Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Wed, 03 Jan 2001 22:56:55 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 22:56:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #2
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck  Mailing  List

Visit our  web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject  of  the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 02 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 002

In This Issue:
Transfer Cases
Re: engine swap
Re: engine swap
Re: Relays and alternator voltage
Re: Rust free bed wanted
Re: PF
Re: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Re: When to give up on a project.
the end of bad brakes
Re: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #1
Re: brakes
Re: brakes
Re: Fuel Guage Troubles
Re: Floor pan replacement
Re: When to give up on a project???
np203 to np205
Re: np203 to np205
Re: When to give up on a project???
Re: When to give up on a project???
Re: engine swap
Re: 351 Engine swap
Re: 351 Engine swap
Re: brakes
Re: When to give up on a project???
fixing bed rust
Re: fixing bed rust
Re: When to give up on a project???
Car Events in Pacific NW in 2001

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Phillips" <hosses kootenaycable.com>
Subject: Transfer Cases
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 20:04:05 -0700

My brother just bought a 77 f250 highboy. It has an auto transmission and an NP 203 transfer case. It also has those big (spicer?) locking hubs which aren't much use because he has to keep them in all the time. Does anyone know what all has to be done to swap in a NP 205 transfer case? Different drive shafts etc. Thanks, Tom.


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:02:52 EST
Subject: Re: engine swap

I used the frame mts. from a 82 F100 with a 302 in it.  Also the bellhousing
for the 4-Speed trans bolted right up to my 351W.  Took me a while to find a
starter couse the parts store told me I needed one that fits a 302
application.  I needed the one for a 300 IL.

Glenn  NY

78 F250



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:06:11 EST
Subject: Re: engine swap

Oh yea forgot about the clutch pivot.  After 5 yrs. bound to forget something
or is it just old age!!!

Glenn NY
78 F250



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Relays and alternator voltage
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:11:40 -0500


Thanks ERIC
first chance i get i want to try this on my 88 mercury lights and my 69
truck also IF i ever get it finished
gordon



------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 23:26:57 EST
Subject: Re: Rust free bed wanted


i have a complete and running 78 f150 that i plan to sell, it has a pretty
decent bed on it. i want 1200.00 for the whole truck, but its in georgia, a
little longer than a few hundred miles.

jeff

------------------------------

From: Fifty7F100 cs.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 23:38:28 EST
Subject: Re: PF


In a message dated 1/2/01 6:48:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:

<< Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 22:11:23 -0800
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Pigeon Forge 2001


Who's planning to attend Pigeon Forge this May?  If so what is the main
hotel/motel for the FTE group?  I'm making plane reservations to be able
to attend and would like to make accomodation reservations. >>

ME. Been to the last 2, wouldn't miss it for the world. Tim I'll bet it takes
me longer to get there than you.

Glenn in TN
57 F100 -- in process
93 Mercury Capri (you think parts are hard to find for the 57-60 F100's!)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 01:00:41 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski <theodore ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts


At 01:23 PM 1/2/01 -0500, you wrote:

>Current AFTE members will receive a pro-rated membership to Club
>FTE.  AFTE members should contact me off the list if they wish to
>join Club FTE.
>
>Regards,
>Ken Payne
>Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>http://www.ford-trucks.com
>

        Sounds great. Count me in !  You'll definitely have to let me know
where I stand as far as my AFTE membership goes. If I remember right it was
a deluxe membership.

                                                Thanks for everything you
do for us,

                                                                        Ted
Ted Wnorowski
                                                                        Fla
Flat Rock, OH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 07:14:18 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: When to give up on a project.


Hey there Eric.  Glad you didn't give up.  Couple of things.  I think I
have the tranny hump you need.  I will check the shelves when I get
home.  I have a 19 gallon rear gas tank that was bought new about 3-4
years ago and was removed about 6 months ago to put in a 33 gallon
Bronco tank.  .  I also have the rear straps for the 19 gallon tank.
Ask around your area, you may find a "back yard bodyman" that was
willing to weld in the pans.  I just did mine and the pans took mw about
4 hours to weld in once the area was preped.  You must remove all signs
of rust or it will return quickly.  All seams must be sealed (both
sides) once the seams are welded.

