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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Wed, 14 Mar 2001 11:53:18 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 11:53:18 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 61-79-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #82 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== Serious help restoring and maintaining your Ford truck! ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts carries hundreds of Ford licensed reproduction decals to put that finishing touch on your truck! Air Cleaner Decals Interior Decals Emission Decals Chassis Decals Exterior Decals Body Decals Valve Cover Decals Jack Decals and much more, including Ford oval decals in several sizes! <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/"> http://www.motorhaven.com/</a> ---------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Tue, 13 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 082 In This Issue: Re: Points and condenser: Round 2 Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Re: ford plugs Re: Great minds... Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Carb Regulator Double post Double post Slow starting MOPARS Re: Slow starting MOPARS Seized up engine Vibrating 302's Re: Slow starting MOPARS Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Was: Siezed engine & WD 40, Now Gotta love SWMBO... Re: Rusted bolts etc Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Re: Late model 5 speed manual Lost in space ? Re: 460 header questions Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Re: 460 header questions 460 istallation/F250 CS Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Re: Seized up engine donation page Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Re: Points and condenser: Round 2 Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Re: ford plugs ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 13:01:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Points and condenser: Round 2 From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > FTE: Someone in the previous round had mentioned that the condensor was for > static suppression and not needed for the engine to run. He had > disconnected the condenser and his engine had continued running. Well, in > my recent experience that same thing happened. The engine would idle fine > but when put under load at full power it didn't have a reliable spark to run > it. Now if the truck had electronic ignition and the condenser like thing > was mounted near the voltage regulator I suspect that the true condenser is > incorporated in the ignition module and the can mounted near the voltage > regulator (is on my truck anyway) really is for radio noise suppression. Me. I was in ERROR big time. We (the list) decided that the engine could run without the condensor but that the points would burn up in short order. I was confusing the condensor with the static suppression capacitor on the coil. Confusion comes from getting old and not running anything with points for 10 years. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 13:09:21 -0600 Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > Yeah, ain't it great. ;-) I don't recall if you said what kind of > transmission it has but if it is a manual would it be possible that the > clutch is not disengaging? Make sure the shifter is in neutral and try > again. Now that reminds me of over looking the obvious. Ever had this conversation? SWMBO: My car won't start. Me: Are the lights bright? SWMBO: Yes. When I turn the key nothing happens. No noise, no nothing. Me: I'm coming. I get there, open the door to see the gear selector in Drive, not Park. Place gear selector in Park. Start car. Kiss SWMBO and return to work. Based on a true story from many years ago. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Points and condenser: Round 2 Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 13:43:10 -0800 Why would you need noise suppression on a garden tractor? Does it have a radio?:-)) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > FTE: Someone in the previous round had mentioned that the > condensor was for > static suppression and not needed for the engine to run. > > Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Bill Deacon" <billyboy Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 12:01:54 -0800 I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel fuel. It cleans good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard. Am I at great risk of fire? I probably should have asked first. FTE content?---none, but I think safety does take precedence here---Thanks! Bill ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: ford plugs Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 14:07:50 -0800 I, OTOH, have had them stick and actually break off in the head (Cast Iron too) and, Yes, the aluminum would be a problem if you left them in for exteneded periods because you have the two worst things working against you, heat and moisture. Both of these accellerate any chemical activity which might be trying to take place between the two metals. Have you ever run across an alternator bolt which absolutely would not come out? I mean the large one on the top?. Get an old truck that has not been taken care of and you will find this problem due to the aluminum casing and steel bolt. Back then they used Cad or Tin plating on a lot of stuff and it didn't last very long. They are using something else now that doesn't seem to corrode as easily so you don't see it as much on newer trucks. I always, without exception, regardless of what the book says, use anti-seize on aluminum parts with steel bolts in them. One exception may be the head bolts which typically have plenty of room around them so only the head actually touches anything