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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Thu, 15 Feb 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 049

In This Issue:
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
new 460 missing
Re: Minus 40 Degrees
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Tires for Sale
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: Minus 40 Degrees
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
390 intake
possible parting of a 63
Re: New Ford 9"
Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Re: 390 intake
Re: brake drums
Re: new 460 missing
Re: New Ford 9"
70 Parking light
460 conversion question
Re: 460 conversion question
203 to 205???

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 13:33:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> On the way to work there is a hill with a cinderblock wall on the side of
> the road.  I can hear sounds from the truck bouncing off the wall that I
> normally wouldn't hear.

That is a real good procedure for diagnosing bad u-joints in your drive
shaft. The noise reflects from under the truck, off the wall, right into
your open window.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:36:03 EST
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice


In a message dated 02/15/2001 12:57:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
draco pacifier.com writes:

<< BTW, the vacuum diaphram is on ported vacuum and is contributing 0
advance at idle. >>

That is exactly the way it is supposed to work! You should only begin to get
timing advance after the throttle plates are opened a little.

Rollie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 13:30:16 -0700
From: "William Whited (Tony)" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: new 460 missing


I just had my mechanic rebuild me 460 in my 77.  First he had a problem
with the carb dumping fuel in the motor, which he ended up fixing.  Now
he can not get it to run right it is idling really rough and has a
miss.  He has supposively done everything right, but it is still there
any ideas?????  TIA

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F350 Ranger XLT Super Camper Special 460
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: Minus 40 Degrees
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:47:17 -0500

> > I have done it all too many times out in the driveway at -40 degrees
> > Celsius (damn cold!).
>
> You Canadians think that's cold?  You should try it at minus 40 degrees
> Fahrenheit!  Now THAT'S cold!

It certainly is damn cold ... I wouldn't want to live in it.
... but -40 C = -40 F !  Its where the two scales converge

C = 5/9 (F-32)
F = (9/5 C) + 32







------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:04:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> << BTW, the vacuum diaphram is on ported vacuum and is contributing 0
>  advance at idle. >>
>
> That is exactly the way it is supposed to work! You should only begin to get
> timing advance after the throttle plates are opened a little.

Well, I'll probably regret this, but...if your throttle butterflies or your
choke butterfly close all of the way, your engine won't run. There is a
bypass path where your idle mix screws are. I was always taught that timing
was part of a spec that included the rpm where it was to be set. Generally,
you set your timing with vacuum disconnected from the distributor and all
vacuum lines plugged so that there are no leaks. Every engine I can remember
setting immediately gained timing and rpm as soon as the vacuum lines were
hooked back up. On emission controlled systems, part of the vacuum tree's
function (located in the thermostat housing) is to prevent vacuum from
advancing the timing until the coolant reaches a certain temperature.

Now please note that I did not suggest ported over manifold or vice versa.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 22:49:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice


>I tried timing my motor by vacuum and ended up with max vacuum around 16
>deg BTDC

Mark, I know we've talked about this before, but if you're not pinging, I can't
see why 14-16 wouldn't work with a stock compression ration on a 76 motor ...


I would think the cam would love 12-14, and if its at 16 or so, maybe the timing
chain moves the cam off of straight up a bit making it come in at 16 instead
of 14 or 12 ... just a theory there.

I finally got mine tuned up pretty good, but still can't get the idle down where
I want it without killing it when I drop it into gear (auto).  My throttle plates
were too far open causing the idle circuit to be ignored almost completely,
but now its still at 900rpm's in P/N and that doesn't seem low enough to me,
but any lower and it dies off ...  *shrug* ... things to play with in warm weather
...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:52:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> I finally got mine tuned up pretty good, but still can't get the idle down
where
> I want it without killing it when I drop it into gear (auto).  My throttle
plates
> were too far open causing the idle circuit to be ignored almost completely,
> but now its still at 900rpm's in P/N and that doesn't seem low enough to me,
> but any lower and it dies off ...  *shrug* ... things to play with in warm
weather
> ...

wish,
You probably have a general vacuum leak or a leak between the carb and the
manifold, possibly between the intake manifold and the head. Or you may be
cammed up so much that's it.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 11:54:21 -0800


