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Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 00:06:05 -0500 (EST)
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To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #79
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 11 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 079

In This Issue:
Re: Clicking solenoid
Re: Sparkplugs & Build Sheets
ford plugs
Re: Drum brakes, Forwarded mail....
Re: [perf-list] Re: 460 header questions, with a lil Twee
Re: There's Booze in the Blender
Re: There's Booze in the Blender
heddman headers
Re: heddman headers
Some wiring questions, a lil off topic, but still very mu
Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Duraspark wiring url
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Some wiring questions, a lil off topic, but still ver
Changing bed on '67
Re: Ranger 302
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Cleaning Parts
Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Re: Forwarded mail....
Re: Clicking solenoid
Re: 460 header questions
Re: ford plugs

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Clicking solenoid
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 07:29:38 -0800


I get mine from Quality Fleet Supply, Armstrong I think they are.  They hold
up as well as I expect for the price :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> endorsement of WalMart batteries. They may have lowered their quality
> standards in the interest of price. If another Wal Mart battery in my
> neighborhood fails during the first year, I'm going to switch brands. The
> whole point of buying a new battery is confidence.
>
> --John LaGrone


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Sparkplugs & Build Sheets
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 07:31:37 -0800


I agree :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>  To me Champion spark plugs were almost a joke.  Still, I'll
> never run em.)))


------------------------------

From: "Harvey, Blaine" <HarveyB sgc.gc.ca>
Subject: ford plugs
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:24:53 -0500


I have always run Ford plugs in my crown vics and trucks. Call me
superstituious but never had a problem--as long as you change them before
that ridiculous recommendation in the manual. My mechanic friend always uses
Ford plugs in ford cars and trucks he works on--swears by this policy--even
though otherwise he is a Ch# guy
> ------------------------------
>
> From: SevnD2 aol.com
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 00:04:09 EST
> Subject: Re: Sparkplugs & Build Sheets
>
>
> In a message dated 03/10/2001 9:28:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> richth exis.net writes:
>
> << This is MY OPINION only.  I can honestly say that years ago, as a PAID
> ;)
>  mechanic, I replaced more NEW, defective Champion spark plugs out of
> mine,
>  friends and customers cars and trucks, than any and all other brands
>  combined.
>  To me Champion spark plugs were almost a joke.  Still, I'll never run
> em.)))
>  FTE content, My F250 runs best on Autilite plugs and wires. No kidding.
>  After this story, I hope nobody on the list ruins my day and proves to me
>  that Champion REALLY makes Autolite spark plugs:))
>
>  Rich >>
>
> Everything you said I will agree with. Autolite plugs are all that reside
> under the hoods of my Fords too. I have tried lots of plugs and have had
> problems with most of them. It was always the Champion brand that gave the
>
> most trouble. It didn't matter how hot or cold of Champion plugs used or
> what
> engine they were used in, they just wouldn't hold up in any of my Fords.
>
> Rollie
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 00:14:03 EST
> Subject: Re: Sparkplugs & Build Sheets
>
> I've got 4 Champion plugs that came out of my torino about 30 seconds
> after
> they went in.  Now although 11:1 compression is a lil high, I dont think
> it
> was high enough to cause any normal plug to do what these did.  The
> porcelan
> part of the plug promptly separated from the metal grounding part that
> threads into the heads.  Now 1 plug, I woulda figured it a fluke, but
> 4?????????  Nope I run autolite Resistors in everything.  In fact, the
> folks
> at Jacobs suggest nothing but autolite resistor plugs when using their
> ignition systems, as tests with all other plugs, standard or platinum,
> single
> ground or split ground, couldn't produce the same consistant and higher
> power
> as the Autolites.
>
> Darrell & Tweety
>

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:39:23 EST
Subject: Re: Drum brakes, Forwarded mail....

When I write or send somthing I don't think about putting in all the specific
details.  Got tostop doing that yes I was refering to a dead blow hammer,
metal hammers can cause to maney headaches for you later If you create a burr
it is next to imposssible to get the drum off.


