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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 14 Feb 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 048

In This Issue:
Re: another 2x4 to 4x4 swap idea...
Re: New Ford 9"
Re: changing 390 intake
390 intake
Re: F-250's, fantasies...
Concrete Floor Repair
Re: Minus 40 Degrees
Re: Eave Gutters
Re: changing 390 intake
1963 (?) F-100XL
C6 for sale, FE block
Sludged intake
Re: Paint code
Re: Blue Bird Bus
crewcab & supercab for sale in georgia
Re: brake drums
Re: Sludged intake
Re: Cold weather, blown starter, and I'm happy?!?!
F-250 update & ???.......
Re: Blue Bird Bus
Re: another 2x4 to 4x4 swap idea...
what TAD to use, was: Re: New Ford 9"
Re: F-250 update & ???.......
Re: F-250 update & ???.......
Timing my motor - need advice

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 13:02:07 EST
Subject: Re: another 2x4 to 4x4 swap idea...


In a message dated 2/14/2001 6:56:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:

<< 4x4 swaps are jobs for people who know their way around a welding shop and
also have a head for engineering. >>

This is where my buddy, a certified welder for Caterpillar, comes in.  The
only thing Ive gotta figure out how to measure is the angle at which the
radius arms will be for that height so as to get the tabs welded onto the
housing in the correct spot for the premium castor setting.  This may end up
being something I farm out to a 4x4 shop.  Normally Id agree about finding
the correct Chassis and going for it.   But 4x4 F-350s arent very numerous,
and they dont have that cool 140'' wheelbase like mine has.

One quick question, did you modify the crossmember on that Van, or did you
just lift high enough to have clearance?  If you did just lift it, how high
did ya go?

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:05:18 GMT
Subject: Re: New Ford 9"


>I am considering a Detroit.  Never heard of a Torsen, what makes it more
>desirable?
>

The Torsen might be more desirable than a Detroit because it is much smoother
engaging and dis-engaging ... its also designed around street use, for those
of us tearing up the corners, so it allows for somewhat smoother turning and
quieter operation.  If you're restricting your machine to trails only, then
likely it won't make much difference which one you prefer.  I also haven't heard
any of the "new" Detroit's that are supposed to be quieter.

My line of thinking is Detroit for the truck, Torsen for my car, but then those
are considerably different applications from your own ...
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:06:31 GMT
Subject: Re: changing 390 intake


>The thermostat was a different size (you should replace that
>anyways), and the temp sender was a different size.

Mine were also different sizes, but there were no problems changing them, I'm
running the smaller thermostat housing just because the bigger one was more
pitted and looked like it would be harder to seal off ... the newer style mates
up fine and doesn't leak.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "jason merritt" <jasonfmerritt mmcable.com>
Subject: 390 intake
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:47:16 -0600

I am lucky enough to be working at the base hobby shop where they have a lift and a lot of tools to suplement what I don't have they also have a parts bath for cleaning everything up, as well as a place to work out of the weather.

Thank you everybody for all of your help so far,
Jason


------------------------------

From: "Compaq" <robo pathwaynet.com>
Subject: Re: F-250's, fantasies...
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 16:01:36 -0600


gary
 what year is the 250?  if its in the 70's  its the same as a 90's 350 add
a couple of leafs and your in

