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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 16:56:00 -0500 (EST)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 28 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 028

In This Issue:
Re: Rear axle
Re: Engine won't start
Re: The man...
Re: Engine won't start
Re: Engine won't start
Linclon help
Re: Header Problems
snow plow wiring
Engine bellhousing bolts for FE
Re: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE
Re: Header Problems
Re: Won't start
Re: Engine won't start
wierd fuel pump/vapor lock
Re: snow plow wiring
Re: The man
Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Re: The man
Re: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE
Re: The man
292 motor colors 1962 f100
Re: Reno?
ADMIN: Off-topic postings
Re: The man
Re: Engine won't start

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:09:18 EST
Subject: Re: Rear axle

In a message dated 01/23/01 11:04:44 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:


> > Gene G. writes:  >>What are the symptoms of a bent axle? <<
> >
> > Usually a slight vibration and uneven wear on the rear tire on that axle.
> >
> > Could it cause clutch chatter?
> >
> > No!!  I don't think so..
> >
> >>>What is invloved in checking the rear axle to see if it's bent? <<
> >
> > Remove and inspect.  Wait!  You just might be able to see a "wobble" in
> > the side if the axle were bent enough to cause a vibration..
> >
> > snip
> >
> >>>Thanks for listening ...<<
> >
> > Glad to do so..
> >
> > Azie Magnusson
> > Ardmore, Al.
> >
>
>

I  (unknowingly) installed a bent axle from teh parts yard one time in
Denver. The only clues to me were that it was wet (damp) around the pumpkin
of the 9". Later after the 1200 mile drive home to Ca, the inside cords were
showing on both of my then new GR60's onthe rear of that F100. There was no
shimmy, bad vibe's, etc. Had to replace teh whole assy again to clear it up.

George M in FL.



------------------------------

From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:20:25 -0500


> Ok, the bronco probably came with the 3 pole starter but you
> should be using
> the 4 pole with the solenoid on it.  Bolts on the same way
> and hooks up with
> one wire just like the other one but has more torque.  You
> may have fried
> the starter trying to start it.

I have the starter from the 460 as well.  It doesn't have the solenoid on it
though.  I was also thinking that I had fried the starter.  The symptoms it
has now are almost identical to the last time I had a bad starter.  That is
one of the first things I will change.  What symptoms would the solenoid
have if it went bad?  Is this even a possibility?

The 351m/400 takes the same
> dizzy as the 460
> but the springs and other parts are somewhat different so a
> dizzy from a 460
> is better but that won't prevent it from starting, just won't
> have the pep
> it should.  Firing order is counter clockwise as you look
> down on the dizzy
> as was pointed out and Number one cylinder is on the
> passenger side.  Ford
> numbers are sequential per side so 1-4 is on passenger side
> etc., in case
> you weren't aware of that.

I am currently using the distributor that came with the 460, so I doubt that
will be a problem.  I double checked all the plugs and wires, and everything
is connected right.

 New lines don't necessarily mean
> fuel is getting
> through.  I'd still make sure you are getting plenty of juice
> at the carb
> the old fashioned way by pulling the line and running it into
> a can.  460's
> are typically cold blooded so don't be afraid to get some gas
> into it.  You
> can dump nearly a pint of fuel in the carb at a time and it
> will just drink
> it up :-)  I've had good luck with the cheap brand of hot
> shot too but have
> been told by experts (dirt track racers) that too much will
> blow the heads
> off and just got over an incident where I actually did flood
> an engine and
> no amount of cranking would dry it out and hot shot didn't
> work either....I
> had to actually pull the plugs, blast them, gap them and put
> them back in
> before it would start and it started right up then :-) (that
> one had me
> going cuz I'm used to them drying out quicker)
>

Fuel delivery is what I was beginning to think was my problem.  I put about
1/2 can of starter fluid into the carb, a little at a time.  At first, I got
absolutely nothing.  As I got more in there, the engine started to sound
like it was going to start, but was running out of juice.  The fuel pump
that was on the engine had three places to connect a line to it.  I am
assuming that this was because it had dual tanks.  I replaced it with one
that only had one inlet and one outlet.  The old pump is from 87 and the new
one is from 78.  The part that goes inside the engine looked identical on
the two, so this one should work.  However, it seems as if the fuel isn't
getting to the carb.  I will have to check this out after I replace the
starter.

