61-79-list Digest V2001 #83

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61-79-list Digest Wed, 14 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 083

In This Issue:
Re: love SWMBO
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: Seized engine
ANybody want a free Frame/Axle
Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies
Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: vibrating 302's
Re: vibrating 302's
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick
Re: 9" traction-loc clutches/steels
Re: balance
budget traction lock
Re: budget traction lock
Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick
Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies
Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies
Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies
Re: budget traction lock
Parts for budget posi unit.
Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick
Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther

alldata.com>
Subject: Re: love SWMBO
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:58:14 -0800

Neither did I, John. I also thought my story was kind of amusing as well.
My ex and I still laugh about it...

-----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone [mailto:jlagrone

ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 6:15 AM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: love SWMBO

> That must be a girl thing ....Daughter does the same thing about once a
month
> ... Now I talk her thru it on the phone ...

I apologize to the ladies in FTE land. I never intended to start a SWMBO
bashing contest. I always thought the story was kind of funny and SWMBO
relates it herself from time to time. I have pulled plenty of boners of my
own. The great big spot of primer on my driver's door is testimony to that
fact...

BTW, last Friday was our 25th wedding anniversary. I guess I'll keep her at
least until the honeymoon is over. ;-)

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 10:30:02 -0600
Subject: Re: love SWMBO
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone

ford-trucks.com>

> Neither did I, John. I also thought my story was kind of amusing as well.
> My ex and I still laugh about it...

It so easy for people to get the wrong impression, I just wanted to keep
things straight. ;-)

-- John
jlagrone

aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 13:04:25 EST
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40

In a message dated 03/14/2001 10:51:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Tom.Hogan

kla-tencor.com writes:

<< Theoretically that may be right but the liquid would leak by sooo slowly it
might take a couple of months to get 1 revolution. >>

Being that slow then, an engine appears locked up by mechanical failure
(something is broken). I have a book with a picture of a cylinder head with a
rag hanging out of an intake valve. That would lock up an engine because the
rag is not going to compress but just so much. I had to laugh when I saw
this. I am sure other things like nuts and bolts are capable of the same
results. I just never realized that fluids are capable of locking up an
engine since there is room for air to escape. I suppose I thought of it a
little like a syringe shooting a liquid out through that tiny needle.

Rollie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 13:41:27 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4

earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Seized engine

At 11:53 AM 3/14/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Starters have been known to "lock" and remain engaged.
>This would cause the symptoms you are encountering. Might want to
>remove the starter and see if it will rotate, also!!

GM starters sometimes need shims between the starter and the engine block
in order to have enough clearance between the flywheel and starter to spin.

George Selby
70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4

earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com

------------------------------

From: "John" <69crewcab

delnet.nasdsl.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 101 14:17:56 EST
Subject: ANybody want a free Frame/Axle

Anybody
in the PA,NJ area looking for a 67-72 4x4 F-100 Frame
I'm giving mine away with a dana 60 with 3.55's in it.
Come take it before the crusher does

------------------------------

From: "NP 540" <np540

hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 20:25:15

>
>From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
>Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 18:06:12 EST
>Subject: Re: Slow starting MOPARS
>
>In a message dated 3/13/2001 2:42:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>maggie11

