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Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 17:34:49 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #38
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 05 Feb 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 038

In This Issue:
Emergency brake cables
Re: 460/balancer/front seal
Oil leak in 460
Talking about
ADMIN: NEW Ford Lightning Rod Concept on web site
Gearvendors
428 build up
Re: Where to buy a rebuilt engine?
Re: Talking about
Re: 1970 Van
Urban Myths
Re: Pigeon Forge Auto Need?  (Was Any kind of vacations)
Re: Where to buy a rebuilt engine?
Conversion to Electric Choke
Re: 428 build up
Re: Oil leak in 460
Re: '79 F-350 Update and Emerg. Brake Cable ?
Re: Conversion to Electric Choke
Re: Conversion to Electric Choke
Re: ADMIN: NEW Ford Lightning Rod Concept on web site
Re: Talking about
Re: Conversion to Electric Choke
Re: Conversion to Electric Choke
Tie Rod Puller?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Emergency brake cables
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:35:15 -0600

Eric F. writes:>> They are fraid at the split from the front cable to the
two rear cables.  <<

Have you measured and tried a salvage yard nearby that has one of
similar years even the F150 or the F250 should work and the year
should just have to fall within the spectrum.  Ie 73 - 79; or 67 - 72..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 460/balancer/front seal
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:48:48 -0800


The spacer is what the seal runs on and there is an oil slinger in there as
well.  The seal must be removed from the inside as I recall but.......make
sure your crank is in good shape too.  If the front bearing is loose your
seal won't hold up regardless but I think you are looking at a refurb or
replace on the spacer which are available new from Ford.....for a price.

On 78 and earlier engines the spacer is zero balanced but on 79 and up they
are counter balanced to match the flex plate or flywheel due to external
balancing of the engine in those years so make sure you get the correct one.
If there are few miles on the engine you may be able to just replace the
spacer and leave the seal alone unless the spacer was so rough that it has
already damaged it.  I've been through several on my engine because I
initially did not grind the crank and I used a spacer that was not up to
snuff.  The leaking spacer allowed dirt to get in and destroy the front main
journal and there is no hope of salvaging the mess now so I'm looking at a
new crank or crank grind and a new spacer to get this back up to my
expectations.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I need a little help here. I have a newly built 1970(s) 460 in my
> 79 F150 4x4. There is oil leaking from behind the harmonic
> balancer(when engine is running). It appears to be coming from
> the front seal. Soooo, my questions are:


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Oil leak in 460
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:56:09 -0600

Charles T. writes:
>>1. Could the old balancer have caused the leak?<<

Not likely, but yes it could.

>>2. Should I replace the old one regardless? ($300)<<

Replace only those parts that are the problem

>>3. Can I replace the front seal without removing the timing cover?
   Some books say it must be installed from the rear to the front,
others don't specify.<<

I have a couple of the 73 and later ones apart right now and neither can be
replaced from the front..  The timing cover must come off and the seal inserted
from the chain side..  I was in an engine just recently that you could replace
front timing seal from the front but I don't remember which family it was for
sure but I think it was a '87 351W..


>>4. Could the old spacer have caused the leak?<<

The seal rides on the spacer, so I would think that the seal either got nicked on
installiation or the spacer has a nick in it or a grove so deep that the seal doesn't
seal..  At any rate this is the area that I'd be inspecting real close..

>>5. Should I replace it regardless?<<

My Daddy taught me this:  " If it ain't broke - Don't fix it"..  There are times that
I do not follow this advise.  It all depends on the cost and the difficulty of getting
into it if it fails.  Use your own judgement here.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Talking about
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:58:24 -0600

Wish writes:  >>If anyone has any idea what I'm talkin about, please
let me know.<<

You really expect us to know what you're rambling about when you don't???
Sheech!!


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 18:12:32 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: NEW Ford Lightning Rod Concept on web site


Check out the hot new Ford Lightning Rod Concept on the web
site!

http://www.ford-trucks.com/news/newsc4.html

You've never seen tires like the ones on this truck!

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 18:37:00 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Gearvendors


Anyone out there ever put in a gearvendors OD unit.

