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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:51:34 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:51:34 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #16 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Wed, 17 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 016 In This Issue: Re: 73-79 F250s Re: Ford 9" Re: Torque Converters Re: Ford 9" Re: Ford 9" ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... Re: Ford 9" Re: Ford 9" Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... Re: Torque Converters carburetor troubles Death of Dennis Lempicki Re: Build Sheet Info Re: 73-79 F250s Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... Re: Torque Converters Re: 73-79 F250s Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... 79 4x4 gear ratio Re: 73-79 F250s Re: 79 4x4 gear ratio 360 to 390 Leaking Valve Covers 360 question Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... Re: Leaking Valve Covers Re: carburetor troubles Re: Ford 9" Re: stuck np203 Re: 360 question Re: Leaking Valve Covers Re: carburetor troubles axles/gears/carrier swap 76-65 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: 73-79 F250s Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:39:13 -0800 All I have to say is... I LOVE MY 390!!!!! It is a torque monster, I surprise a lot of people with it. Garrett Nelson www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Jason Derra To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 5:03 PM Subject: [61-79-list] 73-79 F250s I've been thinking about buying a 73-79 F250 4wd. It will mostly be used for back and forth to work, but it will also be used to hauling a 8 ft cabover camper and a 7000 lb (gross) car trailer. I am debating between a few options. 1. What engine? 360/390 or the 351M/400. I haven't had much experience with the FE engines other than repairs. I have heard nothing but good things said about the reliability. But how well are they going to handle a 14,000 lb load on a hill? Fuel mileage? How about the 400? I've pretty much concluded that if it has a 351M, the 429 in my garage will go in it. 2. Tranny. C6 or 435? I know this is kind of a personal preference. Both are nearly bulletproof. I definetely want a 205 (part time) transfer case. Does that limit my options for a tranny choice? 3. power steering? If I get a pre 77, I think that integral power steering is one of the first things on the list. How much work is it to swap to the later steering box? 4. Highboy or not? Is there much of a difference in unloaded ride between the highboys and the later trucks? I know the highboys are limited for suspension lift choices. If I do lift, it would be just enough for 35's, maybe 36's. 5. Disc brake choices? I really want to stick to an open knuckle frontend. Do the 3/4 ton Dana 44's share the spindle bolt pattern with the 1/2t (6 bolt for drum and 5 for disc)? How about disc brake options for the 60? TIA. Any advice or any other thoughts would be appreciated Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke '77 F150 4WD 429 "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 18:46:19 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ford 9" Thanks all for your help... I finally got it all pulled apart and found out there was no gasket between 3rd memeber and axel ara just form a gasket wich allowed it to sit in deeper then should have and wore down the splines on it causing it to give way on me. So now $99 a side for axels and $36 for spider gears and $25 for the install kit I am waiting for it to be shipped to my door so i can reassemble thw whole thing abd be back on the road with the old girl. Now Heres anther question for the group. The bearing at the end of the axel I am assuming those are pressed on? And any other helpfull hints for setting up this axel I am pretty mechnically adept to, then again my buddy is a fordmechinc, but that is nnot saying much I knoew more about this 9" then he does. GUess He only gets the new toys work on....thanks in advance for the help Chris 1979 F-150 4x4 1992 Wrangler ===== With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was fool proof he headed off to her place. He yelled out his feelings amoung other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Torque Converters Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:19:29 -0500 JOHN i havent ever used these convertors myself or even heard of them for that matter i have used DAACO convertors tho and FAIRBANKS i repaced my OEM convertor in our t bird a year ago with a DAACO and it seems to be holding up very well so far the other type i have used in racing and had good luck with them the daaco convertor was 60.00 for a F/E engine gordon ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Ford 9" Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:23:28 -0500 if your going to set up a 9 inch rearend better off to let someone who has expierence doing them set it up for