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61-79-list Digest Sun, 18 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 088

In This Issue:
Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Dana 60 differences / 2 Styles?
Re: 87 up 460's
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
[61-79-list]Re: 87 up 460's
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: Dana 60 differences / 2 Styles?
[61-79-list]Re: 87 up 460's
Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Re: Ford's dirty little secret ?
Re: Tonneau/DuraSpark/Torquing
Re: 289/302 four barrel intake
Tonneau cover sources
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
ADMIN: ALL NEW FORD HAVEN - A community for enthusiasts o
ADMIN: OOPS.. WRONG URL -- ALL NEW FORD HAVEN - A communi
1972 F100
balance
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Re: 87 up 460's
Re: balance
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Joe Hartwell" <hartwell vt.edu>
Subject: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 05:48:03 -0500

Hey guys and gals,

I have two more questions about Dad's truck:

1.)  The guy we bought if from said it had a 400, and we are pretty sure, but perhaps the blocks are similar to others, and a number could be a clue to if it is or isn't.  The number on the bottom of the block, which I saw when I replaced the starter, was:  D7TE-A-2B.  Would this indicate it is a 400?

2.)  The passenger side door is a little annoying.  The driver's side door shuts with the push of a finger, and goes click...click, but the passenger side door needs to be shut firmly to close completely, but usually only clicks once and is a quarter inch from closing completely.  It seems as if the latching mechanism is either a bit too far away from the bolt on the frame, or the door is a little unsquare and the handle end is dropped a bit and needs lifted up, or both.  Is there a hinge adjustment, or should I use a block of wood and a jack at that end of the door to lift it up and let the pressure of the jack and the weight of the truck tweak the hinges a bit?

Thanks in advance for you help!

Joe Hartwell
1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L
1968 Ford F100 360
1997 Harley Sportster 883



------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Dana 60 differences / 2 Styles?
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 05:53:54 -0500


Are there two different types of Dana 60's?  One with king pins, and another
with a big ball looking thing (ball joint)?  I've seen two now that were
said to be 60's.  If they are both 60's, what's the difference between them
and the one with king pins....anything else?
Just Curious


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 04:14:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Dana 60 differences / 2 Styles?
From: Don <duckdon mac.com>


on 3/18/01 2:53 AM, Bob at xavetarx home.com wrote:

> Are there two different types of Dana 60's?  One with king pins, and another
> with a big ball looking thing (ball joint)?  I've seen two now that were
> said to be 60's.  If they are both 60's, what's the difference between them
> and the one with king pins....anything else?
> Just Curious


More like 3 or 4 or 5 styles.  There is the old closed knuckle style.  They
use a corse spline ( 16 IIRC).  Then there is the King pin style you saw and
those have 2 different types of joints also.  One is a roller bearing and
the other is a nylon insert.  Then there are at least 3 different axle
shafts that came with these.  Course 16 spline, 30 and the 35 spline heavy
duty shafts.  The newer D60 use a ball joint similar to the open knuckle
Dana 44.

I am sure I left out a bunch.

Laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdon duckdon.com

77 F-250
63 F-100 4x


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 06:35:22 -0800
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: 87 up 460's


Hi Greg ,

Nov. '96 Super Ford.

Low Buck 460 heads
by Tom Wilson

the shop doing the work is
Holmstrom Perf.
Livonia , MI
313 522 2512

I know only what the article says ...
gotta go milk cows ,
if you want the exact flow findings , I'll type them up later.
Basically , the ported E7TE heads outflowed the stock alum. SVO CJ heads
at .6oo lift .
Big difference was on the exhaust side

dP


Greg Schnakenberg wrote:
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Dave, I'd be VERY interested to see that article.  I know that as the older
> motors are getting more and more scarce and expensive, people will figure
> out how to make the newer stuff work.  I mean, look at all the 10 second
> Hondas out there!!!
>
> look thru your piles...ahem, files and see what you come up with.
>
> Greg S.
>
> <<I have a magazine article somewhere in my files(or is that piles ?  :-)
> ),
> in which the engine builder ported a set of EFI heads and got them
> flowing better than cast CJ heads . Said the exhaust port is much better
> than the originals .
>
> I'll see if I can find the article .
>
> dave Prasse
>
> > Greg S>>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 07:39:07 -0800


It depends :-) Try using a torqe's bit to loosen the striker bolt on the
door piller and move it around a bit first (since that's the easiest thing
to do).  If the hinge pins are worn out the door will sag and this can
happen or if the truck's body mounts are rusting away the cab will sag
unevenly and can cause misalignment too.  You will never bend the hinges,
the door will give first but there are adjuments on the hinges too you can
loosen the bolts and move them all around but mark the original location by
scribing the outline in the paint first so You can guestimate the original
location if you don't get it right after several tries.  Locating a door can
be frustrating, especially when the body is not quite right.

