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Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 12:54:43 -0500 (EST)
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To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #29
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 29 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 029

In This Issue:
Re: snow plow wiring
Re: Won't start
No power... no Ford trucks
Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco
Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
240 to 300 interchange question
Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Vacuum diagram
Manual steering gearbox replacement
Re: 240 to 300 interchange question
351c dizzy question
Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement
Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement
ENGINE wont start
Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Re: 240 to 300 interchange question
Re: Reno?
Re: Vacuum diagram
Re: 240 to 300 interchange question
Re: Won't start
Re: Won't start
haven't posted
ENGINE WONT START
Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Re: ENGINE WONT START
Re: 351c dizzy question
Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement
Re: ENGINE WONT START
Re: Engine won't start
D60 brakes
Re: ENGINE WONT START

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: snow plow wiring
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 15:07:01 -0800


I'm running a single battery with no problems.  Not sure about ground or hot
but I think the wire going from the control to the solenoid is hot and the
solenoid is grounded just like the start relay on a ford (in fact I think
mine is a ford start relay, not sure).  The pump motor may have a separate
ground wire though, can't picture it right now but all grounds can be run to
the frame or body as long as you have good ground straps to them.  Control
solenoids seem to have 2 wires too as I recall.  I made the mistake of
running the power to the control switches from a hot lead instead of a
"switched" lead so if you forget and leave it in a position that is drawing
power it will run the battery down if you walk away from it and leave it
that way.  The joy stick type may not have that problem since it is probably
spring loaded to center.

I don't think you will be likely to tax the battery if you don't get carried
away with running the blade up and down for no reason.  Normal plowing will
probably keep it charged up pretty well.  I haven't noticed any battery
problems so far.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--


> -----Original Message-----
> From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of FRITZ DOWE
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 1:20 PM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] snow plow wiring
>
>
>
> Hello everyone.  I just picked up a Western snowplow for one of
> my '79 Ford
> trucks, and was hoping someone on the list also had one so I could get a
> couple of questions answered.  I will only be plowing about 3
> driveways with
> it, so it will not be an all day affair.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Won't start
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 15:11:17 -0800


Yeah, I have one in the bird that has been dying every time I park it and
was looking for the drain but then realized that it is the original battery
(94) so I guess it's time for a new one :-)  Walked into the garage last
night (charger on 10 amps) and it reeked of acid smell but no acid was
leaking...and battery was hot...got to be telling me something, eh? :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Actualy it is very possible for a bad battery to show full charge (12V or
> more) with no load.  That's why they sell battery testers that will put a
> load on the battery.

> Tom H.


------------------------------

From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:29:53 -0500
Subject: No power... no Ford trucks


We're gonna be facing this same issue here in Indiana I fear, for not
being "able" to build, back when we needed to. Hopefully the building
"climate" has changed, so we can get on with it. Then I can keep working,
so I can finish my 64 F-100. (FTE content)
Later, Phil (23 yrs. of converting coal into something we can't even
see)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------
> But, you cannot build any new power plants, no matter what type they
> are.   Remember they cause global warming.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
> Course if PG&E had built another power station or two in the last 24
years.....

________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

From: "John Watson" <johnw illawarramercury.com>
Subject: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:29:18 +1100


I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts from my 81
4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner ' and cannot
source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a
screwdriver and hammer with no success.  Does anyone have any ideas on how
to get the nuts off ???



Thanks

John

>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:47:47 -0800
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc




John Watson wrote:

> I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts from my 81
> 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner ' and cannot
> source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a
> screwdriver and hammer with no success.  Does anyone have any ideas on how
> to get the nuts off ???
>

Most people will frown on this and maybe throw hammers at me but anyways ... use
a chisel to make a notch near one corner of the nut. Then angle the chisel ...
well, you know what to do. I've done this many times (when I didn't have time to
drive 30 miles for the proper spanner) with no problems.

Good luck,
Greg


------------------------------

From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 240 to 300 interchange question
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:29:53 -0800


Hi folks, I just got my 1969 F100 last week.

I am thinking of putting in a 300 inline 6 in place of the 240.

Can I use the same valve covers, water pump, pulleys, brackets and oil
sump with the 300?

Thanks.

