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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Sat, 06 Jan 2001 01:23:22 -0500 (EST)
Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 01:23:22 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #4 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Thu, 04 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 004 In This Issue: Re: Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Re: 79 F350 Re: 79 F350 Re: head light relays Need to Locate 312 Y Block whistling vent windows Re: 79 F350 Re: 79 F350 Re: Floor replacemene (was give up) Re: Those little plastic thingies. Re: fixing bed rust Re: whistling vent windows Re: whistling vent windows Re: rust my worst fear Re: 79 F350 Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Re: whistling vent windows Re: rust my worst fear factory installed Re: Those little plastic thingies. cart wheels from MIG discussion Re: factory installed worn T-18 shifter pin Re: worn T-18 shifter pin Np208 Transfer case? Re: Np208 Transfer case? Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-b Re: worn T-18 shifter pin Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Truck won't turn off! Re: rust my worst fear Re: Need to Locate 312 Y Block Re: whistling vent windows Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 tranny swap gas tank options Dyno 2000 Results ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:29:26 EST Subject: Re: Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar I have used elec. tape with moderate sucess. ------------------------------ From: "Charles T." <charlest hal-pc.org>
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:42:52 -0600 What are the dates for this year's event? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:57 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 > > How is the weather that of year for camping. > > Virgil > > > > We plan on it but will have to improve on our financial skills if we are > > to > > make it :-) Retirement is cool but fixed incomes stink :-( Might have to > > make it a shorter trip this year but hope to be there for sure :-) > > ------------------------------ From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 79 F350 Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:50:11 -0600 jake wrote: it hasn't been driven in about three years. I have to ask why it's not been driven. What's wrong with it? Go ahead and look at it, but look at it very thoroughly. I would offer $1500 for it, it'll cost $500 to put in a real transmission and transfer case. :-) At least it's got a 460. Jason Kendrick ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: 79 F350 Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 00:07:56 -0500 I'm looking for the same truck, just so I can get that coveted front axle. $2000 sounds reasonable, especially if it passes inspection. -bob- 79 Bronco 460 44's T18 79 Bronco 400 40's C6 Hello, I am thinking about looking a 1979 F350 4WD. They want around $2000 for the truck, What does everyone think. ------------------------------ From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: head light relays Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 20:13:42 -0900 Some were asking about the headlight relay system I built for my Bronco. I put together a quick page describing the setup. I'll add a little more to it in the next few days. If ya have any questions, just ask. I can tell ya, it works great on them older Fords, and really does make a difference in light output. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.gci.net/~bronco78/tech.htm Erik Marquez bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal ------------------------------ From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 00:45:33 EST Subject: Need to Locate 312 Y Block In a message dated 01/04/2001 10:03:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, SevnD2 writes: I need to locate a 312 Y block for someone who doesn't have access to the web. What they need is just a good block, but a whole engine isn't out of the question. Just e-mail me privately with information. Thank you. Rollie -- Attached file included as plaintext by Listar -- Return-path: <SevnD2 aol.com>
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Full-name: SevnD2 Message-ID: <94.e52e5c1.27869376 aol.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:03:18 EST Subject: Need to Locate 312 Y Block To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 130 I need to locate a 312 Y block for someone who doesn't have access to the web. What they need is just a good block, but a whole engine isn't out of the question. Just e-mail me privately with information. Thank you. Rollie ------------------------------ From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 00:50:49 EST Subject: whistling vent windows is there anything that can be done to stop the wind noise around the vent windows on 73-79 trucks? jeff ------------------------------ From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: 79 F350 Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:33:10 -0800 I'd buy it. The drivetrain alone is worth that much. Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke '77 F150 4WD 429 "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" ------------------------------ From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: 79 F350 Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:52:38 -0800 > it'll cost $500 to put in a real transmission and transfer case. :-) Assuming it has a 13-56, its just as strong as the 203, and has a better low range than both the 203 and the 205. And I wouldn't discount the strength of the ZF. I had one last for quite a while behind a healthy Powerstroke. Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke '77 F150 4WD 429 "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 08:00:40 -0600 From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Floor replacemene (was give up) Eric, The pictures look good. Make sure that after you have it all welded, coat everything with a good paint (I think you said you were using POR 15). After that dries, use a good seam sealer on both sides. You will be good to go after that. BTW I have the hump that you need. Let me know. Steve S. 54 F-100 76 F-350 Crew cab 77 F-250 Supercab 79 Bronco. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/ > > > I just thought I'd update you all on my floor pan replacement project. I > took some pics with the replacement pieces sitting in place. I should get > them welded in this Saturday when a friend is supposed to come over and > weld them for me. You can see the new pics on my homepage at > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/ The new pics are listed under Drivers > Floor Pan Fix #1-3 and Pass Floor Pan Fix #1-2. Just thought you all > might want to see me actually making progress on my bronco instead of just > writing about it. :-) So how does it look? > > In any case, today was a good day for my Ford truck projects. Maybe I'll > actually have a usable Bronco in a couple of weeks. Thanks again for the > help and advice. Now I've got to get to bed since I start a new > assignment for a new client at work tommorrow. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 08:00:46 -0600 From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Those little plastic thingies. I really hate to be the bearer of bad news, but usually when you break those off it means that you also have some bad door hinges. Mine on my Supercab are cracked, but not completely broke off. Every once in awhile the door will fly back open when I slam it shut. The hinges are shot. Grab the latch end of the door and try to lift up and down on the door. There should not be any movement. Good Luck. Steve S. 54 F-100 76 F-350 Crew cab 77 F-250 Supercab 79 Bronco. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/ > Okay, Got in my '79 F-250 today to go out on the town. I soon noticed > that the door didn't seem to be closed. I opened it and slammed it > again, but it was no better. The thing would rattle every time I hit a > bump, and there was wind whistling in where usually, it doesn't. > > Upon closer inspection, I appear to have lost (warning - extremely > technical jargon to follow) the plastic "sleeve" which fits on the round > post on the B-pillar, around which the latch mechanism on the door... > latches. Now, I just have the metal post, which apparently is too skinny > to hold the latch firmly - thus, the rattling. > > I'm sure I can find a new post with sleeve somewhere, but in the mean > time, can anyone recommend a good "shade tree" fix for this till I get > the part? It's really annoying, esp. if I'm going down a bumpy road. > Electrical tape? Polyethylene tubing? Any ideas? > ------------------------------ From: "Jerry Summerall" <k7yvz qsl.net>
Subject: Re: fixing bed rust Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 07:00:59 -0700 I have the same dilemma but luckily I have a rust free replacement bed. My rust problem that I am fixing is from the door back around the side of the cab (supercab) down on the very bottom. Yesterday I took my angle grinder and cut the cancer part out 1 inch below were the panel starts to curve inward. My plans are to insert a piece of sheet metal to replace what was cut out. I will be putting it under the original sheet metal along the top and running it outside along the very bottom of the cab. What is the best method of welding into place? Wirefeed or brazing. 79 F250 4x4 supercab ----- Original Message ----- From: Curtis Crawford <jdcrwfrd pld.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 6:35 PM Subject: [61-79-list] fixing bed rust > Hello, i am going to start repainting my pickup and I have some concerns over the rust above the back tires. what way is the easiest/cheapest/longest lasting? I have looked so far at: new bed, new outer bed sides, weld in patches. Which of these works the best? other ideas? > thanks > curt > > 78 f-150 Lariat > 460 cid yellow & white > just say no to bondo > ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 15:07:14 GMT Subject: Re: whistling vent windows > >is there anything that can be done to stop the wind noise around the vent >windows on 73-79 trucks? > Doublecheck that it is the vent window itself whistling and not the felts being completely shot in the window channel ... otherwise you can put something under the latch or look for better latches that will hold it tighter, if things are too bad you'll have to look at replacing