Man, you really stepped into it this time buddy........:-)  The reason for
the idle speed as part of the timing spec should be obvious......the
mechanical advance is designed to work progressively from zero or idle up to
about 3200 rpm or so in a street engine and the initial spring is very
light, the second being loose at idle and coming into play as the rotor
advances so it takes very little rpm gain to start the advance mechanism
moving, thus the specification for rpm :-)  Rpm also affects the absolute
vacuum due to higher rate of evacuation in the engine with unchanged size of
leaks (carb etc...) which doesn't affect the initial timing but does affect
the idle mixture, throttle setting which affects the vac and thus the idle
condition.

As you change the timing you also change the mixture requirements and ported
vs manifold does have a significant impact on where these adjustments should
be specd at.  As you say, since the throttle plate is partially open it is
likely that some vacuum is reaching the vac motor on the dizzy and may move
it slightly increasing the advance even with ported vac but not nearly as
much as would happen with manifold vac.  Typical timing at idle with
manifold is 40 degrees or so and with ported roughly at initial.

When I time an engine the first thing I do is play with the idle mixture
balance and idle speed then check the timing.  If it's way off then I make
sure the vac is, indeed, working properly, reset the initial, retune the
carb and check it again.  As John says, the idle has to be properly adjusted
first before any timing can be accurately set and the process may require at
least two cycles or more to get it right because timing affects mixture
requirments and mixture affects timing requirments for a smooth running
engine.  Rough idle is almost but not always the result of a vacuum leak but
other things can do it too of course :-)

Now, if you have the wrong springs in the dizzy then...............and then
if........

BTW, if you can't hear the spark knock going by that wall I'd bet you are
pretty safe :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> > << BTW, the vacuum diaphram is on ported vacuum and is contributing 0
> >  advance at idle. >>
> >
> > That is exactly the way it is supposed to work! You should only
> begin to get
> > timing advance after the throttle plates are opened a little.
>
> Well, I'll probably regret this, but...if your throttle
> butterflies or your
> choke butterfly close all of the way, your engine won't run. There is a
> bypass path where your idle mix screws are. I was always taught
> that timing
> was part of a spec that included the rpm where it was to be set.


------------------------------

From: "Daniel Beiers" <dbeiers rmpprestress.com>
Subject: Tires for Sale
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:03:17 -0600

Hey guys,
I have a set of (4) Goodyear MT's 33x12.5 (not the new style) that I need to
get rid of.  The GY's are at the halfway point as far as tread.  Looking for
120 for all (4).  I also have a Brand new, never-hit-the asphalt,
still-has-the-sticker on-it BFG Mud 33x12.5, I think I need to try to get
about 50 bucks for this one.  I am in Denver.  Tires will be available
around the beginning of March.  Please spread the word if you know anyone
interested in 33's.

oh yeah 15" rim in case it could be something else.

Gracias
Dan
86 CJ-7 sans-tires
67 Ford F-100


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 00:02:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice


>You probably have a general vacuum leak

Checked all the hoses and such, they're all in good shape (motor's still young
:)

>or a leak between the carb and the
>manifold,

Possibly ... I'll double check it as it looked like a spot might be odd there,
but still expect it to act differently 'cause at 1,000 rpm's and more it is
near perfect ...

>possibly between the intake manifold and the head.

Ugh, its an FE, don't even start that thought!

> Or you may be
>cammed up so much that's it.
>

that's what I'm suspecting, the cam is huge, I don't have all the specs, but
here's the basics :

Cam Lift .296 .311 (intake/exhaust)
Valve Lift .512 .538
SAE Duration 292/302
0.050 Duration 214/224
Lobe Centers 104/120

Supposed to "bleed off" some compression to avoid spark knock with the insane
compression ratio I ended up with (10:1 or so :)  ... so I'm thinkin it might
be a bit too little vaccuum at idle to get things working right ... like I said
though I'll try and check for a carb gasket leak ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:24:35 -0800


That's a lot of cam.  I would expect a cam with those specs to require a
serious idle, at least 800 rpm and even then it should be loping.  I had an
isky cam that was what they called a 3/4 at the time and I'm sure it was in
that range and that little engine loped like an angry dragon......pretty
cool actually for such a small engine :-)

10:1 is on the edge but not radical I would say for today's premium.  Not
sure what it does in an FE but in a 460 I would expect no problems with
that?  With that cam you should have no spark knock at all :-)  With an RV
cam maybe......