Ben

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 17:35:50 -0800

Get the socket. It's sold in auto shops or rentable at rent-all places. It's
virtually impossible to do otherwise as you've already found out.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Watson" <johnw illawarramercury.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 3:29 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronco


>
> I am not having any luck removing the front wheel bearing nuts from my 81
> 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner ' and
cannot
> source one from anywhere, I have had to try and tap it round with a
> screwdriver and hammer with no success.  Does anyone have any ideas on how
> to get the nuts off ???




------------------------------

From: "mail.in-tch.com" <tet2met in-tch.com>
Subject: Vacuum diagram
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 19:14:00 -0800


I need a vacuum diagram for my 79 F150 400HP automatic. Have not been able
to find one. The factory manual doesn't even have one. Everything refers me
to the sticker under the hood that hasn't been there for years. Does anyone
have a suggestion?

Tom


------------------------------

From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Manual steering gearbox replacement
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:29:53 -0800


The first thing I want to do with my "new" 1969 F100 is to replace the
rusted steering gearbox. This is a manual steering unit.

Today I went to Kragen Auto Parts and they sold me one that says on
the box "power steering gear". The part was rebuilt by Cardone and the
part number is 27-7504/2751. The guys at Kragen insisted that this
part will work with a manual steering system.

Does anyone else have experience replacing their steering gear and
used this part?

I want to keep the truck as stock as possible so I don't want to
convert to power steering.

Thanks!

Ben

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:32:44 EST
Subject: Re: 240 to 300 interchange question


Yup, sure can.  Gona put in a stock 300, or turn it into a wild stumper?  Got
some good ideas on doin that if your interested.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:40:14 EST
Subject: 351c dizzy question


Hey everybody, got a slightly off topic question, but it can be applied to a
Ford truck rather easily, so here goes.  Im runnin a 351c in my 71 Mustang,
and recently converted to a duraspark unit I salvaged from a 78 f-250 w 400.
Would I be better off running a 460 dizzy for the difference in mech
adavance, or is the one for the 400 more suited to my needs?  It runs great,
real smooth, but I figure I wouldn't notice it being under par.  Any advice
on this is greatly appreciated.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" <cworley76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 03:54:35


I have a manual box that came off of my '67 it is yours if you want it, I am
converting to power.  Let me know off list.


Chris Worley
'67 F100

>From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Manual steering gearbox replacement
>Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:29:53 -0800
>
>
>The first thing I want to do with my "new" 1969 F100 is to replace the
>rusted steering gearbox. This is a manual steering unit.
>
>Today I went to Kragen Auto Parts and they sold me one that says on
>the box "power steering gear". The part was rebuilt by Cardone and the
>part number is 27-7504/2751. The guys at Kragen insisted that this
>part will work with a manual steering system.
>
>Does anyone else have experience replacing their steering gear and
>used this part?
>
>I want to keep the truck as stock as possible so I don't want to
>convert to power steering.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Ben
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "Daniel Beiers" <dbeiers rmpprestress.com>
Subject: Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:10:42 -0600


Ben,
if it has threaded inputs for hoses, I would guess it will not work without
a pump. I believe the P.S. gear is an open lubrication system, i.e. it uses
the fluid that passes through it to lubricate the parts. manual boxes are a
sealed system from what I can tell, you can add etc but fluid does not pass
in and out.  just thinking out loud here.

although,
while you have it  you should just get a pump and a new engine mount and
bolt that thing in.  I did it and it was easy.  unfortunately,  I just gave
my old manual box to the junkyard this morning.

good luck

Dan
67 F-100 w/ power steering

----- Original Message -----
From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 8:29 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Manual steering gearbox replacement


>
> The first thing I want to do with my "new" 1969 F100 is to replace the
> rusted steering gearbox. This is a manual steering unit.
>
> Today I went to Kragen Auto Parts and they sold me one that says on
> the box "power steering gear". The part was rebuilt by Cardone and the
> part number is 27-7504/2751. The guys at Kragen insisted that this
> part will work with a manual steering system.
>
> Does anyone else have experience replacing their steering gear and
> used this part?
>
> I want to keep the truck as stock as possible so I don't want to
> convert to power steering.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ben
>
>


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: ENGINE wont start
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:33:44 -0500






From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:20:25 -0500

 You may have fried the starter trying to start it.

 I am currently using the distributor that came with the 460, so I doubt
that will be a problem.  I double checked all the plugs and wires, and
everything is connected right.

