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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 17:10:51 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #45
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 11 Feb 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 045

In This Issue:
Re: POR 15
Re: blown starter
Re: Ford blue for '66?
Re: Timing chains and performance
Re: POR 15
Re: 33X12.50-15 Tire Source?
Re: Difference in 460's
Re: garages
Re: Tie Rod Puller?
Re: Dust shields yea or nay?
POR 15
POR-15 comments
Re: Difference in 460's
Re: Vin # plate question
Re: Difference in 460's
Re: 33X12.50-15 Tire Source?
Re: '79 F-series door hinge
Re: blown starter
Re: Vin # plate question
Re: Timing chains and performance
Re: Dust shields yea or nay?
Axle ID, trying to help a coworker
Re: fuel line leak
460 timing chain swap
Re: Axle ID, trying to help a coworker
Replacing 390 intake
Re: Axle ID, trying to help a coworker
Re: Replacing 390 intake
Re: 64 F-100 Vin  plate question
Re: POR-15 questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:51:50 EST
Subject: Re: POR 15


In a message dated 2/11/01 1:42:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
huston kudzumedia.com writes:

<< but was trying to find out if POR 15 is as
good as the manufacturer says it is. >>

I used the satin black on my F-250 frame.  I applied it with cheap paint
brushes, it worked very well.  Later I modified the truck with a late model
power steering box.  I did some cutting and welding on the frame, it only
destroyed the paint within a quarter of an inch of the molten metal.  I
pounded on it with a hammer, no chipping.  As for UV rays, if you put it on
your frame it does not see enough UV to cause damage.  I would never consider
using it in my paint gun, if for any reason it does not get cleaned out 100%
it never will after a few hours.  I can see no point in taking the chance.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: blown starter
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 23:33:27 -0500


I have to respond to this.  While searching for houses here in VA beach, I
found a house with a 4 yr old 40 x 40 two story garage, fully equiped with
heater, compressor, parts cleaner, etc.  There was also an outside storage
shed.  Whoo hoo.  Wife found a house on the water with a bigger back yard
and an attached 2 car Garage.  She thought it was a compromise.  Any married
person on the list wanna guess which house we bought?   Ah well, Going to HI
tomorrow for two weeks, maybe I can forget...

Rich

> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 07:23:55 -0500
> From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
> Subject: Cold weather, blown starter, and I'm happy?!?!
Nope, it croaked while parked inside the double,
> heated garage at my new house, the day after I took possession! Having
> changed starters in the driveway (multiple times, in the snow) and in the
> parking lot at work, it's rather strange to be looking forward to changing
> it. Just so I have even my fun, I bought a garden hose and some
degreaser -
> there's a drain in the garage floor almost right under the engine! Seeing
> as I'll be warm while doing the job, I may as well stay relatively clean
> too! :-)



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:53:32 -0600
From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: Re: Ford blue for '66?


>Guys,
>  Does anyone know the correct paint colour for '66 engines? I recall we
>discussed this some time ago but I can't find or remember the answer. I
>know Stu Varner had a firm opinion. Stu? Anyone?
>
>
I don't have anything to back this up but my own personal observation but I
believe the 352 V8 was gold and the Sixes were blue.  352 changed to blue
in '67.
  _
_| ~~.  John Strauss
\, *_}  jstrauss inetport.com
  \(    Texas Fight!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 00:07:05 -0800
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: Timing chains and performance




> It was done for emission purposes so you can only guess that it was not a
> good thing for performance.  I don't really know what difference it makes
> but, again, have been told it's significant.