the gaskets (or you could just do that first I suppose :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 06:07:40 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: whistling vent windows I have a cheap fix that I used on my 1971 F-100. I put 3 pennies under the latch to make it hold tighter and it quit wistling. Kenny ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 09:19:29 -0500 From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: Re: rust my worst fear > Don't know if this is true- but I've been told that WD40 has water in it, > and is therefore not a good choice as a rust inhibitor. Can anyone > confirm/refute this myth? It's name is short for "Water Displacing formula #40," (see http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.howstuffworks.com/question155.htm) so I don't think it has water in it. OTOH, it still isn't a good long term rust inhibitor, because it evaporates too quickly. --sean ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 79 F350 Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 09:27:35 -0800 Transfer case for my truck (off brand) is over $400 (up to $600) by itself due to HD status but for this Ford I would expect to pay $250 for each as Jason says and for the ZF you will pay more but you better get them as a set or you will have headaches in the install. The front axle is worth up to $500 in poor shape and up to $1500 (Boyce sells them for about $1000 for off brands but has no Ford fronts) in excellent or rebuilt shape. I'm going to be fixing up some of my trucks to get them out of here at a profit (hopefully) so I can get a 350 4x4 or an older one like my favorite 48 F-5 or 6 but not sure if they had 4x4's in those sizes back then. Trust me, as soon as I can afford it the off brand is gone in lieu of the Ford HD's. I just couldn't pass it up for the price :-) (hope to make a profit off of it and get the plow for free :-)) If I were working right now instead of retired I would grab a F-350 for $2000 in a heart beat if it had any sheet metal on it :-) I agree with offering less for it too. Just go look at it and point out the flaws and tell them you really can't justify that much for a truck in that shape right now but maybe later.....and let them respond with a price. If they are in a hurry to get it out of there they will follow you out to your car with lower suggestions :-) I once got a guy down from $2500 to $1700 in one itteration and could have done even better but the truck was too rusty and I had another one to look at or I would have grabbed it for $1500 I'm pretty sure. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > jake wrote: > it hasn't been driven in about three years. > > > I have to ask why it's not been driven. What's wrong with it? Go ahead and > look at it, but look at it very thoroughly. I would offer $1500 for it, > it'll cost $500 to put in a real transmission and transfer case. :-) At > least it's got a 460. > Jason Kendrick ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 10:14:34 -0800 Go to the Pigeon Forge Web site and all the events are listed there along with accomodations. Weather is great there in May....Beautiful in fact the two times I've been there. You won't regret the trip and the Smoky mountains are a delight to visit....miles and miles of rocks and trees and scenic views, hiking trails and water falls (which we hope to vist this year). I will go see If I can find the site again and publish it for youse guys :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > What are the dates for this year's event? > > > How is the weather that of year for camping. > > > > Virgil ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: whistling vent windows Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 10:22:39 -0800 You can buy the whole window and frame for $75 from Dennis Carpenter and the strips can be found in JC whittney etc.... You can also buy replacement handles for them which will hold the window closed a little better but often the frame is rusted so the handle has nothing to support it so if that's the case you need to get the whole thing. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > is there anything that can be done to stop the wind noise around the vent > windows on 73-79 trucks? > > > jeff > > ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: rust my worst fear Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 10:27:11 -0800 I heard it is a Kerosene base which is the best water soaker upper ever invented. We have to put aditives in our fuel tanks to keep it from gelling due to this. This is also the reason it is not a good rust preventiv. It "Draws" moisture and eventually is saturated so that the moisture can affect the steel. Normal oil will not combine with water so repels it, WD-40 tends to combine with it If I'm not mistaken. Cosmoline is the best long term protective coating I've ever seen. It is basically a wax based grease with a fast solvent in it so that it penetrates deep into the holes and crannies but then the solvent evaproates leaving only the grease...like good Chain lube (which might be another good choice, not sure?). -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Don't know if this is true- but I've been told that WD40 has water in it, > and is therefore not a good choice as a rust inhibitor. Can anyone > confirm/refute this myth? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 10:42:32 -0600 From: Bruce Montcombroux <montcom BrandonU.CA>
