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Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 07:37:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #77
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Serious help restoring and maintaining your Ford truck!
----------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Fri, 09 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 077

In This Issue:
Re: [61-79-list]clicking starter
Re: Value
Re: House pets
Re: FTE PayPal
Re: Preload
Re: D60 (Torque)
D60 Torque
D60 Torque
Clicking solenoid
68 Mercury Crewcab
Re: D60(torque)
property values, fan clutch
Forwarded mail....
ADMIN: FTE's new 1997 and newer F-150 store
Re: Forwarded mail....
Re: radiator
Re: Brake drum sticking,  Forwarded mail....
Re: 1979 F-150 Questions
Re: Cyl #ing
Re: Drum brakes, Forwarded mail....
Re: Cyl #ing
Sparkplugs & Build Sheets

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]clicking starter
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 04:25:53 -0800


>
> Quick question. The answer doesn't have to be as quick. :-)
> When I turn the
> key, all I get is clicking, no starter engagement. Solenoid,
> right? The
> battery is fully charged, about 2 months old, and I just
> verified that it is
> charged. Interior lights are bright and stay bright during
> clicking sound. I
> guess at 130000 miles, the starter should be replaced, too,
> huh? I guess you
> figured out it isn't Henry, it's a neighbor's 79 Ford F100
> very similar to
> Henry. I could swap parts, but I figure a quick question is
> easier since
> it's raining cats and dogs (don't start again..puleese) outside at the
> moment. TIA.
>
> -- John

John, Yes the clicking noise you hear is the solenoid.  The problem could be
the solenoid or the starter.  I would replace the solenoid first since it is
cheapest and easiest to get to.  If that fixed it no sweat.  If it doesn't I
would have replaced it anyway at that age when I put in a new starter so no
loss.

The other thing it could be is the starter is stuck with the bendix
extended.  You might be able to remove the starter and force the bendix back
and have it work.  But at that age if I was pulling off the old starter I
would just replace it.

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 08:15:02 -0500
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: Value



Well, I'd take the house and then immediately sell it and buy a
place on a small acreage for garden & shop (and no stupid zoning).

Virgil

> Ox writes:  >>You couldn't give me a house in a yupp
> neighborhood where I can't change my own oil in the driveway. <<
>
> I knew we had something more than old Fords in common.  My kind
> of guy.
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: House pets
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:31:42 -0800


I personally wouldn't have any pets except for my wife's need for some kind
of distraction.  I don't believe in tieing a dog or leaving it in a pen out
by the barn so "If" I have one it is a house dog but not because I love dog
hair in my chili or all over my couch or in the carpet, trust me, only
because I believe in taking proper care of them if I take on that
responsibility.  Now, if I lived in a farm area where neighbors were a long
ways off I would be free to let the dog run loose most of the time so we
could both be happy but unfortunately I live in "Rogers Village" now (used
to be farm country) :-(

As Azie says......to each his own :-)  Back in the old days all the farmers
had dogs and they ran loose and stayed outside without causing any trouble
and we all knew each other's dogs and were used to having them around but
now there is no room for that around here so the rules have changed.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> >>- John
> (1 cat, 6 dogs--all in the house. My pets don't annoy my neighbors; only I
> am allowed that pleasure.)<<
>
> To each his own.
>
>
> Azie Magnusson


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 00:08:01 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: FTE PayPal



----------------------------------------------------------
Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
http://www.motorhaven.com/
----------------------------------------------------------

At 09:24 PM 3/5/01 -0500, you wrote:
------------------------------------------------------
>

>Well, you guys are my friends and I'm humbled.  As suggested,
>I've set up a PayPal.com account (that service is really
>COOL!) and I've got a page for it:
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/Web_store/donate.html
>
>
>If there is anything I can do to express my thanks to
>the list, let me know.
>
>Ken Payne
>Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>



Ken,

Glad your going through with it.  In fact, I just opened my Paypal account
last week and received my first auction payment into it yesterday. I'm
thrilled to donate the full amount of my first Paypal payment ($26.50) to
the FTE.  It's not much, but I challenge everyone to do their part now.
The Club & the Store will be my next move.