Glenn   NY

78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches)



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 13:40:09 EST
Subject: Re: [perf-list] Re: 460 header questions, with a lil Twee

Thanks Chris.  I assume those would be the block hugger headers, that almost
look the same shape as the manifolds?  Looks like I may end up saving for a
lil while longer.  This project has been taking awhile, so its almost gone
out of spec for some old truck motor.  Still building the standard 460 bottom
end, but its balanced, and has the truck style rods (the same as the 429 CJ
rods) 1968 heads (with the pistons Im runnin, Im lookin at 9.7 or 9.8:1)
Comp 268 cam and comp valve springs.  Offy 360 manifold, and Holley 750
(these two require thanks to some fellow FTE members)  Due to me being unable
to remove my old 460, I've been having to locate all the bolts and tinware
from other motors so my machinst can get it assembled.  Did a quick valve
cover swap yesterday so I could get my aluminum ones polished up and ready, I
ordered an allen head bolt kit from ebay that covers all the exterior bolts,
and also an oil pan.  Total Ebay investment for Tweety?  $50.  Also, since I
had no headblots, and 460 head bolts are dealer only, I went ahead and
ordered a stud kit for the heads.  Cheaper than standard bolts from Ford, and
better too!  Only things left to round up is the timing cover, spacer, and
fuel pump eccentric.  Goin to the wreckin yard tomorrow for that stuff. Got
my K&N cleaned up yesterday, even though they work well when dirty, I decided
that at least the large mud chunks had to go.  Vegas actually has clay here,
and man oh man, is it hard to clean off! Im gettin real close to wrapping
this all up.  Gettin all excited.  Oh and the color I've chosen to paint all
the beautiful hardware?  A nice bright Daytona Yellow.  Sorry but Ford blue
just looks odd in a brown truck.  Coulda gone with old school Ford Gold, but
I just dont like gold on a truck, too much of it here already.  Thanks for
listenin to me ramble.  Im just way excited.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: There's Booze in the Blender
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:24:27 -0800

Are you on crack? Maybe I am missing something?


Garrett Nelson
www.1966ford.com

 ----- Original Message -----
 From: mmiller14
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 11:48 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] There's Booze in the Blender


 ----------------------------------------------------------
 Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
 touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
 http://www.motorhaven.com/
 ----------------------------------------------------------

 The Listfather, kpayne ford-trucks.com wrote, in part:
 > Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce our new online
  > store for 1997 and newer F-150's (and light duty F-250s):
 > www.motorhaven.com
 > We will be adding more products and cover additional trucks
 > in the future.

 Ooooo, Ooooo, Oooooooooooo!  A GAS-POWERED
 MARGARITA MIXER!!!!!  Too bad I can't afford it, but it
 certainly adds significantly to the cylinder count!
 You super-macho guys with V-10's NEED this!

 Marv Miller - mailto:ae722 lafn.org
 or:  mailto:mmiller14 socal.rr.com
 "Striving to be the person
 that my dog thinks I am"



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 12:36:54 -0800
Subject: Re: There's Booze in the Blender
From: Don <duckdon mac.com>


If you add on board air to your rig you can use air tools to run a blender!
Great for that camping spot and neet to whip up those mixed drinks, ect


Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

on 3/11/01 2:24 PM, Garrett Nelson at garrettnelson writeme.com wrote:

> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Are you on crack? Maybe I am missing something?
>
>
> Garrett Nelson
> www.1966ford.com
>
> The Listfather, kpayne ford-trucks.com wrote, in part:
>> Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce our new online
>> store for 1997 and newer F-150's (and light duty F-250s):
>> www.motorhaven.com
>> We will be adding more products and cover additional trucks
>> in the future.
>
> Ooooo, Ooooo, Oooooooooooo!  A GAS-POWERED
> MARGARITA MIXER!!!!!  Too bad I can't afford it, but it
> certainly adds significantly to the cylinder count!
> You super-macho guys with V-10's NEED this!


