Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Tue, 13 Mar 2001 14:15:50 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 14:15:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #81
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----------------------------------------------------------
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http://www.motorhaven.com/</a>

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 12 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 081

In This Issue:
Late model 5 speed manual
"unsubscribe 61-79-list"
Re: balance
New truck in the stable!  Woohoo!!
Re: New truck in the stable!  Woohoo!!
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: power window kit
Re: power window kit
Re: Rusted bolts etc
'68-'69 instrument panel
Re: New truck in the stable!  Woohoo!!
Re: Rusted bolts etc
Re: Rusted bolts etc
Re: There's Booze in the Blender
Re: Late model 5 speed manual
Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: ford plugs
Re: Rusted bolts etc
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
9" traction-loc clutches/steels
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Re: ford plugs
Points and condenser: Round 2
Re: Siezed engine & WD 40

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:11:41 -0600
From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: Late model 5 speed manual


>anyone know how tiresome it is to get a late model truck speed
>to mate to an FE 352
>
Well, there are two of them that I am aware of.  The M5OD you will not be
able to do this.  It has an integrated case/bellhousing and will only fit
the small-block bolt pattern.  M5OD is the "light-duty" version.  Now,
there is also a heavier-duty version used in the 250 and 350 trucks, I
think it is made by ZF.  I don't know if it has a seperate bellhousing or
not.  If not, you're done, there won't be one that will fit an FE.  If it
does, then you would need to mate an older bellhousing from an FE.  This
might be a trick since these transmissions use a hydraulic throwout bearing
which might have to be modified to fit.  It'll be tough to do, at best.

Perhaps an add-on overdrive might be a better option.
  _
_| ~~.  John Strauss
\, *_}  jstrauss inetport.com
  \(    Texas Fight!


------------------------------

From: DWBaile aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:45:50 EST
Subject: "unsubscribe 61-79-list"




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:46:40 -0500
From: Gary Rubendall <gsruben infocom.com>
Subject: Re: balance


Gary,
The engine vibrates just off idle sitting in the driveway, in neutral
with the clutch pushed in. I have never heard of a "Detroit balance". If
it means mixing and matching parts I learned one more new thing from
this list. Now if I could only figure how to fix this darn motor. By the
way, it also vibrates going down the road starting at about 20-25
mph.The first 5.0 I had in it shook terrible because I used the flywheel
from the '80. It was originally set up with an automatic and I really
didn't want to cut the hole in the floor (ruins the outward appearance
of stock).  The 1980 then had a minor overhaul which included the
different crank, front balancer and flywheel, still a shake. Took it out
again and put another motor (302) in it that the guy swore was a good
running motor and all matched. It was a 1978 302...still shook. So I put
the original 1980 302 back in it and that's where I am.
I went thru the drive train thing but that's another tale. I'm sure
that's not what it is if it vibrates sitting in the driveway.
And to top it all off I'm going to try to figure out how to make a web
site to go along with my new ClubFTE membership I just ordered. That
ought to be choice.
Gary R.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 16:57:47 -0600
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: New truck in the stable!  Woohoo!!


Greetings fellow Ford truckers -

Just wanted to let everyone know that Dennis Pearson is the proud new
"godfather"
of my new 1962 Unibody "he" found on ebay and I snagged this morning.  This
old truck is a very nice original
short wheel base truck with only a very minor amount of rust between the
cab and bed seam and only a minor amount of rust in the lower portion of
the tailgate.  Email me if you want to see some pictures, I am glad to share.

My good friend here locally that some list members met last May, Wendell
Murphy, ( who is not an FTE list member ) inspected the newborn this
afternoon.  Tears of joy (??) flowed from his eyes as he looked the old
girl over.  Wendell had the red 61 Unibody parked next to mine at PF that
won a best of show this past May (even if it was Chubby powered).  He
regrets passing on the chance to buy this truck.

