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Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 13:04:08 -0500 (EST)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sat, 27 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 027

In This Issue:
Re: Engine won't start
Re: Engine won't start
NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Re: Engine won't start
Re: Engine won't start
Re: Hydraulic lifts
Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Header problems
292 motor colors 1962 f100
Won't start
Revenge
FE Engines
Re: the man
Re: Header problems
Re: The Man
Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Reno?
Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
A question on boxes
Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Re: Won't start
F-150 for sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 23:41:39 -0500


sounds like your timing is off. is the dist. set   at top dead center  on
the exhaust stroke of no. 1 piston.  (rotor pointing at no. 1 post on
dist. )
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Tobolski <garyt mediaone.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, January 26, 2001 3:46 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Engine won't start


>
>Hello.  I have been rebuilding my 78 Bronco, and went to start it today.
It
>will crank just fine, but it will not run.  I checked for spark at the
coil,
>and this was fine.  I then checked at the plugs.  There was spark, but not
>as often as I expected.  The fuel pump and lines are new, so I doubt this
is
>a problem.  I am still running the stock ignition system from my 78 Bronco.
>The engine is a 460 from an 86 F-250, and the starter is also from the
>Bronco.  A couple of times, it sounded as if the starter was being kicked
>backwards when I released the key.  After letting it sit for a little
while,
>and checking other things, the engine will no longer crank.  The battery
has
>plenty of power in it, but just to be sure I tried to jump t from my other
>vehicle.  The solenoid just makes one click, and then nothing.  The one
>other thing that seemed weird was that I could crank the engine from the
>solenoid with no key in the ignition.  I got no spark, but I thought that
>the engine wouldn't even crank like this.  Anyone have any suggestions for
>things I should check?  Thanks.
>Eric Tobolski
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=1194
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Shelley Batty" <shelba molalla.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 20:47:37 -0800


Did you place the plug wires on the distributor in the right order and
direction.  Some dizies turn clockwise, some counter-clockwise.  I'm not
meaning to sound mean here, I did it once on a buddy's rig.  He and I
rebuilt the 302, put all fresh parts in it, and installed the plug wires in
the proper firing order, but for a dizzy that runs clockwise (all of them
I'd worked on before did).  Well, many hours into the night later we took
another look at the motor manual, and realize the 302 dizzy turns
counter-clockwise. DoH!

Hope this helps.

Thom

66 F250 Utility

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Gary Tobolski
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 12:11 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Engine won't start



Hello.  I have been rebuilding my 78 Bronco, and went to start it today.  It
will crank just fine, but it will not run.  I checked for spark at the coil,
and this was fine.  I then checked at the plugs.  There was spark, but not
as often as I expected.  The fuel pump and lines are new, so I doubt this is
a problem.  I am still running the stock ignition system from my 78 Bronco.
The engine is a 460 from an 86 F-250, and the starter is also from the
Bronco.  A couple of times, it sounded as if the starter was being kicked
backwards when I released the key.  After letting it sit for a little while,
and checking other things, the engine will no longer crank.  The battery has
plenty of power in it, but just to be sure I tried to jump t from my other
vehicle.  The solenoid just makes one click, and then nothing.  The one
other thing that seemed weird was that I could crank the engine from the
solenoid with no key in the ignition.  I got no spark, but I thought that
the engine wouldn't even crank like this.  Anyone have any suggestions for
things I should check?  Thanks.
Eric Tobolski
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=1194



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 00:16:43 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY



Hi All!

As a mental note, please watch your bidding carefully when buying on EBAY.
I'm like the rest of you and need to save every penny I can when restoring
my old Fords.  But there is a couple of sellars on ebay that is getting
prices higher than Ford's Retail price for currently available items! They
hope that most people will believe that a 30 year old part has long since
been made obsolete. As I have preched to fellow FTE members before, this is
not always the case!! Ford still offers FAR more parts for there 60`s &
70`s F-Series Trucks than they do any of their Cars from these days.

For example:  In the past six weeks I have watched one sellar offer an NOS
Windshield Washer Reservor for the 68-70 F-Series TWO times. And both times
he sold these for over $45!!!!   Folks, this item is still available from
your local Ford dealer. Have them order part number C8TZ-17618A.  Current
retail price is $29.28  and for those of you with inside connections the
Dealer Cost is $17.57 . Many of the ebay auctions list the Ford Part
number. Take this number and call your local dealer for current pricing if
it is still available. The partsman will love you for having the number
already!!