I thought a 3.10 rear end and a .78 overdrive might
give a little less strain on the bottom for hauling and the
OD might give a little more economy on the flat.

Any opinions?

Did something happen to this list?   My last message was 1/25/01
I was on business all last week+ and came back to no list mail?


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 18:20:07 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie <kbaillie home.com>
Subject: 428 build up

Hey guys well I finally have made the purchase of the engine that is going
into my 74 F250 4x4 Highboy.  At first it was going to be a 390 but then
switched to the idea of a 460 (to much modifications and work) and then
finally decided to go with the ever popular 428.

The 428 is at the machine shop right now getting hot tanked , magnafluxed
andmeasered up.  My questions start with:

-What things should I be doing to this motor to get to where I want it
My goal is a torque monster not a freeway racer, but also a daily driver.

So far I plan on doing or purchasing the following
      -headers, 1 3/4, 3" collector, 3" pipe and exhaust dumped just after
the cab??
      - new 600 or 750  4bbl edelbrock carb  600 is suggested, but why not
go with 750??
      - RV style cam, any suggestions??
      -Double roller timing set
Any other ideas???

Thanks
Kirk Baillie



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Where to buy a rebuilt engine?
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 18:17:32 -0800


Anyone notice that United Engines is offering 428s shortblock $650, longbloc
$950.  Oh the possibilities!

Tom H

>
> From my web browser bookmark:
>
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.atk-engines.com/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.unitedengine.net/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.economyenginesales.com

The first two websites also provide prices. atk_engines is expensive.
unitedengine is at the other end of the price scale.

Ben

On Sat, 3 Feb 2001 21:15:35 -0800, you wrote:

%----------------------------------------------------------
%Support FTE - Check out our store:
%http://www.motorhaven.com/
%----------------------------------------------------------
%I am looking for a place to buy a rebuilt engine, anybody know of any
good places online?
%
%
%
%Garrett Nelson
%www.1966ford.com
%
%=============================================================
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Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Talking about
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 18:17:31 -0800



> Wish writes:  >>If anyone has any idea what I'm talkin about, please
> let me know.<<
>
> You really expect us to know what you're rambling about when
> you don't???
> Sheech!!
>
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.
>

Are you kidding?  This is FTE repository for all information in the
UNIVERSE!!! AHHH HAHHAHAHAHAHA!!!   Sorry ;-)  Try Classic Roadsters
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classicroadsters.com
Look for their RAT (rugged all terrain vehicle) which btw you have to supply
one of the generals rodent pickups as a foundation.

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 21:57:08 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Van


At 02:53 PM 2/1/01 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Hey all, I'm new to the list and have a 1970 Econoline E200 Van, and
>would like to know if anyone knows of any clubs for the early '70's
>vans, also if anyone knows of a good parts source for these vans.
>
>Thanks,
>Randy
>


Randy,

Check out the Web-Site:  VANNIN.COM

I don't know anything about them but I have done a little horse trading
with them before. I know they are all about Vans and probably a mix of
every brand. But it's the only one that comes to mind.

Good Luck!

Dan Herrmann



------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Urban Myths
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 21:47:26 -0500

I had to share this one with people who would understand. Doing the last shift today and picked up a copy of Old Auto's. What jumps out at me is a pristine "'77 F150 - body solid, needs carb - $1500.00(Cdn.(I think that works out to $25.00US)". I almost fall out of my chair to get to the phone and the woman who answers said yes she had the truck, found it in her fathers barn. It was rust free except a small area by the windshield. It had sat for countless years and she now needed to clear the barn. It sold the same day the ad went in!!! I then saw the trader I was looking through was November of last year. She said she could not believe the number of calls she got on the truck. No kidding!!!!!
This just goes to show that sometimes "it's to good to be true" really is true. I cut the ad out to remind me their's always hope of finding that one great deal.

John
'77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "Tim Bowman" <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge Auto Need?  (Was Any kind of vacations)
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 20:17:51 -0800


Thanks for all of the tips.

Since I'm coming by myself to take in the Supernationals and I'm in good
health and an avid walker, I think I'll forgo the car for most of the time.

