Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Wed, 10 Jan 2001 15:26:44 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 15:26:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #8
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 09 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 008

In This Issue:
Re: Some info from a few years back
Re: Some info from a few years back
Re: Some info from a few years back
No Post
Re: '79 F250 4x4
Re: Dual diaphram
Re: Aspen front end
Steve Delanty's Brighter Brights, Whiter Whites
Re: HP Books
Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights
Re: weird cut-out on my 79
rusty '79 F250
Re: weird cut-out on my 79
Brighter Brights
Wiring
Re: DuraSpark Large Cap Conversion (was Plugs and hard st
Re: Wiring
Re: STUMPER
Re: STUMPER
Re: Dual diaphram
dual diaphragm
Delanty's tech article on lights
1971 F250 transfer case question
Re: gas tank options
ADMIN: Duplicate postings
Re: Plugs and hard starts.
Re: Plugs and hard starts.
Re: Excel wires
dual diaphram vacuum dist
good plug wires
Re: Plugs and hard starts.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 13:12:39 +0000
From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens cswnet.com>
Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back


Chris,

That is what I had hoped for, but; when I try to access it I get the
"404 - document not found" response.  No longer on the server.

Thanks anyway, but I'm going to have to get it from someone who
saved the information and still has it.

Ken


At 05:40 PM 1/9/01 +0000, you wrote:

>That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section
>
>Chris Worley
>
>
> >From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens cswnet.com>
> >Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> >To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> >Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back
> >Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:29:59 +0000
> >
> >
> >All
> >
> >A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article
> >called "whiter whites, brighter brights".  I am now going to do that same
> >mod
> >to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions.  I
> >need
> >the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights"
> >and
> >putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights
> >are turned off.  This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't
> >recall
> >if there was any text about it or not.
> >
> >Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would
> >appreciate it.
> >
> >Thanks,  Ken
> >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 13:46:37 -0600
Subject: Re: echo
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


I keep getting multiple messages from the list. When it included the one
from wish I knew it wasn't the user.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:54:20 -0900


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.gci.net/~bronco78/tech.htm

Will take you to my tech site where there is a write up on this.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens cswnet.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:23 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back


>
>All
>
>A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article
>called "whiter whites, brighter brights".  I am now going to do that same
mod
>to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions.  I
need
>the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights"
and
>putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights
>are turned off.  This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't
>recall
>if there was any text about it or not.
>
>Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would
>appreciate it.
>
>Thanks,  Ken
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:56:54 -0900


Yes but the link is currently dead

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Worley <cworley76 hotmail.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 8:40 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Some info from a few years back


>
>That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section
>
>Chris Worley
>
>
>>From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens cswnet.com>
>>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>>Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back
>>Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:29:59 +0000
>>
>>
>>All
>>
>>A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech
article
>>called "whiter whites, brighter brights".  I am now going to do that same
>>mod
>>to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions.  I
>>need
>>the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights"
>>and
>>putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights
>>are turned off.  This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't
>>recall
>>if there was any text about it or not.
>>
>>Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would
>>appreciate it.
>>
>>Thanks,  Ken
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 14:03:30 -0600
From: Al Evitts <albert brightok.net>
Subject: No Post


Ken:  on a post I submitted I got amessage that it was forwarded to list
moderator for containg spam.  this was Monday the 8th.  ??????.

Al

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: '79 F250 4x4
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:12:07 -0800


I don't have any titles I can recommend but someone else on the list might.
Or check with a company that I think is calle HP Books on the web.  Anybody
got an address for them?

