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Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 07:35:36 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #84
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Thu, 15 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 084

In This Issue:
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Carb replacement (take 3)
Re: Carb replacement (take 3)
Slightly OT, '67 Cougar wiring diagram
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Question on Welders
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Tonneau covers
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Slightly OT, '67 Cougar wiring diagram
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Question on Welders
460
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
C6 tailhousings
Re: C6 tailhousings
Re: 460
Re: Question on Welders
Re: power window kits
Re: Carb replacement (take 3)
Re: Good Samaratins
vibrating 302's

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:19:57 -0800


You are absolutely correct, I am talking about "Fumes".  I think you will
find that Kerosene is simply less refined than fuel oil but all will burn
about the same and the fumes are the problem.  Fuel oil, diesel oil and
kerosene will vaporize almost as easily as gasoline but the vapors are
heavier which makes them less obtrusive and thus more dangerous because
people don't take any precautions with them like they do with gasoline.  You
can believe what you like in this regard but I've seen and heard of too many
incidents where your assumptions are proved wrong, deadly wrong.  Have you
ever seen a "Safe" oil burner blow up?  I have, many times.  Fortunately the
heat exchanger on these is pretty stout and it usually blows the stack off
without any damage but that is also under very careful control to prevent a
"Serious" explosion.  Under the right conditions it could be very serious.

Parts cleaners which use Mineral Spirits have lead safety bolts to allow the
lid to slam down in case of fire and hopefully put it out before any serious
damage is done so the industry is admitting to the flamability of this
material but it is also very well known that it is safer than gasoline and
also safer than Kerosene or fuel oil, otherwise they would be using kerosene
or fuel oil.  There is certainly no advantage in the smell department and
fuel oil actually cleans better in most cases AFAIK so there is no other
real advantage to using Mineral Spirits over Fuel oil.  I paid $120 for 55
gal of mineral spirits which is the very material industry and OSHA
recommend for parts washers so the cost is not an advantage either.

I must appologize for the bible quote.  I should not have used quotes since
it is a bible "Principle", not a direct quote.  We sometimes get in the bad
habit of using principles for quotes when discussing such things but the
principle is clearly stated at Romans 9:15,16 as well as several others.
I'll be more careful in the future :-)

The "Ears" part was a "Pun" but the scripture at Matthew 4:9 uses "Listen"
instead of "hear" so is essentially correct in any case :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> You are talking about fumes only and not the liquid its self. I
>
> Where is this located at in the Bible? I would like to read it
> for myself I
> am not saying that it is not there just interested that's all.


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:44:31 -0800

Mrs. Boling,

In addition to being grammatically incorrect , I find this comment quite
offensive. I don't know of one person on this list, male or female, who
thinks they know everything and I for one have personally saved quite a few
hours and dollars as a direct result of the advice gained on this list. I
hope that if you plan to continue to post on this list you'll refrain from
this type of sarcasm in the future. It does nothing but create bad feelings.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 3:07 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick



> This is from a women, and I though you guys knew every thing and to
believe
> some of you are willing to pay for this advise!
> Mrs. Boling




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:08:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Carb replacement (take 3)


Well, I still have not decided what carb I should put on my F-350.  I've
decided that the stock one was just too shot to rebuild and I don't know
whether I want to replace it with another Holley or whether I should go
for some other type/brand of replacement.  Do you all have any
suggestions?

I contacted Holley and they of course recommended they're top of the line
street avenger.  Too much $$$ for me.

I'd like to use this truck off-road a bit and I know the quadrajet is
considered to be the best off-camber carb but does anyone know of a way to
get a QJ that would work with my 460/C6 combo in the '79 F-350?  It should
also have electric choke since it will be used on the street at times and
I've had problems in the past remembering to use the manual choke
correctly.  :-(  (Dohhh!)

I'm not real interested in Carter/Edelbrock style at this point since they
seen to be the worst off-camber.  How bad/good is a typical Holley
off-road?

