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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Wed, 10 Jan 2001 15:26:44 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 15:26:44 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 61-79-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #8 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Tue, 09 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 008 In This Issue: Re: Some info from a few years back Re: Some info from a few years back Re: Some info from a few years back No Post Re: '79 F250 4x4 Re: Dual diaphram Re: Aspen front end Steve Delanty's Brighter Brights, Whiter Whites Re: HP Books Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights Re: weird cut-out on my 79 rusty '79 F250 Re: weird cut-out on my 79 Brighter Brights Wiring Re: DuraSpark Large Cap Conversion (was Plugs and hard st Re: Wiring Re: STUMPER Re: STUMPER Re: Dual diaphram dual diaphragm Delanty's tech article on lights 1971 F250 transfer case question Re: gas tank options ADMIN: Duplicate postings Re: Plugs and hard starts. Re: Plugs and hard starts. Re: Excel wires dual diaphram vacuum dist good plug wires Re: Plugs and hard starts. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 13:12:39 +0000 From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back Chris, That is what I had hoped for, but; when I try to access it I get the "404 - document not found" response. No longer on the server. Thanks anyway, but I'm going to have to get it from someone who saved the information and still has it. Ken At 05:40 PM 1/9/01 +0000, you wrote: >That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section > >Chris Worley > > > >From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens > >Reply-To: 61-79-list > >To: 61-79-list > >Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back > >Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:29:59 +0000 > > > > > >All > > > >A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article > >called "whiter whites, brighter brights". I am now going to do that same > >mod > >to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions. I > >need > >the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights" > >and > >putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights > >are turned off. This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't > >recall > >if there was any text about it or not. > > > >Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would > >appreciate it. > > > >Thanks, Ken > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 13:46:37 -0600 Subject: Re: echo From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone I keep getting multiple messages from the list. When it included the one from wish I knew it wasn't the user. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:54:20 -0900 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.gci.net/~bronco78/tech.htm Will take you to my tech site where there is a write up on this. Erik Marquez bronco78 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal -----Original Message----- From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens To: 61-79-list Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:23 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back > >All > >A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article >called "whiter whites, brighter brights". I am now going to do that same mod >to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions. I need >the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights" and >putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights >are turned off. This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't >recall >if there was any text about it or not. > >Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would >appreciate it. > >Thanks, Ken > > ------------------------------ From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:56:54 -0900 Yes but the link is currently dead Erik Marquez bronco78 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal -----Original Message----- From: Christopher Worley <cworley76 To: 61-79-list Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 8:40 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Some info from a few years back > >That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section > >Chris Worley > > >>From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens >>Reply-To: 61-79-list >>To: 61-79-list >>Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back >>Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:29:59 +0000 >> >> >>All >> >>A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article >>called "whiter whites, brighter brights". I am now going to do that same >>mod >>to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions. I >>need >>the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights" >>and >>putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights >>are turned off. This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't >>recall >>if there was any text about it or not. >> >>Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would >>appreciate it. >> >>Thanks, Ken >> >> > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 14:03:30 -0600 