Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Tue, 16 Jan 2001 22:23:50 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 22:23:50 -0500 (EST)
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To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #14
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 15 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 014

In This Issue:
Re: Virus protection
Re: '78 Bronco bolt-on exhaust (and project update)
Re: Having Fun
Re: engine swap
Exhaust Gaskets
Re: Ford 9" gear ratio's stock?
Re: Exhaust Gaskets
Seat nuts
Computer sheets....
Re: Exhaust Gaskets
Re: Seat mounting nut problem
engine opinions
Re: engine opinions
Re: Seat mounting nut problem
Re: engine opinions
Test Post
Re: engine opinions
RamAssist PS problems
Re: engine opinions
Original build info
Re: RamAssist PS problems
Re: More... New list policy
Re: Original build info
Re: Original build info
Re: Temp & Oil Sender Wiring
Re: Original build info

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Virus protection
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 17:51:32 -0800

Yes that is an interesting test but it really has little to do with the
virus issue except that there are "viruses" out there that open your
computer up to attack.

The bottom line on this particular virus that Ken is referring to is that if
someone is <insert your favorite adjective here> enough to actually open up
a .exe file that comes from someone with the name hahaha sexyfun.net then
they deserve whatever they get. Yes I know it is sometimes attached as a
.scr file but the issue is the same.

Unfortunately this virus also tries to self replicate by sending itself to
others in the infected person's address book. Since this is a very
unsophisticated virus which always uses the same name, a very simple fix is
to add the above email address to your Blocked Senders list and you will
never receive the virus again...

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg" <greg gregster.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 8:23 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Virus protection


>
> A night or two ago, I posted about Norton and another "hacker-stopper"
> program. I meant to post an URL where you can go to test the
> venerability (sp) of your PC to hackers ... but I forgot. Anyways, here
> it is: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://grc.com/default.htm
> Scroll down to "Shields Up" and take the test. It's quite interesting.




------------------------------

From: "Gary Tobolski" <garyt mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: '78 Bronco bolt-on exhaust (and project update)
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 20:55:01 -0500



> Does anyone know of a manufacturer/source for a bolt-on dual exhaust
> system for my '78 Bronco?  Its got the stock 351M with stock
> manifolds and
> I'm thinking that if such a thing exists that it'd be easier and less
> expensive than getting a custom bent dual system from Midas.
> I've seen a
> few complete systems that included headers but I'm not sure I
> want to try
> and get the old manifolds off to replace them since it seems
> likely I'll
> break off something in the heads.  I'm thinking of bulding up
> a 400 for it
> eventually since I've got a rebuildable 351M block I got with
> the F-350 so
> maybe it'd be worth it to put in the headers/etc. now and then I won't
> have to upgrade it all again later?
>
Well, it's not Bronco specific, but Dynomax makes a universal system.  I
just got mine today, so I haven't put it on my Bronco yet.  It exits in
front of the rear wheels, and the cost is $99 for all the pipes.  The only
other thing you need to buy are the mufflers, and the mufflers designed to
work with this system cost $15 each.

Good Luck.
Eric Tobolski


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:17:30 EST
Subject: Re: Having Fun

Sounds like a deal for that amount of money.



Glenn NY

78F250 (talk about projects and headaches)



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:32:59 EST
Subject: Re: engine swap

In a message dated 1/15/01 7:22:34 AM Central Standard Time,
harby mim.atc.org writes:


> Were there other headaches?  What exhaust did you use?  Are there some
> headers that will clear everything?
>
>

I ended up going to a friend of a friend to get a set of pipes custom bent to
fit of course I had to tell a little white lie, told him it was for off road
only.  Must have been o.k.  only got pulled over once but no problems  i.e.
tickets.  Oh yea had custume make the clutch brackets.


Glenn NY

78 F250 (talk about projects and headaches)



------------------------------

From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Exhaust Gaskets
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:54:45 -0500


My rebuilt 400 sounds pretty ragged, due to major exhaust leaks between both
ex manifolds and the Y-pipe.  My friend thinks it sounds great, and that I
should keep it that way.  Not so sure- I picked up 2 "donut" style gaskets
at the auto store today to try and plug the leak.