For those interested, my plans for the 68 Mercury M-100 clone have been
somewhat regretfully placed on the back burner for a while.  Due to the
ease of locating 67-72 parts and the acquisition of the Uni.  It will be
restored someday shortly after the Unibody has been hot rodded.

At last account, the godfather is doing well, the father is very pleased,
elated and joyful the new youth has arrived into the fold unscathed, and my
wife,  the new mother - well, lets just say she is still recovering from
the traumatic event.

Stu
Nuke GM!

1962 Unibody swb
1968 Mercury M-100 clone swb
1971 F-100 4x4 swb



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:38:53 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: New truck in the stable!  Woohoo!!


Thank you, Stu.  I only want to say that this is an honor that I will
take on seriously and solemnly.  I intend to be fully involved in the
moral upbringing of this fine strapping street machine...and to teach it
to eat Ch**ies alive...!

Stu Varner wrote:

> Greetings fellow Ford truckers -
>
> Just wanted to let everyone know that Dennis Pearson is the proud new
> "godfather"
> of my new 1962 Unibody "he" found on ebay and I snagged this morning.
--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 18:38:44 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick


Thank you for the information.  I will look for the SC3.  It is amazing how
easy
things are to clean after soaking for a few days!

I Guess the Hydro Seal is a dead issue.  I still have a stainless steel
bucket with some in it so I guess I will save it for special ocassions.
I guess the new stuff won't mix.

I guess I will look for safety kleen and see if they will sell a
bucket.  It usually lasts
me a long time.   I do not keep the flammable solvents in the house or garage.
I have this thing about fire.  I have a small work shed out back that I
store all
the stuff that burns.  The hydro seal was nice because it had a layer of
water on
the top.

Thanks again for the information.

    Bill


At 09:48 PM 3/11/01 -0500, Dan Herrmann wrote:
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>At 07:09 PM 3/11/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >What is your favorite way of cleaning parts?   I used to by a product
> >made by GUNK that you mixed with kerosene that you could let
> >parts soak in.  I cannot find it any more.
>
>
>This is right up my alley, been dealing in the lubricants & checmical
>business now for 14 years...
>The product your looking for is Gunk SC3 Degreaser (SC meaning Super
>Concentrated).  Your right, it is made to be mixed with a petroleum product
>like Kerosene or Diesel Fuel. This product is still made by Radiator
>Specialty Company (Gunk's parent company) in Charlotte, North Carolina. It
>can be purchased in quart bottles all the way up to 55 gal Drums. Most of
>the National chain Auto Parts stores does not carry it. I recommend looking
>in your local Farm & Fleet store and your indepentantly owned NAPA,
>CarQuest or Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts stores. Many Hardware stores also
>carry the product. Or you might get the company phone number through
>Information and call them for a lead.
>
>
>
>  >I also used to use a product
> >called HydroSeal that I used for cleaning parts, mainly carburetors< but
> >I cannot find that either.
>
>
>
>HydroSeal is also a product of Radiator Specialty and was commonly found in
>convenant 5 gallon pails which was perfect for Carbs.  The part numbers is
>HS5LB  &  HS5K (w/basket).  A few years ago this was the best product
>around. Then the EPA forced changes onto the company and the product lost
>some of it's ZAP. You can still get it through most independantly owned
>Auto Parts stores. But it is NOT made for your parts Vat!  Another 5 gallon
>pail cleaner is Berryman for Carbs and parts. It is also a good product.
>
>
>
>
>  > I have a parts cleaner (sink on a barrel type)
> >with
> >a flow through brush to clean some things.
>
>
>
>Radiator Specialy does make Parts Vat cleaner but it is difficult to find.
>The best place to get this is through Safety Clean. They are a National
>company with offices in almost every major city. They'll deliver out a new
>keg (mini drum) of cleaner and haul away your old contaminated cleaner. For
>a fee of  coarse! And you can call them on an as needed basis.
>
>
>Good Luck on your projects this summer!
>
>
>Dan Herrmann
>
>64 F100 Custom Cab
>66 F100 Custom Cab
>69 F100 Ranger
>75 F150 Explorer
>79 F150 Ranger XLT
>
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 19:25:02 EST
Subject: Re: power window kit