Good Luck
54 F-100
76 F-350 Crew cab
77 F-250 Supercab
79 Bronco.
Steve S.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/


------------------------------

From: "LaGrone, John" <John.LaGrone killeenisd.org>
Subject: the end of bad brakes
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 07:12:10 -0600

Well...we were all right and we were all wrong. Woohoo, I now have brakes
that will put you through the windshield if you aren't careful. The more I
thought about it and the more we discussed it, I kept coming back to a
balooning hose on the rear brakes. We all made the same assumption: That I
put the rear brakes back together correctly. Not. It seems that in my
blindness, I didn't engage the adjuster correctly into the rear shoe on the
right side. When I pulled the right rear drum, the end fell off of the
adjuster onto the driveway. It takes a lot of hydraulic fluid to engage the
brakes under these circumstances and another clue was the emergency brake
didn't hold like it should with new rear shoes. The brakes would work if you
pumped them, just like a balooning hose. I put it all back together
correctly this time, then adjusted the shoes out for the correct clearance.
I double checked the left side and adjusted those shoes out to the correct
clearance. Well, duh!! The emergency brake works correctly, the service
brakes works correctly, panic stops lock all four wheels like it should.

No, I don't regret replacing any of the parts, especially the proportioning
valve. As someome said, it is well worth it to save the grille shell,
grille, headlights, hood, front fenders, radiator support....I think I just
did this on one car recently.

Thanks to everyone who helped. It is wonderful to have a group you can trust
to talk things through.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6, Power BRAKES (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 02:43:25 -0500
From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #1



At 10:50 PM 1/2/01 -0500, you wrote:
>I need some help finding a rust free bed or just one in good shape for a
>project
>I am working on.

Good Luck.  I might suggest a trip out west if you really want one.  I got
lucky and after a year of looking, one good bed/ab combo rolled into the
junkyard 1/2 mile up the road from me.  Only cost $100.  Only surface rust,
and none over the wheel wells.  I live in Eastern NC.  I will (hopefully)
get the cab later this year, it is also rust free.

George Selby
78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd
86 Nissan 300ZX
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 08:27:32 -0600
From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: Re: brakes


John,

>plus I have been waiting for some enlightenment from the
>list...

I don't know if this counts as enlightenment, but I had a dickens of a time
bleeding the brakes on a '73 once (front disk I guess was standard from '73
on). What I ended up doing was getting a "one man bleeder kit" from the
auto parts store. It consisted of a metal ball check valve and a piece of
clear tubing. I also bought 2 quarts of brake fluid. I hooked up the one
man bleeder, opened up a wheel cylinder, and just wailed on it. I kept
topping up the MC. I know I pushed more than a quart of fluid through the
sytem. It sounds like an act of despiration (it was), but it worked. It is
the "high velocity" brake bleeding theory in action.

Doss Halsey
'67 F250


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: brakes
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 09:06:47 -0800


You bring up a good point Doss.  ("Just wailed on it") Air bubbles will
stick to the sides of the components sometimes to the extent that you can't
get them out unless you do have some type of pressure bleeding method which
allows for quick jabs to the system to shock it.  This is apparently true of
the MC especially but they can collect at line junctions as well as in the
Proportioning valve and even wheel cylinders.

I always consider gravity bleeding an emergency/initial method to get most
of the air out so the brakes will operate.  Most systems will still require
some kind of "Kick" to get it all out.  When I bench bleed I use alternate
short, quick jabs and long slow full pushes for this reason.  When doing a
two man bleed you should do the same thing to make sure all the bubbles are
out.