you they are durable but are touchy also if setup right they will run forever really and you can see what happens when they arent gordon ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:33:17 EST Subject: Re: Ford 9" The retaining ring is what is pressed on the axel, the bearing should just slide on with a slip fit. As far as the gasket goes on the ones I have worked on have a paper gasket or at least that thin. I have put several together with silicone and never had a problem with them(maybe just luck). Hardest part is making sure that backlash is corrrect. Glenn NY 78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches) ------------------------------ From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:49:01 EST Subject: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... Hey guys! What's up? Well, all day yesterday I let my friend drive my truck around. So last night as we were leavin the farm, she hops in the driver seat to drive home. She throws it into reverse not seeing my friends new Ford Ranger directly behind us <Hey, it was dark OK? LOL> and WHAM! Immediately she starts crying as I am laughing because I know there isn't even a scratch on my steel bumper and I know that his bumper is trashed. Anyways, my hitch receiver <He's lucky I didn't have the ball in> made a nice dent in his bumper, kinda resembles elvis w/ a curled lip! Luckily he is a REALLY nice guy and he wasn't too mad at her. Anyways, my advice is for everyone to get a steel bumper welded onto the frame of your truck like me cuz nothin short of a semi will dent that sucker! Especially if you are accident prone like myself. Last year a parent of a student I tutor backed her new car into the corner of my bumper and taco-ed her car, and she was afraid to tell ME about it for fear I might get mad! How funny! All I need is a grille guard thingy and I am all set......in reverse OR drive! LOL *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~* ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Ford 9" Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:53:45 -0800 All the axles I've worked on so far had the bearing pressed on pretty tight. The ring is about a 12 ton press but the bearing is just enough to be irritating....I've always had to press them to get them off but they aren't very tight, as you say. It's been a while be seems to me like the pinion depth shims actually go between the main case and the pinion housing. When I installed my 4.11 thick ring I had to take all the shims out to get even close to the factory spec and the pattern was pretty close so I let it go. I know the shims were fairly large in diameter but can't remember exactly where they went right at the moment. I thought backlash was the easy part? Just play with the adjusters until it's right. Pinion depth is always a pain to me because you have to keep taking it apart and trying different shims till the pattern comes out right..... -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > The retaining ring is what is pressed on the axel, the bearing > should just > slide on with a slip fit. > Hardest > part is making sure that backlash is corrrect. ------------------------------ From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Ford 9" Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:00:35 -0800 > I finally got it all pulled apart and found out there > was no gasket between 3rd memeber and axel ara just form a gasket wich allowed it to > sit in deeper then should have and wore down the splines on it causing it to give > way on me. I've used silicone on 9" rears for many years without a problem. Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke '77 F150 4WD 429 "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:58:45 -0800 Try plowing some time if you want to see confusion :-) It's real easy to forget where you are and nail the gas after dropping the blade only to discover you are heading in the wrong direction :-) Course you are shifting between drive and reverse every few seconds or so and fiddling with the blade controls, watching traffic and for parked cars and people and.......but it's a lot of fun just the same :-) Been driving for 40 years and still have trouble getting it into the right gear :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > to drive home. She throws it into reverse not seeing my friends new Ford > Ranger directly behind us <Hey, it was dark OK? LOL> and WHAM! ------------------------------ From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Torque Converters Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:45:22 -0500 > I have a question to run by everyone. While talking to the > Ford Motorsport Tech yesterday about C6's he recommended one > of three companies for a Torque Converter. CONE, ATI or > Transmission Specialties; I have to admit that I didn't know > of any of them. Does anyone have any info regarding these > (good or bad experience) and maybe a link to a Web site > (found nothing