back to haunt > > me:)) > > > > Rich > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 19:37:20 -0800 From: Eric <ekdonaldson bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: galvanized sheetmetal Gerry, Chevette repair is a liitle different. The correct materials are plywood, roofing tar and a bunch of big screws. At least that's how it's done out west. Eric ------------------------------ From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 01:00:22 -0500 > > From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
> "Priming" the pump is not really just priming the pump, (and I think you > implied this already so I'm not arguing :-)) it is pushing oil to every nook > and cranny of the engine before starting which prevents potential galling of > dry parts. In my opinion it should even be done on a properly lubed and > sealed engine which has been just put together and installed before starting > to be safe. OK, I guess my point may have been vauge, again:)) Thanks Gary, for pointing this out. After the engine is placed in the hot truck we call Fords, the bearings need oil to lubricate them before we even turn over the engine. ( I know ya'll used oil or assembly lube on your bearings right?) Get an old ford dizzy, remove the shaft, chuck it in a drill motor, engage the oil pump thru the dizzy hole in the intake, and keep pulling the trigger until you feel drag on the drill motor. The engine is primed. OR, Pack the oil pump with engine assembly lube, crank it over, if it starts within a few cranks, dont worry about it. If you forget to pack the oil pump with lube, or dont prime your oil pump, you just crank the engine over till it starts. Will it be OK? Sure. Will it blow up tommorrow? No. Has premature wear occured? You can almost bet on it. How much wear? Who knows. Bottom line: Get the closest, tightest tolorances for each given clearance for a given bearing, (By the Book) and dont worry about it. For a daily driver, this info is GREAT. Now for high rpm, high performance stuff, looser specs, etc are a given. But those issues are for another group. ) > Rich ------------------------------ From: "Carver" <carver ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: Re: galvanized sheetmetal Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:10:15 -0800 From a safety standpoint, use regular metal. Heating galvanized (zinc coated) metal releases toxic fumes. If you have to use it, wear a supplied air respirator. Jeff 64 F100 CrewCab ------------------------------------------------- do any of you know if it is a good idea to use galvanized sheet metal to patch floor pans? I am talking mig welding galvanized sheet metal to regular floor pans here. The galvanized sheet metal I can get is the same (?) kind as used on heating ducts in buildings. Is it a good idea? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 03:08:02 -0500 From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: CJ's with QJ's At 07:56 PM 3/20/01 -0500, you wrote: > I did find that in 85 and 86 they (Qjets) were even used on some Mopars. I >had never seen one of those. I hate to tell you this, but in 85 and 86 they used they a Carter Thermoquad on Mopar 4bbl V8's. Of this I can guarantee, since in addition to the Fords and Jeeps you already know I have, I also have a 85 Dodge W-100. Let's all chant - Just because it's a spreadbore carb, it's not necessarily a Rochester QuadraJet (could be a Motorcraft 4350,) and Just because it bolts onto a spreadbore manifold, it's not necessarily a Rochester QuadraJet (could be a Carter Thermoquad) George Selby 70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd 86 Nissan 300ZX 92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 03:23:20 -0500 From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 460 and C6 One thing that may cause problems for you: You can't legally increase the GVWR or GCWR of a vehicle. Even if you swap axles, brakes, and engines, you cannot increase your legal towing or load carrying capacity. For one thing the frame is lighter-duty on the smaller trucks. In most states, they have a special police force (it's DMV enforcement here in NC) just to make sure there aren't any overloaded or otherwise illegal big trucks/tractor/trailers on the road. They have portable scales, and can check you on the spot anywhere. If you are overloaded, they can make you ditch the trailer until it weighs right, or just give you a massive fine. It reads on the back of my license that I can't tow a vehicle over 10,000 lbs anyway, you have to get a CDL for any towed weight over that. It sounds to me like you need at least a real 1 ton truck. In fact that may not be enough, because the GCWR of my buddies Dodge is only 20,000 lbs, and sounds to me like you could exceed that with your 1/2 ton and the 15000 lb trailer. He had a 3/4 ton before that, and I can say that the tires and brakes were bigger on the 1 ton than the 3/4 ton, which are larger than any 1/2 tons. We almost got into legal trouble just towing a 3 car gooseneck behind it. We had 3 cars on it, and drove by the weigh station when we entered NC. We had about 12,000 lbs loaded weight on the trailer. About five miles down the road we started hearing chatter on the CB about a Dodge dually that the DMV was real pissed at. They tried to run us down, but there was too much other truck traffic that day for them to escape the weight station in time (and we were going a steady 75.) We got off the highway after that, and travelled off-interstate for the rest of our journey. George Selby 70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd 86 Nissan 300ZX 92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Drop down pitman Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:21:09 -0800 On a 2wd with the "Y" type steering linkage you don't need a drop down pitman but you will need to make some alignement adjustments to the tow and to re-center the steering wheel. Don't move the wheel on the column, move the linkage to get it lined back up. If you have a 4x4 with a track bar then you need to keep the drag link and track bar parallel, otherwise it's just a matter of keeping the linkage within it's flex limits and adjusting the alignment. At some point you will run out of adjusment or stress the tie rod ends etc. but 2-3" will be safe enough I would say. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > I'm putting 3" raised coils on the front of my 77' f-150 2wd. JC Whitney > sells drop down pitmans for 4-6" raises. I'm wondering if I need > one for the > 2-3 inches I'll gain with these new coils. Any help from the list members > would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to spend the extra $40-$50 if I > don't have to. > > rusty ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: galvanized sheetmetal Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:28:21 -0800 Number one, 28 ga steel is too thin for a floor pan and number two galvanized does not weld very well at all, especially if it's sheet metal. It will blob up and burn holes all over the place plus, Zink is toxic.....very toxic to breath. If you weld galvanized you should have an air hose in your mask to keep the smoke out. Now......there are those who will tell you that you can't weld galvanized but if you clean it up with a grinder where you weld it works fine and in a pinch you can just weld over it as long as the weld doesn't have to be more than about 25% strength. I tack stuff together all the time but wouldn't ever do this on anything structural. The Zink produces a very porous weld, full of inclusions which make it very weak. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Hi! > I need the FTE wisdom here: do any of you know if it is a good > idea to use galvanized sheetmetal to patch floorpans? I am talking > mig welding galvanized sheetmetal to regular floorpans here. > > Gerry ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:43:35 -0800 I already knew all these things, just wanted to see how many others would respond:-) It's gratifying to know that we are a pretty knowledgeable group, eh? Heat transfer was the main issue I was taught but debris just makes good sense too. Debris is logical and easily reasoned on but heat transfer is one of those arcane things many people would not consider :-) Just to add (who would have guessed :-)) to this, the heat transfer also has to do with cooling parts during operation that many would not think about. One of the primary jobs of the crank/rod interface is cooling the rods and thus carrying heat away from the pistons and piston pins. If you don't get good heat transfer at the connecting rods and block (via mains) then the pistons will over heat and cause the wrist pins to seize among other things. Just a little trivia for the gear heads :-) Oil does about 75% of the cooling in the engine and the crank is the heat exchanger. If you don't get the heat to the crank, the oil can't carry it away. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Any foreign material also impedes the some of the heat transfer > between the > bearing material and the rod/block which can cause overheated bearings. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: CJ's with QJ's Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:44:49 -0800 Or Holley 4165/75 :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Just because it bolts onto a spreadbore manifold, it's not necessarily a > Rochester QuadraJet (could be a Carter Thermoquad) > > George Selby ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Q jet Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:46:06 -0600 Tony W. writes: >>It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't >paying attention to that discussion. << Be sure it is not the FOMOCO Spreadbore pattern before you go throwing things away.. They "LOOK" alike, but don't measure to be the same and will not interchange. Like someone else suggested to someone else. Get you a gasket first and see if it fits both the intake and the carb. The Motorcraft spreadbore is a pretty good carb after you get it right. It is kinda stubborn to get to know, but I have one on my sons 460 and I plan to use one on mine. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 06:53:49 -0700 From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 460 and C6 George, I will be using the 460 and C-6 out of the 250 to put in my F350 with is rated at 10,000lb. I was asking just swapping the axles from the 250 into my 150 just because, even at that my 150 is rated at 6000 but it has a 9 inch rear end. Thanks for the info. I was stationed at Camp Lejeune for 7 1/2 years. I know all about the DMV George Selby wrote: > One thing that may cause problems for you: You can't legally increase the > GVWR or GCWR of a vehicle. Even if you swap axles, brakes, and engines, you > cannot increase your legal towing or load carrying capacity. For one thing > the frame is lighter-duty on the smaller trucks. > > In most states, they have a special police force (it's DMV enforcement here > in NC) just to make sure there aren't any overloaded or otherwise illegal > big trucks/tractor/trailers on the road. They have portable scales, and > can check you on the spot anywhere. If you are overloaded, they can make > you ditch the trailer until it weighs right, or just give you a massive > fine. It reads on the back of my license that I can't tow a vehicle over > 10,000 lbs anyway, you have to get a CDL for any towed weight over that. > > It sounds to me like you need at least a real 1 ton truck. In fact that > may not be enough, because the GCWR of my buddies Dodge is only 20,000 lbs, > and sounds to me like you could exceed that with your 1/2 ton and the 15000 > lb trailer. He had a 3/4 ton before that, and I can say that the tires and > brakes were bigger on the 1 ton than the 3/4 ton, which are larger than any > 1/2 tons. > > We almost got into legal trouble just towing a 3 car gooseneck behind > it. We had 3 cars on it, and drove by the weigh station when we entered > NC. We had about 12,000 lbs loaded weight on the trailer. About five > miles down the road we started hearing chatter on the CB about a Dodge > dually that the DMV was real pissed at. They tried to run us down, but > there was too much other truck traffic that day for them to escape the > weight station in time (and we were going a steady 75.) We got off the > highway after that, and travelled off-interstate for the rest of our journey. > > George Selby > 70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6 > 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd > 86 Nissan 300ZX > 92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD > gselby4x4 earthlink.net