As for something YOU can do.... Just keep up the great job of "admining"
the Nets #1 site....... FTE!!!!!!!

Take care ol'freind.

Dan Herrmann




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To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Preload
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:44:08 -0800


Before disk brakes I would agree with you and so did I but with disk brakes
I get them a little tighter than I used to, as I said, I just take more time
and try to get them at a perfect zero :-)  The problem with disk brakes is
that the wheel will wobble with loose bearings (the term here is used
loosely:-)) and push the pads out a tad so when you try to apply the brakes
you have less pedal or they feel a little more mushy.  This is the only
reason for keeping them so tight and I'm still not sure that it doesn't
cause them to wear a little faster but I would rather have better brakes and
take the chance :-)

I rememeber when they first came out on cars GM had a torque spec that I
still believe to this day that mechanics misunderstood but they called for a
preload of some torque on the front wheels.  Seems like they were using a
different kind of bearing though too but can't remember the details.

Front wheel drive units make it easy, you just throw all the parts together
and put your 3/4" drive impact on the axle nut and let 'er fly :-)  The
bearings in these are ball bearings and have a spacer built in to give them
the proper preload when fully tight, about 275# of torque.  BTW, if you take
one apart and the bearing seems to be loose, don't throw it away til you
retighten it fully.  I made this mistake because I didn't understand the
construction.  Even though the parts are pressed together they will loosen
up quite a bit when you release the axle nut or if the last person didn't
get it tight enough so check the nut first before assuming the bearing is
bad:-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Gary writes:  >>....  This last is in response to the idea
> that you torque the bearings to 50# and leave them there as some believe
> (which is totally wrong of course).<<
>
> Oh I agree totally...  Too much preload on a tapered roller is absolutely
> an unwanted situation, as is too much clearance(or too loose).  The
> thing I always try for is to be able to "feel" slight movement up/down
> after everything is buttoned up.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: D60 (Torque)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 09:10:01 -0800


Something I've noticed since I started using the tire for leverage is that I
have to actually use a pair of pliers on the nut on a 2wd front axle to get
all the play out.  I used to just use the drum or hub to "Feel" the play and
could actually tighten the nut on most of them with my fingers but
discovered on my bronco that that was "Way" not good enough.  I then began
to experiment with other vehicles as they came in and found that I am
getting them much tighter now than I used to and feel that this is the
correct way to do it.  With the tire installed you can get a good feel even
when it's cold outside (or inside the barn :-))

It's very fortunate for us old timers that timkin tapered bearings are very
forgiving:-)  Most of us learned from some old farmer who learned from the
local blacksmith who learned from.......Moses........  Needless to say, you
don't keep up with technology that way or learn scientific principles that
way either.  Nice thing about schools is you can, if you pay attention,
learn some nice facts that help you "Figure" stuff out later :-)  I remember
my grand dad used to lap his valves on his old IH-H every spring before
going out into the fields because they were always leaking.  When I took a
class on the subject I discovered that that was incorrect.  He could have
had the valves refaced and seats recut to the proper angles, lapped only a
very narrow ring around them and they would have lasted several seasons,
perhaps many seasons with no trouble but that's what some other farmer told
him to do so that's what he did.

Here we have a nice mix of old farmers, grand dads and college boys along
with some real, school trained mechanics so eventually the truth will come
out.  Now........the truth is behind what curtain????

