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Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 02:34:53 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #51
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Fri, 16 Feb 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 051

In This Issue:
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: Cold timing, was: Re: 390 intake
Re: Cold timing, was: Re: 390 intake
Funny noises??
240/300 engine removal & work stand questions
Ford 9"
Re: 240/300 engine removal & work stand questions
Re: 240/300 engine removal & work stand questions
Re: 70 Parking light
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: TDC was :Re: Timing my motor
Re: TDC was :Re: Timing my motor
Fwd: Funny noises??
Re: possible parting of a 63
Re: possible parting of a 63
Re: Cold timing, was: Re: 390 intake
390 distributor
setting valves on 460
Wrong Offy & 351W
Re: TDC was :Re: Timing my motor
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: setting valves on 460
Re: 390 distributor
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: Timing my motor - need advice

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:17:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice


>Can you clarify this? I'm not disagreeing in the least. The crank makes two

>revs for the cam's one. How do the dots on the gears line up? Doesn't the
>dot on the crank go up and the cam down?

Yup, this is how it goes on any stock motor this list would deal with (OHC is
a whole nuther ball of wax) ... And since this chain is what sets the 2:1 ratio
of crank to cam, then its hard to get wrong as long as you put them as close
together as possible ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:34:54 EST
Subject: Re: Cold timing, was: Re: 390 intake


In a message dated 2/16/2001 10:12:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bronco78 alaska.com writes:

<< darn
oil pump shaft is not lined up correctly and will not allow the dist to
completely drop down, use an extension and 5/16 socket (or correct size for
your shaft) to turn the shaft a little, install dist.. >>

Instead of doin this, just bump the starter while having someone safely push
down on the dizzy.  It'll seat up just fine, and you dont have to worry about
loosing a socket in your engine.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Cold timing, was: Re: 390 intake
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 10:51:52 -0900


true, but then the crank and timing marks are no longer in the correct
position, and ya have to do that all over again. 20 sec and a piece of tape
and you will not loose the socket, or do it the correct way and use your oil
pump priming adapter,,, every body has one of those in the roll-away
right??? either a purchased one, or one created from an old dist??

Erik Marquez
Never a bad time for a new tool
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
-----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com <JUMPINFORD aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 10:36 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cold timing, was: Re: 390 intake


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>In a message dated 2/16/2001 10:12:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>bronco78 alaska.com writes:
>
><< darn
> oil pump shaft is not lined up correctly and will not allow the dist to
> completely drop down, use an extension and 5/16 socket (or correct size
for
> your shaft) to turn the shaft a little, install dist.. >>
>
>Instead of doin this, just bump the starter while having someone safely
push
>down on the dizzy.  It'll seat up just fine, and you dont have to worry
about
>loosing a socket in your engine.
>
>Darrell & Tweety
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:12:36 EST
Subject: Funny noises??


Hey folks, Im in need of a lil help.  I have a 78 400 in a 73 F-250 that is
giving me fits.  The engine had sat for a long time, and was then run (not by
me, Im not this stupid) on the existing varnished gas.  When it was found
that it ran, it was shut down and left for about 6 months till the project
was turned over to me.  Well what this did was cause all of the intkae valves
to be stuck in the last running position do to the gummy varnished gas.  When
I went to fire the engine on clean gas, and a new carb (the varnished gas
also killed the old carb) It promptly bent ALL the intake pushrods and
ejected a few lifters.  I bought new pushrods and reassembled everything.
But Now I have a tick that sounds like valves out of adjustment.  Im getting
very tired of this engine, and may end up torching the truck, but before I do
that I am wondering how much Marvel Oil to add to an oil change to see if
that clears it up.  And if I need to change the oil right afterward, or if I
can leave it in there for a lil while.  When I fire it again Im going to pour
ATF down the carb to make sure the valves clean up and stay unstuck.  Any
advice is greatly appreciated.