A friend that used a 460 in a 1 ton 78 truck to pull a trailer w/2 mini
rod pull tractors experienced overheating when he switched timing gears
... put a newer style in and no more heating problems.

dPrasse

>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> > Now that the subject of timing chains has been brought up, just how much
> > performance difference can you feel by swapping in an early
> > timing chain and
> > gears to a stock '78 460?
> >
> > Jason Kendrick
> >
> > =============================================================
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> >
>
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------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 06:19:16 EST
Subject: Re: POR 15


POR-15 is great stuff!!  I had a 1978 Bronco with the tailgate starting to
rust.  I put some extra POR-15 on it after I was done with the frame on my
1979 F-350 4x4 (Total frame of restoration).  After 1 winter in New Jersey,
the only thing not rusted was where I painted the stuff on.  The rust even
went under the factory paint, but not the POR-15.  I did not even top coat it
like the directions suggested.  The only thing that happened to the POR-15
was that it got a "Milky" look to it.......but did not stop working.  My
personal opinion.....Its the best stuff out there.   Wayne Grabley

------------------------------

From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: 33X12.50-15 Tire Source?
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 06:25:01 -0500


> Anybody know a place to get reasonably priced 33" tires?
> Reasonably priced
> is a euphemism for *cheap*.  I need four good tires to dress

I've got a set for sale if you are anywhere near Massachusetts.
Eric Tobolski

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 07:28:22 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Difference in 460's


No, the newer 460 manifold can not be ported to work with the older heads.  BTDT.
Having to switch heads right now on my Crew cab.  The newer heads (BTW mine are
marked F2xx) ports are smaller, but they are also moved up by about a 1/2".  The
bottom of the intake port on the intake literally is below the lower seal lip of the
older heads (BTW using 1979 heads).
I should be done with this head swap by tommorrow.  Oh well, live an learn.

Steve S.
54 F-100
76 F-350 Crew cab
77 F-250 Supercab
79 Bronco
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/



> When did ford start using those heads, when the 460 went EFI? I assume
> 78 460 heads are substantially better than 95 heads?? Can the EFI
> manifold be ported to match a set of late 70's heads?
>
>                                    OX


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 04:48:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: garages


Rich,

You have my condolences...  My wife and I just started looking for houses
on Saturday.  I'm hoping I can find something even half as nice as the one
you had to pass up.  :-(  I'm not even condering anything that has less
than a two car garage (or at least room to expand the existing garage.)
Now the only question is how long it will take to find what we're looking
for...  :-)

Later,
Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast"
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty"

--- rich <richth exis.net> wrote:
> I have to respond to this.  While searching for houses here in VA beach,
> I
> found a house with a 4 yr old 40 x 40 two story garage, fully equiped
> with
> heater, compressor, parts cleaner, etc.  There was also an outside
> storage
> shed.  Whoo hoo.  Wife found a house on the water with a bigger back
> yard
> and an attached 2 car Garage.  She thought it was a compromise.  Any
> married
> person on the list wanna guess which house we bought?   Ah well, Going
> to HI
> tomorrow for two weeks, maybe I can forget...


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 05:07:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tie Rod Puller?


Just thought I'd provide an update on this thread.  I went to my local Pep
Boys on Sat. and returned home with a $25 Lisle tie rod puller.  Its the
one piece jaw and screw through the center type.  In the next 20 minutes I
managed to easily remove both ends of my dropped drag link with this
wonderful tool...  Boy were they stuck in there tightly.  I don't know how
I would have gotten them off with just pickle forks...  Highly recommended
for anyone looking to do this type of thing in the future.  Now all I have
to do is identify the tie rod ends so I can replace them...  (Two tasks
left before Fred can be inspected.  WooHoo!)

Later,
Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast"
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty"



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:11:02 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: Dust shields yea or nay?