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:42:21 EST
Subject: Re: There's Booze in the Blender

Maybe Im just not very creative, but whenever we want margarittas on a
camping trip, we just fire up the generator and run the blender.  Mind you
the only thing that gets plugged into the generator is the blender, I mean
after all, if we bbrought a TV we wouldnt be roughing it anymore.  Only
trouble is folks in the other camps tend to not wanna hear a generator at
11pm, so we ether keep it to the early evening, or invite them over to join
us!  FTE content, our last camping trip involved Tweety, dads 88 E-350, Ricks
2000 4x4 f-350, and Joshs lil 95 Ranger.  Tweety holds the record for ease
through the hills loaded, beating out dads FI 460 and Ricks V-10.  I was even
loaded more, as I was towing the camp trailer, AND had a bed stacked full of
pallats for the bonfire.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: "Greg Schnakenberg" <greg mail.dntcj.ro>
Subject: heddman headers
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 23:19:03 +0200


Darrell,

For what its worth, I ran Heddmans on my 429 1967 2wd way back in...1977.  I
ran a 4 speed toploader with bell housing from a CJ torino, and had no
clearance problems.

Greg S.


<<From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 03:53:04 EST
Subject: 460 header questions

Ok, this is for you few folks that have 460 4 speeds in your trucks,
preferably 2wd.  Do you have headers?  I need to find a set that will work
with the 4 speed.  The heddman stuff says it will, but I find it hard to
believe seeing how any of the 460 trucks through 79 came with autos.
Sandersons look like they will fit, but are twice the $$ of hedmans, so if
they will work, you can guarentee I'll be sendin money that way.  As usual,
all info is appreciated!>>

Darrell & Tweety


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 18:10:02 EST
Subject: Re: heddman headers

Thanks, thats news worth hearin!!

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 18:19:22 EST
Subject: Some wiring questions, a lil off topic, but still very mu

Ok folks, The duraspark info was a big help, but we've hit another problem.
This is on a 66 T-bird, but could verywell be a 66 F-100.  The car had a
swapped in (very poorly I might add) 351w.  I dont think they ever got it to
run, but when we did, we discovered a real pretty rod knock.  Fast forward a
few months and my neighbor gets a a 77 Granada for free with a 250 inline 6.
Figures he can get the car rollin with the 6, and have time to round up stuff
for either a modern 5.0 swap, or an original 390.  Why bother with the 6?
Well his wife just blew up the motor in her Chev wagon, and moved on to
roasting the tranny in their 67 Cadi.  Ford to the rescue!!  We droped in the
6 fairly easy, and went to test all of our hookups so far.  Well in the run
position, the car turns over!  Well this is odd, but we decide to work around
it for now, come back to it after hopefully being struck with inspiration.
We continued working, got the duraspark all wired in, using the old power
wire for the coil as the source voltage for everything.  Well guess what, now
the engine doesnt turn over in the run position, in fact, it doesnt even turn
over in the start position!  A quick disconect puts the system back to
turning over in the run position.  I have NO idea whats going on.  A whole
lotta help is now needed, but Im gonna bet someone out there knows exactly
whats up.  Thanks for all your help.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 19:09:45 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick


What is your favorite way of cleaning parts?   I used to by a product
made by GUNK that you mixed with kerosene that you could let
parts soak in.  I cannot find it any more.    I also used to use a product
called HydroSeal that I used for cleaning parts, mainly carburetors< but
I cannot find that either.   I have a parts cleaner (sink on a barrel type)
with
a flow through brush to clean some things.  I really want to soak some of the
really gunked up things though.

I have some major engine work to do this summer, 3 rebuilds(5.0 400M, 428cj)
so I need to clean a lot of things.   Thanks for the help!.

OH by the way,  I posted a "OH NO RUST" regarding a CJ crankshaft
message a while back and a fellow pointed me towards some wonderful stuff.
 I am NO WAY affiliated with this company, I just thought you might like to
know.  it is a product called

"BOESHIELD T-9"   http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.boeshield.com/   enjoy!!!

Thanks,

    Bill


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 16:29:19 -0600
Subject: Duraspark wiring url


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/fzswaps/duraspark.htm




------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 19:40:24 -0800


Have you tried one of those old fashioned rubber flat stoppers that cover
large openings?  Just stop up the basin and let them soak.  What I generally
do while I am working on other parts is put some in the basin and let the
mineral spirits run on them continuously for a while and turn them once in a
while but if you have a bunch I would just stop up the basin and let them
soak.