That vacuum thing may be biting you more than you think too in that the carb
needs a "Signal" to operate well at low rpms and vacuum is what makes it
happen.  At higher rpms there is enough air flow to make it work well so
some tune trial and error may be needed too.  What carb are you using?  What
tranny?  Is it through a high stall converter? (if auto).

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Ugh, its an FE, don't even start that thought!
>
> > Or you may be
> >cammed up so much that's it.
> >
>
> that's what I'm suspecting, the cam is huge, I don't have all the
> specs, but
> here's the basics :
>
> Cam Lift .296 .311 (intake/exhaust)
> Valve Lift .512 .538
> SAE Duration 292/302
> 0.050 Duration 214/224
> Lobe Centers 104/120


------------------------------

From: "Stevel" <canzus seanet.com>
Subject: Re: Minus 40 Degrees
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:15:38 -0800



----- Original Message -----
From: Serian <serian mailandnews.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, 15 February, 2001 12:47 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Minus 40 Degrees


> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > I have done it all too many times out in the driveway at -40 degrees
> > > Celsius (damn cold!).
> >
> > You Canadians think that's cold?  You should try it at minus 40 degrees
> > Fahrenheit!  Now THAT'S cold!

Me thinks you missed the joke...

> It certainly is damn cold ... I wouldn't want to live in it.
> ... but -40 C = -40 F !  Its where the two scales converge

I misspent my youth in Toronto,  I know what cold is,  I remember
nights out playing street hockey when the wind chill was -50...

Stevel




------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:08:01 -0700


> I am wondering if my harmonic balancer may have slipped.  I am pretty sure
> it's the type with rubber between the two pieces.  How can I check
> this?  Does the TDC mark usually line up with one of the bolts on the
> pulley?  Does it line up with the keyway on the crankshaft?

I had this problem on my 429 in my T-Bird.  I had easy access to the
balancer and all my plugs were out so the engine was easy to turn with a
ratchet.  I put a screwdriver through the plug hole and then slowly turned
the  engine by hand until the screwdriver topped out and started back down.
The TDC mark should line up with the timing indicator at this point.  Mine
was way off.  I'm not sure at what point in time it slipped, but I swear I
had it timed at the 6 degree mark as suggested by the manual.  When I
finally checked it, the danged thing had slipped 70 degrees.  I sent it off
to Damper Dudes in Anderson, California for a rebuild and I was impressed
with their work.  And even with shipping, it was about half the cost of a
new one.  They claim it is better that factory units too.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:01:57 -0800


I agree with Wish if this is the cam we are all talking about (near 300
overlap?).  I don't know why off hand (can't think right now) but it seems
like when you go to that kind of spec the timing always needs more advance.
Typically higher compression (either static or dynamic, equates to absolute
cylinder pressure at the top of the compression stroke) requires less
advance due to faster flame propagation but at lower speeds you have lower
compression with a fat cam as well as leaner mixtures so the initial needs
to be higher me thinks to get it to run.  I would guess that an engine with
a fat cam would want more initial but narrower stops in the mechanical
advance to keep the over all timing about the same so more than one thing
needs to be considered when installing such a cam.  The timing advance
requirements cancel each other at about 3000 rpm which is why there is no
more mechanical advance after that.  Rpm shortens the flame burn time
available so more advance is needed but richer mixture and higher
compression requires less advance for the rpm so as it climbs above 3000 the
compression and richness goes up to offset the rpm requirement etc...(Ok,
thinking cap started working again :-))