Darrell & Tweety

P.S.  Due to circumstances steadfastly beyound my control, Im unable to work
on Tweety till this truck is gone.  PLEASE HELP I've been without 460 power
for far too long to have some POS truck that shoulda gotten a new motor get
in my way.


------------------------------

From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 240/300 engine removal & work stand questions
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:46:53 -0800


I just got the shop manual for my '69 F100 on CDROM.

The section on the 240/300 engines mentions that I need a special
"hook" tool to lift up the engine. The hook attaches somewhere between
the intake manifold and the head. The manual also shows a 240/300
engine mounted to a stand and the engine is mounted sideways using a
special plate, and not longitudinally like the V8 engines.

So I am wondering if there is a way to lift the engine with normal
engine lift chains. If so, what are the holes to use for the bolts?

Once I have done that, how would I mount the engine on a normal engine
stand (the three-legged type you get from JCWhitney or Harbor Freight
tools)? Or is there a better way to mount the engine for working on.

BTW, I've ordered the Offy intake, 390cfm holley card and a dynomax
header.

Thanks.

Ben
'69 Flareside F100

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:41:08 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Ford 9"


At 02:25 PM 2/16/01 -0500, you wrote:
>People say they lock under certain
>conditions but the design I studied has no locking mechanism, just gears
>which is why they are so popular, they are very smooth under all conditions.

I used to own an Audi Quattro, which had locking diffs, but had many
discussions on this subject (Torsens, which were on newer Audis than mine,)
on the Quattro list.

What originally prompted the discussion was a Audi driver got stuck on his
driveway and wanted to know what to do go get over the area where opposite
wheels on the front and rear axles would go airborne.  The quick answer
which I dispensed was to pull up on the e-brake.  This did in fact work, so
that may be how some people think a Torsen can lock up totally.

It was a Quattro list member who told me about the Truetrac/Torsen
connection, they are both gear driven locking diffs, so I think there may
be some connection, I don't have proof.  The same person pointed me to a
white paper on various diffs, which concluded that Torsens were the best,
it was quite technical and had lots of good math and graphs, but I can't
remember the URL.

As to the numbers, you and I are saying the same thing.  For example if you
have the same 50 ft/lbs traction on one side, and unlimited traction on the
other, and an open diff, you will be able to give the vehicle throttle
enough to where the poor traction side tire applies 50 ft/lbs to the
ground, and any more than that and it will start spinning.  Thus the most
traction available before spinning will be 100 ft/lbs, 50 ft/lbs on both
sides, any more and the poor traction side starts spinning, and the other
side does nothing, and the vehicle goes nowhere.

All the numbers are with not using any tricks, such as pulling the e-brake
or applying the brakes.  All of these tricks allow the poor traction side
to receive engine torque and transfer it to heat while the other side
applies it to the ground.  Torsens work particularly well with this because
of their high bias ratio, which allow the traction side more power to
overcome the brake on its side than a traditional clutch type limited
slip.  I have used these tricks even on open diffs with some success.


George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:48:50 EST
Subject: Re: 240/300 engine removal & work stand questions


In a message dated 2/16/01 1:43:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bluesky6 ix.netcom.com writes:

<< Once I have done that, how would I mount the engine on a normal engine
stand (the three-legged type you get from JCWhitney or Harbor Freight
tools)? Or is there a better way to mount the engine for working on.
 >>

Last 6 cyl I rebuilt I put on the stand the same way as any V-8, by way of
the bellhousing mounting holes.  So long as you have good bolts, and a decent
quality engine stand you will be just fine.  We had this engine sitting like
this for about a year or so, taking our time (waitin on money) to get it done
right.  As far as the removal goes, I pulled the head off while the engine
was in the truck, and attached the chain to the front right and rear left
head bolt holes, making sure not to damage the block deck in the process.
Make sure you have EVERYTHING off the front of the motor, or you will not
clear the firewall and the core support, these engines are just a tad to long
for even the balancer to stay in place.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 240/300 engine removal & work stand questions
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:06:53 -0800


Thanks! I've never done this before, so I wanted to make sure
beforehand that I knew what I was going to do (at least in theory) :-)

If I am installing a long block (already with the heads on), how would
I put the chain(s)?