The other thing that a lot of people had mentioned was the timing.  The
distributor hasn't been out or moved since the last time the engine ran.  I
will check the timing anyway since that is what most people have suggested
to me.  Is it possible that the timing could have been changed without
moving anything?  The more I think about everything that happened while
trying to start the truck, I think it is more likely to be a fuel problem,
but this is still easy enough to check.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions.  I can't do anything else until
Tuesday since I have to start school again, but hopefully I will be able to
get this thing running then.

Eric Tobolski


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: The man...
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 09:18:17 -0900



-----Original Message-----
From: Ann Wasserman <meshugga prodigy.net>
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: The man...


>There is no jerks because they are committing suicide, where it is the
highest in the >country!!   How do the old vehicles due as far as rust out
there?  I know there is lots >of snow but so does SD and there vehicles stay
pretty preserved so to speak.  Annie

They do very well unless you live in anchorage.  When I lived up in
Fairbanks I never had any problem with rust, not a lot of "wet" weather and
nothing but sand used on the roads, if that was used at all.

But one winter in Anchorage, where there is considerably more rain, and they
use a salt compound mixed in the sand,, Yikes, I have rust showing up all
over.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:55:47 -0500


 However, it seems as if the fuel isn't
getting to the carb.

=========================================

Try to siphon the gas through the lines with a vacuum pump (aka, brake
bleeder, etc..)  If you get gas to go through, you know at least that the
it's getting to the pump.  I had this problem once... Went crazy replacing
fuel pumps, and wondering what the heck could be wrong..spent two days on
it.  Found out that I had heated a spot on the rail gas line with a welder
and it had put a hole in it.  Patched it up, runs great!

-bob-
79 Bronco 460 44's T18
79 Bronco 400 40's C6



------------------------------

From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:48:48 -0600


>   However, it seems as if the fuel isn't
> getting to the carb.
>
> =========================================
>
> Try to siphon the gas through the lines with a vacuum pump (aka, brake
> bleeder, etc..)  If you get gas to go through, you know at least that the
> it's getting to the pump.  I had this problem once... Went crazy replacing
> fuel pumps, and wondering what the heck could be wrong..spent two days on
> it.  Found out that I had heated a spot on the rail gas line with a welder
> and it had put a hole in it.  Patched it up, runs great!
>

Take off the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb while you work
the gas pedal linkage. You should see gasoline squirt or at least hear it
and smell it. If there is no squirt then you aren't getting fuel. You can
also disconnect the fuel line from the carb and stick it in a jar or bottle.
Crank the engine over. If the jar pumps full of gas, fuel isn't the problem.
I wouldn't be surprised if you found a rotten rubber hose somewhere that is
losing your pressure like the afore mentioned welding accident. The rubber
lines on either side of my fuel filter just in front of the carb are forever
cracking and splitting.

--John LaGrone
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm


------------------------------

From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Linclon help
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:53:56 -0600

I had many replies to my plea for help on my Lincoln climate control. Thanks to everyone. I had major eye surgery last Wednesday, so it will be at least 30 days before I can work on it. Luckily, the climate control problem isn't a critical issue, just annoying. Once again, thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions and offers of help. Thanks particularly to Rich Southerland for the troubleshooting charts.

--John LaGrone
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
(Henry sits longingly in the driveway.)


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 12:54:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Header Problems


Jake,

Are those 4V Cleveland heads? Sanderson makes block
huggers for 4V Cleveland heads. I am using Sanderson
FC3 headers on my 400 w/4V Cleveland heads. The FC3
headers are unique in that the passenger side header
exits above the starter, that helps prevent starter
overheating. If you have any other questions about
this , send me an email directly. My truck is a '53
F100 so I can only help if it is a motor question.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V


>From: "Air Junky" <jake airjunky.com>
>Subject: Header problems
>Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 23:24:25 -0800

>Hello, I am new to your list, and somewhat to the
>whole world of restoring an old pick-up to. I have
>recently purchased a truck that was being restored,
>but not finished. It is a '78 F150 4x4, 400 motor,
351 >heads, C6 trans, posi rear-end with 4:11 gears.
My >current problem is this; the guy I bought it from
had >some headers that were professionally modified to
fit >the cleveland heads, but when I put them on it
doesn't >look like there will be enough room to have a
"y" pipe .made to go from the headers back to the
single >exhaust. The reason is that the headers end to
closely >to the cross-member. He did also give me the
stock >heads & headers, so my question is this: does
anyone >make "block huggers"  headers for a 78 F150
4x4? I >have not found any luck finding any so far.
Any >suggestions or help from people with experience
would .be greatly appreciated.
>-Jake
>Jake Kinnison
.jake airjunky.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://airjunky.com



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "FRITZ DOWE" <fdowe danet.net>
Subject: snow plow wiring
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 15:19:58 -0600


Hello everyone.  I just picked up a Western snowplow for one of my '79 Ford
trucks, and was hoping someone on the list also had one so I could get a
couple of questions answered.  I will only be plowing about 3 driveways with
it, so it will not be an all day affair.