I looked at another '56 F100 this weekend but decided to pass on it as it
had many of the same fixit requirements as the one I presently have has.  If
anyone in the Pacific NW is interested in a project truck, contact me
offlist and I'll connect you with the seller and give more information.

Tim Bowman
tkbowman qwest.net
website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman
(Pacific NW Carshow information & more)



------------------------------

From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Where to buy a rebuilt engine?
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 20:25:48 -0800




%
%Anyone notice that United Engines is offering 428s shortblock $650,
longbloc
%$950.  Oh the possibilities!

I got a quote from them today for a 300cid. The price quoted on email
was about $100 more than the website price. I'm still trying to get
more info regarding warranty, hot-run-before-ship and build sheet.

Will update the list if anyone is interested.

Ben

------------------------------

From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Conversion to Electric Choke
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 23:25:35 -0500


I wonder if any of you have tried to replace the earlier choke spring,
heated by air from the manifold "stove", to the later style direct
electrical heat type.  My air heated choke takes way too long to heat to
full open, even though I have the index mark way past LEAN.  The tubing thru
the manifold is real corroded, maybe plugged, and I know the tube is
slightly cracked where is exits the manifold.  Other than that, it works
correctly- I think this issue may be contributing to my dismally low
mileage- 8 MPG.

Could I simply get the choke cover/spring from a later (early 80's?) 4150
Motorcraft carb, bolt it on, and hook up an ignition hot wire to the thing?
Or, are there aftermarket electric conversions available?  Any details would
be helpful.

I'd hate to resort to full manual choke conversion.  TIA for advice.

Bob
'77 F-150 "the Beast"....rides again
400/NP435


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 07:35:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil leak in 460
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


>>>5. Should I replace it regardless?<<
>
> My Daddy taught me this:  " If it ain't broke - Don't fix it"..  There are
> times that
> I do not follow this advise.  It all depends on the cost and the difficulty
> of getting
> into it if it fails.  Use your own judgement here.

And I'll add: How much work and how many dollars is it to do all over again
if the piece I didn't replace is bad after all?

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 07:43:49 -0600
Subject: Re: ADMIN: NEW Ford Lightning Rod Concept on web site
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> You've never seen tires like the ones on this truck!

Pretty slick!! I want some tires that stamp FORD in the oval logo every time
they go around in the sand. ;-)

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 428 build up
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 08:21:09 -0800


Well, Number one, you should consider the cam specs before you make a
decision on the exhaust becsause they compliment each other.  If you want
torque then small header pipes in the headers is recommended but you also
have to have a fairly long exhaust system to take full advantage of this as
well as a cam that basically limits you to about 4000 rpm which the RV cam
may well do and in which case you will do much better with the 600 cfm carb.

You can still have gobs of torque (due to the size of the engine) by going
to a moderate torque set up which will still feel good when you punch it but
will also run into the 5-6k rpm range easily which will work better with the
header and short exhaust you have in mind and then the 750 carb will come in
handy as well.  Call the cam companies and ask for cam specs to fit your
plan, then build it the way they suggest for best results.  The rumor is
that Crower may be the best Ford source.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> The 428 is at the machine shop right now getting hot tanked , magnafluxed
> andmeasered up.  My questions start with:
>
> -What things should I be doing to this motor to get to where I want it
> My goal is a torque monster not a freeway racer, but also a daily driver.
>
> So far I plan on doing or purchasing the following
>        -headers, 1 3/4, 3" collector, 3" pipe and exhaust dumped
> just after
> the cab??
>        - new 600 or 750  4bbl edelbrock carb  600 is suggested,
> but why not
> go with 750??
>        - RV style cam, any suggestions??
>        -Double roller timing set


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Oil leak in 460
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 08:31:22 -0800


You don't want a front seal to leak because is allows dirt to get into the
front main bearing almost directly and it will trash your crank in a very
short time.  In 40k miles my crank went from pristeen to totally trashed
with scratches way over 0.010" deep.  I don't know if it's even salvageable.
I only run it occasionally now to keep the rings free but the oil litterally
runs out on the ground when I run it now so it's waiting for a new crank kit
from PAW which I last saw listed for $170 or so with bearings.  I believe
mine may have been the sleeve all along but the crank probably should have
been reground too (I was on a very tight budget).  Try slapping in a new
sleeve and if that doesn't stop the leak then you will have to pull the
cover. (but you will already have the new sleeve which you also need so it
won't be wasted in any case :-))