Use the bolts on the door for one direction and the ones on the piller for
the other, don't recall which is which right now but it's pretty obvious
when you look at it :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> quarter inch from closing completely.  It seems as if the
> latching mechanism is either a bit too far away from the bolt on
> the frame, or the door is a little unsquare and the handle end is
> dropped a bit and needs lifted up, or both.  Is there a hinge
> adjustment, or should I use a block of wood and a jack at that
> end of the door to lift it up and let the pressure of the jack
> and the weight of the truck tweak the hinges a bit?
>
> Thanks in advance for you help!
>
> Joe Hartwell


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject:  [61-79-list]Re: 87 up 460's
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 08:46:15 -0500


I have an article from the November 1996 SUPER FORD Magazine where Bob
Holmstrom of Holmstrom Performance works on the late model heads. He takes
the E7TE casting and ports it to flow almost as well as the SVO aluminium CJ
castings. It turns out that when Ford redesigned the heads for EFI they
filled the heads with cast iron to increase airflow velocity. The bonus is
they have good shaped intakes and even better exhaust port shapes. The
article states the heads look like miniature CJ and C302 ports with thick
walls, a porters dream.
The article is a photo copy and hard to read but if you would like I can
type it out and e-mail it to you.
John
'77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's

> Dave, I'd be VERY interested to see that article.  I know that as the
older
> motors are getting more and more scarce and expensive, people will figure
> out how to make the newer stuff work.  I mean, look at all the 10 second
> Hondas out there!!!
>
> look thru your piles...ahem, files and see what you come up with.
>
> Greg S.
>



------------------------------

From: "Jerry Summerall" <k7yvz qsl.net>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 07:10:44 -0700


I purchased a 79 F150 and was told it had a 400 but turned out to be 351.

You need to loosen the door post and readjust it. Sound like a bit in and
down. Especially inward  if the plastic ring is worn out or gone.


----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Hartwell <hartwell vt.edu>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 3:48 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Two more 1979 F-150 Questions


> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hey guys and gals,
>
> I have two more questions about Dad's truck:
>
> 1.)  The guy we bought if from said it had a 400, and we are pretty sure,
but perhaps the blocks are similar to others, and a number could be a clue
to if it is or isn't.  The number on the bottom of the block, which I saw
when I replaced the starter, was:  D7TE-A-2B.  Would this indicate it is a
400?
>
> 2.)  The passenger side door is a little annoying.  The driver's side door
shuts with the push of a finger, and goes click...click, but the passenger
side door needs to be shut firmly to close completely, but usually only
clicks once and is a quarter inch from closing completely.  It seems as if
the latching mechanism is either a bit too far away from the bolt on the
frame, or the door is a little unsquare and the handle end is dropped a bit
and needs lifted up, or both.  Is there a hinge adjustment, or should I use
a block of wood and a jack at that end of the door to lift it up and let the
pressure of the jack and the weight of the truck tweak the hinges a bit?
>
> Thanks in advance for you help!
>
> Joe Hartwell
> 1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L
> 1968 Ford F100 360
> 1997 Harley Sportster 883
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 09:04:05 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Dana 60 differences / 2 Styles?




Bob wrote:
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Are there two different types of Dana 60's?  One with king pins, and another
> with a big ball looking thing (ball joint)?  I've seen two now that were
> said to be 60's.  If they are both 60's, what's the difference between them
> and the one with king pins....anything else?
> Just Curious
>

Ford started with ball joints in 92 (or there abouts). Otherwise, they
are the same as 86-91 D60 fronts. I think knuckles might be slightly
less beefey due to the fact you need more metal if you use kingpins.

