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Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 22:41:49 -0500 (EST)
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To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #383
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sat, 30 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 383

In This Issue:
Need Some Stuff
Re: Flush for heater core
Re: Flush for heater core
Re: Distributor Removal/Replacement
66 F-100
Re: 66 F-100
Fuel Gauge Troubles...
Headlight switch
Re: Another headlight question.......
Relays and alternator voltage
Re: Relays and alternator voltage
Re: Relays and alternator voltage
Distributor, Followup
Heater core flush
heater flush
brakes
ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam
Re: Distributer stuff
Re: brakes
Re: brakes
Re: Fuel Gauge Troubles...
Re: Another headlight question.......
Re: 66 F-100
Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam
Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam
brakes
spam
Re: spam
Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam
Re: spam
Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam
dad
E-150, 9" rear
Re: brakes
Re: Fuel Gauge Troubles...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bill Ballinger" <ballingr sbmu.net>
Subject: Need Some Stuff
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:16:37 -0600

>do they look like these

>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacificsites.com/~duckdon/springstuff.htm

Mine have four bolts into the frame, what are those off of?

I also need a center steering link.  The same doofus welded one of
>the tie rod ends to it, I guess it was stripped who knows.  I want
>to replace the tie rod ends too, so I need the center link.
>

I'll have to dig around but I might have one of these also



Thanks Don, much obliged.






------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:33:17 EST
Subject: Re: Flush for heater core




------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:37:23 EST
Subject: Re: Flush for heater core

Azie
 I myself have not had any success with flush kits for heater cores.By the
time I get through with all the B.S. it has always been easier just spend the
$20-$30 bucks to put a new one in.  Never had any problems since.



------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 21:07:57 EST
Subject: Re: Distributor Removal/Replacement

Thier is only the one bolt holding it.  But the bottom of the dis. rides on
the cam gear which sometimes gets stuck from old oil buildup.   Sometimes the
o-ring gets hard and decides it is supposed to be there forever.  So a little
persuation is sometimes helpful.



------------------------------

From: huston kudzumedia.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:58:12 -0500
Subject: 66 F-100


Just got back from checking out the 66 F-100 I mentioned a couple
of weeks ago. There is more rust than I was expecting, but not
enough to keep me from buying it! Actually, I gave a deposit and
will go back and get it in a couple of weeks. Finally, I again have a
full size pick up and a great restoration project that I can also drive.
SWMBO says I have to do something with the 73 Courier now.
That one was a work truck until the engine gave out and the body
is rough. I wonder if it is worth it to rebuild the engine.

Anyway, the 66 is all original from what I can tell, with a 352 that
runs good. The same guy has a 73 pick up for $1200 - that is all I
know about it, I didn't see it. It is in western North Carolina. Let me
know if anyone wants more info and I will check it out when I go
back up there.

Virgil

------------------------------

From: "Keith" <a2jkeith gci.net>
Subject: Re: 66 F-100
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 17:55:26 -0900



-----Original Message-----
From: huston kudzumedia.com <huston kudzumedia.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, December 30, 2000 5:16 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 66 F-100


<SNIP>
>SWMBO says I have to do something with the 73 Courier now.
>That one was a work truck until the engine gave out and the body
>is rough. I wonder if it is worth it to rebuild the engine.
>Virgil
BY ALL MEANS KEEP THE COURIER! ! !!  !! ! I have had quite a few of the
little critters, and by my opinion they can take as much beating as my 71
F250, my last one had 4 front end collisions all at over 50 mph,(Guard
rails, mud walls, ect ect) and all I had to do was find a B2000 or another
courier swap fenders and I was off to the races again. The older 1.8 and
2.3's are almost bullet proof. My last one I drove to Alaska from Oregon,
and ran it out of oil 4 times on the way up (couldnt find the leak.... O
ring on dizzy, Valve Covers, Temp sensor) and I just would put more oil in
and it got me around for over two years after that. I love em, if I ever
move to another state where there is less snow and I lose my obsession for
"Big Manly Trucks" I am gonna have to hunt me down another one to restore.
Anyway,. enough of my endless chatter..
Keith
71 F250 4wd (Cursing garrison and his power assist ..... STILL!)