Ben


On Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:48:50 EST, you wrote:

%
%Last 6 cyl I rebuilt I put on the stand the same way as any V-8, by
way of
%the bellhousing mounting holes.  So long as you have good bolts, and
a decent
%quality engine stand you will be just fine.  We had this engine
sitting like
%this for about a year or so, taking our time (waitin on money) to get
it done
%right.  As far as the removal goes, I pulled the head off while the
engine
%was in the truck, and attached the chain to the front right and rear
left
%head bolt holes, making sure not to damage the block deck in the
process.
%Make sure you have EVERYTHING off the front of the motor, or you will
not
%clear the firewall and the core support, these engines are just a tad
to long
%for even the balancer to stay in place.
%
%Darrell & Tweety
%=============================================================
%To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
%Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:07:43 -0500
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Re: 70 Parking light


Tim
I think i have one
Joe

Tim and Pam Allgire wrote:

> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> those are hard to come by around here for a used one. Check out LMC  or
> Dennis Carpenter.They should be able to help you out.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 3:56 AM
> Subject: [61-79-list] 70 Parking light
>
> >----------------------------------------------------------
> >Support FTE - Check out our store:
> >http://www.motorhaven.com/
> >----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >I need a Drivers side front parking light (the yellow one under the
> >headlight) for a 70 F-100 Ranger.
> >
> >Anyone happen to have one?  That's all I need to pass inspection.
> >
> >
> >George Selby
> >78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
> >86 Nissan 300ZX
> >92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
> >gselby4x4 earthlink.net
> >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com
> >
> >=============================================================
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> >
>
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> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:27:10 -0800 (PST)


Gary wrote:
> I think you can test it pretty easily by simply putting it in second
> and stomping it from a rolling stop.

Except that I have an auto. :(

> I usually try that at some point then back off about 2 degrees to
> give yourself a little margin because the kind of detonation that does
> the most damage is detonation you can't hear.....In racing engines this
> is very commonly missed due to the exhaust noise but in touring engines
> it can usually be heard before damage is done unless you do have loud
> exhaust in which case you may want to be a little more conservative with
> the timing to be safe.

You mean like headers and a 2 into 1 flowmaster with a 3" outlet?  Is
there
some other way to diagnose pinging beside the sound?  I have seen spark
plug charts with the electrodes eaten away that said it was due to timing
too advanced.  Can it be diagnosed on an exhaust analyser?


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4
in digest mode


------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 15:32:47 -0800 (PST)


Gary wrote:
> As Azie said the crank key way is exactly on TDC but how will you
> determine where straight up is with any accuracy?

I can't remember exactly how it looked, but I was thinking the front of
the crank didn't stick out past the end of the balancer too much and the
keyway in the balancer would be easy to see so I should be able to see
it within a couple degrees with a straightedge after removing the pulley.
No?


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4
in digest mode



------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: TDC was :Re: Timing my motor
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:02:43 -0800 (PST)


Erik wrote:
> A dial indicator and spark plug hole adapter is fairly inexpensive tool
> and will tell ya exactly when you are at TDC, Plus, if ya spend a little
> more and get a better dial, you could also use it on many other projects
> with the addition of a mag base or other holding fixture.

Cool, another tool I can buy. :)  How does the spark plug hole adapter
work when the hole is at such an angle?  Can you use the type of
indicator with an arm, or does it have to be the kind that pushes
straight in?