HiWAAY.net writes:
>
>
> > I might also add that the MOPARS we are speaking of use gear reduction
> > starters,
> > so the engine is not really turning as fast as a direct drive one would
> > !!!! More room
> > for the less vacuum theory.. Right???
> >
> > Azie Magnusson
> > Ardmore, Al.
> >
> >
>
>Very true, hard to miss a Mopar starter. Heres an interesting fact for
>yall
>too. Watch the new Gone in 60 Seconds, not the REAL GOOD old one, the ok,
>kinda overplotted new one with Nick Cage. At the very end, when he drives
>off in the old "beater" (if you could call any Shellby that) Mustang, and
>it
>dies, the starter your listening to is none other than a mopar starter.
>Also
>they show a 57 t-bird gettin jacked, but they keep callin it a 56.
>Everyone
>knows that the 55 has a short trunk, the 56 had a continental spare, and
>the
>57 had a long trunk. I know I know, its just a movie, but hey, a movie
>targeted to car buffs should at least get the obvious stuff right.....
>
>Darrell & Tweety
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
Hey, reminds me of another "blooper" about our beloved Ford trucks
in another movie: TERMINATOR II.
The place where they go out in the desert to find some Mexican friends,
those Mexican lend a 85(?) Bronco with a non-working starter
to them. Well, TERMINATOR get underneat and start bolting on another
one, only he uses an extension ratchet VERTICALLY.........
Always thought that the Ford starters bolted to the bellhousing, with
HORIZONTALLY possitioned bolts.......
Also check the COE tow-truck windshield in there, seem to be able to
fix itself pretty quick, that windshield!

Just my undervalued Canadian 2-cents

Gerry
1978 F-150 SuperCab 4x4
1979 F-150 regular cab 4x4
Vive le FORD!
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:44:54 -0800 (PST)

This is probably another case of me thinking about stuff too much,
but here goes.

They way I think of it, the torque on a fastener comes from the
friction on the threads. As the tension on the fastener increases
the friction increases and so the torque reading.

But there are two kinds of friction, static and dynamic. If the
click type torque wrench clicks while the screw is turning, you
measured the torque under a dynamic condition. If you stop turning
and it clicks when you start again you are measuring under a static
condition.

It will always take more force to overcome static friction so this
reading is false. I always try to make sure the wrench clicks while
in motion.

So what really has me baffled is what to do in cases when you have
to re-torque something. Whether it be lug nuts, head bolts, intake
manifold bolts, you put the wrench on and because of static friction
it clicks with no movement of the fastener. So what I have taken to
doing is to wrench on it hard enough so it turns a little and call
it good.

What do you guys do?

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3

lni.net>
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 16:37:11 -0800

Retorquing requires that you loosen the bolt first then re-tighten it if it
doesn't move the first try for the reasons you point out but this flys in
the face of the notion that you need to torque stuff down systematically and
progressively. In my experience loosening one bolt at a time and
retorqueing it is Ok once all bolts have been completely torqued.
Technically you are even supposed to loosen the bolts in the reverse torque
sequence too but how many of us actually do it every time? BTW, how do you
determine the reverse order of a wheel? :-)))

As you say, torque "seems" to be more accurate when the bolt is moving but
if the threads are oiled then you should be getting about the same
regardless. It's when the threads are dry that the metal can somtimes
actually take an immediate "Set" and the surfaces actually mold to the
mating surface to create greater friction due to the irregularities or dirt
or corrosion in the surfaces etc.. The oil pads the surfaces temporarily so
during the torquing operation it should not be much of an issue. Virtually
all instructions on torquing now days call for "Clean" and "Lightly" oiled
threads for good reason. This it absolutely the best way you can assure
reasonable consistancy in the bolt tension.

The simple fact is that torque is a rough means to get the same "Tension" on
all the bolts and must assume that all bolts will have the same resistance
to turning in the threads. No matter what method you use there will be
error so we use what works and the more likely it is going to have to
survive a trip to the moon the more care we take, it's really that simple
:-)

It's been brought up in previous discussions also that there is a difference
in oils too. The spec calls for plain motor oil in all cases. Graphite
oils and other special oils will nullify the torque numbers required to get
the correct results. I use anti-seize and don't worry about it's lube
properties in most cases except when installing internal engine parts in
which case I use the same oil that is going in the engine on every bolt or
nut. Again, the "Lightly" thing only has application where there is a blind
hole involved to prevent hydro locking before the bolt becomes tight on it's
own. You could tighen a bolt and nut in a vat of oil and it would make no
difference to the outcome once "some" oil is applied "Lightly" to the
threads.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> They way I think of it, the torque on a fastener comes from the
> friction on the threads. As the tension on the fastener increases
> the friction increases and so the torque reading.
>
> But there are two kinds of friction, static and dynamic.