wildebeast aka robo

----------
> From: GaryBBB <gpeters3 lni.net>
> To: 61-79-List Ford-Trucks. Com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Subject: [61-79-list] F-250's, fantasies...
> Date: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 8:09 PM
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Well there's a F-250 for sale in Tecumseh for $1500.  Been waiting for
this
> opportunity but have decided I want a 350 so will pass it up.  Got the
203
> transfer case but have no clue what shape it's in....saw it in the paper.
I
> have the cash but don't want to be hasty :-)  I really want the HD stuff.
> Since I'm retired and don't plan to do any off roading that requires any
> special equipment I will probably wait for the right F-350 4x4 to come
along
> and sell off all my other trucks.  This will give me a truck I can
> conpletely fill the bed with stone and haul 70 mph down the eway with it
> with no worries and I can stick the plow on it and plow til the cows come
> home.  I really like the bronco but since my wife can't ride in it I
don't
> really have any more use for it.  I've decided that an F-350, 4x4 with
460
> will fulfill all my truck fantasies as well as handling any job I can
throw
> at it :-)  Not sure where I will start paring down to make room for it
and
> the bronco may well be the last to go (if it goes) but I definetly have
to
> "Exchange" something for any new additions :-)  Unfortunately that cash
also
> has about 100 other places it needs to go.........
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
>
>
> -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
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>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "mmiller14" <mmiller14 socal.rr.com>
Subject: Concrete Floor Repair
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:09:40 -0800


That retired old geezer, Gary, wrote:

> If you feel that raising the floor is the only option you better do
some
> research on how to make the new concrete stick well to the old.  The
> floor will have to be absolutely free of any oil soaked in and etched
with
> Muriatic acid etc...Even then a thin coating may still peel after some
> time.

The situation you describe exactly fits the purpose of Elmer's Concrete
Bonder.  It's a lot like white Elmer's glue, but specifically for what
you are
proposing to do.

Clean the floor, etch it like Gary says, hose it all out to get rid of
the acid,
let it dry, then buy about a gallon and a paint roller.  Roll it on and
use it
according to the directions.  Don't pour concrete in freezing weather!

Marv Miller - mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am"



------------------------------

From: "mmiller14" <mmiller14 socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Minus 40 Degrees
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:16:58 -0800


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca wrote:
> I have done it all too many times out in the driveway at -40 degrees
> Celsius (damn cold!).

You Canadians think that's cold?  You should try it at minus 40 degrees
Fahrenheit!  Now THAT'S cold!

(I know, I know!)  ;-)

Marv Miller - mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am"


------------------------------

From: "mmiller14" <mmiller14 socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Eave Gutters
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:27:30 -0800


Tom  <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com> wrote:
> I am considering rain gutters on the eaves but am afraid the
> definitive solution will be to pour more concrete to raise the floor.
> Any other ideas guys?

Definitely go with the guttering on the eaves.  It WILL make all the
difference.  Easy to do with the stuff at Home Depot.  E-note me
off-line for some installation tips.

Marv Miller - mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am"


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: changing 390 intake
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:31:15 -0800


I seem to remember that the OSHA limit on a single person lift is 40 lbs.
And I think that was a straight back lift with the knees kind of lift.  I
think a 2 person lift limit was like 60 or 65 lbs.  I know we all know
better than our gov't so I just throw this out as info.

Tom H.


>
> Many years ago, in a class I took it was mentioned that the
> vast majority of
> back injuries in the mechanic trade were due to improperly
> lifting batteries
> out of vehicles....same scenerio, leaning over too far with
> no support and
> often Jerking on it in that position.  Batteries weigh about
> half what an FE
> mainifold weighs and are less of a stretch.  If you have an engine
> hoist.....use it :-)
>
> The hoist does things for you even a strong helper can't
> allways do.  It
> allows you to lower the manifold onto the gaskets without
> damaging them or
> moving them out of place.  Try it, you'll never go back to
> doing it the hard
> way:-)  Engine hoists are cheap and if you do this stuff
> often then you
> should have one anyway :-)
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> > suggest you get some strong help to get the manifold off -
> I'm told it
> > weighs about 85lbs, which sounds do-able, but try to lift it
> > while leaning
> > over the front of a truck.
>
>

------------------------------

From: "NP 540" <np540 hotmail.com>
Subject: 1963 (?) F-100XL
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:04:27