Any other suggestions/information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty"

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Shelley Batty" <shelba molalla.net>
Subject: Re: Carb replacement (take 3)
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:07:48 -0800


The newest issue of Four Wheeler magazine (just got mine in the mail
yesterday) has an article comparing three different carbs, a Holley, an
Edelbroc, and a Quadra Jet both on and off road.  I just glanced at the
article, but it may be worth a read if you are getting ready to buy a carb.

Thom Batty

----------------------------------------------------------

Well, I still have not decided what carb I should put on my F-350.  I've
decided that the stock one was just too shot to rebuild and I don't know
whether I want to replace it with another Holley or whether I should go
for some other type/brand of replacement.  Do you all have any
suggestions?

I contacted Holley and they of course recommended they're top of the line
street avenger.  Too much $$$ for me.

I'd like to use this truck off-road a bit and I know the quadrajet is
considered to be the best off-camber carb but does anyone know of a way to
get a QJ that would work with my 460/C6 combo in the '79 F-350?  It should
also have electric choke since it will be used on the street at times and
I've had problems in the past remembering to use the manual choke
correctly.  :-(  (Dohhh!)

I'm not real interested in Carter/Edelbrock style at this point since they
seen to be the worst off-camber.  How bad/good is a typical Holley
off-road?

Any other suggestions/information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty"

__________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Slightly OT, '67 Cougar wiring diagram
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 11:29:09 -0800


Anyone know where I can find one?

FTE content: I drove my '77 E150 to work today.




------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 14:57:52 EST
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40


Ok, I can see what could happen with different liquids and different size
needles. So it would make sense to have a locked up engine with most any
fluids especially in a newer engine. Thanks for explaining this.
Rollie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 15:20:27 -0500
From: "John" <69crewcab delnet.nasdsl.com>
Subject: Question on Welders


Group
sorry if this topic was brought up before,

Can I use a Flux Cored Mig welder to weld up Body panels??Mostly a cab corner, some floors
and cab mounts.. I have access to a Flux cored welder at work so its readilly available.
Or should i go the true mig(gas) welding way??Also if flux core is ok is there alot of
slag and work to do after completing the welds??


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 14:23:19 -0800


I'm not offended Bill.  I guess we all have our personal opinions :-)  I
agree that sarcasm is not really a good idea.  I nearly used some myself in
responding to this and had to re-think my purpose here.  Let me state my
purpose on this list:

I am trying to help others by supplying my own experiences and am very
carefull to only comment on things I feel I have some expertise in.  In
spite of my best efforts, however, I still make mistakes and in the process
someone more knowledgeable than myself corrects me which benefits the group
and also provides the other aspect of my interest in this list; I learn too
:-))  All these things are positive as long as "Feelings" don't get too
serious and muddle things up.

When I see a post that is encouraging people to do something I consider
dangerous I speak up and that sometimes hurts some feelings but I feel
responsible to make a comment in that case.  If I'm wrong the consensus of
the group will bear it out and I will feel no shame for making the effort
:-))  Peace! Brothers and Sisters :-))

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> hope that if you plan to continue to post on this list you'll refrain from
> this type of sarcasm in the future. It does nothing but create
> bad feelings.
>
> > This is from a women, and I though you guys knew every thing and to
> believe
> > some of you are willing to pay for this advise!
> > Mrs. Boling


------------------------------

From: "Tim G" <oldfords blazenetme.net>
Subject: Tonneau covers
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 15:30:39 -0500


Does anybody know what brand the tonneau cover is that LMC has in their current catalog (FB-9
cat) at the bottom of page 48? It's the velcro stepside shortbed one for 51-72. I'd like to look
at one locally before ordering.

Called LMC & the nice girl said she couldn't find out, that I'd find out when I received it.
Called Covercraft, thinking it might be one of theirs, but they don't go any further back than
'78.

If anybody knows of any other brands that would custom fit my '66 F-100 short step, please
advise. I don't want one that hinges in the front, prefer the velcro.

Regards to all my fellow Ford lovers,
TimG

1966 F-100 w/428 C6
1987 F-150 4x4
1987 Mustang LX
1981 Mustang
1996 Crown Vic Police


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:44:54 -0800

Hey I'm guilty of using sarcasm on this list myself on occasion but it's
usually reserved for people who have taken the position that they DO know
everything...