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com -- William (Tony) Whited 74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460 77 F150 Custom 460 El Paso, TX Semper Fi ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:04:26 -0600 From: BrOKE-|nC <dahorse jvlnet.com>
Subject: Re: CJ's with QJ's George... not to start an argument but Dodge did indeed use the Q-Jet on there 4x4 pickups in 85.....not only did I buy one brand new that way, but I used to work for a Dodge dealer part time and these were in fact oem! As a side note they were also used on many Police/fleet 318's as well through the mid 80's. As fpr the Q-jet on a 460 discusion...I have never seen one that wasn't a cj motor or a Boss clevland...not ta say they didn't meaybe build them.I just personally have never seen one. Norm At 03:08 AM 3/21/01 -0500, you wrote: >I hate to tell you this, but in 85 and 86 they used they a Carter >Thermoquad on Mopar 4bbl V8's. Of this I can guarantee, since in addition >to the Fords and Jeeps you already know I have, I also have a 85 Dodge W-100. > >Let's all chant - Just because it's a spreadbore carb, it's not necessarily >a Rochester QuadraJet (could be a Motorcraft 4350,) and >Just because it bolts onto a spreadbore manifold, it's not necessarily a >Rochester QuadraJet (could be a Carter Thermoquad) > >George Selby ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6 Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:05:59 -0800 Here's hoping the tag is still on it. There are two major design types that require two different Zip kits to rebuild it that I know of and there may be more but if you don't have the tag you will be guessing and parts stores don't like to poke around in the dark. They are rebuildable for about $25 and if the throttle shaft is tight in the housing (not worn out and loose) then it is rebuildable. There are about 20 EPA designes over the years which make them look different and have different ports on them but the basic housings are all the same shape and size AFAIK so the gasket kits have about 10 different gaskets in them to cover all the internal porting changes. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Gary, how are they to rebuild or can I by one of them after market? ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: free '79 Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:01:29 -0600 Southland writes: >>. I just gotta go pick it up and it's mine.<< Some folks just have all the luck. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 460 and C6 Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:10:34 -0800 Talking to our Motor Carrier Officer with the State Police I learned the same thing, if you tow over 10000# trailer across state lines you have to have a CDL and if your truck is rated over a certain GVW it has to be licensed differently even with a pickup box on it. It becomes a commercial license which adds about $400 to the tag in Michigan. As I understand it, the weight thing applies to utility or car hauler trailers, not campers but not sure. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > George, I will be using the 460 and C-6 out of the 250 to put in > my F350 with is > rated at 10,000lb. I was asking just swapping the axles from the > 250 into my 150 > just because, even at that my 150 is rated at 6000 but it has a 9 > inch rear end. > Thanks for the info. I was stationed at Camp Lejeune for 7 1/2 > years. I know > all about the DMV ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Voltage jump Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:14:34 -0600 Southland writes: >>Did this cause your problem with your Mopar?<< Don't know what caused it. Wasn't any noticeable powder or anything in the cap, but the rotor sure had a path through the middle of it for the spark, and it wouldn't hit a lick. I realize that when electricity jumps from electrode to electrode, then there is eventually a buildup deposit that inhibits spark jump, but I've never had this happen previously and I'm 64 years old and have put litterally hundreds of thousands of miles on various vehicles. And as I said previously, I'm not in the habbit of changing the cap nor the rotor unless I determine they are a problem and that is almost always never. I have had caps crack, and I have had them to saturate with dampness and both cause havoc. I have had rotors to break, but I've never had one to leak to ground. Sure stumped me. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 460 & C6 Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:20:08 -0600 Tony W. writes: >>Well please tell me?????<< I did.. In the very next post. I was trying to get into the "Edit" portion of Outlook Express and hit "Send" instead. Obviously I wasn't ready to send. Ease up Darrell!! Go work on Tweety or something. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 460 and C-6 Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:25:12 -0800 I can see what you mean but I still hesitate to recommend this. I've thought about it many times myself and almost bought a 250 4x4 for this reason but I'm holding out for a 350 which will do all I want in one truck and I will "Parlay" my other trucks to get it rather than go to all that work again. I've made 4x4's out of 2x4's and swapped axles but you still have a light duty chassis under it that flexes and even bends. I had a 48 GMC bus axle under a 67 F-100 once and bent the frame using it as a wrecker. Just goes to show there are limits......:-) I would say work wise you are looking at about the same amount of work to swap the cab or axles. Swapping the cab though will usually involve new mounts or some work to fix the old ones. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Gary, My F150 has a freshly rebuild 460 and C-6 and the body and > interior are > in allot better shape then the 250 also we will only have a bill > of sale for > the 250 not a title. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 10:11:30 -0500 From: Ted Wnorowski <theodore ford-trucks.net>