First, can I get away with using only one battery and switching to a bigger
alternator?  It may turn out that I won't even put the aux. lights on the
plow if I only use it during the day.

Second, how should I run the wires to the solenoid?  The joystick has a
single black wire running from it to the "s" on the solenoid.  I figure that
this completes the ground circuit to energize the solenoid so the pump can
run.  Am I right?

Third, my pump motor has two terminals on it.  I figure one is for positive,
and the other is ground.  Which would be which.  And should the ground cable
run all the way back to the battery, or can it run down to the frame?

I apologize for all the questions, but the unit I bought came off of a
Bronco and was removed by the guy I bought it from and it didn't come with
any wire schematics.

TIA.

Fritz Dowe


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 15:11:10 -0800


Well I guess this is the start of my restoration project.  I picket up a 360
FE from Greg today.  Got it home fine.  Seems to rotate freely.

I checkt it out a little.  It has a 2 bbl carb and the block has a reverse
105 cast in it (yipee).

Question.  I remember seeing this.  I need to mount the block on my engine
stand.  What size and thread pitch of bolts should I get?

Thanks guys.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 18:18:37 EST
Subject: Re: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE


Length depends on your stand, but they are 7/16ths course thread.  Good luck
on your project.  Whats it gonna end up as? 390? 406? 410? 428?

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Air Junky" <jake airjunky.com>
Subject: Re: Header Problems
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 16:20:06 -0800


Thanks Dan,
   I do have a couple questions, but didn't see that you left your direct
email address.
      -Jake
Jake Kinnison
jake airjunky.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 12:54 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Header Problems


>
> Jake,
>
> Are those 4V Cleveland heads? Sanderson makes block
> huggers for 4V Cleveland heads. I am using Sanderson
> FC3 headers on my 400 w/4V Cleveland heads. The FC3
> headers are unique in that the passenger side header
> exits above the starter, that helps prevent starter
> overheating. If you have any other questions about
> this , send me an email directly. My truck is a '53
> F100 so I can only help if it is a motor question.
>
> Dan Lee
> '53 F100
> 400C-4V
>
>
> >From: "Air Junky" <jake airjunky.com>
> >Subject: Header problems
> >Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 23:24:25 -0800
>
> >Hello, I am new to your list, and somewhat to the
> >whole world of restoring an old pick-up to. I have
> >recently purchased a truck that was being restored,
> >but not finished. It is a '78 F150 4x4, 400 motor,
> 351 >heads, C6 trans, posi rear-end with 4:11 gears.
> My >current problem is this; the guy I bought it from
> had >some headers that were professionally modified to
> fit >the cleveland heads, but when I put them on it
> doesn't >look like there will be enough room to have a
> "y" pipe .made to go from the headers back to the
> single >exhaust. The reason is that the headers end to
> closely >to the cross-member. He did also give me the
> stock >heads & headers, so my question is this: does
> anyone >make "block huggers"  headers for a 78 F150
> 4x4? I >have not found any luck finding any so far.
> Any >suggestions or help from people with experience
> would .be greatly appreciated.
> >-Jake
> >Jake Kinnison
> .jake airjunky.com
> >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://airjunky.com
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Won't start
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 16:24:13 -0800


>
> An interesting point....I checked a battery that I had been
> keeping charged
> (I thought) on the shelf before throwing it in the bronco and
> it read 12.26v
> which is usually a good sign for a battery that has been
> sitting but on the
> first click of the key I got absolutely no response.  Checked
> it again and
> got 10v which obviously wasn't right either so I charged it up.
> Interestingly enough though, when I jumpped it the battery
> acted like it had
> considerable charge in it so the cables may have been at
> fault but I just
> found the Voltage drop on firt hit to be rather incredible :-)
>
> Typically you can charge them and immediately take a reading
> and it will be
> over 13v but after letting it sit for 1/2 hour it will come
> back down to
> 12---v and if you short it momentarily it will come down
> right away.  It's
> like there's a static residual of some kind in there :-)
>
<SNIP>