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>  Getting the freeplay right on a greased bearing just "by feel"
>  isn't always an easy task. (At least not for me)
>
>    Jim Imboden


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: D60 Torque
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 07:39:20 -0600

Rich writes:  >>Thanks guy's!<<

You're quite welcome, sir!!  Can't help  you with your math
assignment though.  I do believe that I remember somewhere back
in my studies(differential equations maybe) that zero was not
necessarily zero, but I'm not even sure I remember that correctly.
I do good to remember to take my medecine, much less what I
wrote to this list yesterday or what I ate or what I wore.  Trivial
matters to say the least.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: D60 Torque
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 07:56:17 -0600

Doss H. writes:  >>Got a recommendation for the full floater? Can I
feel 0.010" axial freeplay? Tell me how it feels. I expect to just be able
to feel a slight, almost imperceptable clunk at about 0.004" or
thereabouts. At 0.010" I think I should definitely feel a clunk<<

I'd say more of a click than a clunk.  Got grease in there remember.
Here is my procedure::  Tighten down to torque in order to seat bearings
fully in races and maybe even sometimes to make sure the race is fully
against the stop.  Loosen 1/8 turn time until I can feel vertical
movement of the hub assy when applying pressure up/down with hands.
Once I can feel movement(however slight), I insert the tabbed washer and
torque the outer nut and then recheck for movement, bend the tabs
on the locking washer alternating one inward - one outward. Job complete.
Don't need to use them all..  Just a couple each direction.
I might add that when checking for the vertical movement, I rotate the
assy so that I check it in least 4 spots about 90 degrees apart.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Clicking solenoid
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:02:18 -0600

John LaG. writes:  >>When I turn the
key, all I get is clicking, no starter engagement. Solenoid, right? The
battery is fully charged, about 2 months old, and I just verified that it is
charged. Interior lights are bright and stay bright during clicking sound. <<

Could be the starter - could be the solenoid.  Jump across the solenoid -
If the starter engages, then it is the solenoid.  If it doesn't, then it is
most likely the starter.  The lights not dimming during the clicking kinda
eliminates loose/corroded connections and low voltage.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 68 Mercury Crewcab
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 11:02:41 -0600

Anyone in the Buffalo NY area that might be interested take a look on
www.Ebay.com.  Item # 567697956.  Looks like a retty big PROJECT,
but someones junk is sometimes anothers treasure...

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
Subject: Re: D60(torque)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 11:40:37 -0700


-----Original Message-----
From: rich
I just learned from my Math Instructor that 1+1
does not = 2, thats one of my homework assignments tonight. Any help with
this before 6pm tommorrow??  :;)

While driving home from work in my Ford truck (FTE content?), I remembered
seeing this in one of my math classes:
(Could this explain why no matter how often I fill up, my gas gauge always
seems to be on 'E'?)

"Proof" that 1 + 1 = 0
x = 1
y = 1

x = y
x^2 = y^2
x^2 - y^2 = 0
(x-y)*(x+y) = 0
(x-y)*(x+y)/(x-y) = 0/(x-y)
1*(x+y) = 0
(x+y) = 0
1 + 1 = 0

-Randy
'79 F250 Supercab, 460


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 13:46:45 -0800 (PST)
From: kerry corey <fansong9 yahoo.com>
Subject: property values, fan clutch


Hi:
  Thanks for the input about fan clutch vs electric
fan. The fan companies say don't use electric fans if
you ever tow. I haven't so far but want that
capability. Most auto part stores DON'T know bolt
sizes, etc. in my area. I'm still deciding. As to
property values..been there, done that on yuppy
neighbors. Part of problem is that city officials
convince them that YOUR pick up is the big factor in
property value (which is only important when you sell
the property!). The truly important factors are
location, school performance, economic trends,
availability of competitive property due to
restrictive or easy rezoning, police performance, etc.
Most of these are influenced by gov. officials, who do
NOT want to be blamed for low value due to poor use of
school dollars, inefficient police dept., etc. Much
nicer to blame that hillbilly w/the old F-100, or
whatever.Avoid at all costs questions about why they
rezoned the adjacent 500 acre farm, which means 800
new houses will be built to compete with yours when
you sell. hope this has enough FTE content!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:53:15 -0600 (CST)
From: Don Harby <harby mim.atc.org>
Subject: Forwarded mail....




