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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Tue, 02 Jan 2001 22:50:10 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 22:50:10 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2001 #1 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 01 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 001 In This Issue: Re: brakes Organization Supporting Motorists 67-72 Gas Tanks Need Some Stuff Too! Pigeon Forge 2001 Re: Organization Supporting Motorists Re: brakes Another FE site Re: Organization Supporting Motorists Van rear width NP205 replaces NP203 New list member and questions on project under way Re: engine swap Fuel Guage Troubles Re: engine swap Re: engine swap CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts Re: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts Re: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts Re: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts Re: Relays and alternator voltage Rust free bed wanted Re: Rust free bed wanted 351w question Re: Fuel Guage Troubles Re: brakes Re: When to give up on a project??? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 19:30:43 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: brakes OK time for me to play dumb on the list yet again. I was driving home the old ford today from a good morning of driving and it felt like the brakes were getting soft on me and then the brake light came on. So I pull of to the side of the road and check the fluid level. Sure enough the rear ones were a little low nothing to alarming though. None the less i drove a little longer and again the light comes on. I open the lip to check the fluid it is fine. I pump the brakes a few times to the floor to build up pressure and the light goes away and i have done this a few times today. No my question is this do you think it is a brake booster or the MC that could be causing me this trouble. it is a stock 79 4x4 with front disc rear drum and as far as i can tell there are no leaks form the brake system. Just curious why this is happening and what to do, since driving up here in these MI winters i would like to have some brake on the ice. thanks in advance for the help chris 1979 F-150 ===== With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was fool proof he headed off to her place. He yelled out his feelings amoung other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Carver" <carver ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: Organization Supporting Motorists Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 19:25:12 -0800 I have been trying to remember the name of the organization that is working to get some sense into the smog laws, prevent unnecessary taking of old cars off the road, get rid of photo-radar, protect the rights to own and drive our older vehicles, and finally found it. They probably have resources to help with the persistent neighbor trying to rid the neighborhood of your restoration projects, even though they are out of out of site or covered. From their webpage, http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.motorists.org/ The National Motorists Association is a membership organization devoted to representing and protecting the rights and interests of North American motorists. This should cover a lot of ground on all four of my vehicle email lists. Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab - '67 Squareback - no bus ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 21:05:25 -0800 (PST) From: "Michael (Cut me and I'll bleed FORD Blue) Whittington" <broncoman85 excite.com>
Subject: 67-72 Gas Tanks Hi all, just thought you might want to know in a friend of mines 70 F100 model we looked for a tank for quite a while, found that a Jeep Commando tank would fit between the two rear crossmembers. The tank held 15 gallons if I remember correctly. His exhaust was in the way so we ended up using a 86 van tank (the van had dual tanks, used the forward tank) mounted it under his tool box and built a sheetmetal gaurd that pins in to keep anything from hitting it. Works great if you're willing to go to the trouble. We let the low pressure pump in the tank feed the mechanical pump on the motor. Was a little more trouble but we plumbed the fuel filler into the cab so he could use the original filler location......didnt make a lot of sense to me but thats how he wanted it, he had just had the truck repainted and didnt want to have to do body work to fill the hole in the cab. We just ran the exhaust tubing we used thru two original type grommlets at the front of the bed and back of the cab. Like I said a little more trouble than was worth to me but...... Whit 77 F250 4X4 20 inchs lift 800 horse 429 44 Boggers 75 F100 460 69 F100 302 76 F250 Dual wheels 390 Tow Truck 85 Bronco 302 _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 22:05:40 -0800 (PST) From: Douglas Trotter <doug_trotter yahoo.com>