                                    OX
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: [61-79-list]Re: 87 up 460's
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 09:39:42 -0500


I'm working on it right now, I'll send you the results as soon as I finish.
John
'77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's

>
> If you can make decent copy off a copy machine and mail it, I'll scan it
> and put it on my site for anyone to see.
>
>                                       OX



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Two more 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 08:49:06 -0800


> Hey guys and gals,
>
> I have two more questions about Dad's truck:
>
> 1.)  The guy we bought if from said it had a 400, and we are
> pretty sure, but perhaps the blocks are similar to others,
> and a number could be a clue to if it is or isn't.  The
> number on the bottom of the block, which I saw when I
> replaced the starter, was:  D7TE-A-2B.  Would this indicate
> it is a 400?

Don't know won't guess.

>
> 2.)  The passenger side door is a little annoying.  The
> driver's side door shuts with the push of a finger, and goes
> click...click, but the passenger side door needs to be shut
> firmly to close completely, but usually only clicks once and
> is a quarter inch from closing completely.  It seems as if
> the latching mechanism is either a bit too far away from the
> bolt on the frame, or the door is a little unsquare and the
> handle end is dropped a bit and needs lifted up, or both.  Is
> there a hinge adjustment, or should I use a block of wood and
> a jack at that end of the door to lift it up and let the
> pressure of the jack and the weight of the truck tweak the
> hinges a bit?
>

Check the door striker post.  The post that the latch inside the door grabbs
onto.  It should have a plastic sleeve on it.  It is easy to miss it.  Just
grab the post and see if the sleeve is there it should spin freely.  Usually
people don't know it is there and when it disintegrates and falls off the
door will rattle even when it is closed all the way.  The door moves like a
half-shut door.  So the owner figures something moved, repositions the
striker post and the door never quite shuts right again.  If there is
nothing on the post that will spin freely then the bushing is gone.  As far
as tweeking the door, I wouldn't do it.  Something else has given way and
you would be attacking the symptom and not the problem.  After fixing the
striker post the next easiest repair should be the door hinges.  I have
heard there are repair bushings to fix worn hinge pins.  I think Jumpin Ford
has more experience with those.

> Thanks in advance for you help!
>
> Joe Hartwell
> 1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L
> 1968 Ford F100 360
> 1997 Harley Sportster 883
>
>

Anytime.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 08:49:07 -0800


>
> >snip<
> > to move slightly but again, torque is a rough estimate to
> generate correct
> > bolt tension so who really cares?  If it doesn't move just
> assume it's
> > correct and move on, eh?
> >
> > As for torquing things hot, seems to me I read that the
> scientists that
> tell
> > God what to do have decided that was not a good idea?
> Certainly it is not
> a
> > good idea with aluminum heads or other parts.  As long as
> the bolts have
> the
> > same coefficient of linear expansion as the heads it
> shouldn't matter
> really
> > but when warm the bolt holes do expand a little so could
> allow a little
> more
> > movement but with studs I wouldn't expect much change??  The primary
> reason
> > for retorquing anything, hot or cold is that the gaskets
> will take a set
> and
> > often cause the bolt tension to lessen leaving the
> possibility for leaks
> > etc..
> >snip again<
>
> I guarantee that if you do not re-torque a head gasket as
> specified by the
> manufacturer you will be pulling that head in short order.
> Not only does the
> gasket set and leave the bolt loose, but head bolts don't
> have the same
> coefficient of expansion as the surrounding block and head
> material. Two
> different alloys can't have the exact same physical
> properties. They can be
> close, but always different. Cast iron is too brittle to make
> bolts from,
> aluminum is too soft. Some brands of engines require new
> bolts when you
> re-assemble. I think the Cadillac HT4100 is one such system.
> Very long head
> bolts. Aluminum and cast iron components. Very difficult to
> take one of
> those engines apart and put it back together correctly.
>
> --John LaGrone
>
Does this mean I can reuse thoes old head bolts out of the FE 360 I'm
working on?

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 12:17:17 EST
Subject: Re: Ford's dirty little secret ?


In a message dated 3/16/01 11:26:41 PM Pacific Standard Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:

>Eric, can you buy or borrow a Q-jet base gasket and see if it matches your
>intake?  The Carter Q-jet was a dead ringer for the Rochester.  But the Ford
>spreadbore ( 4150 ?) is a whole different animal, and not a good choice
>either. No aftermarket support at all.   Phil
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>How do I know if I've got the proprietary Ford spread bore pattern or a
>more standard spread bore pattern on my current 460 intake? I don't want to
>buy a spread bore carb only to have it not fit cause its the Ford design.