Happy Shopping!

Dan Herrmann

1964 F100 Custom Cab
1966 F100 Custom Cab
1969 F100 Ranger
1975 F150 Explorer
1978 F150 Ranger XLT
1992 F150 Custom (daily driver)
1992 Tempo GL (wifes car)



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 00:08:35 -0800


So does ever other ford engine I've ever worked on :-)  I'm sure some on
this list will have a comment to make on that one :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> another look at the motor manual, and realize the 302 dizzy turns
> counter-clockwise. DoH!


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Engine won't start
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 00:22:50 -0800


Ok, the bronco probably came with the 3 pole starter but you should be using
the 4 pole with the solenoid on it.  Bolts on the same way and hooks up with
one wire just like the other one but has more torque.  You may have fried
the starter trying to start it. The 351m/400 takes the same dizzy as the 460
but the springs and other parts are somewhat different so a dizzy from a 460
is better but that won't prevent it from starting, just won't have the pep
it should.  Firing order is counter clockwise as you look down on the dizzy
as was pointed out and Number one cylinder is on the passenger side.  Ford
numbers are sequential per side so 1-4 is on passenger side etc., in case
you weren't aware of that.  New lines don't necessarily mean fuel is getting
through.  I'd still make sure you are getting plenty of juice at the carb
the old fashioned way by pulling the line and running it into a can.  460's
are typically cold blooded so don't be afraid to get some gas into it.  You
can dump nearly a pint of fuel in the carb at a time and it will just drink
it up :-)  I've had good luck with the cheap brand of hot shot too but have
been told by experts (dirt track racers) that too much will blow the heads
off and just got over an incident where I actually did flood an engine and
no amount of cranking would dry it out and hot shot didn't work either....I
had to actually pull the plugs, blast them, gap them and put them back in
before it would start and it started right up then :-) (that one had me
going cuz I'm used to them drying out quicker)

Nothing else occurs to me right now, hope this helps :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> The engine is a 460 from an 86 F-250, and the starter is also from the
> Bronco.  A couple of times, it sounded as if the starter was being kicked
> backwards when I released the key.  After letting it sit for a
> little while,
> and checking other things, the engine will no longer crank.  The
> battery has
> plenty of power


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic lifts
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 00:35:07 -0800


Azie, Azie, Azie, I would never do such a thing as that :-)  I'm thinking in
terms of something close to the ground to lift axles etc. so I don't have to
drag them and tear up the lawn :-)  I have a "Real" hydraulic lift,
remember?:-) (and it has mechanical safety built into it :-))  Even chain
is not safe to work under (and we all do that I'm sure) so invest in some
jack stands and stay out from under those chain falls :-)  I've taken lots
of chances in my life and never had a serious problem but I have always been
aware of these things and taken them into account so didn't put myself in
harms way in the "Normal" situations like these......I just pull 80' barns
down on myself because I didn't have quite enough chain....stuff like that
:-)  Dropped a full stake truck bed on myself one day too but that's another
story:-) (missed me but sheared my disk grinder right in half, clean as a
razor:-))

Before I knew any better and before I had actually seen one collapse I used
concrete and even cinder blocks (didn't have any money for tools in those
days) but even then I used wood to pad them to prevent stress fractures from
sharp metal contact with the blocks.  Got away with it but chills run down
my spine now every time I see anyone doing that.  I saw a 4x4 up on 4
similar blocks about 3' off the ground a guy was working on in his
yard....just cringed every time I drove by.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I'm sure both of you know this, but please always prop the
> vehicle with something
> strong enough to hold it up prior to getting underneath it and
> wrenching on it.
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 00:56:35 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY



Hello Again!

Just noticed another auction running now very similar to the example I
gave earlier. The sellar has up for bids a NOS Winshield Washer Reservor
for the 71-79 F-series trucks and many Bronco's. His starting bid is $22.00
.  You can order part number D1TZ-17618B from your local dealer and pay a
Retail price of $22.67 with no additional freight charges added. If you
have the dealer connection then their cost is only $13.60 .     FYI!

