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Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 15:51:34 -0500 (EST)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 17 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 016

In This Issue:
Re: 73-79 F250s
Re: Ford 9"
Re: Torque Converters
Re: Ford 9"
Re: Ford 9"
ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....
Re: Ford 9"
Re: Ford 9"
Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....
Re: Torque Converters
carburetor troubles
Death of Dennis Lempicki
Re: Build Sheet Info
Re: 73-79 F250s
Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....
Re: Torque Converters
Re: 73-79 F250s
Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....
79 4x4 gear ratio
Re: 73-79 F250s
Re: 79 4x4 gear ratio
360 to 390
Leaking Valve Covers
360 question
Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....
Re: Leaking Valve Covers
Re: carburetor troubles
Re: Ford 9"
Re: stuck np203
Re: 360 question
Re: Leaking Valve Covers
Re: carburetor troubles
axles/gears/carrier swap 76-65

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: 73-79 F250s
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:39:13 -0800

All I have to say is... I LOVE MY 390!!!!! It is a torque monster, I surprise a lot of people with it.


Garrett Nelson
www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Jason Derra
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 5:03 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] 73-79 F250s



 I've been thinking about buying a 73-79 F250 4wd.  It will mostly be used
 for back and forth to work,
 but it will also be used to hauling a 8 ft cabover camper and a 7000 lb
 (gross) car trailer.

 I am debating between a few options.

 1. What engine? 360/390 or the 351M/400.  I haven't had much experience with
 the FE engines other than repairs.  I have heard nothing but good things
 said about the reliability.  But how well are they going to handle a 14,000
 lb load on a hill?  Fuel mileage?  How about the 400?  I've pretty much
 concluded that if it has a 351M, the 429 in my garage will go in it.

 2. Tranny.  C6 or 435?  I know this is kind of a personal preference.  Both
 are nearly bulletproof.
 I definetely want a 205 (part time) transfer case. Does that limit my
 options for a tranny choice?

 3. power steering?  If I get a pre 77, I think that integral power steering
 is one of the first things on the list.
 How much work is it to swap to the later steering box?

  4. Highboy or not?  Is there much of a difference in unloaded ride between
 the highboys and the later trucks?  I know the highboys are limited for
 suspension lift choices.  If I do lift, it would be just enough for 35's,
 maybe 36's.

 5. Disc brake choices?  I really want to stick to an open knuckle frontend.
 Do the 3/4 ton Dana 44's share the spindle bolt pattern with the 1/2t (6
 bolt for drum and 5 for disc)?  How about disc brake options for the 60?

 TIA.  Any advice or any other thoughts would be appreciated

 Jason
 '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
 '77 F150 4WD 429
 "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"






------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 18:46:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ford 9"


Thanks all for your help... I finally got it all pulled apart and found out there
was no gasket between 3rd memeber and axel ara just form a gasket wich allowed it to
sit in deeper then should have and wore down the splines on it causing it to give
way on me.  So now $99 a side for axels and $36 for spider gears and $25 for the
install kit I am waiting for it to be shipped to my door so i can reassemble thw
whole thing abd be back on the road with the old girl.  Now Heres anther question
for the group.  The bearing at the end of the axel I am assuming those are pressed
on?  And any other helpfull hints for setting up this axel I am pretty mechnically
adept to, then again my buddy is a fordmechinc, but that is nnot saying much I knoew
more about this 9" then he does.  GUess He only gets the new toys work on....thanks
in advance for the help


Chris
1979 F-150 4x4
1992 Wrangler

=====
With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was fool proof he headed off to her place. He yelled out his feelings amoung other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Torque Converters
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:19:29 -0500


JOHN
i havent ever used these convertors myself or even heard of them for that
matter i have used DAACO convertors tho and FAIRBANKS i repaced my OEM
convertor in our t bird a year ago with a DAACO and it seems to be holding
up very well so far the other type i have used in racing and had good luck
with them
the daaco convertor was 60.00 for a F/E  engine
gordon



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Ford 9"
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:23:28 -0500


if your going to set up a 9 inch rearend better off to let someone who has
expierence doing them set it up for you they are durable but are touchy also
if setup right they will run forever really and you can see what happens
when they arent
gordon



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:33:17 EST
Subject: Re: Ford 9"

The retaining ring is what is pressed on the axel, the bearing should just
slide on with a slip fit. As far as the gasket goes on the ones I have worked
on have a paper gasket or at least that thin.  I have put several together
with silicone and never had a problem with them(maybe just luck).  Hardest
part is making sure that backlash is corrrect.

