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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 19:56:48 -0500 (EST)
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61-79-list Digest Tue, 20 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 090

In This Issue:
Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
Re: FE Water Pump Problem
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: 460 and C6
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: 460 and C-6
Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: 460 and C-6
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Drop down pitman
Re: 460 and C-6
Re: 460 and C-6
Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
CJ's with QJ's ?
460 & C6
Re: 460 & C6
460 & C6
Re: 460 & C6
Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque
Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque
Adding another Ford to the stable...
Re: Rotors and cap replacement
Re: FE Water Pump Problem
galvanized sheetmetal

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 00:14:09 -0500


I guess if you can get them tuned in right they are good carbs.  I have
heard them being referred to as  "Quadra-Junk "  many a times.
-----Original Message-----
From: William (Tony) Whited <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
To: perf-list ford-trucks.com <perf-list ford-trucks.com>;
61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, March 19, 2001 9:45 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
>paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you give the low
>down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA
>
>"William (Tony) Whited" wrote:
>
>> Well it looks like I will be getting my 460 and C-6 from a fellow list
>> member, better then that I will be getting the whole truck.  It is a 77
>> F250 2x4,
>>
>> 1. What do I need to do to this motor to make it ""pull!!!!""" my 15,000
>> lb 5th wheel trailer?  I mean down low, 70 mph on the interstate, up the
>> mountains etc..  I want my cake and to eat it too.
>>
>> 2.   So it looks like I will be swapping the rear axle into my 77 F150.
>> What concerns or problems will I have with this swap?
>>
>> 3.  How hard would it be to change the front ends on my 77 F150 to this
>> 77 F250?  Pros and cons?
>>
>> TIA
>
>--
>William (Tony) Whited
>74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
>77 F150 Custom 460
>El Paso, TX
>Semper Fi
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 02:02:21 EST
Subject: Re: FE Water Pump Problem

I had to replace a similar item on my 400 last time I was in it. Twas
actually for the heater hose to block fitting in my case. I got it from Ford.
Dont remember the exact price but wasnt much. Jsut tapped it back intot he
block with a little sealent for good measure. Been working great for several
years now.

George M in Fl.


In a message dated 03/19/01 4:57:18 PM Eastern Standard Time,
billyboy surfside.net writes:


> Hi Everyone---I was replacing the water pump on my 66 F-250, 352, and
> everything was going great until........you know that little hose that goes
> from the water pump to the intake manifold? Yep, your right---The fitting
> that comes out of the manifold rotted away and now I need a little bit of
> help. I can get the old one out with a little bit of patience, but, where do
> I get a new one, what's it called, and are there any tricks or procedures I
> should follow in order to complete the job successfully? Thanks soooo much
> in advance---Bill
>
>





------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 02:17:54 EST
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick

I had much the same exerience as a "younger man" with a '32 John Deer B (no
elec starter, spin teh flywheel!). Started great once you knew the ritual and
it was cold. Try to restart it hot and forget it, you'd be yanking that
flywheele till your arms fell off!  We'd tow it around the yard with the
truck, a 70 Ford F100, still to no avail.

George M in Fl.


n a message dated 03/19/01 8:05:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,
vhhuston switch.com writes:


>   Speaking of diesel, I hate it, except for cleaning things. I recall
> cold days trying to get the JD 4020 started (glow plug smow plug), grinding
> down the batteries, taking things apart to make sure everything was working,
> and wondering why the fungus showed up even though I had taken preventive
> measures. Once started, it was a great tractor, but starting was a
> nightmare.
>





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 02:50:46 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 460 and C6


At 12:46 AM 3/20/01 -0500, you wrote:
>It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
>paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you give the low
>down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA

If it's like the 77 460 from an E-350 sitting in my garage, then it's
definitely a Motorcraft 4350.  If it works, I'd keep it. Small primaries
for good mileage, HUGE secondaries to pull that load up a hill.  It really
woke up my Jeep when I switched.  Jets are the same in the 4350 and  the
2100/2150 and 4300, so if you can find a few of these used in junkyards,
you can jet them.  The secondaries do not use jets, the vacuum just pulls
fuel from a dump in the middle of the venturies.  Different years use
different jets, in my Jeep a 78 carb had jets 4 sizes larger than the carb
on my 82, and they both had 360s.