Subject: factory installed Does anyone know what the factory installed gears (ratio) would be for a 1976 F-100 4x4? ( 360/C6 NP205 ) Thanks Bruce, 1976 F-100 4x4 1965 Mercury M-100 (possible body swap coming up in the spring..) 1964 Mercury Meteor ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 10:51:32 -0600 Subject: Re: rust my worst fear From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> I am thinking about dissolving vaseline in wd 40 and using > a spray bottle and soaking things thoroughly. Go to a gun shop and see what they suggest for long term storage. Or find a military arms expert and ask the same question. The military used to coat items with cosmolene (spelling is a guess) for long term storage. I store my firearms wrapped in a cloth diaper soaked in gun oil. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 10:53:09 -0600 Subject: Re: rust my worst fear From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Don't know if this is true- but I've been told that WD40 has water in it, > and is therefore not a good choice as a rust inhibitor. Can anyone > confirm/refute this myth? Not true. Read the ingredients on the label. WD40 will not stay long term. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 10:55:15 -0600 Subject: Re: whistling vent windows From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> is there anything that can be done to stop the wind noise around the vent > windows on 73-79 trucks? When my pivot pin on the bottom broke, I used silicone sealer all of the way around. No wind noise, but I can't open the vent. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 12:20:52 EST Subject: Re: Those little plastic thingies. In a message dated 1/5/2001 5:00:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM writes:
<< Every once in awhile the door will fly back open when I slam it shut. The hinges are shot. >> Look in the help aisle at your local auto parts store. They sell kits with a new pin and new brass bushings to make your hinges like new. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 13:26:44 EST Subject: cart wheels from MIG discussion A few months ago during the MIG welder discussion, someone posted a link to pics of a cart they made for their father that rolled on mini OWL Goodyear tires. If that person is still on the list I would like to know where you found the tires. Feel free to email me off list. Thanks Nate 64 ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 20:11:34 GMT Subject: Re: factory installed > >Does anyone know what the factory installed gears (ratio) would be for a >1976 F-100 4x4? ( 360/C6 NP205 ) > I'd say its likely 3.50 gears, but check the tags on the axles to be sure, you'll find the numbers in I believe the lower left written like "3 50" Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: worn T-18 shifter pin Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 19:59:44 I have a '73 T-18 tranny with a lot of play in the shifter. In the past it was because the pin was worn. -the pin the goes horizontally throught the collar of the trans that the shifter pivots on (sorry, I don't know the technical term for it). In the past, a tranny shop said that it was no longer available, so I made one. It is worn out again. What do you guys do? Is there some where to get them? Or do you make your own, if so, out of what? This one didn't last long. Thanks... Marty *in digest mode* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: worn T-18 shifter pin Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 14:36:58 -0800 If you use a 1/4" grade #8 bolt (with shank) and cut/grind the head & threads off, then the smooth shank will work just fine. I was forced to create such a pin the last time I replaced my clutch because my "helper" lost the original. Michael 69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS 69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > I have a '73 T-18 tranny with a lot of play in the shifter. In the past it > was because the pin was worn. -the pin the goes horizontally throught the > collar of the trans that the shifter pivots on (sorry, I don't know the > technical term for it). In the past, a tranny shop said that it was no > longer available, so I made one. It is worn out again. What do you guys > do? Is there some where to get them? Or do you make your own, if so, out > of what? This one didn't last long. > > Thanks... > > Marty > *in digest mode* ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Np208 Transfer case? Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 17:53:29 -0800 I have a 208 that won't stay in high range, 4wd or 2wd, either one. It was run without oil for some time apparently so who knows but....Does anyone have any real time experience with opening one of these up? Any suggestions as to where to look for the problem? My first thought is that the shaft bearings are trashed and alowing the engagement dogs to come apart. A worn shift fork may do it but I suspect this is far more serious. Fortunately 4lo still works so I can keep the drive cleaned out but I'd like to get it on the road so I can do my Mother in Law's drive too. I've seen rebuild prices on this between $600 and $800 so that's not an option. Guna hafta fix er myself....... I notice that this unit was used in Fords and Chevys in the same years, 80-86 and was used by both in the HD trucks as well as the ligher ones so it must be rather stout. Any comments on this will be appreciated :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/ms-tnef -- File: winmail.dat ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 15:02:27 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: Np208 Transfer case? Sounds like something with the forks have worn out or broken. I have rebuilt an NP207 which is similar in construction to the 208. They are very simple mechanically and can be rebuilt fairly easy if you get a copy of the overhaul/service manual. I am lucky enough the local dealer is good about making copies out of the service manual. My local carquest even copied some pages for me out of a service manual they had. You should be able to buy a rebuild kit for around $150-200. That should come with seals, nylon fork wear clips (dont know the technical term), and I think bearings too. It wont have a chain but that can be purchased seperatly if needed. Kenny ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 19:25:53 -0500 From: admin ford-trucks.com
Subject: Subscription to forum at http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-b Following are new messages posted in the Ford Truck Enthusiasts message board forums. If you have any questions, please use the contact form on the web site. To remove your subscription, visit our Message Board at www.ford-trucks.com, login, view any forum and click the subscription link. If you are subscribed to any of our mailing lists, you receive this message automatically as part of that subscription and it can only be disabled by unsubscribing from the mailing list. Messages posted in 1961-1979 Ford trucks =========================================================== "RE: 77-C6 transmission slippage" Posted by Art on 01/05/2001 18:09:56 http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/61_79/4871.html#8 ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 18:39:50 EST Subject: Re: worn T-18 shifter pin Thats not good news, I just put a T-18 into Tweety a lil while ago, and I did it because I felt it was easier to replace those pins, versus replacing the aluminum top plate on the NP 435 (which are the respective problems when you beat the snot out of these, according to dad anyhow) If anyone has a line on these, lemme know, I'll buy a dozen. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Charles T." <charlest hal-pc.org>
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 16:47:48 -0600 I have looked on the website several times......can not find the dates. Anyone know the dates?? > > Go to the Pigeon Forge Web site and all the events are listed there along > with accomodations. Weather is great there in May....Beautiful in fact the > two times I've been there. You won't regret the trip and the Smoky > mountains are a delight to visit....miles and miles of rocks and trees and > scenic views, hiking trails and water falls (which we hope to vist this > year). > > I will go see If I can find the site again and publish it for youse guys :-) > > -- > Happily Retired (but broke) > Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary > -- > > > What are the dates for this year's event? > > > > > How is the weather that of year for camping. > > > > > > Virgil > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 18:36:47 -0600 (CST) From: Kourtney Ray de Haas <kourt uts.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Truck won't turn off! Truck is running, but when I turn the key to the off position, and even pull it out, the truck keeps running. The only way I can kill the engine is to disconnect the battery. Are there some obvious/normal fixes to this issue? Starter relay? Keeping the 1/2" wrench on the keyring, Kourtney de Haas Austin, TX 1970 F100 360 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 20:34:31 -0500 From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: rust my worst fear In effect what I was trying to do was replicate Cosmoline by dissolving Vaseline in the WD40. When the WD40 went away there would be a coating of greasy stuff left. Cosmoline sounds fine but do you have any idea where I can fine it for retail? I also assume that you can wash it off with a petroleum solvent at a later time. I used to work at a summer job where we hot tanked Iron stove parts in a real strong HOT solution of a soap made by Oakite. After the stoves were rinsed off they would immediately begin to rust. The soap was so strong that it would actually dissolve aluminum. We then coated them with some thin oil , also made by Oakite, and the solvent evaporated and left a greasy/waxy coating. I would really like to find this stuff. At 10:27 AM 1/5/01 -0800, you wrote: >~~~ >Cosmoline is the best long term protective coating I've ever seen. It is >basically a wax based grease with a fast solvent in it so that it penetrates >deep into the holes and crannies but then the solvent evaproates leaving >only the grease...like good Chain lube (which might be another good choice, >not sure?). > >-- >Happily Retired (but broke) >Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, >78 Bronco Loving, Gary >-- > > > Don't know if this is true- but I've been told that WD40 has water in it, > > and is therefore not a good choice as a rust inhibitor. Can anyone > > confirm/refute this myth? ------------------------------ From: "Shelley Batty" <shelba molalla.net>