Glenn NY

78  F250 (talk about projects and headaches)



------------------------------

From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:49:01 EST
Subject: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....


Hey guys! What's up? Well, all day yesterday I let my friend drive my truck
around. So last night as we were leavin the farm, she hops in the driver seat
to drive home. She throws it into reverse not seeing my friends new Ford
Ranger directly behind us <Hey, it was dark OK? LOL> and WHAM! Immediately
she starts crying as I am laughing because I know there isn't even a scratch
on my steel bumper and I know that his bumper is trashed. Anyways, my hitch
receiver <He's lucky I didn't have the ball in> made a nice dent in his
bumper, kinda resembles elvis w/ a curled lip! Luckily he is a REALLY nice
guy and he wasn't too mad at her. Anyways, my advice is for everyone to get a
steel bumper welded onto the frame of your truck like me cuz nothin short of
a semi will dent that sucker! Especially if you are accident prone like
myself. Last year a parent of a student I tutor backed her new car into the
corner of my bumper and taco-ed her car, and she was afraid to tell ME about
it for fear I might get mad! How funny! All I need is a grille guard thingy
and I am all set......in reverse OR drive! LOL

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Ford 9"
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:53:45 -0800


All the axles I've worked on so far had the bearing pressed on pretty tight.
The ring is about a 12 ton press but the bearing is just enough to be
irritating....I've always had to press them to get them off but they aren't
very tight, as you say.

It's been a while be seems to me like the pinion depth shims actually go
between the main case and the pinion housing.  When I installed my 4.11
thick ring I had to take all the shims out to get even close to the factory
spec and the pattern was pretty close so I let it go.  I know the shims were
fairly large in diameter but can't remember exactly where they went right at
the moment.

I thought backlash was the easy part?  Just play with the adjusters until
it's right.  Pinion depth is always a pain to me because you have to keep
taking it apart and trying different shims till the pattern comes out
right.....

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> The retaining ring is what is pressed on the axel, the bearing
> should just
> slide on with a slip fit.

>  Hardest
> part is making sure that backlash is corrrect.


------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Ford 9"
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 20:00:35 -0800




> I finally got it all pulled apart and found out there
> was no gasket between 3rd memeber and axel ara just form a gasket wich
allowed it to
> sit in deeper then should have and wore down the splines on it causing it
to give
> way on me.

I've used silicone on 9" rears for many years without a problem.

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
'77 F150 4WD 429
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"




------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:58:45 -0800


Try plowing some time if you want to see confusion :-)  It's real easy to
forget where you are and nail the gas after dropping the blade only to
discover you are heading in the wrong direction :-)  Course you are shifting
between drive and reverse every few seconds or so and fiddling with the
blade controls, watching traffic and for parked cars and people
and.......but it's a lot of fun just the same :-)  Been driving for 40 years
and still have trouble getting it into the right gear :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> to drive home. She throws it into reverse not seeing my friends new Ford
> Ranger directly behind us <Hey, it was dark OK? LOL> and WHAM!


------------------------------

From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Torque Converters
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 22:45:22 -0500


> I have a question to run by everyone. While talking to the
> Ford Motorsport Tech yesterday about C6's he recommended one
> of three companies for a Torque Converter. CONE, ATI or
> Transmission Specialties; I have to admit that I didn't know
> of any of them. Does anyone have any info regarding these
> (good or bad experience) and maybe a link to a Web site
> (found nothing in searches so far) Thanks.
>
> John
> '77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's

I just recently got a torque converter for my 78 Bronco from transmission
specialties.  Their website is www.transmission-specialties.com.  I've never
been to the website though, so I don't know if there is any useful info on
it.  I haven't fired the truck up yet, hopefully this weekend, so the only
experience I have with it was with the installation, which went smoothly.
Also, when I got mine the box had two different part numbers on it, one for
the C-6 and the other for the GM TH350.  Of course, my box had the wrong
part in it.  They were good enough to overnight the right one to me free of
charge since I planned on installing it in two days.  Good luck.
Eric Tobolski


