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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Mon, 29 Jan 2001 16:56:00 -0500 (EST)
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 16:56:00 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #28 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Sun, 28 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 028 In This Issue: Re: Rear axle Re: Engine won't start Re: The man... Re: Engine won't start Re: Engine won't start Linclon help Re: Header Problems snow plow wiring Engine bellhousing bolts for FE Re: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE Re: Header Problems Re: Won't start Re: Engine won't start wierd fuel pump/vapor lock Re: snow plow wiring Re: The man Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY Re: The man Re: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE Re: The man 292 motor colors 1962 f100 Re: Reno? ADMIN: Off-topic postings Re: The man Re: Engine won't start ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:09:18 EST Subject: Re: Rear axle In a message dated 01/23/01 11:04:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:
> > Gene G. writes: >>What are the symptoms of a bent axle? << > > > > Usually a slight vibration and uneven wear on the rear tire on that axle. > > > > Could it cause clutch chatter? > > > > No!! I don't think so.. > > > >>>What is invloved in checking the rear axle to see if it's bent? << > > > > Remove and inspect. Wait! You just might be able to see a "wobble" in > > the side if the axle were bent enough to cause a vibration.. > > > > snip > > > >>>Thanks for listening ...<< > > > > Glad to do so.. > > > > Azie Magnusson > > Ardmore, Al. > > > > I (unknowingly) installed a bent axle from teh parts yard one time in Denver. The only clues to me were that it was wet (damp) around the pumpkin of the 9". Later after the 1200 mile drive home to Ca, the inside cords were showing on both of my then new GR60's onthe rear of that F100. There was no shimmy, bad vibe's, etc. Had to replace teh whole assy again to clear it up. George M in FL. ------------------------------ From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:20:25 -0500 > Ok, the bronco probably came with the 3 pole starter but you > should be using > the 4 pole with the solenoid on it. Bolts on the same way > and hooks up with > one wire just like the other one but has more torque. You > may have fried > the starter trying to start it. I have the starter from the 460 as well. It doesn't have the solenoid on it though. I was also thinking that I had fried the starter. The symptoms it has now are almost identical to the last time I had a bad starter. That is one of the first things I will change. What symptoms would the solenoid have if it went bad? Is this even a possibility? The 351m/400 takes the same > dizzy as the 460 > but the springs and other parts are somewhat different so a > dizzy from a 460 > is better but that won't prevent it from starting, just won't > have the pep > it should. Firing order is counter clockwise as you look > down on the dizzy > as was pointed out and Number one cylinder is on the > passenger side. Ford > numbers are sequential per side so 1-4 is on passenger side > etc., in case > you weren't aware of that. I am currently using the distributor that came with the 460, so I doubt that will be a problem. I double checked all the plugs and wires, and everything is connected right. New lines don't necessarily mean > fuel is getting > through. I'd still make sure you are getting plenty of juice > at the carb > the old fashioned way by pulling the line and running it into > a can. 460's > are typically cold blooded so don't be afraid to get some gas > into it. You > can dump nearly a pint of fuel in the carb at a time and it > will just drink > it up :-) I've had good luck with the cheap brand of hot > shot too but have > been told by experts (dirt track racers) that too much will > blow the heads > off and just got over an incident where I actually did flood > an engine and > no amount of cranking would dry it out and hot shot didn't > work either....I > had to actually pull the plugs, blast them, gap them and put > them back in > before it would start and it started right up then :-) (that > one had me > going cuz I'm used to them drying out quicker) > Fuel delivery is what I was beginning to think was my problem. I put about 1/2 can of starter fluid into the carb, a little at a time. At first, I got absolutely nothing. As I got more in there, the engine started to sound like it was going to start, but was running out of juice. The fuel pump that was on the engine had three places to connect a line to it. I am assuming that this was because it had dual tanks. I replaced it with one that only had one inlet and one outlet. The old pump is from 87 and the new one is from 78. The part that goes inside the engine looked identical on the two, so this one should work. However, it seems as if the fuel isn't getting to the carb. I will have to check this out after I replace the starter. The other thing that a lot of people had mentioned was the timing. The distributor hasn't been out or moved since the last time the engine ran. I will check the timing anyway since that is what most people have suggested to me. Is it possible that the timing could have been changed without moving anything? The more I think about everything that happened while trying to start the truck, I think it is more likely to be a fuel problem, but this is still easy enough to check. Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I can't do anything else until Tuesday since I have to start school again, but hopefully I will be able to get this thing running then. Eric Tobolski ------------------------------ From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: The man... Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 09:18:17 -0900 -----Original Message----- From: Ann Wasserman <meshugga prodigy.net>