From: Al Evitts <albert Subject: No Post Ken: on a post I submitted I got amessage that it was forwarded to list moderator for containg spam. this was Monday the 8th. ??????. Al ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: '79 F250 4x4 Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:12:07 -0800 I don't have any titles I can recommend but someone else on the list might. Or check with a company that I think is calle HP Books on the web. Anybody got an address for them? Tom H > > > Tom, > > Could you please list a couple of titles/author of the books you > mention, particularly those covering rust repair? > > Thanks, > Virgil > > There are several good books on body work that will cover > this. I have an > > article from Classic Trucks that gives a good overview on > the subject. It > > is not terribly difficult but does require special tools > and some practice > > in how to use them. > > > ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: Dual diaphram Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:12:01 -0800 > > Tom H. writes: >> The nipple on the front of the unit is > the advance diaphram. > It should be connected to the ported vacuum point on your > carburetor. The > nipple closest to the body of the distributor that points up > is the retard > diaphram. It should be connected to manifold vacuum.<< > > Doesn't the vacuum to the dist come through a "tree" mounted > on the t'stat > housing and the vacuum is switched by the temp change??? One > line in > and two lines out??? > > Azie Magnusson > Ardmore, Al. > > Yes, there are many applications that have that thermostatic switch (tree). That switch however has to sources -- 1 ported (from carb) and 1 manifold, and one output to the advance mechanism. I don't think this would be used in conjunction with a dual diaphram advance unit because then there would be a case (engine hot and decelerating) when manifold vacuum would be applied to the advance diaphram and to the retard diaprham. If it was set up though I would expect the advance diaphram to 'win' because it is larger. Tom H Tom H ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 13:27:08 -0700 From: "Richard Currit" <RCURRI Subject: Re: Aspen front end Sorry about this message being on a dead thread. But a while back somebody was discussing putting an Aspen front end under their Ford truck. If I remember right the reason for using this front end was the transverse mounted torsion bars. Just the other day it dawned on me that I should add a little info. The transverse mounted torsion bar was also used on the MoPar "M" bodies. This includes but isn't limited to the mid-'80s Dodge Diplomats. Just another source for them. Additionally, a lot of these were police fleet vehicles (I know this as I also own a '84 Diplomat CopCar). Watch any mid '80's cop show and you will see hundreds of these. You can identify them in the Junkyard because they will have a "S" in the Vin. These might be better suited for under a truck because they came with oversized torsion and sway bars, as well as 11" disc brakes. They also have a lot of other trick goodies. For instance in mine there are 4 radiators; Normal radiator, transmission radiator, engine oil radiator and a power steering pump radiator (would be great for rock crawling). Sorry for not being too Ford related, but if somebody is still looking to do this swap you might want to check it out. Also, MoPar made far more Diplomats than they did Aspens so they should be more available. FWIW. High Plains Richard '72 F-100, 300 I6 ------------------------------ From: "Phil Clements" <crusader Subject: Steve Delanty's Brighter Brights, Whiter Whites Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:57:47 -0800 Or whatever he called the tech article ;-) Sorry guys, the links (all 3) to his site no longer work, I was just there over the weekend trying to find them myself. I mentioned this upgrade to some folks at The Ford Falcon News (TFFN) and went to verify the bookmarked link. Fortunately, I printed out the entire article. Ken, I'll see if I can provide you what you need. Phil Clements '72 F-250 4X4 429/C6 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 16:08:51 -0800 From: Greg <greg Subject: Re: HP Books http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cyberauto.com/hpbooks.htm http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.books4hotrods.com/ http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.magnumforce.com/store4/books_racing.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 15:33:04 -0600 From: "Jim Pointer" <jfpointer Subject: Re: Whiter whites, brighter brights > From: "Christopher Worley" <cworley76 > Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back > Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 17:40:47 > > > That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section > > Chris Worley > > > >From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens > >Reply-To: 61-79-list > >To: 61-79-list > >Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back > >Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:29:59 +0000 > > > > > >All > > > >A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article > >called "whiter whites, brighter brights". I am now going to do that same > >mod > >to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions. I > >need > >the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights" > >and > >putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights > >are turned off. This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't > >recall > >if there was any text about it or not. > > > >Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would > >appreciate it. > > > >Thanks, Ken Actually, the link from the FTE homepage is broken. It seems that Steve's pages on sonic.net no longer exist. Maybe if someone does have a copy, Ken Payne could stick it out there again. Jim Pointer Kansas City, MO 1966 F100 ______________________________________________________ Get your free web email at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kansascity.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 16:26:02 -0500 From: John Borek <jpb222 Subject: Re: weird cut-out on my 79 I have a 76' f-100 with a 302 and had the same problem over a yead ago, I put a junkyard ignition module in it and it ran fine until this christmas when I blew the engine. Now I have to deal with the problems of making the (new)used 302 work as good as the old one did! ------------------------------ From: "Travis Johnson" <flatheadv8 Subject: rusty '79 F250 Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 15:13:06 -0700 For the bedliner, Herculiner might work, I wish that I would have used it. Iwouldn't suggest using the Duplicolor kit unless you want to redo it after every time you put something in your bed. I sanded my bed with 80grit on the sides and front, and 36grit on the floor before rolling the product in and itstill flakes, peels, scratches, and fades. The only reason I used Duplicolor was for the $50 price tag. >Thanks for the info. I have an idea on how to get rid of the rust. The >rustisn't reallly bad yet. It isn't putting holes on the inside of the >bed yet, but on the outside right above the wheels. I am also >eventually going to put in a paint in bedliner. I am probably going to >go with Herculiner butthere are others that I have seen around, which >is best do you think. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com[1] --- Links --- 1 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ From: "Serian" <serian Subject: Re: weird cut-out on my 79 Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 18:09:20 -0500 Try the suggestions offered by the other list members regarding a fuel system problem; this is the most likely reason for the cut out. Rebuild your carburetor. The kits only cost around $20 or so, and rebuilding a carb is pretty easy. The gaskets harden up after years of sitting, and gasoline evaporates and leaves a varnish in the passages. Another possibility is the ignition module. If you have an extra known to be good duraspark ignition module, swap it in and give it a try. A bad ignition module can cause the symptoms that you describe. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 16:00:25 -0800 From: Marv & Marge <ae722 Subject: Brighter Brights Chris Worley, cworley76 > That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section Yea, but they're dead links. Ken ought to take 'em down, unless SOMEONE recorded them. Anybody? -M- Marv Miller mailto:ae722 "Striving to be the person that my dog thinks I am". ------------------------------ From: Fordman9901 Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:54:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: Wiring Could someone please tell me what color wire go's to the cig lighter someone cut it or done something else with it i would like to get it to work again thanks 77 F250 4x4 highboy ------------------------------ From: "Ken Schneider" <fordemail Subject: Re: DuraSpark Large Cap Conversion (was Plugs and hard st Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:42:12 -0500 I attempted to do this once, and the 302 wires were too short... FWIW Ken Schneider 68 F100 Ranger 360/C6/3.25NL (Storage 'til spring) 88 CV 5.0/AOD > >My next question is DuraSpark related, I've got the stuff to go to it, and will >be making the move sometime soon (only been saying that for a year, but this >has motivated me to get a little more spark in there) ... in the meantime can >I run the larger cap/rotor combo with the 5.0 plug wires ? I hate the fit of >the replacement wires these days and the 90° boots/fittings on the later >model caps is really nice, but I'm afraid the cap may rely on the higher energy >of the ds system to fire it ... anyone know if this is really the case or not >? > >Just my $.02 >wish ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 22:10:27 EST Subject: Re: Wiring ------------------------------ From: "Keith" <a2jkeith Subject: Re: STUMPER Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 18:47:12 -0900 -----Original Message----- From: Harvey, Blaine <HarveyB To: '61-79-list Date: Monday, January 08, 2001 1:53 PM Subject: [61-79-list] weird cut-out on my 79 > >Here is one that has me stumped. > >My 79 302 will periodically (once every two days or so) just cut out while >driving along. I then put it in neutral pump the gas, start it and away it >goes. ><SNIP> Well I am having the same problem of sorts. I have a 71 F250 and if I dont plug that sucker in when I go