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 00:28:36 -0500
From: Bill Logan <f10067 naxs.net>
Subject: carburetor troubles


I'm running a 300 6cyl with the one barrel stock carburetor in my
1967 F100. When properly tuned, the motor purrs like a kitten. It
had developed this irregular "spit" or sputter that bothered me,
so I did a tune-up (new points, condenser, rotor, plugs, timed it
per the specs, pcv valve, etc.); no change. It had been about ten
years since I had the carbburetor rebuilt, so I decided to
rebuild it. Bought the rebuild kit from Advance Auto. Never done
it before. Thought it went ok, though there were some minor
differences in the parts I had and the parts that came in the
kit. Got it back together, and it runs, but it stalls on
acceleration. The accelerator pump on the carb appears to be
working; changing the mixture doesn't change it... I need the
thing to run, and thought that the list might steer me in the
right direction and save me some time in figuring out and
correcting the problem. Thanks.

Bill
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.naxs.com/wblogan/f100.html

------------------------------

From: "Tim Bowman" <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Death of Dennis Lempicki
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 21:55:03 -0800


On another Ford List I found the following:

   It is my sad responsibility to report the very sudden death of one of my
best friends, and a fellow Galaxie lover many of you have met at Carlisle,
and other events.
  My dear friend Dennis Lempicki died suddenly this morning, of a massive
heart attack at his home in Fremont, Wisconsin. I arrived at his home this
evening for a dinner date with he & his wife Lynne,and was greeted with the
news.
  Dennis was due to start an extended vacation this friday, and he & I had
already begun making plans for the trip to Carlisle, this June
  Most of you on these lists only knew him as Dennis, or Galaxie execpc, or
PGalaxie yahoo. Dennis only went after the high performance Ford products.
His barn and garage are full of 406, 427, 428 cars. Too many projects, too
little time. Sounds like myself.
  No response to this is necessary. I just wanted to inform those who knew
Dennis of his passing.

> Russ Owens


Dennis had a very low mileage 68 F100 and I had corresponded with him
several times over the last few years.  He was always very courteous and
helpful and was looking forward to working on his FOMOCO's full time after
retirement.  I thought that many of you might have crossed "email paths"
with Dennis.  My sympathies go to his wife and family over their loss.



Tim Bowman
tkbowman qwest.net
website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman
(Pacific NW Carshow information & more)



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 00:03:22 -0600
From: barron <mustangalley adiis.net>
Subject: Re: Build Sheet Info


Everyone,

For the VIN information from Ford on American-made equipment you need to
request "History 999" report from the American Ford Customer Assistance
line at 800-392-3673.  For Canadian made, you will need to call the
Canadian Customer Service line at 800-565-3673 and request a Broadcast
Sheet.  According to Ford PR sources, information is available for only
67 to 88 models for right now.  You only need to provide them with your
VIN.  This information on this service from Ford came from Mustang
Monthly Magazine so please do not yell at me too loudly if it does not
work as I have not had a chance to try it yet.

Regards,

Kim Barron
63 Fairlane
65 Mustang Coupe
65 Mustang Fastback
84 Mustang 20th Anniversary Car
71 F350 Dually
81 Club Wagon
82 Bronco
96 Bronco

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 02:21:58 EST
Subject: Re: 73-79 F250s


In a message dated 1/17/2001 5:05:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
derrar internetcds.com writes:

<< 1. What engine? 360/390 or the 351M/400.  I haven't had much experience
with
the FE engines other than repairs.  I have heard nothing but good things
said about the reliability.  But how well are they going to handle a 14,000
lb load on a hill?  Fuel mileage?  How about the 400?  I've pretty much
concluded that if it has a 351M, the 429 in my garage will go in it.>>

Well Im more partial to the FE over the 351/400, but this is largely due to
the fact that they were concieved with entirely different motives.  The FE is
and will always be a brute, where as the 351/400 in an unmodified state,
always seem to be like the asthmatic kid trying to keep up in gym class.
With a few mods, the 400 can be made to run just like a 390, plus the benfit
of those awesome heads.  However, this is all void if you were to go with the
429, which I believe is superior to the other said engines, especially since
with extremely heavy loads, a shorter stroke seems to work better at speed,
only lacking in the stop light to stop light area.  But whos drag racing when
your pullin that much weight?

