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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 00:46:08 -0500 (EST)
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To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #89
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 19 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 089

In This Issue:
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Ford jeeps?
injected y blocks
Ford Haven ?
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: Fastener Torque
Anybody know what the maximum lift cam I can put in a 351
Re: Anybody know what the maximum lift cam I can put in a
FE Water Pump Problem
E Bay spreadbores
Re: Fastener Torque
Rotors and cap replacement
Cam angles
Re: E Bay spreadbores
Reusing headbolts
Re: Rotors and cap replacement
Re: Cam angles
Broken/corroded exhaust manifold bolts
Re: Cam angles
Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque
Re: Rotors and cap replacement
460 and C-6
Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 01:24:25 EST
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs

In a message dated 3/18/2001 5:10:34 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:


> If I were spending a little cash on an engine I would go with
> studs rather than bolts if you decide to get new ones.
>
>

I'll go one step further, in some applications, studs are cheaper than new
head bolts.  Thats why my 460 is getting the stud kit.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 02:38:27 EST
Subject: Ford jeeps?

ok folks, Im sure most of you are thinkin of the ww2 jeeps Ford built, but Im
sorry, these aint them.  I found an ad on ebay for a 1975 ford built Jeep for
the brazilian market!  If it wasnt in portugese Id buy it.  Just wonderin if
anyone had any info.  Jeeps are cool off-road toys, but I wanna stick to
ford, and those WW2 Ford script jeeps are either spendy, or buckets.  this
might open a few more doors.  Any one got any info?

heres the IRL
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1123141318

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: "Greg Schnakenberg" <greg mail.dntcj.ro>
Subject: injected y blocks
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 10:12:22 +0200


Steve, I guess I am new, i started "lurking" just after that time.  I guess
too that I never paid much attention to the later stuff, but am beginning to
now.

There has been a very interesting thread going on the y block site about
fuel injection for Y's.  I am building one right now (not injected).
apparently, it is quite a deal to port inject one.  there is discussion of a
home-built manifold, with the injectors placed where the hot water passage
used to be, in pairs of 2 and 2 facing each other.  seems like a bunch of
hassles to me for such an old engine that crys for 3 strombergs to crown it,
rather than a bunch of hoses! interesting though.

they are at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/yblock/YBLOCK.htm


>> Dave, I'd be VERY interested to see that article.

You must be new, compared to Sleddog and I, Kevin and I
had a "conversation" going for a couple of weeks in early 98(?)
about that very article, which was in Super Ford, don't recall
the issue, which I was refering to in a post a month or so ago
between the OX-man and myself, I had mistaken the casting year
as an E5TE, which should have been an E7TE casting, you know
what happens with age, right?

And a question to the OX, do you know of anyone who has fuel
injected a 292?? The problem with this engine is that the intake ports
are stacked, and there's no parts support for injection...


Steve & the (SWMBO) Rockette
Various FoMoCo products, and an MG-B-GT>>




------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: Ford Haven ?
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 07:55:35 -0500


Hi Ken, I got a quick chance to see the NEW Ford haven groupings. I didn't
see any listings for the "Full" size cars. Is that coming, or didn't anybody
send that one in ?  I'm not positive how you'd group those. There's a lot of
years specific differences, even on ones that "look" close. Kinda like the
61 to 66 F-series.
The Galaxies ran from 59 to 74, but you can imagine the differences. Some
years it was an emblem and other years it was a whole car line. You might be
able to go 60-64, then 65-66, 67-70 and 71-74.
Later, Phil  FGCoA # 694
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------
Ford Truck Enthusiasts has created Ford Haven.  Ford Haven
is a community for Enthusiasts of Ford Family Vehicles.
Check it out:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboards.cgi

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 08:05:32 -0500
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick



Speaking of diesel, I hate it, except for cleaning things. I recall
cold days trying to get the JD 4020 started (glow plug smow plug), grinding
down the batteries, taking things apart to make sure everything was working,
and wondering why the fungus showed up even though I had taken preventive
measures. Once started, it was a great tractor, but starting was a
nightmare.