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: The man... >There is no jerks because they are committing suicide, where it is the highest in the >country!! How do the old vehicles due as far as rust out there? I know there is lots >of snow but so does SD and there vehicles stay pretty preserved so to speak. Annie They do very well unless you live in anchorage. When I lived up in Fairbanks I never had any problem with rust, not a lot of "wet" weather and nothing but sand used on the roads, if that was used at all. But one winter in Anchorage, where there is considerably more rain, and they use a salt compound mixed in the sand,, Yikes, I have rust showing up all over. Erik Marquez bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:55:47 -0500 However, it seems as if the fuel isn't getting to the carb. ========================================= Try to siphon the gas through the lines with a vacuum pump (aka, brake bleeder, etc..) If you get gas to go through, you know at least that the it's getting to the pump. I had this problem once... Went crazy replacing fuel pumps, and wondering what the heck could be wrong..spent two days on it. Found out that I had heated a spot on the rail gas line with a welder and it had put a hole in it. Patched it up, runs great! -bob- 79 Bronco 460 44's T18 79 Bronco 400 40's C6 ------------------------------ From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:48:48 -0600 > However, it seems as if the fuel isn't > getting to the carb. > > ========================================= > > Try to siphon the gas through the lines with a vacuum pump (aka, brake > bleeder, etc..) If you get gas to go through, you know at least that the > it's getting to the pump. I had this problem once... Went crazy replacing > fuel pumps, and wondering what the heck could be wrong..spent two days on > it. Found out that I had heated a spot on the rail gas line with a welder > and it had put a hole in it. Patched it up, runs great! > Take off the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb while you work the gas pedal linkage. You should see gasoline squirt or at least hear it and smell it. If there is no squirt then you aren't getting fuel. You can also disconnect the fuel line from the carb and stick it in a jar or bottle. Crank the engine over. If the jar pumps full of gas, fuel isn't the problem. I wouldn't be surprised if you found a rotten rubber hose somewhere that is losing your pressure like the afore mentioned welding accident. The rubber lines on either side of my fuel filter just in front of the carb are forever cracking and splitting. --John LaGrone jlagrone ford-trucks.com
See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm ------------------------------ From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Linclon help Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:53:56 -0600 I had many replies to my plea for help on my Lincoln climate control. Thanks to everyone. I had major eye surgery last Wednesday, so it will be at least 30 days before I can work on it. Luckily, the climate control problem isn't a critical issue, just annoying. Once again, thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions and offers of help. Thanks particularly to Rich Southerland for the troubleshooting charts. --John LaGrone jlagrone ford-trucks.com
See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm (Henry sits longingly in the driveway.) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:54:06 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Header Problems Jake, Are those 4V Cleveland heads? Sanderson makes block huggers for 4V Cleveland heads. I am using Sanderson FC3 headers on my 400 w/4V Cleveland heads. The FC3 headers are unique in that the passenger side header exits above the starter, that helps prevent starter overheating. If you have any other questions about this , send me an email directly. My truck is a '53 F100 so I can only help if it is a motor question. Dan Lee '53 F100 400C-4V >From: "Air Junky" <jake airjunky.com>
>Subject: Header problems >Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 23:24:25 -0800 >Hello, I am new to your list, and somewhat to the >whole world of restoring an old pick-up to. I have >recently purchased a truck that was being restored, >but not finished. It is a '78 F150 4x4, 400 motor, 351 >heads, C6 trans, posi rear-end with 4:11 gears. My >current problem is this; the guy I bought it from had >some headers that were professionally modified to fit >the cleveland heads, but when I put them on it doesn't >look like there will be enough room to have a "y" pipe .made to go from the headers back to the single >exhaust. The reason is that the headers end to closely >to the cross-member. He did also give me the stock >heads & headers, so my question is this: does anyone >make "block huggers" headers for a 78 F150 4x4? I >have not found any luck finding any so far. Any >suggestions or help from people with experience would .be greatly appreciated. >-Jake >Jake Kinnison .jake airjunky.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://airjunky.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "FRITZ DOWE" <fdowe danet.net>
