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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 07 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 006

In This Issue:
Re: Good wrenches near Portland, Or
gas tank options
Truck Won't Start, Resolved!
Re: Pressure Regulator
Re: worn T-18 shifter pin
63 truck for sale
'79 F250 4x4
Re: '79 F250 4x4
Re: 63 truck for sale
Re: 63 truck for sale
Re: Truck Won't Start, Resolved!
Re: Np208 Transfer case?
Re: ADMIN: 2001 Supernationals Info
Re: Homemade flatbed
Re: Homemade flatbed
Running on
Re: ADMIN: 2001 Supernationals Info
Re: Homemade flatbed
fix for the leaky radiator
'69 F250 on ebay
Re: '79 F250 4x4
Re: Truck Won't Start, Resolved!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 10:32:04 -0800
From: "Kenneth Whitman" <kennyw brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: Good wrenches near Portland, Or


I found it... if you do a search simply enter "OBH" and you will find it.

Kenny

>>> "Kenneth Whitman" <kennyw brightwood.com> 01/07/01 10:16 AM >>>

"Oregon Bushhackers" is this correct?  I cant find the group searching egroups.  I am located in Central Oregon and interested in the group.

Kenny




------------------------------

From: A61fordtruck aol.com
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 13:55:42 EST
Subject: gas tank options


I would like to get the fuel tank out of the cab of my 66 F250.
> I'm getting
> some fumes in the cab, and it just doesn't seem like a really
> great spot for
> gasoline anyway.

The Izuzu trooper from a 84 on up till?  worked great in my 61.  Also a 65-66
stang tank will fit between your framrails too.  There is a tech article on
the site that details the stang tank swap, and there have been articles
written about the Izuzu swap as well in various truck mags.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 13:00:02 -0600 (CST)
From: Kourtney Ray de Haas <kourt uts.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Truck Won't Start, Resolved!


Gary was right!  I brought out the multitester, checked the duraspark
module, and sure enough, it was the source of the problem.  Now the
problem is I believe the vacuum advance on the distributor isn't being
activated.  I have a dual vacuum advance distributor, but don't exactly
know where the vacuum lines connect.  Timing at idle is great, but once I
get moving, there's no power, and people driving behind me start honking
because I'm going too slow.  Any advice or descriptions regarding the
vacuum advance hose routing would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not happy with all the wires and such used in the duraspark
conversion.  I'm thinking about getting a Pertronix conversion kit
instead.  I've seen lots of good reviews on the FTE message boards.  If
anyone would like to recommend a supplier, I'd love to hear from you.

Kourtney de Haas
Austin, Texas
1970 F100 360 C6 LWB Chrome Yellow



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 15:25:13 EST
Subject: Re: Pressure Regulator

In a message dated 1/6/01 4:26:01 PM Central Standard Time,
jbryson intrex.net writes:


> What would make it start leaking after so many years?
> Why is this pressure regulator necessary?
>

It probably started leaking becouse the diaphragm dried out and cracked that
is useally what happens to them.  The only reason I can think of for a
regulator is if you have a electric fuel pump installed on your truck.



------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: worn T-18 shifter pin
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 21:07:28


Thanks, I'll try the bolt idea.  That was all I could come up with too.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: 63 truck for sale
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 18:15:53 -0500


i found a 63 f 100 for sale in alabama that supposedly has a rebuilt engine
and drivetrain for 800.00 and they say it has no rust either on it
it is a 6 cylinder with a 3 spd tranny
if anyone is interested i,ll be glad to forward a picture of it with their e
mail address as well just to help them out
gordon



------------------------------

From: MattandNati webtv.net (Matthew Summerfield)
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 19:43:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: '79 F250 4x4


New to the group.  I have a '79 F250 4x4 with a 460 and 4 speed tranny.
I want to get rid of the rust on it and repaint it eventually.  Rust is
just eating holes in my bed and on the cab.  What is the best and
easiest way to remove rust?

Matt Summerfield, NC
'79 F250 4x4


------------------------------

From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Re: '79 F250 4x4
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:11:08 -0500


To stop rust in progress, check www.por15.com  -pretty pricey, but all agree
it's the best.  Consider the "combo".