Virgil


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 08:19:41 -0800


/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Hartwell" <hartwell vt.edu>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 2:48 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Two more 1979 F-150 Questions



> I have two more questions about Dad's truck:
>
> 1.)  The guy we bought if from said it had a 400, and we are pretty sure,
but perhaps the blocks are similar to others, and a number could be a clue
to if it is or isn't.  The number on the bottom of the block, which I saw
when I replaced the starter, was:  D7TE-A-2B.  Would this indicate it is a
400?

D7TE-A2B indicates that it is either a 351M or 400 truck engine, the blocks
are identical. The only way to tell the difference is to pull the oil pan
and check the casting # on the crank or pull a spark plug and measure the
stroke. A 400 will have a 4" stroke, the 351M will have a 3.5" stroke.



------------------------------

From: "mmiller14" <mmiller14 socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 09:31:34 -0800


GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net> wrote:
> To add to the torque debate (HeHeHeHe :-))))) Studs are the best
choice,
> hands down, if you want perfection :-)  They also have other
advantages:

The best reason I can think of is that you are able to absolutely
maximize thread contact area.  This is especially important on the
main caps, and to a slightly lesser degree on the heads.  No more
strip-outs and Heli-coils.  Aftermarket main and head studs are of
somewhat higher-tech metallurgy, too.  Less fear of over-stressing
them.  And no more worries (later) with the studs that go into water
passageways.  If they never come out again, so what!

He also wrote:
> Now, if you use self locking nuts the added resistance to turning

In the case of mains and heads, that would slightly upset getting the
correct torque ratings, assuming the studs were properly "bottomed
out".  However, it does lend itself nicely to using "pal nuts", a
second nut that goes on to keep the first nut tight by jamming against
it.  These are also referred to as "jam nuts".

Marv Miller - mailto:ae722 lafn.org
or:  mailto:mmiller14 socal.rr.com
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am"


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 15:09:48 -0600
From: "Don Yerhot" <DYERHOT nwhealth.edu>
Subject: Anybody know what the maximum lift cam I can put in a 351

Anybody know what the maximum lift cam I can put in a 351C 2V? That is, with stock springs. I'm looking at a Crane 266 with .508 lift and the CompCams 268H-10 with .494 lift. My stock springs all test out fine so I would rather not have to replace them. This engine will probably never see anything over 5000 rpm, so valve float shouldn't be an issue. TIA!

DonY
65 F250-351W-mild
74 F100-351W-wild


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Anybody know what the maximum lift cam I can put in a
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 13:48:37 -0800

I wouldn't go near .500 with any stock springs. Even .494 is a very iffy.
The installed height is 1.820 and the solid height on an early (70,71)
Clevelands is 1.37 so you're looking at a .450 lift. The later model (72-74)
solid height is 1.33 which puts you right at .490. I'd look at different
springs or milder cams.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yerhot" <DYERHOT nwhealth.edu>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 1:09 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Anybody know what the maximum lift cam I can put in a
351C 2V?That is, with stock springs. I'm look


> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Anybody know what the maximum lift cam I can put in a 351C 2V? That is,
with stock springs. I'm looking at a Crane 266 with .508 lift and the
CompCams 268H-10 with .494 lift. My stock springs all test out fine so I
would rather not have to replace them. This engine will probably never see
anything over 5000 rpm, so valve float shouldn't be an issue. TIA!




------------------------------

From: "Bill Deacon" <billyboy surfside.net>
Subject: FE Water Pump Problem
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 14:01:06 -0800

Hi Everyone---I was replacing the water pump on my 66 F-250, 352, and
everything was going great until........you know that little hose that goes
from the water pump to the intake manifold? Yep, your right---The fitting
that comes out of the manifold rotted away and now I need a little bit of
help. I can get the old one out with a little bit of patience, but, where do
I get a new one, what's it called, and are there any tricks or procedures I
should follow in order to complete the job successfully? Thanks soooo much
in advance---Bill



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: E Bay spreadbores
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:28:03 -0600

Gary writes:  >>Azie, was that you who mentioned all the spread bore
manifolds on EBay?  <<

No!!! Not me.