Ive got the regulator out of a 78, tha still has a small piece of the door
riveted to it  :)  Door was trash, but wanted to save everything, and since
air chisels are just so fast.....  Lemme double check, make sure its good.
If it is, just pay the shipping, and its yours.  I've got a stack of complete
doors, so I dont think I'll run myself short.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: power window kit
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 19:04:03 -0800


Would this help me get power windows in my 66? Or are the parts completely different? I was planning on ordering the kit from Dennis Carpenter.


Garrett Nelson
www.1966ford.com
 ----- Original Message -----
 From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 4:25 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Re: power window kit
 ----------------------------------------------------------
 Ive got the regulator out of a 78, tha still has a small piece of the door
 riveted to it  :)  Door was trash, but wanted to save everything, and since
 air chisels are just so fast.....  Lemme double check, make sure its good.
 If it is, just pay the shipping, and its yours.  I've got a stack of complete
 doors, so I dont think I'll run myself short.

 Darrell & Tweety





------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 20:11:43 EST
Subject: Re: Rusted bolts etc

In a message dated 3/12/2001 2:23:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:


> Next question,  Anyone try removing rusted bolts by putting a weld bead on
> the head and then wrenching on it right after it cooled down (just off red)?
> How well does it work?<<
>
> Had great success doing this very thing..
>
> I'm in digest mode and have had a terrible virus for the past few days is
> reason for
>

    Just wondering . Wouldn't a torch work the same way ?



------------------------------

From: "Stephen Brown" <snoopy1 ford-trucks.net>
Subject: '68-'69 instrument panel
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:50:26 -0800

OK,
I took the panels out and here's what  I found:

On the 68 panel The alt gauge has a RED wire & a YELLOW wire.
On the 69 panel the alt idiot lite has a GREEN w ed stripe  & BLACK w\yellow stripe

Now heres my problem,  the yellow wire on the 68, & the green w/red on the
69  go to the same spot on the harness (OK so far)
But , the red wire on the 68, is in the spot where a BLUE wire is on the 69 (blue wire
goes to the turn signal flasher)
All the other wires are the same , so I can modify these wires to go in the correct spots
the only problem I have is the RED wire has no place in the 69 truck wire harness

Where does the Red wire go?

Unfortunately I don't have wiring diagrames for these trucks....:-(              Thanks.

Stephen Brown

71  F250   "Baby"
69  F100
68  F100  (parts truck)
94  Ranger Supercab 4.0


------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:28:12 EST
Subject: Re: New truck in the stable!  Woohoo!!


In a message dated 3/12/01 3:40:12 PM Pacific Standard Time, dpearson ctc.edu
writes:

<< hank you, Stu.  I only want to say that this is an honor that I will
take on seriously and solemnly.  I intend to be fully involved in the
moral upbringing of this fine strapping street machine...and to teach it
to eat Ch**ies alive...!
 >>

Hey, way to go Dennis!
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Rusted bolts etc
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 18:56:00 -0800


>
> > Next question,  Anyone try removing rusted bolts by putting
> a weld bead on
> > the head and then wrenching on it right after it cooled
> down (just off red)?
> > How well does it work?<<
> >
> > Had great success doing this very thing..
> >
> > I'm in digest mode and have had a terrible virus for the
> past few days is
> > reason for
> >
>
>      Just wondering . Wouldn't a torch work the same way ?
>
>

It might but I think the idea was that the welder concentrated the heat in
the bolt better.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Rusted bolts etc
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 22:51:51 -0800

I had to use that method to remove several bolts (mostly exhaust manifold) from my 390 when I first got it. A wire feed welder works great for this, and a hammer... weld some, hit it with a hammer, weld some more, repeat until you can clamp a vise grip on it. Learned it from my auto shop teacher in high school.