in searches so far) Thanks. > > John > '77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's I just recently got a torque converter for my 78 Bronco from transmission specialties. Their website is www.transmission-specialties.com. I've never been to the website though, so I don't know if there is any useful info on it. I haven't fired the truck up yet, hopefully this weekend, so the only experience I have with it was with the installation, which went smoothly. Also, when I got mine the box had two different part numbers on it, one for the C-6 and the other for the GM TH350. Of course, my box had the wrong part in it. They were good enough to overnight the right one to me free of charge since I planned on installing it in two days. Good luck. Eric Tobolski ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 00:28:36 -0500 From: Bill Logan <f10067 naxs.net>
Subject: carburetor troubles I'm running a 300 6cyl with the one barrel stock carburetor in my 1967 F100. When properly tuned, the motor purrs like a kitten. It had developed this irregular "spit" or sputter that bothered me, so I did a tune-up (new points, condenser, rotor, plugs, timed it per the specs, pcv valve, etc.); no change. It had been about ten years since I had the carbburetor rebuilt, so I decided to rebuild it. Bought the rebuild kit from Advance Auto. Never done it before. Thought it went ok, though there were some minor differences in the parts I had and the parts that came in the kit. Got it back together, and it runs, but it stalls on acceleration. The accelerator pump on the carb appears to be working; changing the mixture doesn't change it... I need the thing to run, and thought that the list might steer me in the right direction and save me some time in figuring out and correcting the problem. Thanks. Bill http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.naxs.com/wblogan/f100.html ------------------------------ From: "Tim Bowman" <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Death of Dennis Lempicki Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:55:03 -0800 On another Ford List I found the following: It is my sad responsibility to report the very sudden death of one of my best friends, and a fellow Galaxie lover many of you have met at Carlisle, and other events. My dear friend Dennis Lempicki died suddenly this morning, of a massive heart attack at his home in Fremont, Wisconsin. I arrived at his home this evening for a dinner date with he & his wife Lynne,and was greeted with the news. Dennis was due to start an extended vacation this friday, and he & I had already begun making plans for the trip to Carlisle, this June Most of you on these lists only knew him as Dennis, or Galaxie execpc, or
PGalaxie yahoo. Dennis only went after the high performance Ford products.
His barn and garage are full of 406, 427, 428 cars. Too many projects, too little time. Sounds like myself. No response to this is necessary. I just wanted to inform those who knew Dennis of his passing. > Russ Owens Dennis had a very low mileage 68 F100 and I had corresponded with him several times over the last few years. He was always very courteous and helpful and was looking forward to working on his FOMOCO's full time after retirement. I thought that many of you might have crossed "email paths" with Dennis. My sympathies go to his wife and family over their loss. Tim Bowman tkbowman qwest.net
website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman (Pacific NW Carshow information & more) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 00:03:22 -0600 From: barron <mustangalley adiis.net>
Subject: Re: Build Sheet Info Everyone, For the VIN information from Ford on American-made equipment you need to request "History 999" report from the American Ford Customer Assistance line at 800-392-3673. For Canadian made, you will need to call the Canadian Customer Service line at 800-565-3673 and request a Broadcast Sheet. According to Ford PR sources, information is available for only 67 to 88 models for right now. You only need to provide them with your VIN. This information on this service from Ford came from Mustang Monthly Magazine so please do not yell at me too loudly if it does not work as I have not had a chance to try it yet. Regards, Kim Barron 63 Fairlane 65 Mustang Coupe 65 Mustang Fastback 84 Mustang 20th Anniversary Car 71 F350 Dually 81 Club Wagon 82 Bronco 96 Bronco ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 02:21:58 EST Subject: Re: 73-79 F250s In a message dated 1/17/2001 5:05:24 PM Pacific Standard Time, derrar internetcds.com writes:
<< 1. What engine? 360/390 or the 351M/400. I haven't had much experience with the FE engines other than repairs. I have heard nothing but good things said about the reliability. But how well are they going to handle a 14,000 lb load on a hill? Fuel mileage? How about the 400? I've pretty much concluded that if it has a 351M, the 429 in my garage will go in it.>> Well Im more partial to the FE over the 351/400, but this is largely due to the fact that they were concieved with entirely different motives. The FE is and will always be a brute, where as the 351/400 in an unmodified state, always seem to be like the asthmatic kid trying to keep up in gym class. With a few mods, the 400 can be made to run just like a 390, plus the benfit of those awesome heads. However, this is all void if you were to go with the 429, which I believe is superior to the other said engines, especially since with extremely heavy loads, a shorter stroke seems to work better at speed, only lacking in the stop light to stop light area. But whos drag racing when your pullin that much weight? <<2. Tranny. C6 or 435? I know this is kind of a personal preference. Both are nearly bulletproof. I definetely want a 205 (part time) transfer case. Does that limit my options for a tranny choice?>> This is all personal choice, do you prefer clutch jobs, or tranny rebuilds? Do you mind shifting? What climate are you in? The only real difference I can see is with an auto, you have to do a real good job of cooling when your climbing in the heat, as the tranny will add quite a load to the cooling system. <<3. power steering? If I get a pre 77, I think that integral power steering is one of the first things on the list. How much work is it to swap to the later steering box?>> Cant help ya here, but Im curious too, Dads ram setup is getting on my last nerve. << 4. Highboy or not? Is there much of a difference in unloaded ride between the highboys and the later trucks? I know the highboys are limited for suspension lift choices. If I do lift, it would be just enough for 35's, maybe 36's.>> My uncles 78 F-250 seems to ride nicer than Dads 75, but that could be due to the 38's on dads which are a tad bouncy. On the otherhand, with a highboy, you dont need a lift to run 36's. His highboy is stock height with 38's and we've not had a problem with this setup in all the years we've had it. << 5. Disc brake choices? I really want to stick to an open knuckle frontend. Do the 3/4 ton Dana 44's share the spindle bolt pattern with the 1/2t (6 bolt for drum and 5 for disc)? How about disc brake options for the 60?>> Cant be sure of what years got disk, Im asuming its part of the 77+ design change. The dana 60 front end on Dads truck came off of a 79 F-350 4x4, so it has the large disk brakes on it. This front end was also seen on heavy duty crew cab F-250's. Hard to find parts for, but is by far the most bullet proof axle I've ever had experience with. TIA. Any advice or any other thoughts would be appreciated >> All of your points are valid, but to be fair, your just gonna have to see whats out there, and just find somethin that seems to suit your needs. From there you can work out any particular problems you have. Afterall, these trucks are easily modified so that you can have a 73 highboy with a 390 C6 with a married 205 tcase, dana 60 front with disk, 38's, and hell why your at it, how about a cd player? The perfect truck is out there, just gotta find it. Good luck. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 02:25:02 EST Subject: Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... Oh lisa, hast thou not learned the first commandment of truck ownership? Never let thy neighbor drive thine truck! Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 06:36:48 -0600 From: whynotbuyaPacer <dahorse jvlnet.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Converters Basically all three manufactures recommended are "high end" converter buildets and do alot of (almost all) the highperformance applications as well as many extreamly high quality replacement converters...my personal choise being Transmission Specialties. But they all build a great high quality converter. Norm > > I have a question to run by everyone. While talking to the > > Ford Motorsport Tech yesterday about C6's he recommended one > > of three companies for a Torque Converter. CONE, ATI or > > Transmission Specialties; I have to admit that I didn't know > > of any of them. Does anyone have any info regarding these > > (good or bad experience) and maybe a link to a Web site > > (found nothing in searches so far) Thanks. > > > > John > > '77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:26:14 -0500 From: William King <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 73-79 F250s Jason, I'll toss in my two cents about a good engine. I hauled a 6,000 lb. trailer w/ my 68 F100 (360, 2v, 4 speed Toploader and 3.25 rear) from Boston to Toledo (my truck weighs about 4400 lbs w/ me). Ran about 60 mph the whole way (even thru the Berkshires) and knocked down 11 mpg. I could have run 65 or 70 without breaking a sweat, but it takes the 360 a while to get up to speed with that kind of load. To be honest, that's the heaviest load I'd haul w/ a 360. Unloaded, my truck has hit between 10-16 mpgs. I'd build the 429 if you're tossing a camper on the back AND a trailer. The 429 in my 68 Torino is a torque-monster. That's my input... Ohio Bill 1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed 1968 Torino GT 429 4v 5 speed >1. What engine? 