I did write that there was a GM pattern used in one modelyear, but that I
don't know what year nor what particular vehicle but I remembered it as
being the Tbird of some year.  That was probably wrong, since I just
read one of your post that said it was the CJ's and Tbirds didn't have CJ's.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:46:16 -0800


Ooooooooooh!  Another perfectionist on the list!  How nice :-)  I was
kidding of course :-)  I use "Pal" nuts or jam nuts to put the studs in in
the first place.  On aircraft every nut and bolt is safety wired on critical
parts and everything else is nylock nuts.  On racing engines they do much
the same thing so jam nuts would be indicated on exhaust or intake
manifolds, mains and even head bolts but not rod bolts IMHO due to weight
and clearance considerations.  There you should use safety wire only and I
believe they do in some cases on race engines.  The neat thing about safety
wire is that a good mechanic can get it piano wire tight with a little
practice and the nuts or bolts simply can't move at all.  The only part I
hate about it is all those tedious hours drilling the little holes on the
corners of all the nuts and bolts for the wire to fit through......:-)  Ever
try to drill a .090" hole (or smaller) on a 30 degree angled surface in
hardened material?

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> He also wrote:
> > Now, if you use self locking nuts the added resistance to turning
>
> In the case of mains and heads, that would slightly upset getting the
> correct torque ratings, assuming the studs were properly "bottomed
> out".


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Rotors and cap replacement
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:42:47 -0600

John wrote:  >>The only GM HEI failures I ever had were the rotor
and the cap. The spring > loaded center conductor in the cap would
wear away to nothing in not very > many miles (20K).<<

I had one of my childrens small(2.5L) engines to quit some time ago
and it nearly drove me crazy.  Yeah, I know - short trip!!
I'm not in the habit of replacing caps and rotors - ever.  In this
particular vehicle it turned out to be the rotor.  It had developed
a path for the spark to jump through the middle of it and go to the
center shaft(ground).  At that time I also replaced the cap.
I have two vehicles with this same engine so I automatically changed
the same components in the other one also.  These are MOPARS.

Can someone tell me why a cap or a rotor shouild ever be changed
except for the same reason I just described??? What are some
more reasons for changing these??

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Cam angles
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:33:02 -0600

Gary writes:  >>Some on the list may not realize that there is a 1
degree, sideways angle (0r thereabouts) on the cam lobes to allow
them to turn the lifters but primarily to reduce the load on the
engine and cam drive system.  <<

I thought this was designed into the lifter base.  I just installed
a set of new lifters and a new cam in a 460 I'm building and you
can try to stand the lifter on a perfectly level base and it will
rock back and forth a bit.  Put two lifters together (but end) and
they will rock quite a bit..


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: E Bay spreadbores
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:54:08 -0800


Actually its kinda funny how posts get mixed up as to who said what.  That's
why I started trying to leave the person's name somewhere in the reply :-)
I read in a Holley cross reference sheet I got with a rebuilt carb or maybe
it was the Holley Catalog I've been protecting with my life because it has
so much good info in it, not sure, but it said that it was a 68 something or
other and T-bird stands out in my mind as well but have no other knowledge
of it.  I pointed this out in a discussion about 4 years ago but it's all I
have to offer on the subject :-)  What it did was satisfy me that it was
100% kosher to use them on my 460 :-)  That's all I need to know since I
will probably just get the Offy manifold when I do it.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Gary writes:  >>Azie, was that you who mentioned all the spread bore
> manifolds on EBay?  <<
>
> No!!! Not me.
>
> read one of your post that said it was the CJ's and Tbirds didn't
> have CJ's.
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Reusing headbolts
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:52:29 -0600

Ton H. writes:  >>Does this mean I can reuse thoes old head bolts out
of the FE 360 I'm working on?<<

Yes!!  And reuse them again and again as long as you don't overtorque
them enough to stretch them or otherwise damage them someway..


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Rotors and cap replacement
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:01:46 -0800


Years ago I ran into quite a few that were cracked so bad they looked like
an electrical storm in summer when it was dark out.  One litterly fell apart
in my hand when I took it out.  If you have an oily engine that spits oil
all over the outside of the engine they will develop carbon trails in the
plastic that are very difficult to get out.  I've seen some on the inside
too.  It starts out as a low current drain and eventually develops into a
good short to ground and you get a miss then more misses and pretty soon it
won't start then you start scratching your head again.....:-)