Tom H
>
>
> Tom,
>
> Could you please list a couple of titles/author of the books you
> mention, particularly those covering rust repair?
>
> Thanks,
> Virgil
> > There are several good books on body work that will cover
> this.  I have an
> > article from Classic Trucks that gives a good overview on
> the subject.  It
> > is not terribly difficult but does require special tools
> and some practice
> > in how to use them.
> >
>

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Dual diaphram
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:12:01 -0800



>
> Tom H. writes:  >>  The nipple on the front of the unit is
> the advance diaphram.
> It should be connected to the ported vacuum point on your
> carburetor.  The
> nipple closest to the body of the distributor that points up
> is the retard
> diaphram.  It should be connected to manifold vacuum.<<
>
> Doesn't the vacuum to the dist come through a "tree" mounted
> on the t'stat
> housing and the vacuum is switched by the temp change???  One
>  line in
> and two lines out???
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.
>
>

Yes, there are many applications that have that thermostatic switch (tree).
That switch however has to sources -- 1 ported (from carb) and 1 manifold,
and one output to the advance mechanism.  I don't think this would be used
in conjunction with a dual diaphram advance unit because then there would be
a case (engine hot and decelerating) when manifold vacuum would be applied
to the advance diaphram and to the retard diaprham.  If it was set up though
I would expect the advance diaphram to 'win' because it is larger.

Tom H

Tom H

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 13:27:08 -0700
From: "Richard Currit" <RCURRI state.wy.us>
Subject: Re: Aspen front end

Sorry about this message being on a dead thread.  But a while back
somebody was discussing putting an Aspen front end under their Ford
truck.  If I remember right the reason for using this front end was the
transverse mounted torsion bars.  Just the other day it dawned on me
that I should add a little info.  The transverse mounted torsion bar was
also used on the MoPar "M" bodies.  This includes but isn't limited to
the mid-'80s Dodge Diplomats.  Just another source for them.
Additionally, a lot of these were police fleet vehicles (I know this as
I also own a '84 Diplomat CopCar).  Watch any mid '80's cop show and you
will see hundreds of these.  You can identify them in the Junkyard
because they will have a "S" in the Vin.  These might be better suited
for under a truck because they came with oversized torsion and sway
bars, as well as 11" disc brakes.  They also have a lot of other trick
goodies.  For instance in mine there are 4 radiators; Normal radiator,
transmission radiator, engine oil radiator and a power steering pump
radiator (would be great for rock crawling).  Sorry for not being too
Ford related, but if somebody is still looking to do this swap you might
want to check it out.  Also, MoPar made far more Diplomats than they did
Aspens so they should be more available.  FWIW.
High Plains Richard
'72 F-100, 300 I6

------------------------------

From: "Phil Clements" <crusader arias.net>
Subject: Steve Delanty's Brighter Brights, Whiter Whites
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:57:47 -0800


Or whatever he called the tech article ;-)  Sorry guys, the links (all 3) to
his site no longer work, I was just there over the weekend trying to find
them myself.  I mentioned this upgrade to some folks at The Ford Falcon News
(TFFN) and went to verify the bookmarked link.  Fortunately, I printed out
the entire article.  Ken, I'll see if I can provide you what you need.

Phil Clements
'72 F-250 4X4 429/C6


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 16:08:51 -0800
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: HP Books


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cyberauto.com/hpbooks.htm

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.books4hotrods.com/

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.magnumforce.com/store4/books_racing.htm




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 15:33:04 -0600
From: "Jim Pointer" <jfpointer kansascity.com>
Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights


> From: "Christopher Worley" <cworley76 hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back
> Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 17:40:47
>
>
> That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section
>
> Chris Worley
>
>
> >From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens cswnet.com>
> >Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> >To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> >Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back
> >Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:29:59 +0000
> >
> >
> >All
> >
> >A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article
> >called "whiter whites, brighter brights".  I am now going to do that same
> >mod
> >to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions.  I
> >need
> >the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights"
> >and
> >putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights
> >are turned off.  This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't
> >recall
> >if there was any text about it or not.
> >
> >Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would
> >appreciate it.
> >
> >Thanks,  Ken

Actually, the link from the FTE homepage is broken.  It seems that Steve's pages on sonic.net no longer exist.  Maybe if someone does have a copy, Ken Payne could stick it out there again.

Jim Pointer
Kansas City, MO
1966 F100


______________________________________________________
Get your free web email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kansascity.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 16:26:02 -0500
From: John Borek <jpb222 psu.edu>
Subject: Re: weird cut-out on my 79


I have a 76' f-100 with a 302 and had the same problem over a yead ago, I put a junkyard ignition module in it and it ran fine until this christmas when I blew the engine.  Now I have to deal with the problems of making the (new)used 302 work as good as the old one did!