You all have forced me to go outside and measure.  The two front studs
(center to center) are 5.25 inches apart on the manifold that holds a
Motorcraft 4350.  If the number is smaller than this by about an inch, then
it's a Q-Jet type manifold (I had a Thermoquad in the garage, I measured it
and it's exactly 1 inch smaller, so it is 4.25 inches.)  So if it is 5.25",
its a Holley pattern (squarebore or 4350 spreadbore.  You can tell them
apart by the much larger diameter of the secondaries on the 4350
manifold.  A standard Holley 1850 will not fit a 4350 manifold.  There is a
gap around the secondaries if you try to do this.)  If it's 4.25", then
it's a Spreadbore manifold (Q-Jet or Thermoquad.)

George Selby
70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:01:38 -0800


Didn't it have a gas tank for starting?  All I've seen had two petcocks, one
for diesel and one for gas.  You close the diesel, open the gas, spin the
flywheel and it starts first or second time every time.  Warm it up a few
minutes, switch the petcocks and you're off :-)  We used to call them
"Putput's" because of the way they sounded :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I had much the same exerience as a "younger man" with a '32 John
> Deer B (no
> elec starter, spin teh flywheel!). Started great once you knew
> the ritual and
> it was cold. Try to restart it hot and forget it, you'd be yanking that
> flywheele till your arms fell off!  We'd tow it around the yard with the
> truck, a 70 Ford F100, still to no avail.
>
> George M in Fl.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:05:29 -0800


Been there and done that but now that I'm a "perfectionist" I don't like the
tooth marks in my stuff :-)  All trucks have them somewhere anyway so why
not invest in a set and be done with it, eh?

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> > From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
>
> > It depends :-) Try using a torqe's bit to loosen the striker bolt on the
> > door piller and move it around a bit first (since that's the
> easiest thing
> > to do).
>
> Or you can use a pipe wrench if you dont have a Torx bit.  May
> not be by the
> Book, lol, but works evey time :))))
>
> Rich


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 460 and C-6
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:23:39 -0800


I'm sorry if I seem a little confused but WHY would you want to move a 250
axle to a 150 when you already have a 250 frame and body and engine
and.....and.....

Is your 150 a 4x4?

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> 2.   So it looks like I will be swapping the rear axle into my 77 F150.
> What concerns or problems will I have with this swap?
>
> --
> William (Tony) Whited


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:31:19 -0800


As George already pointed out, this is the most common "Stock" carb found on
460's and is a ford proprietary, Holley carb, not a Rochester unless someone
has gone to a lot of trouble to change it over.  Again I agree with George,
they are very good carbs and will give you better mileage than ANY square
bore carb due to the spread bore layout.  I've said this before and don't
mind (who would have guessed :-)) saying it again:  The spread bore carb was
the last major design breakthrough in carbs before EFI and is the next best
thing to it.  If money wasn't an issue it might have prevented EFI from ever
even happening :-) (EFI is cheaper to impliment and requires less
maintenence but is not more efficient) (Bank fire indeed......:-))

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
> paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you
> give the low
> down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA
>
> --
> William (Tony) Whited


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:44:53 -0800


"Priming" the pump is not really just priming the pump, (and I think you
implied this already so I'm not arguing :-)) it is pushing oil to every nook
and cranny of the engine before starting which prevents potential galling of
dry parts.  In my opinion it should even be done on a properly lubed and
sealed engine which has been just put together and installed before starting
to be safe.  Assy lube will protect only the parts you actually are able to
or remember to put it on.  By priming the pump you "Ensure" that it is lubed
even if you may have forgotten something :-)  It's like a last stronghold
and also protects the pump if you forgot to grease it up.