Take Care!

Dan Herrmann








At 12:16 AM 1/27/01 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi All!
>
> As a mental note, please watch your bidding carefully when buying on EBAY.
>I'm like the rest of you and need to save every penny I can when restoring
>my old Fords.  But there is a couple of sellars on ebay that is getting
>prices higher than Ford's Retail price for currently available items! They
>hope that most people will believe that a 30 year old part has long since
>been made obsolete. As I have preched to fellow FTE members before, this is
>not always the case!! Ford still offers FAR more parts for there 60`s &
>70`s F-Series Trucks than they do any of their Cars from these days.
>
>For example:  In the past six weeks I have watched one sellar offer an NOS
>Windshield Washer Reservor for the 68-70 F-Series TWO times. And both times
>he sold these for over $45!!!!   Folks, this item is still available from
>your local Ford dealer. Have them order part number C8TZ-17618A.  Current
>retail price is $29.28  and for those of you with inside connections the
>Dealer Cost is $17.57 . Many of the ebay auctions list the Ford Part
>number. Take this number and call your local dealer for current pricing if
>it is still available. The partsman will love you for having the number
>already!!
>
>Happy Shopping!
>
>Dan Herrmann
>
>1964 F100 Custom Cab
>1966 F100 Custom Cab
>1969 F100 Ranger
>1975 F150 Explorer
>1978 F150 Ranger XLT
>1992 F150 Custom (daily driver)
>1992 Tempo GL (wifes car)
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Air Junky" <jake airjunky.com>
Subject: Header problems
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 23:24:25 -0800

Hello, I am new to your list, and somewhat to the whole world of restoring
an old pick-up to. I have recently purchased a truck that was being
restored, but not finished. It is a '78 F150 4x4, 400 motor, 351 heads, C6
trans, posi rear-end with 4:11 gears. My current problem is this; the guy I
bought it from had some headers that were professionally modified to fit the
cleveland heads, but when I put them on it doesn't look like there will be
enough room to have a "y" pipe made to go from the headers back to the
single exhaust. The reason is that the headers end to closely to the
cross-member. He did also give me the stock heads & headers, so my question
is this: does anyone make "block huggers"  headers for a 78 F150 4x4? I have not
found any luck finding any so far. Any suggestions or help from people with
experience would be greatly appreciated.
        -Jake
Jake Kinnison
jake airjunky.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://airjunky.com


------------------------------

From: "David Lindenmayer" <davidl tbcnet.com>
Subject: 292 motor colors 1962 f100
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 01:25:28 -0600


got motor out and at the machine shop. ? is what color is to be when I am
done?  and thing to watch out for when reassembling??  any tricks to watch
I know the 12 pin timing but what about oiling problems or ways to improve
oil  to rockers.

thanks   Dave


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 04:09:52 -0800
Subject: Re: The Man
From: Don <duckdon mac.com>


on 1/26/01 11:28 AM, JUMPINFORD aol.com at JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:

>
> Sure can, and according to Nevada law, the gun can be loaded and kept out of
> sight, as your vehicle is an extension of your home.  Hows that for personal
> freedom!? Also, only 2 of our counties require Smog test. Clark, which is
> where Vegas, and I think Washoe which is around Reno.
>
> Darrell & Tweety
>

Hey Sign me up!  I bet you guys even have electricty 24 hours a day too.

Laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdon duckdon.com


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Won't start
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 09:19:24 -0600

Eric T. writes:  >> I have been rebuilding my 78 Bronco, and went to start it today.  It
will crank just fine, but it will not run.<<

I assume you mean it turns over OK, but will not start.

>> A couple of times, it sounded as if the starter was being kicked
backwards when I released the key.  After letting it sit for a little while,
and checking other things, the engine will no longer crank.  The battery has
plenty of power in it, but just to be sure I tried to jump t from my other
vehicle.<<

Usually a sure sign of too much timing advance..  Back it off a few degrees..

Did you have the distributor out??  If yes, then are you sure you timed it
correctly upon reinstalliation??

