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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Tue, 30 Jan 2001 12:54:43 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 12:54:43 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #29 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== Serious help restoring and maintaining your Ford truck! ---------------------------------------------------------- Check out the following items in our online store: 1961-1979 Factory Service (Shop) Manuals on CD-ROM 1961-1967 Factory Service (Shop) Manuals (Printed) 1963-1967 Wiring Diagrams 1957-1972 Ford Truck Illustrated Facts and Features manuals 1963-1967 Ford factory Engine Assembly Manuals 1961-1970 Ford Truck Body, Trim and Interior Assembly/Disassembly manuals <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/"> http://www.motorhaven.com/</a> ---------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 29 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 029 In This Issue: Re: snow plow wiring Re: Won't start No power... no Ford trucks Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc 240 to 300 interchange question Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc Vacuum diagram Manual steering gearbox replacement Re: 240 to 300 interchange question 351c dizzy question Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement ENGINE wont start Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY Re: 240 to 300 interchange question Re: Reno? Re: Vacuum diagram Re: 240 to 300 interchange question Re: Won't start Re: Won't start haven't posted ENGINE WONT START Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc Re: ENGINE WONT START Re: 351c dizzy question Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement Re: ENGINE WONT START Re: Engine won't start D60 brakes Re: ENGINE WONT START ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: snow plow wiring Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 15:07:01 -0800 I'm running a single battery with no problems. Not sure about ground or hot but I think the wire going from the control to the solenoid is hot and the solenoid is grounded just like the start relay on a ford (in fact I think mine is a ford start relay, not sure). The pump motor may have a separate ground wire though, can't picture it right now but all grounds can be run to the frame or body as long as you have good ground straps to them. Control solenoids seem to have 2 wires too as I recall. I made the mistake of running the power to the control switches from a hot lead instead of a "switched" lead so if you forget and leave it in a position that is drawing power it will run the battery down if you walk away from it and leave it that way. The joy stick type may not have that problem since it is probably spring loaded to center. I don't think you will be likely to tax the battery if you don't get carried away with running the blade up and down for no reason. Normal plowing will probably keep it charged up pretty well. I haven't noticed any battery problems so far. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > -----Original Message----- > From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of FRITZ DOWE
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 1:20 PM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] snow plow wiring > > > > Hello everyone. I just picked up a Western snowplow for one of > my '79 Ford > trucks, and was hoping someone on the list also had one so I could get a > couple of questions answered. I will only be plowing about 3 > driveways with > it, so it will not be an all day affair. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Won't start Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 15:11:17 -0800 Yeah, I have one in the bird that has been dying every time I park it and was looking for the drain but then realized that it is the original battery (94) so I guess it's time for a new one :-) Walked into the garage last night (charger on 10 amps) and it reeked of acid smell but no acid was leaking...and battery was hot...got to be telling me something, eh? :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Actualy it is very possible for a bad battery to show full charge (12V or > more) with no load. That's why they sell battery testers that will put a > load on the battery. > Tom H. ------------------------------ From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:29:53 -0500 Subject: No power... no Ford trucks We're gonna be facing this same issue here in Indiana I fear, for not being "able" to build, back when we needed to. Hopefully the building "climate" has changed, so we can get on with it. Then I can keep working, so I can finish my 64 F-100. (FTE content) Later, Phil (23 yrs. of converting coal into something we can't even see) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------- > But, you cannot build any new power plants, no matter what type they > are. Remember they cause global warming. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------- > Course if PG&E had built another power station or two in the last 24 years..... ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ From: "John Watson" <johnw illawarramercury.com>