to fire it up in the morning ( after ritualistic 9 pumps then fire, and then 9 pumps and fire again) the doggone thing cuts out and misfires and everything. I need a web site to get the electronic conversion stuff for the dizzy OR let me know which electronic distributor I can just swap in there as a direct fit and then how to wire it properly. I would rather go with a new distributor and not have to worry about everything else, so if anyone has any ideas maybe you can let me know. I am sick of these points and condenser.. a real pain :o) Also what would be yalls opinion from going from a 750 edelbrock, down to a two barrel carb? I really am spending too much fuel on the 4 barrel, and, I dont really need the extra two I have more then enough torque, I am not running a race car here, I just want a dependable 4wd that if it has to can pull a load and not drop dead doin it. So, if yall got any ideas let me know. Keith 71 F250 Tbird powered 4wd ------------------------------ From: "Michael" <danger Subject: Re: STUMPER Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:56:25 -0800 > Also what would be > yalls opinion from going from a 750 edelbrock, down to a two barrel carb? I > really am spending too much fuel on the 4 barrel, and, I dont really need > the extra two I have more then enough torque, I am not running a race car > here, I just want a dependable 4wd that if it has to can pull a load and not > drop dead doin it. So, if yall got any ideas let me know. > Keith > 71 F250 Tbird powered 4wd ~~~~~~~~~~ You didn't mention what size engine you have or your current MPG readings. If it's a 390 CID then perhaps you might consider a 600 CFM 4V carb (vacuum 2nd) instead of switching to a 2V. You should see better throttle response and fuel mileage. Michael 69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS 69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------ From: SevnD2 Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 01:41:50 EST Subject: Re: Dual diaphram In a message dated 01/09/2001 3:21:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, Tom.Hogan << I don't think this would be used in conjunction with a dual diaphragm advance unit because then there would be a case (engine hot and decelerating) when manifold vacuum would be applied to the advance diaphragm and to the retard diaphragm >> I have a 1972 351Cleveland with this setup. It came from the factory that way. It has become activated on an occasion or two and the engine RPM increases noticeably. The same thing happens from just off idle position of the carburetor. You will have both sides of the dual diaphragm with vacuum. The timing always advances immediately on my engine while doing this. Rollie ------------------------------ From: "gene gardner" <genegow Subject: dual diaphragm Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 01:53:27 -0600 << Doesn't the vacuum to the dist come through a "tree" mounted on the t'stat housing and the vacuum is switched by the temp change??? One line in and two lines out???>> Some 68-72 engines with a dual diaphragm setup (like my 300) also have a "deceleration valve". This is inside an egg-sized plastic housing mounted on a bracket above the coil which "tees" into the vacuum line running from the outer (advance) diaphragm to the carb. It eliminates backfiring during deceleration by closing off the the carb vacuum line running to the advance diaphragm of the dizzy and switching to the intake manifold vacuum ( thus increasing the vacuum and aiding combustion). Of course, one mechanic I used decided to bypass this valve altogether and I can't say it ran any worse. Certainly doesn't backfire. Texican Teacher -- 1970 F100 shorty w 300-six ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 02:34:38 +0000 From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens Subject: Delanty's tech article on lights All, Thanks to everyone for their help locating some old info, especially Phil Clements, who is sending me a copy of what I need. It's good to be back on this list, it's been a couple of years. I'm an old Bronco addict and because of volume I relinquished this list. Without explanation, I'm back and will try to behave myself. I usually just sit back and listen anyhow. Thanks again, Ken ------------------------------ From: "Blake Barr" <humanhunter Subject: 1971 F250 transfer case question Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 06:32:54 -0700 Can anyone tell me which NP transfer case a 1971 F250 4x4 sports custom would have? ------------------------------ From: "Ken Schneider" <fordemail Subject: Re: gas tank options Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:12:04 -0500 for a simple fix for gas fumes, replace the rubber hose that goes from the tank to the filler neck, a $7.00 fix from either denniscarpenter or your local parts store. IF you go to your local parts store (chain stores don't have it) take your existing one with you, and they can cut fuel line to fit. I had the same problem in my 68... Still have the tank in the cab though... Ken Schneider 68 F100 Ranger 360/C6/3.25NL -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce [mailto:61-79-list-bounce Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 9:26 PM To: 61-79-List Subject: [61-79-list] gas tank