In my earlier days I put them together with shims (and oil) under the
bearings, Used 4 foot pipes to tighten bolts, reused old plugged screens,
old worn out pumps and never even thought about lubing the pump since it had
residual oil still in it and they held together longer than they had any
right to but we are talking spending some bucks and time and energy on
something we want to last, not bandaid stuff here so it pays to be carefull
and give yourself all the edge you can, eh?

Say, Rich, ever hear anything about oil under the bearings on assy, pro or
con?

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I wasnt sure would prime the oil pump, I would do this.  I personaly prime
> my oil pump just prior to starting. I never had a problem either
> way though.
> How do I know after writing this opinion my words will come back to haunt
> me:))
>
> Rich


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:50:13 -0800


The reason, and it may not always apply depending on the specific
application, is that the nut has no secondary interference to affect the
turning effort.  The only thing the torque wrench sees is the friction
between the nut flange and part surface and the thread friction.  There is
also "Torsion" on a bolt and the longer it is (Head bolts) the more the
torsion or spring of the bolt affects the true torque applied.  If you read
your manuals on torquing bolts you will see warnings about using extensions
for this same reason.  It is a small point but has been mentioned in tech
articles before so I (perfectionist that I am :-)) just couln't resist :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> OK Gary, I'll bite.  Just call me Bass mouth Rich.:))  I gatta ask, how do
> nuts on a stud torque " more better" than a bolt in a hole?  That is, with
> clean threads etc etc.


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 08:52:50 EST
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick

Nope, just a single tank for gas. If I remember right (It's been about 30 yrs
now), I'd open the petcocks, 3/4 choke, throttle would be one tap above idle.
yank the flywheel once with ignition off. Take er down to 1/2 choke, ignition
on, and yank again. Be ready to crack the throttle when she lights of and you
good to go. Also one of the sweetest idleing engines I'd ever heard next to
these Fords, and would also pull like a storm trooper. What a twin cylinder
it was. Never did find out why it wouldnt restart hot, so I just made it a
point not to kill it. Dad, as good a guy as he was, just never quite got the
touch of that machine.

George M in Fl.

In a message dated 03/20/01 8:00:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:


> Didn't it have a gas tank for starting?  All I've seen had two petcocks, one
> for diesel and one for gas.  You close the diesel, open the gas, spin the
> flywheel and it starts first or second time every time.  Warm it up a few
> minutes, switch the petcocks and you're off :-)  We used to call them
> "Putput's" because of the way they sounded :-)
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:55:45 -0600
Subject: Drop down pitman
From: Rusty Nail <rnail mmgworldwide.com>


I'm putting 3" raised coils on the front of my 77' f-150 2wd. JC Whitney
sells drop down pitmans for 4-6" raises. I'm wondering if I need one for the
2-3 inches I'll gain with these new coils. Any help from the list members
would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to spend the extra $40-$50 if I
don't have to.

rusty
1977 f150
2wd 400m
Kansas City

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:58:08 -0600
From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: Re: 460 and C-6


>It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
>paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you give the low
>down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA
>
To clarify, Tony, I have seen the truck you are buying from Howard and it
has the Motorcraft spread bore 4-bbl (4350?), not a Rochester Quadrajet.

With regards to your question about swapping the front and rear end, I
believe it is a direct swap.  I have a '68 F250 that I converted to a F100
and I just bolted up a rear end and front swing axles.  It worked just
fine.  You should be able to do the same in reverse, assuming the track of
the two trucks are the same, which I believe yours would be.  The worst you
might run into is different types of brake hoses.

Now, having said that, since you want the 3/4 ton running gear AND the
engine AND the trans perhaps you should just take your cab and bed and drop
it on the frame of the F250 you are buying.  That might be a faster way to
go and will also afford you easy access to the engine and trans for
rebuilding purposes.
  _
_| ~~.  John Strauss
\, *_}  jstrauss inetport.com
  \(    Texas Fight!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 09:10:04 -0500
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick


The diesel JD 4020 sure didn't have a gas tank. It did come in a gas
version, as well as LP.