Well, they don't fit.  The donuts have a taper on both sides- the taper
seats into the flared pipe nicely, but just butts against the manifold-
won't go in or on at all.  I guess these were the wrong parts for my '77
351M, although that's what their computer said would fit.  Not sure which
way to go now.....

I'm positive there were no gaskets, or pieces of gasket, on these
connections when I took out the engine for rebuild.  I think some kind of
flat ring style might work, or maybe a big O ring?  What do you guys think?

Bob


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 21:55:49 EST
Subject: Re: Ford 9" gear ratio's stock?

First I would pull the axle shafts and check the splines on the end.  They
get worn over time and then just slip.  I have blown 2 sets in my old Ford
9".  Savews trying to come up with another third member.

Glenn  NY

78  F250 (talk about projects and headaches)



------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Gaskets
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 19:07:49 -0800

The "donut" you need is tapered on the side that goes into the flared pipe
and flat on the other side with some tabs that locate it inside the manifold
opening.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 6:54 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Exhaust Gaskets


>
> My rebuilt 400 sounds pretty ragged, due to major exhaust leaks between
both
> ex manifolds and the Y-pipe.  My friend thinks it sounds great, and that I
> should keep it that way.  Not so sure- I picked up 2 "donut" style gaskets
> at the auto store today to try and plug the leak.
>
> Well, they don't fit.  The donuts have a taper on both sides- the taper
> seats into the flared pipe nicely, but just butts against the manifold-
> won't go in or on at all.  I guess these were the wrong parts for my '77
> 351M, although that's what their computer said would fit.  Not sure which
> way to go now.....
>
> I'm positive there were no gaskets, or pieces of gasket, on these
> connections when I took out the engine for rebuild.  I think some kind of
> flat ring style might work, or maybe a big O ring?  What do you guys
think?
>




------------------------------

From: "Gary L. Perry" <glperry fwi.com>
Subject: Seat nuts
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 23:47:39 -0500

Not to seam too simple, but.........if you have a hole in body support and can put the nut on a socket (maybe with tissue stuck in it to keep out to edge), why can't you just hold it up there with extension and handle while someone tightens the bolt from above. Two man job, yes, but how often do you remove seats? OR....leave it off, seat won't move with three others in it.
                                              "G"


------------------------------

From: "Mike Mackie" <bigred connect.ab.ca>
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 22:52:49 -0700
Subject: Computer sheets....


Just out of curiosity, have any of you guys with decent original, maybe low mileage
67-72's come across a computer or broadcast sheet in your trucks? In all the
trucks I've looked at or scoured in the wreckers I've only found one legible
complete one in a 72; tucked into the seat springs. I've also come across a
couple of 68's locally that have the assembly date stamped on the upper left
front of the cowl, above the m/c. I'm wondering if this continued into 69 or
beyond.    Mike

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 02:42:29 EST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Gaskets

Humm, I didnt think there was a seperate "Donut". Both the 400's Ive been
involved with they were aparently stuck to the manifold. I thought that's the
way they were cast, sure looks that way. Though wouldnt be the first time Ive
thunk wrong though.

George M in Fl.


In a message dated 01/15/01 10:00:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bbeyer pacifier.com writes:


> The "donut" you need is tapered on the side that goes into the flared pipe
> and flat on the other side with some tabs that locate it inside the manifold
> opening.
>
>





------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Seat mounting nut problem
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 05:56:05 -0800



>
>
> I promised in my earlier email that I'd email again with my
> other small
> problem.  Well here it is....
>
> I've got a small problem with my one drivers seat mounting
> nut.

<snip>

> Does anyone have any other suggestions?  Maybe something
> obvious that I'm
> missing?  :-)
>
> TIA,
>
> Eric Finn (stumped by the easiest problems...)
> '78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project getting close)
> '79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/
>
Eric,
as an idea you might be able to take the nut and have it welded to a plate
and then bolt that plate into the floorboard with 4 bolts.  I know it
wouldn't be pretty but it is a suggestion.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Jeff Bennett" <jmb40 amexol.net>
Subject: engine opinions
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 09:13:56 -0500