Subject: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:29:18 +1100 I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts from my 81 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner ' and cannot source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a screwdriver and hammer with no success. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the nuts off ??? Thanks John > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:47:47 -0800 From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc John Watson wrote: > I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts from my 81 > 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner ' and cannot > source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a > screwdriver and hammer with no success. Does anyone have any ideas on how > to get the nuts off ??? > Most people will frown on this and maybe throw hammers at me but anyways ... use a chisel to make a notch near one corner of the nut. Then angle the chisel ... well, you know what to do. I've done this many times (when I didn't have time to drive 30 miles for the proper spanner) with no problems. Good luck, Greg ------------------------------ From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 240 to 300 interchange question Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:29:53 -0800 Hi folks, I just got my 1969 F100 last week. I am thinking of putting in a 300 inline 6 in place of the 240. Can I use the same valve covers, water pump, pulleys, brackets and oil sump with the 300? Thanks. Ben ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:35:50 -0800 Get the socket. It's sold in auto shops or rentable at rent-all places. It's virtually impossible to do otherwise as you've already found out. /// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\ ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Watson" <johnw illawarramercury.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 3:29 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco > > I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts from my 81 > 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner ' and cannot > source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a > screwdriver and hammer with no success. Does anyone have any ideas on how > to get the nuts off ??? ------------------------------ From: "mail.in-tch.com" <tet2met in-tch.com>
Subject: Vacuum diagram Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:14:00 -0800 I need a vacuum diagram for my 79 F150 400HP automatic. Have not been able to find one. The factory manual doesn't even have one. Everything refers me to the sticker under the hood that hasn't been there for years. Does anyone have a suggestion? Tom ------------------------------ From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Manual steering gearbox replacement Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:29:53 -0800 The first thing I want to do with my "new" 1969 F100 is to replace the rusted steering gearbox. This is a manual steering unit. Today I went to Kragen Auto Parts and they sold me one that says on the box "power steering gear". The part was rebuilt by Cardone and the part number is 27-7504/2751. The guys at Kragen insisted that this part will work with a manual steering system. Does anyone else have experience replacing their steering gear and used this part? I want to keep the truck as stock as possible so I don't want to convert to power steering. Thanks! Ben ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:32:44 EST Subject: Re: 240 to 300 interchange question Yup, sure can. Gona put in a stock 300, or turn it into a wild stumper? Got some good ideas on doin that if your interested. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:40:14 EST Subject: 351c dizzy question Hey everybody, got a slightly off topic question, but it can be applied to a Ford truck rather easily, so here goes. Im runnin a 351c in my 71 Mustang, and recently converted to a duraspark unit I salvaged from a 78 f-250 w 400. Would I be better off running a 460 dizzy for the difference in mech adavance, or is the one for the 400 more suited to my needs? It runs great, real smooth, but I figure I wouldn't notice it being under par. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Christopher Worley" <cworley76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 03:54:35 I have a manual box that came off of my '67 it is yours if you want it, I am converting to power. Let me know off list. Chris Worley '67 F100 >From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Manual steering gearbox replacement >Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:29:53 -0800 > > >The first thing I want to do with my "new" 1969 F100 is to replace the >rusted steering gearbox. This is a manual steering unit. > >Today I went to Kragen Auto Parts and they sold me one that says on >the box "power steering gear". The part was rebuilt by Cardone and the >part number is 27-7504/2751. The guys at Kragen insisted that this >part will work with a manual steering system. > >Does anyone else have experience replacing their steering gear and >used this part? > >I want to keep the truck as stock as possible so I don't want to >convert to power steering. > >Thanks! > >Ben > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ From: "Daniel Beiers" <dbeiers rmpprestress.com>
