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61-79-list Digest Tue, 30 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 030

In This Issue:
Re: ENGINE wont start
Re: ENGINE WONT START
Re: missing battery
Re: ENGINE WONT START
D60 brakes
Vacuum diagram
grounded coils
460 pistons
460 piston
Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Engine Wont start
Reno..
Engine Wont Start
Re: Engine Wont start
Brake troubles please help!!!
Re: Engine Wont start
Re: Engine Wont Start
Re: grounded coils
Re: Engine Wont start
Re: Brake troubles please help!!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENGINE wont start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:58:33 -0800


What if the battery is missing?  I went out one day to start mine and it did
nothing...when I opened the hood there was no battery....:-(  (delinquent
son sold it to a buddy so he could buy cigarettes :-))  (he's supporting
himself now, finally :-))

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Now this was
> written as a generalization on trouble shooting so I hope nobody
> holds me to
> details left out, like, what if the motor has no compression, motor wont
> turn over, etc, there is a proceedure for everything.  Off the
> soap box now.
>
>  Rich


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 12:04:54 EST
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START

In a message dated 1/30/2001 8:52:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:


> When I put it back in I did
> a much neater job than the last yahooooo :-)
>

I swear, I hate it when someone does a half a job to get something running.
Now dont get me wrong, I consider myself the king of duct tape and bailing
wire fixes.  (My crowning glory will be to make a spare tire completely out
of duct tape and wire)  But whn I get home, all that junk comes off, and the
problem is fixed correctly.  I just went through hell last night on the
Mustang.  My Alternator had died, without any warning from the Alt light.  So
I got it tested, and it was WAY overcharging, so on the safe side I bought a
new regulator and put it all in.  Fired up the car and viola!  the alt light
is working great.  So naturally I took everytrhing back off, including the
mass of electrical tape that someone had mistaken for a repair, and found
that the harness from the regulator to the alternator was cut and spliced in
not 1, 2 or ewven 3 places, but 12!!!!!  some were just wire nuts, some were
crimp connectors, others, well I wont tell ya the rest, It made me uneasy
though.  The solution was simple enough, I took the correct part out of the
same harness I pilfered my Duraspark from, Modified it to fit my Mustang (The
truck had a guage, so its a lil different)  and soldered and heat shrinked
all the connections.Then I wrapped it up in tape, and it looks all like
stock.  And It wont cause me any problems down the line either.  All it took
me was 30 min worth of work.  When you factor in the fact that I could've
been stranded 50 miles from no where, I consider that 30 min time well spent.

As my dad said, "theres never enough time to do the job right, just plenty of
time to do it over"

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 11:04:20 -0600
Subject: Re: missing battery
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> What if the battery is missing?  I went out one day to start mine and it did
> nothing...when I opened the hood there was no battery....

I opened the hood one day to find the end of the battery eaten off by a rat.
The moral is don't store your truck in the barn. I always wondered what the
acid did to him....

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 11:06:39 -0600
Subject: Re: D60 brakes
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Also, I am missing the ID tag on the axle. That makes things a little
> difficult. The truck is a camper special, which I believe has wider brake
> shoes. Can anyone verify? Are the rear brake cylinders special or different
> from the run of the mill F250?

Doss,

Sounds like you need to take your old parts with you for comparison. Looks
like you have a perfect recipe for getting the wrong stuff for your truck.
If you mail order, be sure your source has a liberal return policy.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 12:11:14 EST
Subject: Re: missing battery

In a message dated 1/30/2001 9:08:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:


> I always wondered what the
> acid did to him....
>

Well I can bet it taught him not to chew on anymore batteries....

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: luminous neteze.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:41:33 -0800
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START


Greetings Gentlemen (and Ladies),

I thought I'd "delurk" for a moment to try and clear up an
apparent misconception about ignition coils.

Gary's statement "Ford coils are grounded through the bracket" is
incorrect.  In fact, there should be NO connection from the case
to ANY of the coil windings.
An ohmmeter check from the case to any of the 3 coil terminals
should read (on a good coil) infinity, or at least many megohms.