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3

lni.net>
Subject: Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 16:41:12 -0800

Ford starters are gear reduction now (have been for many years now) and the
after market high torque ones you can buy for your Ford are most likely
based on the old chrysler design from what I've seen.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> > > I might also add that the MOPARS we are speaking of use gear reduction
> > > starters,
> >
> >Very true, hard to miss a Mopar starter.

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3

lni.net>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 16:59:38 -0800

I've heard of engines bending rods due to hydro lock in the cylinders. This
can happen if there is a serious crack in the head or cylinder and it fills
up while running. Hydro lock is as solid as iron and won't bleed fast
enough to allow it to turn over even with fairly large leaks and if the
cylinder is in good shape it won't leak down at all for all practical
purposes. The liquid acts as a seal. When doing a leak down test you do it
dry and then wet for a comparison.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> This seems like a good explanation, but Isn't there enough piston
> ring gap in
> most engines to allow for the fluids to squeeze out slowly? Not
> to mention
> valves and cylinder wall imperfections. Why wouldn't you be able
> to slowly
> turn the engine over by hand even with a liquid in one or more of the
> cylinders? Seem like it would be slow, but not impossible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 17:57:22 -0500
From: Gary Rubendall <gsruben

infocom.com>
Subject: Re: vibrating 302's

Azie, John:
You guys are exactly where I am...well, maybe not really 'cause I'm in
Indiana but you know...
I'm in digest but I read every day. If you missed this part, it vibrates
sitting in the driveway. I'm seriously considering a hole in the floor
and an automatic just to see if that helps. I really hate to do that. I
guess it's not stock now but SWMBO won't drive it with a stick and where
in the world am I going to put my cupholder if I put a hole in the
middle of the floorboard??? Decisions,decisions,decisions.
Gary R.

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:02:41 EST
Subject: Re: vibrating 302's

Just out of curiosity, are any of the accessories going from motor to motor?
Could you have a fanblade bent, or a bent crankshaft pully? I've been readin
all these, and admit Im pretty stumped. this is one of those problems Id
love to get my hands on if I was closer. If nuthing else its all a learning
experience eh?

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer

pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 15:18:54 -0800

I've even seen a fuel pressure regulator go bad on an EFI motor and hydro
lock a 3.0L six cylinder with fuel.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3

lni.net>
To: <61-79-list

ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 4:59 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Siezed engine & WD 40

> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> I've heard of engines bending rods due to hydro lock in the cylinders.
This
> can happen if there is a serious crack in the head or cylinder and it
fills
> up while running. Hydro lock is as solid as iron and won't bleed fast
> enough to allow it to turn over even with fairly large leaks and if the
> cylinder is in good shape it won't leak down at all for all practical
> purposes. The liquid acts as a seal. When doing a leak down test you do
it
> dry and then wet for a comparison.

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3

lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 17:36:43 -0800

Gentlemen, Diesel is very flammable and the fumes are very combustible and
will cause serious explosion under the right conditions. The problem with
it is that the fumes are heavier than air and will "Pool" on the ground in
conditions were there is no air movement such as in a garage. The proper
thing to use is Mineral Spirits which has a much lower volitility and is
less likely to build up any fumes which can ignite. All pro shops use this
exclusively in parts washers for a good reason. You also should keep a lid
on the container when not in use and if you are soaking parts, use a
container large enough to allow a lid to be placed on it to prevent fume
build up in the building.

A friend of mine received 3rd degree burns from an explosion of fuel oil
when burning a brush pile. The pile was in a depression in the ground which
prevented the fumes from dispursing quicly and the fuel oil was allowed to
set just long enough to pool a sufficient amount of fumes to mix with the
air around it to produce an explosion which picked him right up. He felt
the explosion begin and turned in time so that only his back was seriously
burned. I know this feeling because I did the same thing with gas. You can
actually feel the pressure build before it actually turns into a fire ball
that engulfs you. There was no gasoline in this can, at all. It was pure
diesel fuel.