------------------------------

From: "Travis Johnson" <flatheadv8 hotmail.com>
Subject: rusty '79 F250
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 15:13:06 -0700



For the bedliner, Herculiner might work, I wish that I would have used it.
Iwouldn't suggest using the Duplicolor kit unless you want to redo it after
every time you put something in your bed. I sanded my bed with 80grit on the
sides and front, and 36grit on the floor before rolling the product in and
itstill flakes, peels, scratches, and fades. The only reason I used
Duplicolor was for the $50 price tag.

>Thanks for the info. I have an idea on how to get rid of the rust. The
>rustisn't reallly bad yet. It isn't putting holes on the inside of the >bed
yet, but on the outside right above the wheels. I am also >eventually going
to put in a paint in bedliner. I am probably going to >go with Herculiner
butthere are others that I have seen around, which >is best do you think.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com[1]


--- Links ---
  1 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: weird cut-out on my 79
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 18:09:20 -0500


Try the suggestions offered by the other list
members regarding a fuel system problem; this
is the most likely reason for the cut out.  Rebuild
your carburetor.  The kits only cost around $20 or
so, and rebuilding a carb is pretty easy.  The gaskets
harden up after years of sitting, and gasoline evaporates
and leaves a varnish in the passages.
Another possibility is the ignition module.  If you have
an extra known to be good duraspark ignition module,
swap it in and give it a try.  A bad ignition module can
cause the symptoms that you describe.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 16:00:25 -0800
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Brighter Brights


Chris Worley, cworley76 hotmail.com wrote:
> That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section

Yea, but they're dead links.  Ken ought to take 'em down, unless
SOMEONE recorded them.  Anybody?

-M-

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

From: Fordman9901 webtv.net
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:54:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Wiring


Could someone please tell me what color wire go's to the cig lighter
someone cut it or done something else with it i would like to get it to
work again  thanks


77 F250 4x4 highboy


------------------------------

From: "Ken Schneider" <fordemail sunsetcoast.com>
Subject: Re: DuraSpark Large Cap Conversion (was Plugs and hard st
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:42:12 -0500


I attempted to do this once, and the 302 wires were too short...

FWIW

Ken Schneider

68 F100 Ranger 360/C6/3.25NL (Storage 'til spring)
88 CV 5.0/AOD


>
>My next question is DuraSpark related, I've got the stuff to go to it, and
will
>be making the move sometime soon (only been saying that for a year, but
this
>has motivated me to get a little more spark in there) ... in the meantime
can
>I run the larger cap/rotor combo with the 5.0 plug wires ?  I hate the fit
of
>the replacement wires these days and the 90° boots/fittings on the later
>model caps is really nice, but I'm afraid the cap may rely on the higher
energy
>of the ds system to fire it ... anyone know if this is really the case or
not
>?
>
>Just my $.02
>wish


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 22:10:27 EST
Subject: Re: Wiring




------------------------------

From: "Keith" <a2jkeith gci.net>
Subject: Re: STUMPER
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 18:47:12 -0900



-----Original Message-----
From: Harvey, Blaine <HarveyB sgc.gc.ca>
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com' <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, January 08, 2001 1:53 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] weird cut-out on my 79


>
>Here is one that has me stumped.
>
>My 79 302 will periodically (once every two days or so) just cut out while
>driving along. I then put it in neutral pump the gas, start it and away it
>goes.
><SNIP>
Well I am having the same problem of sorts. I have a 71 F250 and if I dont
plug that sucker in when I go to fire it up in the morning ( after
ritualistic 9 pumps then fire, and then 9 pumps and fire again) the doggone
thing cuts out and misfires and everything. I need a web site to get the
electronic conversion stuff for the dizzy OR let me know which electronic
distributor I can just swap in there as a direct fit and then how to wire it
properly. I would rather go with a new distributor and not have to worry
about everything else, so if anyone has any ideas maybe you can let me know.
I am sick of these points and condenser.. a real pain :o) Also what would be
yalls opinion from going from a 750 edelbrock, down to a two barrel carb? I
really am spending too much fuel on the 4 barrel, and, I dont really need
the extra two I have more then enough torque, I am not running a race car
here, I just want a dependable 4wd that if it has to can pull a load and not
drop dead doin it. So, if yall got any ideas let me know.
Keith
71 F250 Tbird powered 4wd



