Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Mon, 12 Mar 2001 16:14:48 -0500 (EST)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 16:14:48 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #80
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61-79-list Digest Mon, 12 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 080

In This Issue:
Late model 5 speed manual
Disc brake conversions
Re: Ford Plugs
balance
'68-'69 instrument panel
Re: Disc brake conversions
Re: balance
Carb ID (Part 2)
Re: ford plugs
Re: Changing bed on '67
Re: Carb ID (Part 2)
Re: Carb ID (Part 2)
Re: Carb ID (Part 2)
Re: Carb ID (Part 2)
Re: Carb ID (Part 2)
Re: Carb ID (Part 2)
power window kit
Re: power window kit
Re: power window kit
Re: balance
Rusted bolts etc
Re: Rear brakes 1968 F-250
Re: Fees for Lists

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "TimS" <tsherva prismnet.com>
Subject: Late model 5 speed manual
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 23:46:55 -0800


Hey all

anyone know how tiresome it is to get a late model truck speed
to mate to an FE 352

Thanks as always
Tim
tsherva prismnet.com

------------------------------

From: "TimS" <tsherva prismnet.com>
Subject: Disc brake conversions
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 23:46:54 -0800



OK I'm stumped I read the article on the website about converting
drum to disc and the note about 65 & 66 trucks.  Could someone
please explain to me why I need spindles from a 74 and not other
years.  The article doesn't say why???  Not a bunch of 74's in the
bone yard with parts left let alone disc brake parts!!!!!

I'm trying to get what I need in one trip to the yard.

Any and as much info is always appreciated

Tim
66 f100 (daughters truck)
looking for a 65-66 f250

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 03:09:52 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Ford Plugs


At 12:06 AM 3/12/01 -0500, you wrote:
>I try to use the ACCEL   U-GROOVE  plugs in my Fords.   Same principal as
>the split fire plugs only cheaper price. Not much noticable increase in
>performance but the gas mileage is better.

Yeah, the week I bought my truck I went to Advance Auto.  They had a set of
8 Accel U-Groove plugs for my truck on special for $0.50 a plug.  I
couldn't turn that down.  They have worked fine for 2 years now, never had
a spark problem, except the distributor drive pin shearing and the
distributor not moving.  Other than that, spark every time it is supposed to.

George Selby
70 F-100 Ranger XLT 400 C6
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 07:46:22 -0500
From: Gary Rubendall <gsruben infocom.com>
Subject: balance



OK guys, help me before I burn a perfectly good Ford truck to the
ground. Here's the deal.
1980 302 block with original pistons
1985 crank
Harmonic balancer and flywheel to match the 1985 crank
I still have vibration above idle,so much that I don't really want to
drive it. Now that it's done a guy has told me that the crank and
pistons should not have been mixed. Is that true? There were 3 different
numbers for matching flywheels for the '85 crank but I haven't found
anyone who knows what the difference is in the three. I have one of
those 3 p/n's. I am convinced there is a balance problem. I've had 3
different motors in this truck, tried 5 different harmonic balancers and
4 different flywheels. Can you count the times this motor has been in
and out of the truck?
The truck is a 1964 CC F100 with 3 speed. I know there are enough engine
builders on this list to venture a guess on this.
Thanks guys,
Gary Rubendall
gsruben infocom.com

------------------------------

From: "Stephen Brown" <snoopy1 ford-trucks.net>
Subject: '68-'69 instrument panel
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 05:06:35 -0800

Hey Everyone,

  I just picked up a '69 F100 on Sunday,  the instrument panel is in bad shape,
I've got a nice one in my '68 and I would like to swap them out but they are a
bit different.  The '69 has idiot lights for the oil & alt.  but the '68 has guages.

Does any know what I will need to do to make the switch?  Do I need new sending units?
Will the wiring harness be the same?      Any info would be great.  :-)

Stephen Brown

71  F250   "Baby"
69  F100
68  F100  (parts truck)
94  Ranger Supercab 4.0


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:59:22 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversions


You don't need to use 74s.  You can use 73-79.  The author of
the supplement used 74s and did not make it clear that you
could use any 73-79.  Also, one of these days I'm going to
update the article to include the following:

Get the spindles with the i-beams still attached.  If the
spindles move well and the king pins seem to have been lubed
and maintained, you can just swap out the entire i-beam spindle
combo without worrying about hammering out the king-pins and
swapping just the spindles.  Its a lot less work, but personally
I'd still take the new spindles to a machine shop and have them
press out the king pins and replace them with a new set.  You'll
notice a BIG difference steering with new king pins (my wife
can actually turn the wheel my non-power steering truck).