You can put cigarettes out in gasoline too but, just as with fuel oil, you
have to get past the pool of vapor on top of the container to get to it.
Therein lies the rub gentlemen.....The bible says "Do not presume on
Jehovah's mercy" let him who has ears...........be wise and keep them.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> > I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel
> > fuel. It cleans
> > > good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard.
> > Am I at great
> > > risk of fire?
> > ===========================================================
> > NOPE no way will that stuff blow or ignite without an outside
> > Good Source
> > you could put matches and cigarettes out in it even if you so desired
> > Gordon

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3

lni.net>
Subject: Re: 9" traction-loc clutches/steels
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 17:53:04 -0800

If you use the same pinion/ring set and don't take them apart you can
replace these parts easily. Pull the axles and third member and put in on
the bench. The only thing you will have to do when finished is adjust the
back lash which you can do with an indicator or feeler gauge. I don't have
the spec right in front of me but as I recall it was something up to 0.008"
but can't remember the min spec.

I got them at the ford dealer but they may be available at the parts stores
too, not sure. I know places like Reider Racing will have them too as most
drive train companys will. They are not all that expensive and while you
are in there you might want to replace the carrier bearings too.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> How many of you guys have replaced the diff clutches/steels, and
> where did
> you buy them? How much did it cost, and is this something that I
> can do (I
> have pretty good mechanical skills). Do you have to reload the
> pinion/ring etc, or can it be done while in the 3rd member?
>
> Thanks-
>
> Tony Marino

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3

lni.net>
Subject: Re: balance
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:00:21 -0800

Since you have had all the accessories off several times I will assume that
it's not a loose bolt somewhere in a pully etc.. but could be a chunk
missing from something that's spinning and since this is a stick the
flywheel/clutch could be a problem. Is the pressure plate in good shape?
Is it the diaphram type or finger type? If you loose any of the springs in
the clutch disk or pressure plate you can get some serious vibration too and
if the bell housing is cracked or an engine mount or stanchion is broken or
loose it will vibrate. Also if the frame is cracked near the engine mounts
it can vibrate. I would look for things which are common to the engines
rather than the engines themselves as Azie said.

Remember all the clutch parts except the disk rotate with the engine even
when depressed.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I went thru the drive train thing but that's another tale. I'm sure
> that's not what it is if it vibrates sitting in the driveway.
> And to top it all off I'm going to try to figure out how to make a web
> site to go along with my new ClubFTE membership I just ordered. That
> ought to be choice.
> Gary R.

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 20:16:34 EST
Subject: budget traction lock

i recently came across an old article i had on converting a standard 9" open
carrier to posi, it consisted of parts available from ford, and at one time
cost less than 100.00, a friend of mine did the conversion on his truck and
it worked great, and it was streetable, he didn't know it was there until it
was needed. if anyone is interested in the part numbers, i'll dig it up again.

jeff grant

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:38:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life

yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: budget traction lock

Jeff i would like to know more about it and the part numbers would be great thanks

chris

--- JJJJJGRANT

aol.com wrote:
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> i recently came across an old article i had on converting a standard 9" open
> carrier to posi, it consisted of parts available from ford, and at one time
> cost less than 100.00, a friend of mine did the conversion on his truck and
> it worked great, and it was streetable, he didn't know it was there until it
> was needed. if anyone is interested in the part numbers, i'll dig it up again.
>
> jeff grant
>
> =============================================================
> To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>

=====
Be sure to check out www.trendsettersorv.homestead.com out always being updated

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------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1

alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 21:58:17 -0500

Gentlemen, Diesel is very flammable and the fumes are very combustible and
> will cause serious explosion under the right conditions.
=====================================================
the fumes are flammable IF you are trying to BOIL it i guess but even
MINERAL SPIRITS will blow under the same conditions you speak of
just try and light some diesel fuel just about nothing short of a propane
torch will do it
ive used mineral spirits instead of lighter fluid at times and it will
ignite easier than diesel fuel NOT kerosene many people confuse the two and
there is a difference between fuel oil and diesel also fuel oil will go off
allot quicker than number 2 diesel fuel even
gordon