---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:48:48 -0600 (CST)
From: Don Harby <harby mim.atc.org>
To: 61-79-list ford-truck.com

I have a 1979 f150 4wd and I can't get the rear brake drums off.  It has
60000 original miles with original brakes.  I took off the little clips on
the studs but just can't seem to get the drums loose are there any tricks?
thanks,
Don



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 14:59:51 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: FTE's new 1997 and newer F-150 store


Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce our new online
store for 1997 and newer F-150's (and light duty F-250s):

www.motorhaven.com

We will be adding more products and cover additional trucks
in the future.

Of course we still have our existing store for literature
(all years) and apparel:
www.motorhaven.com

Our 1997 and newer F-150 store is the result of an online
collaboration with friends of ours who operate Geno's Garage
here in Georgia.  Geno's Garage has traditionally supplied
parts and accessories for diesel trucks and has been looking
an opportunity to break into the gas engine market.  FTE has
been in need of order fulfillment services for higher end
items. Though we have thousands of books, CD-ROMs, t-shirts
and decals in our inventory, its hard to stock larger products
given the space we have available.

Our collaboration with Geno's Garage gives us the opportunity
to service newer truck owners.  We appreciate your support
and if there's something you're looking for that we don't
carry, let us know.

Regards,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 22:57:22 EST
Subject: Re: Forwarded mail....

In a message dated 3/9/01 6:57:16 PM Central Standard Time, harby mim.atc.org
writes:


> I took off the little clips on
> the studs but just can't seem to get the drums loose are there any tricks?
> thanks,
> Have you tried using a hammer in the center of the hub tap around the
center of the hub thats usely where they rust up and get stuck.  A little
presure between the backing plate and the drum also helps,


Glenn   NY

78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches)



------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 23:00:17 EST
Subject: Re: radiator

Darrell

Sounds like a Turkey hunting trip I went on in Tx. Turned out to be on the
coldest day of the year and was 14 below w/o wind chill. Frooze the heater
lines up solid and almost got the radiater in my '73 F100.  Needless to say
the only turleys out there that day was the ones carrying the shotguns!

That was a good ol truck, that '73. She never learned to fly or float, but
I/we still had lots of good times in it, She taught me all about the fine art
of working on Fords! Ran real good too, Nebraska Highway Patrol clocked me
once (once was enough) at 108 with the stock 302 in my youthfull and far more
stupid days.

George M in Fl.

In a message dated 03/09/01 5:17:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
JUMPINFORD aol.com writes:


> > Your price will be the same and it helps support this site.
> > They sell heater cores too, I bought one from them a long
> > time ago for my 67.
> >
> >
>
> Hey cool, Tweety needs one of those.  I never really cared till I drove the
> truck to northern nevada on a hunting trip.  I was in almost every clothing
> article possible, and still freezin my but, my buddy had crawled into his
> bag
> and gone to sleep.  Never in my life has a road trip been so miserable!!!
>
> Darrell & Tweety
>
>





------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Brake drum sticking,  Forwarded mail....
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 23:52:57 -0800


Why, yes there are :-)  The center hub on this and many other drum brake
setups is very tight in the hole in the drum and the drum is thin in that
area and.....the edge of the hole has a shoulder on it that is tapered which
make the edge thicker than the rest of the drum face.  What happens it that
the face flexes and causes the edge of the hole to bind on the center hub
and the harder you try to pull on it the harder it bites.  The trick is to
use a dead blow hammer or just a rubber hammer to pound the snot out of it
on the outer diameter but on the face edge and working your way around it so
that it vibrates the thin face and causes it to walk off the hub.