------------------------------

From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Fuel Gauge Troubles...
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 22:33:12 -0500


Yes, I think I've checked everything that I've read about on archive
messages regarding the gauge system on my '77 F150 4x4.  Here's a short
list:

-Replaced IVR- can read the pulsating voltage at the sender wire at tank
-Short sender wire to ground at tank- good FULL reading on gauge
-Removed/cleaned/checked sender in tank
-Read sender resistance w/ DVM- sweeps 85 to 20 ohms (full)
-Connect sender to harness- always reads EMPTY.  Right at E mark, comes up
off peg a little.

I'm left wondering about the integrity of grounds, but all the other gauges
work OK.  I've got real heavy rust in the rear frame area- thinking of
running a ground wire up to the front chassis from sender.  Any other
suggestions?  TIA

Bob


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Headlight switch
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 21:49:14 -0600

Paul W. writes:  >>  Are the headlight switches in these trucks (mine is a '74)
prone to deterioration w/ heat? Does a new switch generally cure this or do
I need to look elsewhere?  <<

They do deteriorate eventually and a new one should cure the blinking problem.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "paul williams" <williams22470 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Another headlight question.......
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 21:08:09 -0800



From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Another headlight question........
The switch contains a circuit breaker!  The circuit breaker is a
deformed heat sensor type.  If too much current flows the strip of
metal heats up and "snaps" to the open position.  When it cools
it closes again.  This can happen fairly rapidly.  There are a number of
things that can affect the switch.
1) ambient temperature (read hot cab), switch is tired as well
2) larger wattage head lamps than original equipment (read more current)
3) old switch,  as the switch ages its contact resistance goes up.  asthe
contact resistance goes up so does the heat.  This makes the circuit
breaker more sensitive.
I will bet that the flashing happens mostly during "high beam" usage!
Replace the switch and there is a 90% shot that your problem disappears.
    Bill

  Bill, Sounds like you nailed it on this one! Did the same thing to me
again tonight...... I turned the heater off and opened the side vent under
the dash and the blinking quit within a 1/2 mile! As for your bet about high
beams.... You win again, I hardly ever see another vehicle so I use the high
beams about 95% of the time.....Looks like I will be headed for Napa monday
morning. Thanks again    Paul williams
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "paul williams" <williams22470 hotmail.com>
Subject: Relays and alternator voltage
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 21:15:37 -0800


From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Another headlight question........

 add some relays, using voltage from the alt and cure the
switch problem while simultaneously getting brighter lights.
Erik Marquez

Erik,
Could you elaborate on the relay/alt voltage idea? Wiring isnt exactly my
strong point. Thanks   Paul

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Relays and alternator voltage
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:34:14 -0900


Sure can

The idea is simple. At the head light plug your getting about 12v max, more
likely 11.8 or so. At the alt charge stud you get around 14v. The deal is
this. You use the OEM wiring to trigger a relay, that gets is power straight
from the alt charge stud. The power goes from the alt , to the relay, to the
headlight. you are now getting full charge voltage at the head light. Very
big improvement.  This is a great idea if you are running standard head
lights, and IMO required if running higher wattage H4's.