Hey Guy-

I have to admit- all of my old trucks the first thing I do when doing wheel
bearings is remove  the spindles and take the dust shields off.  Here in NE
Ohio when the snow comes down, everytime I looked under my truck they were
packed up with snow, rocks, and debris that would be held up against the
rotor.  The same things happens when you are offroading if you do that sort
of thing.  I took mine off of my '78 about 4 years ago when I put new
rotors and hubs onto my truck and have not changed brakes, or had any
adverse wear since then.   I will give Gary the fact that it sheds water
more readily when puddle jumping, but I can't personally see any advantage
to them at all compared to the disadvantages of the junk getting stuck up
in them.  Just my opinion-

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ceoweb.mts.kent.edu/~mustang/trucks.html

At 23:58 2/6/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Howdy Folks,
>      I've been lurking for several months and enjoying myself to no end.
>Here's my question. In the Pacific Northwest the weather tends to rust out
>the dust shields on the front disc brakes and a couple of us were wondering.
>Are they really necessary? Do they hinder cooling? Will the rotors get
>trashed without them?
>Patsplace
>
>
>
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>Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 07:48:21 -0600
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: POR 15


>I know this has been covered before, but was trying to find out if POR 15
is as
>good as the manufacturer says it is.

Virgil,

I'll give you a personal testamonial. I love the stuff. Mind you, there are
several brands of similar stuff on the market and I haven't tried the
others, but I have been very pleased with the results I got with POR 15. I
used it as a primer under their engine paint as they suggested (with great
success). I also did the whole underside of a '68 F250 including frame, cab
bottom, inner fenders, etc. It worked very well and was easy to apply. The
only place I got rust recurring was on the places on the inner fenders
right below the hood hinges. There are two layers of metal there and the
rust came back from behind.

The silver (original stuff) doesn't cover very well. It is thicker and
better for that hole filling trick they advertise using fiberglass cloth
and POR 15. I love the semigloss black. One tip is that the gloss level
varies widely with humidity. If you paint it while it is raining, it will
be glossy. If you use it on a dry day, it will be dull. They say that it is
UV sensitive, but from what I have been able to find out, it is only
appearance that is affected, not the protection. So, under a truck there is
very little UV and who cares about the appearance anyway? It stays black.

Doss Halsey
POR 15 poster child


------------------------------

From: "Harvey, Blaine" <HarveyB sgc.gc.ca>
Subject: POR-15 comments
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:37:23 -0500


I used it on the frame of my 79 and it really seems to have worked
well. I wouldn't sweat the UV thing in that on the frame its not like it
gets baked by the sun. One tip however is to cover yourself up and wear
rubber gloves. Once on your skin the only way to get it off is time--new
skin growing in. And use the small tins, because it seems to go a long way
and it is expensive.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 07:40:06 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel line leak
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Does the 2v have the internal, screw in filter?

No screw in filter.

>If so you can get one that
> will work for the 3/8" tubing.  The Qjet will require a new manfold as well
> or a cheap fix using an adapter plate.  I personally don't like the
> adapters.  I feel they restrict the flow too much to get full benefit from
> the larger carb.  It could actually save you some gas though due to the
> smaller primaries which do have decent flow with an adapter :-)

I, too, would prefer a 4 barrel manifold. I already have an adapter that
should work. I do not have a carb yet. All that takes is money, right?

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 07:41:33 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel line leak
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> If its anything like the 400 in a 78 I disassembled, I noticed that the PO
> had slightly bent the nipple on the filter itself about 30 to 40 degrees to
> help lessen the bend in the rubber hose.  Thats such a tight bend Im almost
> sure ford had a special formed hose for that area.  I know bending the filter
> seems a lil hokey, so its your call.  Seemed like an easy solution to the
> problem though.