Do not use a metal hammer for this as the outer portion of the drum is cast
iron and will break.  Get a good 2-3# dead blow hammer and learn how to use
it to good advantage on all your projects.  I always anti-seize the hub when
I reinstall them but it really doesn't help that much.  By the time you have
hammered on the drum a little any rust that might be in the way is
pulverized and not an issue.  This interface is only about 1/8" thick so you
only have to get it 1/8" off the hub and you are free except for the
posiblity of the shoes binding on the drum which you solve by loosening the
adjusters.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I have a 1979 f150 4wd and I can't get the rear brake drums off.  It has
> 60000 original miles with original brakes.  I took off the little clips on
> the studs but just can't seem to get the drums loose are there any tricks?
> thanks,
> Don


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 1979 F-150 Questions
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 00:01:02 -0500


oops !!  I didn't get it all  on & got disconnected. check the vacuum
advance to see if the arm inside the dist. is still hooked up. also if the
timing has jumped it will make  it run hot--sometimes to the point that the
exhaust manifolds will turn cherry red (really).as for the electrical
problem with the lights blinking,check the dimmer switch on the
floor-sometimes they get wet & the wiring corrodes & shorts out. I would try
spraying WD-40 on the  plunger  buttons for the door contacts to see if  you
could get them to free up before replacing them. I have these same problems
on different occasions with two different trucks that I've owned.I hope this
helps-just some suggestions.
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Hartwell <hartwell vt.edu>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 3:46 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 1979 F-150 Questions


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hey guys and gals,
>
>As I solve more problems on my Dad's 1979 Ford F-150, I find more things to
be fixed.  Fortunately, these problems have gone from necessities to
niceties.
>
>The truck occasionally runs a little on the hot side.  On the original
gauge that reads "C  Normal  H", it's often on the "a" or "l".  We flushed
the radiator and cooling system with Prestone Flush, and refilled with new
stuff.  No luck.  I put in a new NAPA 180 degree thermostat, no significant
improvement.  I put in a temp gauge from a 76 Ford, and aside from being one
digit off in the part number (D3TF instead of D8TF) and reading "temp"
instead of "normal" it seemed an exact replacement.  That didn't help much
either.  A lab instructor at Va Tech told me the radiator shroud didn't come
close enough to the fan blade, and there wasn't enough vacuum.  Could I take
the radiator bolts out, get longer ones, and put spacers between the front
of the truck and the radiator to push it back closer to the motor, thus
putting the fan in the hole?  Would that be a good fix, or are spacers a bad
idea?  Another consideration is the shroud doesn't cover all the radiator
(the top 6 inches o!
>f the radiator aren't covered by the shroud), so should I get another one
instead?  Where?  How much?  I've seen some stuff in Jegs called "40 Below"
which is an additive to help lower engine temps, is this a good idea to try?
Dad wants me to order and install a 160 degree thermostat, is that a good
idea?  The aforementioned lab instructor also suggested electric fans, but
since the truck didn't come with them, Dad is against it (wants to stay
original), though I may go with an auxiliary fan on front of the radiator
anyway if nothing else works.
>
>Next question:  Sometimes, the electric system seems to blink out.  For
example, if I hit a really bad bump in the road (and not all bumps, maybe
happens once or twice a month) the headlights, radio, any thing else
electric blinks out for a moment, then back on.  I assume there is a bad
ground connection somewhere, breaking the circuit.  The truck does have a 3
inch body lift.  Where would I look for grounding connections on the cab,
front end, to the frame?  Where are the major ground connections (I do know
about the one from the battery to the block, but are there any other major
ones?)?
>
>Next question:  I fixed the interior light by replacing it, and now it
turns on by turning the light switch.  But, the inside light should come on
when I open the door.  The button switches in the door frame seem stiff and
I suspect they are bad, how big a job is it to replace them?  I would guess
it's two connections, but is there typically much slack in the wire?  Is the
wire badly recessed to make it hard to get to?  Where should I get these
button door switches?
>
>Next question:  I ran into a guy at NAPA who had just bought a 1979 that
was hit in the front corner, bent frame and totaled.  He bought it for the
bed for himself, the motor for his father in law.  He said it had a great
factory air conditioner in it, and I could come see it myself if I'd like
(he'd start the truck and let me test it out).  He priced this for $200, and
said he'd throw in the brackets for a 400 for my Dad's truck because he's
upgrading from a 400 to a 460 in his truck.  Do I have anything to fear with
a system this old?  Is there any maintenance I need to do (replace this or
that) if I do buy it and put it in Dad's truck (aside from charging the
system with new R-134a)?  How big a job is this?  He said I could pull the
whole metal dash assembly out of the wrecked truck (that goes from door to
door), have it painted to match Dad's, and install it rather than cutting
vent holes in Dad's dash.  What is the better choice for installation?  Any
insight on this proj!
>ect?
>
>Sorry for such a long message, but I had several questions, and I know you
guys are a great resource of information and experience.  I hope to get some
pics up on the website if the weather ever clears up so y'all can see what
I've been working on!  Thanks in advance for your help!
>
>Joe Hartwell
>1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L
>1968 Ford F100 360
>1997 Harley Sportster 883
>
>
>
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------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Cyl #ing
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 00:04:07 -0500