<<2. Tranny.  C6 or 435?  I know this is kind of a personal preference.  Both
are nearly bulletproof.
I definetely want a 205 (part time) transfer case. Does that limit my
options for a tranny choice?>>

This is all personal choice, do you prefer clutch jobs, or tranny rebuilds?
Do you mind shifting?  What climate are you in?  The only real difference I
can see is with an auto, you have to do a real good job of cooling when your
climbing in the heat, as the tranny will add quite a load to the cooling
system.

<<3. power steering?  If I get a pre 77, I think that integral power steering
is one of the first things on the list.
How much work is it to swap to the later steering box?>>

Cant help ya here, but Im curious too, Dads ram setup is getting on my last
nerve.

<< 4. Highboy or not?  Is there much of a difference in unloaded ride between
the highboys and the later trucks?  I know the highboys are limited for
suspension lift choices.  If I do lift, it would be just enough for 35's,
maybe 36's.>>

My uncles 78 F-250 seems to ride nicer than Dads 75, but that could be due to
the 38's on dads which are a tad bouncy.  On the otherhand, with a highboy,
you dont need a lift to run 36's. His highboy is stock height with 38's and
we've not had a problem with this setup in all the years we've had it.

<< 5. Disc brake choices?  I really want to stick to an open knuckle frontend.
Do the 3/4 ton Dana 44's share the spindle bolt pattern with the 1/2t (6
bolt for drum and 5 for disc)?  How about disc brake options for the 60?>>

Cant be sure of what years got disk, Im asuming its part of the 77+ design
change.  The dana 60 front end on Dads truck came off of a 79 F-350 4x4, so
it has the large disk brakes on it.  This front end was also seen on heavy
duty crew cab F-250's.  Hard to find parts for, but is by far the most bullet
proof axle I've ever had experience with.


TIA.  Any advice or any other thoughts would be appreciated >>

All of your points are valid, but to be fair, your just gonna have to see
whats out there, and just find somethin that seems to suit your needs.  From
there you can work out any particular problems you have.  Afterall, these
trucks are easily modified so that you can have a 73 highboy with a 390 C6
with a married 205 tcase, dana 60 front with disk, 38's, and hell why your at
it, how about a cd player?  The perfect truck is out there, just gotta find
it.  Good luck.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 02:25:02 EST
Subject: Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....


Oh lisa, hast thou not learned the first commandment of truck ownership?
Never let thy neighbor drive thine truck!

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 06:36:48 -0600
From: whynotbuyaPacer <dahorse jvlnet.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Converters


Basically all three manufactures recommended are "high end" converter
buildets and do alot of (almost all) the highperformance applications as
well as many extreamly high quality replacement converters...my personal
choise being Transmission Specialties. But  they all build a great high
quality converter.



Norm



> > I have a question to run by everyone. While talking to the
> > Ford Motorsport Tech yesterday about C6's he recommended one
> > of three companies for a Torque Converter. CONE, ATI or
> > Transmission Specialties; I have to admit that I didn't know
> > of any of them. Does anyone have any info regarding these
> > (good or bad experience) and maybe a link to a Web site
> > (found nothing in searches so far) Thanks.
> >
> > John
> > '77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:26:14 -0500
From: William King <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 73-79 F250s


Jason,
I'll toss in my two cents about a good engine.  I hauled a 6,000 lb.
trailer w/ my 68
F100 (360, 2v, 4 speed Toploader and 3.25 rear) from Boston to Toledo (my
truck weighs about 4400 lbs w/ me).  Ran about 60 mph the whole way (even
thru the Berkshires) and knocked down 11 mpg.  I could have run 65 or 70
without breaking a sweat, but it takes the 360 a while to get up to speed
with that kind of load.  To be honest, that's the heaviest load I'd haul w/
a 360.   Unloaded, my truck has hit between 10-16 mpgs.
I'd build the 429 if you're tossing a camper on the back AND  a trailer.
The 429 in my
68 Torino is a torque-monster.