Subject: Need Some Stuff Too! Does anyone out there have a complete instrument panel for a 67' F-250. My lenz is scratched and the guages are faded so I'd like to find a clean one. I need the metal bezel too. It's difficult to find any parts for the 67' in the San Diego area. I suspect most of the good stuff has already gone south of the border. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2001 22:11:23 -0800 From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Pigeon Forge 2001 Who's planning to attend Pigeon Forge this May? If so what is the main hotel/motel for the FTE group? I'm making plane reservations to be able to attend and would like to make accomodation reservations. -- Tim Bowman Burien, WA tkbowman qwest.net
Website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 01:23:29 -0500 From: Ted Wnorowski <theodore ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Organization Supporting Motorists At 07:25 PM 1/1/01 -0800, you wrote: >I have been trying to remember the name of the >organization that is working to get some sense into >the smog laws, prevent unnecessary taking of old cars >off the road, get rid of photo-radar, protect >the rights to own and drive our older vehicles, and >finally found it. They probably have resources to >help with the persistent neighbor trying to rid the >neighborhood of your restoration projects, even though >they are out of out of site or covered. Try this one also http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://sema.org/ http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://sema.org/consumer/fedleg/ . This site is LOADED with info, and if I'm not mistaken, Ken is a member. The first time I visited this site I spent about 2 1/2 hours looking around, and still didn't see everything Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wnorowski.com/ mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com
' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed ' 63 F-100 parts truck ' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed ------------------------------ From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: brakes Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 00:52:55 -0800 > > If you have front disc brakes (1969 F-series) then you must depress > the > > bleeder button on the metering valve when bleeding the front brakes. It > will > > also be necessary to centralize the pressure differential valve after > > bleeding the system. > > > Michael, > I have a 79 with front disc brakes. If this still applies, please describe > the procedure in more detail. TIA. > --John LaGrone > jlagrone ford-trucks.com
> See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I'm not sure if the 79 is the same as the 69. The following text was taken from a 1969 Ford truck service manual (page 02-03-04),... On the front disc brake system, the bleeder button on the metering valve must be depressed to allow the brake fluid to reach the caliper assemblies. Centralizing the Pressure Differential Valve (after bleeding)... 1) Turn the ignition switch to the ACC or ON position. Loosen the pressure differential valve inlet tube nut of the system that remained operative, or the side opposite the system that was bled last. Operate the brake pedal carefully and gradually until the pressure differential valve is returned to a centralized position and the brake warning light goes out. Tighten the tube nut. 2) Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs and fill them to within 1/4 inch of the top with the specified brake fluid. 3) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Michael 69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS 69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------ From: "Bill Ballinger" <ballingr sbmu.net>
Subject: Another FE site Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 04:45:12 -0600 Anthony Sissini runs a good FE site at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/74182 It is a split off of the other board at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/21142 There is so much garbage on the latter that an active web-master was needed so Anthony stepped up. There is a lot of good info there. I will begin following the FTE message board now also. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 07:41:23 -0600 Subject: Re: brakes From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Have you considered the vacum assist. Sometimes getting vacum and sometimes > not. That sounds like the only thing you didn't mention. > > Glenn NY > 78 F250 I considered it, Glen. I am pretty sure my troubles are in the hydraulic portion of the system. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 07:53:23 -0600 Subject: Re: brakes From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Ok, I have become somewhat of an expert on the 78/9 truck brakes and I can > tell you that you can certainly bleed them without "pulling" the pin on the > proportioning valve but the book says you are supposed to, especially if you > are "Reverse Pressure Bleeding" them. Huh? What does this entail? I don't think I did this. > The "Warning Light" pin will self > align most of the time. The reason it doesn't is because the old, rusty > valves also have rusted pins and it takes a heck of a shot to the pedal to > move them....if they move at all. The pin doesn't actually do anything but > turn on the light as far as I could tell (I completely disassembled one :-)) > It operates a switch but is simply controlled by pressure balance from both > sides which is also the reason it will self-center when the brakes are > properly adjusted. (if the pin can move at all) Since I have a new Ford proportioning valve, I'm pretty sure this is no longer the problem. I'm pretty sure the booster is OK too. I believe I still have air trapped in the rear brake lines. It has been too cold and rainy to mess with it, plus I have been waiting for some enlightenment from the list... -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 07:55:06 -0600 Subject: Re: brakes From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> I'm not sure if the 79 is the same as the 69. The following text was > taken from a 1969 Ford truck service manual (page 02-03-04),. Thanks, Michael. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 10:03:53 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Organization Supporting Motorists Carver wrote: > > I have been trying to remember the name of the > organization that is working to get some sense into > the smog laws, prevent unnecessary taking of old cars > off the road, get rid of photo-radar, protect > the rights to own and drive our older vehicles, and > finally found it. They probably have resources to > help with the persistent neighbor trying to rid the > neighborhood of your restoration projects, even though > they are out of out of site or covered. > > >From their webpage, http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.motorists.org/ > The National Motorists Association is a membership > organization devoted to representing and protecting > the rights and interests of North American motorists. > I'm and NMA member and it is a good organization, but they are hardly a group for preserving old cars/truck rights. They promote roadside emission testing (over state run/private testing facilities) and I don't see them actively being opposed to scrappage programs. The group really active in fighting the laws against our hobby is http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.covacvag.org. OX -- 78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44 boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5 SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it). 79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)
------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Van rear width Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 09:12:24 -0600 Ox writes: >>Anyone know if the 9" was offset in vans like the D60 (and if spring pad distance is the same as trucks). Fellow bronc owner is looking to put a van 9" (late 70's, early 80's) in his full size bronco.<< Not positive, but I'm positive enough to respond to your query. The van rear is wider both at the spring pads and backing plate to backing plate. Not sure about the offset, but I think they are offset.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: NP205 replaces NP203 Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 09:45:09 -0600 Matt.. Here is what I had to change when I changed a '76 F150 4X4 from 203(fulltime) to 205(parttime).. I don't think the engine size/type matters, but it was FE360 and C6 in case it does matter. The piece between the tranny and the case is different so must be changed. (That piece is also different between 4 speeds and automatics even with the same transfercase, so you have to have one that is correct on both ends) I guess it is called tailshaft??? The shifter and shift rod. (My crossmember worked, but I may have to had to turn it around or something) Both driveshafts. Front hubs to lockouts. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 08:03:35 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: New list member and questions on project under way Hello, I am new to this list just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Kenny and I live in Central Oregon. I own a 1971 F-100 That I use as my daily driver and to haul hay and my horses. This weekend I started swapping the 300 cid inline six in my truck for a performance built 302. Everything is going well but didnt have the truck running for work Tuesday because of the little details I didnt relize would be a problem. Plus the holiday weekend most wrecking yards were closed or had shorter hours. Things that caught me were: 1. Metal brackets between rubber motor mounts and frame looked like they would work if moved back to next set of holes but didnt go back far enough. 