Ford coils, (and almost all others) have the "other" end of the
secondary winding connected internally to the negative (points) end
of the primary winding. This can be easily verified with an ohmmeter.
The secondary circuit return path is thru the condensor inside the
distributor, and grounding the case of the coil is NOT a requirement
for the circuit to work.

If one encounters a coil that will only work when the case is
grounded then something is wrong, either with the coil, or perhaps
a bad condensor.

Note: Grounding the coil case *does* substantially reduce the amount
of EMI produced by the ign circuit, but it's not required to
make the system operate.

For those who may be "non-believers" about the coil not needing
to be grounded, I would suggest one of the many websites that
explain the theory and operation of the "Kettering" ignition
system, and/or simply cut an old coil open and take note of
where the wires go!
I've run Fords many times with the coil not bolted to anything,
or just dangling from tie-wraps or whatever, and never had
any related ign problems...

Cheers,

Jim Imboden

---------------------------------

At 10:52 AM 1/30/01 -0800, Gary wrote:

>All of the metal can ones that are in a braket with a single bolt holding it
>to the engine AFAIK.  The newer ones are plastic and have some other way to
>ground them.  If the black rubber plugs are bad it will do that too.  Old
>truck wiring is the biggest pain to trouble shoot because there are so many
>places it can be bad :-(  I just pulled the whole tail light wire harness of
>a truck to locate the bad spot and found exactly what I expected, rotted
>wire inside the insulation.  The only clue was the fact that the wire bent a
>little too easily and sharply in that spot :-)  When I put it back in I did
>a much neater job than the last yahooooo :-)
>
>--
>Happily Retired (but broke)
>Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>--
>
>> GaryBBB wrote:
>>   guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the
>> > bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run
>> "intermittantly" and
>> > drive you crazy.
>>
>>  How far back does this go?  I mean, specifically, does it apply to the
>> Cleveland in my truck?  I have been having problems and narrowed it down
>> to the coil not firing, but this could shed new light...I have been
>> looking at after market "Hotter" coils...


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 13:20:07 -0600
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


>  I've run Fords many times with the coil not bolted to anything,
>  or just dangling from tie-wraps or whatever, and never had
>  any related ign problems...

Thanks, Jim. My Ford experience is rather limited. I know my uncle used to
tell me that if the coil ever shorted to ground, you could unbolt it, lay it
up on the engine wrapped in a rag and get home. In those days I was driving
stuff from the general. Zip ties hadn't been invented.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 13:41:15 -0800
From: Eric <ekdonaldson bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: D60 brakes


Mine's a '66 CS Doss, which I think has the same "special" brakes as yours.
I recall the shoes were a larger diameter, and narrower, but I might have
it backwards. I had no trouble getting them or the cylinders, which I think
are the same. The tough to get part was the flexible hose from axle to
frame, but it was located locally after a few calls.
You might want to drain your diff lube while you're under there so it
doesn't run out the axle tubes.

Eric


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Vacuum diagram
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 17:04:09 -0600

Tom writes:  >>I need a vacuum diagram for my 79 F150 400HP
automatic. Have not been able to find one. The factory manual
doesn't even have one. Everything refers me to the sticker under
the hood that hasn't been there for years. Does anyone have a
suggestion?<<

Find a friend with a'79 with similar engine/equipment and see if his truck
has the routing sticker!!!  I've done that on a couple of different
projects in the past..


Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: grounded coils
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 17:20:39 -0600

Gary writes:  >>Ford coils are grounded through the
bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run "intermittantly" and
drive you crazy.  <<

Say whatttt???

I've run many with the coil laying across the insulated plug wires..Not
a permanent thing, but a test mode, and maybe a short trip home or
someplace to properly mount it.. No ground..  I think you're wrong here
Gary..  The later models even have a plastic like housing..  Not
conductive.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 460 pistons
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 17:31:31 -0600

Anyone out there in FTE land got a set of 460 pistons of '68-'71
vintage that they would like to get rid of??  One of mine has
the skirt broken.  # cast in side next to wristpin is C8VE C..
They are from a '70 model 4V motor out of an LTD...

Contact me off list if you have some you'd like to get rid of.
I'd consider others than the # above, but I want the earlier
ones..Not sure if there are other #'s or not for those

Maggi11 Hiwaay.net
Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 460 piston
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:29:11 -0600

My earlier post that reads:  >>
They are from a '70 model 4V motor out of an LTD...<<

Should read from a Lincoln - Not LTD..