There used to be a write up on the FTE site, but it is now a dead link. I
used to use it to help explain what I did. Guess I'll have to do my own writ
up now. I'll get around to it beginning of next week. If you have more
questions till then just ask. I've been doing this on all my vehicles for a
lot of years.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


-----Original Message-----
From: paul williams <williams22470 hotmail.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, December 30, 2000 8:16 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Relays and alternator voltage


>
>From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
>Subject: Re: Another headlight question........
>
>  add some relays, using voltage from the alt and cure the
>switch problem while simultaneously getting brighter lights.
>Erik Marquez
>
>Erik,
>Could you elaborate on the relay/alt voltage idea? Wiring isnt exactly my
>strong point. Thanks   Paul
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com
>
>


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Relays and alternator voltage
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 02:18:47 -0500


just what kind of relay are you speaking of and how expensive are they and
where would you buy them
gordon


=========================================================
The idea is simple. At the head light plug your getting about 12v max, more
> likely 11.8 or so. At the alt charge stud you get around 14v. The deal is
> this. You use the OEM wiring to trigger a relay, that gets is power
straight
> from the alt charge stud. The power goes from the alt , to the relay, to
the
> headlight. you are now getting full charge voltage at the head light. Very
> big improvement.  This is a great idea if you are running standard head
> lights, and IMO required if running higher wattage H4's.




------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 05:05:26 -0600 (CST)
From: Kourtney Ray de Haas <kourt uts.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Distributor, Followup


Greetings, all:

I took everyone's advice and soaked the area in solvent and then used some
crafty tools (ala hammering and then some vise grips with a cheater
bar) and the distributor popped out.  Thanks for the advice!  I just hope
the rest of the duraspark conversion goes well.

Kourtney de Haas
Austin, TX
70 F100 360cid C6 LWB Yellow Chrome




------------------------------

From: "Harvey, Blaine" <HarveyB sgc.gc.ca>
Subject: Heater core flush
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 10:06:29 -0500


I have used just a garden hose to flush them out--first one direction then
the other, as well I have used a pressure washer. Works like a charm. Of
course if your coolant is dirty and the block ful of sludge, won't be long
before it is crudded up again.

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: heater flush
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 10:04:53 -0500


Azie
the method i sent you to flush your heater will also work well on the block
also but you would need to remove the thermostat tho to do it and let then
engine run WITH the radiator cap on and then cool off real good before
opening it because hot water makes the caustic soda or acid react violently
with each other [boil]
gordon



------------------------------

From: "LaGrone, John" <John.LaGrone killeenisd.org>
Subject: brakes
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 09:13:13 -0600

OK gang, here is the problem: Henry's brakes don't quite work right. He
stops, but the brakes are sort of unpredictable. I have replaced both rear
wheel cylinders, all rear shoes, the master cylinder and the proportioning
valve. All are new. Sometimes the rear brakes grab. Sometimes they don't
work at all (The little red dash light, she works real good). Still other
times everything apparently works like it is supposed to. I can't do a panic
stop at all. I am at my wits end. I have bled and flushed the brake system
until I can't face it any more. Yes, I know how to bench bleed a master
cylinder.

Now for the questions.
1.) What is "gravity bleeding"?
2.) Should I be bleeding the front first or the rear?
3.) Should I bleed farthest from the MC or closest first?

I am open to any and all suggestions. I can drive him, but I don't like it.

--John LaGrone
john.lagrone killeenisd.org
jlagrone ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 10:42:11 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam


Ford Truck Enthusiasts receives about 20-50 spam e-mails per
day.  Fortunately, the list server rejects the postings.
Unfortunately, the rejected e-mails are bounced to the admin
e-mail address (ie, me).

At one point, FTE uses the mail-abuse.org and orbs.org
databases to thwart spam.  This practice was discontinued
because a small percentage of users were unable to send
e-mail to FTE because their ISP is listed in either the
mail-abuse and orbs databases.

There are many reasons for being in one of these databases:

1. ISP was submitted to Orbs for testing and was determined
  to allow SMTP relaying. ie, their system is wide open to
  allowing spammers to bounce mail off their server.
2. ISP was submitted to Orbs for testing and blocked testing.
  Usually, testing is blocked because the ISP knows their
  mail server is insecure and they do not or cannot fix the
  problem.  ***This is the primary reason for some of our
  users being unable to send us mail.***
3. ISP is a known, reported source of spam and was submitted
  to mail-abuse.
4. ISP is a known to allow dial-up users to spam.