I have a 30 gal barrel with large 40x30 basin and 280 gal/hr pump and it
works quite well for my purposes but when I need extra cleaning power for
such things as carbs which the mineral spirits won't touch I get spray cans.
When I clean greasy parts I also scrape them thoroughly first to reduce the
work the solvent has to do.  I just rebuilt a transfer case using this
strategy but I will be getting some brushes to help expedite the process on
my next project.  It helps to have different sizes and shapes of brushes to
get into the little crannies and help the solvent out.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> What is your favorite way of cleaning parts?   I used to by a product
> made by GUNK that you mixed with kerosene that you could let
> parts soak in.  I cannot find it any more.    I also used to use a product
> called HydroSeal that I used for cleaning parts, mainly carburetors< but
> I cannot find that either.   I have a parts cleaner (sink on a
> barrel type)
> with
> a flow through brush to clean some things.  I really want to soak
> some of the
> really gunked up things though.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Some wiring questions, a lil off topic, but still ver
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 19:57:35 -0800


If I remember correctly, there are two wires going to the batt side of the
coil on a points ignition.  One comes directly from the start solenoid and
the other comes from the run side of the ignition switch.  I don't know what
colors they are but may be red and white, not sure.  If your start relay
only has on small terminal then the start wire may come directly from the
ignition switch but there should still be two wires I'm pretty sure.

You should have the wire from the start relay going to one connection of the
module and the run wire to the other.  I believe the white wire is the start
and red is run but I always get them mixed up.  You can determine what is
what with a test light or multimeter by turning the key on and off after
making the connections etc....  To fully test them you can remove the
starter wire from the starter side of the start relay so the starter won't
spin when you turn the key to the start position.  It's nice to have a
helper for this kind of thing :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> in the run
> position, the car turns over!  Well this is odd, but we decide to
> work around
> it for now, come back to it after hopefully being struck with
> inspiration.
> We continued working, got the duraspark all wired in, using the old power
> wire for the coil as the source voltage for everything.  Well
> guess what, now
> the engine doesnt turn over in the run position, in fact, it
> doesnt even turn
> over in the start position!


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Changing bed on '67
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 06:37:18 -0800


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------

Hello all,

Putting a new(er) bed on dad's 67 SB.  Need to get the swap done in an
afternoon and figured the old bed bolts would be bad, so wanted to have new
ones on hand.

Does anyone know what size (and how many) we'll need?  I know I've seen them
in catalogs, but we want to try and get it done this weekend so we'll have
to purchase them locally.

Also, is there a plug for the taillight harness somewhere or is it one piece
all the way?

Anyone in the Sacramento area want the old one (needs bed side replaced)?
If we had the time and place to work, we'd make a matching trailer...

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To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Ranger 302
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 06:41:21 -0800


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------

There is tons of swap info out in cyberspace.  A quick search turned up
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://trucks.about.com/autos/trucks/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%
2Fwww.rangerpowersports.com%2Ftech%2Fv8swaps%2F

This would be a good place to start.

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt [mailto:draygo pacifier.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 11:02 PM
To: FTE Offroad-list; FTE 61-79
Subject: [61-79-list] Ranger 302


----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------
Sorry guys, I know this is out of the "61-79" range, but I didn't wanna
subscribe to the "mini's" for one question. A friend was asking me tonight
if a 302 would bolt up to the transmission on his '88 Ranger with the 2.9L
engine. He couldn't tell me what the tranny was. I told him I would ask the
experts, because I have no idea. I personally don't think it would, but
someone told me one time that the 302 would bolt up to the same tranny as
the 300 I6, So who knows what bolts to what? So what do I tell him?

Matt

"Accomplishing the impossible only means the boss will add it to your
regular duties."



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Please remove this footer when replying.
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To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:48:02 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick


At 07:09 PM 3/11/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
>What is your favorite way of cleaning parts?   I used to by a product
>made by GUNK that you mixed with kerosene that you could let
>parts soak in.  I cannot find it any more.