New lines don't necessarily mean fuel is getting through.  I'd still make
sure you are getting plenty of
juice at the carb the old fashioned way by pulling the line and running it
into a can.

 Fuel delivery is what I was beginning to think was my problem.  I put
about
1/2 can of starter fluid into the carb, a little at a time.  At first, I
got  absolutely nothing.  As I got more in there, the engine started to
sound
 like it was going to start, but was running out of juice
 The other thing that a lot of people had mentioned was the timing.  The
 distributor hasn't been out or moved since the last time the engine ran

 Eric Tobolski

Eric

To break it down in its most simplistic terms, for any engine to START you
need Fuel, Fire and Timing.  I f you have these three things, it HAS to
start.  I dont care if it's the latest <gasoline> engine from any
manufacturer with all the electronic gadgets in the world applied, the same
rules apply.  You will read a hundred different ways from a hundred
different people on how and what to check first, that is, which various
circuits are at fault based on symptoms given.  I've been doing this for
many years and know what works best for me.  My method of trouble shooting
is to cut a circuit in half and go from there.  IE: Fire.. Pull the coil
wire, hold it about 1/4 inch from block, fire?, blue fire, yellow fire, no
fire?  None, well in a point type ignition, check for voltage at the coil,
cut the circuit in half every time, it will save time but you have to know
how a circuit works first in able to do this effectivly.  Trouble shooting
from A-Z takes too much time when you have to make a living doing this,
probably the same no matter what line of work your in. <When I was a
mechanic, flat rate could suck sometimes ,Time=Money>.   Fuel: Pump the
linkage at the carb, look down the venturi, any fuel squirting out? No, go
from there.  Have fuel, have decent spark, now, whats left..Timing.  There
are two types of timing, Cam and Spark.  All things being equal, with the
age\miles on our trucks, spark timing probably didn't change much since the
last time your truck was running, so check the cam timing first.  Put the
motor on TDC and check it, say it's right on.  Now check your dizzy rotor
position, pointing at # 1, yes or no.  Ok, you have FFT, now check the
plugs, (figure the odds of ALL 8 plug wires being THAT bad:) Are they
flooded? You can take a propane torch and dry them but I'd replace em for
the .99 cents a piece they cost at Pep boy's for genuine Motorcraft.  NOBODY
cleans plugs anymore due to the labor costs verse price of new plugs...errr
except somebody in Michigan that owns a spark plug cleaner:)  (Gary, what ya
think a museum would pay for that collectors item:))  Notice I didnt go into
detail on what to do for each step that you answered NO to.  Those answers
can be as varied as the people on this list.  But the problem is the problem
no matter how you find it.  Time is money to me and my boss and this method
works for ME.  FFT, remember it, it will help you with questions to this
list or anybody else you are describing a No Start problem to.  Now this was
written as a generalization on trouble shooting so I hope nobody holds me to
details left out, like, what if the motor has no compression, motor wont
turn over, etc, there is a proceedure for everything.  Off the soap box now.

Rich



------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:38:55 -0500


I have a 302 in my garage that is all torn down & the block has been tanked
(about 3 yrs. ago)  It is out of a 79 F-150.  It is a 2V  version,but the
funniest thing that I've ever seen is that it has an Aluminum  Factory  2V
intake. Has anyone else ever seen one of these ??
-----Original Message-----
From: WEDIVE247 aol.com <WEDIVE247 aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, January 28, 2001 11:39 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY


>In a message dated 1/27/2001 2:23:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>trendsetter4life yahoo.com writes:
>
>
>> Ok i have to ask the question since i have to many parts sitting around
the
>> house i
>> need to off is it worth my time to try and sell my o.e single barrel carb
>> and intake
>> been of the truck about 1 year after it was bought back in 79.  Also have
>> O.E. hub
>> caps and some other stuff just wondered if it was worth my time thanks
for
>> any input
>>
>>
>
>I think as long as you can supply a picture with it your chances of selling
>your goods is pretty good .
>
>Steve     64  F100         351ci
>
>
>
>


------------------------------

From: Ben <bluesky6 ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 240 to 300 interchange question
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:44:54 -0800


On Mon, 29 Jan 2001 21:32:44 EST, you wrote:

%
%Yup, sure can.  Gona put in a stock 300, or turn it into a wild
stumper?  Got
%some good ideas on doin that if your interested.