Due to the amount of spam received, the mail-abuse and Orbs
lookups have been added back to our mail configuration.  If
your e-mail gets blocked by our server, either pressure your
ISP to fix the problem or switch to an ISP that takes spam
seriously.  Don't take the excuse from them that the Orbs
test isn't acceptable to them.  The only reason for not wanting
to be tested is fear of test failure.  The big boys (AOL,
Mindspring, Earthlink, etc.) aren't afraid of Orbs testing and
neither should the little providers.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: "Scott Jensen" <sjensensr worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Distributer stuff
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 07:36:15 -0800

I've had three dizzies be stubborn like you describe. Two of them were Cleveland's and 1 on my 360. After scratching my head and busting my knuckles on the first one for about 8 hours, I developed a procedure that cut down the time on the others quite a bit.

I take the bolt and   hold down plate off. Spray WD-40 around the base of the dizzy and clean the gunk off. Take a screwdriver and clean up the round seam at the base real good. (Once you DO get the thing off, you'll see that it's probably a hard rubber seal and other places a few inches below the base that are making it stick, so the oil and wait a few days trick doesn't work in this case.)

Next step is to get the dizzy loose. Start turning it back and forth, back and forth. On one that was frozen solid I had to use a small pipe wrench to it. Used cardboard and a rag for protection. Only do this enough to get it started. One you can move it by hand, even a quarter inch either way, it will free up quickly.

Once it rotates freely, try lifting and turning at the same time. Over time on these old engines the oil develops a glaze almost like a ridge on a cylinder wall. Lift and turn, turn and lift. you should see it start to raise up. Even 1/32" is progress. If not, what I've used is a couple little 12" crow bars. One on either side. put some 1by wood material down for padding. Don't use a lot of force and having someone help so you don't lose your leverage points when you turn works well. Eventually, with enough lifting and turning, it WILL pop out.

On 90% of the dizzies I've pulled, they've come right out. Others have been a little stiff. And like I've said, three of them have been monsters, but once out and cleaned up they don't have the problem anymore and it's great to fix that oil leak. Good luck...:)


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: brakes
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 10:25:10 -0600


John, in order to gravity bleed your brakes, make sure the mc is full of
fluid, open a bleeder, and walk away. If you wish, you may use a piece of
vacuum tubing and a bottle or can to catch the fluid. Always start with the
bleeder farthest from the mc. On Ford trucks, start with the right rear,
then the left rear, the right front, and finally the left front. Let them
bleed out for quite awhile, making sure to not let the mc run dry. I bled
one truck for 48 hours, once. It was patricularly stubborn.

Jason Kendrick


------------------------------

From: "bballlauer1" <bballlauer1 email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: brakes
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:16:11 -0600


John: Try new flexible brake hoses. Sometimes they deteriorate from the
inside and cause such erratic complications.    Dick Lauer



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 12:31:23 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge Troubles...


My 79 F150 2nd Tank ALWAYS read empty.  I took the tank out cause the
fill hose cracked so I took the gauge sender out as well.  Guess what I found,
the brass float had a tiny crack in it.  It was partly full of gas so it
sank instead
of floated.  Some careful soldering (with an IRON, NO TORCH) and I now got
my gauge back.

   Bill


At 10:33 PM 12/30/00 -0500, you wrote:

>Yes, I think I've checked everything that I've read about on archive
>messages regarding the gauge system on my '77 F150 4x4.  Here's a short
>list:
>
>-Replaced IVR- can read the pulsating voltage at the sender wire at tank
>-Short sender wire to ground at tank- good FULL reading on gauge
>-Removed/cleaned/checked sender in tank
>-Read sender resistance w/ DVM- sweeps 85 to 20 ohms (full)
>-Connect sender to harness- always reads EMPTY.  Right at E mark, comes up
>off peg a little.
>
>I'm left wondering about the integrity of grounds, but all the other gauges
>work OK.  I've got real heavy rust in the rear frame area- thinking of
>running a ground wire up to the front chassis from sender.  Any other
>suggestions?  TIA
>
>Bob



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 12:33:49 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Another headlight question.......