At any rate I need that(those) piston('s)..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Jerry Summerall" <k7yvz qsl.net>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 18:38:46 -0700


Not sure if the '80 models are the same but assume so. Take a piece of pipe
1 foot long that is just a bit smaller then the nut. Without going out and
measuring it I think it is 2 inch thin walled pipe. Next weld two pieces of
key stock on the end to fit the groves in the nut. Need a hole on the other
end to slide a screw driver or I use a beakover handle.


----- Original Message -----
From: John Watson <johnw illawarramercury.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 4:29 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco


>
> I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts from my 81
> 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner ' and
cannot
> source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a
> screwdriver and hammer with no success.  Does anyone have any ideas on how
> to get the nuts off ???
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> >
>


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Engine Wont start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 21:57:45 -0500


>   guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the
> bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run
> "intermittantly" and > drive you crazy.

Not picking on ya here Gary, but how can this be?  Without giving a
disertation on how a coil works here, a coil is grounded through the
points\controll module.  If you ground the + primary side of the coil to the
case you lose supply voltage.  If you ground the secondary side of the coil,
you put approx 25 KV to ground, no spark to the dizzy.  You ground the -
primary side of the coil to the case, no voltage flux is built and no coil
secondary output.  I pulled the metal coil of my old truck and took it to
work today and MegOhmed all three points to the case using 10,000 volts.  No
leakage what so ever.  I just now came in from re-installing the coil in the
truck, I held it in my hand away from the block while SWMBO started Ol Red.
She ran fine.  I'm not saying this didnt happen to you, I'm just courious as
heck as to why.  Have any specifics you can give?


"GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
> Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START
> I just pulled the whole tail light wire harness of
> a truck to locate the bad spot and found exactly what I expected, rotted
> wire inside the insulation.  The only clue was the fact that the wire bent
a
> little too easily and sharply in that spot

Again, not to pick on ya:)  But why did you do this?  Assume you have
tail\brake lights not working and your pretty sure the problem is in the
harnes.  I cant see anybody removing the harness to perform a visual
inspection.  I mean pull the harnes, open it up and hope you see something?
Hmmm. I'd check for voltage with a test light at the bulb socket, not there,
check for voltage in the harnes behind the cab, got voltage there, great
problem is between the cab and light socket.  Circuit cut in half in
minutes.  Now check the harnes above the wheel well, dont have voltage?
problem is between cab and rear wheels.  Within minutes you can have the
problem isolated to within inches of the broken wire even if you cant see or
feel a break in the wire.  Now you can make the repair on the vehicle or see
if will save time to pull the harnes off the truck.  You can apply this
technique to almost anything that requires an input of some sort.  You may
be talking about the wiring harness at the rear of the bed between the two
tail lights, same rules apply.  If a person doesnt know the circuit, you
have to have the schematics, or you will have to take apart the wiring
harnes to chase the wire as it connects through connectors and changes color
50 different times from source to destination.  As an example, on your van,
if the blower motor didnt work, the problem was in the harnes, would ya pull
the harnes?  Schematics, test light\DVM and common sense prevails every time
:)   My Sons 16 year old Mustang would not start last week, I did the basic
checks, no fire.  No power to the computer or fuel pump, go figure, he had
no fire or fuel.  Think I'm pulling his harnes? ...Not Me!  Got the prints,
fixed it in 1/2 hour.  The problem was a wire comming off the solonoid into
a fusable link was broken inside the insulation, prior to entering the
fusable link. That wire fed a relay that fed power to the computer AND fuel
pump.  That wire lookes and feels fine.  The break is in the hard molded
rubber where the wire is connected to the terminal.  A visual inspection
never would have found it.  Again, we all have our own methods and we do
whats best for us.

Rich


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 18:52:32 -0800
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Reno..


> >>How about Reno?  What's the FTE situation there...Any
> >>Reno-ites(Renoians?) online...?
>
> Yes,and Renoite is correct.
<snip>
>  There are enough people here alredy tho...so stay home :)

>>>You don't mind if I stop in 2 or 3 times a year to leave my money in
>>>those slot machines, do you...?