>>  The solenoid just makes one click, and then nothing. <<

Usually a sign of poor connections or a bad starter.  You said that your
battery was fully charged, so I'm assuming it is.  If you aren't sure it is,
then then that could be a problem.  Weak batteries tend to cause clicking
relays also..

>>The one other thing that seemed weird was that I could crank the engine
from the solenoid with no key in the ignition.  I got no spark, but I thought that
the engine wouldn't even crank like this.<<

No.. It will crank over with no key in ignition if you short the solenoid.

>> Anyone have any suggestions for things I should check? <<

Battery and connections and timing as suggested to above..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Revenge
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 09:24:42 -0600

Annie writes:  >> I know a hose is going to blow I will make sure I have someone
I really dislike under it<<

And I thought the guy that dribbled the oil on the neighbors driveway was cruel!!!!
Yikes!!

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 09:27:51 -0600
From: Al Evitts <albert brightok.net>
Subject: FE Engines


The Feb issue of Mustangs and Fords has a big article on FE engines.May
be a few things in there we didn't already know.

Al

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 11:36:00 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: the man


At 11:02 PM 1/26/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Then we have Homeowner associations where ever there are "new
>Developments". The associations are even worse.  My Boss just but a new
>house and her husband may have to get ride of his Ford 1 ton  Diesel dually
>because the association has rules against "loud" vehicles.  Plus too many
>other rules to list here that seem stupid to me.  In fact the state is
>investigating these associations to see if they have too much power.

If it has stock exhaust, I don't think they can do a thing to the
truck.  If a car or truck will pass state inspection and has plates, and
doesn't violate any other restrictive covenants (such as parking a
truck/boat on the street, or the truck has to go into the garage) then they
can't decide to enforce a stricter standard.  This sounds like a
questionable standard anyway - no loud vehicles - do they have a decibel
standard?  If not, I think that whole covenant could be successfully
challenged.

A more important question is why did they buy the house if they knew this
would be a problem?  Did they not read the covenants before purchase?

George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Header problems
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 08:42:58 -0800

The only people I've seen that make anything close to that is Sanderson

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.centuryperformance.com/Sanderson/index.htm

They advertise Cleveland headers that might fit.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Air Junky" <jake airjunky.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 11:24 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Header problems


> Hello, I am new to your list, and somewhat to the whole world of restoring
> an old pick-up to. I have recently purchased a truck that was being
> restored, but not finished. It is a '78 F150 4x4, 400 motor, 351 heads, C6
> trans, posi rear-end with 4:11 gears. My current problem is this; the guy
I
> bought it from had some headers that were professionally modified to fit
the
> cleveland heads, but when I put them on it doesn't look like there will be
> enough room to have a "y" pipe made to go from the headers back to the
> single exhaust. The reason is that the headers end to closely to the
> cross-member. He did also give me the stock heads & headers, so my
question
> is this: does anyone make "block huggers"  headers for a 78 F150 4x4? I
have not
> found any luck finding any so far. Any suggestions or help from people
with
> experience would be greatly appreciated.




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 11:46:35 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The Man


At 11:02 PM 1/26/01 -0500, you wrote:
>That would be a good starting point.  But in AZ the Individual City's have
>more to say about this than the State Does.  The county I live in, Emission
>Tests Vehicles, while most other Counties don't.  If you live in Pinal
>County, but commute to work in Maricopa County, guess what, you have to
>have your vehicle emission tested.

Actually the reason for this is FEDERAL government.  If a certain county
has enough 'pollution days' then they have to implement plans to reduce
pollution.  One of the first things they do is start testing cars for
emissions.  Here in NC, there are about 10 counties that have emissions
testing, the rest don't.  The bad news is our county was only 2 days away
from being forced to test last year.  The even stupider part is that our
country measuring station is in the far western part of the county, on a
strip that sticks out into the next county, and the prevailing wind is from
the south.  So we are eventually going to be tested because the county to
the southwest of us has pollution problems.  Incidentally this is the
county that contains the city of Goldsboro and Semour Johnson AFB (Gee I
wonder where the pollution comes from.)

George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
92 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:18:58 -0800


I saw bidding go up to over $80 for a steel exhaust donut that Ford still
offered for less than $30.