Hi!
I recently bought a bunch of old car magazines from eBay, and in
one of them: Popular Hot Rodding, August 1964, pages 60-61, there
is an article about the factory F-100XL pickup for drag-racing, kinda
like an early version of the lightning. That truck was a "unibody"
with big-window, powered by a Ford 427-4V 4-speed, only used factory
parts for the "conversion" exept some sort of heavy-duty 9-inch
rear-end. According to the article, that truck ran consistently in
the 12-13 seconds, at speeds of 107-108MPH. Best time was 12.72 sec.
at 108MPH. Seems that that truck "package" was available as a special
order.
That article reminded me about the 427-powered ealy Econolines from
the African (?) rally from the mid-'60's. Am still looking for the
magazine in which I saw such article.

Gerry
Vive le FORD!
1978 F-150 4x4 SuperCab
1979 F-150 4x4 regular cab

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:38:30 -0800
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: C6 for sale, FE block


I have a C6 for sale from a '76 4x4 if any one wants to drive to Maine
to get it. It's good AFAIK. I also will be parting out a '77 F100 4x4
short box. I'll be using the engine, trans, transfer, cab and front
sheet metal for a 1-ton project. the rest will go ... front, rear, bed,
frame, ect.

Greg


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Sludged intake
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:16:43 -0600

Ken S. writes:  >>Drill out the rivets on the bottom, take the metal
plate off, clean all of that up, tap and replace the rivets with bolts.
I believe this is documented well in Steve Christ's book on
Rebuilding Ford Big Block Engines....<<,

Those rivits need not be drilled out..  With a little patience and a
few well placed taps with the cold chisel properly placed on the
head of the rivit and angled so that it causes the head and rivit to
turn in the counterclockwise direction, it will back out and can
be re-used..  Tap it enough to get it started, then finish screwing
it out with wirepliers..



Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 22:18:57 EST
Subject: Re: Paint code

In a message dated 2/14/2001 12:05:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
albert brightok.net writes:


> Steve:  Book shows a code of V on the plate   with a MJ-30 code of
> 1024
> this out of a64 Shop Manual.
>
>

Yea I got the same one . The paint lady says that that is a FORD number but
it still wasn't in her computer .



------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Blue Bird Bus
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:51:14 -0500


we have one of those buses that runs around here too. it is painted up with
Dale Nerdhardt(sorry I meant to say Earnhardt)  I don't want to get kicked
off the list for bashing anyone.
-----Original Message-----
From: GaryBBB <gpeters3 lni.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 9:34 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Blue Bird Bus


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>It's their MIS, NASCAR trip bus.  Has a 8' x 24' deck on top with drunk (I
>mean guard :-)) rails and everything :-)  Course they have to come down to
>get it in the barn :-)  Complete with microwave, TV and Generator (mine)
and
>wired in sound (wires are all visable of course (they're just kids after
all
>:-))
>
>--
>Happily Retired (but broke)
>Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>--
>
>> <I can even get my son's Blue Bird school bus in there to work on it and
>> close the doors.>
>>
>> Your son has a blue bird school bus? Is it a project of some sort? Just
>> wonderin: )
>>
>> Jason Warner
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:52:42 EST
Subject: crewcab & supercab for sale in georgia


cheap trucks, crew cab is 1000.00, the supercab is 550.0 if i remeber
correctly.

email me if anyone wants me to get the phone numbers.

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: brake drums
Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:53:05 -0500


check out the J C   Whitney   Ford Truck  Catalog.  I think they  have them
in there.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff McCain <Jmccain servicetrends.com>
To: '61-79-list fordtrucks.com' <61-79-list fordtrucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 9:41 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] brake drums


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Hello,  Does anyone have a front brake drum for a '63 F-100 they would like
>to sell or know who has one? My drum has fallen into the boat anchor
>catagory and needs to be replaced. While I am planning to upgrade to disc
>brakes this summer I would like to try to avoid spending the $65.00 the
>local parts store wants for a new one.
>
>Thanks, Jeff
>jmccain servicetrends.com
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Ken Schneider" <fordemail sunsetcoast.com>
Subject: Re: Sludged intake
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 00:07:15 -0500


Thanks for the correction Azie, it's been awhile...  I guess I'll have to
pull one of my spare intakes, or I mean boat anchors out of the corner, and
take it apart for kicks and try the tap & rotate method.