Enjoy.   And all folks on the list have a happy and FORD toy filled
new year.


At 09:08 PM 12/30/00 -0800, you wrote:


>From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
>Subject: Re: Another headlight question........
>The switch contains a circuit breaker!  The circuit breaker is a
>deformed heat sensor type.  If too much current flows the strip of
>metal heats up and "snaps" to the open position.  When it cools
>it closes again.  This can happen fairly rapidly.  There are a number of
>things that can affect the switch.
>1) ambient temperature (read hot cab), switch is tired as well
>2) larger wattage head lamps than original equipment (read more current)
>3) old switch,  as the switch ages its contact resistance goes up.  asthe
>contact resistance goes up so does the heat.  This makes the circuit
>breaker more sensitive.
>I will bet that the flashing happens mostly during "high beam" usage!
>Replace the switch and there is a 90% shot that your problem disappears.
>      Bill
>
>    Bill, Sounds like you nailed it on this one! Did the same thing to me
>again tonight...... I turned the heater off and opened the side vent under
>the dash and the blinking quit within a 1/2 mile! As for your bet about high
>beams.... You win again, I hardly ever see another vehicle so I use the high
>beams about 95% of the time.....Looks like I will be headed for Napa monday
>morning. Thanks again    Paul williams
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com



------------------------------

From: huston kudzumedia.com
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 12:21:25 -0500
Subject: Re: 66 F-100


Keith,

Yeah, I love that little truck, too, which is probably why I still have
it. I love the way it drives and it is tough as nails. I once moved the
stuff I couldn't fit in a moving truck, which turned out to be way
more than I thought. Since I had to do it in one trip, I piled it on -
looked like the Beverly Hillbillies, but I made it no problem. It is a
lot more practical than the gas guzzler I just bought, but I have
always regretted selling my 72 F-150 and wanted a big truck.

Virgil

> <SNIP>
> >SWMBO says I have to do something with the 73 Courier now.
> >That one was a work truck until the engine gave out and the body is
> >rough. I wonder if it is worth it to rebuild the engine. Virgil

> BY ALL MEANS KEEP THE COURIER! ! !!  !! ! I have had quite a few of
> the little critters, and by my opinion they can take as much beating
> as my 71 F250, my last one had 4 front end collisions all at over 50
> mph,(Guard rails, mud walls, ect ect) and all I had to do was find a
> B2000 or another courier swap fenders and I was off to the races
> again. The older 1.8 and 2.3's are almost bullet proof. My last one I
> drove to Alaska from Oregon, and ran it out of oil 4 times on the way
> up (couldnt find the leak.... O ring on dizzy, Valve Covers, Temp
> sensor) and I just would put more oil in and it got me around for over
> two years after that. I love em, if I ever move to another state where
> there is less snow and I lose my obsession for "Big Manly Trucks" I am
> gonna have to hunt me down another one to restore. Anyway,. enough of
> my endless chatter.. Keith 71 F250 4wd (Cursing garrison and his power
> assist ..... STILL!)
>
>
>



------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 12:26:36 -0600


Making sure I can still e-mail, I can understand the problem with spam, it's
annoying. On a side note =), does anyone know of any good sites about FE's?

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Ken Payne
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 9:42 AM
To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com; 61-79-list ford-trucks.com;
80-96-list ford-trucks.com; 97up-list ford-trucks.com;
small-list ford-trucks.com; perf-list ford-trucks.com;
pre48-list ford-trucks.com; offroad-list ford-trucks.com;
superduty-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam


Ford Truck Enthusiasts receives about 20-50 spam e-mails per
day.  Fortunately, the list server rejects the postings.
Unfortunately, the rejected e-mails are bounced to the admin
e-mail address (ie, me).