This is right up my alley, been dealing in the lubricants & checmical
business now for 14 years...
The product your looking for is Gunk SC3 Degreaser (SC meaning Super
Concentrated).  Your right, it is made to be mixed with a petroleum product
like Kerosene or Diesel Fuel. This product is still made by Radiator
Specialty Company (Gunk's parent company) in Charlotte, North Carolina. It
can be purchased in quart bottles all the way up to 55 gal Drums. Most of
the National chain Auto Parts stores does not carry it. I recommend looking
in your local Farm & Fleet store and your indepentantly owned NAPA,
CarQuest or Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts stores. Many Hardware stores also
carry the product. Or you might get the company phone number through
Information and call them for a lead.



>I also used to use a product
>called HydroSeal that I used for cleaning parts, mainly carburetors< but
>I cannot find that either.



HydroSeal is also a product of Radiator Specialty and was commonly found in
convenant 5 gallon pails which was perfect for Carbs.  The part numbers is
HS5LB  &  HS5K (w/basket).  A few years ago this was the best product
around. Then the EPA forced changes onto the company and the product lost
some of it's ZAP. You can still get it through most independantly owned
Auto Parts stores. But it is NOT made for your parts Vat!  Another 5 gallon
pail cleaner is Berryman for Carbs and parts. It is also a good product.




> I have a parts cleaner (sink on a barrel type)
>with
>a flow through brush to clean some things.



Radiator Specialy does make Parts Vat cleaner but it is difficult to find.
The best place to get this is through Safety Clean. They are a National
company with offices in almost every major city. They'll deliver out a new
keg (mini drum) of cleaner and haul away your old contaminated cleaner. For
a fee of  coarse! And you can call them on an as needed basis.


Good Luck on your projects this summer!


Dan Herrmann

64 F100 Custom Cab
66 F100 Custom Cab
69 F100 Ranger
75 F150 Explorer
79 F150 Ranger XLT




------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject:  Cleaning Parts
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 22:08:29 -0500


What is your favorite way of cleaning parts
===============================================
go to a home supply store or paint supply store and get a gallon of XYLOL
mixed with diesel fuel or kerosene it will disolve just about any type of
crud almost instantly and its cheap to
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Parts  what's your favorite trick
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 18:53:40 -0800

At least in my neck of the woods Safety Kleen doesn't do it on an "as
needed" basis anymore. They have a minimum cycle time of about 90 days. THe
cheapest way to do it is to buy your apparatus of choice and then have them
service it. They don't just do drums, they will service the one piece tank
types as well. If you rent the whole unit from them it will cost you around
$50 a month. It runs about $25 a month if you have them service your
machine.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Herrmann" <herrmann in-motion.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 6:48 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cleaning Parts what's your favorite trick


> Radiator Specialy does make Parts Vat cleaner but it is difficult to find.
> The best place to get this is through Safety Clean. They are a National
> company with offices in almost every major city. They'll deliver out a new
> keg (mini drum) of cleaner and haul away your old contaminated cleaner.
For
> a fee of  coarse! And you can call them on an as needed basis.




------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Forwarded mail....
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 22:40:52 -0500


use a brake adjuster tool & adjust the  brake shoes away from the
drums.(INWARD) sometimes the drums get worn from the shoes & it leaves a
small lip at the edge of the drum & you can't pull them off.when you insert
the brake adjuster thru the backing plate you will probably have to use a
small screwdriver with it in order to push the adjuster arm away from the
round part with the teeth on it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Harby <harby mim.atc.org>
To: 61-79-list ford-truck.com <61-79-list ford-truck.com>
Date: Friday, March 09, 2001 8:09 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Forwarded mail....


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:48:48 -0600 (CST)
>From: Don Harby <harby mim.atc.org>
>To: 61-79-list ford-truck.com
>
>I have a 1979 f150 4wd and I can't get the rear brake drums off.  It has
>60000 original miles with original brakes.  I took off the little clips on
>the studs but just can't seem to get the drums loose are there any tricks?
>thanks,
>Don
>
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Clicking solenoid
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 22:52:59 -0500


I had a SEARS   "Die Hard "  in my wifes car and it only lasted for 6
months. I took it back with the receipt & they exchanged it with no
questions asked.
-----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, March 10, 2001 10:44 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Clicking solenoid


