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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Thu, 04 Jan 2001 23:06:00 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 23:06:00 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: 61-79-list digest users <listar Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #3 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Wed, 03 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 003 In This Issue: Floor pan replacement update Brakes 302 V-8 swap in 1971 F-100 Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar Re: Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar Re: Brakes Re: When to give up on a project??? Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Re: brakes Re: Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Re: Brakes Re: Brakes Fwd: Re: Organization Supporting Motorists Club FTE Referral Program Re: rust my worst fear Re: rust my worst fear 79 F350 Re: 79 F350 Need to Locate 312 Y Block ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 19:30:04 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Finn <ecfinn Subject: Floor pan replacement update Hey all, I just thought I'd update you all on my floor pan replacement project. I took some pics with the replacement pieces sitting in place. I should get them welded in this Saturday when a friend is supposed to come over and weld them for me. You can see the new pics on my homepage at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/ The new pics are listed under Drivers Floor Pan Fix #1-3 and Pass Floor Pan Fix #1-2. Just thought you all might want to see me actually making progress on my bronco instead of just writing about it. :-) So how does it look? In any case, today was a good day for my Ford truck projects. Maybe I'll actually have a usable Bronco in a couple of weeks. Thanks again for the help and advice. Now I've got to get to bed since I start a new assignment for a new client at work tommorrow. Later, Eric Finn '78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress again...) http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=788 '79 F-350 4x4 "Fred" http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=1340 Personal Homepage w/ more pics http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: BanksRVA Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 23:15:34 EST Subject: Brakes Gary, You wrote, << With manual brakes you can tell if there is even one bubble in the system because they come up very hard with minimal pedal travel >> I have an 82 with manual brakes, what should they feel like? Thanks, Joe ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 21:15:21 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <kennyw Subject: 302 V-8 swap in 1971 F-100 Well, I was working to finish the installation of my 302 in my 1971 F-100 and found the clutch pivot pin on the engine does not line up with the other bracket on the frame. The steel motor mount brackets I am using are the original 6 Cyl passenger side mount and a V-8 drivers side mount both of which only hit one rear hole on the frame and one hole on the crossmember that I will have to drill out. But the clutch pivot pin is too high on the engine side. So I think I need to find 302 mounts from a late 70's truck to make everything align properly? Don you said you used mounts from an '82? I had looked at some of them in the junk yards but they mount to the frame behind the crossmember and look like they would interfere with my steering box. Anyway I need to do something different to get this going. Any suggestions? experiences? Thanks, Kenny ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 01:36:22 -0500 From: "Sean R. Kerns" <Studio Subject: Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar Okay, Got in my '79 F-250 today to go out on the town. I soon noticed that the door didn't seem to be closed. I opened it and slammed it again, but it was no better. The thing would rattle every time I hit a bump, and there was wind whistling in where usually, it doesn't. Upon closer inspection, I appear to have lost (warning - extremely technical jargon to follow) the plastic "sleeve" which fits on the round post on the B-pillar, around which the latch mechanism on the door... latches. Now, I just have the metal post, which apparently is too skinny to hold the latch firmly - thus, the rattling. I'm sure I can find a new post with sleeve somewhere, but in the mean time, can anyone recommend a good "shade tree" fix for this till I get the part? It's really annoying, esp. if I'm going down a bumpy road. Electrical tape? Polyethylene tubing? Any ideas? Thanks, Sean '79 F-250 4x4, 429-4V, C6, Cincinnati, OH -- Sean R. Kerns (aka Snake) e-mail: Studio Bloodspoint Studio - Home of Stalking Horse http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bloodspoint.com "I was drugged and left for dead in Mexico, and all I got was this stupid sig!!" ------------------------------ From: SevnD2 Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 02:36:07 EST Subject: Re: Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar I never understood why Ford made them with the plastic ring. Must be for the latch to snap together easier? I intalled some latch posts from a 72 Torino onto my 76 Explorer this past year. Perfect replacements. Probably most of the seventies Ford cars and trucks are the same. There are plenty of good ones still at the salvages around here in North Carolina. Rollie Hunt ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Brakes Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 08:41:25 -0800 There is no booster to "mush" things up so you can feel exactly what the cylinders and shoes are doing. They should be hard and should get hard suddenly, not over some distance. That doesn't mean that you can't press harder and get movement, it's all relative but you should be able to step firmly on the pedal and have it come to a stop with no mush or sponge feel to it. It should feel like you are stepping on a very stiff spring (at the bottom of the stroke). Drum brakes are more firm than disk brakes too due to the way they operate. I've never seen disk brakes without a booster due to the fact that disk brakes require considerably more pressure to work properly. Drum brakes grab easier and stop better for a short distance but very quickly get hot and "Fade" which is why all vehicles today use the disk type with power booster. I