360/390 or the 351M/400. I haven't had much experience with >the FE engines other than repairs. I have heard nothing but good things >said about the reliability. But how well are they going to handle a 14,000 >lb load on a hill? Fuel mileage? How about the 400? I've pretty much >concluded that if it has a 351M, the 429 in my garage will go in it. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:01:32 -0800 Remember in "Back to the Future", only Biff could start his car? What was his reason for not fixing it? I wouldn't want anyone else to drive my bronco, there are simply too many things a novice can mess up....435's don't like to be raced or forced for instance and with wide 33's you definitely don't want to drive on pavement very far and the brakes aren't very good either even when they are factory perfect and it turns on a dime which can get you in trouble so I'm a little protective too :-) Then there's the bird with it's funky converter that no one seems to be able to feel chattering so they just keep the pedal down.....:-( What about that old truck with the West Coast, truck style mirrors that you can't easily adjust so only you can see out of them etc.......Yeah, trucks (vehicles) can be kinda personal :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Oh lisa, hast thou not learned the first commandment of truck ownership? > Never let thy neighbor drive thine truck! > > Darrell & Tweety > ------------------------------ From: "Jerry Summerall" <k7yvz qsl.net>
Subject: 79 4x4 gear ratio Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 07:07:21 -0700 First the restoration project of my 79 4x4 supercab is coming along ok. My first resto this involved and boy never realized it was so time consuming. Been working 8-10 hrs/ day for last three weeks and still have a few to go. I have 409 up front in the Dana 44 and 410 in the Dana 60 rear. I don't pull heavy loads and this gear ratio is to low. I was thinking putting in 354 or 373 gears. Any suggestions on which ratio to go with and where is a good place to buy gears if I should have trouble finding a used set. May look around for 1 ton set of axles. Other info is I am running 16 inch wheels instead of the 16.5's and powered by a 400. Maybe bigger tires will also resolve this problem. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 73-79 F250s Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:18:36 -0800 I'll chime in here and say I believe that, today, the 429/460 is the best truck engine out there. Everything about the design is simply better for heavy hauling. The fact that medium size farm trucks came with the 429 truck engine indicates that Ford must have felt that way too. I still thing I liked the way the 429 ran over the 460 but I've never really got the 460 to run as happy as I know it can (no money) so who knows? There are technical things you can say about all of them to give them some advantage but over all, you will be happier with the 429/460 for this IMHO. If I had a 400 already and a little cash I might build it simply due to the stroke advantage but it's not as tough an engine as the 385 series no matter what you do to it. Spend the same money on the 385 series engine and you will have more engine no matter how you slice it. The wedge heads on this design are also better for lugging. You have to try pretty hard to get them to spark knock due to the design. If you do a lot of trailering you will want the C-6. Clutches just don't hold up very well on a trailer truck due to slipping it so much when backing and also every time you leave a stop you have to slip it more than without a trailer unless you have a really well set up 5 or 6 speed tranny. It will also take something better than stock to handle the torque loads. If you take carefull precautions to properly cool the C-6 it will pull anything you want to throw at it. You can also get the wide ratio, which will probably already be in a 78/79 vehicle, and also add some plates to the low gear clutch (lincoln setup) for better life since low gear on a hauler will take most of the punishment. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > I've been thinking about buying a 73-79 F250 4wd. It will mostly be used > for back and forth to work, > but it will also be used to hauling a 8 ft cabover camper and a 7000 lb > (gross) car trailer. > > I am debating between a few options. > > 1. What engine? 360/390 or the 351M/400. I haven't had much > experience with > the FE engines other than repairs. I have heard nothing but good things > said about the reliability. But how well are they going to > handle a 14,000 > lb load on a hill? Fuel mileage? How about the 400? I've pretty much > concluded that if it has a 351M, the 429 in my garage will go in it. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 79 4x4 gear ratio Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:30:10 -0800 What size tires are you running now? 4.10 is the most common gear in the 3/4 tons because they are expected to haul loads. The stock 16.5" tires are also larger, stock, than any 15" stock tire. Most are in the 31" range even stock so the added gear is simply to offset this. Measure your tires, over all diameter and I will give you some numbers you can play with :-) For example, if you have 31" tires with 4.10 gears you will run 2720 rpm at 60 with 15" tires in the 29" range you would be turning 2907 rpm in top gear. Most stock truck engines like to run in the range of 2400-2500 rpm for best performance and economy but the cam has a lot to do with the "Happy Spot" so you can modify this any way you like up to a point with enough cash :-) With 31" tires you would need to go with gears in the range of 3.62 - 3.77 for this rpm range. I personally like to get closer to 2000 rpm but I don't pull trailers and that definitely changes the rpm requirments for best economy and performance. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > I have 409 up front in the Dana 44 and 410 in the Dana 60 rear. I > don't pull > heavy loads and this gear ratio is to low. I was thinking putting > in 354 or > 373 gears. Any suggestions on which ratio to go with and where is a good > place to buy gears if I should have trouble finding a used set. May look > around for 1 ton set of axles. Other info is I am running 16 inch wheels > instead of the 16.5's and powered by a 400. Maybe bigger tires will also > resolve this problem. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 360 to 390 Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:57:06 -0600 Jeff writes: >>, can I simply buy a rebuild kit for a 390 to put into the 360? Are the timing chain, cam, lifters, etc, the same?<< The only things different are the (1) Crankshaft, (2) Rods), and (3) Pistons. Aii else remains the same, except the power. You'll be pleasantly surprised the difference. Someone posted that they didn't think the 30 cubes from
360 to 390 would be noticeable, but I think it will be very noticeable.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: Raymond Parsons <rparsons conagrabeef.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:04:32 -0700 Subject: Leaking Valve Covers I am in need of the wisdom from the list: I just replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 352 and can not keep them from leaking. I used the Fel-Pro cork/rubber combo gasket and used Indian gasket sealer (the black tar like substance). I trued the valve covers as best as I could; they appear to be fairly flat and torqued the valve cover bolts to the correct rating per my shop manual. What do you guys suggest? They are leaking around the bolt holes. Should I use RTV gasket sealer around the bolt holes; if I do this, will I need to cover the entire gasket? Should I have purchased the all rubber gaskets? I am getting a fair amount of oil leakage; it is leaking enough that it smells in the cab. I just replaced a leaking intake gasket and would like to get it sealed up. I used the RTV on the key spots on the intake, but did not use any on the valve covers. As an aside; I replaced the diaphram clutch with a spring type Luk clutch and could not be happier! What a pleasure to shift. Now I guess I will have to find another way to work my calve muscles. Also suprising was a local Ford dealer had in stock the flywheel! TIA Ray Parsons 1967 F250 Camper Special ------------------------------ From: "Jeff Bennett" <jmb40 amexol.net>
Subject: 360 question Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:23:48 -0500 I'm planning to go ahead with a rebuild on a 360, and will be building it as a 390. Are the pistons the same size, or does the 390 have a bigger cyl bore? jeff ------------------------------ From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:45:19 EST Subject: Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN..... I totally agree! I think I am a lil overprotective too, granted, not much will happen to my truck if something does hit it, but it's nerve wracking to let a novice drive your truck who isn't used to driving a lifted truck <W/ west coast mirrors!