I just had to un-lurk for this one -- finally something I can help with,
maybe.  The Motorcraft "spreadbore" is the 4350.  It isn't really a
spreadbore from the standpoint that the mounting pattern is the same as a
Holley/Edelbrock squarebore.  But it isn't really a squarebore from the
standpoint that the secondaries are huge compared to the primaries.  If you
can put a base gasket from a Holley or Edelbrock on the mounting studs, but
the secondaries are too big, then its the Motorcraft 4350.

I also run one on my Jeep (hi George) and like it alot.  It was a basket case
when I got it even though it was obviously a fairly fresh re-man from Holley.
It took me a long time to get it working right cause there is little
accurate info commonly available.  I finally re-discovered Pony Carburetors <
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cybervillage.com/ponycarburetor/>.  I was stupid and should have
gone there first. They are a great source of odd parts and info.  Parts are
available -- even the odd ones.  Most are the same as the Motorcraft 4300 and
rebuild kits from Napa are about the same price as those for a 2100/2150.

If you have a spreadbore looking cast iron intake manifold off a 460 then
it's unlikely to fit anything other than (without the adapter George Selby
mentioned) the Motorcraft 4350.  I have one in my garage that I got for free.
I'm keeping it in case I ever find a 460 to swap into one of my Fords.

I like these carbs cause you can get them cheap and once you get past the
learning curve their spreadbore characteristics pay off with better potential
for decent mileage and a bigger kick in the pants when the secondaries are
fully open -- compared to a typical squarebore.


Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

------------------------------

From: "Tim G" <oldfords blazenetme.net>
Subject: Re: Tonneau/DuraSpark/Torquing
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 12:19:46 -0500


Thanks for the tonneau link, Phil. I downloaded the color flyer you mentioned in .pdf format
from their site. Believe it or not, I've checked numerous local tonneau & cap dealers & they've
checked at least 12 manufacturers & distributors without finding any that specifically list
Fords older than 73, and many don't go back further than 78. Of course removing a few from the
boxes & measuring would probly produce one that would fit.

Looks like I'm going to stick with the one from LMC Truck. Mostly 'cuz I want the kind that
wraps around the rolled lip of the flareside bed.

Planning to drive the Screaming Yellow Zonker ('66 F100 428) to Pigeon Forge this year ('bout
1075 mi) & want the tonneau to give me some more undercover stowage. If there's a gas crisis
this summer, it'll be because of that trip!

Finally getting a few days of sun and over 40 degrees. I'm about 35 miles further up the coast
of Maine from poster TomH.

My 2 cents on a couple other recent subjects:

I've never had a Duraspark box quit, altho I do keep spares on hand. The newer EEC-IV ones that
mount on the distributor, on the other hand, always quit at the worst possible time. It pays to
keep one in the glove box, along with the tools to change it.

Although it's interesting to know all the theories behind bolt retorquing, all I've ever done is
torque clean lightly lubed bolts on assembly, then run for a day or 2 and retorque in normal
sequence without loosening. Never blown any head gaskets with that procedure. But then again, I
only do my own stuff, so we're not talking about a really large number of jobs.

TimG

www.blazenetme.net/~oldfords This site was on a different provider 2 yrs ago when I was on this
list for a little while. I don't get it updated as often as I should, but some of it is
reasonably up to date. Always something else to do.

1966 F100 Short Flare Custom Cab 428 Screaming Yellow Zonker
1987 F150 Custom 4.9 4x4
1955 Mainline 289 perpetual project
1996 Crown Vic Police
1987 Mustang LX 2.3
1981 Mustang 2.3


> From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
> Subject: Tonneau covers for Classics
> Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 09:50:18 -0500
>
>
> Steve / LIST, here's the name of that place that makes "flush fit" hard and
> soft bed covers for late model as well as "classic" trucks. It's called
> Checkmate, it's in Benton, KY. They have a web site address too , but I
> haven't seen it. < www.checkerpro.com >  They'll send this little color
> flyer out for free. ( 800-944-9319 )  They've got fixed and hinged covers in
> both fiberglass and soft, ranging in cost from $169.00 to $389.00.
>      They will also build "custom" sizes for beds with sleepers or tool
> boxes. The vinyl covers come in different colors and they also make some
> from aluminum treadplate.
>       I have no affiliation with them, but this is the only place I could
> find that catered to "our" needs.    Good luck, Phil  ( 64 F-100
> PharfrÜmfinisht )
>
> From: oldfords63 juno.com
> Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 19:41:47 -0500
> Subject: Re: Tonneau covers for Classics II
>
>
> I meant Tim, Sorry.
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~