With manual brakes you can tell if there is even one bubble in the system
because they come up very hard with minimal pedal travel but with power
brakes it is nearly impossible to tell so you just have to try all the
tricks if they don't seem right to you.  Escort brakes are the mushyest
brakes I've ever worked on and if I have good brakes when I'm done
regardless of where the pedal goes I'm pretty happy but my trucks all seem
to have about the same feel when they are right.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> on). What I ended up doing was getting a "one man bleeder kit" from the
> auto parts store. It consisted of a metal ball check valve and a piece of
> clear tubing. I also bought 2 quarts of brake fluid. I hooked up the one
> man bleeder, opened up a wheel cylinder, and just wailed on it.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Guage Troubles
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 09:19:07 -0800


If you don't have a good body/frame ground you better check your body bolts
:-)  Granted, on rusty trucks it's possible for these 10 or so locations to
get corroded to the point that none of them will give a good connection but
if all bolts are intact and tight you should have a good connection
somewhere without using a strap.

OTOH, straps are always good insurance so don't put it off if you really
think it's the problem.  It will, at the very least, eliminate any
possibility of trouble later :-)  BTW, you absolutely do need a body strap
along with an engine strap at the very least.  I've heard about the horn
thing before but never had the problem myself....makes sense though,
especially in this modern world of plastic bearings which insulate
everything.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Good call, Don, your idea is now the frontrunner in my plan of attack.
> Didn't pick up on the fact that the heavy ground strap at the back of the
> motor is going only to the cab, which rides on rubber cushions
> mostly.  How
> DO we pick up the frame ground with any real confidence?


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 06:21:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Floor pan replacement


Steve,

I would greatly appreciate you checking on that tranny cover.  Also I'll
have to look a bit more closely at the rear frame to make sure I can mount
up a rear tank.  I think I found a friend of mine who can do the welding
on the floor pans for me.  I'm hoping to have it ready to go by Saturday
for him to weld up.

I've got a couple of additional body repair questions....

1. What guage steel should I use for the repairs to the pass. side floor
pans since I'm not replacing the entire pan.   I'm hoping I can just buy
it at Home Depot later today.

2. What type of seam should I plan for in the panels.  Should the metal
overlap (if so by how much) or should I try to get it to but together?
I'm not looking for originallity in this truck just functionality.

3. I read somewhere that in order to seal the seams I should use "flexible
body seam caulk".  Is this something I should be able to find at a local
parts store?  If I overlap then I'll have to seal both top and bottom
correct?

4. I was thinking of using POR-15 to finish off some of the surface rusted
areas.  Is that still a good idea?

BTW I'm hoping to get some pics of the body panels we spoke about last
month in the near future.  Just depends how long it takes me to prep the
floor pans.

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress again...)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred" (Project on hold)

--- Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM> wrote:
>
> Hey there Eric.  Glad you didn't give up.  Couple of things.  I think I
> have the tranny hump you need.  I will check the shelves when I get
> home.  I have a 19 gallon rear gas tank that was bought new about 3-4
> years ago and was removed about 6 months ago to put in a 33 gallon
> Bronco tank.  .  I also have the rear straps for the 19 gallon tank.
> Ask around your area, you may find a "back yard bodyman" that was
> willing to weld in the pans.  I just did mine and the pans took mw about
> 4 hours to weld in once the area was preped.  You must remove all signs
> of rust or it will return quickly.  All seams must be sealed (both
> sides) once the seams are welded.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 10:44:18 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: When to give up on a project???


Eric Finn wrote:
>

> 1. Does anyone have a transmission hump cover for a manual tranny with two
> holes in it that they'd be willing to sell me?  I've tried quite a few
> truck yards around here and I've found nothing on this one.  I need is it
> the next week or so.

Can't you just cut a new hole(s) in old hump for now?

> >James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com> wrote:
> > Sounds like booster may be leaking (no vac) and/or rusted inside. Do
> > brakes work well??
>
> Seems everyone says the same thing.  I'm almost positive that there is
> strong vacuum to the booster.  I know we hashed this out a while back but
> is the Bronco booster different from the F-350 booster?

No, not on 4WD. I think the 2WD camper and/or dually ??? had a much
bigger booster (dual diaphram, maybe?). 79 is different than 78 though
and not interchangable.

If not I've got a
> good '79 Bronco booster here I could use.

Can't use it on 78 unless you swap over al the mounting brackets (inside
and out), brake pedal, etc...