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82

aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 22:03:09 EST
Subject: Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies

In a message dated 3/14/01 2:25:55 PM Central Standard Time,
np540

hotmail.com writes:

> Well, TERMINATOR get underneat and start bolting on another
> one, only he uses an extension ratchet VERTICALLY.........
> Always thought that the Ford starters bolted to the bellhousing, with
> HORIZONTALLY possitioned bolts.......
> Also check the COE tow-truck windshield in there, seem to be able to
> fix itself pretty quick, that windshield!
>
>
GerryI always thought that was cute I also got a kick when he asked for a
torque wrench to torque the bolts.

Glenn NY

78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches)

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 22:04:45 EST
Subject: Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies

In a message dated 3/14/2001 7:03:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Aeroape82

aol.com writes:

> I also got a kick when he asked for a
> torque wrench to torque the bolts.
>
>
>

yeah, youd think all that cybernetic crap could figure 45 or so ft lbs
without the wrench,,,,

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82

aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 22:20:30 EST
Subject: Re: slow-starting MOPARS--movies

In a message dated 3/14/01 9:05:37 PM Central Standard Time,
JUMPINFORD

aol.com writes:

> yeah, youd think all that cybernetic crap could figure 45 or so ft lbs
> without the wrench,,,,
>
>

Yea I can't beleave he didn't have a calibrated elbow

Glenn NY

78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 23:40:11 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck

raex.com>
Subject: Re: budget traction lock

As would I.

Thanks for the information- I found a couple different places that carries
them- adn it's nice to know I don't have to reload the pinion/ring. I'll
take some pictures now that I have a digi camera at my disposal and
hopefully do up an article on it. Probably in a few weeks. There's just
something fun about driving sideways.. 8-)

Tony

At 06:38 PM 3/14/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Jeff i would like to know more about it and the part numbers would be
>great thanks
>
>
>chris
>
>
>--- JJJJJGRANT

aol.com wrote:
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> > touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> > http://www.motorhaven.com/
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > i recently came across an old article i had on converting a standard 9"
> open
> > carrier to posi, it consisted of parts available from ford, and at one
> time
> > cost less than 100.00, a friend of mine did the conversion on his truck
> and
> > it worked great, and it was streetable, he didn't know it was there
> until it
> > was needed. if anyone is interested in the part numbers, i'll dig it up
> again.
> >
> > jeff grant
> >
> > =============================================================
> > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> > Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
>
>=====
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From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 00:54:25 EST
Subject: Parts for budget posi unit.

this block with four springs, spider gear shafts and plate, replace the plain
block found inside an open carrier. thats all there is to it. i have not done
this personaly, but a friend did it and according to him it works like a
charm. this is stronger than a trac lock unit, i have seen them come apart,
cracks develop in clutch side of the carrier where the ring gear bolts go,
this area is very thin. i have one that is busted and i plan to use the
internal parts (block etc) to convert mine, but i am missing one of the
springs.

part numbers:
D3SZ-4211-A Block w, short spider gear shafts.
D0AZ-4214-A Springs, four required, i'm not sure how they are packaged.
C8OZ-4A-326A Plate.

jeff

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1

alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 06:07:01 -0500

Diesel is not very flammable! Kerosene yes, but not diesel. I have cleaned
parts lot of time with diesel. It doesn't smell great but does less harm to
my lungs than Mineral Spirits. Have you every tried building a fire with
diesel? It is very slow to ignite and slow to burn but with produce a heavy
smoke and bad odor and no you can't burn it in a kerosene lamp with a wick.
This is from a women, and I though you guys knew every thing and to believe
some of you are willing to pay for this advise!
Mrs. Boling
> Gentlemen, Diesel is very flammable and the fumes are very combustible and
> will cause serious explosion under the right conditions.
There was no gasoline in this can, at all. It was pure
> diesel fuel.

