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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Tue, 09 Jan 2001 15:03:32 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 15:03:32 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #7 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 08 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 007 In This Issue: Re: Truck Won't Start, Resolved! Re: '79 F250 4x4 Re: 63 truck for sale Plugs and hard starts. Re: Plugs and hard starts. Gas for Older Engines Re: Gas for Older Engines Re: Homemade flatbed Re: Plugs and hard starts. weird cut-out on my 79 Re: weird cut-out on my 79 Re: weird cut-out on my 79 rusty '79 F250 Re: Supernationals Entry Fee Flat Bed Re: Plugs and brakes Dual diaphram Re: Dual diaphram Some info from a few years back Re: Some info from a few years back Re: Dual diaphram Re: Plugs and brakes ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 10:29:07 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: Truck Won't Start, Resolved! The purpose as it was explained to me was to simply help the engine warm up faster. The retard vacuum line can be removed and plugged with no harmful side effects other than more polution as the engine warms up. But if it was not working to begin with it should help. Kenny >>> "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com> 01/08/01 10:24AM >>>
Kourtney, The dual vacuum diaphram is an advance/retard mechanism. I'm not sure of the advantage of this. Tom H. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 13:35:52 -0500 From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: '79 F250 4x4 Tom, Could you please list a couple of titles/author of the books you mention, particularly those covering rust repair? Thanks, Virgil > There are several good books on body work that will cover this. I have an > article from Classic Trucks that gives a good overview on the subject. It > is not terribly difficult but does require special tools and some practice > in how to use them. > ------------------------------ From: "Ann Wasserman" <meshugga prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 63 truck for sale Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 14:00:31 -0800 Do you happen to know what kind and lenght bed it has? Thanks Annie ----- Original Message ----- From: negativeimage earthlink.net
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 5:29 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 63 truck for sale depending on where in alabama it is, if anyone is interested, i'd be more than happy to take a look at it and snap some digital pictures for you. G & J Boling wrote: > i found a 63 f 100 for sale in alabama that supposedly has a rebuilt engine > and drivetrain for 800.00 and they say it has no rust either on it > it is a 6 cylinder with a 3 spd tranny > if anyone is interested i,ll be glad to forward a picture of it with their e > mail address as well just to help them out > gordon -- --------------------------- Andrew and Meredith Rolfsen --------------------------- 1962 Ford F100 Flare Side Resto-mod 351c 1967 Mercury Cougar Stnd Resto-mod 289 1968 Mercury Cougar hers 302 1978 Ford econoline 150 mine 351w ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 21:22:28 GMT Subject: Plugs and hard starts. Well with this cold snap came some rough starts for the truck. It would fire initially, but if I didn't keep it running it was all over, would flood itself out and be impossible to start without a jump, a combo of too rich on the choke and a 5 year old battery that's seen better days. I finally got the choke leaned out quite a bit and checked all the timing/points that you would normally check, everything was dead on, then I realized I hadn't touched the plugs in a while, though its only got 10K on it since the rebuild. What I found amazed me ... the plugs were nearly perfect, a little dark in color (probably from the really rich cold starts) but were nearly perfect, there was no pitting, no rounding, nothing, but the gap was too narrow! They were all (except for one) at .030" but I know I set everything at .035" before I put it in. What would cause these to get narrower ? Would 2 gauges vary that much ? Also had 2 plug wires that were messed up, one just wasn't plugged on all the way (#2), and another fell apart when I touched it (#1). I had a spare wire laying around from the old motor that I replaced the bad one with, and now it runs like a dream, unbelieveable how great it ran after that (perfectly smooth, sounded like an old musclecar again :) My next question is DuraSpark related, I've got the stuff to go to it, and will be making the move sometime soon (only been saying that for a year, but this has motivated me to get a little more spark in there) ... in the meantime can I run the larger cap/rotor combo with the 5.0 plug wires ? I hate the fit of the replacement wires these days and the 90° boots/fittings on the later model caps is really nice, but I'm afraid the cap may rely on the higher energy of the ds system to fire it ... anyone know if this is really the case or not ? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 12:24:12 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: Plugs and hard starts. You can go to the larger cap at any time. It should be an improvement on its own. You will find there is less cross fire since the contacts are spaced farther apart. Kenny >>> "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net> 01/08/01 01:22PM >>>