Probably start with stock, then put in Offy intake & carb and Dynomax
headers.

Ben

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Reno?
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:48:06 -0500


Darn shuttles drivers anyhow !!!!   They must not have a sense of adventure.
They must not have the ability to recognize a diamond in the rough !!!   LOL
LOL
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 10:14 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Reno?


>
>
>
>scott wrote:
>>
>> >>How about Reno?  What's the FTE situation there...Any
>> >>Reno-ites(Renoians?) online...?
>>
>> Yes,and Renoite is correct.
> <snip>
>>  There are enough people here alredy tho...so stay home :)
>
>You don't mind if I stop in 2 or 3 times a year to leave my money in
>those slot machines, do you...?  Seems to keep your taxes down...
>
>FTE content--the last couple of times I visited, I saw a Unibody parked
>in a lot (wrecking yard?  shop?) just SW of the freeway on the way to
>the airport...I couldn't get the damn shuttle driver to pull over,
>though...
>
>
>
>--
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum diagram
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:54:05 -0500


Do any of your buddies have any old  Chiltons manuals  that they will let
you borrow  ??
-----Original Message-----
From: mail.in-tch.com <tet2met in-tch.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 9:30 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Vacuum diagram


>
>I need a vacuum diagram for my 79 F150 400HP automatic. Have not been able
>to find one. The factory manual doesn't even have one. Everything refers me
>to the sticker under the hood that hasn't been there for years. Does anyone
>have a suggestion?
>
>Tom
>
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 240 to 300 interchange question
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:57:11 -0500


Clifford  performance can help you out for  high performance parts for your
300 -6  also,but they are kind of expensive on some of their stuff.
-----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com <JUMPINFORD aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, January 29, 2001 9:45 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 240 to 300 interchange question


>
>Yup, sure can.  Gona put in a stock 300, or turn it into a wild stumper?
Got
>some good ideas on doin that if your interested.
>
>Darrell & Tweety
>


------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: Re: Won't start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:31:12 -0500



Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:44:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Won't start
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


Actualy it is very possible for a bad battery to show full charge (12V or
more) with no load.  That's why they sell battery testers that will put a
load on the battery.  Simply put Voltage = pressure and Amps = volume of
flow.  Like in hydraulics (or plumbing) if you flow more current than your
source can supply pressure drops.  It is therefore possible for a battery
to
show full voltage (pressure) at zero amps (no flow).  Also it is common for
a battery just comming of a charger to show high voltage and then drop a
short while later.

I AGREEEE

And in addition, the 13.8 or 14.4 you read when the engine is running is
the
alternator output. A six cell lead-acid battery can not output more than 12
volts.
-- John
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com

I agree with the first sentence and dissagree with the last.  If a battery
cannot show a a static charge of AROUND 12.5 volts dc, it needs charged or
its bad.  Believe me when I say I have checked a battery or two.  I didnt
believe it when Gould explained it to me years ago either, but experience
could not prove them wrong either.  I know I'll be flogged from the list for
this, but any battery I ever checked that was 12v or less needed charging or
was bad.  Batteries have an average life span of 5 years.  If you take a 5
year old battery and drain it down, odds are, it aint comming back to but
around 15% of it's CCA capacity.  I have a 4 yr old Diehard Gold in my
truck, Wife left the lights on last week.  I almost went and bought another
before I charged it.  Well it still works!! hmmm Like I said, average.  72
months? Pep Boy's?  Can ya spell lost leader sales? <I can explain this>

Rich


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 00:29:03 EST
Subject: Re: Won't start


I swear by Optimas.  Have had the same one in an F-600 for 6 years that used
to get a new interstate yearly.  Now an interstate is a great battery, and
still have a few in some of the family cars that are goin on the same age.
This is very good for a desert battery.  But they are slowly bein replaced
with Optimas.  The F-600 is proof positive for me, if that optima can handle
the vibrations that well, and still manage to be run down over a weekend
(just did it, darn domelight) and come right back on a charge, well Im sure
it can take anything you can throw at it.  Even bullets, or so they say.  Id
rather not find out with my battery....