For the cab parts, you are probably looking at extensive body work.  You can
buy repair patch panels at several places- check www.jcwhitney.com -they
have the best price around, I think.  Such panels can be attached by pop
rivet, but surface welding is best.  Afterwards, grinding/prepping, and
Bondo.  If you are new at this, it's hard to get it looking right- get a few
prices from body shops for consideration.

On beds, it's usually not worth trying to repair a rusted-through bed.  You
can shop around for a replacement to swap in.  Or, you could try to stop the
rust as above, and then cover with one of those rigid plastic bed liners if
still structurally OK.




----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Summerfield <MattandNati webtv.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 7:43 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] '79 F250 4x4


>
> New to the group.  I have a '79 F250 4x4 with a 460 and 4 speed tranny.
> I want to get rid of the rust on it and repaint it eventually.  Rust is
> just eating holes in my bed and on the cab.  What is the best and
> easiest way to remove rust?
>
> Matt Summerfield, NC
> '79 F250 4x4
>
>
>


------------------------------

From: negativeimage earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 19:29:53 -0600
Subject: Re: 63 truck for sale


depending on where in alabama it is, if anyone is interested, i'd be more than
happy to take a look at it and snap some digital pictures for you.

G & J Boling wrote:

> i found a 63 f 100 for sale in alabama that supposedly has a rebuilt engine
> and drivetrain for 800.00 and they say it has no rust either on it
> it is a 6 cylinder with a 3 spd tranny
> if anyone is interested i,ll be glad to forward a picture of it with their e
> mail address as well just to help them out
> gordon

--
---------------------------
Andrew and Meredith Rolfsen
---------------------------
1962 Ford F100 Flare Side  Resto-mod 351c
1967 Mercury Cougar Stnd Resto-mod 289
1968 Mercury Cougar   hers   302
1978 Ford econoline 150  mine   351w



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 63 truck for sale
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 21:04:10 -0500






its near DECATUR AL. from what i was told
gordon

> ======================================================
> depending on where in alabama it is, if anyone is interested, i'd be more
than
> happy to take a look at it and snap some digital pictures for you.
>
> G & J Boling wrote:
>
> > i found a 63 f 100 for sale



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Truck Won't Start, Resolved!
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 06:53:52 -0800


Duraspark is about as simple as it gets.  The biggest problem with is is the
large black plugs that can get old and corroded and not make good contact.
You should only have two wires to the coil and the harness between the dizzy
and module and two wires to feed the module.  The points system has a few
less wires but at quite a cost in performance.  I'd just take a look at all
those wires first and make sure they are needed or see if they can be
neatened up a bit.  A few wire ties does wonders for the engine bay :-)

Old dizzys are notorious for sticking vac linkage or hung mechanical parts
so take the top out and free everything up but be carefull not to bend the
spring tabs or lose the spings and if you take the springs out, get them
back on the same posts.  The springs are the heart of the mechanical advance
and extremely sensitive to any changes in length etc. (stretching etc.).

Once you have everyting moving freely in the dizzy, pull the vac line and
reset the timing to about 10 degrees and give it a try.  If you get spark
knock back it off 2 degrees at a time till it is tollerable.  My bronco
likes 8 degrees right now but it has a funky Holley on it so.....:-)

You can test the vac with a timing light too by pulling the hose with light
on and watch for a change in the timing.  Not sure what to expect from the
dual setup but you should see some change when you pull the lines off.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> activated.  I have a dual vacuum advance distributor, but don't exactly
> know where the vacuum lines connect.  Timing at idle is great, but once I
> get moving, there's no power, and people driving behind me start honking
> because I'm going too slow.  Any advice or descriptions regarding the
> vacuum advance hose routing would be greatly appreciated.
>
> I'm not happy with all the wires and such used in the duraspark
> conversion.  I'm thinking about getting a Pertronix conversion kit
> instead.  I've seen lots of good reviews on the FTE message boards.  If
> anyone would like to recommend a supplier, I'd love to hear from you.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Np208 Transfer case?
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 07:18:36 -0800


Ok, it's on the bench and not very complicated at all.  The problem was the
Hi/Lo shift fork (totally trashed) and a bad thrust bearing (needle bearing
cage) on the front output shaft.  It had been taken apart before and the
#$%^&%#$# didn't get the thrust bearing in the right place :-(  He had both
heavy, hardened washers on the shaft side of the bearing and it was running
against the aluminum face on the housing :-(  I'm going to buy some extra
washers and hope I can built it backup enough and that it will be straight
enough to keep the bearing and seals properly positioned.  This area was
leaking like and open faucet due to this.