Hmm...I think I like the loop better than bending the filter nipple. Thanks
for the option.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 06:12:48 -0800 (PST)
From: James Oxley <joxenburger yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Difference in 460's



>
> No, the newer 460 manifold can not be ported to work
with the older heads.  BTDT.
> Having to switch heads right now on my Crew cab.
The newer heads (BTW mine are
> marked F2xx) ports are smaller,

Is that "92"

but they are also moved up by about a 1/2".  The
> bottom of the intake port on the intake literally is
below the lower seal lip of the
> older heads (BTW using 1979 heads).
> I should be done with this head swap by tommorrow.
Oh well, live an learn.
>

I guess thats explains why the newer 460's are such
dogs :-( Thanks

                           OX



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------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Vin # plate question
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:23:50 -0500


I would try to drill the rivets out carefully  & take the plate  off & try
to restore it.  It might take a little  doing(carefully)  Try some paint
stripper  --lite coats --  & when you get down close to the original
plate,try some  finger nail polish remover to take it down the rest of the
way.  I've done that on other  stuff that needed restored.
-----Original Message-----
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com <WEDIVE247 aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, February 10, 2001 5:50 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Vin # plate question


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>     Hey folks ,
>                      Anybody know where I might be able to get a new stock
>vin # plate made for my 64 f-100 ? I can see the raised numbers , but the
>jams have been painted so many times that I don't think I can clean it up
>.And if I could , I don't think I can get it back to the way it's supposed
to
>look , with the black back ground and white letters . Any ideas ???
>
>
>
>Thanks
>Steve             64     F-100        351w
>
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Difference in 460's
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:27:29 -0500


I know that the '95 won't have a  place for the mechanical fuel pump.  the
cam probably won't be ground  at that section for the arm for the mechanical
fuel pump.
-----Original Message-----
From: Critterwoods aol.com <Critterwoods aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, February 10, 2001 7:27 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Difference in 460's


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>Friends,
>    Could someone tell me the difference between a 76 460 and a 95 460? I
can
>buy either one for my 78 4x4. Which one?
>                                                            Critter
>
>
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>
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 33X12.50-15 Tire Source?
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:29:49 -0500


I would try Pep Boys,National Tire & Battery Warehouse or maybe a Sam's Club
outlet store. These are the cheapest that I can think of.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Frenz <frenz.6 osu.edu>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, February 10, 2001 9:09 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 33X12.50-15 Tire Source?


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Anybody know a place to get reasonably priced 33" tires? Reasonably priced
>is a euphemism for *cheap*.  I need four good tires to dress up a truck I'm
>going to immediately sell. It has 31" with fairly good tread now, but
>they're kinda dry rotted and have a tendency to deflate. I'd feel a lot
>more comfortable sending it down the road with better tires, plus I believe
>the cost can be offset by an increase in the sale price with good rubber.
>
>I certainly appreciate any input.
>
>
>
>=============================================================
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:30:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Tie Rod Puller?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Just thought I'd provide an update on this thread.  I went to my local Pep
> Boys on Sat. and returned home with a $25 Lisle tie rod puller.  Its the
> one piece jaw and screw through the center type.  In the next 20 minutes I
> managed to easily remove both ends of my dropped drag link with this
> wonderful tool...  Boy were they stuck in there tightly.  I don't know how
> I would have gotten them off with just pickle forks...  Highly recommended
> for anyone looking to do this type of thing in the future.  Now all I have
> to do is identify the tie rod ends so I can replace them...  (Two tasks
> left before Fred can be inspected.  WooHoo!)

Congratulations, Eric. I spent $23 for a power steering pulley puller last
fall from NAPA. One of the best investments I ever made. Few things make a
job more enjoyable than having the right tools.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: '79 F-series door hinge
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:31:34 -0500


you can buy hinge pin repair kits for that problem.they are relatively
inexpensive.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Frenz <frenz.6 osu.edu>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, February 10, 2001 9:09 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] '79 F-series door hinge


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Anybody have two good door hinges that would work on a my '79 pickup? The
>bushings on my driver's side door are shot to hell and the door wants to
>sag when opened. Let me know if you happen to have some to spare.
>
>
>=============================================================
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>
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------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: blown starter
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:45:41 -0500


BEEN THERE --  DONE THAT  !!!   LOL
-----Original Message-----
From: rich <richth exis.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 11:34 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: blown starter