Subject: Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:10:42 -0600 Ben, if it has threaded inputs for hoses, I would guess it will not work without a pump. I believe the P.S. gear is an open lubrication system, i.e. it uses the fluid that passes through it to lubricate the parts. manual boxes are a sealed system from what I can tell, you can add etc but fluid does not pass in and out. just thinking out loud here. although, while you have it you should just get a pump and a new engine mount and bolt that thing in. I did it and it was easy. unfortunately, I just gave my old manual box to the junkyard this morning. good luck Dan 67 F-100 w/ power steering ----- Original Message ----- From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 8:29 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Manual steering gearbox replacement > > The first thing I want to do with my "new" 1969 F100 is to replace the > rusted steering gearbox. This is a manual steering unit. > > Today I went to Kragen Auto Parts and they sold me one that says on > the box "power steering gear". The part was rebuilt by Cardone and the > part number is 27-7504/2751. The guys at Kragen insisted that this > part will work with a manual steering system. > > Does anyone else have experience replacing their steering gear and > used this part? > > I want to keep the truck as stock as possible so I don't want to > convert to power steering. > > Thanks! > > Ben > > ------------------------------ From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: ENGINE wont start Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:33:44 -0500 From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:20:25 -0500 You may have fried the starter trying to start it. I am currently using the distributor that came with the 460, so I doubt that will be a problem. I double checked all the plugs and wires, and everything is connected right. New lines don't necessarily mean fuel is getting through. I'd still make sure you are getting plenty of juice at the carb the old fashioned way by pulling the line and running it into a can. Fuel delivery is what I was beginning to think was my problem. I put about 1/2 can of starter fluid into the carb, a little at a time. At first, I got absolutely nothing. As I got more in there, the engine started to sound like it was going to start, but was running out of juice The other thing that a lot of people had mentioned was the timing. The distributor hasn't been out or moved since the last time the engine ran Eric Tobolski Eric To break it down in its most simplistic terms, for any engine to START you need Fuel, Fire and Timing. I f you have these three things, it HAS to start. I dont care if it's the latest <gasoline> engine from any manufacturer with all the electronic gadgets in the world applied, the same rules apply. You will read a hundred different ways from a hundred different people on how and what to check first, that is, which various circuits are at fault based on symptoms given. I've been doing this for many years and know what works best for me. My method of trouble shooting is to cut a circuit in half and go from there. IE: Fire.. Pull the coil wire, hold it about 1/4 inch from block, fire?, blue fire, yellow fire, no fire? None, well in a point type ignition, check for voltage at the coil, cut the circuit in half every time, it will save time but you have to know how a circuit works first in able to do this effectivly. Trouble shooting from A-Z takes too much time when you have to make a living doing this, probably the same no matter what line of work your in. <When I was a mechanic, flat rate could suck sometimes ,Time=Money>. Fuel: Pump the linkage at the carb, look down the venturi, any fuel squirting out? No, go from there. Have fuel, have decent spark, now, whats left..Timing. There are two types of timing, Cam and Spark. All things being equal, with the age\miles on our trucks, spark timing probably didn't change much since the last time your truck was running, so check the cam timing first. Put the motor on TDC and check it, say it's right on. Now check your dizzy rotor position, pointing at # 1, yes or no. Ok, you have FFT, now check the plugs, (figure the odds of ALL 8 plug wires being THAT bad:) Are they flooded? You can take a propane torch and dry them but I'd replace em for the .99 cents a piece they cost at Pep boy's for genuine Motorcraft. NOBODY cleans plugs anymore due to the labor costs verse price of new plugs...errr except somebody in Michigan that owns a spark plug cleaner:) (Gary, what ya think a museum would pay for that collectors item:)) Notice I didnt go into detail on what to do for each step that you answered NO to. Those answers can be as varied as the people on this list. But the problem is the problem no matter how you find it. Time is money to me and my boss and this method works for ME. FFT, remember it, it will help you with questions to this list or anybody else you are describing a No Start problem to. Now this was written as a generalization on trouble shooting so I hope nobody holds me to details left out, like, what if the motor has no compression, motor wont turn over, etc, there is a proceedure for everything. Off the soap box now. Rich ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:38:55 -0500 I have a 302 in my garage that is all torn down & the block has been tanked (about 3 yrs. ago) It is out of a 79 F-150. It is a 2V version,but the funniest thing that I've ever seen is that it has an Aluminum Factory 2V intake. Has anyone else ever seen one of these ?? -----Original Message----- From: WEDIVE247 aol.com <WEDIVE247 aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, January 28, 2001 11:39 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY >In a message dated 1/27/2001 2:23:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, >trendsetter4life yahoo.com writes:
> > >> Ok i have to ask the question since i have to many parts sitting around the >> house i >> need to off is it worth my time to try and sell my o.e single barrel carb >> and intake >> been of the truck about 1 year after it was bought back in 79. Also have >> O.E. hub >> caps and some other stuff just wondered if it was worth my time thanks for >> any input >> >> > >I think as long as you can supply a picture with it your chances of selling >your goods is pretty good . > >Steve 64 F100 351ci > > > > ------------------------------ From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 240 to 300 interchange question Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:44:54 -0800 On Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:32:44 EST, you wrote: % %Yup, sure can. Gona put in a stock 300, or turn it into a wild stumper? Got %some good ideas on doin that if your interested. Probably start with stock, then put in Offy intake & carb and Dynomax headers. Ben ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Reno? Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:48:06 -0500 Darn shuttles drivers anyhow !!!! They must not have a sense of adventure. They must not have the ability to recognize a diamond in the rough !!! LOL LOL -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 10:14 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Reno? > > > >scott wrote: >> >> >>How about Reno? What's the FTE situation there...Any >> >>Reno-ites(Renoians?) online...? >> >> Yes,and Renoite is correct. > <snip> >> There are enough people here alredy tho...so stay home :) > >You don't mind if I stop in 2 or 3 times a year to leave my money in >those slot machines, do you...? Seems to keep your taxes down... > >FTE content--the last couple of times I visited, I saw a Unibody parked >in a lot (wrecking yard? shop?) just SW of the freeway on the way to >the airport...I couldn't get the damn shuttle driver to pull over, >though... > > > >-- >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm > ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum diagram Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:54:05 -0500 Do any of your buddies have any old Chiltons manuals that they will let you borrow ?? -----Original Message----- From: mail.in-tch.com <tet2met in-tch.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 9:30 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Vacuum diagram > >I need a vacuum diagram for my 79 F150 400HP automatic. Have not been able >to find one. The factory manual doesn't even have one. Everything refers me >to the sticker under the hood that hasn't been there for years. Does anyone >have a suggestion? > >Tom > > > ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 240 to 300 interchange question Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:57:11 -0500 Clifford performance can help you out for high performance parts for your 300 -6 also,but they are kind of expensive on some of their stuff. -----Original Message----- From: JUMPINFORD aol.com <JUMPINFORD aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 9:45 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 240 to 300 interchange question > >Yup, sure can. Gona put in a stock 300, or turn it into a wild stumper? Got >some good ideas on doin that if your interested. > >Darrell & Tweety > ------------------------------ From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Won't start Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:31:12 -0500 Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:44:44 -0600 Subject: Re: Won't start From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Actualy it is very possible for a bad battery to show full charge (12V or more) with no load. That's why they sell battery testers that will put a load on the battery. Simply put Voltage = pressure and Amps = volume of flow. Like in hydraulics (or plumbing) if you flow more current than your source can supply pressure drops. It is therefore possible for a battery to show full voltage (pressure) at zero amps (no flow). Also it is common for a battery just comming of a charger to show high voltage and then drop a short while later. I AGREEEE And in addition, the 13.8 or 14.4 you read when the engine is running is the alternator output. A six cell lead-acid battery can not output more than 12 volts. -- John > jlagrone ford-trucks.com
I agree with the first sentence and dissagree with the last. If a battery cannot show a a static charge of AROUND 12.5 volts dc, it needs charged or its bad. Believe me when I say I have checked a battery or two. I didnt believe it when Gould explained it to me years ago either, but experience could not prove them wrong either. I know I'll be flogged from the list for this, but any battery I ever checked that was 12v or less needed charging or was bad. Batteries have an average life span of 5 years. If you take a 5 year old battery and drain it down, odds are, it aint comming back to but around 15% of it's CCA capacity. I have a 4 yr old Diehard Gold in my truck, Wife left the lights on last week. I almost went and bought another before I charged it. Well it still works!! hmmm Like I said, average. 72 months? Pep Boy's? Can ya spell lost leader sales? <I can explain this> Rich ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:29:03 EST Subject: Re: Won't start I swear by Optimas. Have had the same one in an F-600 for 6 years that used to get a new interstate yearly. Now an interstate is a great battery, and still have a few in some of the family cars that are goin on the same age. This is very good for a desert battery. But they are slowly bein replaced with Optimas. The F-600 is proof positive for me, if that optima can handle the vibrations that well, and still manage to be run down over a weekend (just did it, darn domelight) and come right back on a charge, well Im sure it can take anything you can throw at it. Even bullets, or so they say. Id rather not find out with my battery.... Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: thurlow <don.thurlow mail1.greenbaynet.com>