This is the first transfer case I've taken apart so it was enlightening.
Always wondered how they separtated the Hi/Lo thing :-)  Pretty cool
actually.  I'm pretty impressed by the stoutness of this case.  Very large
shafts but the 4x4 connection to the front drive shaft is very narrow, about
1/4" of engagement which is a little scary but apparently works well enough
:-)  The chain is a little loose but no more than I would expect.  It's made
like a silent timing chain and probably suffers with the same
malady.....initial wear but then stable for many miles after break in.
There's plenty of engagememt and it's a long way from hitting anything so I
think I will re-use it.  All the bearing seem to be in good shape too so
will be re-used.  This is a budget fix so will replace a few seals, thrust
bearings and the trashed fork and throw it back together.

I'll be running to the dealer in a few minutes to see what, if any, parts he
can get for me.

Now I'm pumped about opening up the 205 I have lying around :-)

BTW, that steel bench top I made in my back "White Room" is really great for
this.  Just a few paper towels to wipe up the oil and I have a squeaky clean
surface to assemble the tranny's and xfer cases etc..  My parts washer is
right behind me as I work and blast cabinet to the right and behind me as
well.  It really is great fun to have a nice work space.  I waited way too
long to do this.  My bench is 15' long and 24" deep with a 6" splash wall
bent into the steel work top.  The whole steel thing only cost me $90, bent
to perfection in a "Z" shape by a local steel works for me and worth ever
dang penny :-) (3/4" front lip to cover the OSB and 6" back splash) I over
laid some 3/4 osb and put a couple of shelves under to store stuff
(completely filled it up too) and a few shelves above too.  One 8'
commercial, instant on, cold weather flourescent unit is all it takes to
light that little area very nicely (15' x 8').  BTW, it was 35 degrees today
and it was very comfortable out there with no heat working with a thin pair
of cotton work gloves.  I learned a long time ago that if I keep my feet
warm the rest of me hangs in there pretty well :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)+
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Sounds like something with the forks have worn out or broken.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 06:42:47 -0600
Subject: Homemade flatbed
From: Rusty Nail <rnail mmgworldwide.com>


Since rust is a hot topic this time of year, I thought someone could help me
with this question. I'm thinking of scrapping the  rusty bed off my '77 f150
and building a flatbed that would use wood planks for the floor and side
rails. I would like to use a custom bumper also. I'm wondering if anyone
knows of some plans to do a project like this or if anyone has done this
themselves can you give me any hints or guidelines before I start. I've been
looking for a pre-made flatbed that I could retrofit, but without much luck.
Any helpful comments are appreciated.

Scott Nail
'77 f150
2wd, 400


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 08:52:30 -0500
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: 2001 Supernationals Info



Stupid question of the day: Is the registration fee only for people
who want to show their truck? What if you just want to show up? My truck is
in no shape to be in a show at present.

Virgil

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Homemade flatbed
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 09:23:06 -0800


Gentlemen, and ladies, I have been talking to our local Michigan Motor
Carrier Officer about this very subject and I hightly recommend you do the
same in your area if you are contemplating such a move.  Our officer is very
helpful and friendly and obviously very knowledgeable which is to say I
learned a lot talking to him.

One thing I learned is that I DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS!  It turns out that if
it does not have a stock looking bed on it that it is not a Pickup any more.
You can put a different pickup bed on it but it must be a pickup bed from a
stock truck of some kind.  If you do flat bed thing it must be re-titled as
a stake bed and then different rules apply to it's use.  Another side issue
that came up in the discussion was trailers.....did you know that if you
pull a utility trailer with a rating higher than 10k than you must have a
CDL to cross state lines with it?  In Michigan you also have to have a
different plate to pull a 10k trailer to the tune of $435.  They don't care
what you haul on it but if it is rated at more than 10k you must comply with
all these rules.

Pickups under 5k are all the same rating, plate wise and can be transfered
between them as well here in Michigan.