I finally found it. Ran across a 70 camper special this weekend. The trunk
has been sitting for a couple of years. The people just wanted it out of
their
yard, and I was happy to oblige for $300. I live in Ga, so rust isn't a big
problem, and this one is better than usual. I haven't found any rust
through,
cab mounts and floor pans are all good, the bed still has paint on the
floor,
just surface rust. The interior is perfect. A lucky find.
The engine blew a head gasket, and is the reason it was parked. I pulled
the heads to see what kind of shape the bottom end was in. The #5,6 cyl
are rusted bad, and the intake and crank case have water in them. I figure
the motor is junk, and will part out what I can. Here's my dilemma. The
motor
in the truck is a 360, and I have a 360 out of a parts truck that is suppose
to run, I also have a 460/c6 out of another truck that I drove before
parting
out the truck, and it runs good, but needs rebuilt, or I have thought about
putting in a 390. What do you all think? 360,390,460?

jeff


------------------------------

From: "Daniel Beiers" <dbeiers rmpprestress.com>
Subject: Re: engine opinions
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 07:28:41 -0700


Awesome deal on the truck man!!

On the engine, I don't think it matters.  I don't think there is going to be
a noticeable difference between the 360 and 390.  Between a 390 and 460 it
might be noticeable but not substantial.  I have a friend with a 360 in his
pickup and I have a 390, no difference that I can tell.  I would say stick
with what you got...if you know the 460 is a runner and will be an easy
rebuild just stay with that.

Just my opinion.

Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Bennett
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 7:14 AM
To: 61-79-List
Subject: [61-79-list] engine opinions



I finally found it. Ran across a 70 camper special this weekend. The trunk
has been sitting for a couple of years. The people just wanted it out of
their
yard, and I was happy to oblige for $300. I live in Ga, so rust isn't a big
problem, and this one is better than usual. I haven't found any rust
through,
cab mounts and floor pans are all good, the bed still has paint on the
floor,
just surface rust. The interior is perfect. A lucky find.
The engine blew a head gasket, and is the reason it was parked. I pulled
the heads to see what kind of shape the bottom end was in. The #5,6 cyl
are rusted bad, and the intake and crank case have water in them. I figure
the motor is junk, and will part out what I can. Here's my dilemma. The
motor
in the truck is a 360, and I have a 360 out of a parts truck that is suppose
to run, I also have a 460/c6 out of another truck that I drove before
parting
out the truck, and it runs good, but needs rebuilt, or I have thought about
putting in a 390. What do you all think? 360,390,460?

jeff




------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Seat mounting nut problem
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 06:54:11 -0800


I added seats to the rear of my '77 E150 (didn't have them originally) and
since my kids were going to be riding in those seats, I wanted it to be
SAFE.

I had 1/2 nuts (same size as the front bolts so install/removal would be
simpler) welded to  1 1/2" x 6" pieces of 1/4" steel and then bolted the
plates to the floor and then welded the plates to the floor as well.

Ugly? Yes.  Carpet is good.

Overkill?  Not when it comes to my family's safety...

-----Original Message-----
From: Hogan, Tom (Portland) [mailto:Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 5:56 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Seat mounting nut problem




>
>
> I promised in my earlier email that I'd email again with my
> other small
> problem.  Well here it is....
>
> I've got a small problem with my one drivers seat mounting
> nut.

<snip>

> Does anyone have any other suggestions?  Maybe something
> obvious that I'm
> missing?  :-)
>
> TIA,
>
> Eric Finn (stumped by the easiest problems...)
> '78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project getting close)
> '79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/
>
Eric,
as an idea you might be able to take the nut and have it welded to a plate
and then bolt that plate into the floorboard with 4 bolts.  I know it
wouldn't be pretty but it is a suggestion.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: engine opinions
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 08:54:47 -0800