Virgil

> Didn't it have a gas tank for starting?  All I've seen had two petcocks,
> one
> for diesel and one for gas.  You close the diesel, open the gas, spin the
> flywheel and it starts first or second time every time.  Warm it up a few
> minutes, switch the petcocks and you're off :-)  We used to call them
> "Putput's" because of the way they sounded :-)
>
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 09:16:18 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Drop down pitman




Rusty Nail wrote:
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> I'm putting 3" raised coils on the front of my 77' f-150 2wd. JC Whitney
> sells drop down pitmans for 4-6" raises. I'm wondering if I need one for the
> 2-3 inches I'll gain with these new coils. Any help from the list members
> would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to spend the extra $40-$50 if I
> don't have to.
>

Not really sure on 2WD, but my 79 bronc needed nothing when I put in 2"
front coils. When I first put a 4" lift in my 78 bronco, it needed
dropped pitman and adj track bar.

                                     OX


> rusty
> 1977 f150
> 2wd 400m
> Kansas City
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:52:16 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 460 and C-6


Gary, My F150 has a freshly rebuild 460 and C-6 and the body and interior are
in allot better shape then the 250 also we will only have a bill of sale for
the 250 not a title.

GaryBBB wrote:

I'm sorry if I seem a little confused but WHY would you want to move a 250

> axle to a 150 when you already have a 250 frame and body and engine
> and.....and.....
>
> Is your 150 a 4x4?
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> > 2.   So it looks like I will be swapping the rear axle into my 77 F150.
> > What concerns or problems will I have with this swap?
> >
> > --
> > William (Tony) Whited
>

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:55:18 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 460 and C-6


John, Thanks for the info.  I think I may be better off with just the axle swap,
I am limited by the tools that I have here at the house, I think the cap and bed
swap would be a little more then I can chew.  Also I want to have the minimal
amount of down time, i.e. I change the rear out one weekend and do the front end
another weekend.  Thanks again for the info.

John Strauss wrote:

> >It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
> >paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you give the low
> >down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA
> >
> To clarify, Tony, I have seen the truck you are buying from Howard and it
> has the Motorcraft spread bore 4-bbl (4350?), not a Rochester Quadrajet.
>
> With regards to your question about swapping the front and rear end, I
> believe it is a direct swap.  I have a '68 F250 that I converted to a F100
> and I just bolted up a rear end and front swing axles.  It worked just
> fine.  You should be able to do the same in reverse, assuming the track of
> the two trucks are the same, which I believe yours would be.  The worst you
> might run into is different types of brake hoses.
>
> Now, having said that, since you want the 3/4 ton running gear AND the
> engine AND the trans perhaps you should just take your cab and bed and drop
> it on the frame of the F250 you are buying.  That might be a faster way to
> go and will also afford you easy access to the engine and trans for
> rebuilding purposes.
>    _
>  _| ~~.  John Strauss
>  \, *_}  jstrauss inetport.com
>    \(    Texas Fight!

-
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:57:19 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6


Gary, how are they to rebuild or can I by one of them after market?

GaryBBB wrote:

> As George already pointed out, this is the most common "Stock" carb found on
> 460's and is a ford proprietary, Holley carb, not a Rochester unless someone
> has gone to a lot of trouble to change it over.  Again I agree with George,
> they are very good carbs and will give you better mileage than ANY square
> bore carb due to the spread bore layout.  I've said this before and don't
> mind (who would have guessed :-)) saying it again:  The spread bore carb was
> the last major design breakthrough in carbs before EFI and is the next best
> thing to it.  If money wasn't an issue it might have prevented EFI from ever
> even happening :-) (EFI is cheaper to impliment and requires less
> maintenence but is not more efficient) (Bank fire indeed......:-))
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> > It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
> > paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you
> > give the low
> > down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA
> >
> > --
> > William (Tony) Whited