------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 11:56:31 -0600
From: Ron Martens <martens flash.net>
Subject: Re: 289/302 four barrel intake


I may be interested, first how much for the cast iron & where are you
located? shipping may be out of sight.

JJJJJGRANT aol.com wrote:

> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> seems like i remember someone looking for a cast iron 289/302 four barrell
> intake, i am putting an aluminum intake on my mustang, and would like to sell
> the factory intake. who ever it was let me know if you are interested, also
> have an aluminum one to sale.
>
> thanks, jeff
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject:  Tonneau cover sources
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 14:34:36 -0500


Sure thing Tim !  I'll keep my eyes peeled for your "Yellow Zonker" when I
get there.
Look for me too....I'll be the guy with the long face, cause my
"Pile-0-Parts" is at home !!
Later, Phil  64 F-100
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thanks for the tonneau link, Phil. I downloaded the color flyer you
mentioned from their site............
Planning to drive the Screaming Yellow Zonker to Pigeon Forge this
year....OPEC is pleased !

------------------------------

From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 14:26:41 -0600


> Does this mean I can reuse thoes old head bolts out of the FE 360 I'm
> working on?
>
> Tom H.

As a practical matter I would say yes they are OK to reuse. The exception
would be if the engine has been run hot, run a bunch at high rpm like
racing, or in some other manner been abused to the extreme or damaged. In
any of those cases I would probably hunt for another block anyway. The same
would hold true for any typical cast iron block application with cast iron
valve-in-head configuration, FE or other.

My dad once put a gmc back together with some scoring that resulted after a
valve head had broken off at about 2500 rpm. I wouldn't have done that on an
engine I knew I was going to keep. He wouldn't have either.

--John LaGrone
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 16:04:42 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: ALL NEW FORD HAVEN - A community for enthusiasts o


Ford Truck Enthusiasts has created Ford Haven.  Ford Haven
is a community for Enthusiasts of Ford Family Vehicles.

Many new features are planned an will be brought online
in the next couple weeks.

Also, the databases from Ford Truck Enthusiasts and Ford
Haven are merged.  If you're registered on FTE, you're
automatically registered on Ford Haven and visa versa!
If you're a current FTE message board user, just login
on Ford Haven with your existing user id and password.

Check it out:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboards.cgi

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 16:08:36 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: OOPS.. WRONG URL -- ALL NEW FORD HAVEN - A communi


The URL in the previous post should be:

http://www.ford-trucks.comhttp://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 18:05:30 -0500
From: Gary Rubendall <gsruben infocom.com>
Subject: 1972 F100



If anyone is interested,there is a '72 close to me that is for sale. The
paint on the window says $350.00. The sign that fell on the floor says
'best offer'. It's suppose to have a good running 390 in it w/auto
trans. If you might be interested contact me off list and I'll find out
more.
Garyr
gsruben infocom.com

The truck is pretty well shot. I live in east central Indiana almost to
the Ohio line.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 18:15:46 -0500
From: Gary Rubendall <gsruben infocom.com>
Subject: balance


To Gary (bbb) and the others who told me to check for frame cracks and
etc.etc. I spent about 2 hours today crawling under the truck. (Sunday).
It finally quit raining and snowing and got up to almost 50 degrees
today. Didn't find anything, so I guess the automatic is going in the
last part of this week. Someone ask me if I had a one piece or two piece
rear main seal and as usual it escaped my brain. I have a two piece
seal. The part number on the flywheel starts with E0 which is suppose to
be at least one of the correct ones.
I had a guy ask me if I had a 255. Had never heard of one and I only
found one mention of it in the archives on FTE site. I don't suppose I
have confused that. Does anyone know anything about a 255. I read that
they came out in 80-81 and were for the small cars but I have no idea
where this motor came from before it was put in this truck.
Have a good'un.
Garyr

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 19:11:27 -0800


The only bolts I know of you can't re-use are for aluminum heads or aircraft
applications.  If I were spending a little cash on an engine I would go with
studs rather than bolts if you decide to get new ones.