I point all these things out because I know this is a very popular
modification with old trucks and perhaps in some states it's not a problem
but check with your motor carrier officer to be sure.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> with this question. I'm thinking of scrapping the  rusty bed off
> my '77 f150
> and building a flatbed that would use wood planks for the floor and side
> rails.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 06:34:20 -0800
From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: Homemade flatbed


That is a terrible law.  I cant believe it is enforced when private owners are obviously not using there trucks for commercial purposes.  I have lived in Illinois, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Washington, and now Oregon.  Every state I have lived in with rust problems the flat bed is a very popular thing to do when rust has gotten the best of the old bed and replacements available are no better than what you started with.  If any such law existed in any of those states it was never enforced.

My father is a commercial truck driver that once used his personal one ton dually flatbed truck to hual a crane hook from Illinois to New York for repair.  He was able to drive past every weight station on the way and never stopped even though the load on his truck was obviously not something a private person would carry around.  not to mention he was at least 5,000# over weight.

Kenny

>>> "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net> 01/08/01 09:23AM >>>

--snip--
If you do flat bed thing it must be re-titled as a stake bed and then different rules apply to it's use.



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Running on
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:46:07 -0600

Kourtney deH. writes:  >>Truck is running, but when I turn the key to the off position, and even
> pull it out, the truck keeps running.  The only way I can kill the engine
> is to disconnect the battery.  Are there some obvious/normal fixes to this
> issue?  Starter relay?<<

Have you reversed the two wires going to the starter relay(the one on the
passengers side fender well)??  Seems like I remember reversing these wires
once long ago and got the same results you are getting..Just a guess and I
have no idea if you've changed anything at all since it did not do this, but it
might be worth a try if you have been playing around inder the hood with
the wiring and all.


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 09:59:17 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: 2001 Supernationals Info


At 08:52 AM 1/8/01, you wrote:


>        Stupid question of the day: Is the registration fee only for people
>who want to show their truck? What if you just want to show up? My truck is
>in no shape to be in a show at present.
>
>        Virgil

The registration fee is for your truck.  If you don't pay the
fee then you have to pay to get in the gate and won't be eligible
for the door prizes, which can be substantial (such as the $8,000
frame they gave away last year).

-Ken Payne


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Homemade flatbed
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:04:57 -0800


This is precisely why they have such laws.  This kind of abuse is what
damages the roads and causes accidents.  Over loaded trucks break and when
they do they cause accidents.  There are many converted pickups in Michigan
running illegal plates but until they get involved in a mishap they are
overlooked too for the most part.  What Barry told me was that when you do
get into a scrape and someone gets hurt the scalping lawyers will play on
every point of illegality about your situation and take your insurance
company for all it's worth.  In my personal opinion it isn't worth that kind
of risk.  He told me about a case he was involved in where a dump truck
driver was hit by a woman who ran a stop sign.  He was perfectly in the
right, had no chance to avoid the accident but his medical certs were out of
date by 3 months.  His truck was mechanically perfect as was his driving
etc. but his insurance paid $10 million for this mishap due to it coming
before a jury of his "Peers" who were misled by the scalping lawyer.

Another thing people do is insure a vehicle for a child but the vehicle is
not in the child's name.  Insurance companies won't say a word to you but if
you get in a wreck the company is not lable because the insured vehicle is
insured under the wrong name.  I paid for two years like this and
fortunately no accidents happened before I learned about this but I had to
ask, they didn't come forward with the info on their own.

You can go ahead and do this if you like but be warned that in some States
you could pay dearly for the convenience if you don't follow all the rules.
All I'm suggesting to you is that you should check with your Motor Carrier
Officer first.  He is the one who will be called in on the case if you are
found out of compliance.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> My father is a commercial truck driver that once used his
> personal one ton dually flatbed truck to hual a crane hook from
> Illinois to New York for repair.  He was able to drive past every
> weight station on the way and never stopped even though the load
> on his truck was obviously not something a private person would
> carry around.  not to mention he was at least 5,000# over weight.


------------------------------

From: "Scott Grossen" <grossens ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: fix for the leaky radiator
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 07:34:59 -0800


as far as the leaky radiator i have 2 spare radiators im looking to get rid
of
one is from a 302 and the other is the heavier 351m radiator the m radiator
has been checked and repainted recently and i had no trouble with it till i
put in a 429 and air conditioning im from the woodburn area and if you email
me off the list i can give you a number to call


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: '69 F250 on ebay
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 07:38:26 -0800


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=538409716

Seems awful rusty, but supposedly low mileage...