Subject: snow plow wiring Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 15:19:58 -0600 Hello everyone. I just picked up a Western snowplow for one of my '79 Ford trucks, and was hoping someone on the list also had one so I could get a couple of questions answered. I will only be plowing about 3 driveways with it, so it will not be an all day affair. First, can I get away with using only one battery and switching to a bigger alternator? It may turn out that I won't even put the aux. lights on the plow if I only use it during the day. Second, how should I run the wires to the solenoid? The joystick has a single black wire running from it to the "s" on the solenoid. I figure that this completes the ground circuit to energize the solenoid so the pump can run. Am I right? Third, my pump motor has two terminals on it. I figure one is for positive, and the other is ground. Which would be which. And should the ground cable run all the way back to the battery, or can it run down to the frame? I apologize for all the questions, but the unit I bought came off of a Bronco and was removed by the guy I bought it from and it didn't come with any wire schematics. TIA. Fritz Dowe ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 15:11:10 -0800 Well I guess this is the start of my restoration project. I picket up a 360 FE from Greg today. Got it home fine. Seems to rotate freely. I checkt it out a little. It has a 2 bbl carb and the block has a reverse 105 cast in it (yipee). Question. I remember seeing this. I need to mount the block on my engine stand. What size and thread pitch of bolts should I get? Thanks guys. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 18:18:37 EST Subject: Re: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE Length depends on your stand, but they are 7/16ths course thread. Good luck on your project. Whats it gonna end up as? 390? 406? 410? 428? Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Air Junky" <jake airjunky.com>
Subject: Re: Header Problems Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 16:20:06 -0800 Thanks Dan, I do have a couple questions, but didn't see that you left your direct email address. -Jake Jake Kinnison jake airjunky.com
----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 12:54 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Header Problems > > Jake, > > Are those 4V Cleveland heads? Sanderson makes block > huggers for 4V Cleveland heads. I am using Sanderson > FC3 headers on my 400 w/4V Cleveland heads. The FC3 > headers are unique in that the passenger side header > exits above the starter, that helps prevent starter > overheating. If you have any other questions about > this , send me an email directly. My truck is a '53 > F100 so I can only help if it is a motor question. > > Dan Lee > '53 F100 > 400C-4V > > > >From: "Air Junky" <jake airjunky.com>
> >Subject: Header problems > >Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 23:24:25 -0800 > > >Hello, I am new to your list, and somewhat to the > >whole world of restoring an old pick-up to. I have > >recently purchased a truck that was being restored, > >but not finished. It is a '78 F150 4x4, 400 motor, > 351 >heads, C6 trans, posi rear-end with 4:11 gears. > My >current problem is this; the guy I bought it from > had >some headers that were professionally modified to > fit >the cleveland heads, but when I put them on it > doesn't >look like there will be enough room to have a > "y" pipe .made to go from the headers back to the > single >exhaust. The reason is that the headers end to > closely >to the cross-member. He did also give me the > stock >heads & headers, so my question is this: does > anyone >make "block huggers" headers for a 78 F150 > 4x4? I >have not found any luck finding any so far. > Any >suggestions or help from people with experience > would .be greatly appreciated. > >-Jake > >Jake Kinnison > .jake airjunky.com
> >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://airjunky.com > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Won't start Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 16:24:13 -0800 > > An interesting point....I checked a battery that I had been > keeping charged > (I thought) on the shelf before throwing it in the bronco and > it read 12.26v > which is usually a good sign for a battery that has been > sitting but on the > first click of the key I got absolutely no response. Checked > it again and > got 10v which obviously wasn't right either so I charged it up. > Interestingly enough though, when I jumpped it the battery > acted like it had > considerable charge in it so the cables may have been at > fault but I just > found the Voltage drop on firt hit to be rather incredible :-) > > Typically you can charge them and immediately take a reading > and it will be > over 13v but after letting it sit for 1/2 hour it will come > back down to > 12---v and if you short it momentarily it will come down > right away. It's > like there's a static residual of some kind in there :-) > <SNIP> Actualy it is very possible for a bad battery to show full charge (12V or more) with no load. That's why they sell battery testers that will put a load on the battery. Simply put Voltage = pressure and Amps = volume of flow. Like in hydraulics (or plumbing) if you flow more current than your source can supply pressure drops. It is therefore possible for a battery to show full voltage (pressure) at zero amps (no flow). Also it is common for a battery just comming of a charger to show high voltage and then drop a short while later. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 16:24:13 -0800 <snip> > The fuel pump > that was on the engine had three places to connect a line to it. I am > assuming that this was because it had dual tanks. <snip> I don't think so. If by 3 connections you mean 3 total including input and output then it might be like a gm pump I saw (had) once. 1 input, 1 output to carb and one return line to the tank. There was a thermal valve in the pump and if the gas got too hot it would open and return the warm gas to the tank for a fresh cool charge. Used mainly (only?) on air conditioned vehicles. I don't know if Ford used a similar setup. I am sure that with dual tanks both tanks fed a solenoid valve mounted mid-truck and an single line went from the valve to the pump. Now that I've said that if the 3rd connection is a return then the solenoid would have to have provisions to route the return gas to the correct tank. > The other thing that a lot of people had mentioned was the > timing. The > distributor hasn't been out or moved since the last time the > engine ran. I > will check the timing anyway since that is what most people > have suggested > to me. Is it possible that the timing could have been changed without > moving anything? YES!!! Jumped cog on the timing chain/sproket. Hey you asked! :0) > The more I think about everything that > happened while > trying to start the truck, I think it is more likely to be a > fuel problem, > but this is still easy enough to check. > This should be very easy to check. If you're getting fuel to the carb you should be able to look down the throat of the carb move the throttle full range and see 2 streams of fuel shot into the primary bores from the accelerator pump. No steams no fuel in carb. The other thing you could do is pull the check plug on the carb bowl and just see fuel come out of the bowl (top of fuel level should match the bottom of the plug hole.) > Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I can't do anything > else until > Tuesday since I have to start school again, but hopefully I > will be able to > get this thing running then. > > Eric Tobolski > > Good luck. Tom H ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 20:16:57 EST Subject: wierd fuel pump/vapor lock In a message dated 1/28/01 4:28:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com writes:
<< I don't know if Ford used a similar setup >> Cobra Jet cars that were equiped with Q-Jets were the ones that got that fuel pump. Thats one of the ways to identify a true cobra jet even if its been torn apart. Got that extra fuel line headin to the tank. Been thinkin of using one of these on my truck as it has a bad tendancy to vapor lock. Or Im gonna run a filterless car style pump (that reservoir is just a place to grab heat) and an electric fuel pump. Any ideas or comments on this? Nuthin ruins wheelin like goin wide open up a climb, only to be stuck at the top cuz of sever vapor lock. I was really hopin Edelbrock was planning an airgap intake soon for the 429/460, but nooooooooooo Cant do that, it aint a chevy.... No biggie, that offy 360 outta work real nice :) Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: snow plow wiring Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 19:31:53 -0600 1one battery should be good -2 yes your right it will be the ground you are completing withthe joy stick 3 most time the top most post on the pump is the ground and to the frame will be good for the ground on the pump ---- Original Message ----- From: "FRITZ DOWE" <fdowe danet.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 3:19 PM Subject: [61-79-list] snow plow wiring > > Hello everyone. I just picked up a Western snowplow for one of my '79 Ford > trucks, and was hoping someone on the list also had one so I could get a > couple of questions answered. I will only be plowing about 3 driveways with > it, so it will not be an all day affair. > > First, can I get away with using only one battery and switching to a bigger > alternator? It may turn out that I won't even put the aux. lights on the > plow if I only use it during the day. > > Second, how should I run the wires to the solenoid? The joystick has a > single black wire running from it to the "s" on the solenoid. I figure that > this completes the ground circuit to energize the solenoid so the pump can > run. Am I right? > > Third, my pump motor has two terminals on it. I figure one is for positive, > and the other is ground. Which would be which. And should the ground cable > run all the way back to the battery, or can it run down to the frame? > > I apologize for all the questions, but the unit I bought came off of a > Bronco and was removed by the guy I bought it from and it didn't come with > any wire schematics. > > TIA. > > Fritz Dowe > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:51:10 -0500 From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The man At 01:04 PM 1/28/01 -0500, you wrote: >I have a substantial investment investment in my home and hope to make >some money on it down the road,sell it and move into the country and >retire.I like zoning regs.They help protect my investment. > Let's say bowtie Billy moves in next door and fills his yard with >wrecked che*ies. > Then m*par Marv moves in acress from me and fills his yard with wrecked >dod*ges. >Let's just say the actions of Marv and Billy lower my property value by >$20.000 >At what point does Billy's and Marv's private property rights over ride >mine? There is no right to make a profit on a real estate deal. George Selby 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd 86 Nissan 300ZX 92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com ------------------------------ From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 23:27:30 EST Subject: Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY In a message dated 1/27/2001 2:23:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, trendsetter4life yahoo.com writes:
> Ok i have to ask the question since i have to many parts sitting around the > house i > need to off is it worth my time to try and sell my o.e single barrel carb > and intake > been of the truck about 1 year after it was bought back in 79. Also have > O.E. hub > caps and some other stuff just wondered if it was worth my time thanks for > any input > > I think as long as you can supply a picture with it your chances of selling your goods is pretty good . Steve 64 F100 351ci ------------------------------ From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 23:32:15 EST Subject: Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY In a message dated 1/27/2001 7:22:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, herrmann in-motion.net writes:
> BTW, another example is a set of NOS 65/66 Ford Parking Light Lens > currently on ebay with a starting price of $45.00 . You think "no-way > does Ford still have 35 year old lenes available", Think-Again Folks! > Order Part Number C5TZ-13208A from your dealer and you can get them all day > long for $16.16 each!! (Dealer cost is 10.67). So look sharp! > > Dan > Point well taken , but also keep in mind that there are also GREAT buys on E-bay . Like stated " So look sharp " Steve 64 F100 351ci ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: The man Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 23:02:12 -0800 I would say he has a right to not have his property devalued by his neighbors... /// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\ ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Selby" <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 6:51 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: The man > > There is no right to make a profit on a real estate deal. > ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 04:41:34 -0800 > > > Length depends on your stand, but they are 7/16ths course > thread. Good luck > on your project. Whats it gonna end up as? 390? 406? 410? 428? > > Darrell & Tweety > Thanks, Still pondering that one. Tom H. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:44:44 -0600 Subject: Re: Won't start From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Actualy it is very possible for a bad battery to show full charge (12V or > more) with no load. That's why they sell battery testers that will put a > load on the battery. Simply put Voltage = pressure and Amps = volume of > flow. Like in hydraulics (or plumbing) if you flow more current than your > source can supply pressure drops. It is therefore possible for a battery to > show full voltage (pressure) at zero amps (no flow). Also it is common for > a battery just comming of a charger to show high voltage and then drop a > short while later. And in addition, the 13.8 or 14.4 you read when the engine is running is the alternator output. A six cell lead-acid battery can not output more than 12 volts. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: The man Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 06:14:14 -0800 While I agree I wouldn't want someone to open a scrapyard in the house next door, I don't know that anyone has that as a "right". As always there are two sides. The guy living next door to the slob might loose a little in property value but if the other guy is forced to clean up or get rid of everything, that might be the way he is earning his living. If you want the assurance that no one will move in next door and do that then move into one of those gated communities we've been complaining about. But if you want the freedom from being hasseled by your neighbor for some of the anal things these associations get wound up about then find a place where the community will be lenient about it and realize that your neighbor also will be able to do some things you don't care for. There have been stories in this area of fishermen no longer being able to store thier boats (lobster boats, very large) in their yards during off season. This was in Bath, you know where they BUILD ships. Also communities taking action against elderly or handicapped people because thier property was cluttered. In that case why couldn't the community pitch in and offer to help clean up the property? That has happened in my area as well. When I chose my home the previous owner built dump trucks in his side yard (visible from 2 roads. So I figure anything I do while the other original owners are here will be small potatoes. :-) Plus if they put up with him I should have no problems. As I do my restoration project I will make every effort to be considerate to my neighbors. There should be ways to camouflage the project so it appears that the truck is still running. ":-) > > I would say he has a right to not have his property devalued by his > neighbors... > > /// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "George Selby" <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