My next question is DuraSpark related, I've got the stuff to go to it, and will be making the move sometime soon (only been saying that for a year, but this has motivated me to get a little more spark in there) ... in the meantime can I run the larger cap/rotor combo with the 5.0 plug wires ? I hate the fit of the replacement wires these days and the 90° boots/fittings on the later model caps is really nice, but I'm afraid the cap may rely on the higher energy of the ds system to fire it ... anyone know if this is really the case or not ? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 15:50:16 -0500 From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Gas for Older Engines Are there any hard and fast rules for using unleaded gas in older engines? Some people I have talked to recommend using premium. Others say to harden the valves (I am not sure what this means exactly). What is the wisdom on this? Thanks, Virgil ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 13:46:25 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: Gas for Older Engines Having hardened valve seats (area of cylinder head the valves set into when closed) installed requires removing your heads and bringing them to a good machine shop. Leaded gasoline prevented the valve seats from eroding on older engines but the switch to Unleaded gasoline required the use of hardened valve seats that "unleaded only" vehicles came from the factory with. There are also some lead substitute additives available but I do not know how well they work. Higher octane gas is only necessary if you have problems with your engine detonating or "knocking". Typically when accelerating or the truck is under load. One reason your engine may knock would be if it is an older high performance engine that came with a high compression ratio. The lead in gasoline also was an octane booster and allowed higher compression and more advanced timing. If your truck doesnt knock then higher grade gas can be a waste of money. Kenny >>> "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com> 01/08/01 12:50PM >>>
Are there any hard and fast rules for using unleaded gas in older engines? Some people I have talked to recommend using premium. Others say to harden the valves (I am not sure what this means exactly). What is the wisdom on this? Thanks, Virgil ------------------------------ From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Homemade flatbed Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 22:31:57 >I've been looking for a pre-made flatbed that I could retrofit, but without much luck. A popular brand of premade steel beds is Hilsboro. They manufacture stock trailers. They are kinda pricey (around $1000, I believe). Sure look good though. Might check with local places that sell trailers, especially stock trailers. Also check with a local welding/fabrication shop. A friend had a custom flatbed made by a local welder, very nice. Had hidden 5th wheel ball, integrated rear bumper, lights, headache rack and tool boxes mounted under bed between cab and rear wheels. I believe it ran him about $900 when it was all done. Just a thought. -I don't know anything about the local laws, never heard of anything like that in South Dakota or Nebraska, seems like every third pickup has a flatbed here... Marty _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Plugs and hard starts. Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 16:41:35 -0600 Wish, I ran the large cap conversion long before I installed my Duraspark with no problems at all. Even had a stock coil on it. When I buy plug wires for my 390, I get a set for a mid 80's 460. They have a little extra length, but it hasn't hurt anything yet. Jason Kendrick ------------------------------ From: "Harvey, Blaine" <HarveyB sgc.gc.ca>
Subject: weird cut-out on my 79 Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:21:34 -0500 Here is one that has me stumped. My 79 302 will periodically (once every two days or so) just cut out while driving along. I then put it in neutral pump the gas, start it and away it goes. The other day, it did so, and wouldn't run until I had made several start ups. There is a new gas tank and fuel pump, cap and rotor. Today, it did it again but started right up and no problem. The truck had been runfor an hour today with no problem. It feels like water in the gas but unlike that problem, it starts up again right away and runs fine until the next time. I put a bottle of gas line anti freeze just to be sure. I have had this happen with wet ignition but when that happens the truck won't run again or at least pull itself without drying the ignition out. Not the case here. The truck sat for 7 years until this spring when I bought it and restored it. Does this sound like a carb problem to anyone? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:48:39 -0500 From: Bill Logan <f10067 naxs.net>