Theoretically, no one should have stuck rivets (proper term here?) since
they are deep in sludge... ;) I suppose there may be some extreme cases when
they might not rotate without outside help....

Ken

68 F100 Ranger 360/C6/3.25NL (stock 2bbl w/cast intake)
88 Crown Victoria 5.0/Mustang AOD



>Those rivits need not be drilled out..
<snip>
>Azie Magnusson
>Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 06:13:44 EST
Subject: Re: Cold weather, blown starter, and I'm happy?!?!

In a message dated 2/13/01 7:25:22 PM Central Standard Time,
wadsond air.on.ca writes:


> Looking forward to Saturday and doing some enjoyable truck maintenance in
> comfort. I've only had the house for 5 days and I have boxes of parts
> scattered all across the garage but my truck buddy dropped off his old
> couch and TV for the garage. Heck, I have my barbecue sitting in there too.
> I can relax on the couch, watch TV, grill a steak AND fix the truck in the
> same place. Does it get any better!
>
>
>

Can't think of anything

Glenn  NY

78  F250 (talk about projects and headaches)



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: F-250 update & ???.......
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 03:52:12 -0800

Well, since I'm retired and have nothing better to do I went out and looked
at it.  The fact that I couldn't sleep last night had nothing to do with
thinking about this truck, I am trying to get over the flu :-)
Anyway,,,,,,,

VIN: F26SLBG6686
Axle code is 37J
Trans is C and I already know it's a C-6
Type is F265 or 26S
GVW is 8100
MFG date is 12/77

I can't locate my little red book so can anyone tell me if this has a dana
60 front end on it from these numbers?  The body isn't too bad for a
"Typical" 78 farm truck.  Dinged up and floor rust but outside metal is
prettey decent, again, for a 78.  Has married 203 transfer case and shot
351M engine.  Doesn't especially ring my bell but may be worth the
investment if the front axle is a 60.  Looks to me like a 44 but I didn't
get under it to check the numbers.  I know my chevy 8600 gvw has a HD 44 for
sure so don't expect any more on the ford at that gvw.

The owner is a farmer and has used it to haul fuel and wagons to the fields
for many years.  Has a rebuilt C-6, recently done by a reputable house here
in Tecumseh which is worth something I guess but the stock 203 shift
mechanism has been replaced by a two handle home made system.  He says it
works perfectly now that he fixed the handles that way.  None of that really
bothers me but if it's just a wimpy 44 I don't think I'm interested.  He
admits that he wants another Dodge diesel like the one he already has but
they are too pricey for him.  Seems like a nice fellow, typical farm guy,
friendly, laid back etc..  Makes you hate to offer him less than what he
wants:-(

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--



-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: application/ms-tnef
-- File: winmail.dat



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Blue Bird Bus
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 03:57:30 -0800


Big Number 3! :-))  That's my son's favorite too :-)  I don't have any
favorites but I go for the Ford guys when I root :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> we have one of those buses that runs around here too. it is
> painted up with
> Dale Nerdhardt(sorry I meant to say Earnhardt)  I don't want to get kicked
> off the list for bashing anyone.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: another 2x4 to 4x4 swap idea...
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 04:31:03 -0800


I raised it about 3-4" to clear the tires (33's) and cut the bottom center
out of the cross member to exactly fit the punkin at full compression with
zero clearance and frame sitting on the axle then reinforced it with little
slabs of steel in strategic places to try to maintain the original strength.
I used the stock coil spring mounts and made adapters for the axle seat
since they didn't come with the axle.  The Steering box was already properly
located but the dropped pitman arm had the large hole in it and since I used
the van linkage I had to shim it to make a tight fit to the tapered pins
etc. where it went into the 4x4 stuff.  Biggest problem was designing the
radius arm brackets and getting them located so the axles would track
properly and then, of  course, making mounts for the transfer case and 460
engine and other related parts.  The chassis remained essentially intact.