> They don't know the lil quirks like you do, like how it takes awhile to warm up and ya gotta kick it down before ya start and how ya CAN'T go over speedbumps over 5 MPH or your airborne or how it doesn't turn quite as tight as a new truck does and how it needs a little encouragement going up hills.....LOL *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~* ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Valve Covers Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:49:00 -0800 If you did not flatten the area around the bolts before re-installing it (and it sounds like you did) the metal may be deformed so that it won't tighten down evenly. If you have the time to look for them, you should also install load spreading washers which aids in distributing the torque over a larger area and doesn't squish the gasket right under the bolt as much. I normally glue the gasket to the valve cover but not to the head. Some do both but I've found that if I can get the gasket to stay put long enough to tighten the bolts it rarely leaks with or without sealer. The Gasket Cement simply maintains the location of the gasket long enough to get it properly tightened without slipping out etc.. If you use sealer, make sure to get an even coating over the whole surface. I've been told (and it makes sense to me) that you should not ever use sealer on rubber gaskets. I highly recommend a non-hardening cemet also. I'm not at all impressed with Fel-Pro Yellow cement. Haven't tried Indian head yet but will get that soon too and try it out :-) I'm thinking 3-M window seal cement (the black gooy stuff) as a possibly better way to glue gaskets.....anyone try this yet? -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > I am in need of the wisdom from the list: I just replaced the valve cover > gaskets on my 352 and can not keep them from leaking. I used the Fel-Pro > cork/rubber combo gasket and used Indian gasket sealer (the black tar like > substance). I trued the valve covers as best as I could; they > appear to be > fairly flat and torqued the valve cover bolts to the correct > rating per my shop > manual. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: carburetor troubles Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 11:07:14 -0800 Couple of possibilities come to mind: 1..Worn throttle shaft which allows air to enter at each end of the shaft, leaning the mixture 2..Leaking intake gasket somewhere 3..Other vacuum leak 4..Float level imporperly set when rebuilding it Vacuum leaks can make the carburetor settings seem invisible to the engine at times so I'd persue this in your case. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > rebuild it. Bought the rebuild kit from Advance Auto. Never done > it before. Thought it went ok, though there were some minor > differences in the parts I had and the parts that came in the > kit. Got it back together, and it runs, but it stalls on > acceleration. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Ford 9" Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 11:10:46 -0800 Just occured to me what you said here :-) The junction between the housing and third member is insignificant to the diff performance but may impact on the side gear wear if the fit is bad enough I suppose. Sealer is fine in this location as long as all surfaces are free from damage or dirt etc.... The junction between the third member and the pinion housing is important since this can, and does affect the pinion depth. -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > was no gasket between 3rd memeber and axel ara just form a gasket > wich allowed it to ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 18:44:34 GMT Subject: Re: stuck np203 >I just put another np203 with the part time kit my my truck, but I have >been having trouble figuring out how the linkage when it. Does anyone >have a picture handy so I can see how it goes. > No pics handy, sorry ... if you still don't have it straightened out lemme know I can crawl under there and get what you need hopefully ... >Also, while playing with the linkage, I managed to get my t-case stuck >in low range. I can't seem to get it out, even when the linkage >removed. Any ideas? > Mine did this once, took it to the dealer and they told me the shift forks had popped out of the shifter linkage and had to actually go in and re-set it, they also put some new nylon bushings in there. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: 360 question Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:02:53 -0800 > > > > I'm planning to go ahead with a rebuild on a 360, and will be > building it as a 390. Are the pistons the same size, or does > the 390 have a bigger cyl bore? > > jeff > Same bore but the 390 pistions have 'slipper skirts' to clear the crankshaft counterbalance weights. The 390 has a longer stroke so at bottom dead center the piston is closer to the crankshaft and without the slipper skirt there would be an interference. Tom H ------------------------------ From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking Valve Covers Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:06:28 -0500 Try the 100% neoprene rubber valve cover gaskets. They cost about 50% more than the standard cork/rubber types, but are well worth the price IMHO. They are thicker, to deal with bent covers, require no sealer, and are completely re-useable. I put a pair on my 351M and have never had a drip since. Got mine at Advaance Auto, but you should be able to find 'em at any chain or NAPA, etc.... good luck Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: Raymond Parsons <rparsons conagrabeef.