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: thurlow <don.thurlow mail1.greenbaynet.com>
Subject: haven't posted
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 23:33:27 -0600 (CST)


Well I haven't posted in awhile.. I really haven't been on the computer
all that much. (Few thousand emails later, finally get to reply/post).
I kinda became a trader.  I bought a jeep (waits for insults).  I'm just
rebuilding it to beat the heck out of it and sell so i can buy a bigger
and better ford. I had a 79 f-250 that well got smashed so i had to turn
my back and go for this jeep deal i couldn't turn down.  My truck went to
a good cause.  The local 4x4 shop bought it and is using parts of it in a
truck that he plans to run in the next tough truck challenge that four
wheeler magazine hosts.  So look for a red ford f-250 (My axles are in
it).  It's got 44's on it too :).  Well just had to post and see how
everything was going.


-Don Thurlow

------------------------------

From: "rich" <richth exis.net>
Subject: ENGINE WONT START
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 01:49:22 -0500


> Went right over my head, sorry....should have mentioned that on older
fords
> there are several things that go wrong in the wiring.  Number one and most
> common is the black plugs that connect the coil, dizzy and module in dura
> spark systems.  Try unplugging them and plugging them back in several
times
> to clean off the terminals.  Also look at the green and red wires that go
to
> the coil for possible breaks or to ensure that the spade receiver has not
> been pushed up when installing the cap on the coil.  Old wires will get
pin
> holes in the insulation and corrode from the inside leaving no sign but a
> little green spot on the insulation where the green copper oxide is
bleeding
> through indicating a bad spot in the wire.  These are the two most common
> failures on old trucks that I've run into.
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary

Back to the old troubleshooting thang again :) Remember, FFT. Lets assume
that your not getting fire as Gary is saying.  Now spend your time opening
up your wiring harnes performing a visual check of your wiring connected
from your Duraspark module to your coil.  If you see something GREAT! Ya
probably found the problem.  What if ya checked the coil wire first and ya
had good fire?  Ya just wasted time and effort for nothing, let alone cut
into your wiring harnes for nothing.  One of the oldest rules of trouble
shooting is this "show me where you been, I'll show you the problem".   As
Gary said, If you just replaced the cap or coil, and it ran before, look
there first.  We all have assumptions, one of mine is this as an example,
for an old ford any way, if the motor dies after starting and running, while
driving down the road it suddenly dies, no spits and sputters.  After a
minute or two it starts right back up.  It repeats this process over and
over but the time it takes to re-start the motor increases to several
minutes.  Think about it, its probably not fuel related due to the sudden
cut off.  Probably not a (bad green wire) due to the repeatability of the
problem.  Pull the Duraspark unit and get it tested <Free at most part
stores anymore, read pep boy's here>   Again, I thought the original poster
could not get his engine started and he had no clues as to what to look for.
We can all play the "bet ya never saw this problem" or "it could be this
because I seen it" game.  Lord knows I have a bunch of them myself.  90% of
the time list member problems are basic to us, difficult to them, for now
anyway.  They will be teaching us before long.  Look at Wish :)  Now we can
go into minor details, or even racing information for that matter.  I love
REAL expereince (read Azzi, Ox, Gary, Wish and many others!)  But this "I
have no expereince in that area, I never seen that rearend before, never
this or that but this is what I "think" is like the blind leading the blind.

Sorry Wife saw this and made me get off my second soapbox

Rich

Lord, I am gonna hate my Email tommorrow:)

> > The other thing that a lot of people had mentioned was the timing.  The
> > distributor hasn't been out or moved since the last time the
> > engine ran.  I
> > will check the timing anyway since that is what most people have
suggested
> > to me.  Is it possible that the timing could have been changed without
> > moving anything?  The more I think about everything that happened while
> > trying to start the truck, I think it is more likely to be a fuel
problem,
> > but this is still easy enough to check.