I looked at a Tempest last summer for sale  & it had the slant four in it.
Never knew they put such a small motor in such a big car. doesn't seem like
it would have enough guts to pull it down the road.
-----Original Message-----
From: daves8 juno.com <daves8 juno.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 3:58 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cyl #ing


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hundreds of Ford licensed decals to put the finishing
>touch on your truck! Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>The Tempest from '61 to '63 had the Slant four.  It was half of a 389.
>The V8 was an aluminum block 215.  The rights to this engine were sold to
>Roveer (British Leyland?) later and the V8s in the Triumph Stag and
>Rovers were all derived from it.
>
>Dave Schoenberg
>Denver, Colorado
>
>On Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:17:08 -0600 "Azie L. Magnusson"
><maggie11 HiWAAY.net> writes:
>> The one I do remember being "Half" of a V8 was the '61 Pontiac
>> Lemans with choice of 4 cyl(half of a 389 I'm told) or the aluminum
>> V8 (326 I believe)........
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------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Drum brakes, Forwarded mail....
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 00:21:37 -0800


I'm pretty sure you don't mean on the axle itself but will caution anyone
reading this that hitting the axle with a metal hammer may make it difficult
to remove the drum due to putting a burr on the edge of the hub or upsetting
the metal and expanding it to make it tighter yet.  A metal hammer can also
damage the axle bearings.  In my many attempts to remove these at some point
in my experience I also made this mistake but on reflection later realized
it was not a good idea :-)  Sometimes hitting the hub with a dead blow
hammer will facilitate walking the drum off though with no damage to the hub
and little or no damage to the bearings but I always try to get it off
hitting the outer diameter of the drum first :-)  This has the effect of
"Ringing" the drum face so it vibrates around the hub.

The neat thing about a dead blow hammer is that you get the effect of a
metal hammer of transfering most of the weight and energy of the hammer to
the object but without marring it and without shocking it as much.  Most of
the time the dead blow will out perform a metal hammer for this type of
task.  The axle itself has what is called in science "Mass" which also has
"Inertia" so resists movement when struck which protects the bearings to
some degree.  The slight padding of the blow using a dead blow hammer will
further protect them.  This same inertia applies to the drum too which is
why hitting the center of the axle will walk the drum off.  The drum stays
put while you move the axle within it but.......there are bearings back
there too so keep that in mind :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> > I took off the little clips on
> > the studs but just can't seem to get the drums loose are there
> any tricks?
> > thanks,
> >
> Have you tried using a hammer in the center of the hub tap around the
> center of the hub thats usely where they rust up and get stuck.  A little
> presure between the backing plate and the drum also helps,
>
>
> Glenn   NY


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Cyl #ing
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 00:23:33 -0800


How about a 2300 in a Cougar?  Course it had a turbo on it......:-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Never knew they put such a small motor in such a big car. doesn't
> seem like
> it would have enough guts to pull it down the road.


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Sparkplugs & Build Sheets
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 06:38:38 -0500

A thread on sparkplugs ran recently and it took till now to find what I wanted. Champion sparkplugs has an 800 number (1-800-323-1977) and will take your motor info and recommend the best plug for the application. Of course if you don't like Champion you could always cross reference to your preferred brand. ....


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