Garrett Nelson
www.1966ford.com




 >
 > > Next question,  Anyone try removing rusted bolts by putting
 > a weld bead on
 > > the head and then wrenching on it right after it cooled
 > down (just off red)?
 > > How well does it work?<<
 >


------------------------------

From: "mmiller14" <mmiller14 socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: There's Booze in the Blender
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:31:31 -0800


Garrett Nelson, garrettnelson writeme.com wrote:
> Are you on crack? Maybe I am missing something?
> Garrett Nelson
> www.1966ford.com

You sure are, Garrett.  Rather than suggest that I take drugs,
why don't you actually at least look at the sites that Ken is
partnering with.  It might help support the Listfather and his
family.  If you had taken the time, before you accused me of
imbibing in illegal substances, to look at the Geno's site, you
would have found a GASOLINE POWERED BLENDER!  For
real!  That may have given you a clue!  As it is, clueless.

Marv Miller - mailto:ae722 lafn.org
or:  mailto:mmiller14 socal.rr.com
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am"

----- Original Message -----
>   From: mmiller14
>   To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>   Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 11:48 AM
>   Subject: [61-79-list] There's Booze in the Blender

>   The Listfather, kpayne ford-trucks.com wrote, in part:
>   > Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce our new online
>    > store for 1997 and newer F-150's (and light duty F-250s):
>   > www.motorhaven.com
>   > We will be adding more products and cover additional trucks
>   > in the future.
>
>   Ooooo, Ooooo, Oooooooooooo!  A GAS-POWERED
>   MARGARITA MIXER!!!!!  Too bad I can't afford it, but it
>   certainly adds significantly to the cylinder count!
>   You super-macho guys with V-10's NEED this!



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 08:21:26 -0600
Subject: Re: balance
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> The 1980 then had a minor overhaul which included the
> different crank, front balancer and flywheel, still a shake. Took it out
> again and put another motor (302) in it that the guy swore was a good
> running motor and all matched. It was a 1978 302...still shook.

If these were totally different engines that shred no common parts, i.e. the
swap was a complete take one whole engine out and put a whole different
engine in, then it isn't the engine at all.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 09:46:23 -0500
From: William King <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Late model 5 speed manual


Tim,
This may not qualify as an exact answer to your question, but hopefully it will
help.  I'll assume your truck is 2wd?  I'll also assume you want an overdrive
5th gear (or simply to lower your revs on the highway)?  The two most hopeful
5 speed conversions are either a Tremec TR3550 (rated to about 425 ft lbs)
or a Tremec TKO (rated to about 490 ft lbs).  Both are aluminum case, 5 speed,
internal rail shifter trannys.  Fourth gear is 1:1, 5th is usually .76:1
(but you
can order a "road-race" version  of either w/ a .80:1 5th).  Both trannys
are usually
used by the Mustang crowd to replace their T-5s, and neither appears in many
new cars (only the Mustang Cobra-R comes to mind...it uses the TKO methinks).
This means you probably won't find either TR3550 or TKO sitting in a bone-yard.
You'll need an adapter plate (fits between tranny and bellhousing to back-space
the input shaft).  The TR3550 has a 10 spline input, the TKO a 1 1/8" 26 spline
input.  Something to consider in terms of clutch-disk selection.
You can order both trannys new from either Dark Horse Performance
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.darkhorseperformace.com/
or JSA Performance http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jimswarrauto.com/early.html

Dark Horse also sells the spacer plate, and will include a drive-shaft yoke
and shifter.

If you want to drop your revs, your other options are to swap in a 3+1 four
speed
(3rd is 1:1, 4th about .76:1), swap in lower rear-end gears and keep your
current
tranny, or just put bigger (in diameter) tires on the rear...