That's my input...
Ohio Bill
1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed
1968 Torino GT 429 4v 5 speed

>1. What engine? 360/390 or the 351M/400.  I haven't had much experience with
>the FE engines other than repairs.  I have heard nothing but good things
>said about the reliability.  But how well are they going to handle a 14,000
>lb load on a hill?  Fuel mileage?  How about the 400?  I've pretty much
>concluded that if it has a 351M, the 429 in my garage will go in it.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:01:32 -0800


Remember in "Back to the Future", only Biff could start his car?  What was
his reason for not fixing it?  I wouldn't want anyone else to drive my
bronco, there are simply too many things a novice can mess up....435's don't
like to be raced or forced for instance and with wide 33's you definitely
don't want to drive on pavement very far and the brakes aren't very good
either even when they are factory perfect and it turns on a dime which can
get you in trouble so I'm a little protective too :-)  Then there's the bird
with it's funky converter that no one seems to be able to feel chattering so
they just keep the pedal down.....:-(  What about that old truck with the
West Coast, truck style mirrors that you can't easily adjust so only you can
see out of them etc.......Yeah, trucks (vehicles) can be kinda personal :-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Oh lisa, hast thou not learned the first commandment of truck ownership?
> Never let thy neighbor drive thine truck!
>
> Darrell & Tweety
>


------------------------------

From: "Jerry Summerall" <k7yvz qsl.net>
Subject: 79 4x4 gear ratio
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 07:07:21 -0700


First the restoration project of my 79 4x4 supercab is coming along ok. My
first resto this involved and boy never realized it was so time consuming.
Been working 8-10 hrs/ day for last three weeks and still  have a few to go.

I have 409 up front in the Dana 44 and 410 in the Dana 60 rear. I don't pull
heavy loads and this gear ratio is to low. I was thinking putting in 354 or
373 gears. Any suggestions on which ratio to go with and where is a good
place to buy gears if I should have trouble finding a used set. May look
around for 1 ton set of axles. Other info is I am running 16 inch wheels
instead of the 16.5's and powered by a 400. Maybe bigger tires will also
resolve this problem.



------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 73-79 F250s
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:18:36 -0800


I'll chime in here and say I believe that, today, the 429/460 is the best
truck engine out there.  Everything about the design is simply better for
heavy hauling.  The fact that medium size farm trucks came with the 429
truck engine indicates that Ford must have felt that way too.  I still thing
I liked the way the 429 ran over the 460 but I've never really got the 460
to run as happy as I know it can (no money) so who knows?

There are technical things you can say about all of them to give them some
advantage but over all, you will be happier with the 429/460 for this IMHO.
If I had a 400 already and a little cash I might build it simply due to the
stroke advantage but it's not as tough an engine as the 385 series no matter
what you do to it.  Spend the same money on the 385 series engine and you
will have more engine no matter how you slice it.  The wedge heads on this
design are also better for lugging.  You have to try pretty hard to get them
to spark knock due to the design.

If you do a lot of trailering you will want the C-6.  Clutches just don't
hold up very well on a trailer truck due to slipping it so much when backing
and also every time you leave a stop you have to slip it more than without a
trailer unless you have a really well set up 5 or 6 speed tranny.  It will
also take something better than stock to handle the torque loads.  If you
take carefull precautions to properly cool the C-6 it will pull anything you
want to throw at it.  You can also get the wide ratio, which will probably
already be in a 78/79 vehicle, and also add some plates to the low gear
clutch (lincoln setup) for better life since low gear on a hauler will take
most of the punishment.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I've been thinking about buying a 73-79 F250 4wd.  It will mostly be used
> for back and forth to work,
> but it will also be used to hauling a 8 ft cabover camper and a 7000 lb
> (gross) car trailer.
>
> I am debating between a few options.
>
> 1. What engine? 360/390 or the 351M/400.  I haven't had much
> experience with
> the FE engines other than repairs.  I have heard nothing but good things
> said about the reliability.  But how well are they going to
> handle a 14,000
> lb load on a hill?  Fuel mileage?  How about the 400?  I've pretty much
> concluded that if it has a 351M, the 429 in my garage will go in it.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 79 4x4 gear ratio
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:30:10 -0800


What size tires are you running now?  4.10 is the most common gear in the
3/4 tons because they are expected to haul loads.  The stock 16.5" tires are
also larger, stock, than any 15" stock tire.  Most are in the 31" range even
stock so the added gear is simply to offset this.  Measure your tires, over
all diameter and I will give you some numbers you can play with :-)

For example, if you have 31" tires with 4.10 gears you will run 2720 rpm at
60
with 15" tires in the 29" range you would be turning 2907 rpm in top gear.