> To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 6:51 PM > Subject: [61-79-list] Re: The man > > > > > > There is no right to make a profit on a real estate deal. > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:35:58 -0600 From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: 292 motor colors 1962 f100 >got motor out and at the machine shop. ? is what color is to be when I am >done? and thing to watch out for when reassembling?? any tricks to watch >I know the 12 pin timing but what about oiling problems or ways to improve >oil to rockers. > The paint color is, actually, NONE. On these motors, the long block was left bare. The intake manifold and rocker covers were Ford Red. I painted my long block black and with the red rocker covers and intake and then black air cleaner it looked really sharp. _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:02:06 -0800 From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Reno? scott wrote: > > >>How about Reno? What's the FTE situation there...Any > >>Reno-ites(Renoians?) online...? > > Yes,and Renoite is correct. <snip> > There are enough people here alredy tho...so stay home :) You don't mind if I stop in 2 or 3 times a year to leave my money in those slot machines, do you...? Seems to keep your taxes down... FTE content--the last couple of times I visited, I saw a Unibody parked in a lot (wrecking yard? shop?) just SW of the freeway on the way to the airport...I couldn't get the damn shuttle driver to pull over, though... -- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 11:23:10 -0500 From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Off-topic postings Gang, we need to keep this mailing list on topic (ie, 61-79 Ford trucks). Post off-topic items on the appropriate forum on the web site. Specifically, "the man" thread has belongs in the General Conversation forum on the web site. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: The man Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:40:49 -0800 There are certainly various layers and sides to the whole "be a good neighbor" debate, most of which don't belong in this forum. I will say however that homeowners associations are different animals from zoning laws. Associations can restrict up to and including what kind of plants you put in, how many weeds there are in your lawn, what kinds of vehicles you have in the driveway, etc. Zoning laws in general only detail what kind of activities can be performed on the property, i.e. industrial, commercial, residential, etc. That of course is a whole different animal from homeowners associations. Needless to say it pays to do some research before you buy. /// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 6:14 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: The man > > While I agree I wouldn't want someone to open a scrapyard in the house next > door, I don't know that anyone has that as a "right". As always there are > two sides. The guy living next door to the slob might loose a little in > property value but if the other guy is forced to clean up or get rid of > everything, that might be the way he is earning his living. > > If you want the assurance that no one will move in next door and do that > then move into one of those gated communities we've been complaining about. > But if you want the freedom from being hasseled by your neighbor for some of > the anal things these associations get wound up about then find a place > where the community will be lenient about it and realize that your neighbor > also will be able to do some things you don't care for. > > There have been stories in this area of fishermen no longer being able to > store thier boats (lobster boats, very large) in their yards during off > season. This was in Bath, you know where they BUILD ships. Also > communities taking action against elderly or handicapped people because > thier property was cluttered. In that case why couldn't the community pitch > in and offer to help clean up the property? That has happened in my area as > well. > > When I chose my home the previous owner built dump trucks in his side yard > (visible from 2 roads. So I figure anything I do while the other original > owners are here will be small potatoes. :-) Plus if they put up with him I > should have no problems. > > As I do my restoration project I will make every effort to be considerate to > my neighbors. There should be ways to camouflage the project so it appears > that the truck is still running. ":-) ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 14:53:51 -0800 Went right over my head, sorry....should have mentioned that on older fords there are several things that go wrong in the wiring. Number one and most common is the black plugs that connect the coil, dizzy and module in dura spark systems. Try unplugging them and plugging them back in several times to clean off the terminals. Also look at the green and red wires that go to the coil for possible breaks or to ensure that the spade receiver has not been pushed up when installing the cap on the coil. Old wires will get pin holes in the insulation and corrode from the inside leaving no sign but a little green spot on the insulation where the green copper oxide is bleeding through indicating a bad spot in the wire. These are the two most common .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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