Ken


>OK I'm stumped I read the article on the website about converting
>drum to disc and the note about 65 & 66 trucks.  Could someone
>please explain to me why I need spindles from a 74 and not other
>years.  The article doesn't say why???  Not a bunch of 74's in the
>bone yard with parts left let alone disc brake parts!!!!!
>
>I'm trying to get what I need in one trip to the yard.
>
>Any and as much info is always appreciated
>
>Tim
>66 f100 (daughters truck)
>looking for a 65-66 f250



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: balance
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:09:25 -0800


I know this is a really stupid question but does it vibrate in neutral or
just when moving down the road?  Is is possible that you have the wrong cam
in it?  Seems like it would not idle well either in that case though.  The
small blocks have several cam configurations which also change the firing
order.  You mention crank and pistons mixing and deck height come to mind
which also affects compression height or loction of the pin hole in the
piston.  If it's too low for the crank you will hit the head when you
increase the rpm or it will become more noticeable the faster you run it if
it is very slight.  If there is serious interferance you should be able to
hear it at idle.  These are all hypothetical since I'm not a small block
guy.  I don't know what changes were made to the 302 over the years but all
other engines did go through deck height changes etc. so this may be an
issue to consider.

I've never heard of a Detroit balanced small block but I suppose this is
possible and mixing parts then would be bad news but if all 302's are zero
balanced then you have some other problem such as wierd pistons etc..
Misfiring due to bad valve geometry will cause it to run rough and appear to
be vibrating too as will many other tune problems but usually you can hear
the mis timed firing in the sound of the engine when that happens.

A cracked or bent crank can cause vibration before it finally lets go too.
I know of one where the front snout was cracked and vibrated for a while and
suddenly the whole snout just fell off.  He had tried several different
dampers too.

One other possibility just occured to me and may not cause vibration but all
engines I know of have an offset wrist pin hole in the piston to prevent
slap and the piston must be oriented correctly.  Many rods also have a
special orientation which is required to make them line up corrctly.  Of all
these things the mixing of Detroit and zero balanced parts is the most
likely to cause serious vibration but not sure if it is even an issue since
I'm not a small block person.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> OK guys, help me before I burn a perfectly good Ford truck to the
> ground. Here's the deal.
> 1980 302 block with original pistons
> 1985 crank
> Harmonic balancer and flywheel to match the 1985 crank
> I still have vibration above idle,so much that I don't really want to
> drive it. Now that it's done a guy has told me that the crank and
> pistons should not have been mixed.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 06:13:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Carb ID (Part 2)


First I want to thank you all for your help with my unknown Holley
carburetor?  It turns out it is a 4160 that was originally used on a 75-76
351W in a police car according to holley.  It is only 600 cfm and its
really too far gone to be rebuildable.  Apparently there are some internal
cracks/leaks that have been band-aided to keep it going but it really
needs replacing.

So...  What do you all recommend that I put on top of this engine?  To
refresh your memory its a '79 F-350 with a 460 / C6 combo.  Holley
recommended a replacement 4160 series carb as a stock replacement or the
670 cfm Street Avenger as a performance upgrade.  I'd like to get an
electric choke instead of the current hot-air setup and it'll need to work
well with the C6 automatic tranny.  I've got a Carter 650 cfm carb on my
Bronco that I liked well enough before I started rebuilding it but I'm not
sure what exactly will fit on the 460 intake correctly.  There are two
different styles of 4-bbl intakes, correct?  Spreadbore and squarebore.
Can I mix and match carbs or does the current intake neccessitate a
certain type of carb?

Well I guess that's enough questions for now.  Any and all advice would be
greatly appreciated as I'm going to be ordering a replacement carb
hopefully in the next couple days.