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 11:46:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Homemade flatbed
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Another thing people do is insure a vehicle for a child but the vehicle is
> not in the child's name.  Insurance companies won't say a word to you but if
> you get in a wreck the company is not lable because the insured vehicle is
> insured under the wrong name.  I paid for two years like this and
> fortunately no accidents happened before I learned about this but I had to
> ask, they didn't come forward with the info on their own.

Insurance laws vary from state to state. My son's car is in my name, but he
buys the insurance in his name. He is covered under Texas law, but I am also
liable as owner of the vehicle. That's why when you lease a new car you have
to put very high limits on your liability coverage. I am under the
impression that Michigan is a no fault state. Texas is not. It is worth
repeating: Insurance laws vary from state to state. Be sure your company has
an agreement that will make sure you meet the requirements of all 50 states
(or at least the lower 48). Mine does.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: '79 F250 4x4
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:24:09 -0800


>
> New to the group.  I have a '79 F250 4x4 with a 460 and 4
> speed tranny.
> I want to get rid of the rust on it and repaint it
> eventually.  Rust is
> just eating holes in my bed and on the cab.  What is the best and
> easiest way to remove rust?
>
> Matt Summerfield, NC
> '79 F250 4x4
>
>

Matt,
A hearty welcome to you!! 8-).

Depending on where you live rust is a constant problem.  Unfortunately there
is no magic solution.  Rust is iron oxide, Fe02 I think.  The problem is
that once it starts to form the rust doesn't seal the survace.  It allows
more oxygen in to the iron to form more Fe02.  This means that if you just
cover it up with paint the oxygen can still get in there to form more rust.
Hence the bubbling paint you might have seen with rust underneath it. The
only way to stop rust is to uncover all of it (remove all paint, bondo etc)
and cut out the offending rust and replace the area with fresh metal.  This
is an opportunity to purchase and learn to use a good mig welder. ;-)

If it is surface rust you might have some success using petroleum jelly.  It
will chemically neutralize the rust and you can then paint over it.  Several
people here have used a product called POR-15.  It is similar to super glue
will adhere to rust and seal it so no more oxygen can get in.  I don't know
if it will actually stop its spread underneath.

There are several good books on body work that will cover this.  I have an
article from Classic Trucks that gives a good overview on the subject.  It
is not terribly difficult but does require special tools and some practice
in how to use them.

Good luck
Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Truck Won't Start, Resolved!
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 10:24:09 -0800



>
> Gary was right!  I brought out the multitester, checked the duraspark
> module, and sure enough, it was the source of the problem.  Now the
> problem is I believe the vacuum advance on the distributor isn't being
> activated.  I have a dual vacuum advance distributor, but
> don't exactly
> know where the vacuum lines connect.  Timing at idle is
> great, but once I
> get moving, there's no power, and people driving behind me
> start honking
> because I'm going too slow.  Any advice or descriptions regarding the
> vacuum advance hose routing would be greatly appreciated.
>
> I'm not happy with all the wires and such used in the duraspark
> conversion.  I'm thinking about getting a Pertronix conversion kit
> instead.  I've seen lots of good reviews on the FTE message
> boards.  If
> anyone would like to recommend a supplier, I'd love to hear from you.
>
> Kourtney de Haas
> Austin, Texas
> 1970 F100 360 C6 LWB Chrome Yellow
>

Kourtney,
The dual vacuum diaphram is an advance/retard mechanism.  I believe an
emissions fix.  The nipple on the front of the unit is the advance diaphram.
It should be connected to the ported vacuum point on your carburetor.  The
nipple closest to the body of the distributor that points up is the retard
diaphram.  It should be connected to manifold vacuum.

The advance diaphram is larger than the retard diaphram.  Under normal
operation the ported vacuum comes on in off idle conditions.   The advance
mechanism will therefore provide an advance during off idle operation.  The
larger advance diaphram overcomes the smaller retard diaphram.  When the
throttle is released for decelleration the ported vacuum at the carb is shut ....


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