Actualy it is very possible for a bad battery to show full charge (12V or
more) with no load.  That's why they sell battery testers that will put a
load on the battery.  Simply put Voltage = pressure and Amps = volume of
flow.  Like in hydraulics (or plumbing) if you flow more current than your
source can supply pressure drops.  It is therefore possible for a battery to
show full voltage (pressure) at zero amps (no flow).  Also it is common for
a battery just comming of a charger to show high voltage and then drop a
short while later.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 16:24:13 -0800


<snip>

> The fuel pump
> that was on the engine had three places to connect a line to it.  I am
> assuming that this was because it had dual tanks.
<snip>

I don't think so.  If by 3 connections you mean 3 total including input and
output then it might be like a gm pump I saw (had) once.  1 input, 1 output
to carb and one return line to the tank.  There was a thermal valve in the
pump and if the gas got too hot it would open and return the warm gas to the
tank for a fresh cool charge.  Used mainly (only?) on air conditioned
vehicles.  I don't know if Ford used a similar setup.  I am sure that with
dual tanks both tanks fed a solenoid valve mounted mid-truck and an single
line went from the valve to the pump.  Now that I've said that if the 3rd
connection is a return then the solenoid would have to have provisions to
route the return gas to the correct tank.

> The other thing that a lot of people had mentioned was the
> timing.  The
> distributor hasn't been out or moved since the last time the
> engine ran.  I
> will check the timing anyway since that is what most people
> have suggested
> to me.  Is it possible that the timing could have been changed without
> moving anything?

YES!!! Jumped cog on the timing chain/sproket.  Hey you asked! :0)

> The more I think about everything that
> happened while
> trying to start the truck, I think it is more likely to be a
> fuel problem,
> but this is still easy enough to check.
>

This should be very easy to check.  If you're getting fuel to the carb you
should be able to look down the throat of the carb move the throttle full
range and see 2 streams of fuel shot into the primary bores from the
accelerator pump.  No steams no fuel in carb.  The other thing you could do
is pull the check plug on the carb bowl and just see fuel come out of the
bowl (top of fuel level should match the bottom of the plug hole.)

> Thank you everyone for the suggestions.  I can't do anything
> else until
> Tuesday since I have to start school again, but hopefully I
> will be able to
> get this thing running then.
>
> Eric Tobolski
>
>

Good luck.

Tom H

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 20:16:57 EST
Subject: wierd fuel pump/vapor lock


In a message dated 1/28/01 4:28:00 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com writes:

<<  I don't know if Ford used a similar setup >>

Cobra Jet cars that were equiped with Q-Jets were the ones that got that fuel
pump.  Thats one of the ways to identify a true cobra jet even if its been
torn apart.  Got that extra fuel line headin to the tank.  Been thinkin of
using one of these on my truck as it has a bad tendancy to vapor lock.  Or Im
gonna run a filterless car style pump (that reservoir is just a place to grab
heat) and an electric fuel pump.  Any ideas or comments on this?  Nuthin
ruins wheelin like goin wide open up a climb, only to be stuck at the top cuz
of sever vapor lock.  I was really hopin Edelbrock was planning an airgap
intake soon for the 429/460, but nooooooooooo  Cant do that, it aint a
chevy....  No biggie, that offy 360 outta work real nice :)

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: snow plow wiring
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 19:31:53 -0600


1one battery should be good
-2 yes your right it will be the ground you are completing withthe joy stick
3 most time the top most post on the pump is the ground and to the frame
will be good for the ground on the pump
---- Original Message -----
From: "FRITZ DOWE" <fdowe danet.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 3:19 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] snow plow wiring


>
> Hello everyone.  I just picked up a Western snowplow for one of my '79
Ford
> trucks, and was hoping someone on the list also had one so I could get a
> couple of questions answered.  I will only be plowing about 3 driveways
with
> it, so it will not be an all day affair.
>
> First, can I get away with using only one battery and switching to a
bigger
> alternator?  It may turn out that I won't even put the aux. lights on the
> plow if I only use it during the day.
>
> Second, how should I run the wires to the solenoid?  The joystick has a
> single black wire running from it to the "s" on the solenoid.  I figure
that
> this completes the ground circuit to energize the solenoid so the pump can
> run.  Am I right?
>
> Third, my pump motor has two terminals on it.  I figure one is for
positive,
> and the other is ground.  Which would be which.  And should the ground
cable
> run all the way back to the battery, or can it run down to the frame?
>
> I apologize for all the questions, but the unit I bought came off of a
> Bronco and was removed by the guy I bought it from and it didn't come with
> any wire schematics.
>
> TIA.
>
> Fritz Dowe
>