Thanks,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty"

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: ford plugs
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 06:31:24 -0800




>
> I have always run Ford plugs in my crown vics and
> trucks. Call me
> superstituious but never had a problem--as long as you change
> them before
> that ridiculous recommendation in the manual. My mechanic
> friend always uses
> Ford plugs in ford cars and trucks he works on--swears by
> this policy--even
> though otherwise he is a Ch# guy
> > ------------------------------
> >

Do you use anti-sieze on the plugs?  Seems like a good idea, steel plugs in
an aluminum head but would it interfere with the electrical connection?

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Changing bed on '67
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 06:48:19 -0800


Okay, this is weird.  I sent this out like a week ago and here it is
again...

Groundhog Day!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: Southerland, Rich [mailto:rsouther alldata.com]
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 6:37 AM
To: 'ford list'
Subject: [61-79-list] Changing bed on '67


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Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
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----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------

Hello all,

Putting a new(er) bed on dad's 67 SB.  Need to get the swap done in an
afternoon and figured the old bed bolts would be bad, so wanted to have new
ones on hand.

Does anyone know what size (and how many) we'll need?  I know I've seen them
in catalogs, but we want to try and get it done this weekend so we'll have
to purchase them locally.

Also, is there a plug for the taillight harness somewhere or is it one piece
all the way?

Anyone in the Sacramento area want the old one (needs bed side replaced)?
If we had the time and place to work, we'd make a matching trailer...

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------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 11:52:23 EST
Subject: Re: Carb ID (Part 2)

Well Id shy away from the new Holley Series, I've read a few articles, and
they dont seem to be quite up to snuff.  Id go and get a single feed holley
650 with vacuum secondaries and an electric choke.  Should work real nice for
ya, seeins how that 460 is stock.  Now if you ever go and build that 460 to
its potential, a 750 is a minimum requirement.  And I say minimum, I remember
old sleddog referring to the 750 Holley he was runnin as nothing but a
restriction!  Now one thing I wont go into to much detail with is the
quadrajet setup.  Ive never done it, but if your gonna do any sort of four
wheelin, the stock Q-jet setup is superior to any other carb setup out there.
Some other list members should have more info on that.  Also Id stay away
from Carter.  They seem to be a pretty good carb out of the box, but Carters
are responsible for thaat incredibly long cranking time most dodges have
before they start.  Good luck, and keep us filled in.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 11:30:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Carb ID (Part 2)
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> but Carters
> are responsible for thaat incredibly long cranking time most dodges have
> before they start.

How so? Tell us more.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 12:38:29 EST
Subject: Re: Carb ID (Part 2)

In a message dated 3/12/2001 9:28:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:


> How so? Tell us more.
>
>

My understanding is a lil vague, but I'll see what I can do.  I've always
noticed my buddies Mopars took forever to start, between 15 and 20 seconds.
He always told me thats just how dodges are, and I accepted that.  Fast
forward to a Peterson 4wheel mag a few months ago where they did a carb test
with 4 new carbs right out of the box.  And they mentioned that even when
warm, the carter took a lont time to start after shutdown or a stall out.
This got me to thinking, so I started asking around, and no one seemed to
offer any info till my neighbor, a die hard dodge/carter fan, mentioned that
he was never able to get a Carter to work on a 351c he had built for a
buddies 71 Mustang.  Apparently the cam was fairly radical, but not to the
point it shouldnt have run.  Slapped on a Holley, and it ran 200% better at
idle.  What we kinda boiled it down to is that Carters dont work well with a
low vacuum signal, like what you find during cranking, and with rad cams.
Made sence, and we decided not to pursue it further.  I know its not exactly
proof postitive, but does seem to fit the scenario for every carter I've come
across.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 12:46:17 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Carb ID (Part 2)


JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:

> My understanding is a lil vague, but I'll see what I can do.  I've always
> noticed my buddies Mopars took forever to start, between 15 and 20 seconds.
> He always told me thats just how dodges are, and I accepted that.  Fast
> forward to a Peterson 4wheel mag a few months ago where they did a carb test
> with 4 new carbs right out of the box.  And they mentioned that even when
> warm, the carter took a lont time to start after shutdown or a stall out.
> This got me to thinking, so I started asking around, and no one seemed to
> offer any info till my neighbor, a die hard dodge/carter fan, mentioned that
> he was never able to get a Carter to work on a 351c he had built for a
> buddies 71 Mustang.  Apparently the cam was fairly radical, but not to the
> point it shouldnt have run.  Slapped on a Holley, and it ran 200% better at
> idle.  What we kinda boiled it down to is that Carters dont work well with a
> low vacuum signal, like what you find during cranking, and with rad cams.
> Made sence, and we decided not to pursue it further.  I know its not exactly
> proof postitive, but does seem to fit the scenario for every carter I've come
> across.