The brakes donít work well at
> all.  They are hard as a rock and very much toward the bottom of the pedal
> arc.

Does pedal pump up with engine off?

> Sorry for the confusion.  I'm talking about a side tank.  There was no
> rear tank on this truck when I bought it.  Maybe I'd be better off
> installing a used rear tank and scrapping the side tank for now.

From the looks of the pics, that may be the way to go.

> d it be possible to put in a rear tank and just use that one instead?
> It sounds like it might be cheaper than fixing the side tank.
>

Do you have both gas doors on the bed?

> That's the problem.  I feel that I do have the ability, just not the
> experience or first-hand knowledge.  I'm a helluva lot more comfortable
> working on it now than I was back in March I can tell you that.  Spending
> most weekends working on the truck will either drive you crazy or teach
> you something along the way.

OK, just seemed like in some of your past posts, you were on the verge
of driving it off a cliff :-).

> I know what you mean.  I love the 70's style
> Ford trucks.  I've had my Bronco for 9 years now and after I got it
> rebuilt the first time it ran a good 7 years before it needed much more
> than a tune-up.  I drove it 20K miles a year for 2 years while in school
> and it didn't complain at all.  I wouldnít have a problem installing a
> stock exhaust system but the only part of it thatís currently stock is the
> manifolds.
>

OK, I thought you were talking stock exh. Do they care about exh
configuration for emissions?

                             OX


--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 07:31:42 -0900
From: Matthew Schumacher <schu schu.net>
Subject: np203 to np205


ok,

I went to look at the 205 yesterday, and found that the adapter between
the t-case and the transmission was quite a bit longer on the 205.  I
don't think it will work because the output shaft on the transmission is
not long enough to seat well into the t-case with this other adapter.

Did Ford offer a different adapter that is shorter?  What do I need to
do to get around this?

thanks

schu

------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: np203 to np205
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 07:47:22 -0900


Hey Schu

How long is the one you have? Oh wait your running an auto, so it will be
different than mine in any case.....

C-6 / NP205 combo is pretty common. It should be pretty easy to find one of
those in the yards.  Of course now you have to either mod your cross member,
or start THAT search all over again. But, like I said, it is a common setup,
so should be easier to find than the one for your C-6 / NP203.  The NP205
you now have is a divorced case..right??  If so, did you check to see about
fitment to a adapter for a direct attachment to the trans adapter? Or is
that still a question?

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal




-Original Message-----
From: Matthew Schumacher <schu schu.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 7:42 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] np203 to np205


>
>ok,
>
>I went to look at the 205 yesterday, and found that the adapter between
>the t-case and the transmission was quite a bit longer on the 205.  I
>don't think it will work because the output shaft on the transmission is
>not long enough to seat well into the t-case with this other adapter.
>
>Did Ford offer a different adapter that is shorter?  What do I need to
>do to get around this?
>
>thanks
>
>schu
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 09:00:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: When to give up on a project???


--- James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com> wrote:
> Eric Finn wrote:
> > 1. Does anyone have a transmission hump cover for a manual tranny with
> two
> > holes in it that they'd be willing to sell me?  I've tried quite a few
> > truck yards around here and I've found nothing on this one.  I need is
> it
> > the next week or so.
>
> Can't you just cut a new hole(s) in old hump for now?

That's definitely a possibility for now if I can't find a good one.  I was
just looking for one with a better fit than what I could cobble together
around here....  If I can't come up with one in the next week I'll do just
that.  I've got two so if I mess one up I'm still ok.  Besides it gives me
a another reason to try my new Porter-Cable angle grinder...  <VBG>

> > Seems everyone says the same thing.  I'm almost positive that there is
> > strong vacuum to the booster.  I know we hashed this out a while back
> but
> > is the Bronco booster different from the F-350 booster?
>
> No, not on 4WD. I think the 2WD camper and/or dually ??? had a much
> bigger booster (dual diaphram, maybe?). 79 is different than 78 though
> and not interchangable.

Actually I'm talking about replacing the booster on the '79 F-350 with one
from a '79 Bronco I stripped.  From what you're saying they should bolt
right up then correct?  I'll have to see if I can find it and compare the
lengths of the rod out the back of the booster.  I seem to recall that was
where the most obvious difference lies.