Tom H.
>
> Hi All!
>
> As a mental note, please watch your bidding carefully
> when buying on EBAY.
> I'm like the rest of you and need to save every penny I can
> when restoring
> my old Fords.  But there is a couple of sellars on ebay that
> is getting
> prices higher than Ford's Retail price for currently
> available items! They
> hope that most people will believe that a 30 year old part
> has long since
> been made obsolete. As I have preched to fellow FTE members
> before, this is
> not always the case!! Ford still offers FAR more parts for
> there 60`s &
> 70`s F-Series Trucks than they do any of their Cars from these days.
>
> For example:  In the past six weeks I have watched one sellar
> offer an NOS
> Windshield Washer Reservor for the 68-70 F-Series TWO times.
> And both times
> he sold these for over $45!!!!   Folks, this item is still
> available from
> your local Ford dealer. Have them order part number
> C8TZ-17618A.  Current
> retail price is $29.28  and for those of you with inside
> connections the
> Dealer Cost is $17.57 . Many of the ebay auctions list the Ford Part
> number. Take this number and call your local dealer for
> current pricing if
> it is still available. The partsman will love you for having
> the number
> already!!
>
> Happy Shopping!
>
> Dan Herrmann
>
> 1964 F100 Custom Cab
> 1966 F100 Custom Cab
> 1969 F100 Ranger
> 1975 F150 Explorer
> 1978 F150 Ranger XLT
> 1992 F150 Custom (daily driver)
> 1992 Tempo GL (wifes car)
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 10:24:58 -0800
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Reno?


>>How about Reno?  What's the FTE situation there...Any
>>Reno-ites(Renoians?) online...?

Yes,and Renoite is correct.

>>Also, only 2 of our counties require Smog test. Clark, which is
>>where Vegas, and I think Washoe which is around Reno.

That is accurrate,we have yearly test here in Washoe county,but there
are
counties without tests less than 20 miles away.
In these out lying areas you can have a wrecking yard, 10 horses
,chickens ,goats
and whatever else in your yard if you like.
The property prices,taxes and goverment service level is lower in these
areas.

In Washoe county you are required to have any vehicle that is not
registered or is incomplete behind a fence or in a building.This
ordinance is selectively enforced,usually after a complaint.
 What happens is someone will have a full blown wrecking yard in their
front yard and others in the area may have a car or two in the yard.Some
one complains about the wrecking yard,the Sheriff shows up and to be
"fair" everyone in the area with a violation is cited.
In the Reno city limits the rules are the same plus no vehicle can be
parked in the street that for more than 48 hours.This ordinance is also
selectively enforced.

I have a substantial investment investment in my home and hope to make
some money on it down the road,sell it and move into the country and
retire.I like zoning regs.They help protect my investment.
Let's say bowtie Billy moves in next door and fills his yard with
wrecked che*ies.
Then m*par Marv moves in acress from me and fills his yard with wrecked
dod*ges.
Let's just say the actions of Marv and Billy lower my property value by
$20.000
At what point does Billy's and Marv's private property rights over ride
mine?

BTW Reno is a beautiful area and has many car events including Hot
August Nights and
weekly cruises and numerous Poker Runs etc.
There is also ample 4x4 areas for every thing from the Rubicon to
desert racing within a 2 hour drive.
We have a paved oval track .a dirt oval and a drag srip all with a 1
1/2 hour drive.
We have the National Automobile Museum and Summit's west coast
distribution/retail center in the city limits.We usually have clean
air,good water,and a beutiful view of the Sierras.
There are enough people here alredy tho...so stay home :)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 11:23:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY


Ok i have to ask the question since i have to many parts sitting around the house i
need to off is it worth my time to try and sell my o.e single barrel carb and intake
been of the truck about 1 year after it was bought back in 79.  Also have O.E. hub
caps and some other stuff just wondered if it was worth my time thanks for any input


chris

=====
With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was fool proof he headed off to her place.  He yelled out his feelings amoung other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: A question on boxes
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 15:04:47 -0500

I have a question for you all; living in Ontario and having the joy of salt chewing at the sheet metal my box is getting lighter by the minute. A good southern box runs around $1000.00 to $1500.00Cdn., depending on the shape its in. I saw a fiberglass one from U.S. Body Source at www.usbody.com . Has anybody had any dealings with this company and know of their product quality? Thanks for any input.