Most stock truck engines like to run in the range of 2400-2500 rpm for best
performance and economy but the cam has a lot to do with the "Happy Spot" so
you can modify this any way you like up to a point with enough cash :-)
With 31" tires you would need to go with gears in the range of 3.62 - 3.77
for this rpm range.  I personally like to get closer to 2000 rpm but I don't
pull trailers and that definitely changes the rpm requirments for best
economy and performance.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I have 409 up front in the Dana 44 and 410 in the Dana 60 rear. I
> don't pull
> heavy loads and this gear ratio is to low. I was thinking putting
> in 354 or
> 373 gears. Any suggestions on which ratio to go with and where is a good
> place to buy gears if I should have trouble finding a used set. May look
> around for 1 ton set of axles. Other info is I am running 16 inch wheels
> instead of the 16.5's and powered by a 400. Maybe bigger tires will also
> resolve this problem.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 360 to 390
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:57:06 -0600

Jeff writes:  >>, can I simply buy a rebuild kit for a 390 to
put into the 360? Are the timing chain, cam, lifters, etc,
the same?<<

The only things different are the (1) Crankshaft, (2) Rods), and (3) Pistons.
Aii else remains the same, except the power.  You'll be pleasantly surprised
the difference.  Someone posted that they didn't think the 30 cubes from
360 to 390 would be noticeable, but I think it will be very noticeable..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: Raymond Parsons <rparsons conagrabeef.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 08:04:32 -0700
Subject: Leaking Valve Covers




I am in need of the wisdom from the list:  I just replaced the valve cover
gaskets on my 352 and can not keep them from leaking.  I used the Fel-Pro
cork/rubber combo gasket and used Indian gasket sealer (the black tar like
substance).  I trued the valve covers as best as I could; they appear to be
fairly flat and torqued the valve cover bolts to the correct rating per my shop
manual.  What do you guys suggest?  They are leaking around the bolt holes.
Should I use RTV gasket sealer around the bolt holes; if I do this, will I need
to cover the entire gasket?  Should I have purchased the all rubber gaskets? I
am getting a fair amount of oil leakage; it is leaking enough that it smells in
the cab.  I just replaced a leaking intake gasket and would like to get it
sealed up.  I used the RTV on the key spots on the intake, but did not use any
on the valve covers.

As an aside; I replaced the diaphram clutch with a spring type Luk clutch and
could not be happier!  What a pleasure to shift.  Now I guess I will have to
find another way to work my calve muscles.  Also suprising was a local Ford
dealer had in stock the flywheel!

TIA
Ray Parsons
1967 F250 Camper Special



------------------------------

From: "Jeff Bennett" <jmb40 amexol.net>
Subject: 360 question
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:23:48 -0500


I'm planning to go ahead with a rebuild on a 360, and will be
building it as a 390. Are the pistons the same size, or does
the 390 have a bigger cyl bore?

jeff

------------------------------

From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:45:19 EST
Subject: Re: ENVY STRIKES AGAIN.....


I totally agree! I think I am a lil overprotective too, granted, not much
will happen to my truck if something does hit it, but it's nerve wracking to
let a novice drive your truck who isn't used to driving a lifted truck <W/
west coast mirrors!> They don't know the lil quirks like you do, like how it
takes awhile to warm up and ya gotta kick it down before ya start and how ya
CAN'T go over speedbumps over 5 MPH or your airborne or how it doesn't turn
quite as tight as a new truck does and how it needs a little encouragement
going up hills.....LOL

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*

------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Valve Covers
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:49:00 -0800