> Here's my dilemma. The
> motor
> in the truck is a 360, and I have a 360 out of a parts truck that is
suppose
> to run, I also have a 460/c6 out of another truck that I drove before
> parting
> out the truck, and it runs good, but needs rebuilt, or I have thought
about
> putting in a 390. What do you all think? 360,390,460?
>
> jeff
~~~~~~~~~

   Sounds like you picked up on a truck worth restoring.

1) If you're on a tight budget, then any FE 352/360 will get you down the
road.
2) If you've got money to burn and don't mind doing some extra work, then
the 460 would be the premium option.
3) If options #1 or #2 don't apply, then I'd suggest building a 390 with
cast iron 4V intake, 600 CFM carb with vacuum secondaries, 9:1 compression
pistons, 428 cam/hydraulic lifters, and headers.


Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Test Post
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 11:58:26 -0500

Trying to get back online.

John
'77 F150 4X4 466/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "Ann Wasserman" <meshugga prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: engine opinions
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 16:11:10 -0800

I think you should just part this truck out and sell me the inner fenders!!!  There wasnt that an easy fix?  Annie
 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Jeff Bennett
 To: 61-79-List
 Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 6:13 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] engine opinions



  I finally found it. Ran across a 70 camper special this weekend. The trunk
 has been sitting for a couple of years. The people just wanted it out of
 their
 yard, and I was happy to oblige for $300. I live in Ga, so rust isn't a big
 problem, and this one is better than usual. I haven't found any rust
 through,
 cab mounts and floor pans are all good, the bed still has paint on the
 floor,
 just surface rust. The interior is perfect. A lucky find.
  The engine blew a head gasket, and is the reason it was parked. I pulled
 the heads to see what kind of shape the bottom end was in. The #5,6 cyl
 are rusted bad, and the intake and crank case have water in them. I figure
 the motor is junk, and will part out what I can. Here's my dilemma. The
 motor
 in the truck is a 360, and I have a 360 out of a parts truck that is suppose
 to run, I also have a 460/c6 out of another truck that I drove before
 parting
 out the truck, and it runs good, but needs rebuilt, or I have thought about
 putting in a 390. What do you all think? 360,390,460?

 jeff




------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 16:47:09 EST
Subject: RamAssist PS problems


Hey everyone,

Im havin a lil trouble with dads 75 F-250 4x4.  Every so often the power
assist just quits workin, and sometimes comes back.  ITs not the pump, as it
has done this with the last 3 pumps (autozone hates the fact I return them
simply because they leak)  Im goin nuts.  I dont know this particular system
very well, but basic hydraulics is telling me either my valve is shot, or I
have a hose the is colapsing on it self.  Im lookin for a lil insight on this
before the inevitable rip and tear and search and poke and prod that you do
when you have an intermittant problem such as this.  Thanks for your help.

Darrell & Tweety (once again, back burnered due to other projects :(   )

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: engine opinions
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 13:46:39 -0800



>
>  I finally found it. Ran across a 70 camper special this
> weekend. The trunk
> has been sitting for a couple of years. The people just
> wanted it out of
> their
> yard, and I was happy to oblige for $300. I live in Ga, so
> rust isn't a big
> problem, and this one is better than usual. I haven't found any rust
> through,
> cab mounts and floor pans are all good, the bed still has paint on the
> floor,
> just surface rust. The interior is perfect. A lucky find.
>  The engine blew a head gasket, and is the reason it was
> parked. I pulled
> the heads to see what kind of shape the bottom end was in.
> The #5,6 cyl
> are rusted bad, and the intake and crank case have water in
> them. I figure
> the motor is junk, and will part out what I can. Here's my
> dilemma. The
> motor
> in the truck is a 360, and I have a 360 out of a parts truck
> that is suppose
> to run, I also have a 460/c6 out of another truck that I drove before
> parting
> out the truck, and it runs good, but needs rebuilt, or I have
> thought about
> putting in a 390. What do you all think? 360,390,460?
>
> jeff
>
>
Cool find Jeff.
Depends on what your goals and pocket book can handle.  If you need a