Subject: haven't posted Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:33:27 -0600 (CST) Well I haven't posted in awhile.. I really haven't been on the computer all that much. (Few thousand emails later, finally get to reply/post). I kinda became a trader. I bought a jeep (waits for insults). I'm just rebuilding it to beat the heck out of it and sell so i can buy a bigger and better ford. I had a 79 f-250 that well got smashed so i had to turn my back and go for this jeep deal i couldn't turn down. My truck went to a good cause. The local 4x4 shop bought it and is using parts of it in a truck that he plans to run in the next tough truck challenge that four wheeler magazine hosts. So look for a red ford f-250 (My axles are in it). It's got 44's on it too :). Well just had to post and see how everything was going. -Don Thurlow ------------------------------ From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: ENGINE WONT START Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 01:49:22 -0500 > Went right over my head, sorry....should have mentioned that on older fords > there are several things that go wrong in the wiring. Number one and most > common is the black plugs that connect the coil, dizzy and module in dura > spark systems. Try unplugging them and plugging them back in several times > to clean off the terminals. Also look at the green and red wires that go to > the coil for possible breaks or to ensure that the spade receiver has not > been pushed up when installing the cap on the coil. Old wires will get pin > holes in the insulation and corrode from the inside leaving no sign but a > little green spot on the insulation where the green copper oxide is bleeding > through indicating a bad spot in the wire. These are the two most common > failures on old trucks that I've run into. > > -- > Happily Retired (but broke) > Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary Back to the old troubleshooting thang again :) Remember, FFT. Lets assume that your not getting fire as Gary is saying. Now spend your time opening up your wiring harnes performing a visual check of your wiring connected from your Duraspark module to your coil. If you see something GREAT! Ya probably found the problem. What if ya checked the coil wire first and ya had good fire? Ya just wasted time and effort for nothing, let alone cut into your wiring harnes for nothing. One of the oldest rules of trouble shooting is this "show me where you been, I'll show you the problem". As Gary said, If you just replaced the cap or coil, and it ran before, look there first. We all have assumptions, one of mine is this as an example, for an old ford any way, if the motor dies after starting and running, while driving down the road it suddenly dies, no spits and sputters. After a minute or two it starts right back up. It repeats this process over and over but the time it takes to re-start the motor increases to several minutes. Think about it, its probably not fuel related due to the sudden cut off. Probably not a (bad green wire) due to the repeatability of the problem. Pull the Duraspark unit and get it tested <Free at most part stores anymore, read pep boy's here> Again, I thought the original poster could not get his engine started and he had no clues as to what to look for. We can all play the "bet ya never saw this problem" or "it could be this because I seen it" game. Lord knows I have a bunch of them myself. 90% of the time list member problems are basic to us, difficult to them, for now anyway. They will be teaching us before long. Look at Wish :) Now we can go into minor details, or even racing information for that matter. I love REAL expereince (read Azzi, Ox, Gary, Wish and many others!) But this "I have no expereince in that area, I never seen that rearend before, never this or that but this is what I "think" is like the blind leading the blind. Sorry Wife saw this and made me get off my second soapbox Rich Lord, I am gonna hate my Email tommorrow:) > > The other thing that a lot of people had mentioned was the timing. The > > distributor hasn't been out or moved since the last time the > > engine ran. I > > will check the timing anyway since that is what most people have suggested > > to me. Is it possible that the timing could have been changed without > > moving anything? The more I think about everything that happened while > > trying to start the truck, I think it is more likely to be a fuel problem, > > but this is still easy enough to check. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:36:38 -0800 Almost any autoparts store can get one overnight if they don't already have it on the shelf. I got the rear nuts off my E-300 van many times with a punch but the nut is totally trashed from doning this. If you don't need the truck right away, get the tool and do it right. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > > 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner > ' and cannot > > source one from anywhere, ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:49:09 -0800 I can tell you that I had a bad green wire and the engine did as you say, ran, quit, ran quit then finally quit and stayed quit. I also had a coil mount come loose and guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run "intermittantly" and drive you crazy. All the things I mentioned take all of 2 minutes to check out and could save you a lot of "professional" trouble shooting by the book. I always look at the simple stuff first, even if the book doesn't tell me too.....:-) BTW, I didn't always have this philosophy....I once took the timing cover off because I just knew it was the timing chain since nothing else seemed to be wrong.......you will never guess so I will tell you it was those STUPID BLACK PLUGS AGAIN!!! I'd plug them in and get fire then try to start it and the fire went away....over and over and over again till I was convinced this could not be the problem. Now I have a multimeter so I don't have to guess and it's the very first place I look for trouble, always :-) It's not always the problem but it only takes a few seconds to check it out :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > have no expereince in that area, I never seen that rearend before, never > this or that but this is what I "think" is like the blind leading > the blind. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 351c dizzy question Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:51:01 -0800 I would stick with one closer to the cubes you have. The 460 is a whole nuther smoke :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Would I be better off running a 460 dizzy for the difference in mech > adavance, or is the one for the 400 more suited to my needs? It > runs great, > real smooth, but I figure I wouldn't notice it being under par. ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 15:08:20 GMT Subject: Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement > >The first thing I want to do with my "new" 1969 F100 is to replace the >rusted steering gearbox. This is a manual steering unit. > One thing you didn't mention was if this was 4x4 or 4x2 application. I notice mostly 4x2 guys forget to post it, but on the off chance that it is a 4x4, the manual and P/S boxes for 73-75 are likely the same because it was an odd "ram assisted" style of power steering. I wouldn't be surprised if the earlier 4x4's used the same box with their manual setup. Of course if you've got a 4x2 this is completely out the window. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:45:12 -0800 From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START GaryBBB wrote: guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the > bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run "intermittantly" and > drive you crazy. How far back does this go? I mean, specifically, does it apply to the Cleveland in my truck? I have been having problems and narrowed it down to the coil not firing, but this could shed new light...I have been looking at after market "Hotter" coils... -- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm ------------------------------ From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 23:03:44 -0500 > 1/2 can of starter fluid into the carb, a little at a time. > At first, I got absolutely nothing. As I got more in there, > the engine started to sound like it was going to start, but > was running out of juice. The fuel pump that was on the > engine had three places to connect a line to it. I am > assuming that this was because it had dual tanks. I > replaced it with one that only had one inlet and one outlet. No, sir ... that three connector fuel pump is a "dual action" pump that pumps both on the upstroke and downstroke, and the third connector is a fuel return for the extra fuel to go back to the tank if it isnt needed in the carb. My dad had a Merc with a 460/4V and dual action fuel pump ... it needed it in order to supply that huge engine with enough gas to run properly while pulling around that much weight. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:56:23 -0600 From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: D60 brakes Hey, all. Would someone mind refreshing me on the procedure of getting in and out of the rear brakes on a '67 Dana 60 (including torque specs). I have ordered a CD manual from Ken, and spare tab washers from a mail order place. I procured a 2-9/16" socket from KD tools. I could also use a source for the gasket behind the axle flange. Also, I am missing the ID tag on the axle. That makes things a little difficult. The truck is a camper special, which I believe has wider brake shoes. Can anyone verify? Are the rear brake cylinders special or different from the run of the mill F250? Thanks, Doss Halsey '67 F250 Camper Special ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:52:34 -0800 All of the metal can ones that are in a braket with a single bolt holding it to the engine AFAIK. The newer ones are plastic and have some other way to ground them. If the black rubber plugs are bad it will do that too. Old truck wiring is the biggest pain to trouble shoot because there are so many places it can be bad :-( I just pulled the whole tail light wire harness of a truck to locate the bad spot and found exactly what I expected, rotted wire inside the insulation. The only clue was the fact that the wire bent a little too easily and sharply in that spot :-) When I put it back in I did a much neater job than the last yahooooo :-) .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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