I did a lot of things on that truck I would never do again because they were
simply unsafe.  At the time I didn't really have a good feel for the kind of
stress that those parts undergo :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> One quick question, did you modify the crossmember on that Van,
> or did you
> just lift high enough to have clearance?  If you did just lift
> it, how high
> did ya go?
>
> Darrell & Tweety


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: what TAD to use, was: Re: New Ford 9"
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 05:35:19 -0900



-----Original Message-----
From: wish <wish ford-trucks.net>
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: New Ford 9"


>
>>I am considering a Detroit.  Never heard of a Torsen, what makes it more
>>desirable?
>>
>
>The Torsen might be more desirable than a Detroit because it is much
smoother
>engaging and dis-engaging ... its also designed around street use, for
those
>of us tearing up the corners, so it allows for somewhat smoother turning
and
>quieter operation.  If you're restricting your machine to trails only, then
>likely it won't make much difference which one you prefer.  I also haven't
heard
>any of the "new" Detroit's that are supposed to be quieter.
>
>My line of thinking is Detroit for the truck, Torsen for my car, but then
those
>are considerably different applications from your own ...
>Just my $.02
>wish

I run  a Detroit Soft locker in my bronco, chosen over the older Detroit
model because......they no longer make it for the 9" it's soft locker or
nothing. But the good news is it works great. Dry pavement and tight slow
turns will get your attention with a crack. The first time it happens you
will stop and check you axle shafts to see which one broke LOL.  The soft
locker works just as well as any other Detroit I've owned or driven, just
less engagement / disengagement noise.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal



------------------------------

From: "Compaq" <robo pathwaynet.com>
Subject: Re: F-250 update & ???.......
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 10:12:59 -0600


chances are its just a 44 if it has the large hubs its possalbly a hd ive
run a 75 with a 44 with 35inch ground hogs for 10 years and ive run it hard
if you upgrade the axles and put in locker you wont have any problems i
prefer a 4 speed with granny as to the auto but cant have everything  as a
what for the 2001 350s went back to the 60 rear and 44 front for 40000
those guys get cheated

wildebeast from hardy mich
75 250 truck from hell

----------
> From: GaryBBB <gpeters3 lni.net>
> To: 61-79-List Ford-Trucks. Com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Subject: [61-79-list] F-250 update & ???.......
> Date: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:52 AM
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Well, since I'm retired and have nothing better to do I went out and
looked
> at it.  The fact that I couldn't sleep last night had nothing to do with
> thinking about this truck, I am trying to get over the flu :-)
> Anyway,,,,,,,
>
> VIN: F26SLBG6686
> Axle code is 37J
> Trans is C and I already know it's a C-6
> Type is F265 or 26S
> GVW is 8100
> MFG date is 12/77
>
> I can't locate my little red book so can anyone tell me if this has a
dana
> 60 front end on it from these numbers?  The body isn't too bad for a
> "Typical" 78 farm truck.  Dinged up and floor rust but outside metal is
> prettey decent, again, for a 78.  Has married 203 transfer case and shot
> 351M engine.  Doesn't especially ring my bell but may be worth the
> investment if the front axle is a 60.  Looks to me like a 44 but I didn't
> get under it to check the numbers.  I know my chevy 8600 gvw has a HD 44
for
> sure so don't expect any more on the ford at that gvw.
>
> The owner is a farmer and has used it to haul fuel and wagons to the
fields
> for many years.  Has a rebuilt C-6, recently done by a reputable house
here
> in Tecumseh which is worth something I guess but the stock 203 shift
> mechanism has been replaced by a two handle home made system.  He says it
> works perfectly now that he fixed the handles that way.  None of that
really
> bothers me but if it's just a wimpy 44 I don't think I'm interested.  He
> admits that he wants another Dodge diesel like the one he already has but
> they are too pricey for him.  Seems like a nice fellow, typical farm guy,
> friendly, laid back etc..  Makes you hate to offer him less than what he
> wants:-(
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
>
>
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>
>
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------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: F-250 update & ???.......
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 06:58:40 -0800