Heck,no. In drop a few in now and then myself. V

>>> Seems to keep your taxes down...

Not going to touch that one.......

>>>FTE content--the last couple of times I visited, I saw a Unibody parked
>>in a lot (wrecking yard?  shop?) just SW of the freeway on the way to
>>the airport...I couldn't get the damn shuttle driver to pull over,
>>though...

They have to get you to the slot machines as soon as possible.........

------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Engine Wont Start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:39:45 -0500


> From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>

>
> I can tell you that I had a bad green wire and the engine did as you say,
> ran, quit, ran quit then finally quit and stayed quit.  I also had a coil
> mount come loose and guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the
> bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run "intermittantly" and
> drive you crazy.  All the things I mentioned take all of 2 minutes to
check
> out and could save you a lot of "professional" trouble shooting by the
book.
> I always look at the simple stuff first, even if the book doesn't tell me
> too.....:-)

 Sorry, guess I didnt get my point across.  I'm constantly getting beat up
at work for this ;)  By the book I assume you mean those FLD's, flow charts,
etc.  A lot of Engineering echnical time and money was required to make
these.  That is a collateral duty of mine.  You have to write them that way
for a purpose, look at your audience, which is beyond the scope here.  I was
trying to give a frame of mind to trouble shoot a problem that cut to the
chase for the average failure.  I did not mean to imply  "professional"
trouble shooting, just common since.  I thought I conveyed the point to look
at the at the simple stuff first.  Jeesh, feel like I'm at work again..:)

you will never guess so I will tell you it was those STUPID
BLACK PLUGS AGAIN!!!  I'd plug them in and get fire then try to start it
and
the fire went away....over and over and over

Heres a little tip.  Any time you pull a connectoror or bulb socket, clean
the contacts and put silicone grease on the contacts.  Heck, fill the whole
connector, it wont hurt anything.  You'll be glad you did someday..:)  We
use it on connectors at work who's value can purchase MANY of our beloved
Ford trucks and are used in a worse <constant wet salty> inviroment.  Good
enough for them, good enough for me:)

Rich


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Wont start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:48:19 -0800


Answers interspersed throughout.

>
> >   guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the
>  > bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run
> > "intermittantly" and > drive you crazy.
>
> Not picking on ya here Gary, but how can this be?  Without giving a
> disertation on how a coil works here, a coil is grounded through the
> points\controll module.  If you ground the + primary side of
> the coil to the
> case you lose supply voltage.

Yes, I agree with that.

> If you ground the secondary
> side of the coil,
> you put approx 25 KV to ground, no spark to the dizzy.

Um, well,  Yes if you ground the high tension lead on the secondary side of
the coil yes your sparg goes to ground and not to the dizzy.  However there
is another lead on the secondary side of that coil and it has to go to
ground somewhere.  Someone earlier stated that that lead of the coil is
connected to the negative connection of the coil.  In other words both the
primary and secondary coils share a commond ground.  Perfectly legal.

> You ground the - primary side of the coil to the case, no voltage flux is
> built and no coil
> secondary output.

I disagree... a little.  Yes if you ground the - side of the coil the engine
will stop running but that is because you are shorting the points or
magnetic pickup/control module out of the circuit.  If you ground it a
constant current will flow through the coil's primary and create a static
magnetic flux field.  The coil works by intermittent current flow causing a
constantly changing flux field which induces the voltage in the secondary
coil.

> I pulled the metal coil of my old truck
> and took it to
> work today and MegOhmed all three points to the case using
> 10,000 volts.

Not sure what you mean here.

> No leakage what so ever.  I just now came in from re-installing
> the coil in the
> truck, I held it in my hand away from the block while SWMBO
> started Ol Red.
> She ran fine.  I'm not saying this didnt happen to you, I'm
> just courious as
> heck as to why.  Have any specifics you can give?
>
<snip Gary's original post>

My guess is that the coil flopping around loose in the bracket caused the
connections to it to break intermittently.  Either at the +/- connections or
at the high tension lead.

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:12:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
Subject: Brake troubles please help!!!