and which shouldn't be over lubed any way. Some old timers will still say you don't put any lube at all on head bolts due to "Torquing" them. Old manuals will tell you they must be dry, newer ones will tell you they must be "Lightly" oiled and there is a reason for the new thinking. If you stop and analyze it there are a lot of good reasons to have them lubed but you don't want to have a hydro lock situation because the hole was full of oil which is why they say "Lightly" lubed. Does anyone know, or think he knows how to tighten Ford, tapered plugs? I was taught to tighten them by hand (after cleaning out the threads of course) until they seated then turn them with a wrench until you feel them come up hard against the seat then turn an additional 1/8 turn or so. Due to the taper it is difficult to specify a torque because you are not torqueing the threads but the taper which is irrelevent to how tight they actually are. In aluminum heads you can strip the threads if you are not carefull and for that reason all aircraft applicaitons use helicoils right from the factory. Not sure if automotive heads have them stock or not. One of the fears of old timers is that if you lube threads they will turn more easily and you can over tighten them even with a torque wrench. Any time this is the case you have a poor design factor, not rule of thumb. If the torque spec is correct for the application and the depth of thread is appropriate for the fastener and material then lubing the threads can only result in better fastening because it allows for the proper tension on the bolt. If there is a need for better security then you use safety wire or loctite such as in suspension and brake parts. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > > When I have had trouble with the tapered seat spark plugs it > > has always been > > rattling out of the hole not getting stuck. > > > > -- John > > > > engines. My local Ford dealer's service manager doesn't recommend leaving > the plugs in as long as the book says. He claims that in my location > (Maine) with road salt the spark plugs can sieze and damage the > threads in the head. > > Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Great minds... Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 14:13:49 -0800 Or gutter, I mean Rut :-) Old minds think alike because they are deteriorating at the same alarming rate.......Young minds think alike because they have the same over supply of hormones.....:-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > > Some refer to it as a path, while others call it a ditch. ;0) > > > > > > > Only thing that comes to mind right now is hydrostatic lock. > > > > Dang, Gary. Great minds run in the same path? > > > > -- John ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 14:19:32 -0600 Subject: Re: ford plugs From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > Does anyone know, or think he knows how to tighten Ford, tapered plugs? I > was taught to tighten them by hand (after cleaning out the threads of > course) until they seated then turn them with a wrench until you feel them > come up hard against the seat then turn an additional 1/8 turn or so. Due > to the taper it is difficult to specify a torque because you are not > torqueing the threads but the taper which is irrelevent to how tight they > actually are. Your method sounds good to me. I believe there are instructions on the plug box. Anyone have one handy? I should have some boxes at home. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 16:36:47 -0500 I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel fuel. It cleans > good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard. Am I at great > risk of fire? =========================================================== NOPE no way will that stuff blow or ignite without an outside Good Source you could put matches and cigarettes out in it even if you so desired Gordon ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Carb Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 16:19:26 -0600 Eric F. writes: >>There are two different styles of 4-bbl intakes, correct? Spreadbore and squarebore. Can I mix and match carbs or does the current intake neccessitate a certain type of carb?<< There are two different intakes and that will dictate the carb configuration. Also keep in mind that the spreadbore pattern is unique to Ford and is not the same as GM and Chrysler. I'm not sure what the aftermarket intakes carry for bolt patterns. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Regulator Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 16:29:06 -0600 Ox writes: >>I had feeling that might be the case, but was hoping otherwise. Anyone have a trashed/rotted out drivers door they'd be willing to gut the regulator out of?<< Yep!!! Sure do!! Will a '76 be OK?? How soon do you want it?? Contact me off list as I am in digest mode here on the list. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Double post Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 16:32:25 -0600 What gives?? I posted this message back on the 6th of March and I saw it appear. Just read where someone else saw a post the 2nd time!! Something must be amiss with the automated digest formulator/sender or something... Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Double post Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 16:33:42 -0600 Whoops!!! Forgot to include this: >> From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Rusted bolts etc Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 09:58:39 -0600 ---------------------------------------------------------- Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store: http://www.motorhaven.