In my view the comment she made was uncalled for and arrogant as well as
being sarcastic. Just my NSHO...

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 2:23 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick


> I'm not offended Bill.  I guess we all have our personal opinions :-)  I
> agree that sarcasm is not really a good idea.  I nearly used some myself
in
> responding to this and had to re-think my purpose here.  Let me state my
> purpose on this list:

<snip>




------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:58:20 -0500


> Mrs. Boling
> > Gentlemen, Diesel is very flammable and the fumes are very combustible
and
> > will cause serious explosion under the right conditions.
==================================================
IF diesel fuel is so flammable why do you need about 14 to 1 compression to
burn it
i haul bulk commodities and go thru classes every year for this mineral
spirits is much more explosive than diesel fuel is
even the MSDS sheets on mineral spirits say the same thing as well as the
2001 hazardous response guide
just about anytime you see where diesel fuel has blown up it got its
ignition from gasoline or was heated up
SO i guess the answer would be if you want to clean parts use non caustic
oven cleaner then it wont blow up at least and will remove the grease
ME I use diesel fuel mixed with XYLOL and have a tub of it in my garage now
thats been there for better than 4 yrs and heat the garage with a wood stove
so it must not be too explosive or it would have went off by now i would
think
gordon
         i dont need friends to help me move bodies



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:58:33 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Slightly OT, '67 Cougar wiring diagram



>
>Anyone know where I can find one?
>
>FTE content: I drove my '77 E150 to work today.

Call FTE at 1-877-399-6417.  We have them.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:23:20 -0800


Diesel fuel requires 14:1 (minimum) compression to burn because there is no
other ignition source but heat generated by compression.  It has special
additives in it to improve it's "autoignition" properties, I believe called
the "Cetane" rating.  If it were run in a low compression gas engine it
would detonate and destroy the engine so should I then assume that this
means it is "More" flamable, rather than less?  Obvoiously there are other
factors at work here.

This is interesting Information.  Perhaps it bears a little research.  I
don't subscribe to every whim of OSHA so don't consider them an "Expert"
opinion by any means but they do usually base their "Assumptions" on some
kind of accumulated data so it has some foundation at least.  Usually it's
their implementation that really stinks, not the basis for their concern so
when they have a concern I usually at least look at it :-)  AFAIK, Safety
Kleen or mineral spirits is still their recommendation?

Industry typically will use the cheapest means to an end that they can slip
past the Feds so, again, I have to wonder why they don't use diesel fuel for
parts cleaning if everything you say is true and there are MSDS's out there
to point to this.  It should be simple enough to get the real goods on this
on the net and I will make it my personal project to clear this up :-)

Again, it may turn out that I am wrong but by pushing the issue more info
will come to light and that, after all, is what we like about the list, eh?
If we hadn't continued to keep it lit up, the MSDS thing would never have
been mentioned and that got my attention :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> IF diesel fuel is so flammable why do you need about 14 to 1
> compression to
> burn it

> i haul bulk commodities and go thru classes every year for this mineral
> spirits is much more explosive than diesel fuel is
> even the MSDS sheets on mineral spirits say the same thing as well as the
> 2001 hazardous response guide


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 17:30:44 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick


Any of the olefins(I think) are fine to clean parts with as long
as they do not get atomized (what an injector does).  Of course
if there is a fire source near by then there is a problem.   I use
kerosene a little lighter than diesel and add Gunk SC3 which aids in
cleaning.    In my parts cleaner I use stuff called agetine (sp)
that works pretty well.   I was happy to see the post that Gunk SC3
was still available, I am going to search the stores this weekend.

At 12:01 PM 3/13/01 -0800, Bill Deacon wrote:
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel fuel. It cleans
>good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard. Am I at great
>risk of fire? I probably should have asked first. FTE content?---none, but I
>think safety does take precedence here---Thanks! Bill
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 18:40:08 EST
Subject: Re: Question on Welders


I have very little experience in this area and I'm sure someone else could be
of more help to you, but here goes anyway....