2. Clutch pivot post that mounts on engine. Thread is larger on 6 cyl than 8 cyl. I work at a machine shop so re-threading the part wasnt a problem but it would have been nice to have the part right from the start. 3. Carb spacer for after market carb. I should be able to get all the parts I need today on the way home. Cant wait to have the truck running again. After this is in and working good... I have plans for adding power steering and disc brakes. There is a great tech article on the ford-trucks.com web site for disc brakes that listed 73-79 as good donors. But I need to know if disc brake parts (spindles and such) from an '82 1/2 ton will interchange with my '71. I have the oportunity to purchase a 1982 parts truck with a good 302, power steering and disc brake parts. Then I have 2 running 300 cid inline six cylinder motors to sell for $75 for the pair. Thanks, Kenny ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 11:31:45 -0600 (CST) From: Don Harby <harby mim.atc.org>
Subject: Re: engine swap Will the 300 frame mounts work if moved to the back holes? If not what model truck do i need to get frame mounts from? Also will 300 bellhouseing work? I just need to locate all the parts before I start the swap. On Mon, 1 Jan 2001 Aeroape82 aol.com wrote:
> I did that about 5 yrs. ago all you need are the eng. mts. for the 351 and > you will locate them in the back hole in the frame. IE where the six > cyl.eng.mounts bolted to the frame thier should be two sets of mt holes you > want the back ones not the ones the 300 eng.uses. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 11:26:47 -0600 From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
Subject: Fuel Guage Troubles Bob, I have often wondered about this myself, as I have a flaky (rear) tank sender which operates just as you describe (i.e. goes right to E). Sometimes it works, however. The front tank works fine. I am also curious about grounds. I re-did the ground into the frame with a new screw. That did not help. Next, I plan to ground the frame to the engine directly with an auxilliary ground strap. Our old trucks came with an engine-to-body ground strap, but rely on the cab mounts to ground the body to the frame. Age, rust, etc. may interfere with this scheme. One piece of information which refutes my theory is that the tail lights work. Aren't they grounded through the frame? I am still wondering, and it is too cold outside for me to want to do much tinkering. Doss Halsey '67 F250 Camper Special >Yes, I think I've checked everything that I've read about on archive >messages regarding the gauge system on my '77 F150 4x4. Here's a short >list: >-Replaced IVR- can read the pulsating voltage at the sender wire at tank >-Short sender wire to ground at tank- good FULL reading on gauge >-Removed/cleaned/checked sender in tank >-Read sender resistance w/ DVM- sweeps 85 to 20 ohms (full) >-Connect sender to harness- always reads EMPTY. Right at E mark, comes up >off peg a little. >I'm left wondering about the integrity of grounds, but all the other gauges >work OK. I've got real heavy rust in the rear frame area- thinking of >running a ground wire up to the front chassis from sender. Any other >suggestions? TIA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 08:44:56 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: engine swap I am doing that swap now... see my last message on parts that I forgot. 1. Metal brackets between rubber motor mounts and frame looked like they would work if moved back to next set of holes but didnt go back far enough. - Get ones from a 302 powered truck (or any small block 351) 2. Clutch pivot post that mounts on engine. Thread is larger on 6 cyl than 8 cyl. 3. Carb spacer for after market carb. Also if you want the electronic ignition it is an easy swap. do an internet search for "DURASPARK II SWAP". Kenny >>> Don Harby <harby mim.atc.org> 01/02/01 09:31AM >>>
Will the 300 frame mounts work if moved to the back holes? If not what model truck do i need to get frame mounts from? Also will 300 bellhouseing work? I just need to locate all the parts before I start the swap. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 09:03:06 -0800 From: "Kenneth Whitman" <KennyW brightwood.com>
Subject: Re: engine swap The flywheel, clutch, and pressure plates were the same for my swap. check the condition of all parts before reusing. I found my throw out bearing had no grease left in it. it has a grease zerk but no access holes to get to it!. Kenny >>> Don Harby <harby mim.atc.org> 01/02/01 09:31AM >>>