Subject: Re: weird cut-out on my 79 Greetings. This is my first post though I've been subscribed to the list for over a month. I had a similar problem with my 67 F100 (300 6cyl, 3 speed), so I thought I'd speak up. My problem occured after I installed a new fuel pump. A neighbor speculated that the new fuel pump was creating too much pressure for the carb (single bbl stock) and suggested that I install a relief fuel line (with an adjustable valve) from between the fuel pump and carb back to between the fuel tank and fuel pump. That's been about four or five years ago and it solved the problem for me. (The fix required two "tees", one of those inexpensive little valves, about three feet of fuel line, and about 15 minutes of time.) HTH, Bill http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.naxs.com/wblogan/f100.html On Mon, Jan 08, 2001 at 06:21:34PM -0500, Harvey, Blaine wrote: > > Here is one that has me stumped. > > My 79 302 will periodically (once every two days or so) just cut out while > driving along. I then put it in neutral pump the gas, start it and away it > goes. > > The other day, it did so, and wouldn't run until I had made several start > ups. There is a new gas tank and fuel pump, cap and rotor. > Today, it did it again but started right up and no problem. The > truck had been runfor an hour today with no problem. It feels like water in > the gas but unlike that problem, it starts up again right away and runs fine > until the next time. I put a bottle of gas line anti freeze just to be sure. > I have had this happen with wet ignition but when that happens the truck > won't run again or at least pull itself without drying the ignition out. Not > the case here. > > The truck sat for 7 years until this spring when I bought it and > restored it. Does this sound like a carb problem to anyone? > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 18:00:23 -0600 From: Ron Martens <martens flash.net>
Subject: Re: weird cut-out on my 79 I had a similiar problem with my '76 with a 302, after a lot of messing around like changing all the hoses from the gas tank, changing the fuel pump, the ign module, adding all kinds of additives, I finally took the top off of the card and lo and behould the gasket had dropped down and was holding the float up and in this condition the truck ran fine until the gas in the fuel bowl ran out it would quit. I performed a radical cutting (trimed) the gasket so the float would be able allow the gas to flow. Good luck. Harvey, Blaine wrote: > Here is one that has me stumped. > > My 79 302 will periodically (once every two days or so) just cut out while > driving along. I then put it in neutral pump the gas, start it and away it > goes. > > The other day, it did so, and wouldn't run until I had made several start > ups. There is a new gas tank and fuel pump, cap and rotor. > Today, it did it again but started right up and no problem. The > truck had been runfor an hour today with no problem. It feels like water in > the gas but unlike that problem, it starts up again right away and runs fine > until the next time. I put a bottle of gas line anti freeze just to be sure. > I have had this happen with wet ignition but when that happens the truck > won't run again or at least pull itself without drying the ignition out. Not > the case here. > > The truck sat for 7 years until this spring when I bought it and > restored it. Does this sound like a carb problem to anyone? > > > > ------------------------------ From: MattandNati webtv.net (Matthew Summerfield)
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 19:55:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: rusty '79 F250 Thanks for the info. I have an idea on how to get rid of the rust. The rust isn't reallly bad yet. It isn't putting holes on the inside of the bed yet, but on the outside right above the wheels. I am also eventually going to put in a paint in bedliner. I am probably going to go with Herculiner but there are others that I have seen around, which is best do you think. Thanks Matt Summerfield '79 F250 4x4 ------------------------------ From: Fifty7F100 cs.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 20:50:03 EST Subject: Re: Supernationals Entry Fee In a message dated 1/8/01 10:26:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, listar ford-trucks.com writes:
<< > Stupid question of the day: Is the registration fee only for people >who want to show their truck? What if you just want to show up? My truck is >in no shape to be in a show at present. > > Virgil The registration fee is for your truck. If you don't pay the fee then you have to pay to get in the gate and won't be eligible for the door prizes, which can be substantial (such as the $8,000 frame they gave away last year). -Ken Payne >> Guys, Seems I remember paying $5 per day for regular entry. Don't let this stop you from coming. It is very much worth while! Glenn in TN 57 F100 -- in process 93 Mercury Capri (you think parts are hard to find for the 57-60 F100's!) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 18:59:19 -0800 From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Flat Bed >I'm wondering if anyone >knows of some plans to do a project like this or if anyone has done this >themselves can you give me any hints or guidelines before I start. I ran a flat bed for a few years on my 76 F-250 4x4.I live in Nevada and traveled to Oregon,California and Utah with it and never had any problem with scales,etc.. First thing is to measure from the top of the FRONT wheel to the top of the fender.This is the distance you want the bed above the REAR wheels for a clean,well proportioned flat bed.Another appearance issue is width. I measured my cab at it's widest point and added 2 inches.1" on each side. And a third apperance issue is rear over hang.I cut my frame off behind the lasdst shackle to shorten the over hang,making my long bed about 7'6". After determining the necessary measurement get a 4 by timber(My 4x needed a 4 x 14).Cut the bottom to follow the contour of the frame. I had some 3/16 flat stock bent as follows. 1 1/2"x 1 1/2 lip for the floor to set in. 3" top.(the piece the stakes would drop into) 5-6" side 2" lip on the bottom. __________ l l_____ l l Looks like this from the end l_____ For the rear I measured from the top of the bed to the bottom of the frame.I then replaced the 5-6" measurement above with this dimension.Then I went outside to outside of the frame rails,deducted it from the width of the bed and and had the slope of the rear of the bed. Sort of like this with the "0s" being tail lights. __________________________ l o o l ` 0 0 ` ` ` 0 0 ` ` _____________` This is a brief over view of building a bed. By the time I got done with mine I could have bought a nice bed with what I spent on metal,lights, wood ,nuts, bolts etc.Not to mention who knows how many hours. I WANTED a flat bed.I removed a perfectly good bed(which I now have back on) to install a flat bed.To build a NICE bed is not a simple or cheap project, but when done right they do look very nice.Now that my 76 is not a daily driver I may just put my flat bed back on.I'm pumping the 428 up and with the lighter weight of a flat bed the bow tie whippings could be even more severe..... Any more questions on bed buildin' let me know. ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 15:49:57 GMT Subject: Re: Plugs and brakes > I ran the large cap conversion long before I installed my Duraspark >with no problems at all. Even had a stock coil on it. When I buy plug wires >for my 390, I get a set for a mid 80's 460. They have a little extra length, >but it hasn't hurt anything yet. Great! I'll probably pick that stuff up tonight then, waited til I heard from you guys 'cause with my luck there would've been something else a little different and I'd have been without a running truck. As it turns out I'm with a truck that won't stop, when I did the disc brake conversion apparently I didn't get the left caliper seated correctly, it popped out a little ways and wedged itself ... burned off the entire pad and some of the plate that holds the pad ... not to mention doing a bang up job of turning the rotor down to well below spec ... so I've got a new rotor getting pressed today and I'll get it all back together tonight I hope. Any tips for being sure the calipers are seated correctly and don't pop out ? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Dual diaphram Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:56:33 -0600 Tom H. writes: >> The nipple on the front of the unit is the advance diaphram. It should be connected to the ported vacuum point on your carburetor. The nipple closest to the body of the distributor that points up is the retard diaphram. It should be connected to manifold vacuum.<< Doesn't the vacuum to the dist come through a "tree" mounted on the t'stat housing and the vacuum is switched by the temp change??? One line in and two lines out??? Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 07:01:51 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: Dual diaphram I believe there are more than one version now that you describe that. My '71 F-100 w/ 300 inline 6 was run like Tom described but I believe I have seen later models with something like you describe. Kenny >>> "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net> 01/09/01 06:56AM >>>
Tom H. writes: >> The nipple on the front of the unit is the advance diaphram. It should be connected to the ported vacuum point on your carburetor. The nipple closest to the body of the distributor that points up is the retard diaphram. It should be connected to manifold vacuum.<< Doesn't the vacuum to the dist come through a "tree" mounted on the t'stat housing and the vacuum is switched by the temp change??? One line in and two lines out??? Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:22:47 -0600 Subject: Re: weird cut-out on my 79 From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> The truck sat for 7 years until this spring when I bought it and > restored it. Does this sound like a carb problem to anyone? Sounds like a rusty gas tank. There is a sock on the end of the pick up tube in the tank. Next time it cuts out, get out and shake the devil out of your truck to slosh the gas and see if that helps. Or try sloshing it and see id=f it goes longer before it cuts out again. Another possibility is a split rubber fuel line that is sucking air or losing pressure. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:24:32 -0600 Subject: Re: Dual diaphram From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Doesn't the vacuum to the dist come through a "tree" mounted on the t'stat > housing and the vacuum is switched by the temp change??? One line in > and two lines out??? Mine doesn't (huge grin). -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:26:48 -0600 Subject: Re: Plugs and brakes From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> I didn't get the left caliper seated correctly, it popped > out a little ways and wedged itself ... burned off the entire pad and some of > the plate that holds the pad ... not to mention doing a bang up job of turning > the rotor down to well below spec I swear, I didn't help wish. Dog gone it, Bill, that sounds exactly like something I would do. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:29:59 +0000 From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens cswnet.com>
Subject: Some info from a few years back All A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article called "whiter whites, brighter brights". I am now going to do that same mod to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions. I need the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights" and putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights are turned off. This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't recall if there was any text about it or not. Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would appreciate it. Thanks, Ken ------------------------------ From: "Christopher Worley" <cworley76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Some info from a few years back Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 17:40:47 That Article is still on the FTE homepage in the Tech Section Chris Worley >From: Ken Ahrens <kahrens cswnet.com>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Some info from a few years back >Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:29:59 +0000 > > >All > >A few years ago Steve Delanty authored (among others) a how-to tech article >called "whiter whites, brighter brights". I am now going to do that same >mod >to a ''77 Bronco but the dog must have eaten part of the instructions. I >need >the last part that covers keeping the "dim" elements on with the 'brights" >and >putting in a momentary high beam flash switch for use when the headlights >are turned off. This part included a couple of JPG schematics but I don't >recall >if there was any text about it or not. > >Surely someone has a copy of this squirreled away and I sure would >appreciate it. > >Thanks, Ken > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:55:20 EST Subject: Re: Dual diaphram In a message dated 01/09/2001 10:01:03 AM Eastern Standard Time, maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:
<< Doesn't the vacuum to the dist come through a "tree" mounted on the t'stat housing and the vacuum is switched by the temp change??? One line in and two lines out??? >> The setup I have seen and read about in books is a two vacuum lines in (one ported and one from manifold) and one vacuum line out to the distributor vacuum advance. This type of coolant temperature operated PVS (ported vacuum switch) is switched into operation when the coolant temperature reaches around 235 degrees. It is mounted into the thermostat housing on most engines, but found mounted to the water pump of others like the 351 Clevelands including the 351M and 400. The PVS switches the ported vacuum to the distributor advance over to manifold vacuum when the engine temperature reaches around 235 degrees. This will advance the timing and speed the engine up in order to help cool it down. The vacuum supplied to the retard side of the dual diaphram is not effected with this particular setup. There are more details and other setups with a cold start spark advance included with this. The cold start spark advance wasn't used until the late seventies. Hope this helps. Rollie ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:03:26 GMT Subject: Re: Plugs and brakes > >> I didn't get the left caliper seated correctly, it popped >> out a little ways and wedged itself ... burned off the entire pad and some of >> the plate that holds the pad ... not to mention doing a bang up job of turning >> the rotor down to well below spec > >I swear, I didn't help wish. Dog gone it, Bill, that sounds exactly like >something I would do. > Thanks for the support John :) That was literally my first time putting that system together, so it probably wasn't seated quite right, I was going to go back and check it since the pass. side went together like butter, but I figured it was my first time before so it just seemed harder ... guess I should've checked it... oh well, they have all the parts in stock so it should be running by this evening, and stopping too of course :) Guess that explains the low fluid in the reservoir too (since the piston was .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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