Another thing just occured to me......some throttle plates have a hole in
them for idle purposes.  It allows enough air to run the engine without
upsetting the "Tip In" threshhold controlled by the location of the edge of
the throttle plate relative to the transition slot.  I wonder if something
like that would help?  Another thing that may be causing some grief is a
sticking secondary plate and some carbs even have adjustable secondary
stops.  If the secondarys are partially open, even a tiny little bit they
will destroy any hope of signal to the idle circuit.  I've been bitten by
that one.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I would think the cam would love 12-14, and if its at 16 or so,
> maybe the timing
> chain moves the cam off of straight up a bit making it come in at
> 16 instead
> of 14 or 12 ... just a theory there.
>
> I finally got mine tuned up pretty good, but still can't get the
> idle down where
> I want it without killing it when I drop it into gear (auto).  My
> throttle plates
> were too far open causing the idle circuit to be ignored almost
> completely,
> but now its still at 900rpm's in P/N and that doesn't seem low
> enough to me,
> but any lower and it dies off ...  *shrug* ... things to play
> with in warm weather
> ...
>
> Just my $.02
> wish


------------------------------

From: "jason merritt" <jasonfmerritt mmcable.com>
Subject: 390 intake
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:59:19 -0600

I have the intake in place. Now I have a question about the distributor installation. Is the oil pump shaft supposed to stay in the oil pump where you can just see the top of it? My other question is everything says to rotate the block to 0 TDC  where is that? If somebody could give me detailed instructions I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you for your help,
Jason


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:28:38 -0600
From: Andrew Rolfsen <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: possible parting of a 63


well folks, i have come across a hell of a deal. a guy here in town has a 70
torino gt with the 351c 4v, and shaker hood. he's only asking $1000, but only
because he doesn't know what it is. he thinks it's a mercury of some sort and
has a 351w in it. so, if i buy it, everything except the 9" rear end on my 63
will be up for sale, including the all original 351c. i will also be keeping the
c6 3 speed tranny.

andrew


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: New Ford 9"
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:57:33 -0800


I did some research on the Torsen a while back and it was originally the
Torsen/Gleason, degigned by Torsen, manufactured by Gleason but they've
split up now I guess.  Anyway it is a pure gear type locker with no ratchets
or spragues or other clutches in it that works strictly on differnetiation
between the two sides but within a limited ratio range.  In a full lock turn
the inside tire will turn slower than the outside by some ratio, generally
less than 2:1 so if you have intermediate gear "Links" to maintain the two
sides within that ratio, theoretically at least, you will have limited slip
with full differentiation, the best of both worlds and quiet as well but
they were very pricy last time I checked.

The True-Trak claims to be equal but it acutally uses some clutching of some
kind along with the gear links to do it's job.

The Torsen was designed to use in the Hummer so is a strong locker where the
True-Trak is generally considerd a light duty locker.  Both are limited slip
rather than true lockers in the 1:1 class so are prefered for such things as
ice and other greasy sufaces to maintain steerage in turns etc...  These,
theoretically, are superior to the friction lockers due to lack of
significant preload which tends to over drive the inside wheel in a turn on
very slippery surfaces like Ice.  Everyone I have talked to who have used
them have nothing but praise for them.

I was actually very impressed with the one LS I had in my van and they are
also the cheapest way to lock an axle so are still high on my list as
options.  Those can be run front and rear of course too on the highway with
no problems but again, on Ice, there will be a noticeable steerage reduction
if you lock the front axle but probably not an issue anywhere else.

Try a Mustang rear axle for a narrower version.  They were still the full,
good, strong 9" but narrower.  Obviously, any Ford axle you choose will have
to have the bracket removed or modified to fit the Jeep (I would think?)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Gary,
> I am considering a Detroit.  Never heard of a Torsen, what makes it more
> desirable?
>
> Were the 9"s on the 78 and newer trucks the same width as the older?  The
> reason I ask is that according to my measurements this axles
> should be about
> 8" wider than my stock Jeep axle.  Many of the 9's I measured out in the
> junkyard from different apps were wider.  I really want to stay within the
> 8" window (narrower would be better in fact)  Does anyone know
> for sure what
> the wheel mounting surface to surface dimension is for the truck 9's both
> pre and post 78?
>
> Thanks for your prompt reply Gary,
>
> Later,
> Dan


------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 23:11:39 EST
Subject: Re: Timing my motor - need advice


I need to be more clear on the point of the throttle plates being opened a
little. Well, you have to move the throttle plates from the idle position a
little in order to get the ported vacuum to engage the timing advance.