You can weld sheet metal with flux cored wire in a wire welder (REAL metal,
that is).  You'll need to check you charts and see what sizes of wire are
compatible with the welder.  In most cases, you'll have to buy a gun liner
and tips to match your wire.  The flux cored wire will leave some slag but it
is manageable.

MIG welding is by far the best way to go.  With the gas, you'll have lower
temperatures (less warpage) and very little clean-up.  The only real drawback
is that you have to be in relatively still air so that the shielding gas does
not blow away.  That won't be a problem if you are doing the work in a shop
or on a still day.

If the welder you will be using is MIG compatible, it is well worth the cost
of gas to go with the MIG (MHO).  I just got a hobart Handler 175 to do my
work with, and while I have not yet sprung for a bottle, I will.  My neighbor
has the identical welder and I am impressed with the results.

NAte

In a message dated 3/15/01 2:13:41 PM Central Standard Time,
69crewcab delnet.nasdsl.com writes:

<< Group
sorry if this topic was brought up before,

Can I use a Flux Cored Mig welder to weld up Body panels??Mostly a cab
corner, some floors
and cab mounts.. I have access to a Flux cored welder at work so its
readilly available.
Or should i go the true mig(gas) welding way??Also if flux core is ok is
there alot of
slag and work to do after completing the welds?? >>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 19:37:06 -0700
From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 460


I'm looking for a late 60's to mid 70's 460 and C-6 to go in my 74 F350
Super Camper Special, that I tow a 14,000lb 5th wheel with.  I'm heading
to the junk-yard this weekend, (I want a torque monster) I'm looking
something to rebuild and beef up so what years should I look for and out
of what models and which should I stay away from?  TIA


William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 21:13:54 -0800


I got a nice web site on MSDS's:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hazard.com/msds/

and it allows you to send the document to yourself and save it as a doc and
print it out if you wish.  Over the next few days I will be collecting some
data on this subject from this and, perhaps, other sites as well.  The
information here is very complete so the answer should be there somewhere
:-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Any of the olefins(I think) are fine to clean parts with as long
> as they do not get atomized (what an injector does).  Of course
> if there is a fire source near by then there is a problem.   I use
> kerosene a little lighter than diesel and add Gunk SC3 which aids in
> cleaning.    In my parts cleaner I use stuff called agetine (sp)
> that works pretty well.   I was happy to see the post that Gunk SC3
> was still available, I am going to search the stores this weekend.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: C6 tailhousings
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 21:30:55 -0600

Jeff writes:  >>Were the C6 tail housings different between cars and trucks??<<

NO!!!  On 2wd trucks and cars they are the same.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 22:36:54 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: C6 tailhousings


Except for Cobra Jet cars!  They were made from Cast Iron
and not Aluminum.

Bill


At 09:30 PM 3/15/01 -0600, Azie L. Magnusson wrote:
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Jeff writes:  >>Were the C6 tail housings different between cars and
>trucks??<<
>
>NO!!!  On 2wd trucks and cars they are the same.
>
>Azie Magnusson
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 460
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 21:55:24 -0800


Well, I have a 70 in my 78 pickup and like it a lot.  The RV cam does
exactly what RV cams are supposed to do, run tough at low rpms but it limits
what you can do at the top, severely in my case at least.   A dual pattern
cam in the 260-280 range should be a vast improvement over what I have right
now.  BTW, I run the cheapest gas out there it runs fine on it with stock
pattern dished pistons.  Regardless of what year heads you get, have someone
remove the bumps in the exhaust ports.  I've been told you can pick up an
"Easy" 25 hp even if you do a sloppy job of it.  That's on my list for the
next build.  If you match the ports, leave the heads larger than the
manifold in case of slight misalignment for better flow.

If I had it to do over again I would use flat top pistons (which were not
available at the time I built this one) and a moderate torque cam like above
with about a .550 lift or so up to about .600 which may require special
springs at that lift.  I know you can go up to about .550 with no trouble,
mine is .520.  I would also not use the Holley carb (ever again) but the
Edlebrock or Carter will fit the Ford square bore manifold and are better
choices in the 750 range IMNSHO.