> > The brakes donít work well at
> > all.  They are hard as a rock and very much toward the bottom of the
> > pedal arc.
>
> Does pedal pump up with engine off?

Don't know.  I'll have to try it when I go to pick it up from the shop
sometime this week.

> > Maybe I'd be better off
> > installing a used rear tank and scrapping the side tank for now.
>
> From the looks of the pics, that may be the way to go.

The strange part is the current side tank is fine it just needs a new
carrier/cradle.  The tank itself doesn't even appear to have any surface
rust on it...  I'll also have to check to see if the frame still has a
good place to mount the rear tank.  It may have gotten chopped up when the
flat-bed was installed...

> Do you have both gas doors on the bed?

No gas doors at all.  Its a flat-bed.  You can just make out the fuel door
in this pic at the rear above and inline with the mud-flap.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&showbigpic=1&ID=1340&pic=Drivers-side.jpg

>  OK, just seemed like in some of your past posts, you were on the verge
> of driving it off a cliff :-).

I might have been, or I might not have been.  :-)  Needless to say I've
come to my senses and I'm now working with a plan.  Bronco first then
F-350 as time/money permits.

>  OK, I thought you were talking stock exh. Do they care about exh
> configuration for emissions?

Not really, as long as you've got cats when they're called for they're
fine but the '79 F-350 is a Heavy Duty truck and therefore doesn't need
cats.

Thanks again for the help/advice on my projects.  Hey I should be pretty
comfortable with most all parts of these trucks by the time I'm done...

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress again...)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=788
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=1340
Personal Homepage w/ more pics
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 12:52:54 EST
Subject: Re: When to give up on a project???


In a message dated 1/3/01 9:00:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, ecfinn yahoo.com
writes:

<< The strange part is the current side tank is fine it just needs a new
carrier/cradle.  The tank itself doesn't even appear to have any surface
rust on it...  I'll also have to check to see if the frame still has a
good place to mount the rear tank.  It may have gotten chopped up when the
flat-bed was installed... >>

Would it be possible to fab your own straps from some strips of steel
yourself, and make it look stock?  I mean if the tank has been formed with
ribs to accept straps, I dont see how any shop could say it needs a cradle.
In case you havent seen how those straps work, one side hooks to a braket on
the frame, and the other side of the strap is held up to another braket with
a bolt.  That end of the strap doesnt reach all the way around, so you can
make it plentty tight with the bolt.  Somewhat like a turn buckle.  Also
depending on the vehicle, sometimes rubber is laid between the tank and the
straps.  Im sure someone out here can get a detailed pic of how it all is
supposed to look for you.  Sounds a lot easier than moving tanks around.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 09:59:56 -0800
From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: engine swap


Another thing to consider is upgrading the distributor to the Duraspark II breakerless.  It isnt a hard thing to do if you get the complete wiring harness, distributor, and control box together from wrecking yard or donor vehicle.  There are some good web sites with wiring diagrams, pictures, and instructions.  I have one book marked at home that I can reply with later.

Kenny


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 12:11:51 -0600
From: "Don Yerhot" <DYERHOT nwhealth.edu>
Subject: Re: 351 Engine swap

I've done the 351 swap on both a 65 and and a 74. You're right about the flywheel bolting up from the 300 six, but keep in mind that the 6 cylinder unit is a zero balance, while the 351 requires a 28 oz flywheel. (Later units are 50oz) Unless you balance the whole engine, you're going to have some serious problems with vibration.

DonY
65 F250-351W
74 F100-351W

-<<Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 09:03:06 -0800
From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: engine swap


The flywheel, clutch, and pressure plates were the same for my swap.  check the condition of all parts before reusing.  I found my throw out bearing had no grease left in it.  it has a grease zerk but no access holes to get to it!.