If you have ported vacuum timing advance at idle on a dual diaphragm
distributor, something is wrong (see over temperature diagnosis for PVS's).
There should be no ported vacuum at idle because the port is above the
throttle plates, which are mostly closed at idle. Manifold vacuum is from
below the throttle plates or in the intake manifold, which is why you have
vacuum there at idle and above idle (not WOT). The retarded side of the dual
diaphragm gets vacuum at idle and above. Yes, the ported vacuum can and will
overcome or at least remove (equalize) the retard vacuum.

There is a system that uses an over temperature PVS (ported vacuum switch).
It allows vacuum timing advance when the engine temperature gets too high.
This helps cool down an engine by advancing the timing and producing higher
rpms. There are more details than that, but I have written too much already.

This is why you have to disconnect and plug the vacuum lines in order to set
the timing. The retard side of the diaphragm is a moveable stop for the idle
timing. If you leave it hooked up while setting the timing you will have way
too much advance while cruising the highway. This is because you have
advanced the timing at idle to overcome it. Then when the ported advance
comes in just off idle, you have a spark knock under low speed acceleration
under load. Disconnecting the ported vacuum line is just a safety measure. It
is possible for it to be allowing some vacuum at idle (see over temperature
diagnosis of PVS's), so disconnecting it removes this possibility for error
because of the different types of systems out there.

You have to know what the original system used is in order to diagnose or
repair it correctly.

Rollie




------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 390 intake
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:18:06 -0800


Well, as long as you have the valve covers off it's pretty easy.  Turn the
engine over till the intake opens and begins closing then slowly rotate in
the direction it normally runs while holding a thin screw driver in the
number one spark plug hole until you feel it stop moving upward.  If you
have a delicate feel you can get within 10 degrees or so that way but the
proper way is to use positive piston stops and a degree wheel.  If you are
assuming your damper is still accurate then it is very easy, forget the
screw driver and just rotate until the marks line up once the
intake/compression cycle has been determined etc. as above.

You rotate the "Crank" to TDC.......on the compression stroke, not the
exhaust stroke.  If you follow instructions above you will achieve that but
be aware that many old engines have dampers that are no longer accurate and
the degree wheel is the only accurate way to do it in that case.  You can
use the screw driver technique to verify the accuracy of the damper within
10 degrees or so at least.  I've always used the damper but folks on these
lists are making it clear that this is not necessarily a good idea, that is
to Assume they are good.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I have the intake in place. Now I have a question about the
> distributor installation. Is the oil pump shaft supposed to stay
> in the oil pump where you can just see the top of it? My other
> question is everything says to rotate the block to 0 TDC  where
> is that? If somebody could give me detailed instructions I would
> greatly appreciate it.
>
> Thank you for your help,
> Jason


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: brake drums
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 23:39:41 -0500


I was mistaken-its not in the Ford Truck Catalog,its in the regular  JC
Whitney Catalog that you will find the  brake drums.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim and Pam Allgire <tim-pam williams-net.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, February 15, 2001 12:07 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: brake drums


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>check out the J C   Whitney   Ford Truck  Catalog.  I think they  have them
>in there.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeff McCain <Jmccain servicetrends.com>
>To: '61-79-list fordtrucks.com' <61-79-list fordtrucks.com>
>Date: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 9:41 AM
>Subject: [61-79-list] brake drums
>
>
>>----------------------------------------------------------
>>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>>----------------------------------------------------------
>>Hello,  Does anyone have a front brake drum for a '63 F-100 they would
like
>>to sell or know who has one? My drum has fallen into the boat anchor
>>catagory and needs to be replaced. While I am planning to upgrade to disc
>>brakes this summer I would like to try to avoid spending the $65.00 the
>>local parts store wants for a new one.
>>
>>Thanks, Jeff
>>jmccain servicetrends.com
>>
>>=============================================================
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>>Please remove this footer when replying.
>>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 23:56:49 EST
Subject: Re: new 460 missing