once had a 67 with a 48, GMC bus axle in the rear. Once I got all the cylinders (two per wheel) honed and cleaned up that truck had the hardest brake pedal I've ever seen and it stopped too :-) BTW, the tinyest leak in the system will make it feel mushy. It could be so small that you don't notice the leak at first but the fluid will eventually go down. This can throw you off when trying to trouble shoot the system so if you have everything right and it's still a little mushy, watch for leaks :-) I had one that didn't even leak fluid but air could be "sucked" back in through it....drove me nuts for a long time....Sometimes wheel cylinders will do this if the rubbers are old or they are scratched up inside etc...no leaks but you can't seem to get the air to stay out, progressively gets worse as you drive....BUMMER! -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Gary, > You wrote, > > << With manual brakes you can tell if there is even one bubble in > the system > because they come up very hard with minimal pedal travel >> > I have an 82 with manual brakes, what should they feel like? > Thanks, > Joe ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: When to give up on a project??? Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 08:45:27 -0800 You can make straps that look stock if you have a wire welder. Drill holes in one side only and bend the end around like a stock one to hold the tension bolt then carefully fill the holes with weld (while clamped tight of course) and you will have a solid weld that looks like a spot weld. You can do anyting with a little Ingenudity :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Would it be possible to fab your own straps from some strips of steel > yourself, and make it look stock? ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 08:47:50 -0800 We plan on it but will have to improve on our financial skills if we are to make it :-) Retirement is cool but fixed incomes stink :-( Might have to make it a shorter trip this year but hope to be there for sure :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Who's planning to attend Pigeon Forge this May? If so what is the main > hotel/motel for the FTE group? I'm making plane reservations to be able > to attend and would like to make accomodation reservations. > -- > Tim Bowman ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: brakes Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 08:52:02 -0800 You probably have a leak in one of the cylinders causing the pressure differential or one of the shoe sets is out of adjustment which will do the same thing or a wheel cylinder is sucking in some air (0r a line fitting is). The pin senses any differential in the sytem and can sometimes be very sensitive. If you are not losing fluid and the brakes are working as expected then I wouldn't worry about the light but if there is anything amis you better check it out. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > today from a good morning of driving and it felt like the brakes > were getting soft > on me and then the brake light came on. So I pull of to the side ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan Subject: Re: Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 05:55:29 -0800 Sean, Check out the auto parts store. I got new striker posts (bolt and the plastic sleve) less than $20 for 2. Cheap and a lot easier than kloodging something together. I think mine came from the HELP section and I don't think it listed a mid-70s truck. More like the passenger car line (LTDs etc) but it fit and worked quite well. Find someone behind the counter that is knowledgable and ask. Tom H > > > Okay, Got in my '79 F-250 today to go out on the town. I soon noticed > that the door didn't seem to be closed. I opened it and slammed it > again, but it was no better. The thing would rattle every time I hit a > bump, and there was wind whistling in where usually, it doesn't. > > Upon closer inspection, I appear to have lost (warning - extremely > technical jargon to follow) the plastic "sleeve" which fits > on the round > post on the B-pillar, around which the latch mechanism on the door... > latches. Now, I just have the metal post, which apparently is > too skinny > to hold the latch firmly - thus, the rattling. > > I'm sure I can find a new post with sleeve somewhere, but in the mean > time, can anyone recommend a good "shade tree" fix for this till I get > the part? It's really annoying, esp. if I'm going down a bumpy road. > Electrical tape? Polyethylene tubing? Any ideas? > > Thanks, > > Sean > > '79 F-250 4x4, 429-4V, C6, Cincinnati, OH > > -- > Sean R. Kerns (aka Snake) > e-mail: Studio > Bloodspoint Studio - Home of Stalking Horse > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bloodspoint.com > "I was drugged and left for dead in Mexico, > and all I got was this stupid sig!!" > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 08:57:29 -0500 From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge 2001 How is the weather that of year for camping. Virgil > We plan on it but will have to improve on our financial skills if we are > to > make it :-) Retirement is cool but fixed incomes stink :-( Might have to > make it a shorter trip this year but hope to be there for sure :-) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 09:28:14 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo Subject: Re: Brakes GaryBBB wrote: > > There is no booster to "mush" things up so you can feel exactly what the > cylinders and shoes are doing. They should be hard and should get hard > suddenly, not over some distance. That doesn't mean that you can't press > harder and get movement, it's all relative but you should be able to step > firmly on the pedal and have it come to a stop with no mush or sponge feel > to it. It should feel like you are stepping on a very stiff spring (at the > bottom of the stroke). > > Drum brakes are more firm than disk brakes too due to the way they operate. > I've never seen disk brakes without a booster due to the fact that disk > brakes require considerably more pressure to work properly. My parents 78 granda (bought new) had front disk manual brakes. My dad was a cheap dude!!! :-) OX -- 78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift (27 mud), never 79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it). 