A leaking rear main will allow dirt to get in too but it's not force fed
like the front so won't damage the crank as quickly.  The rear is also
protected by the bell housing to some extent.  Up front you have the fan and
tire splash washing that area constanly with road dirt and mud etc...  I've
even seen some people put two seals in there....Hmmmmmmmm...:-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> And I'll add: How much work and how many dollars is it to do all
> over again
> if the piece I didn't replace is bad after all?
>
> -- John


------------------------------

From: "Don Jones" <twistedhand hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '79 F-350 Update and Emerg. Brake Cable ?
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 14:34:17


This truck has a 6" lift on it and the current cables
>are somewhat tight.  Is my best bet just to take the
older cables off and
>try to get a parts store to match them up?  Did
someone have a source for
>these cables in the last conversation?  Have other
people found shops that
>will make up custom cables?  Anyone know of one
that'll help me?
>

I got a "semi-universal" rear cable last fall for my f-250 4x4 last fall.
It was made by Wagner and was around $30 CDN.  I dont have the part #
anymore, but the box said it was part of a program they have for
brake/muffler shops and small repair shops to help them keep their parts
inventory down.
It had the proper end for the rear, ant the only thing really universal was
that the front was cut to fit and had a screw on end.
It had lots of length, as I had to cut off about 4 feet. My truck is a
lifted long bed 4wd f-250.

I coated the entire inside of the cable with anti-seize. I find this works
great and dosent stick in cold weather like grease does.

Actually i have never had an E-brake cable seize or freeze using anti-seize,
 but they do tend to get ripped off sometimes when you drive over things
:-)

Don Jones
1970 F-250 4x4
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 06:45:53 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Conversion to Electric Choke




Andersons wrote:
 My air heated choke takes way too long to heat to
> full open, even though I have the index mark way past LEAN.  The tubing thru
> the manifold is real corroded, maybe plugged, and I know the tube is
> slightly cracked where is exits the manifold.  Other than that, it works
> correctly- I think this issue may be contributing to my dismally low
> mileage- 8 MPG.
>

I get so frustrated with chokes that don't open all the way or take too
long to do so, I usually just adjust/wire/whatever-it-takes to keep the
choke wide open all the time.  I've done that to my 351C, my Mustang,
and now my 65 Chrysler 413...It takes a short time to warm up and smooth
out, but not that long, and it does help the mileage...
--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Conversion to Electric Choke
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 08:51:13 -0800


You won't be happy with just a 12v supply to a Holley heater, you need to
stick a ballast resistor in there to get the voltage down to about 10.5-11v
(no load, about 9v at the heater tab with heater connected and power on and
voltage goes back up as the heater heats up) but yes you can just stick it
on there and make it work.  I used a chrysler 0.7 ohm as I recall.  I took
my multimeter with me and tested all that they had (3 types) and wound up
using the lowest value.  The values are not listed anywhere, you have to
plug them into an Ohm meter to find out.  BTW, I tried some electronic
resistors I had lying around and twisted the wires together in bunches to
get the OHM's and current capacity I wanted and litterally smoked everything
I tried, it must be a ballast resistor so the current rating is sufficient.
I even tried a rheostat and that went up in smoke in about 1/2 second :-)
Perhaps the rheostat in an old headlight switch might work for this so you
can make it adjustable and play with it (just occured to me :-))

Electric chokes typically come off way too soon so you need to slow them
down a tad.  This changed the timing from about 2 minutes to about 7 minutes
for complete open which seems to be about perfect for me.  Now that I've
worked out this "Fix" I recommend electric over just about any other system
:-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I wonder if any of you have tried to replace the earlier choke spring,
> heated by air from the manifold "stove", to the later style direct
> electrical heat type.