------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: STUMPER
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:56:25 -0800



> Also what would be
> yalls opinion from going from a 750 edelbrock, down to a two barrel carb?
I
> really am spending too much fuel on the 4 barrel, and, I dont really need
> the extra two I have more then enough torque, I am not running a race car
> here, I just want a dependable 4wd that if it has to can pull a load and
not
> drop dead doin it. So, if yall got any ideas let me know.
> Keith
> 71 F250 Tbird powered 4wd
~~~~~~~~~~

   You didn't mention what size engine you have or your current MPG
readings. If it's a 390 CID then perhaps you might consider a 600 CFM 4V
carb (vacuum 2nd) instead of switching to a 2V. You should see better
throttle response and fuel mileage.


Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 01:41:50 EST
Subject: Re: Dual diaphram


In a message dated 01/09/2001 3:21:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com writes:

<< I don't think this would be used
in conjunction with a dual diaphragm advance unit because then there would be
a case (engine hot and decelerating) when manifold vacuum would be applied
to the advance diaphragm and to the retard diaphragm >>

I have a 1972 351Cleveland with this setup. It came from the factory that
way. It has become activated on an occasion or two and the engine RPM
increases noticeably.

The same thing happens from just off idle position of the carburetor. You
will have both sides of the dual diaphragm with vacuum. The timing always
advances immediately on my engine while doing this.

Rollie

------------------------------

From: "gene gardner" <genegow hotmail.com>
Subject: dual diaphragm
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 01:53:27 -0600


<< Doesn't the vacuum to the dist come through a "tree" mounted on the
t'stat
housing and the vacuum is switched by the temp change???  One  line in
and two lines out???>>

Some 68-72 engines with a dual diaphragm setup (like my 300) also have a
"deceleration valve". This is inside an egg-sized plastic housing mounted on
a  bracket above the coil which "tees" into the vacuum line running from the
outer (advance) diaphragm to the carb. It eliminates backfiring during
deceleration by closing off the the carb vacuum line running to the advance
diaphragm of the dizzy and switching to the intake manifold vacuum ( thus
increasing the vacuum and aiding combustion).

Of course, one mechanic I used decided to bypass this valve altogether and I
can't say it ran any worse. Certainly doesn't backfire.

Texican Teacher --  1970 F100 shorty w 300-six


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 02:34:38 +0000
From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens cswnet.com>
Subject: Delanty's tech article on lights


All,

Thanks to everyone for their help locating some old info, especially
Phil Clements, who is sending me a copy of what I need.

It's good to be back on this list, it's been a couple of years.  I'm an
old Bronco addict and because of volume I relinquished this list.
Without explanation, I'm back and will try to behave myself. I usually
just sit back and listen anyhow.  Thanks again,  Ken


------------------------------

From: "Blake Barr" <humanhunter connectstar.net>
Subject: 1971 F250 transfer case question
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 06:32:54 -0700

Can anyone tell me which NP transfer case a 1971 F250 4x4 sports custom would have?


------------------------------

From: "Ken Schneider" <fordemail sunsetcoast.com>
Subject: Re: gas tank options
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:12:04 -0500


for a simple fix for gas fumes, replace the rubber hose that goes from the
tank to the filler neck, a $7.00 fix from either denniscarpenter or your
local parts store.  IF you go to your local parts store (chain stores don't
have it) take your existing one with you, and they can cut fuel line to fit.

I had the same problem in my 68... Still have the tank in the cab though...

Ken Schneider

68 F100 Ranger 360/C6/3.25NL

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Shelley Batty
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 9:26 PM
To: 61-79-List Ford-Trucks. Com
Subject: [61-79-list] gas tank options



I would like to get the fuel tank out of the cab of my 66 F250.  I'm getting
some fumes in the cab, and it just doesn't seem like a really great spot for
gasoline anyway.  I would like to swap in a tank that will fit between the
frame rails under the bed. Larger capacity would be nice as well.  Any
suggestions for donor vehicles, or a tank that will fit fairly easily?  I
think I saw on a web site somewhere that someone had install a 70's era