Ok sorry this is kinda long

Ok time to tap the old brains of the collective ford group at large.  I have a 1979
F-150 4x4 disc front drum rear.  Just replaced the rear wheel cylenders and lines,
Put on new front caliper on drivers side.  I just replaced the master cylender with
a brand new now re-man one.  Now the stupied brake light is coming on.  It is full
of fluid in the resvor no air in the lines.  But here is the thing about two weeks
ago it went up on jack stands to re doe the rear end 3rd member.  The driver side
rear has no e-brake cable it is rooted of i found out.. Alos that ssde had all the
hardware pulled of by my buddy but left the wheel cylder in place, he didnt relize
what the hole in the axel was for...anyways I am wondering if that might be the
problem that it just needs to be bled again since there was no pressure on the
system or what the deal is.  I can hit the brakes and feel it fade if i push on it
lightly it slows down slowy but if i step on it, it stops but the light comes on.
When the light comes on pump the brakes a few times light goes away.  I am stumped
and any help would be greatly appreacted...thanks in advance and sorry for such a
long e-mail


chris sullivan
1979 f-150
1992 jeep wrangler
MI

=====
With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was fool proof he headed off to her place.  He yelled out his feelings amoung other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough.

__________________________________________________
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year!  http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Wont start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:23:04 -0800


Sorry, secondary coil is grounded to the can for sure, not sure about the
primary, But if the can is not grounded the coil won't work.  I don't need
to get into all the scientific stuff here but that's the way the dang thing
works:-)  There is a red and green wire going to the coil and one does have
voltage to it, the other is switched.....to ground? who knows but if you
don't ground the coil can it won't work :-)  Both the original tar filled
and later oil filled were made that way.  Have no clue what they do now,
don't care either :-)

Tell you what.....take the coil off the truck and hold it in your hand and
have someone start the engine while you lean on something grounded to the
truck and see how long you hang on to that coil :-)  The juice is not
running down the side from the coil wire....bleeding off into the
atmosphere.....IT'S GROUNDED TO THE CAN and the can is grounded to you and
you are grounded to the truck so what do you think will happen?

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> > >   guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the
> >  > bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run
> > > "intermittantly" and > drive you crazy.
> >
> > Not picking on ya here Gary, but how can this be?  Without giving a
> > disertation on how a coil works here, a coil is grounded through the
> > points\controll module.  If you ground the + primary side of
> > the coil to the
> > case you lose supply voltage.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Wont Start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:29:02 -0800


Yup, Started doing that about 15 years ago and keep a tube in the tool box
all the time now.  All my electrical connector get stuffed with it :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Heres a little tip.  Any time you pull a connectoror or bulb socket, clean
> the contacts and put silicone grease on the contacts.  Heck, fill
> the whole
> connector


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: grounded coils
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:36:01 -0800


Well, I just posted a reply based on my experience with these things but,
even though we used to make them and I have worked on the line that made
them and saw the wires get soldered to the can (as I recall) I can't
remember exactly how it all worked so can't be the expert here.  Last time I
looked at one was probably 30 years ago so I'm a little rusty :-)

Looks like I've been shot down here so I'll concede to the group for now but
I'll be testing some of these theories and let you know what I find out.
I'll also let someone else hold the coil when I crank the engine :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Gary writes:  >>Ford coils are grounded through the
> bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run "intermittantly" and
> drive you crazy.  <<
>
> Say whatttt???
>
> I've run many with the coil laying across the insulated plug wires..Not
> a permanent thing, but a test mode, and maybe a short trip home or
> someplace to properly mount it.. No ground..  I think you're wrong here
> Gary..  The later models even have a plastic like housing..  Not
> conductive.
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Wont start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 21:20:44 -0800


I have a coil remote mounted with a rubber sleeve to reduce vibration.  It
works just fine.
I tested a some of the coils I have with an ohmmeter.  None of them have
continuity from either the + or - primary or the secondary lead to the coil
case.  I also have wiring diagrams for different coils that don't show any
grounds to the case.