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Help removing front wheel bearing nuts from 4x4 Bronc
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:36:38 -0800


Almost any autoparts store can get one overnight if they don't already have
it on the shelf.  I got the rear nuts off my E-300 van many times with a
punch but the nut is totally trashed from doning this.  If you don't need
the truck right away, get the tool and do it right.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> > 4xz4 Bronco. As I do not have the ' Front Wheel Bearing Spanner
> ' and cannot
> > source one from anywhere,


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:49:09 -0800


I can tell you that I had a bad green wire and the engine did as you say,
ran, quit, ran quit then finally quit and stayed quit.  I also had a coil
mount come loose and guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the
bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run "intermittantly" and
drive you crazy.  All the things I mentioned take all of 2 minutes to check
out and could save you a lot of "professional" trouble shooting by the book.
I always look at the simple stuff first, even if the book doesn't tell me
too.....:-)

BTW, I didn't always have this philosophy....I once took the timing cover
off because I just knew it was the timing chain since nothing else seemed to
be wrong.......you will never guess so I will tell you it was those STUPID
BLACK PLUGS AGAIN!!!  I'd plug them in and get fire then try to start it and
the fire went away....over and over and over again till I was convinced this
could not be the problem.  Now I have a multimeter so I don't have to guess
and it's the very first place I look for trouble, always :-)  It's not
always the problem but it only takes a few seconds to check it out :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> have no expereince in that area, I never seen that rearend before, never
> this or that but this is what I "think" is like the blind leading
> the blind.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 351c dizzy question
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:51:01 -0800


I would stick with one closer to the cubes you have.  The 460 is a whole
nuther smoke :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Would I be better off running a 460 dizzy for the difference in mech
> adavance, or is the one for the 400 more suited to my needs?  It
> runs great,
> real smooth, but I figure I wouldn't notice it being under par.


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 15:08:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Manual steering gearbox replacement


>
>The first thing I want to do with my "new" 1969 F100 is to replace the
>rusted steering gearbox. This is a manual steering unit.
>

One thing you didn't mention was if this was 4x4 or 4x2 application.  I notice
mostly 4x2 guys forget to post it, but on the off chance that it is a 4x4, the
manual and P/S boxes for 73-75 are likely the same because it was an odd "ram
assisted" style of power steering.  I wouldn't be surprised if the earlier 4x4's
used the same box with their manual setup.

Of course if you've got a 4x2 this is completely out the window.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 06:45:12 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START




GaryBBB wrote:
 guess what.....Ford coils are grounded through the
> bracket and if the dang thing comes loose it will run "intermittantly" and
> drive you crazy.

How far back does this go?  I mean, specifically, does it apply to the
Cleveland in my truck?  I have been having problems and narrowed it down
to the coil not firing, but this could shed new light...I have been
looking at after market "Hotter" coils...







--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm

------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 23:03:44 -0500

> 1/2 can of starter fluid into the carb, a little at a time.
> At first, I got absolutely nothing.  As I got more in there,
> the engine started to sound like it was going to start, but
> was running out of juice.  The fuel pump that was on the
> engine had three places to connect a line to it.  I am
> assuming that this was because it had dual tanks.  I
> replaced it with one that only had one inlet and one outlet.

No, sir ... that three connector fuel pump is a "dual action"
pump that pumps both on the upstroke and downstroke, and
the third connector is a fuel return for the extra fuel to go back
to the tank if it isnt needed in the carb.  My dad had a Merc
with a 460/4V and dual action fuel pump ... it needed it in order
to supply that huge engine with enough gas to run properly
while pulling around that much weight.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:56:23 -0600
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: D60 brakes


Hey, all.

Would someone mind refreshing me on the procedure of getting in and out of
the rear brakes on a '67 Dana 60 (including torque specs). I have ordered a
CD manual from Ken, and spare tab washers from a mail order place. I
procured a 2-9/16" socket from KD tools. I could also use a source for the
gasket behind the axle flange.

Also, I am missing the ID tag on the axle. That makes things a little
difficult. The truck is a camper special, which I believe has wider brake
shoes. Can anyone verify? Are the rear brake cylinders special or different
from the run of the mill F250?

Thanks,

Doss Halsey
'67 F250 Camper Special


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENGINE WONT START
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 10:52:34 -0800


All of the metal can ones that are in a braket with a single bolt holding it
to the engine AFAIK.  The newer ones are plastic and have some other way to
ground them.  If the black rubber plugs are bad it will do that too.  Old
truck wiring is the biggest pain to trouble shoot because there are so many
places it can be bad :-(  I just pulled the whole tail light wire harness of
a truck to locate the bad spot and found exactly what I expected, rotted
wire inside the insulation.  The only clue was the fact that the wire bent a
little too easily and sharply in that spot :-)  When I put it back in I did
a much neater job than the last yahooooo :-) ....


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