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 10:04 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Leaking Valve Covers > > > > I am in need of the wisdom from the list: I just replaced the valve cover > gaskets on my 352 and can not keep them from leaking. I used the Fel-Pro > cork/rubber combo gasket and used Indian gasket sealer (the black tar like > substance). I trued the valve covers as best as I could; they appear to be > fairly flat and torqued the valve cover bolts to the correct rating per my shop > manual. What do you guys suggest? They are leaking around the bolt holes. > Should I use RTV gasket sealer around the bolt holes; if I do this, will I need > to cover the entire gasket? Should I have purchased the all rubber gaskets? I > am getting a fair amount of oil leakage; it is leaking enough that it smells in > the cab. I just replaced a leaking intake gasket and would like to get it > sealed up. I used the RTV on the key spots on the intake, but did not use any > on the valve covers. > > As an aside; I replaced the diaphram clutch with a spring type Luk clutch and > could not be happier! What a pleasure to shift. Now I guess I will have to > find another way to work my calve muscles. Also suprising was a local Ford > dealer had in stock the flywheel! > > TIA > Ray Parsons > 1967 F250 Camper Special > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:59:46 -0500 From: Bill Logan <f10067 naxs.net>
Subject: Re: carburetor troubles On Thu, Jan 18, 2001 at 11:07:14AM -0800, GaryBBB wrote: > > Couple of possibilities come to mind: > > 1..Worn throttle shaft which allows air to enter at each end of the shaft, > leaning the mixture > 2..Leaking intake gasket somewhere > 3..Other vacuum leak > 4..Float level imporperly set when rebuilding it > > Vacuum leaks can make the carburetor settings seem invisible to the engine > at times so I'd persue this in your case. I thought about numbers 2 and 3. So I checked it out and to the best of my knowledge, all gaskets are properly seated and there is no vacuum leak. Regarding number 1: prior to the rebuild I wasn't experiencing this hesitation on accelaration. Could removing the carb have disturbed the throttle shaft somehow and made it leak? How can I check this? Of the four possibilities, I sort of suspect number 4 - mostly because it would be the most difficult to repair (one of those Murphy's law things). The reason for my suspicion is that the old needle valve assembly and the needle valve that came with the rebuild kit were completely different. And though I used the guage supplied with the kit (looks like a little framing square) to compare the two assemblies while installed and set the float to the specs, I may have made a mistake. Perhaps I got the wrong kit and have the wrong needle valve in there now. The old needle valve assembly consisted of a brass sleeve with holes near the seat end, and an o-ring around the outside of the sleeve, above the holes, and a hexagonal, aluminum looking needle valve which was flat on the top with a sort of floating rubber disc on it (not the typical needle that comes to a point). The valve that came with the kit was the typical (at least in my very limited experience) triangular shaped, brass needle that comes to a point. The new needle fit snuggly in the opening, and appeared to be of the same lenth as the other assembly, so I put it in, checked the float height, and closed it up. I would replace the new with the old, but in trying to decide what to do I damaged the o-ring on that brass sleeve so that I can't trust it. And I have my doubts that I can locate another of the rings - it's so small. One other thing to be sure I've fully described the problem: it is a momentary hesitation on acceleration. With the air cleaner on (old oil bath type) and the choke wide open, it hesitates on acceleration. With the air cleaner on and the choke closed a bit, it doesn't hesitate. Likewise, with the air cleaner off and the choke completely open, it does not hesitate. Makes me think it is running lean; but as I said, the mixture needle has no effect on this problem. Otherwise, the rebuild seems to have corrected the original sputtering problem I was trying to fix, and the thing runs great. Thanks for the suggestions. Any further help will be greatly appreciated. (Sorry this is so long.) Bill P.S. I searched the tech articles on the FTE site and, and also tried searching the archives for the list. But the tech articles gave no help on this particular problem (though I've learned a lot from reading them), and in response to the "index" command to listar I get a reply that the archives are for administrators only. Is it possible to search the archives somehow? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:43:41 -0600 From: Bruce Montcombroux <montcom BrandonU.CA>
Subject: axles/gears/carrier swap 76-65 Suggestions..? The drivers side axle tube on my 76 ½ ton 4x4 has a spilt that was welded at .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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