Will the 300 frame mounts work if moved to the back holes? If not what model truck do i need to get frame mounts from? Also will 300 bellhouseing work? I just need to locate all the parts before I start the swap. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 13:23:09 -0500 From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce an all new club for its members: Club FTE Club FTE was created in order to help the enthusiast go beyond the typical Internet automotive community experience. Its goals: 1. Provide its members with added benefits (listed later in this email). 2. Facilitate both on-line and off-line participation on a local, national and international level. 3. Support the interests of our members in a friendly atmosphere. 4. Preserve the Ford truck, van and SUV hobby and tradition. 5. Provide club sponsored activities. 6. Provide public awareness. 7. Communicate issues of concern to its members. Its benefits: 1. FTE T-Shirt (optional) 2. FTE Bumper sticker. 3. Group Purchase Discounts (first group purchase will be announced later this week) 4. Your own web site featuring: 20 megabytes of web space, no banner ads, online web page editor, no knowledge of HTML is required to edit pages, template based page designer for new users, user insertable page counter and guestbook, users can upload their own files via their web browser, create page templates for users to select from, upload and edit HTML files online, comprehensive user guide, tutorial and context sensitive help. Advanced features include support for tables, META tags and style sheets. 5. Access to members only section of the message boards. 6. Your web site listed in a membership site guide. 7. Submission of your web site to major search engines. 8. Email account. This is a POP email account, you can use the email software of your choice and will not have to use web based email. You have a choice of the following domain names: clubfte.com ford-trucks.net escapeowners.com fordtrucker.com excursionowners.com fordtruckers.com explorerowners.com fordtruckforum.com f100owners.com rangerowners.com f150owners.com supercrewowners.com ford-truckers.com superdutyowners.com 9. Quarterly Newsletter 10. Subscription to a member's only e-mail list. This e-mail list is used to supply SEMA legislative alerts, club announcements, etc. 11. Listing in the member and truck registry. 12. Membership card. 13. Special privileges at the FTE Cruise-In (being planned at this moment). 14. Local chapter registries and web sites, complete with message boards. 15. More features are planned and will be added as membership grows. For more information and/or to join: <a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.clubfte.com/">http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.clubfte.com/</a> Current AFTE members will receive a pro-rated membership to Club FTE. AFTE members should contact me off the list if they wish to join Club FTE. Regards, Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 12:01:14 -0700 From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts Ken, I belonged to AFTE, but I think my one membership ended when I had to resign for my new e-mail account. Just checking with you 1st. -- William (Tony) Whited 74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390 77 F150 Custom 460 El Paso, TX Semper Fi ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 12:02:08 -0700 From: "William (Tony) Whited" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts Sorry about that. "William (Tony) Whited" wrote: > Ken, I belonged to AFTE, but I think my one membership ended when I had to resign > for my new e-mail account. Just checking with you 1st. > > -- > William (Tony) Whited > 74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390 > 77 F150 Custom 460 > El Paso, TX > Semper Fi -- William (Tony) Whited 74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390 77 F150 Custom 460 El Paso, TX Semper Fi ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 14:54:11 -0500 From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: CLUB Ford Truck Enthusiasts Tony, Your AFTE membership is fully transferable. If you resigned with 6 months left, you get 6 months of Club FTE. Just remind me in a couple of days and I'll get it set up. Ken At 02:01 PM 1/2/01, you wrote: >Ken, I belonged to AFTE, but I think my one membership ended when I had to resign >for my new e-mail account. Just checking with you 1st. > >-- >William (Tony) Whited >74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390 >77 F150 Custom 460 >El Paso, TX >Semper Fi ------------------------------ From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Relays and alternator voltage Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 12:11:46 -0900 -----Original Message----- From: G & J Boling <flash1 alltel.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, December 30, 2000 10:17 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Relays and alternator voltage > >just what kind of relay are you speaking of and how expensive are they and >where would you buy them >gordon > Very simple 12v relay, available at most any parts place. I bought Bosch relays, but the "Blazer" brand of lights has one also, and it works just fine. Each one has five terminals. 