If you have a dry engine and you take it to the car wash occasionally you
may never have to replace one.  I have also seen them with the electrodes
inside the cap worn away from the arcing but that usually takes a long time
:-)  I don't think I've seen more than one like that.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Can someone tell me why a cap or a rotor shouild ever be changed
> except for the same reason I just described??? What are some
> more reasons for changing these??
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cam angles
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:10:05 -0800


Well, I'm going from what I learned in a short block class.  My text book is
out in the barn and If I remember I will try to look it up.  I have also
seen lifters with rounded bottoms and it certainly seems like it would be
easier to grind it on the lifters than the cam but that's how I remembered
it.  We all know I am never wro.........Ok, maybe now and then :-)  That
class was 20 years ago and there's no rule that says a manufacturer can't
put the angle on either one as long as you buy them as a set with the cam I
suppose.

If you put the angle on the lifter though, it won't rotate the lifter as it
cycles because the high point of the lifter then would be it's center.  They
don't have to move much but they do have to move due to the pressure to keep
them evenly worn.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Gary writes:  >>Some on the list may not realize that there is a 1
> degree, sideways angle (0r thereabouts) on the cam lobes to allow
> them to turn the lifters but primarily to reduce the load on the
> engine and cam drive system.  <<
>
> I thought this was designed into the lifter base.  I just installed
> a set of new lifters and a new cam in a 460 I'm building and you
> can try to stand the lifter on a perfectly level base and it will
> rock back and forth a bit.  Put two lifters together (but end) and
> they will rock quite a bit..
>
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Broken/corroded exhaust manifold bolts
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:06:38 -0600

Gary Lee writes:  >>. On one side 5 out of 8 bolts are loose, 2snapped the
heads off and 1 is so corroded,none of my sockets will snag it.<<

Try a Metric socket just smaller than the SAE #.  You might even have
to tap it on lightly with a hammer..

>>Can the heads be lifted with the manifolds and then dealt with on the bench?<<

Yes!!..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cam angles
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:15:19 -0800


It just also occured to me that if you put it on the cam lobe it will act
like a bearing and rotate the lifter as the lobe edge rotates against the
lifter so that there is a minimum of actual rubbing going on during the lift
cycle.  The lifter rolls with the punch so to speak.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> If you put the angle on the lifter though, it won't rotate the
> lifter as it
> cycles
> >
> > I thought this was designed into the lifter base.  I just installed
> >
> >
> > Azie Magnusson
> > Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Assy Lube was Fastener Torque
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 20:29:16 -0500


> From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Cam assy lube is especially
> important because the 20 minute break in period is critical to the life of
> the cam .Due to the high stress load on this small area of hardned steel
the break in and proper
> assy lube are absolutely critical to success :-)
>
> I know much less about bearing assy lube.  I've always used engine oil for
> this.  Can you expand a little on this?

Bill wrote
> Assembly lube should be used on bearing surfaces. Cam assembly lube
should
> be used on cams, lifters and rockers. Motor oil is fine for the rest.

First off, I agree 100% with both of you.  I just used cam lube on my
brothers engine in his Blazer because I had plenty on hand and just wanted
to try it.  I used it to lube everything except the cylinders and bolts.
That motor has over 50 k on it and still has 50 psi oil pressure with no
noises.  I figured if its good enough for the break in of the cam, it should
be good enough for shell bearings.  I would have never tried it on any
customers engine, if for nothing else, I could prove I used the recommended
lube durring assembly.  Engine assembly lubes are generaly thicker than oil.
Most have the consistincy of a light grease.  I'm sure you read where the
"pros" use anything from vasoline to exotic engine assembly lubes, including
motor oils and STP.  Ive tried several different types on my engines to see
for myself what the hay.  Gatta admit though, I was a little nervous the
first time I used white vasoline, but I used it over 10 years ago in my
F250, its still running, so far anyway. hehe.  Always use cam asembly lube
on the valve train, thats not even worth expierimenting with for reasons you
have explained.  I've put several re ring engines together without it with
no apparant problems, just poured motor oil over the valve train, but will
never do it again.  I was tought that you use engine oil on bearings if your
going to run a motor within a "reasonable" time.  If the engine is going to
be stored for awhile, use a engine assembly lube or equivilent and allways
store it on end.  The theory behind this is that oil will pool at the bottom
of the bearing\journal after time.  I guess you could ask the question about
engines that set for long periods of time in the vehicle without being
started, how are they affected?  Not sure.  I was also tought to pack the
oil pump with engine assembly lube.  If I was building a engine for somebody
I wasnt sure would prime the oil pump, I would do this.  I personaly prime
my oil pump just prior to starting. I never had a problem either way though.
How do I know after writing this opinion my words will come back to haunt
me:)) I just put together a motor for my neighbors 75 ford truck last month.
I'm not gonna answer my phone for a week now:))

Rich


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Rotors and cap replacement
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 17:19:47 -0800

1. Rotors and caps are made of plastic which does degrade due to constant
heating and cooling which is responsible for many of the cracks in the caps.