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 21:51:10 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The man


At 01:04 PM 1/28/01 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a substantial investment investment in my home and hope to make
>some money on it down the road,sell it and move into the country and
>retire.I like zoning regs.They help protect my investment.
>  Let's say bowtie Billy moves in next door and fills his yard with
>wrecked che*ies.
>  Then m*par Marv moves in acress from me and fills his yard with wrecked
>dod*ges.
>Let's just say the actions of Marv and Billy lower my property value by
>$20.000
>At what point does Billy's and Marv's private property rights over ride
>mine?

There is no right to make a profit on a real estate deal.

George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 23:27:30 EST
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY

In a message dated 1/27/2001 2:23:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
trendsetter4life yahoo.com writes:


> Ok i have to ask the question since i have to many parts sitting around the
> house i
> need to off is it worth my time to try and sell my o.e single barrel carb
> and intake
> been of the truck about 1 year after it was bought back in 79.  Also have
> O.E. hub
> caps and some other stuff just wondered if it was worth my time thanks for
> any input
>
>

I think as long as you can supply a picture with it your chances of selling
your goods is pretty good .

Steve     64  F100         351ci



------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 23:32:15 EST
Subject: Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY

In a message dated 1/27/2001 7:22:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
herrmann in-motion.net writes:


> BTW, another example is a set of NOS 65/66 Ford Parking Light Lens
> currently on ebay with a starting price of $45.00 .   You think  "no-way
> does Ford still have 35 year old lenes available", Think-Again Folks!
> Order Part Number C5TZ-13208A from your dealer and you can get them all day
> long for $16.16 each!! (Dealer cost is 10.67).  So look sharp!
>
> Dan
>

  Point well taken , but also keep in mind that there are also GREAT buys on
E-bay . Like stated   "  So look sharp "

Steve         64      F100     351ci






------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: The man
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 23:02:12 -0800

I would say he has a right to not have his property devalued by his
neighbors...

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "George Selby" <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 6:51 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: The man


>
> There is no right to make a profit on a real estate deal.
>




------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Engine bellhousing bolts for FE
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 04:41:34 -0800



>
>
> Length depends on your stand, but they are 7/16ths course
> thread.  Good luck
> on your project.  Whats it gonna end up as? 390? 406? 410? 428?
>
> Darrell & Tweety
>

Thanks, Still pondering that one.

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:44:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Won't start
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Actualy it is very possible for a bad battery to show full charge (12V or
> more) with no load.  That's why they sell battery testers that will put a
> load on the battery.  Simply put Voltage = pressure and Amps = volume of
> flow.  Like in hydraulics (or plumbing) if you flow more current than your
> source can supply pressure drops.  It is therefore possible for a battery to
> show full voltage (pressure) at zero amps (no flow).  Also it is common for
> a battery just comming of a charger to show high voltage and then drop a
> short while later.

And in addition, the 13.8 or 14.4 you read when the engine is running is the
alternator output. A six cell lead-acid battery can not output more than 12
volts.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: The man
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 06:14:14 -0800


While I agree I wouldn't want someone to open a scrapyard in the house next
door, I don't know that anyone has that as a "right".  As always there are
two sides.  The guy living next door to the slob might loose a little in
property value but if the other guy is forced to clean up or get rid of
everything, that might be the way he is earning his living.

If you want the assurance that no one will move in next door and do that
then move into one of those gated communities we've been complaining about.
But if you want the freedom from being hasseled by your neighbor for some of
the anal things these associations get wound up about then find a place
where the community will be lenient about it and realize that your neighbor
also will be able to do some things you don't care for.

There have been stories in this area of fishermen no longer being able to
store thier boats (lobster boats, very large) in their yards during off
season.  This was in Bath, you know where they BUILD ships.  Also
communities taking action against elderly or handicapped people because
thier property was cluttered.  In that case why couldn't the community pitch
in and offer to help clean up the property?  That has happened in my area as
well.

When I chose my home the previous owner built dump trucks in his side yard
(visible from 2 roads.  So I figure anything I do while the other original
owners are here will be small potatoes. :-)  Plus if they put up with him I
should have no problems.