You are talking about fumes only and not the liquid its self. I still don't
believe it acts like gasoline or mineral spirits.
Therein lies the rub gentlemen.....The bible says "Do not presume on
> Jehovah's mercy" let him who has ears...........be wise and keep them.

Where is this located at in the Bible? I would like to read it for myself I
am not saying that it is not there just interested that's all.

> I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel
> > > fuel. It cleans
> > > > good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard.
> > > Am I at great
> > > > risk of fire?
> > > ===========================================================
> > > NOPE no way will that stuff blow or ignite without an outside
> > > Good Source
> > > you could put matches and cigarettes out in it even if you so desired
> > > Gordon
>
> =============================================================
> To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>

------------------------------

From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: Re: Fastener Torque - was: ford plugs
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 05:31:42 -0800 (PST)

Gary wrote:
> Retorquing requires that you loosen the bolt first then re-tighten it if it
> doesn't move the first try for the reasons you point out but this flys in
> the face of the notion that you need to torque stuff down systematically and
> progressively. In my experience loosening one bolt at a time and
> retorqueing it is Ok once all bolts have been completely torqued.
> Technically you are even supposed to loosen the bolts in the reverse torque
> sequence too but how many of us actually do it every time? BTW, how do you
> determine the reverse order of a wheel? :-)))

I guess it's just one of those things where it doesn't feel right to
loosen the bolts but I can't say why. Maybe it's because once I have
everything clean, lined up, and torqued down I don't want mess anything
up.

I suppose a person could loosen the bolts in the reverse order just
enough to get a good reading when torqueing them back down. You
would still have some pressure on the gaskets to keep them in place.
(I'm thinking about the intake manifold.) But if somehow something
moves during this all bets would be off.

So I think I like your method better. I would do it in the forward
sequence, loosen and re-tighten each screw. If you only backed it
off say from 35 to 25 and back to 35 I can't see the harm in that.
And you still have all the other screws tight to hold things in place.
Yup, I think I can go with that. Thanks.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 07:55:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone

ford-trucks.com>

> I suppose I thought of it a
> little like a syringe shooting a liquid out through that tiny needle.

Rollie, your logic is correct. Try different size syringes and needles with
different fluids inside. You will find that some come out easier than
others, some won't come out the small ones without a great deal of effort.
Now squirt one with just air in it. That's how it works.

-- John
jlagrone

ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick

Yup! I can see that diesel is absolutely safe...Perhaps no matter what
you use, good breathing apparatus is essential...

G & J Boling wrote:

>
> Diesel is not very flammable! Kerosene yes, but not diesel. I have cleaned
> parts lot of time with diesel. It doesn't smell great but does less harm to
> my lungs than Mineral Spirits. Have you every tried building a fire with
> diesel? It is very slow to ignite and slow to burn but with produce a heavy
> smoke and bad odor and no you can't burn it in a kerosene lamp with a wick.
> This is from a women, and I though you guys knew every thing and to believe
> some of you are willing to pay for this advise!
> Mrs. Boling
> > Gentlemen, Diesel is very flammable and the fumes are very combustible and
> > will cause serious explosion under the right conditions.
> There was no gasoline in this can, at all. It was pure
> > diesel fuel.
>
> You are talking about fumes only and not the liquid its self. I still don't
> believe it acts like gasoline or mineral spirits.
> Therein lies the rub gentlemen.....The bible says "Do not presume on
> > Jehovah's mercy" let him who has ears...........be wise and keep them.
>
> Where is this located at in the Bible? I would like to read it for myself I
> am not saying that it is not there just interested that's all.
>
> > I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel
> > > > fuel. It cleans
> > > > > good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard.
> > > > Am I at great
> > > > > risk of fire?
> > > > =========================================================== ....

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