1: grounded 2: power in (from the alt charge stud) 3: Trigger (I used the OEM light circuit) 4: switched contact (to the low beam, on one side) 5: switched contact (to the low beam, on other side) Repeat for high beams Dont forget to fuse the power in, close to the source. I made up a plug pigtail that went right in to the OEM head light wiring plug, that way there is no splicing in to the OEM wiring. I suggest you soldier all terminals and connections and use heat shrink tube on all connections. Put the relays in a place not as likly to get splashed by water. I used split loom plastic ties and then attached it to the body or other fixed object every few inches to keep it secure and looking good. I did this over six years and not had a problem since. I do keep a spare relay and set of fuses in the glove box for the day one of the relays goes out. Erik Marquez bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78 Home of the BB decal ------------------------------ From: "davewild ford-trucks.net" <davewild ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 23:46:14 GMT Subject: Rust free bed wanted Hey everybody, I just want to say I have been reading the list for a year or so now and just want to thank everybody for the info you all have provide. I need some help finding a rust free bed or just one in good shape for a project I am working on. I have tried hundreds of parts request online, calling local yards, and anything else I can think of. I was wondering if anyone knows of any way to find these. I live in michigan so anything I find is prone to the same problems I already have, RUST. I just think it would be cheaper to buy one in decent shape instead of trying to fix a pile of rotted out metal. I am willing to drive a couple hundred miles to get one. The bed I am looking for is a 1978 standard 8 foot with the dual fuel doors. PLEASE HELP Thanks, David Wild 2 1978 F150's www.geocities.com/davewilds_78f150/index.html Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 16:56:42 -0600 From: "EyEHATE-TTB'z" <dahorse jvlnet.com>
Subject: Re: Rust free bed wanted "davewild ford-trucks.net" wrote:
David.living in Wisconsin I can ceratinly relate to your rust issues. Some way of procuring rust free stuff I have used in the past are as follows! I use vacation to go get em in a southern state..LOL Many places that specialize in this service.(selling rust free stuff) I have a few resources here in Wis i use...depending where in Mch ya are they would mean a fair drive me thinks. I have found many yards in the West.. will crate and ship a box/cab etc if you are willing to front money. sumtimes this is not a bad way to do it...I had a cab for a F-150 shipped to here a few years ago.paid $300 for complete cab...and $350 to ship. but it was nice...and well worth the cash! But best way I have found is to but a complete non running rig down south/west and drive/tow it home...and then use it for parts! Norm > Hey everybody, I just want to say I have been reading the list for a year or > so now and just want to thank everybody for the info you all have provide. > > I need some help finding a rust free bed or just one in good shape for a project > I am working on. I have tried hundreds of parts request online, calling local > yards, and anything else I can think of. I was wondering if anyone knows of > any way to find these. I live in michigan so anything I find is prone to the > same problems I already have, RUST. I just think it would be cheaper to buy > one in decent shape instead of trying to fix a pile of rotted out metal. I am > willing to drive a couple hundred miles to get one. > > The bed I am looking for is a 1978 standard 8 foot with the dual fuel doors. > > PLEASE HELP > Thanks, > David Wild ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 18:48:06 -0800 From: Negative Image <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: 351w question does anyone know of an online diagram of this engine? -- --------------------------- Andrew and Meredith Rolfsen --------------------------- 1962 Ford F100 Flare Side Resto-mod 351c 1967 Mercury Cougar Stnd Resto-mod 289 1968 Mercury Cougar hers 302 1978 Ford econoline 150 mine 351w ------------------------------ From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Guage Troubles Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 21:24:30 -0500 Good call, Don, your idea is now the frontrunner in my plan of attack. Didn't pick up on the fact that the heavy ground strap at the back of the motor is going only to the cab, which rides on rubber cushions mostly. How DO we pick up the frame ground with any real confidence? The tail lights have full 12V potential feeding them, and are by nature high current devices. Mine seem a bit dim, actually. The fuel gauge works at half voltage or less (via IVR) and at just a few milliamps (as required in design to rule out any heating/sparking). Grounds can be fickle- I lost the ground continuity in my steering column (no horn 8<0) after I spent an hour oiling and working that upper U-joint to free it up to move again. Had to bridge over the thing with a piece of wire braid and 2 hose clamps.... Because of temps in the teens, I will be putting off the troubleshooting for a few days as well. ----- Original Message ----- From: Doss Halsey <halsey isl-inc.