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4
now in live mode


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: TDC was :Re: Timing my motor
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:00:55 -0900


>>Erik wrote:
>> A dial indicator and spark plug hole adapter is fairly inexpensive tool
>> and will tell ya exactly when you are at TDC, Plus, if ya spend a little
>> more and get a better dial, you could also use it on many other projects
>> with the addition of a mag base or other holding fixture.
>

Then Mark wrote
>Cool, another tool I can buy. :)  How does the spark plug hole adapter
>work when the hole is at such an angle?  Can you use the type of
>indicator with an arm, or does it have to be the kind that pushes
>straight in?
>
And Erik replied

You would need a dial that has the pin moving straight through the center.
They seem to work very well even though it is at an angle against the piston
head. When I use mine I move that particular piston to I believe is TDC,
insert the adapter, insert the dial in to the adapter adjust the dial so
that it is the center of movement, then ya just turn the crank a little each
way, like tuning a radio,. where ever the needle stops it's travel and
reverses, that is TDC. I guess you could have a problem if your piston dome
had a weird profile that prevented the dial rod from moving slightly across
the piston top as it came up. But I have had no such problem in the times
I've used it.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:21:23 -0800
From: Eric <ekdonaldson bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Fwd: Funny noises??



I had a very gummed up Buick and tried this drastic remedy: I replaced the
oil with 3 qts Varsol and 1 qt good detergent oil, let idle for 20 minutes,
drained it, filled it with good oil, ran it for afew miles and changed it
again. It worked - all the lifters settled down and it ran like a champ.
But I did it knowing I was courting disaster...
Eric D


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:33:54 -0600
From: Andrew Rolfsen <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: possible parting of a 63


bumsville alabama

Dennis Pearson wrote:

> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> OK, now,  where are you?
>
> Andrew Rolfsen wrote:
>   everything except the 9" rear end on my 63
> > will be up for sale, including the all original 351c. i will also be keeping the
> > c6 3 speed tranny.
> >
> > andrew
> >
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
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> Please remove this footer when replying.

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---------------
negativeimage
1971 javelin w/304
1974 javelin w/232



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:34:27 -0600
From: Andrew Rolfsen <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: possible parting of a 63


buying it tomorrow

"Southerland, Rich" wrote:

> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> and you haven't bought it yet?!?!? :)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Rolfsen [mailto:negativeimage earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 7:29 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] possible parting of a 63
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> well folks, i have come across a hell of a deal. a guy here in town has a 70
> torino gt with the 351c 4v, and shaker hood. he's only asking $1000, but
> only
> because he doesn't know what it is. he thinks it's a mercury of some sort
> and
> has a 351w in it. so, if i buy it, everything except the 9" rear end on my
> 63
> will be up for sale, including the all original 351c. i will also be keeping
> the
> c6 3 speed tranny.
>
> andrew
>
> =============================================================
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> Please remove this footer when replying.
> =============================================================
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--
---------------
negativeimage
1971 javelin w/304
1974 javelin w/232



------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 21:53:09 EST
Subject: Re: Cold timing, was: Re: 390 intake

In a message dated 02/16/01 2:54:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bronco78 alaska.com writes:

Nope, not me. I've always put it in to line up right, then take thee rotor
and turn it ccw to back it back up and out till the gears jsut disengauge and
continue turning till it's one tooth off. When she goes back down as far as
it can (but not al the way) and one quick bump with the remote started and
she's droped right in. Best part is it's in the timing range I need (assuming
you started the procedure with #1 on compression at TDC). After that it's a
matter of hitting it with the timing light anyway since it was out. But I
guess to each their own as long as it works for them.
Sorry for the babble, but it's kinda tough to explain by typing.......


George M in Fl.

'79 Bronco 400 & C6, NP205
'91 Taurus, 3.0 & $#!%# AXOD
'92 E150 Conversion, 5.0 & EAOD (I thinks)


> true, but then the crank and timing marks are no longer in the correct
> position, and ya have to do that all over again. 20 sec and a piece of tape
> and you will not loose the socket, or do it the correct way and use your oil
> pump priming adapter,,, every body has one of those in the roll-away
> right??? either a purchased one, or one created from an old dist??
>





------------------------------

From: "jason merritt" <jasonfmerritt mmcable.com>
Subject: 390 distributor
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:39:39 -0600

Thank all of you guys for your help I got everything running found TDC got the distributor on the right tooth and everything just needed to be dialed in look at the oil pressure gauge no pressure pull the distributor out and the oil pump shaft is not lined up. how do I line it up and keep it there.