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------- Tom H. writes: snip>>Tried a bunch of things then started whaling on it with a cold chisel and a 3 lb short handle sledge. Hit the bolt head off center and IT TURNED. Was able to get it completly out!. << Some folks have all the luck. >>Got 1 head off and the ridge at the top of the cylinder is minimal. About .0025. Question, can I just remove the pistons without reaming this small ridge?<< I've had good success doing this with this small ridge. Just be careful and tap them lightly past the ridge and most likely all will be well.. >>Next question, Anyone try removing rusted bolts by putting a weld bead on the head and then wrenching on it right after it cooled down (just off red)? How well does it work?<< Had great success doing this very thing.. I'm in digest mode and have had a terrible virus for the past few days is reason for being so late with response. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al.<< Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Slow starting MOPARS Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 16:26:10 -0600 Ox writes: >>Maybe, but I'd put my money on some other factor (even carb tinkering by dodge) as to why dodge motors take so long to start. The carter started just as well when my 400 was a stockish 351M :-). << I might also add that the MOPARS we are speaking of use gear reduction starters, so the engine is not really turning as fast as a direct drive one would !!!! More room for the less vacuum theory.. Right??? Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 18:06:12 EST Subject: Re: Slow starting MOPARS In a message dated 3/13/2001 2:42:02 PM Pacific Standard Time, maggie11 > I might also add that the MOPARS we are speaking of use gear reduction > starters, > so the engine is not really turning as fast as a direct drive one would > !!!! More room > for the less vacuum theory.. Right??? > > Azie Magnusson > Ardmore, Al. > > Very true, hard to miss a Mopar starter. Heres an interesting fact for yall too. Watch the new Gone in 60 Seconds, not the REAL GOOD old one, the ok, kinda overplotted new one with Nick Cage. At the very end, when he drives off in the old "beater" (if you could call any Shellby that) Mustang, and it dies, the starter your listening to is none other than a mopar starter. Also they show a 57 t-bird gettin jacked, but they keep callin it a 56. Everyone knows that the 55 has a short trunk, the 56 had a continental spare, and the 57 had a long trunk. I know I know, its just a movie, but hey, a movie targeted to car buffs should at least get the obvious stuff right..... Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Seized up engine Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:10:44 -0600 Virgil writes: >>Has anyone ever used WD 40 through the spark plug holes to free up a siezed engine? << Yep!!! Works pretty good, but if it has been sitting for just a few weeks, are you sure it is rusted up?? Remove all the sparkplugs and try to turn it over again. Never had even the Generals junk to seize that quick. Starters have been known to "lock" and remain engaged. This would cause the symptoms you are encountering. Might want to remove the starter and see if it will rotate, also!! Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: Vibrating 302's Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:04:21 -0600 John LaG. writes: >>If these were totally different engines that shred no common parts, i.e. the swap was a complete take one whole engine out and put a whole different engine in, then it isn't the engine at all.<< That is what I was thinking also, but I thought I must have missed something. 2 different motors with the same vibs in the same vehicle. Not a balance problem most likely. Don't have a clue what it is(could be) but I'd venture to say it is safe to rule out balance(unbalance).. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Daniel Beiers" <dbeiers Subject: Re: Slow starting MOPARS Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:05:12 -0700 it wasn't a shelby either, did you notice? pretty decent job on the fake though :) Dan -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce [mailto:61-79-list-bounce JUMPINFORD Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 4:06 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Slow starting MOPARS ---------------------------------------------------------- Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store: http://www.motorhaven.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------- In a message dated 3/13/2001 2:42:02 PM Pacific Standard Time, maggie11 > I might also add that the MOPARS we are speaking of use gear reduction > starters, > so the engine is not really turning as fast as a direct drive one would > !!!! More room > for the less vacuum theory.. Right??? > > Azie Magnusson > Ardmore, Al. > > Very true, hard to miss a Mopar starter. Heres an interesting fact for yall too. Watch the new Gone in 60 Seconds, not the REAL GOOD old one, the ok, kinda overplotted new one with Nick Cage. At the very end, when he drives off in the old "beater" (if you could call any Shellby that) Mustang, and it dies, the starter your listening to is none other than a mopar starter. Also they show a 57 t-bird gettin jacked, but they keep callin it a 56. Everyone knows that the 55 has a short trunk, the 56 had a continental spare, and the 57 had a long trunk. I know I know, its just a movie, but hey, a movie targeted to car buffs should at least get the obvious stuff right..... Darrell & Tweety ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Montana Mark" <big78ford Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:03:56 -0700 > Now that reminds me of over looking the obvious. Ever had this conversation? > SWMBO: My car won't start. > Me: Are the lights bright? > SWMBO: Yes. When I turn the key nothing happens. No noise, no nothing. > Me: I'm coming. > > I get there, open the door to see the gear selector in Drive, not Park. > Place gear selector in Park. Start car. Kiss SWMBO and return to work. Yes, I was out of town for work and left the wife my truck and an old 71 Wagoneer to drive. She was driving the Wagoneer because its hard for her to climb into my truck. She took our son to school, on a rainy day no less and the Jeep wouldn't start for her. When she called me I asked if it was in drive, she said of course not, she checked that. She didn't say much when some friends of ours went out, put it in park and started it right up. I still kid her about that one. Montana Mark 1978 Ford F150 4x4 "The Great Pumpkin" http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.members.home.net/big78ford ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther Subject: Was: Siezed engine & WD 40, Now Gotta love SWMBO... Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 16:19:35 -0800 One of the classic lines uttered by my (now ex) wife came in the grocery store where we passed an end cap full of encyclopedias that you could buy one at a time and she reads the sign out loud: "Collect the entire 42 volume set" and asks.... "Wonder how many there are?" Yup. Blonde... -----Original Message----- From: Montana Mark [mailto:big78ford Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 4:04 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 ---------------------------------------------------------- Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store: http://www.motorhaven.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------- > Now that reminds me of over looking the obvious. Ever had this conversation? > SWMBO: My car won't start. > Me: Are the lights bright? > SWMBO: Yes. When I turn the key nothing happens. No noise, no nothing. > Me: I'm coming. > > I get there, open the door to see the gear selector in Drive, not Park. > Place gear selector in Park. Start car. Kiss SWMBO and return to work. Yes, I was out of town for work and left the wife my truck and an old 71 Wagoneer to drive. She was driving the Wagoneer because its hard for her to climb into my truck. She took our son to school, on a rainy day no less and the Jeep wouldn't start for her. When she called me I asked if it was in drive, she said of course not, she checked that. She didn't say much when some friends of ours went out, put it in park and started it right up. I still kid her about that one. Montana Mark 1978 Ford F150 4x4 "The Great Pumpkin" http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.members.home.net/big78ford ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: WEDIVE247 Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 19:41:00 EST Subject: Re: Rusted bolts etc In a message dated 3/12/2001 9:56:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, Tom.Hogan > It might but I think the idea was that the welder concentrated the heat in > the bolt better. > > That makes cents... ------------------------------ From: WEDIVE247 Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 20:29:54 EST Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 In a message dated 3/13/2001 2:08:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, jlagrone > > Now that reminds me of over looking the obvious. Ever had this conversation? > SWMBO: My car won't start. > Me: Are the lights bright? > SWMBO: Yes. When I turn the key nothing happens. No noise, no nothing. > Me: I'm coming. > > I get there, open the door to see the gear selector in Drive, not Park. > Place gear selector in Park. Start car. Kiss SWMBO and return to work. > > That must be a girl thing ....Daughter does the same thing about once a month ... Now I talk her thru it on the phone ... ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 20:39:12 EST Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Have you tried to remove all the plugs and then turn it over, that will mean that thier is no compression in the engine at all. If you still can't turn it over still then thier may be internal damage. Also you may try to put the trans. in nutral to take it out of the picture. Check the starter to make sure it isn't stuck out and frozen in place. Glenn NY 78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches) ------------------------------ From: "gene baker" <bakergene Subject: Re: Late model 5 speed manual Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 21:36:29 -0600 I dont know as I have never done it, but when I was looking into whether it would be cheaper to convert that or install a full 5.0 and AOD, I found a company that makes a AOD with an FE bellhousing already cast on it. The company name is Lentech Automatic Transmissions, and they can be reached at www.lentechautomatics.com. I think the price they had listed for a FE AOD tranny is $2995.00, I know thats expensive, but it sure looked right from the ad I saw. This may not be what you are looking for, but I thought I would pass along the info anyway. THANKS, GENE BAKER bakergene There is a never ending struggle between computer programmers, trying to build bigger and better idiot proof programs; and the universe trying to build bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Subject: Lost in space ? Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 22:58:09 -0500 Hi all, does anybody know how to get a hold of a couple of list regulars; Stu Varner and Bill Ballinger ? If you guys are "out there" send me a note so I'll have your address again. When I send to you it bounces. Thanx, Phil ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 23:57:24 EST Subject: Re: 460 header questions hey folks, just got a letter from Hedman, they assure me that their long tomb headers they list for my truck will fit just fine. Just wanted to pass that info along. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: SevnD2 Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 01:39:09 EST Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 In a message dated 03/13/2001 11:31:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, gpeters3 << Only thing that comes to mind right now is hydrostatic lock. >> This seems like a good explanation, but Isn't there enough piston ring gap in most engines to allow for the fluids to squeeze out slowly? Not to mention valves and cylinder wall imperfections. Why wouldn't you be able to slowly turn the engine over by hand even with a liquid in one or more of the cylinders? Seem like it would be slow, but not impossible. I'm not trying to start another thread, just curious. I have heard of this twenty some years ago and never understood it then either. If air leaks down past a piston, so should liquids, just slower. Right? Rollie ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" <jwebster Subject: Re: 460 header questions Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:22:56 -0500 ---------------------------------------------------------- hey folks, just got a letter from Hedman, they assure me that their long tomb headers they list for my truck will fit just fine. Just wanted to pass that info along. Darrell & Tweety I hope it works out for you, I had assurances from both Hedman (two sets) and Hooker that the headers would fit. Only with a blue tipped wrench would they come close. Not trying to knock the wind from your sails but don't let it bother you to much if they don't slide into place. Good Luck. John '77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's ------------------------------ From: "Jeff Bennett" <jmb40 Subject: 460 istallation/F250 CS Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 08:34:52 -0500 I have a 460/c6 out of a 72 Lincoln. I am considering putting them into my F250 CS. It has the aux tank and the tail housing looks like it may not clear the tank, especially if I hook up the speedometer cable. Were the C6 tail housings different between cars and trucks? jeff ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:17:55 -0500 From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick I believe that a lot of boat/ship engines are diesel due to the reduced fire hazard compared to gas. Diesel is extremely hard to ignite. Virgil > I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel fuel. It > cleans > > good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard. Am I at > great > > risk of fire? > =========================================================== > NOPE no way will that stuff blow or ignite without an outside Good Source > you could put matches and cigarettes out in it even if you so desired > Gordon > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 08:14:51 -0600 Subject: Re: love SWMBO From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > That must be a girl thing ....Daughter does the same thing about once a month > ... Now I talk her thru it on the phone ... I apologize to the ladies in FTE land. I never intended to start a SWMBO bashing contest. I always thought the story was kind of funny and SWMBO relates it herself from time to time. I have pulled plenty of boners of my own. The great big spot of primer on my driver's door is testimony to that fact... BTW, last Friday was our 25th wedding anniversary. I guess I'll keep her at least until the honeymoon is over. ;-) -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 08:27:29 -0600 Subject: Re: Siezed engine From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > I'm not trying to start another thread, just curious. I have heard of this > twenty some years ago and never understood it then either. If air leaks down > past a piston, so should liquids, just slower. Right? In my experience the answer has been no, liquid won't go by the rings. Liquid is not compressible and has a cohesion property that gases don't have. Cohesion is what makes water bead up on your freshly polished hood when it rains. At any rate, different liquids can be forced through different sized openings. This is basically the principle that makes a water separator work in a diesel fuel line. The holes in the medium will allow diesel fuel to pass, but not water. This is simplified greatly and as usual, others will add clarification and details which I graciously appreciate. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:36:09 -0500 From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston Subject: Re: Seized up engine Azie, Thanks for the tip. I will try both. I am convinced that this problem isn't as big a deal as the mechanic I took it to says it is. Virgil > -----Original Message----- > From: Azie L. Magnusson [SMTP:maggie11 > Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 6:11 PM > To: 61-79-list > Subject: [61-79-list] Seized up engine > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing > touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store: > http://www.motorhaven.com/ > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Virgil writes: >>Has anyone ever used WD 40 through the spark plug holes > to free up a siezed > engine? << > > Yep!!! Works pretty good, but if it has been sitting for just a few > weeks, are you sure it is rusted up?? Remove all the sparkplugs and > try to turn it over again. Never had even the Generals junk to seize > that quick. Starters have been known to "lock" and remain engaged. > This would cause the symptoms you are encountering. Might want to > remove the starter and see if it will rotate, also!! > > Azie Magnusson > Ardmore, Al. > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:54:54 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo Subject: donation page Whats the addy for the donation page again?? I looked under web_store, but could not find it? OX -- 78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift (27 mud), never 79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it). 