If you happen to get the one (most common) with the Ford pattern spread bore
you will have no after market choices, only the stock carb will work with
that manifold.  I happen to like the ford spread bore but it is not tuneable
for such things as headers since the jets are not replaceable or there are
no alternatives if they are.

Use the truck passenger side manifold and you can use a cheap Walker 2 into
1 exhaust for good low end torque and decent top end as well.  They are $193
from Ford last I checked and make installations of the exhaust MUCH easier.
ALL pre-bent exhaust systems you can buy are made for this manifold.  Car
systems won't match up with the frame parts very well and will have to be
modified so as long as you have to buy one anyway, why not get one that
bolts right up right out of the box.  If you plan to use headers some day,
why not do it right now so you don't have to waste money later?

If you are just using it as a truck and not a drag racer, use cast pistons.
They're cheaper and work fine for that application.  Pay attention to the
year.....78/79 they change to Detroit balance and flywheels/flexplates and
dampers won't interchange with earlier ones so don't mix them.

Use a stock duraspark dizzy with stock springs and settings unless you are
an expert on curving them.  I actually got a points version from a 68 and
used the mechanical advance in that one with duraspark parts to get a good
performing engine.  Don't try to play with the springs or tabs, you will be
sorry......

If you have money left over for head work, put in the larger size stock
valves and just open up the seats to match.  Some of these heads had some
really small valves in them.  If you have to open the seat very much it may
be better to just have new seats installed for the larger valves.  I'm not
sure how far you can go before losing the hardness in the seat.  Maybe
someone has some experience with this?

In my reading it appears that the two most helpfull things you can do to an
engine to make it strong on the bottom is enlarge the valves and add some
lift to the cam for better low rpm filling.  All the suggestions I've made
above are based on this theory and are the basis of my next 460 build.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I'm looking for a late 60's to mid 70's 460 and C-6 to go in my 74 F350
> Super Camper Special, that I tow a 14,000lb 5th wheel with.  I'm heading
> to the junk-yard this weekend, (I want a torque monster) I'm looking
> something to rebuild and beef up so what years should I look for and out
> of what models and which should I stay away from?  TIA
>
>
> William (Tony) Whited


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Question on Welders
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 22:09:31 -0600

IMO it is definitely worth it to go to a true MIG setup over flux-core. I'm glad I did... found a great deal on one too.


Garrett Nelson
www.1966ford.com

 ----- Original Message -----
 From: John
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 2:20 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Question on Welders


 ----------------------------------------------------------
 Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
 touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
 http://www.motorhaven.com/
 ----------------------------------------------------------

 Group
 sorry if this topic was brought up before,

 Can I use a Flux Cored Mig welder to weld up Body panels??Mostly a cab corner, some floors
 and cab mounts.. I have access to a Flux cored welder at work so its readilly available.
 Or should i go the true mig(gas) welding way??Also if flux core is ok is there alot of
 slag and work to do after completing the welds??




------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: power window kits
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 04:14:43


I know I'm a couple days late, and for that I apologize (been out of town),
but I have something to add to this topic.  A while back I ran across a kit
for power windows that I'm impressed with and would like to get (it's added
to my very long list).  I have not used them, just saw them in the catalog.

They are in Summit racing - Electric-Life brand - when I checked a couple
months ago they carried 73-79 F series.  They are a direct bolt in swap, the
picture shows regulators with motor, just like factory power windows.  Not
one of those 'hokey' add-on kits like in LMC truck (just my opinion - no
offense).  The kits are about $250 for both doors, and you can pick the
style of switches you want.  This would give you power windows that bolt in
with new regulators, sounds good to me...