suburban tank in a 60's Ford, and that it was a good fit.  Was this someone
from the list, or does anybody know where to find this web page again?

Thanks for the help

Thom Batty
66 F250 Utility




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:20:54 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Duplicate postings


Are there users still experiencing duplicate postings?

Thanks,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: Plugs and hard starts.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 07:37:11 -0800 (PST)


wish wrote:
> I finally got the choke leaned out quite a bit and checked all the
> timing/points that you would normally check, everything was dead on,
> then I realized I hadn't touched the plugs in a while, though its
> only got 10K on it since the rebuild.

Bill, you are telling the story of my past couple of weeks.  I thought
I got the choke set right and was running pretty well for a while.  It
started idling rough again so I got some plugs as I also have 10K on
my motor.  My result was somewhat different than yours though because
one plug came out black and wet.  Compression check reveals 145-155 on
all but that cylinder which got 75.  I am thinking I have a burned
valve because before I put Sanderson headers on it I was fighting leaks.
Anyway, off comes the head when I get some time.  (work is killing me
right now)

I am also not happy with the Accel silicone plug wires.  I can't seem
to get them off the plugs without pulling the metal contact out of the
wire.  I guess is is because the contact is clamped onto the silicone
which is pretty soft.  Anybody have any suggestions for a good set of
wires that might be more durable?


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
in digest mode



------------------------------

From: "Ken Schneider" <fordemail sunsetcoast.com>
Subject: Re: Plugs and hard starts.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 12:13:11 -0500


I had your exact problem with the Accel Wires, I have since bit the bullet
and switched to MSD "blue" wires, which if memory serves me right run around
$50-60 a set.  Seems like they have a 5yr warranty against pull off.

Anyone have experience with DEMON carbs?


Ken Schneider
68 F100 Ranger 360/C6/3.25NL
88 CV 5.0/AOD

>I am also not happy with the Accel silicone plug wires.  I can't seem
>to get them off the plugs without pulling the metal contact out of the
>wire.  I guess is is because the contact is clamped onto the silicone
>which is pretty soft.  Anybody have any suggestions for a good set of
>wires that might be more durable?


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:17:28 -0800
From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: Excel wires


I have had problems with the excel wires not coming off after 10,000 miles because they were damaged by heat of the stock exhaust manifolds.  I dont remember having that problem with oem wires just the custom excel wires.  I wont be getting them any more.

Kenny


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: dual diaphram vacuum dist
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:17:48 -0600

Rollie writes:  >>The PVS switches the ported vacuum to the distributor advance over to
manifold vacuum when the engine temperature reaches around 235 degrees. This
will advance the timing and speed the engine up in order to help cool it
down. The vacuum supplied to the retard side of the dual diaphram is not
effected with this particular setup.  <<

OK..  Maybe you're correct in that it is 2 in and 1 out..  In that case where does
the line to the retard side of the dist come from??  If it comes from the ported
vacuum then wouldn't that negate any vacuum supplied to the adv side when it
is coming from ported??  Wouldn't the same be true if it comes from manifold
when the pvs directs the adv to be manifold??  Is one of the diaphram sides
larger than the other side so it overides the smaller side or something like that??
I'm not being controversal here, just trying to learn and understand.


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: good plug wires
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:28:57 -0600

I have the Accel 300+ race wires on my 390, they are great. They cost a lot ($75 or so) but they have very low resistance and have a lifetime warranty. They are 8.8 mm, I am very happy with mine. I got them from Summit Racing.

Garrett www.1966ford.com


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 14:23:59 EST
Subject: Re: Plugs and hard starts.


I just installed a set of Motor Craft Duraspark 8.5 mm wires on my mustang
when I converted it to Duraspark.  These wires were at least 15 yrs old, and ....


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