I've never pushed my bronco with it's 44 but have looked closely at the
axles and worked on them to alter the snap ring grooves for better holding
etc. and I tell you the thin metal ring that holds those cups in is really
scary for any kind of heavy use I would say.  I know they do hold up but I
also know that when they fail it is almost always at the Ujoint and it's
almost always the yoke that gives up or "C" clip comes off.  I know the 44
will handle any load I put on it, I just wanted that extra Oooomph just in
case:-)  I know OX has broken quite a few axles on his dana 60's so there
really isn't any such thing as too much strength IMNSHO :-)  The real issue,
I think is the tire size, not the use so much.  If you run 33's on it you
might never break an axle no matter how crazy you get.  It's really amazing
to me how strong axles really are considering their size.  My daughter's 97
has the skinnyest axles I've ever seen, not much larger than a taurus front
axle but apparently they hold up.

When you say you've run it hard, What exactly do you mean?  Off road?
Rocks?  Mud?  I guess what I'm thinking right now is that I'm only going to
do this one more time so I want all the bananas in one basket for the bucks
I spend.  It is a project truck but it will also replace my 8600 gvw chevy
(it also has the dana 44) and my F-150 and posibly the bronco as well so
needs to be at least that good .  In any case it will be a vast improvement
over my F-150 2wd for hauling loads and will be 4x4 so I'm seriously
considering making him an offer.  I just don't want to get into swapping
trucks every 5 minutes to up grade when I haven't even started restoring any
of them yet :-)  With all my other chores it's hard to get enthused about it
now so I'm in the "Pare it down" mood, at least for the moment.  Hopefully
I'll get energized when it warms up a little :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> chances are its just a 44 if it has the large hubs its possalbly a hd ive
> run a 75 with a 44 with 35inch ground hogs for 10 years and ive
> run it hard
> if you upgrade the axles and put in locker you wont have any problems i
> prefer a 4 speed with granny as to the auto but cant have everything  as a
> what for the 2001 350s went back to the 60 rear and 44 front for 40000
> those guys get cheated
>
> wildebeast from hardy mich
> 75 250 truck from hell


------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Timing my motor - need advice
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:56:33 -0800 (PST)


I tried timing my motor by vacuum and ended up with max vacuum around 16
deg BTDC.  Backed it off to 14 and drove it.  I didn't hear any pinging,
but decided to back off to 12 just because 14 seemed too much.  At 12 it
idles smoothly and man I tell you this motor has power I never new it
had.  BTW, the vacuum diaphram is on ported vacuum and is contributing 0
advance at idle.

On the way to work there is a hill with a cinderblock wall on the side of
the road.  I can hear sounds from the truck bouncing off the wall that I
normally wouldn't hear.  I thought I could hear a faint sound that might
be pinging so each day I backed the advance down 2 degrees at a time until
I was back to 6 and I still hear the sound so I don't think it is
pinging.  Maybe this is the tinny sound that people have said Flowmasters
have.

If I go up this same hill in my car after I put regular gas in it the
pinging is very obvious.

Also, at 6 it is idling very rough and the motor feels constipated - very
low power.  So today it's back up to 12 and idling smoothly.

I am wondering if my harmonic balancer may have slipped.  I am pretty sure
it's the type with rubber between the two pieces.  How can I check
this?  Does the TDC mark usually line up with one of the bolts on the
pulley?  Does it line up with the keyway on the crankshaft?

....

---

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