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO SEFI, NP435
'41 Ford GPW
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
'77 F150 4WD 429
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"



------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Brake troubles please help!!!
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 00:25:39 -0500


I would bleed the brakes again--starting with the  wheel farthest from the
master cylinder & work your way to the closest one to the master cylinder.
There should be a pressure  switch (mine is close to the crossmember under
motor  on my 78)  near the drivers side.there should be an electrical wire
going to it.un -plug the wire & check the connections for corrosion.  I had
the same problem with mine & after I did this ,the problem went  away (no
more brake light on dash) hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 11:25 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Brake troubles please help!!!


>----------------------------------------------------------
>Support FTE - Check out our store:
>http://www.motorhaven.com/
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>Ok sorry this is kinda long
>
>Ok time to tap the old brains of the collective ford group at large.  I
have a 1979
>F-150 4x4 disc front drum rear.  Just replaced the rear wheel cylenders and
lines,
>Put on new front caliper on drivers side.  I just replaced the master
cylender with
>a brand new now re-man one.  Now the stupied brake light is coming on.  It
is full
>of fluid in the resvor no air in the lines.  But here is the thing about
two weeks
>ago it went up on jack stands to re doe the rear end 3rd member.  The
driver side
>rear has no e-brake cable it is rooted of i found out.. Alos that ssde had
all the
>hardware pulled of by my buddy but left the wheel cylder in place, he didnt
relize
>what the hole in the axel was for...anyways I am wondering if that might be
the
>problem that it just needs to be bled again since there was no pressure on
the
>system or what the deal is.  I can hit the brakes and feel it fade if i
push on it
>lightly it slows down slowy but if i step on it, it stops but the light
comes on.
>When the light comes on pump the brakes a few times light goes away.  I am
stumped
>and any help would be greatly appreacted...thanks in advance and sorry for
such a
>long e-mail
>
>
>chris sullivan
>1979 f-150
>1992 jeep wrangler
>MI
>
>=====
>With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was
fool proof he headed off to her place. He yelled out his feelings amoung
other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough.
>
>__________________________________________________
>Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
>a year!  http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 07:56:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Brake troubles please help!!!
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Put on new front caliper on drivers side.  I just replaced the master cylender
with
> a brand new now re-man one.  Now the stupied brake light is coming on.  It is
full
> of fluid in the resvor no air in the lines.  But here is the thing about two
weeks
> ago it went up on jack stands to re doe the rear end 3rd member.  The driver
side
> rear has no e-brake cable it is rooted of i found out.. Alos that ssde had all
the
> hardware pulled of by my buddy but left the wheel cylder in place, he didnt
relize
> what the hole in the axel was for...anyways I am wondering if that might be
the
> problem that it just needs to be bled again since there was no pressure on the
> system or what the deal is.  I can hit the brakes and feel it fade if i push
on it
> lightly it slows down slowy but if i step on it, it stops but the light comes
on.
> When the light comes on pump the brakes a few times light goes away.  I am
stumped
> and any help would be greatly appreacted...

Too much pedal travel which can be over come by pumping is the result of two
things, either alone or combined. Either you have air in the lines or your
rear shoes are way too loose. Air compresses. That's why you want it out of
your lines. When you put your rear shoes on, you should adjust them out so
that when you install the drum, it barely drags the shoes when you rotate
it. From the sound of your problem, you may have goofed up shoes on the side
where your buddy stripped everything off. When I worked on my brakes at
Christmas time, I didn't get one of the self adjusters engaged properly. The
first time I stepped on the brakes, that side jumped apart leaving way too
much distance for the shoes to travel. My brakes behaved very similar to
what you describe.

My advice is to visually inspect the pads and shoes on all four wheels.
Hopefully one side of the rear is correct. When you are satisfied that
everything is installed correctly, then bleed the air out.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 07:57:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Vacuum diagram
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Tom writes:  >>I need a vacuum diagram for my 79 F150 400HP
> automatic. Have not been able to find one. The factory manual
> doesn't even have one. Everything refers me to the sticker under
> the hood that hasn't been there for years. Does anyone have a
> suggestion?<<
>
> Find a friend with a'79 with similar engine/equipment and see if his truck
> has the routing sticker!!!  I've done that on a couple of different
> projects in the past..

I sent Tom the diagram from my 351m as a jpg attachment. AFAIK, he still ....


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