Regards,

John
'77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 14:27:23 -0600
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Ok i have to ask the question since i have to many parts sitting around the
house i
> need to off is it worth my time to try and sell my o.e single barrel carb
> and intake
> been of the truck about 1 year after it was bought back in 79.  Also have O.E.
hub
> caps and some other stuff just wondered if it was worth my time thanks for

I save all of my OEM parts when I customize something. Custom equipment
breaks too. Did you ever notice how custom stuff is easier to find for new
trucks than it is for old trucks? What are you going to find 10 years from
now? There is always someone who buys a customized truck and wants it put
back to all original. You may have to look hard for a buyer, but I would try
to sell the parts first. Next I would give them to some one who would likely
use them before I would put them in a dumpster.

No comment on Ebay.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 19:14:44 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY


At 10:18 AM 1/27/01 -0800, you wrote:
>
>I saw bidding go up to over $80 for a steel exhaust donut that Ford still
>offered for less than $30.
>
>Tom H.



Another good example Tom!   All it takes is two people despirate for the
same item & willing to pay whatever they have to to get it and you have a
bidding war! I'm just suggesting that people check the Ford number that is
usually in the discription of the part and call their dealer for
availabilty & price. Most people are surprised to learn that Ford still
makes the item.

Dan Herrmann



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 19:33:05 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: NOS Truck Parts on EBAY


At 10:18 AM 1/27/01 -0800, you wrote:
>
>I saw bidding go up to over $80 for a steel exhaust donut that Ford still
>offered for less than $30.
>
>Tom H.



BTW, another example is a set of NOS 65/66 Ford Parking Light Lens
currently on ebay with a starting price of $45.00 .   You think  "no-way
does Ford still have 35 year old lenes available", Think-Again Folks!
Order Part Number C5TZ-13208A from your dealer and you can get them all day
long for $16.16 each!! (Dealer cost is 10.67).  So look sharp!

Dan



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 19:41:38 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann <herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]NOS Truck Parts on EBAY



Chris, this has to be up to you and your future plans for the truck. On the
other hand, original Ford truck parts and NOS parts sell very well on ebay.
It is a good way to dispose of them items you'll never need. And I have
seen an original 300 Intake sell for over $100 on ebay before.

Good Luck!

Dan Herrmann







At 11:23 AM 1/27/01 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Ok i have to ask the question since i have to many parts sitting around
the house i
>need to off is it worth my time to try and sell my o.e single barrel carb
and intake
>been of the truck about 1 year after it was bought back in 79.  Also have
O.E. hub
>caps and some other stuff just wondered if it was worth my time thanks for
any input
>
>
>chris
>
>=====


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Won't start
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 20:22:47 -0800


An interesting point....I checked a battery that I had been keeping charged
(I thought) on the shelf before throwing it in the bronco and it read 12.26v
which is usually a good sign for a battery that has been sitting but on the
first click of the key I got absolutely no response.  Checked it again and
got 10v which obviously wasn't right either so I charged it up.
Interestingly enough though, when I jumpped it the battery acted like it had
considerable charge in it so the cables may have been at fault but I just
found the Voltage drop on firt hit to be rather incredible :-)

Typically you can charge them and immediately take a reading and it will be
over 13v but after letting it sit for 1/2 hour it will come back down to
12---v and if you short it momentarily it will come down right away.  It's
like there's a static residual of some kind in there :-)

When I checked a friend's battery that would not crank but showed some
signes of presence I got 4v.  After charging it showed 12+ and during engine
run it showed 14.4v or so.  I've checked a lot of them but that one (first
mentioned above) was a little stange to me :-)  I wasn't very scientific
about it so it could just be a cable thing, not sure :-)  It's a new batter
but that doesn't mean anything as we all well know :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Usually a sign of poor connections or a bad starter.  You said that your
> battery was fully charged, so I'm assuming it is.  If you aren't
> sure it is,
> then then that could be a problem.  Weak batteries tend to cause clicking
> relays also..


------------------------------

From: north40 verinet.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 09:56:10 -0700
Subject: F-150 for sale


A friend from work has an F-150 for sale, I thought I'd pass it on. ....


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