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>>>When I turn the
>> key, all I get is clicking, no starter engagement. Solenoid, right? The
>> battery is fully charged, about 2 months old, and I just verified that it
>is
>> charged. Interior lights are bright and stay bright during clicking
sound.
><<
>>
>> Could be the starter - could be the solenoid.  Jump across the solenoid -
>> If the starter engages, then it is the solenoid.  If it doesn't, then it
>is
>> most likely the starter.  The lights not dimming during the clicking
kinda
>> eliminates loose/corroded connections and low voltage.
>>
>> Azie Magnusson
>
>That's what I thought. After replacing the solenoid (it needed it, but
>wasn't non-functional) and the starter, I decide to put the battery from my
>truck on. Low and behold, a 7 week old battery was bad. Wal Mart replaced
>it, but they were not very nice about it. I am going to withdraw my
>endorsement of WalMart batteries. They may have lowered their quality
>standards in the interest of price. If another Wal Mart battery in my
>neighborhood fails during the first year, I'm going to switch brands. The
>whole point of buying a new battery is confidence.
>
>--John LaGrone
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 460 header questions
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 22:58:14 -0500


yeah,I know what you mean. I have a 78  2wd  with a 351M in it & I can't
find anyone with a listing for headers for a 2wd.
-----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com <JUMPINFORD aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>;
perf-list ford-trucks.com <perf-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, March 11, 2001 4:06 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] 460 header questions


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Ok, this is for you few folks that have 460 4 speeds in your trucks,
>preferably 2wd.  Do you have headers?  I need to find a set that will work
>with the 4 speed.  The heddman stuff says it will, but I find it hard to
>believe seeing how any of the 460 trucks through 79 came with autos.
>Sandersons look like they will fit, but are twice the $$ of hedmans, so if
>they will work, you can guarentee I'll be sendin money that way.  As usual,
>all info is appreciated!
>
>Darrell & Tweety
>
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: ford plugs
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 23:02:27 -0500


I try to use the ACCEL   U-GROOVE  plugs in my Fords.   Same principal as
the split fire plugs only cheaper price. Not much noticable increase in
performance but the gas mileage is better.
-----Original Message-----
From: Harvey, Blaine <HarveyB sgc.gc.ca>
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com' <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, March 11, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] ford plugs


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
> I have always run Ford plugs in my crown vics and trucks. Call me
>superstituious but never had a problem--as long as you change them before
>that ridiculous recommendation in the manual. My mechanic friend always
uses
>Ford plugs in ford cars and trucks he works on--swears by this policy--even
>though otherwise he is a Ch# guy
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> From: SevnD2 aol.com
>> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 00:04:09 EST
>> Subject: Re: Sparkplugs & Build Sheets
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 03/10/2001 9:28:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>> richth exis.net writes:
>>
>> << This is MY OPINION only.  I can honestly say that years ago, as a PAID
>> ;)
>>  mechanic, I replaced more NEW, defective Champion spark plugs out of
>> mine,
>>  friends and customers cars and trucks, than any and all other brands
>>  combined.
>>  To me Champion spark plugs were almost a joke.  Still, I'll never run
>> em.)))
>>  FTE content, My F250 runs best on Autilite plugs and wires. No kidding.
>>  After this story, I hope nobody on the list ruins my day and proves to
me
>>  that Champion REALLY makes Autolite spark plugs:))
>>
>>  Rich >>
>>
>> Everything you said I will agree with. Autolite plugs are all that reside
>> under the hoods of my Fords too. I have tried lots of plugs and have had
>> problems with most of them. It was always the Champion brand that gave
the
>>
>> most trouble. It didn't matter how hot or cold of Champion plugs used or
>> what
>> engine they were used in, they just wouldn't hold up in any of my Fords.
>>
>> Rollie
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
>> Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 00:14:03 EST
>> Subject: Re: Sparkplugs & Build Sheets
>>
>> I've got 4 Champion plugs that came out of my torino about 30 seconds
>> after
>> they went in.  Now although 11:1 compression is a lil high, I dont think
>> it
>> was high enough to cause any normal plug to do what these did.  The
>> porcelan
>> part of the plug promptly separated from the metal grounding part that
>> threads into the heads.  Now 1 plug, I woulda figured it a fluke, but
>> 4?????????  Nope I run autolite Resistors in everything.  In fact, the
>> folks
>> at Jacobs suggest nothing but autolite resistor plugs when using their ....


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