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: CJ's with QJ's ?
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 10:01:15 -0500


Azie / Gary - I'm havin those same flashbacks. I'm positive my neighbor had
an early 70's T-bird with a Q-jet on it, (70-72) and I rebuilt it for him.
After seeing all these posts I spent a good hour last night going through
every piece of reference material I could find. My conclusion is that I must
be nuts, cause all I could find was those 70 and 71 429CJ's, and those
weren't in T-birds. I found them in every book I checked. It's the
D0OF-A,B,E,F. Now I'm thinking since it WAS the 70's maybe I wasn't "seeing"
as clearly as I thought. :-)
 I did find that in 85 and 86 they (Qjets) were even used on some Mopars. I
had never seen one of those.
Now I'll go put my flameproof Leisure suit on, and await responses.
     Later, Phil  (64 F-100, w/a Qjet)
                << Snipped >>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Gary writes:  >>Azie, was that you who mentioned all the spread bore
manifolds on EBay?  <<
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No!!! Not me.
I did write that there was a GM pattern used in one modelyear, but that I
don't know what year nor what particular vehicle but I remembered it as
being the T-bird of some year.  That was probably wrong, since I just
read one of your post that said it was the CJ's and T-birds didn't have
CJ's.
Azie Magnusson




------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 460 & C6
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 10:27:53 -0600

Tony W. writes:  >>
Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 09:57:48 -0700
From: "William Whited (Tony)" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 460 & C6


Well please tell me?????

"Azie L. Magnusson" wrote:

> Tony W. writes:  >>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.
>

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 460 & C6
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 10:50:08 -0600

Tony W. writes:  >>  1. What do I need to do to this motor to make it
""pull!!!!""" my 15,000 lb 5th wheel trailer?  I mean down low, 70
mph on the interstate, up the mountains etc..  I want my cake and to
eat it too.<<

Nothing.  The 460 is naturally a torque monster and will easily get you
to 70mph pulling your 15,000# trailer on the IS..Stopping it may be
your worst nightmare.

>>2.   So it looks like I will be swapping the rear axle into my 77 F150.
What concerns or problems will I have with this swap?<<

If your F150 is Long wheel base:
There should be no problems.  Everything should be "bolt in".  The U joint
at the rear may have to be changed.  The Dana might be larger than the 9"
but the joints are available at most local parts stores.  Take both with you
and tell them you want a U joint that is like one of them on one cross and
like the other on the other cross. The driveshaft may be different length also,
but if you are getting the whole truck, try to use the one from the donor. If
it will work, then you won't have the U joint problem for sure.
If your truck is a short wheel base, then you will have to fabricate a driveshaft.
(cut one of yours down to fit. When you do this have the correct end installed).

>>3.  How hard would it be to change the front ends on my 77 F150 to this
77 F250?  Pros and cons?<<

Remove the whole axle assy's from the F250 and they will bolt into the F150.
This way you won't need to carry but one spare..  8 lugs at all four corners.
Plus the added braking capacity.  Take the ones from the F250 first and
inspect and replace all components as needed while the F150 is still on the
road.  Change the F250 coils into the F150 for a much firmer front suspension
while you're at it.  I'd also use the F250's rear springs..Then basically you have
an F250 with F150 badges..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 12:11:18 EST
Subject: Re: 460 & C6

In a message dated 3/20/2001 8:51:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
f10074 ford-trucks.com writes:


> Well please tell me?????
>
> "Azie L. Magnusson" wrote:
>
>

He just likes tha sound of your name  :)

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 12:49:43 EST
Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque


In a message dated 03/20/2001 8:43:45 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:

<< ever hear anything about oil under the bearings on assy, pro or
con? >>

Don't ever build an engine and leave oil or any kind of lube under the
bearings! You want absolutely clean dry metal contact between the backs of
bearings and the block or rods, so wipe them clean and dry. If any lube gets
under the bearings during a rebuild they have a potential to come loose and
spin.