options I would like to get the fuel tank out of the cab of my 66 F250. I'm getting some fumes in the cab, and it just doesn't seem like a really great spot for gasoline anyway. I would like to swap in a tank that will fit between the frame rails under the bed. Larger capacity would be nice as well. Any suggestions for donor vehicles, or a tank that will fit fairly easily? I think I saw on a web site somewhere that someone had install a 70's era suburban tank in a 60's Ford, and that it was a good fit. Was this someone from the list, or does anybody know where to find this web page again? Thanks for the help Thom Batty 66 F250 Utility ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:20:54 -0500 From: Ken Payne <kpayne Subject: ADMIN: Duplicate postings Are there users still experiencing duplicate postings? Thanks, Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ From: draco Subject: Re: Plugs and hard starts. Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 07:37:11 -0800 (PST) wish wrote: > I finally got the choke leaned out quite a bit and checked all the > timing/points that you would normally check, everything was dead on, > then I realized I hadn't touched the plugs in a while, though its > only got 10K on it since the rebuild. Bill, you are telling the story of my past couple of weeks. I thought I got the choke set right and was running pretty well for a while. It started idling rough again so I got some plugs as I also have 10K on my motor. My result was somewhat different than yours though because one plug came out black and wet. Compression check reveals 145-155 on all but that cylinder which got 75. I am thinking I have a burned valve because before I put Sanderson headers on it I was fighting leaks. Anyway, off comes the head when I get some time. (work is killing me right now) I am also not happy with the Accel silicone plug wires. I can't seem to get them off the plugs without pulling the metal contact out of the wire. I guess is is because the contact is clamped onto the silicone which is pretty soft. Anybody have any suggestions for a good set of wires that might be more durable? Mark in Southwest Washington http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html -- '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4 in digest mode ------------------------------ From: "Ken Schneider" <fordemail Subject: Re: Plugs and hard starts. Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 12:13:11 -0500 I had your exact problem with the Accel Wires, I have since bit the bullet and switched to MSD "blue" wires, which if memory serves me right run around $50-60 a set. Seems like they have a 5yr warranty against pull off. Anyone have experience with DEMON carbs? Ken Schneider 68 F100 Ranger 360/C6/3.25NL 88 CV 5.0/AOD >I am also not happy with the Accel silicone plug wires. I can't seem >to get them off the plugs without pulling the metal contact out of the >wire. I guess is is because the contact is clamped onto the silicone >which is pretty soft. Anybody have any suggestions for a good set of >wires that might be more durable? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:17:28 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW Subject: Re: Excel wires I have had problems with the excel wires not coming off after 10,000 miles because they were damaged by heat of the stock exhaust manifolds. I dont remember having that problem with oem wires just the custom excel wires. I wont be getting them any more. Kenny ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 Subject: dual diaphram vacuum dist Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:17:48 -0600 Rollie writes: >>The PVS switches the ported vacuum to the distributor advance over to manifold vacuum when the engine temperature reaches around 235 degrees. This will advance the timing and speed the engine up in order to help cool it down. The vacuum supplied to the retard side of the dual diaphram is not effected with this particular setup. << OK.. Maybe you're correct in that it is 2 in and 1 out.. In that case where does the line to the retard side of the dist come from?? If it comes from the ported vacuum then wouldn't that negate any vacuum supplied to the adv side when it is coming from ported?? Wouldn't the same be true if it comes from manifold when the pvs directs the adv to be manifold?? Is one of the diaphram sides larger than the other side so it overides the smaller side or something like that?? I'm not being controversal here, just trying to learn and understand. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson Subject: good plug wires Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:28:57 -0600 I have the Accel 300+ race wires on my 390, they are great. They cost a lot ($75 or so) but they have very low resistance and have a lifetime warranty. They are 8.8 mm, I am very happy with mine. I got them from Summit Racing. Garrett www.1966ford.com ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 14:23:59 EST Subject: Re: Plugs and hard starts. I just installed a set of Motor Craft Duraspark 8.5 mm wires on my mustang when I converted it to Duraspark. These wires were at least 15 yrs old, and .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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