running truck for the least cost I would put the running 360 to get going.
Obviously it is a bolt in.  Might be nice to check out the 'new' motor
before you go to that effort.  Then if you want more power you might want to
rebuild the old motor to 390 specs.  I would expect the head and block can
be salvaged and you can get a 390 crank kit from PAW pretty reasonable.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 16:56:44 EST
Subject: Original build info


Well folks, Ford came through.  I gave the folks in Customer Assistance a
call a few weeks ago, to see about build information on my truck, and it
arrived today.  This one sheet of paper has some neat info on it.  Aside from
the VIN decode, they gave me a bunch of other info.  Here is what it had to
say.

F35 -  F-350 pickup 4x2
J     -  460 CID 4V 8 cylinders
E    -  Manufactured at the Mahwah Truck assembly plant
U63432   -  Consecutive unit #

Build date is 06-11-1974

Options included are 140 wheelbase, Tampico yellow exterior paint, Regular
styleside pickup, Ranger XLT Cab Ginger in Color, GVW 10,000 lbs, Regular and
deluxe tutone, Automatic transmission, 3.73 LS rear axle, Power steering,
9.50x16.5-10TT front tires, and 12 x 16.5-10TT Rear Tires, Spare tire
standard tread, Super Camper Package, Air Conditioning, AM/FM radio, Sliding
rear window, ICC Cab lights, Tinted Glass, Interval Wipers, and Dual
batteries-Standard & 70 amp

I also got a sheet on my Mustang, with just as much info, but I wont bore ya
with car stuff on our TRUCK list :)  I suggest anyone doing a restoration, or
those of you who are just curious, to get one of these sent to you.  Its
free, so why not?

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 15:25:52 -0700
From: David Oneal <dave davesmonsterpit.com>
Subject: Re: RamAssist PS problems

I would look at the valve. Its pretty simple (if you have the bendix type)
take the three bolts that hold it together out and it comes apart. there is
a spring on one end, take the nut off of it and it will come in 3 pieces,
in the center piece is the valve, take it out and see whats in there, it
could just be dirty. I got a kit and rebuilt mine and it worked a lot
better. I have never looked at the ram, but I know that NAPA can get
rebuilt ones. All the hoses are pressure except the one that goes from the
valve to the back of the pump, so I doubt that they are collapsing. while
you got the valve apart, jack up the front and turn the tires both ways to
make sure fluid comes out both lines, maybe even cycle it back and forth to
get all that old nasty fluid out. Holler if I missed anything.

At 04:47 PM 1/16/2001 -0500, you wrote:

>Hey everyone,
>
>Im havin a lil trouble with dads 75 F-250 4x4.  Every so often the power
>assist just quits workin, and sometimes comes back.  ITs not the pump, as it
>has done this with the last 3 pumps (autozone hates the fact I return them
>simply because they leak)  Im goin nuts.  I dont know this particular system
>very well, but basic hydraulics is telling me either my valve is shot, or I
>have a hose the is colapsing on it self.  Im lookin for a lil insight on this
>before the inevitable rip and tear and search and poke and prod that you do
>when you have an intermittant problem such as this.  Thanks for your help.
>
>Darrell & Tweety (once again, back burnered due to other projects :(   )

Dave

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.davesmonsterpit.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 17:55:36 -0600
From: "George Ramsower, San Antonio, TEXAS!" <georgeram stic.net>
Subject: Re: More... New list policy


Would it be possible to have your server drop the whole message that
has a virus attachment, and then email the persons with the virus that
their email with attachments has been dropped because of this?
It seems this would be a kinder approach to this problem.

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Original build info
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 18:32:47 -0800

Where did you call to get that? Your local dealer?


Garrett Nelson
www.1966ford.com


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 1:56 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Original build info



 Well folks, Ford came through.  I gave the folks in Customer Assistance a
 call a few weeks ago, to see about build information on my truck, and it
 arrived today.  This one sheet of paper has some neat info on it.  Aside from
 the VIN decode, they gave me a bunch of other info.  Here is what it had to
 say.

 F35 -  F-350 pickup 4x2
 J     -  460 CID 4V 8 cylinders
 E    -  Manufactured at the Mahwah Truck assembly plant
 U63432   -  Consecutive unit #

 Build date is 06-11-1974