> Bob


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: NEW Ford Lightning Rod Concept on web site
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 08:59:10 -0800


I see it also comes with a 5 year/60k mile GM warantee acording to the
banner at the top of the screen, eh?

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Check out the hot new Ford Lightning Rod Concept on the web
> site!
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/news/newsc4.html
>
> You've never seen tires like the ones on this truck!
>
> Ken Payne


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 16:40:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Talking about


>> You really expect us to know what you're rambling about when
>> you don't???
>> Sheech!!

I could've sworn you read minds Azie ... maybe its just been coincidence all
these years ;)

> Try Classic Roadsters
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classicroadsters.com
>Look for their RAT (rugged all terrain vehicle) which btw you have to supply

>one of the generals rodent pickups as a foundation.
>

Tom thanks, I did a last ditch search and did find it, but they did change the
name, that's why I couldn't find it with any of my normal searches, its now
called the Badlands RT and you have to have a general to do it with ... when
it was first released it just said any old truck ...

Mark was kind enough to send a list of other sites to check out, we'll see what
happens :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 16:59:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Conversion to Electric Choke


> My air heated choke takes way too long to heat to
>full open, even though I have the index mark way past LEAN.  The tubing thru

>the manifold is real corroded, maybe plugged, and I know the tube is
>slightly cracked where is exits the manifold.  Other than that, it works
>correctly-


This may be a radical idea and all, but I know the HELP section of your local
parts store (I know you love that phrase Tony) should have choke stove repair
kits I believe they're called, its basically a roll of aluminum tubing with
a couple fittings on it so you can put a new line in instead of doing this conversion.
I think its only a couple of bucks and might be worth a shot.


Gary, thanks for the tips on the electric choke, I may give that a shot to see
if I can get the choke working ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 14:29:51 EST
Subject: Re: Conversion to Electric Choke


In a message dated 02/05/2001 11:25:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
robertan cfw.com writes:

<< Could I simply get the choke cover/spring from a later (early 80's?) 4150
Motorcraft carb, bolt it on, and hook up an ignition hot wire to the thing?
>>

I don't know what the differences are in the springs in them, but There are
different gaskets used for electric than the exhaust stove type. The electric
choke gasket covers the coil spring mostly. The exhaust stove type is open
(ring) exposing the coil spring to the heated exhaust gases.

Now for the wiring. Don't wire it to 12 V. It can possibly burn out the
little element inside of the cap or the bimetal switch as well if equipped.
The correct way is to wire it to the center tap connection on the alternator.
It is identified by the black insulator on it. It has an output of around 7
volts. This way the choke doesn't get opened prematurely while just cranking
the engine as will happen if you wire directly to the ignition or other
ignition activated supply.

Now for the type with a bimetal switch built in. They turn on and off at
certain temperatures. This is good for different climates encountered. Like
in the Florida Keys, one may never even need a choke. Not the case for the
New England states. I am sure they have been making good use of the automatic
choke this week. Glad I am not any further north than North Carolina this
time of year :-)

Anyway, I converted my 72 Torino over to an electric choke. It works great! I
have the option of using the exhaust heat stove, but I like the electric
better.

Hope this helps,

Rollie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 13:31:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Tie Rod Puller?


Well as you might imagine I'm having some trouble getting the tie rods on
my dropped drag link separated from the rest of the steering components.
I've tried the two pickle forks I've got and neither one worked.  They
both started deforming by pushing the forks further apart instead of
pushing the tie rod away from the pitman arm or the other steering arm.

I'm trying to determine who makes this dropped drag link so I can replace
just the tie rod ends.  I've been on the phone with tech support for both
Skyjacker and Superlift and I'm pretty confident that I can identify it if
only I can get it off the truck...  That's where I need some help.  I was
looking at some different type of separators on Harbor Freight and was
curious if they work better than typical forks.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38649
vs.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36865

If you're interested in what I'm trying to identify here are some closeup
pics of it.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/F350/DragLink1.jpg
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/F350/DragLink2.jpg
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/F350/DragLink3.jpg

So any advice before I head out to Pep Boys to see what they've got for
me...

Later,
Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress again...)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=788
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=1340
Personal Homepage w/ more pics
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/ ....


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