My carter 625 starts immediately (over and over and over again) when
engine is warm on a mildy built 400 with healthy cam (pulls about 15 in
HG at idle), unless heavily off-camber where it won't run at all. It
overall ran much better before I got mud in it :-)

                                              OX


--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 12:49:11 EST
Subject: Re: Carb ID (Part 2)

In a message dated 3/12/2001 9:47:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
luxjo thecore.com writes:


> My carter 625 starts immediately (over and over and over again) when
> engine is warm on a mildy built 400 with healthy cam (pulls about 15 in
> HG at idle), unless heavily off-camber where it won't run at all. It
> overall ran much better before I got mud in it :-)
>
>                                                OX
>
>
>

Makes me wonder whats been going wrong with my buddies carbs.  :)  Thanks for
the input, like I said it wasnt exactly scientific, just my backyard
understanding.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 11:51:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Carb ID (Part 2)
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> I know its not exactly
> proof postitive, but does seem to fit the scenario for every carter I've come
> across.

Thanks, Darrell. Makes sense to me. I have made the same observation about
every 318 I have ever seen since pollution control. I always wondered why. I
project that Carter changed some spec to meet pollution requirements for
mopar and the slow start is the result. Interesting. I had a 61 Chrysler
Newport with a 2 barrel Carter on a 361 and it did not suffer this malady.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 12:53:43 EST
Subject: Re: Carb ID (Part 2)

Hey I just came up with somethin else Ox.  Your runnin a 400, and the biggest
motor Ive run a carter on (625s BTW) was 360's .  I know vacuum is vacuum,
but even with identical vacuum readings, your 400 is still pulling more air
through the same carb.  Maybe this can account for your 400 having better
luck than my buddies 273's and 360's.  what ya think?

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 12:59:24 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Carb ID (Part 2)




JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hey I just came up with somethin else Ox.  Your runnin a 400, and the biggest
> motor Ive run a carter on (625s BTW) was 360's .  I know vacuum is vacuum,
> but even with identical vacuum readings, your 400 is still pulling more air
> through the same carb.  Maybe this can account for your 400 having better
> luck than my buddies 273's and 360's.  what ya think?
>

Maybe, but I'd put my money on some other factor (even carb tinkering
by dodge) as to why dodge motors take so long to start. The carter
started just as well when my 400 was a stockish 351M :-).

                                  OX


> Darrell & Tweety
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 13:05:48 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: power window kit



Hey all

The window regulator is worn out (beyond repair) on the drivers door of
my big 78. I'm thinking of adding PW's to my "steet" 79 and use those
man regulators for by offroad beast. Someone told me either electro lift
or LMC has a kit for this. I know one guy that used 87 bronco PW stuff,
but had to fab some parts (not really a concern if need be). Any info on
the kits?

                             OX


--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: power window kit
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 10:12:29 -0800


I'm pretty sure on these kits the stock regulator is used, so if yours is
trashed, it's gonna have to be fixed anyway.

-----Original Message-----
From: James Oxley [mailto:luxjo thecore.com]
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 10:06 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] power window kit


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------


Hey all

The window regulator is worn out (beyond repair) on the drivers door of
my big 78. I'm thinking of adding PW's to my "steet" 79 and use those
man regulators for by offroad beast. Someone told me either electro lift
or LMC has a kit for this. I know one guy that used 87 bronco PW stuff,
but had to fab some parts (not really a concern if need be). Any info on
the kits?

                             OX


--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)
=============================================================
To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 13:14:49 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: power window kit




"Southerland, Rich" wrote:
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> I'm pretty sure on these kits the stock regulator is used, so if yours is
> trashed, it's gonna have to be fixed anyway.
>

I had feeling that might be the case, but was hoping otherwise. Anyone
have a trashed/rotted out drivers door they'd be willing to gut the
regulator out of?