Subject: Re: Need to Locate 312 Y Block Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 18:02:50 -0800 Where are you? My next door neighbor could probably be talked out of a complete 62 F100 4x4, with a 312, if you are close enough for that to be an option that interests you. Truck is in Molalla, Oregon (NW part of the state, near Portland). Thom Batty 66 F250 Utility -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of SevnD2 aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 7:03 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Need to Locate 312 Y Block I need to locate a 312 Y block for someone who doesn't have access to the web. What they need is just a good block, but a whole engine isn't out of the question. Just e-mail me privately with information. Thank you. Rollie ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 21:06:47 -0500 From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: whistling vent windows >I have a cheap fix that I used on my 1971 F-100. I put 3 pennies under >the latch to make it hold tighter and it >quit wistling. I just jammed a piece of cardboard under my latch. It makes a big difference! I think eventually the latch bends inward too much and it doesn't put enough pull on the window. >Doublecheck that it is the vent window itself whistling and not the felts >being >completely shot in the window channel ... otherwise you can put something >under >the latch or look for better latches that will hold it tighter, if things are >too bad you'll have to look at replacing the gaskets (or you could just do >that >first I suppose :) Exactly! A good piece of solid window channel rubber is another of those little items I try to snag when I'm at the junkyard. Most of them have big chunks missing out of them but once in a while you find a nice soft, complete one that doesn't crack when you try to pull it out of the door. I've got at least 3 pieces stashed away in my apartment...I'm almost reached the point where I'm counting the days before I move into the new house and my trucks and their associated parts move into the new garage! :-) I don't think SWMBO would tolerate having weather stripping and window channel rubber decorating an apartment if we were living together in it... David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces. "PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking. "PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into... Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada ------------------------------ From: huston kudzumedia.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 20:45:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 I think it is May 18-21. Virgil On 5 Jan 2001, at 16:47, Charles T. wrote: From: "Charles T." <charlest hal-pc.org>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Date sent: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 16:47:48 -0600 Send reply to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> > I have looked on the website several times......can not find the > dates. Anyone know the dates?? > ------------------------------ From: "Shelley Batty" <shelba molalla.net>
Subject: tranny swap Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 18:19:47 -0800 When I bought my 66 F250, it had a very noisy stock 3 speed tranny. Also included in the deal was a NP 435, a 4-speed floor plan, and a drive shaft which may or may not be the right length. The 3 speed has gotten much worse, and does not hold gear lube at all well (I assume the problems to be related ;^) ) So, time has come to swap transmissions. I know the drive shaft will probably not be the right length, and the cross member will probably need to be moved. Any other potential problems I should be aware of? The truck is not yet my daily driver, so I can afford a little down time, but would prefer to be as well prepared going in to this as possible. Thanks Thom Batty 66 F250 Utility ------------------------------ From: "Shelley Batty" <shelba molalla.net>
Subject: gas tank options Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 18:26:04 -0800 I would like to get the fuel tank out of the cab of my 66 F250. I'm getting some fumes in the cab, and it just doesn't seem like a really great spot for gasoline anyway. I would like to swap in a tank that will fit between the frame rails under the bed. Larger capacity would be nice as well. Any suggestions for donor vehicles, or a tank that will fit fairly easily? I think I saw on a web site somewhere that someone had install a 70's era suburban tank in a 60's Ford, and that it was a good fit. Was this someone from the list, or does anybody know where to find this web page again? Thanks for the help Thom Batty 66 F250 Utility ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 21:20:47 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
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