Hope this helps.  If you have other questions about the TKO/Tremec's drop
me a line.
I'm in digest mode, so it will just take a while for me to reply.

Ohio Bill
1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed
1968 Torino GT 429 4v 5 speed
************************************
>Hey all
>
>anyone know how tiresome it is to get a late model truck speed
>to mate to an FE 352
>
>Thanks as always
>Tim
>tsherva prismnet.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 09:59:31 -0500
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Siezed engine & WD 40


Has anyone ever used WD 40 through the spark plug holes to free up a siezed
engine? This is not a Ford truck, so please indludge me. This damn GMC Ji#
sat for six weeks and the engine will not turn, even with a pry bar. This
truck is too good to trash and at least I could sell it if I can get it
running. The mechanic wants $2000 for a rebuild (which I don't have) and I
am not convinced it needs that, anyway. My F100 is running fine (FTE
content), but getting ready to redo the exhaust system.

Thanks,
Virgil


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 07:06:11 -0800


3 words:  Marvel Mystery Oil.  Others will have concoctions they swear by,
but if MMO won't get it loose, it ain't coming loose.

-----Original Message-----
From: Huston, Virgil H. [mailto:vhhuston switch.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 7:00 AM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: [61-79-list] Siezed engine & WD 40


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------

Has anyone ever used WD 40 through the spark plug holes to free up a siezed
engine? This is not a Ford truck, so please indludge me. This damn GMC Ji#
sat for six weeks and the engine will not turn, even with a pry bar. This
truck is too good to trash and at least I could sell it if I can get it
running. The mechanic wants $2000 for a rebuild (which I don't have) and I
am not convinced it needs that, anyway. My F100 is running fine (FTE
content), but getting ready to redo the exhaust system.

Thanks,
Virgil

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 09:25:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> 3 words:  Marvel Mystery Oil.  Others will have concoctions they swear by,
> but if MMO won't get it loose, it ain't coming loose.

Was it running when you parked it? It doesn't seem right for it to seize up
in 6 weeks. Don't be surprised if you have engine damage causing the lock
up.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 07:30:23 -0800


you're absolutely right.  When I got my '77 E150 (FTE content), it had been
sitting for almost 4 years without being started.  Turned over with no
problem.

Likely there is another problem (I missed the 6 weeks thing the first time).

-----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone [mailto:jlagrone ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 7:25 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Siezed engine & WD 40


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------

> 3 words:  Marvel Mystery Oil.  Others will have concoctions they swear by,
> but if MMO won't get it loose, it ain't coming loose.

Was it running when you parked it? It doesn't seem right for it to seize up
in 6 weeks. Don't be surprised if you have engine damage causing the lock
up.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:32:23 -0500
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40


It was running just fine when I last parked it. After I eliminated
all the problems I could think of, like battery, starter, etc., I had it
towed to a mechanic. He said he couldn't find anything wrong and that he
would have to pull the engine. I wanted to try the WD 40 or (as Rich
suggested) Marvel Mystery Oil before tearing it apart.

Thanks,
Virgil

> Was it running when you parked it? It doesn't seem right for it to seize
> up
> in 6 weeks. Don't be surprised if you have engine damage causing the lock
> up.
>
>

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ford plugs
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:21:19 -0800


Theoretically, no but you never know.  Anti-seize is not a very good
conductor but when you torque the plugs to 18# or so there should be some
serious metal to metal contact so I wouldn't think it would be a problem.
Try it and see.  A little brake cleaner will fix it if it doesn't work :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Do you use anti-sieze on the plugs?  Seems like a good idea,
> steel plugs in
> an aluminum head but would it interfere with the electrical connection?
>
> Tom H.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Rusted bolts etc
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:27:22 -0800