                              OX


> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Oxley [mailto:luxjo thecore.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 10:06 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] power window kit
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
> touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Hey all
>
>  The window regulator is worn out (beyond repair) on the drivers door of
> my big 78. I'm thinking of adding PW's to my "steet" 79 and use those
> man regulators for by offroad beast. Someone told me either electro lift
> or LMC has a kit for this. I know one guy that used 87 bronco PW stuff,
> but had to fab some parts (not really a concern if need be). Any info on
> the kits?
>
>                               OX
>
> --
> 78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
> boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
> mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
> 79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
> SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
> 79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
> 19.3 40, not puling boat)
> 86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
> 90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
> 95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)
> =============================================================
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> Please remove this footer when replying.
> =============================================================
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> Please remove this footer when replying.

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 13:16:23 EST
Subject: Re: balance


In a message dated 03/12/2001 9:07:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:

<< I've never heard of a Detroit balanced small block but I suppose this is
possible and mixing parts then would be bad news but if all 302's are zero
balanced then you have some other problem such as wierd pistons etc.. >>

I have rebuilt three 302s and all three used the Detroit balance method.
There is a counterbalance weight attached to the flywheel and one is cast
into the harmonic balancer. One thing I noticed in piston differences is the
dished or flat top types.

Rollie

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Rusted bolts etc
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 09:58:39 -0600


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------
Tom H. writes: snip>>Tried a bunch of things then started whaling on it with
a cold chisel and a 3 lb short handle sledge.  Hit the bolt head off center
and IT TURNED.  Was able to get it completly out!.  <<

Some folks have all the luck.


>>Got 1 head off and the ridge at the top of the cylinder is minimal.  About
.0025.  Question, can I just remove the pistons without reaming this small
ridge?<<

I've had good success doing this with this small ridge.  Just be careful and tap
them lightly past the ridge and most likely all will be well..

>>Next question,  Anyone try removing rusted bolts by putting a weld bead on
the head and then wrenching on it right after it cooled down (just off red)?
How well does it work?<<

Had great success doing this very thing..

I'm in digest mode and have had a terrible virus for the past few days is reason for
being so late with response.


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 10:53:12 -0600
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Rear brakes 1968 F-250


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
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Robert, Gary,

>The leak in my right rear brake cylinder has finally
>gotten to the point where I have to do something about
>it  - 2-9/16".  Can anyone confirm this nut size for me?
>The truck is a camper special, if that matters.
>
>Aren't there two nuts on these like on the 44's?  I remember a bend tab
>washer but also remember that that nut was very tight because it came up
>solid on something but can't remember the details right now???
>

I have to do the same job (very) soon on the same truck ('67 F250 camper
special, D60) Whoever can help me out with the proper procedure, please do.
I seem to remember Gary's explanation being mostly on target, but torque
specs and confirmation would be nice. I couldn't find it in my '67 shop
manual.  Also, I am missing the axle tag. So, any help with brake shoes
(like the proper width), brake cylinders, gaskets, suppliers, part numbers,
etc. would be appreciated. I was able to track down a new set of tab
washers. Let me know if anyone needs the info on them. Between us we should
write this up for those that follow.

Doss Halsey
'67 F250 Camper Special - Leaking right-rear brake cylinder.

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From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: Fees for Lists
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 10:01:19 -0500


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
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----------------------------------------------------------
> Anyway, while I and others might not mind paying for this wonderful
> experience, I suspect charging for it may ultimately stop list growth
> and even cause its untimely end...

I tend to agree.  The family of mail lists that grew from LISTSERV
base were always free.  I think a fee for list usage would not only
deter new members, but I suspect a number of current users
would leave as well.  Regardless, there are other ways to support
this excellent list.

Join ClubFTE !  Not only does it help support these lists, but you
get a spiffy membership card, and even a T-shirt (btw: great job on
the design of them).  Can you imagine the revenue generated if just
50% of the list members also signed up for a ClubFTE membership ?

Also, by buying from the FTE online store, not only does it help
directly, but it also shows potential advertisers that they have an
active audience.
Even direct contributions if you feel the spirit move you to do so. ....


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