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 12:26 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Fuel Guage Troubles > > Bob, > > I have often wondered about this myself, as I have a flaky (rear) tank > sender which operates just as you describe (i.e. goes right to E). > Sometimes it works, however. The front tank works fine. I am also curious > about grounds. I re-did the ground into the frame with a new screw. That > did not help. Next, I plan to ground the frame to the engine directly with > an auxilliary ground strap. Our old trucks came with an engine-to-body > ground strap, but rely on the cab mounts to ground the body to the frame. > Age, rust, etc. may interfere with this scheme. One piece of information > which refutes my theory is that the tail lights work. Aren't they grounded > through the frame? I am still wondering, and it is too cold outside for me > to want to do much tinkering. > > Doss Halsey > '67 F250 Camper Special > > > >Yes, I think I've checked everything that I've read about on archive > >messages regarding the gauge system on my '77 F150 4x4. Here's a short > >list: > > >-Replaced IVR- can read the pulsating voltage at the sender wire at tank > >-Short sender wire to ground at tank- good FULL reading on gauge > >-Removed/cleaned/checked sender in tank > >-Read sender resistance w/ DVM- sweeps 85 to 20 ohms (full) > >-Connect sender to harness- always reads EMPTY. Right at E mark, comes up > >off peg a little. > > >I'm left wondering about the integrity of grounds, but all the other gauges > >work OK. I've got real heavy rust in the rear frame area- thinking of > >running a ground wire up to the front chassis from sender. Any other > >suggestions? TIA > > > > > ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 21:36:18 EST Subject: Re: brakes Seems like it would be the MC couse the booster usally does not pump up when it is bad, I should say I have never heard of it happening. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 18:47:34 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: When to give up on a project??? Hey folks. I've been a bit busy lately and it appears that my original reply on this subject a few weeks back got swallowed by the list management software since it was toooo big. In the meantime I've made a few decisions on my truck dilemma and thought I'd pass them on to ya'll. Your comments and suggestions at the time were tremendously helpful. I can't tell you how much it meant to hear from people who've been in the same position before. If you'll recall I was debating about when to give up on a project. Specifically my, just purchased this fall, '79 F-350 4x4. After much thought and discussion with my wife we've decided to keep both trucks. (BTW I've got a great wife who is completely supportive of my addiction, although two is the limit at the moment, so that is not a concern in terms of what to do.) I've decided to concentrate on fixing up the Bronco again for this winter and working on the F-350 as time and money permits. The shop I had the F-350 in got the windshield replaced so now I can go get it. In the meantime I've been working on what remains on my '78 Bronco. I installed the dashboard and a new speedo cable, fixed the wiring issues with brake, reverse, marker, turn signal lights, and cut two nice holes in the floor pans so I can replace the rusted out holes in them. For your perusing I've taken a couple of recent pics of the work I've done on the interior (and what still needs to be done...) They can be seen here. You can also see some pics I took of the F-350's various parts that need work too. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.home.net/ecfinn/ Now all I need for the Bronco is the following: 1. Replace floor pans (does anyone in the Philly area know a good welder?) 2. Take it to shop for new custom dual exhaust system 3. Intall fender liners 4. Find a transmission hump cover for a manual tranny (two holes) 5. Get it inspected So I could use your help on two things. 1. Does anyone have a transmission hump cover for a manual tranny with two holes in it that they'd be willing to sell me? I've tried quite a few truck yards around here and I've found nothing on this one. I need is it the next week or so. 2. Are there any links with help in body work. I've never done any before and I'm unclear about whether I'm prepping this correctly. I've got a full replacement pan for the drivers side and I'm going to find some replacement steel for the holes in the pass. side. Am I correct that I'll need to get the areas clean and clear of rust in order for the welder to work correctly? Any other suggestions on how to properly prep the floor pans would be greatly appreciated. I've responded to a few posts inline below. Hopefully this post will be shorter than the one I sent a few weeks ago... >James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com> wrote:
> Sounds like booster may be leaking (no vac) and/or rusted inside. Do > brakes work well?? Seems everyone says the same thing. I'm almost positive that there is strong vacuum to the booster. I know we hashed this out a while back but is the Bronco booster different from the F-350 booster? If not I've got a good '79 Bronco booster here I could use. The brakes don’t work well at all. They are hard as a rock and very much toward the bottom of the pedal arc. > I swear my 79 F250 has just straps, the frame is sitting next to my > house upside down and I can see gas tank, so I don't think a full > cover > is needed. We are talking rear tank, right, not side tank? Is is std. > tank or oversize tank (did they offer oversize rear tank on F250/350 > like they did on broncos??) Sorry for the confusion. I'm talking about a side tank. There was no rear tank on this truck when I bought it. Maybe I'd be better off installing a used rear tank and scrapping the side tank for now. There are pics on my site so you can see what I’m talking about. I was talking to my buddy who’s an inspection mechanic and he said that the problem might be that there’s nothing underneath the tank itself to shield it from the ground. Would it be possible to put in a rear tank and just use that one instead? It sounds like it might be cheaper than fixing the side tank. > If you don't have the ability to fix most things on an older truck, > then you might want to consider something newer. Welding floors is one > thing, but if you don't feel confident enough to install your own exh > system, then in all honesty, I'm not sure an old truck that needs work > is the vehicle for you at this point (especially since you have one > already). > One thing is that once you get a 70's truck mostly rebuilt, they'll go > another 200K if they don't rot apart in pieces :-) That's the problem. I feel that I do have the ability, just not the experience or first-hand knowledge. I'm a helluva lot more comfortable working on it now than I was back in March I can tell you that. Spending most weekends working on the truck will either drive you crazy or teach you something along the way. I know what you mean. I love the 70's style Ford trucks. I've had my Bronco for 9 years now and after I got it rebuilt the first time it ran a good 7 years before it needed much more than a tune-up. I drove it 20K miles a year for 2 years while in school and it didn't complain at all. I wouldn’t have a problem installing a stock exhaust system but the only part of it that’s currently stock is the manifolds. The real problem is that I under-estimated the work the new truck would need thinking that it'd be easier to fix than what was left on the Bronco. If I'd have spent the time I've taken on the F-350 and working on the Bronco it'd be done too. Dohhhhh! Why is hindsight always so good. --- Gary <gpeters3 lni.net> wrote:
> > The way I look at it is that an old truck is a long (perhaps life long) > project that you have to commit to which means you should look for one > that > has the appeal to keep you interested. > > 1..CAN YOU AFFORD TO OWN ANY KIND OF A TRUCK? > 2..Do you want a project that is an extension of yourself? > 3..Do you enjoy doing things with your hands (like taking all the skin > off > your knuckles :-))? > 4..Do you want a truck that can be upgraded at a cost that can be more > easily justified because the parts to be replaced are not new or nice? > 5..Do you have a reason to have a truck which you can defend in front of > your wife? > 6..Will it be a non-critical vehicle in the family? I'll answer these. 1. YES 2. YES 3. Definitely YES 4. YES - Its easier for me to understand and fix what's wrong with a '70's truck vs. a late model truck although my diagnosing skills have a ways to go. :-) 5. YES - I've got a great wife... 6. It will be once I get my other truck running. Does that count... :-) > The more of these questions you can say yes to the better your purchase > is. > If you can't say yes to at least two of these then perhaps you should > get > out while you can :-( So do I pass? Actually I've pretty much already made my decision but your thoughts were greatly appreciated on this issue here Gary. It did really help to put it all in perspective. BTW What trucks do you own at the moment? > If I were living in an "Inspection" state I would opt for a newer truck > if I > really needed one and make payments on it if I were not mechanically > inclined, that is inclined to do mechanical stuff on a regular bassis, > not > necessarily "Just able" to do it :-) Actually I spent two full days last week outside in 20 degree weather working on my bronco. Does that count as "mechanically inclined" ??? Sorry I don't mean to come across as a smart-ass. I'm not really. Its .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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