 Options included are 140 wheelbase, Tampico yellow exterior paint, Regular
 styleside pickup, Ranger XLT Cab Ginger in Color, GVW 10,000 lbs, Regular and
 deluxe tutone, Automatic transmission, 3.73 LS rear axle, Power steering,
 9.50x16.5-10TT front tires, and 12 x 16.5-10TT Rear Tires, Spare tire
 standard tread, Super Camper Package, Air Conditioning, AM/FM radio, Sliding
 rear window, ICC Cab lights, Tinted Glass, Interval Wipers, and Dual
 batteries-Standard & 70 amp

 I also got a sheet on my Mustang, with just as much info, but I wont bore ya
 with car stuff on our TRUCK list :)  I suggest anyone doing a restoration, or
 those of you who are just curious, to get one of these sent to you.  Its
 free, so why not?

 Darrell & Tweety




------------------------------

From: "Charles T." <charlest hal-pc.org>
Subject: Re: Original build info
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 18:45:54 -0600


Mine came today too.
F14    F150 Pickup 4x4
S        6.6L 400 CID 8 cylinder 2V
N        Manufactured at the Norfolk assembly plant
EC4929    Consecutive unit number

Produced on 01/10/1979 (Hmm, had a birthday last week)
Options:
177 wheelbase, two tone paint, Mud/Snow tread, A/C, tinted galss, and others

Great info...thanks to the list for the post,
Charles
>
> Well folks, Ford came through.  I gave the folks in Customer Assistance a
> call a few weeks ago, to see about build information on my truck, and it
> arrived today.  This one sheet of paper has some neat info on it.  Aside
from
> the VIN decode, they gave me a bunch of other info.  Here is what it had
to
> say.
>
> F35 -  F-350 pickup 4x2
> J     -  460 CID 4V 8 cylinders
> E    -  Manufactured at the Mahwah Truck assembly plant
> U63432   -  Consecutive unit #
>
> Build date is 06-11-1974
>
> Options included are 140 wheelbase, Tampico yellow exterior paint, Regular
> styleside pickup, Ranger XLT Cab Ginger in Color, GVW 10,000 lbs, Regular
and
> deluxe tutone, Automatic transmission, 3.73 LS rear axle, Power steering,
> 9.50x16.5-10TT front tires, and 12 x 16.5-10TT Rear Tires, Spare tire
> standard tread, Super Camper Package, Air Conditioning, AM/FM radio,
Sliding
> rear window, ICC Cab lights, Tinted Glass, Interval Wipers, and Dual
> batteries-Standard & 70 amp
>
> I also got a sheet on my Mustang, with just as much info, but I wont bore
ya
> with car stuff on our TRUCK list :)  I suggest anyone doing a restoration,
or
> those of you who are just curious, to get one of these sent to you.  Its
> free, so why not?
>
> Darrell & Tweety
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Temp & Oil Sender Wiring
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 18:50:09 -0600


Kourtney, please forgive the delay-I meant to dig this out last week. I
happen to have the complete harness. Apparently you only have 1/3 of it. The
harness consists of three wires. Coil, temp sending unit, and oil pressure
sending unit. Follow your coil wire through the firewall to a flat three
prong connector about five inches inside the cab. My harness has two male
plugs and one female. The female plug is for the coil. That wire is red with
a white stripe. The middle plug, male, is for the oil sending unit. It's
white with a red stripe. And the outside male plug is for the temp sending
unit. It's red with a green stripe. Hope this helps. I'm in the process of
re-installing the factory guages and knew I'd need this harness, so I
grabbed it at my local salvage yard.

Jason Kendrick




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 19:27:32 -0700
From: "William Whited (Tony)" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Original build info


What's the number?????????????

JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:

> Well folks, Ford came through.  I gave the folks in Customer Assistance a
> call a few weeks ago, to see about build information on my truck, and it
> arrived today.  This one sheet of paper has some neat info on it.  Aside from
> the VIN decode, they gave me a bunch of other info.  Here is what it had to
> say.
>
> F35 -  F-350 pickup 4x2
> J     -  460 CID 4V 8 cylinders
> E    -  Manufactured at the Mahwah Truck assembly plant
> U63432   -  Consecutive unit #
>
> Build date is 06-11-1974
>
> Options included are 140 wheelbase, Tampico yellow exterior paint, Regular
> styleside pickup, Ranger XLT Cab Ginger in Color, GVW 10,000 lbs, Regular and
> deluxe tutone, Automatic transmission, 3.73 LS rear axle, Power steering,
> 9.50x16.5-10TT front tires, and 12 x 16.5-10TT Rear Tires, Spare tire
> standard tread, Super Camper Package, Air Conditioning, AM/FM radio, Sliding ....


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