The arc welder will put more heat into the bolt faster but it also will eat
at the rust because it is trying to find a good path and the heat generated
when it tries to go through the rust will break up the rust, loosening the
bolt.  The hammer blows do the same thing but by actually compressing the
steel and breaking up the rust that way.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> >      Just wondering . Wouldn't a torch work the same way ?
> >
> >
>
> It might but I think the idea was that the welder concentrated the heat in
> the bolt better.
>
> Tom H.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:32:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> It was running just fine when I last parked it. After I eliminated
> all the problems I could think of, like battery, starter, etc., I had it
> towed to a mechanic. He said he couldn't find anything wrong and that he
> would have to pull the engine. I wanted to try the WD 40 or (as Rich
> suggested) Marvel Mystery Oil before tearing it apart.

Are you trying to turn it over with the spark plugs installed? I assume not,
but if so, take them out. You may have a cylinder on the compression stroke
full of water/coolant due to a bad head gasket or other malady. The truck
might run fine when driven daily, but a slow leak could fill up the cylinder
completely. You might try turning it the other direction as well. (You
probably already tried this.) A slight kick back on shut off can destroy a
timing belt/gear in short order causing an engine to seize.

BTW, this could happen to any make or model even an F150. One of the reasons
I like my 79 Ford so well is that the engine is mostly cast iron, as in no
aluminum heads.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:32:52 -0800


Only thing that comes to mind right now is hydrostatic lock.  You may have
had a coolant leak without knowing it and after sitting so long one cylinder
filled up with coolant or even just got enough in it to hit the top before
the valves opened.  If you have pulled all the plugs and tried to turn it
over then forget what I just said but if not, pull all the plugs and try it.

If you mechanic has not pulled all the plugs.....hire a wrecker and get your
truck away from him before he really hurts something........

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> sat for six weeks and the engine will not turn, even with a pry bar. This
> truck is too good to trash and at least I could sell it if I can get it
> running. The mechanic wants $2000 for a rebuild (which I don't have) and I
> am not convinced it needs that, anyway. My F100 is running fine (FTE
> content), but getting ready to redo the exhaust system.
>
> Thanks,
> Virgil


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:36:57 -0600
Subject: Re: ford plugs
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>



> Theoretically, no but you never know.  Anti-seize is not a very good
> conductor but when you torque the plugs to 18# or so there should be some
> serious metal to metal contact so I wouldn't think it would be a problem.
> Try it and see.  A little brake cleaner will fix it if it doesn't work :-)

>
>> Do you use anti-sieze on the plugs?  Seems like a good idea,
>> steel plugs in
>> an aluminum head but would it interfere with the electrical connection?
>>

When I have had trouble with the tapered seat spark plugs it has always been
rattling out of the hole not getting stuck. What kind of 79 or earlier Ford
light truck engine has stock aluminum heads?

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:38:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Only thing that comes to mind right now is hydrostatic lock.

Dang, Gary. Great minds run in the same path?

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 08:43:32 -0800


Some refer to it as a path, while others call it a ditch. ;0)

-----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone [mailto:jlagrone ford-trucks.com]

> Only thing that comes to mind right now is hydrostatic lock.

Dang, Gary. Great minds run in the same path?

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 11:42:14 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: 9" traction-loc clutches/steels


Howdy-

Ok, I dropped in the traction-loc axle into my '67 last weekend.  (
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ceoweb.mts.kent.edu/~mustang/67axle3.jpg )  I figure the axle to
have close to 100k miles on it, and the clutches in the differential to be
burnt up pretty good as it only will break both loose in a straight line,
and as soon as a turn is initiated, the one tires stops and the other kicks.

How many of you guys have replaced the diff clutches/steels, and where did
you buy them?  How much did it cost, and is this something that I can do (I
have pretty good mechanical skills).   Do you have to reload the
pinion/ring etc, or can it be done while in the 3rd member?