Subject: Re: galvanized sheetmetal >Number one, 28 ga steel is too thin for a floor pan Yes, way too thin. >and number two >galvanized does not weld very well at all, It depends. I used to make rooftop heat recovery equipment in a fab shop in Toledo. All the base pans were 8- 12" channel with galvanized sheets welded to the bottom. Usually 14-16 ga., but galvanized none the less. The ones we made for the Navy actually had to be Magnafluxed. > Zink is >toxic.....very toxic to breath. If you weld galvanized you should have an >air hose in your mask to keep the smoke out. It won't kill ya, maybe in mass quantities, but it will give you the worst stomachache ache you've ever had. Drinking milk usually clears it up. Not trying to start anything, just relaying my experiences. Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://theodore.clubfte.com/ http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wnorowski.com/ mailto:theodore ford-trucks.net
' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed ' 63 F-100 parts truck ' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: free '79 Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 09:29:40 -0800 Yeah, I just wish I didn't have all that bad luck to go with it... -----Original Message----- From: Azie L. Magnusson [mailto:maggie11 HiWAAY.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 6:01 AM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] free '79 Southland writes: >>. I just gotta go pick it up and it's mine.<< Some folks just have all the luck. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. = ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 12:28:08 EST Subject: Tryin to chill! In a message dated 3/21/2001 6:25:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:
> Ease up Darrell!! Go work on Tweety or something. > > > Azie Magnusson > Ardmore, Al. > > I wish!!!!! Poor ole Tweety is sittin next to my house providing the neiborhood cats with a nice place to lay under. My motor is paid for, Ive got almost all the parts I need, but I still have no time to get it apart. I keep having to move my completion date forward. I figure it should be on the road by June, but it wont see dirt till maybe December. Ive been thinkin a lot about safety lately, and with double the output of the old motor, I imagine things can get pretty hairy. So Ive come up with a front end lift so I can run better tires up front, and have priced out a cage for the cab. Along with the cage, Im getting beard seats and safety harnesses. Anyhow, Im doin it again, all excited bout the truck, and nothing I can do right now. Take it easy everyone, Im gonna go breathe in a bag for a few minutes...... Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Alex Jansen" <alexjansen wi.rr.com>
Subject: '77 F-150, 4x2, 300, 3 on the tree Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:28:47 -0800 This is my first post on this list although i have been lurking for some time now. I have a '79 F-150 with a 300 that seems to have a mind of its own, i'm hoping you guys all have some advice. The problem is sometimes the starter refuses to do anything, I turn the key and it just sits there, no click and no turning over. I have replaced the starter (twice in the last month), the solenoid, the battery (twice), and still have no luck, this is not always happening but usually does. Even when it won't start the lights seem to be plenty bright so i know the battery is not dead but usually if i try to jump it it will start. I'm really lost, if the lights are full brightness, why would jumping it help? Another thing is that the truck usually doesn't like to start, never has, i have it down to an art now so i haven't worried about it. The only way it will start is by not touching the gas and just turning the key for a half second. If i hold the key there for any longer it doesn't start, it will turn over and turn over until the battery is dead, occasionally it will start if the battery was full after cranking for about 10 min, not before though, its either the first 10 seconds or not for 10 min, never inbetween. If it doesn't start on the fist or second shot its a lost cause and i have to pour gas down the carb to get it to start but then as soon as it does its fine for the day. This only happens after the truck has sat like overnight. I have replaced the fuel pump and that didn't do anything. I was thinking it needed a new accelerator pump or something so i can pump it before hitting the key but i don't see one on the 1V carb. Is there one? Any suggestions? One last off topic thing, hope no-one gets mad. This list is so incredible, just watching you guys i have learned a lot, and although I love my fords more than anything, my son decided to buy a jeep for his first vehicle. I was wondering because I saw a few mentions of jeeps if any of you knew of any jeep type e-mail lists like this? I know it could never be as great as this one but..... if its 1/4 as helpful as this list I and he could still learn a lot. Thanks in advance guys!! .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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