In a message dated 2/15/01 12:26:29 PM Pacific Standard Time,
f10074 ford-trucks.com writes:

<<  Now
he can not get it to run right it is idling really rough and has a
miss.  He has supposively done everything right, but it is still there
any ideas?????  TIA >>

Well, since it has been all apart and this is the first it has been run.  I
would say that there is a very good chance that you have a vacuum leak or two
(carburetor, intake manifold gaskets, large component or hose leak such as to
the power brakes.  But, a good look at the ignition system, spark plug wires,
distributor cap, plugs, etc..., might also be in order.  If you previously
had a carb problem it might now have a different problem built into it.
Generally missing is caused by incorrect fuel air mixture, or lack of spark.
Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 03:35:53 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: New Ford 9"


At 01:59 PM 2/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >I am considering a Detroit.  Never heard of a Torsen, what makes it more
> >desirable?

A Torsen is available for many applications under the name Detroit
Truetrac.  They licensed the diff from Torsen and put their name on
it.  Main benefit is that a torsen can allow up to a 3:1 bias, while a
standard clutch type diff is limited to 4/3:1.  What this means in
practical terms is that if one tire is limited to 50 ft/lbs of torque and
the other one has unlimited traction potential the following would apply:

(1) open diff - 100 ft/lbs would get to the ground, as the unlimited
traction side would be limited to equal the other side (50+50)
(2) clutch type limited slip - gets 116.6 ft lbs to the ground additional
16.6 foot-lbs provided by the limited slip (50+66.6)
(2) Torsen type limited slip - gets 200 ft-lbs of torque, as Torsen allows
150 ft-lbs on traction side (50+150)
(3) Locker - gets the full power of the engine to the ground (50+ whatever
the engine can provide)

Torsen uses binding gears rather than clutches to achieve lockup.

George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 03:38:12 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: 70 Parking light


I need a Drivers side front parking light (the yellow one under the
headlight) for a 70 F-100 Ranger.

Anyone happen to have one?  That's all I need to pass inspection.


George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 03:49:15 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: 460 conversion question


In the previously mentioned 70 F-100 Ranger sits a non-smoking 400.  I am
going to stick it in my 78 F-150 4x4, which has a badly smoking engine.

No need to fret, however, I have a 460 out of a 73 van that will go in the
70 F-100.  I have the van manifolds, and several mounts are available for
the engine for around 100 bucks.  My main question now is the oil pan.  The
pan is shot on the van engine (due to the procedure used by the junkyard we
get some of our engines from.)  Most things I have read state a rear sump
pan is required.  They cost about 100 bucks more than the front sump pans
available (and I can get a front sump pan free.)  The 400 now in the truck
has a front sump pan.  So, does anyone know if a 460 with a front sump pan
will fit in a 70 2wd Ford F-100?  Truck has a C-6, in case it matters.

George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 03:55:05 EST
Subject: Re: 460 conversion question


Ive got a front sump on my 460 which was a factory instalation, but keep in
mind a lincoln pan has the drain plug on the side, where as on my truck its
on the back.  the lincoln pan tends to make for a messy oil change, but a lil
cardboard can fix that.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Matt" <draygo pacifier.com>
Subject: 203 to 205???
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 02:00:50 -0800

   Hey guys, I have a question for all you guru's out there. I have a '75
F250 with a c6 and a divorced np203 t-case. When I bought the truck, I
wanted to transplant the np435 w/married 205 from my '76 parts truck into
it, but now, I'm beginning to change my mind. I'm starting to get used to
the idea of having an automatic transmission since I don't hot dog with the
truck like I used to, and I figure an automatic will be easier to tow a
trailer. I also started thinking that all the 3/4 ton trucks had a divorced
t-case for a reason, and my married unit wouldn't work so well. The only
problem I haven't come to terms with is the 203 case. I really don't want a
full time case, and having that 205 just sitting there makes it that much
harder. So basically what I want to know is, does anyone know of some way to
change my married 205 into a divorced 205? Obviously the input would have to
be changed. Does anyone make an adapter for this? And what about the
....


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