Just a thought.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Carb replacement (take 3)
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 23:55:18 -0500


stick a 650 Holley on it and it will work just fine .
-----Original Message-----
From: Shelley Batty <shelba molalla.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, March 15, 2001 12:24 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Carb replacement (take 3)


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>The newest issue of Four Wheeler magazine (just got mine in the mail
>yesterday) has an article comparing three different carbs, a Holley, an
>Edelbroc, and a Quadra Jet both on and off road.  I just glanced at the
>article, but it may be worth a read if you are getting ready to buy a carb.
>
>Thom Batty
>
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Well, I still have not decided what carb I should put on my F-350.  I've
>decided that the stock one was just too shot to rebuild and I don't know
>whether I want to replace it with another Holley or whether I should go
>for some other type/brand of replacement.  Do you all have any
>suggestions?
>
>I contacted Holley and they of course recommended they're top of the line
>street avenger.  Too much $$$ for me.
>
>I'd like to use this truck off-road a bit and I know the quadrajet is
>considered to be the best off-camber carb but does anyone know of a way to
>get a QJ that would work with my 460/C6 combo in the '79 F-350?  It should
>also have electric choke since it will be used on the street at times and
>I've had problems in the past remembering to use the manual choke
>correctly.  :-(  (Dohhh!)
>
>I'm not real interested in Carter/Edelbrock style at this point since they
>seen to be the worst off-camber.  How bad/good is a typical Holley
>off-road?
>
>Any other suggestions/information would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Eric Finn
>'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress)
>'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
>'95 Mustang GT "Beauty"
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Keith" <a2jkeith gci.net>
Subject: Re: Good Samaratins
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 22:49:22 -0900


well, today I have had the distinct "honor" of working on a Chevrolet(Chews
Heads Eats Valves Races Only Little Electric Trains) in the name of
friendship. I tell ya, it was a most disgruteling thing, but let me tell ya.
Working on a doggone 92 Blazer, has really made me appreciate the ease of
working on my 71 F250. The room I have to move around(high boy) and the
simplicity of the wrench turning. My buddy called and told me a shop was
trying to charge him $700.00+ to change out a fuel pump. Granted it is an in
tank pump but ya know, I really dislike the way that all these shops are
really taking advantage of people. They seem to look for the average joe,
who appears to be a sucker, and try to take them for a ride. Well, tell ya
what, I have vented enough but let me tell ya something, Take time to help
people out with their rigs, ofton times it will repay you in ways that you
cant imagine. And a special thanks to Eric Marquez and Matt Schumacher
(Schu) for all your help with my truck in the past, (and for that to come,
hehehe, hint hint hint) No really guys, I appreciate all the help I get from
people on this list, you guys are lifesavers.
Keith&Clifford
71F250 4x4


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 06:21:06 -0500
From: Gary Rubendall <gsruben infocom.com>
Subject: vibrating 302's



Darrell & Tweety,
I would venture a guess and say that Tweety already knows the answer to
this problem. Do you think you could get your truck to "spill the beans"
Darrell? The second motor that was in this truck came out of a 1988 F150
4X4. The entire motor from the fanblade back to the flywheel was
replaced and it still had the shakes. At that time I had homemade mounts
in it which made the engine sit at a very odd angle, both up and down
and side to side (found this out later). I thought this odd angle was
the cause but it still would shake sitting in the driveway. Anyway, I
bought real mounts for it and lowered the engine down where it should
be. It lined up with the driveline like it should and I thought "I'll be
driving this truck in a day or so." Sure was a good joke on me.
The 1980 that was originally in it is back in there now. The things I
have changed on it are the crank, flywheel and harmonic balancer. Last
night I did a search on the small block engine list at FTE.com and read
a post by a guy that says there are two types of cranks and they should
not be mixed between the early and later 302 blocks. 302's are certainly
strange engines because out of 4 different people there are 4 ideas of
when early and late models start and stop. Parts stores have blank
spaces in their books from '79 to '81 and a lot of things for '80 aren't
even listed.
I believe I have early model block,pistons and heads(1980) and late
model crank,harmonic balancer and flywheel(1986). Maybe you just can't
mix those things. Are the bigger Ford engines that way?
This truck was really cobbled when I bought it but I drove it for about
6 months with no vibration. Everything was 1980 at that time. I was
tempted to put a 351W in it just to see if everything would quiet down
but my '78 had one and the 10mpg just killed me. I was hoping for a ....


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