------------------------------

From: "Linda Zahn" <us5zahns earthlink.net>
Subject: setting valves on 460
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 19:29:41 -0800


Hello all,
 I am planning on changing the valve springs on my 460 soon.  The engine
has been running rough and coughing when I accelerate and idle.  I have
taken it to a mechanic who said he found a broken spring and replaced it.
It still ran rough but not as bad so I took it back and he said he found
another weak spring and replaced it.  It is a little better but still the
same type of problem.  I was planing on replacing all the springs myself and
was looking for a little help.  I have never done this before and want to do
it with the heads still on.  Any suggestions or tips on doing this might
save me some headaches later.
 The other problem I have is how to adjust the valves after the springs are
replaced.  I have read several manuals on this procedure and they are all
different.  One says the nut should only tighten 3/4 of a turn after the
push rod contacts the lifter.  Another says use feeler gauges to set in the
closed position and adjust with shims under the rocker arms.  Another says
just tighten the rocker nuts to 25 lbs and leave it.   HELP.
thanks,
FredZ
Simi Valley, CA
71 F350 Dully


------------------------------

From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Wrong Offy & 351W
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:49:57 -0800


The Offy intake I order from JCWhitney arrived today. It was a "C"
series one. JCWhitney listed it for $199.99 when PAW is selling that
for $169 (I got the PAW catalog after ordering with JCWhitney). I may
end up ordering the dual port torque manifold from PAW instead.

Unless...

I've been looking at 351W engines. A 351W rebuilt long block is about
the same price as the rebuilt 300 I was looking at. Has anyone done a
240/300 to 351W swap on a '67-'72 truck?

Ben

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: TDC was :Re: Timing my motor
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 00:14:29 -0500


somebody makes an adaptor that you screw into  plug hole  No. 1  that
whistles as you rotate the motor by hand and when the piston is coming up
(on the exhaust stroke) when it stops whistling you will be at TDC.  I saw
this little  gadget on Hot Rod TV. Then set the dist. so the rotor is
pointing at  the No. 1 post on the dist. cap.
-----Original Message-----
From: draco pacifier.com <draco pacifier.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Cc: draco shell.pacifier.com <draco shell.pacifier.com>
Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 7:16 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: TDC was :Re: Timing my motor


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
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>
>Erik wrote:
>> A dial indicator and spark plug hole adapter is fairly inexpensive tool
>> and will tell ya exactly when you are at TDC, Plus, if ya spend a little
>> more and get a better dial, you could also use it on many other projects
>> with the addition of a mag base or other holding fixture.
>
>Cool, another tool I can buy. :)  How does the spark plug hole adapter
>work when the hole is at such an angle?  Can you use the type of
>indicator with an arm, or does it have to be the kind that pushes
>straight in?
>
>
>Mark in Southwest Washington
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
>--
>'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4
>now in live mode
>
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------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:03:16 -0800


Every second turn of the crank will also turn the cam in such a way that the
dots pass each other in the center (assuming it it has the correct
relationship in the first place of course :-)) so you turn the crank up and
the cam down so they line up.  Some OHC engines have marks all over the
place and you line them up with something on the engine rather than each
other which can be confusing without a book to point this out but our old
trucks all have the timing chain and sprockets which are relatively close
together and very easy to line up.  You just "Connect the dots" so to speak
:-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Can you clarify this? I'm not disagreeing in the least. The crank
> makes two
> revs for the cam's one. How do the dots on the gears line up? Doesn't the
> dot on the crank go up and the cam down? Sheesh I can't remember
> but I know
> that if you don't know how to do it right it is easy to misconstrue and do
> it wrong.
>
> -- John


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: setting valves on 460
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:15:17 -0800