To add to the torque debate (HeHeHeHe :-))))) Studs are the best choice,
hands down, if you want perfection :-)  They also have other advantages:

Ever try to put a head on and have the gasket move on you?
Ever try to put on a front cover and have the gasket fall off in the dirt?
Ever try to put on valve covers and have the gaskets fall out of place in
the back where you can't see it?
Ever try to re-install a pan in the truck and have the gaskets falling all
over the place?
Ever try to install a fuel pump and have the gasket fall out?

Some applications will not allow studs such as with certain fuel pumps due
to obsticles to getting the pump on the studs etc. but where you can use
them, studs eliminate all these issues as well as allowing for better torque
consistency.  One place I will never use bolts again is when installing
headers.  I will use studs in this application as well as just for exhaust
manifolds from now on.  Some of the intake bolts can be replace with studs
as well to aid in locating the gaskets etc..  Now, if you use self locking
nuts the added resistance to turning............:-)))

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Does this mean I can reuse thoes old head bolts out of the FE 360 I'm
> working on?
>
> Tom H.


------------------------------

From: "Stevel" <canzus seanet.com>
Subject: Re: 87 up 460's
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 19:50:37 -0800



----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Schnakenberg <greg mail.dntcj.ro>

> Dave, I'd be VERY interested to see that article.

You must be new, compared to Sleddog and I, Kevin and I
had a "conversation" going for a couple of weeks in early 98(?)
about that very article, which was in Super Ford, don't recall
the issue, which I was refering to in a post a month or so ago
between the OX-man and myself, I had mistaken the casting year
as an E5TE, which should have been an E7TE casting, you know
what happens with age, right?

And a question to the OX, do you know of anyone who has fuel
injected a 292?? The problem with this engine is that the intake ports
are stacked, and there's no parts support for injection...


Steve & the (SWMBO) Rockette
Various FoMoCo products, and an MG-B-GT



------------------------------

From: "Stevel" <canzus seanet.com>
Subject: Re: balance
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 19:51:05 -0800



----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Rubendall <gsruben infocom.com>

> I had a guy ask me if I had a 255. Had never heard of one and I only
> found one mention of it in the archives on FTE site. I don't suppose I
> have confused that. Does anyone know anything about a 255. I read that
> they came out in 80-81 and were for the small cars but I have no idea
> where this motor came from before it was put in this truck.

The 255 was a stop gap measure in the early 80's, It was used
in Fox bodied cars, ie; Mustangs, Capris, Futuras and T-Birds,
not exactly a preformance engine by any stretch of the imagination,
all were 2 BBL carbed, and the engine died after a couple of model
years.

Steve & the (SWMBO)Rockette
all kinds of Ford Products, and an MG-B-GT





------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 22:00:19 -0600

I agree, the studs for the headers on my 390 work quite nicely.


Garrett Nelson
www.1966ford.com

 ----- Original Message -----
 From: GaryBBB
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 9:11 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs


 ----------------------------------------------------------
 Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
 touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
 http://www.motorhaven.com/
 ----------------------------------------------------------

 The only bolts I know of you can't re-use are for aluminum heads or aircraft
 applications.  If I were spending a little cash on an engine I would go with
 studs rather than bolts if you decide to get new ones.

 To add to the torque debate (HeHeHeHe :-))))) Studs are the best choice,
 hands down, if you want perfection :-)  They also have other advantages:

 Ever try to put a head on and have the gasket move on you?
 Ever try to put on a front cover and have the gasket fall off in the dirt?
 Ever try to put on valve covers and have the gaskets fall out of place in
 the back where you can't see it?
 Ever try to re-install a pan in the truck and have the gaskets falling all
 over the place?
 Ever try to install a fuel pump and have the gasket fall out?

 Some applications will not allow studs such as with certain fuel pumps due
 to obsticles to getting the pump on the studs etc. but where you can use
 them, studs eliminate all these issues as well as allowing for better torque
 consistency.  One place I will never use bolts again is when installing
 headers.  I will use studs in this application as well as just for exhaust
 manifolds from now on.  Some of the intake bolts can be replace with studs ....


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