2. In most cases the tip of the rotor does not touch the contacts in the
caps. An arc from the rotor tip to the conductor gradually wears away both
surfaces.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 4:42 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Rotors and cap replacement


> Can someone tell me why a cap or a rotor shouild ever be changed
> except for the same reason I just described??? What are some
> more reasons for changing these??




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:59:54 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 460 and C-6


Well it looks like I will be getting my 460 and C-6 from a fellow list
member, better then that I will be getting the whole truck.  It is a 77
F250 2x4,

1. What do I need to do to this motor to make it ""pull!!!!""" my 15,000
lb 5th wheel trailer?  I mean down low, 70 mph on the interstate, up the
mountains etc..  I want my cake and to eat it too.

2.   So it looks like I will be swapping the rear axle into my 77 F150.
What concerns or problems will I have with this swap?

3.  How hard would it be to change the front ends on my 77 F150 to this
77 F250?  Pros and cons?

TIA

PS.. I received many responses, including this one to my paid classified
ad I placed with FTE.  I feel that there isn't a better bunch of people
out there then FTE's list people.  I would rather pay a couple bucks and
place an ad here and get good responses from great people then place it
in some paper or web site where I don't know anyone and could get god
knows what.
--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:34:48 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: [perf-list] 460 and C-6


It looks like this 77 460 also has the quadrajet, it figures that I wasn't
paying attention to that discussion.  Gary or somebody can you give the low
down on it???  Good, bad, get rid of it, keep it????  TIA

"William (Tony) Whited" wrote:

> Well it looks like I will be getting my 460 and C-6 from a fellow list
> member, better then that I will be getting the whole truck.  It is a 77
> F250 2x4,
>
> 1. What do I need to do to this motor to make it ""pull!!!!""" my 15,000
> lb 5th wheel trailer?  I mean down low, 70 mph on the interstate, up the
> mountains etc..  I want my cake and to eat it too.
>
> 2.   So it looks like I will be swapping the rear axle into my 77 F150.
> What concerns or problems will I have with this swap?
>
> 3.  How hard would it be to change the front ends on my 77 F150 to this
> 77 F250?  Pros and cons?
>
> TIA

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 23:01:24 -0500


>
> From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>

> It depends :-) Try using a torqe's bit to loosen the striker bolt on the
> door piller and move it around a bit first (since that's the easiest thing
> to do).

Or you can use a pipe wrench if you dont have a Torx bit.  May not be by the
Book, lol, but works evey time :))))

Rich



------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 23:58:43 -0500




>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: GaryBBB
>   To add to the torque debate (HeHeHeHe :-))))) Studs are the best choice,
>   hands down, if you want perfection :-)  They also have other advantages:

OK Gary, I'll bite.  Just call me Bass mouth Rich.:))  I gatta ask, how do
nuts on a stud torque " more better" than a bolt in a hole?  That is, with
clean threads etc etc.  Other than that, I agree with the use of studs when
possible.
>
>   Ever try to put a head on and have the gasket move on you?
>   Ever try to put on a front cover and have the gasket fall off in the
dirt?
>   Ever try to put on valve covers and have the gaskets fall out of place
in
>   the back where you can't see it?
>   Ever try to re-install a pan in the truck and have the gaskets falling
all
>   over the place?
>   Ever try to install a fuel pump and have the gasket fall out?

NEVER NEVER NEVER.  Just kidding here of course

Some of the intake bolts can be replace with studs
>   as well to aid in locating the gaskets etc

>   Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,

Most intakes, due to the angle of the head where the intake bolts go, do not
allow for the use of studs.  The intake will not go over the studs and lie ....


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