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>I have to respond to this.  While searching for houses here in VA beach, I
>found a house with a 4 yr old 40 x 40 two story garage, fully equiped with
>heater, compressor, parts cleaner, etc.  There was also an outside storage
>shed.  Whoo hoo.  Wife found a house on the water with a bigger back yard
>and an attached 2 car Garage.  She thought it was a compromise.  Any
married
>person on the list wanna guess which house we bought?   Ah well, Going to
HI
>tomorrow for two weeks, maybe I can forget...
>
>Rich
>
>> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 07:23:55 -0500
>> From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
>> Subject: Cold weather, blown starter, and I'm happy?!?!
>Nope, it croaked while parked inside the double,
>> heated garage at my new house, the day after I took possession! Having
>> changed starters in the driveway (multiple times, in the snow) and in the
>> parking lot at work, it's rather strange to be looking forward to
changing
>> it. Just so I have even my fun, I bought a garden hose and some
>degreaser -
>> there's a drain in the garage floor almost right under the engine! Seeing
>> as I'll be warm while doing the job, I may as well stay relatively clean
>> too! :-)
>
>
>=============================================================
>To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:21:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Vin # plate question


>I would try to drill the rivets out carefully  & take the plate  off & try
>to restore it.  It might take a little  doing(carefully)  Try some paint
>stripper  --lite coats --


Another option if this doesn't work is to pick up a Mustang Monthly magazine,
there's usually one or two retaillers in there who can reproduce those plates.
Just a hunch that the cars and trucks used similar plates so they should be
able to do either for you ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Timing chains and performance
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 07:58:32 -0800


I also replaced the cam with an after market one so it was probably designed
for zero timing :-)  If you did this switch in 73 or 74 it probably would
have worked better because I would bet they used the same cam grind over
those years and changed the keyway as a quick fix till they designed a new
cam.  By 78 they undoubtedly had new cam designs with the retarded gear
taken into account.  This is just a guess based on what I've seen them do in
the plant I worked in :-)  Often the Feds get ahead of the OEM's and they
have to make do....  It really is amazing how upgrades stack on top of
upgrades until the original design is so buried with junk that a total
re-designe is in order.  Software is like that, you start with an idea for
the present needs and keep upgrading to keep up with new requests and
notions untill you have so much code in there even you can't figure out what
you were thinking :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> A friend that used a 460 in a 1 ton 78 truck to pull a trailer w/2 mini
> rod pull tractors experienced overheating when he switched timing gears
> ... put a newer style in and no more heating problems.
>
> dPrasse


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Dust shields yea or nay?
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:03:42 -0800


Virtually all my driving is on paved roads so the covers are an asset I
believe but the conditions you are speaking of may alter this, not sure.
Seems pretty reasonable to me so I'll take your word for it :-)  I deal
almost exclusively with snow and this has never posed a problem I've been
aware of.  If the covers are pristeen and you don't get reckless I can't
really see stuff getting behind them?  If, OTOH, they are in the typical
condition, rusted through in several places and flopping then I totally
agree with you, none is better than that for sure :-)  Mine are in new
condition and carefully fitted to even spaceing all around.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Hey Guy-
>
> of thing.  I took mine off of my '78 about 4 years ago when I put new
> rotors and hubs onto my truck and have not changed brakes, or had any
> adverse wear since then.   I will give Gary the fact that it sheds water
> more readily when puddle jumping, but I can't personally see any
> advantage
> to them at all compared to the disadvantages of the junk getting stuck up
> in them.  Just my opinion-
>
> Tony Marino


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Axle ID, trying to help a coworker
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:57:18 -0800


nyone know anything about Ford 9" diffs? Here are the numbers from the axle
tag. Any ideas what the gear ratio is?
The diff is out of a late 70's Lincoln.

WGC-C5   4KD   2   75   9   495A.