79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 19.3 86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 09:06:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Those little plastic thingies on the B-pillar From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone > I never understood why Ford made them with the plastic ring. Must be for the > latch to snap together easier? Probably cheaper and maybe quieter operation. -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Jason Derra" <derrar Subject: Re: Brakes Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 09:10:23 -0800 > I've never seen disk brakes without a booster due to the fact that disk > brakes require considerably more pressure to work properly. I'm running non power Chev discs on my Bronco. The pedal effort isn't much different from the drum brakes that were on there. It stops 100% better than the brand new (wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, hoses) drum brake system it replaced. Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke '77 F150 4WD 429 "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 12:43:16 -0500 From: Ted Wnorowski <theodore Subject: Fwd: Re: Organization Supporting Motorists Here is another link http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://enjoythedrive.com/san/ . >>I have been trying to remember the name of the >>organization that is working to get some sense into >>the smog laws, prevent unnecessary taking of old cars >>off the road, get rid of photo-radar, protect >>the rights to own and drive our older vehicles, and >>finally found it. They probably have resources to >>help with the persistent neighbor trying to rid the >>neighborhood of your restoration projects, even though >>they are out of out of site or covered. > Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wnorowski.com/ mailto:theodore ' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed ' 63 F-100 parts truck ' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 16:50:13 -0500 From: Ken Payne <kpayne Subject: Club FTE Referral Program Club FTE is off to a fantastic start. Club Memberships will be setup this weekend and membership cards mailed out on Monday along with complete information on setting up and using your membership accounts. Those with t-shirts in their membership orders have already had the t-shirts shipped. Since the club is off to a good start, we've decided to give an added benefit for club members! For each person a club member refers to Club FTE that signs up you'll receive a $5 credit in the FTE store! The FTE store is in the process of adding a ton of new items for new and older trucks next week so this will be of great benefit to active recruiters. There is a $100 limit to credits. This does not mean you can't get more than $100 in credits. It simply means you have to use your $100 of credit before you can earn more. The sign-up form has a place for referring members. The club pages can be found at: <a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.clubfte.com">www.clubfte.com</a> Ken Payne Ford Truck Enthusiasts Admin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 18:55:31 -0500 From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 Subject: Re: rust my worst fear Hello All, Thank you for the information and assistance. I ended up doing the following: I soaked the thing down with ATF because that was the thinnest oil I had at the time. I then went to my friends hardware store and bought the finest scotch bright pads he had (white ones) 6"x 9" and proceeded to rub lightly. They did not scratch the surface of the journals at all. In fact I was amazed at how well they came out. On the journal surface there are a few slight round stains a few with the tinniest dot in the middle which is what I assume to be a pit. It is extremely small even with a magnifying glass. I am truly grateful and will make sure to grease everything up well the next time. I am thinking about dissolving vaseline in wd 40 and using a spray bottle and soaking things thoroughly. I can now sleep more easily great 1UB cranks are getting hard to find and quite costly when found. I miked all the journals and they are in fine shape. Thanks Again Bill At 10:08 AM 12/27/00 -0500, you wrote: >Folks, > >To my horror, last night, I went to my DRY storage to get my crankshaft ------------------------------ From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon Subject: Re: rust my worst fear Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 17:09:38 -0700 Don't know if this is true- but I've been told that WD40 has water in it, and is therefore not a good choice as a rust inhibitor. Can anyone confirm/refute this myth? -----Original Message----- From: William D. Poudrier I am thinking about dissolving vaseline in wd 40 and using a spray bottle and soaking things thoroughly. ------------------------------ From: "jake benson" <jakebens Subject: 79 F350 Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 17:35:19 -0600 Hello, I am thinking about looking at a truck for sale. A 1979 F350 4WD I would like a couple of opinions on this truck. It has 460 motor, 5 speed out of a 1988 and transfer case out of 1988 ford. The bed is a metal flatbed and it hasn't been driven in about three years. That is all I know . They want around $2000 for the truck, What does everyone think. Jake South Dakota 1969 F250 1971 F150 4x4 1972 F250 4x4 1997 F150 4x4 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:15:07 -0600 (CST) From: Don Harby <harby Subject: Re: 79 F350 Sounds great except for the aluminum transfer case. On Thu, 4 Jan 2001, jake benson wrote: > > Hello, > I am thinking about looking at a truck for sale. A 1979 F350 4WD I would > like a couple of opinions on this truck. It has 460 motor, 5 speed out of a > 1988 and transfer case out of 1988 ford. The bed is a metal flatbed and it > hasn't been driven in about three years. > That is all I know . They want around $2000 for the truck, What does > everyone think. > > Jake > South Dakota > 1969 F250 > 1971 F150 4x4 > 1972 F250 4x4 > 1997 F150 4x4 > > ------------------------------ From: SevnD2 Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:03:18 EST Subject: Need to Locate 312 Y Block I need to locate a 312 Y block for someone who doesn't have access to the web. What they need is just a good block, but a whole engine isn't out of the question. Just e-mail me privately with information. .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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