Thanks-

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ceoweb.mts.kent.edu/~mustang


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 11:42:14 EST
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40

In a message dated 3/13/2001 8:40:18 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rsouther alldata.com writes:


> Some refer to it as a path, while others call it a ditch. ;0)
>
>

I like to think I operate outside of any confines, be them paths, ditches, or
even the realm of the sane............

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 12:18:24 -0500
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40


Thanks for all the great advice, guys. That is why I asked on this
list. I don't think the mechanic took out the plugs and I already have it
back at home after I heard the $2000 price tag. I did not do that before I
took it to him because I thought the problem was something I was missing in
the ignition circuits. I always do my own work until I can't handle
something and this one has me mystified. I was hoping it was something
obivious that I just missed. I will try all your suggestions and report
back.

I love this list.

Virgil

> Some refer to it as a path, while others call it a ditch. ;0)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John LaGrone [mailto:jlagrone ford-trucks.com]
>
> > Only thing that comes to mind right now is hydrostatic lock.
>
> Dang, Gary. Great minds run in the same path?
>
> -- John
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: ford plugs
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:06:37 -0800


>
> > Theoretically, no but you never know.  Anti-seize is not a very good
> > conductor but when you torque the plugs to 18# or so there
> should be some
> > serious metal to metal contact so I wouldn't think it would
> be a problem.
> > Try it and see.  A little brake cleaner will fix it if it
> doesn't work :-)
>
> >
> >> Do you use anti-sieze on the plugs?  Seems like a good idea,
> >> steel plugs in
> >> an aluminum head but would it interfere with the
> electrical connection?
> >>
>
> When I have had trouble with the tapered seat spark plugs it
> has always been
> rattling out of the hole not getting stuck. What kind of 79
> or earlier Ford
> light truck engine has stock aluminum heads?
>
> -- John
>

Well,..... Aftermarket?  Sorry I didn't post the complete thought.  Someone
before me had mentioned the extended life spark plugs used in today's
engines.  My local Ford dealer's service manager doesn't recommend leaving
the plugs in as long as the book says.  He claims that in my location
(Maine) with road salt the spark plugs can sieze and  damage the threads in
the head.  I was wondering if the problem was actually due to the dissimilar
metals over extended time and could be prevented with anti-sieze.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Points and condenser: Round 2
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:06:39 -0800


Not to start another war.  Well, maybe, we had such fun last time. :-)  I
had a problem the other day with my garden tractor.  (Stick with me here).
The fool thing has automotive points, coil and condenser.  (14 horse Kohler
motor.  Think it uses GM ignition components but they're so generic who can
tell).  Well it would idle fine but when I was plowing into the 2 feet of
wet snow I was trying to blow off my drive the motor would load up and not
run right, missing sputtering and after(back) firing.  (Mom look at the
pretty flames).  Anyway I thought water in gas, loose head, or ignition.
Since ignition was easiest started there.  Checked connections at first they
looked good.  On closer inspection the condenser wire was loose in the
condenser.  Didn't fall out was just loose in the can.  SLIGHT tug and it
slid right out with no resistance.  Next day replaced the condenser and
problem solved.

FTE: Someone in the previous round had mentioned that the condensor was for
static suppression and not needed for the engine to run.  He had
disconnected the condenser and his engine had continued running.  Well, in
my recent experience that same thing happened.  The engine would idle fine
but when put under load at full power it didn't have a reliable spark to run
it.  Now if the truck had electronic ignition and the condenser like thing
was mounted near the voltage regulator I suspect that the true condenser is
incorporated in the ignition module and the can mounted near the voltage
regulator (is on my truck anyway) really is for radio noise suppression.

Anyway, just rambling thoughts that might help someone trying to fix a miss
under load.  Replace points and condenser, might help.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Siezed engine & WD 40
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:06:40 -0800


>
> Thanks for all the great advice, guys. That is why I
> asked on this
> list. I don't think the mechanic took out the plugs and I
> already have it
> back at home after I heard the $2000 price tag. I did not do ....


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