------------------------------

From: "Dave Resch" <Dave.Resch sybase.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:05:34 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel line leak


>From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
>
>I have the original 2 barrel carb on the 351m.
>How do I change the nipple fitting to a
>female threaded fitting other than a short
>piece of hose?

Yo John:

The fuel inlet nipple fitting on the front of the 2150 carb is screwed in.  You
can remove that fitting and use a fuel filter w/ the threaded end in its place.

Good Luck.

Dave R (M-block devotee)



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:30:25 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel line leak
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> The fuel inlet nipple fitting on the front of the 2150 carb is screwed in.
You
> can remove that fitting and use a fuel filter w/ the threaded end in its
place.

Rats! No quadrajet in my immediate future, huh. Thanks for the info, Dave.
Now the plan is to try the loop in the rubber line, then go to an all steel
line if that doesn't work. That way I'll be ready for the qjet. :-)

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: A61fordtruck aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:01:37 EST
Subject: 460 timing chain swap


I remember reading in the late 70's that it was worth 35 hp, and that the 72-up chain was retarded 8 degrees

Greg S
65 custom cab 460
61 223

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 20:50:18 GMT
Subject: Re: Axle ID, trying to help a coworker


>nyone know anything about Ford 9" diffs? Here are the numbers from the axle

>tag. Any ideas what the gear ratio is?
>The diff is out of a late 70's Lincoln.
>
>WGC-C5   4KD   2   75   9   495A.
>

Is this a trick question ?  I'll bet it reads something like this when you look
at the tag :

WGC - C5  4KD
2  75   9  495A


The 2 75 indicates a 2.75:1 gear ratio ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "jason merritt" <jasonfmerritt mmcable.com>
Subject: Replacing 390 intake
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:47:40 -0600

I have been on this list for a while now but this only my second post. This list is great, anyway my question. I am replacing my 2 barrel intake with a cast Iron 4 barrel thunderbird intake on my 390 what are all of the things I am going to have to remove to replace it, and what should I plan on replacing while I have it apart.

Thank you in advance for your help,
Jason

1970 F-100 390 2 barrel soon to be 4



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:17:15 -0800
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: Axle ID, trying to help a coworker




wish wrote:

> WGC - C5  4KD
> 2  75   9  495A
>
> The 2 75 indicates a 2.75:1 gear ratio ...

same as my 77 Town Car ...
that seems like the standard ratio under most Lincolns that I've looked
at in the yard .

dPrasse

>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
>

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:55:03 GMT
Subject: Re: Replacing 390 intake


> This list is great, anyway my question. I am replacing my 2 barrel intake with
a cast Iron 4 barrel thunderbird intake on my 390 what are all of the things
I am going to have to remove to replace it, and what should I plan on replacing
while I have it apart.
>

I put a 65 intake on mine, so I know what you're going through.

You'll need to pull the valve covers and the rocker arms so that the pushrods
can come out (don't forget to keep them in order for old time's sake) ... then
the distributor (don't forget to mark it so you can put it back in exactly the
same way) ... the 64 intake's may have an oil filler cap/stem on the front or
rear of them, you'll need to plug this or just keep a cap on and live with 2
oil fill points (the valve cover and the intake manifold) ..

I think that's the basics, except of course for the new carb you'll need, the
dizzy and everything else will match up again ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:05:40 -0500
Subject: Re: 64 F-100 Vin  plate question


Steve- I believe those plates are available troug AutoKrafters. Give em a
try.
      Later, Phil (64 F-100 )
____________________________________________________________
>  Hey folks , Anybody know where I might be able to get a
> new stock vin # plate made for my 64 f-100 ?
________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:11:39 -0500
Subject: Re: POR-15 questions


Virgil- I've used a bunch of it on several projects (blk & silver), and I
can say it does everything they say it will. Several other of their
products work as well to. Call and get a free catalog to see the other
stuff they make. Good luck, Phil  64 F-100 ( POR-15 Poster child ) ....


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