There are 3 types of rockers on a 460 that I know of and they all work a
little differently.  Get a copy of the HP book by Tom Monroe (Rebuiilding
your Ford big block) and follow directions.  It's a 460 0wner's bible :-)
Also remember that when you do work on the engine, especially the heads the
position of the rockers relative to the lifters will change and in some
cases, new push rods are required to make the stock rockers work correctly.
They can be purchased in different lengths for almost any engine.  If you
are running hydraulic lifters, stay away from the adjustable push rods.
More adjusments mean more things to come unglued.  With solids sometimes you
have no choice.  The trick is to get all the lifters preloaded approximately
the same amount with some room to fluctuate without bottoming or topping.
It is possible to over pre-load the lifters to the extent that you actually
keep the valves from seating properly but leaving them too loose will cause
damage too.  BTW, lifters are so cheap they should be replaced when you do
top end work and never, ever, ever, ever put old lifters back in the wrong
hole, ever!!!  You can destroy a cam in a couple of hundred miles easily by
doing this.  I once took all the lobes off a pinto engine cam because I was
too cheap to replace the cam followers with new ones when I replaced the cam
BUMMER! ##$$%!  The rule is that you can replace the lifters with new on an
old cam but never, ever the other way around, ever......

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>   The other problem I have is how to adjust the valves after the
> springs are
> replaced.  I have read several manuals on this procedure and they are all
> different.  One says the nut should only tighten 3/4 of a turn after the
> push rod contacts the lifter.  Another says use feeler gauges to
> set in the
> closed position and adjust with shims under the rocker arms.  Another says
> just tighten the rocker nuts to 25 lbs and leave it.   HELP.
> thanks,
> FredZ


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 390 distributor
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:26:19 -0800


How did you get it to run with the dizzy sticking up out of the block?  How
did you clamp the dizzy?  I use several methods to line it up.....first I
try just bumping the end of the dizzy against the drive shaft (Lift it up
(within the range of the gear engagement) and let it drop a couple of times)
untill it jogs itself around to slip in.  If that doesn't get it done then I
pull the dizzy, rotate the pump shaft 1/16 turn or so and try it again.  If
you have a remote start switch made up or can reach the start selenoid from
where you are holding the dizzy down then you can bump the starter while
maintaining pressure and it should drop into place.  I sometimes use all 3
methods on one stubborn engine to get it done but one of these methods is
gauranteed to work regardless :-)

As you probably have already figure out the gears are helical in nature and
the dizzy rotates as it drops in.  To get it in the correct orientation with
the engine you have to "Second guess" it a little by starting 1/8 turn
counter clockwise from where you want it to stop (roughly).  This counter
rotation is what mucks up the works when trying to line up that shaft :-)
Hard to guess where it needs to be til you do it a few times :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Thank all of you guys for your help I got everything running
> found TDC got the distributor on the right tooth and everything
> just needed to be dialed in look at the oil pressure gauge no
> pressure pull the distributor out and the oil pump shaft is not
> lined up. how do I line it up and keep it there.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:28:49 -0800


If the radiator is in place this will be very difficult to do accurately
enough to determine your true TDC.  For one thing, the keyway is so far
inside the damper you won't be able to really get a good location off of it
and for the other, with radiator in place you won't be able to line your eye
up with the straight edge.......

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Gary wrote:
> > As Azie said the crank key way is exactly on TDC but how will you
> > determine where straight up is with any accuracy?
>
> I can't remember exactly how it looked, but I was thinking the front of
> the crank didn't stick out past the end of the balancer too much and the
> keyway in the balancer would be easy to see so I should be able to see
> it within a couple degrees with a straightedge after removing the pulley.
> No?
>
>
> Mark in Southwest Washington


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:34:18 -0800


That's why I said "Second" instead of third :-)  Trust me, you pull away
from a stop in second with your foot to the floor and it will spark knock if
it's ever going to :-)

If you pull the plugs and the electrodes are burned off you better
disassemble the engine and start over :-(  Normally you can see spark knock
in the form of shiny metal spots on the porcelain which will stay there even
after blasting lighty if severe enough.  I've seen them so bad they looked
like fools gold with little specs all over them.  The metal will actually
etch the porcelain when the condition is severe.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
....


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