As I do my restoration project I will make every effort to be considerate to
my neighbors.  There should be ways to camouflage the project so it appears
that the truck is still running. ":-)



>
> I would say he has a right to not have his property devalued by his
> neighbors...
>
> /// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George Selby" <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
> To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2001 6:51 PM
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: The man
>
>
> >
> > There is no right to make a profit on a real estate deal.
> >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:35:58 -0600
From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: 292 motor colors 1962 f100


>got motor out and at the machine shop. ? is what color is to be when I am
>done?  and thing to watch out for when reassembling??  any tricks to watch
>I know the 12 pin timing but what about oiling problems or ways to improve
>oil  to rockers.
>
The paint color is, actually, NONE.  On these motors, the long block was
left bare.  The intake manifold and rocker covers were Ford Red.  I painted
my long block black and with the red rocker covers and intake and then
black air cleaner it looked really sharp.
  _
_| ~~.  John Strauss
\, *_}  jstrauss inetport.com
  \(    Texas Fight!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 07:02:06 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Reno?




scott wrote:
>
> >>How about Reno?  What's the FTE situation there...Any
> >>Reno-ites(Renoians?) online...?
>
> Yes,and Renoite is correct.
<snip>
>  There are enough people here alredy tho...so stay home :)

You don't mind if I stop in 2 or 3 times a year to leave my money in
those slot machines, do you...?  Seems to keep your taxes down...

FTE content--the last couple of times I visited, I saw a Unibody parked
in a lot (wrecking yard?  shop?) just SW of the freeway on the way to
the airport...I couldn't get the damn shuttle driver to pull over,
though...



--
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://counterculture.ws
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 11:23:10 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Off-topic postings


Gang, we need to keep this mailing list on topic (ie,
61-79 Ford trucks).  Post off-topic items on the
appropriate forum on the web site.  Specifically, "the
man" thread has belongs in the General Conversation
forum on the web site.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: The man
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 08:40:49 -0800

There are certainly various layers and sides to the whole "be a good
neighbor" debate, most of which don't belong in this forum. I will say
however that homeowners associations are different animals from zoning laws.
Associations can restrict up to and including what kind of plants you put
in, how many weeds there are in your lawn, what kinds of vehicles you have
in the driveway, etc. Zoning laws in general only detail what kind of
activities can be performed on the property, i.e. industrial, commercial,
residential, etc. That of course is a whole different animal from homeowners
associations. Needless to say it pays to do some research before you buy.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2001 6:14 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: The man


>
> While I agree I wouldn't want someone to open a scrapyard in the house
next
> door, I don't know that anyone has that as a "right".  As always there are
> two sides.  The guy living next door to the slob might loose a little in
> property value but if the other guy is forced to clean up or get rid of
> everything, that might be the way he is earning his living.
>
> If you want the assurance that no one will move in next door and do that
> then move into one of those gated communities we've been complaining
about.
> But if you want the freedom from being hasseled by your neighbor for some
of
> the anal things these associations get wound up about then find a place
> where the community will be lenient about it and realize that your
neighbor
> also will be able to do some things you don't care for.
>
> There have been stories in this area of fishermen no longer being able to
> store thier boats (lobster boats, very large) in their yards during off
> season.  This was in Bath, you know where they BUILD ships.  Also
> communities taking action against elderly or handicapped people because
> thier property was cluttered.  In that case why couldn't the community
pitch
> in and offer to help clean up the property?  That has happened in my area
as
> well.
>
> When I chose my home the previous owner built dump trucks in his side yard
> (visible from 2 roads.  So I figure anything I do while the other original
> owners are here will be small potatoes. :-)  Plus if they put up with him
I
> should have no problems.
>
> As I do my restoration project I will make every effort to be considerate
to
> my neighbors.  There should be ways to camouflage the project so it
appears
> that the truck is still running. ":-)




------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 14:53:51 -0800


Went right over my head, sorry....should have mentioned that on older fords
there are several things that go wrong in the wiring.  Number one and most
common is the black plugs that connect the coil, dizzy and module in dura
spark systems.  Try unplugging them and plugging them back in several times
to clean off the terminals.  Also look at the green and red wires that go to
the coil for possible breaks or to ensure that the spade receiver has not
been pushed up when installing the cap on the coil.  Old wires will get pin
holes in the insulation and corrode from the inside leaving no sign but a
little green spot on the insulation where the green copper oxide is bleeding
through indicating a bad spot in the wire.  These are the two most common ....


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