If you did not flatten the area around the bolts before re-installing it
(and it sounds like you did) the metal may be deformed so that it won't
tighten down evenly.  If you have the time to look for them, you should also
install load spreading washers which aids in distributing the torque over a
larger area and doesn't squish the gasket right under the bolt as much.  I
normally glue the gasket to the valve cover but not to the head.  Some do
both but I've found that if I can get the gasket to stay put long enough to
tighten the bolts it rarely leaks with or without sealer.  The Gasket Cement
simply maintains the location of the gasket long enough to get it properly
tightened without slipping out etc..  If you use sealer, make sure to get an
even coating over the whole surface.  I've been told (and it makes sense to
me) that you should not ever use sealer on rubber gaskets.  I highly
recommend a non-hardening cemet also.  I'm not at all impressed with Fel-Pro
Yellow cement.  Haven't tried Indian head yet but will get that soon too and
try it out :-)  I'm thinking 3-M window seal cement (the black gooy stuff)
as a possibly better way to glue gaskets.....anyone try this yet?

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I am in need of the wisdom from the list:  I just replaced the valve cover
> gaskets on my 352 and can not keep them from leaking.  I used the Fel-Pro
> cork/rubber combo gasket and used Indian gasket sealer (the black tar like
> substance).  I trued the valve covers as best as I could; they
> appear to be
> fairly flat and torqued the valve cover bolts to the correct
> rating per my shop
> manual.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: carburetor troubles
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 11:07:14 -0800


Couple of possibilities come to mind:

1..Worn throttle shaft which allows air to enter at each end of the shaft,
leaning the mixture
2..Leaking intake gasket somewhere
3..Other vacuum leak
4..Float level imporperly set when rebuilding it

Vacuum leaks can make the carburetor settings seem invisible to the engine
at times so I'd persue this in your case.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> rebuild it. Bought the rebuild kit from Advance Auto. Never done
> it before. Thought it went ok, though there were some minor
> differences in the parts I had and the parts that came in the
> kit. Got it back together, and it runs, but it stalls on
> acceleration.


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Ford 9"
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 11:10:46 -0800


Just occured to me what you said here :-)  The junction between the housing
and third member is insignificant to the diff performance but may impact on
the side gear wear if the fit is bad enough I suppose.  Sealer is fine in
this location as long as all surfaces are free from damage or dirt etc....

The junction between the third member and the pinion housing is important
since this can, and does affect the pinion depth.

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> was no gasket between 3rd memeber and axel ara just form a gasket
> wich allowed it to


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 18:44:34 GMT
Subject: Re: stuck np203


>I just put another np203 with the part time kit my my truck, but I have
>been having trouble figuring out how the linkage when it.  Does anyone
>have a picture handy so I can see how it goes.
>

No pics handy, sorry ... if you still don't have it straightened out lemme know
I can crawl under there and get what you need hopefully ...

>Also, while playing with the linkage, I managed to get my t-case stuck
>in low range.  I can't seem to get it out, even when the linkage
>removed.  Any ideas?
>

Mine did this once, took it to the dealer and they told me the shift forks had
popped out of the shifter linkage and had to actually go in and re-set it, they
also put some new nylon bushings in there.
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: 360 question
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:02:53 -0800



>
>
>
>  I'm planning to go ahead with a rebuild on a 360, and will be
> building it as a 390. Are the pistons the same size, or does
> the 390 have a bigger cyl bore?
>
> jeff
>
Same bore but the 390 pistions have 'slipper skirts' to clear the crankshaft
counterbalance weights.  The 390 has a longer stroke so at bottom dead
center the piston is closer to the crankshaft and without the slipper skirt
there would be an interference.

Tom H

------------------------------

From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking Valve Covers
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:06:28 -0500


Try the 100% neoprene rubber valve cover gaskets.  They cost about 50% more
than the standard cork/rubber types, but are well worth the price IMHO.
They are thicker, to deal with bent covers, require no sealer, and are
completely re-useable.  I put a pair on my 351M and have never had a drip
since.  Got mine at Advaance Auto, but you should be able to find 'em at any
chain or NAPA, etc....  good luck

Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Parsons <rparsons conagrabeef.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 10:04 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Leaking Valve Covers