Rollie



------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 10:03:33 -0800

Any foreign material also impedes the some of the heat transfer between the
bearing material and the rod/block which can cause overheated bearings.
Always wipe the rod/block and back of the bearing with clean solvent to
remove any grease/oil/foreign material.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: <SevnD2 aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 9:49 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque


> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> In a message dated 03/20/2001 8:43:45 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> gpeters3 lni.net writes:
>
> << ever hear anything about oil under the bearings on assy, pro or
>  con? >>
>
> Don't ever build an engine and leave oil or any kind of lube under the
> bearings! You want absolutely clean dry metal contact between the backs of
> bearings and the block or rods, so wipe them clean and dry. If any lube
gets
> under the bearings during a rebuild they have a potential to come loose
and
> spin.




------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Adding another Ford to the stable...
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 10:53:27 -0800


I must be a magnet for such things.  One of dad's coworkers has a '79 F150
2WD SB that has lost all forward gears.  They don't know what is wrong and
don't wanna spend any money on it.  They tried to donate it to charity, but
because they live in a remote area (about 35 miles from the city) nobody
will come and get it as "the tow bill would be too high".  They just
licensed it and other than the trans issue everything works.  I just gotta
go pick it up and it's mine.

Yee haw!  (I would rather have a '67-72), but one takes what one can get.

I have no idea what it has under the hood.  Most likely 351/C6?


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Rotors and cap replacement
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 00:46:12 -0500


> ------------------------------
>
> From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
> Subject: Rotors and cap replacement
> Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:42:47 -0600
>
> John wrote:  >>The only GM HEI failures I ever had were the rotor
> and the cap. The spring > loaded center conductor in the cap would
> wear away to nothing in not very > many miles (20K).<<
>
It had developed
a path for the spark to jump through the middle of it and go to the
center shaft(ground).  At that time I also replaced the cap.
I have two vehicles with this same engine so I automatically changed
the same components in the other one also.  These are MOPARS.

> Can someone tell me why a cap or a rotor shouild ever be changed
> except for the same reason I just described??? What are some
> more reasons for changing these??
>
> Azie Magnusson

You were lucky Azie.  GM's build up what I was tought is an "ozone" in the
dizzy. This produces the redish powder which you see on the rotor.  This
"powder" can actually EAT thru a GM rotor and cause a short to the dist.
post or destroy the control module in the dizzy.  I've seen both happen with
the same results, the car aint startin.  Replace cap and rotor at 50k miles
and dont worry about it.  As far as how do these items wear, nothing
scientific here :)), The rotor rubbs the coils' carbon pole, ( wear) 50 KV
jumps from the end of the rotor to the dizzy cap contacts, this causes
burning of the metal.  All this results in resistance which means less or no
voltage to the plugs.  Did this cause your problem with your Mopar?

Rich


------------------------------

From: "Jason Kendrick" <390fe ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 23:45:27 GMT
Subject: Re: FE Water Pump Problem


George is right. I bought one of those years ago at my local Ford dealership.
The price was very minimal...
Jason Kendrick
1978 F150 Supercab 460/C6
1970 F100 Custom 390/C6
Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "NP 540" <np540 hotmail.com>
Subject: galvanized sheetmetal
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 23:53:43


Hi!
I need the FTE wisdom here: do any of you know if it is a good
idea to use galvanized sheetmetal to patch floorpans? I am talking
mig welding galvanized sheetmetal to regular floorpans here. The
galvanized sheetmetal I can get is the same (?) kind as used
on heating ducts in buildings. Is it a good idea? Or instead, should
I get "regular" sheetmetal? The car I am trying to fix is a Chevette.
(flame-proof clothing at the ready....). By the way, anybody know
where I can get replacement floorpans for a Chevette? None seems to
be available here in Canada. (pushing my luck?   ;)  ) ....


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