79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 19.3 86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:50:14 -0800 > I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel > fuel. It cleans > good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard. > Am I at great > risk of fire? I probably should have asked first. FTE > content?---none, but I > think safety does take precedence here---Thanks! Bill > > > I can remember using diesel as a degreaser extensively on the farm. I know that diesel doesn't vapor like gasoline does so a flash fire is less likely. (I said LESS likely not it wouldn't happen.) Most parts washer have some sort of cover with a meltable link that lets go if there is a fire in the basin and allows the cover to fall and smother or slow the fire. If you are using regular wire to hold the cover up then this feature is defeated. If you don't have a low temp melt link I know someone who uses a piece of solder as the link. Use the thin solder used for electronics and small projects, not the thick plummers solder. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: Points and condenser: Round 2 Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:50:13 -0800 You've never seen MY garden tractor. :0) Actually my tractor needs the condensor for the same reason as any points engine, protect the points. I was just surprised it would idle without a condensor but would load up and missfire under load. Now my 76 F-150 with electronic ignition doesn't have a condenser connected to the coil as I recall (I'll have to look when I can open the hood.) But I know it has a condenser looking thing mounted next to the voltage regulator. Tom H. > Why would you need noise suppression on a garden tractor? > Does it have a > radio?:-)) > > -- > Happily Retired (but broke) > Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary > -- > > > FTE: Someone in the previous round had mentioned that the > > condensor was for > > static suppression and not needed for the engine to run. > > > > Tom H. > ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:50:17 -0800 > gpeters3 > > << Only thing that comes to mind right now is hydrostatic lock. >> > > This seems like a good explanation, but Isn't there enough > piston ring gap in > most engines to allow for the fluids to squeeze out slowly? > Not to mention > valves and cylinder wall imperfections. Why wouldn't you be > able to slowly > turn the engine over by hand even with a liquid in one or more of the > cylinders? Seem like it would be slow, but not impossible. > > I'm not trying to start another thread, just curious. I have > heard of this > twenty some years ago and never understood it then either. If > air leaks down > past a piston, so should liquids, just slower. Right? > > Rollie Theoretically that may be right but the liquid would leak by sooo slowly it might take a couple of months to get 1 revolution. Also I think that the 'surface tension' of liquid, being much higher than air, would aid in the sealing of the rings to the wall. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40 Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:50:16 -0800 > > > > > Now that reminds me of over looking the obvious. Ever had > this conversation? > > SWMBO: My car won't start. > > Me: Are the lights bright? > > SWMBO: Yes. When I turn the key nothing happens. No noise, > no nothing. > > Me: I'm coming. > > > > I get there, open the door to see the gear selector in > Drive, not Park. > > Place gear selector in Park. Start car. Kiss SWMBO and > return to work. > > > > > > That must be a girl thing ....Daughter does the same thing > about once a month > ... Now I talk her thru it on the phone ... > > > Now Now guys, I've done this myself a few times. After my panic attack subsides I look down and put it in park, start it and drive away. ;0) Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:50:14 -0800 > > I have a parts cleaner filled with 3 or 4 gallons of diesel > fuel. It cleans > > good enough for me, but I am worried about the fire hazard. > Am I at great > > risk of fire? > =========================================================== > NOPE no way will that stuff blow or ignite without an outside > Good Source > you could put matches and cigarettes out in it even if you so desired > Gordon > > I don't think I would say NO way. I agree that pure diesel is difficult to ignite but put a wick in it and it will burn quite niceley. Also the environment of a parts washer ensures the diesel will be contaminated with something. If it somehow gets gasoline mixed in there (cleaning a carb maybe) the ease of ignition goes way up. I can remember the farm mags running warning ads from Exxon in the fall warning farmers not to thin their diesel with gasoline to prevent fuel gelling. They were concerned with in tank explosions. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: ford plugs Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:50:14 -0800 <snip> > One of the fears of old timers is that if you lube threads > they will turn > more easily and you can over tighten them even with a torque > wrench. Any > time this is the case you have a poor design factor, not rule > of thumb. If > the torque spec is correct for the application and the depth > of thread is > appropriate for the fastener and material then lubing the > threads can only > result in better fastening because it allows for the proper > tension on the > bolt. If there is a need for better security then you use > safety wire or > loctite such as in suspension and brake parts. > > -- > Happily Retired (but broke) > Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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