>
>
>
> I am in need of the wisdom from the list:  I just replaced the valve cover
> gaskets on my 352 and can not keep them from leaking.  I used the Fel-Pro
> cork/rubber combo gasket and used Indian gasket sealer (the black tar like
> substance).  I trued the valve covers as best as I could; they appear to
be
> fairly flat and torqued the valve cover bolts to the correct rating per my
shop
> manual.  What do you guys suggest?  They are leaking around the bolt
holes.
> Should I use RTV gasket sealer around the bolt holes; if I do this, will I
need
> to cover the entire gasket?  Should I have purchased the all rubber
gaskets? I
> am getting a fair amount of oil leakage; it is leaking enough that it
smells in
> the cab.  I just replaced a leaking intake gasket and would like to get it
> sealed up.  I used the RTV on the key spots on the intake, but did not use
any
> on the valve covers.
>
> As an aside; I replaced the diaphram clutch with a spring type Luk clutch
and
> could not be happier!  What a pleasure to shift.  Now I guess I will have
to
> find another way to work my calve muscles.  Also suprising was a local
Ford
> dealer had in stock the flywheel!
>
> TIA
> Ray Parsons
> 1967 F250 Camper Special
>
>
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:59:46 -0500
From: Bill Logan <f10067 naxs.net>
Subject: Re: carburetor troubles


On Thu, Jan 18, 2001 at 11:07:14AM -0800, GaryBBB wrote:
>
> Couple of possibilities come to mind:
>
> 1..Worn throttle shaft which allows air to enter at each end of the shaft,
> leaning the mixture
> 2..Leaking intake gasket somewhere
> 3..Other vacuum leak
> 4..Float level imporperly set when rebuilding it
>
> Vacuum leaks can make the carburetor settings seem invisible to the engine
> at times so I'd persue this in your case.

I thought about numbers 2 and 3. So I checked it out and to the
best of my knowledge, all gaskets are properly seated and there
is no vacuum leak.

Regarding number 1: prior to the rebuild I wasn't experiencing
this hesitation on accelaration. Could removing the carb have
disturbed the throttle shaft somehow and made it leak? How can I
check this?

Of the four possibilities, I sort of suspect number 4 - mostly
because it would be the most difficult to repair (one of those
Murphy's law things). The reason for my suspicion is that the old
needle valve assembly and the needle valve that came with the
rebuild kit were completely different. And though I used the
guage supplied with the kit (looks like a little framing square)
to compare the two assemblies while installed and set the float
to the specs, I may have made a mistake. Perhaps I got the wrong
kit and have the wrong needle valve in there now.

The old needle valve assembly consisted of a brass sleeve with
holes near the seat end, and an o-ring around the outside of the
sleeve, above the holes, and a hexagonal, aluminum looking needle
valve which was flat on the top with a sort of floating rubber
disc on it (not the typical needle that comes to a point). The
valve that came with the kit was the typical (at least in my very
limited experience) triangular shaped, brass needle that comes to
a point. The new needle fit snuggly in the opening, and appeared
to be of the same lenth as the other assembly, so I put it in,
checked the float height, and closed it up.

I would replace the new with the old, but in trying to decide
what to do I damaged the o-ring on that brass sleeve so that I
can't trust it. And I have my doubts that I can locate another of
the rings - it's so small.

One other thing to be sure I've fully described the problem: it
is a momentary hesitation on acceleration. With the air cleaner
on (old oil bath type) and the choke wide open, it hesitates on
acceleration. With the air cleaner on and the choke closed a bit,
it doesn't hesitate. Likewise, with the air cleaner off and the
choke completely open, it does not hesitate. Makes me think it is
running lean; but as I said, the mixture needle has no effect on
this problem. Otherwise, the rebuild seems to have corrected the
original sputtering problem I was trying to fix, and the thing
runs great.

Thanks for the suggestions. Any further help will be greatly
appreciated. (Sorry this is so long.)

Bill

P.S. I searched the tech articles on the FTE site and, and also
tried searching the archives for the list. But the tech articles
gave no help on this particular problem (though I've learned a
lot from reading them), and in response to the "index" command to
listar I get a reply that the archives are for administrators
only. Is it possible to search the archives somehow?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 13:43:41 -0600
From: Bruce Montcombroux <montcom BrandonU.CA>
Subject: axles/gears/carrier swap 76-65


Suggestions..?

The drivers side axle tube on my 76 ton 4x4 has a spilt that was welded at ....


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