Kenny

>>> Don Harby <harby mim.atc.org> 01/02/01 09:31AM >>>

Will the 300 frame mounts work if moved to the back holes?  If not what
model truck do i need to get frame mounts from?  Also will 300
bellhouseing work?  I just need to locate all the parts before I start the
swap.>>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 10:21:00 -0800
From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: 351 Engine swap


I guess I sould clarify better.  The 302 I installed came with its original flywheel aready resurfaced and my clutch bolted up to it without any modifications.  Visually the flywheels I have from the 300's look identical.

Kenny

>>> "Don Yerhot" <DYERHOT nwhealth.edu> 01/03/01 10:11AM >>>
I've done the 351 swap on both a 65 and and a 74. You're right about the flywheel bolting up from the 300 six, but keep in mind that the 6 cylinder unit is a zero balance, while the 351 requires a 28 oz flywheel. (Later units are 50oz) Unless you balance the whole engine, you're going to have some serious problems with vibration.

DonY
65 F250-351W
74 F100-351W


------------------------------

From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
Subject: Re: brakes
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 11:33:43 -0700




-----Original Message-----
From: GaryBBB
...Rebuilt MC's are notorious for
not working out of the box...

AMEN!  Last time I replaced a master cylinder, I had to return the first
three rebuilt units, before getting a 'good' one.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 14:08:25 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: When to give up on a project???


Eric Finn wrote:

> > Can't you just cut a new hole(s) in old hump for now?
>
> That's definitely a possibility for now if I can't find a good one.  I was
> just looking for one with a better fit than what I could cobble together
> around here....  If I can't come up with one in the next week I'll do just
> that.  I've got two so if I mess one up I'm still ok.  Besides it gives me
> a another reason to try my new Porter-Cable angle grinder...  <VBG>
>

I'd think you would want to do that since your tranny (or body ) is
offset like you said. Might have to hack up even an original 4 spd hump
to make it fit???


> > > Seems everyone says the same thing.  I'm almost positive that there is
> > > strong vacuum to the booster.  I know we hashed this out a while back
> > but
> > > is the Bronco booster different from the F-350 booster?
> >
> > No, not on 4WD. I think the 2WD camper and/or dually ??? had a much
> > bigger booster (dual diaphram, maybe?). 79 is different than 78 though
> > and not interchangable.
>
> Actually I'm talking about replacing the booster on the '79 F-350 with one
> from a '79 Bronco I stripped.  From what you're saying they should bolt
> right up then correct?

Yes, they should.


> The strange part is the current side tank is fine it just needs a new
> carrier/cradle.  The tank itself doesn't even appear to have any surface
> rust on it...

In that case, I'd try to find a better condition factory shield and/or
use no shield and make new straps.

                                OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: "Curtis Crawford" <jdcrwfrd pld.com>
Subject: fixing bed rust
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 19:35:57 -0600

Hello, i am going to start repainting my pickup and I have some concerns over the rust above the back tires.  what way is the easiest/cheapest/longest lasting? I have looked so far at: new bed, new outer bed sides, weld in patches.  Which of these works the best? other ideas?
thanks
curt

78 f-150 Lariat
460 cid yellow & white
just say no to bondo


------------------------------

From: BRussAZ aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 21:01:15 EST
Subject: Re: fixing bed rust


In a message dated 1/3/01 5:32:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, jdcrwfrd pld.com
writes:

<< Hello, i am going to start repainting my pickup and I have some concerns
over the rust above the back tires.  what way is the easiest/cheapest/longest
lasting? I have looked so far at: new bed, new outer bed sides, weld in
patches.  Which of these works the best? other ideas?
thanks
curt

78 f-150 Lariat
460 cid yellow & white
just say no to bondo >>

Curt,
Is this serious rust or just surface?  Here in the SW we prefer controlled
sand blasting if its surface rust (which is pretty much all we have to
contend with).

Bill
65F100


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 21:23:56 EST
Subject: Re: When to give up on a project???

In a message dated 1/2/01 8:48:34 PM Central Standard Time, ecfinn yahoo.com
writes:


> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/
>
>
Just checked out your site think I might have the cover your looking for.
Have to dig it out give me a day or so to make sure I still have an extra.


Glenn  NY

78 F250



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 18:50:06 -0800
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman ....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.