At one point, FTE uses the mail-abuse.org and orbs.org
databases to thwart spam.  This practice was discontinued
because a small percentage of users were unable to send
e-mail to FTE because their ISP is listed in either the
mail-abuse and orbs databases.

There are many reasons for being in one of these databases:

1. ISP was submitted to Orbs for testing and was determined
  to allow SMTP relaying. ie, their system is wide open to
  allowing spammers to bounce mail off their server.
2. ISP was submitted to Orbs for testing and blocked testing.
  Usually, testing is blocked because the ISP knows their
  mail server is insecure and they do not or cannot fix the
  problem.  ***This is the primary reason for some of our
  users being unable to send us mail.***
3. ISP is a known, reported source of spam and was submitted
  to mail-abuse.
4. ISP is a known to allow dial-up users to spam.

Due to the amount of spam received, the mail-abuse and Orbs
lookups have been added back to our mail configuration.  If
your e-mail gets blocked by our server, either pressure your
ISP to fix the problem or switch to an ISP that takes spam
seriously.  Don't take the excuse from them that the Orbs
test isn't acceptable to them.  The only reason for not wanting
to be tested is fear of test failure.  The big boys (AOL,
Mindspring, Earthlink, etc.) aren't afraid of Orbs testing and
neither should the little providers.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts





------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:23:57 -0800

As an avid anti SPAM fanatic whose ISP was at one time listed on ORBS I can
certainly sympathize with your situation Ken. Unfortunately there's bound to
be some "collateral damage" in the war against SPAM.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Payne" <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
To: <pre61-list ford-trucks.com>; <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>;
<80-96-list ford-trucks.com>; <97up-list ford-trucks.com>;
<small-list ford-trucks.com>; <perf-list ford-trucks.com>;
<pre48-list ford-trucks.com>; <offroad-list ford-trucks.com>;
<superduty-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 7:42 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam


>
> Ford Truck Enthusiasts receives about 20-50 spam e-mails per
> day.  Fortunately, the list server rejects the postings.
> Unfortunately, the rejected e-mails are bounced to the admin
> e-mail address (ie, me).
>
> At one point, FTE uses the mail-abuse.org and orbs.org
> databases to thwart spam.  This practice was discontinued
> because a small percentage of users were unable to send
> e-mail to FTE because their ISP is listed in either the
> mail-abuse and orbs databases.
>
> There are many reasons for being in one of these databases:
>
> 1. ISP was submitted to Orbs for testing and was determined
>    to allow SMTP relaying. ie, their system is wide open to
>    allowing spammers to bounce mail off their server.
> 2. ISP was submitted to Orbs for testing and blocked testing.
>    Usually, testing is blocked because the ISP knows their
>    mail server is insecure and they do not or cannot fix the
>    problem.  ***This is the primary reason for some of our
>    users being unable to send us mail.***
> 3. ISP is a known, reported source of spam and was submitted
>    to mail-abuse.
> 4. ISP is a known to allow dial-up users to spam.
>
> Due to the amount of spam received, the mail-abuse and Orbs
> lookups have been added back to our mail configuration.  If
> your e-mail gets blocked by our server, either pressure your
> ISP to fix the problem or switch to an ISP that takes spam
> seriously.  Don't take the excuse from them that the Orbs
> test isn't acceptable to them.  The only reason for not wanting
> to be tested is fear of test failure.  The big boys (AOL,
> Mindspring, Earthlink, etc.) aren't afraid of Orbs testing and
> neither should the little providers.




------------------------------

From: "LaGrone, John" <John.LaGrone killeenisd.org>
Subject: brakes
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 14:04:11 -0600

Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to try the gravity bleeding first. I
had been going to the wheels in the right order when I had a helper. I think
the two man bleeding exercise contributed to the proportioning valve
problem, though mine was definitely screwed up. When I am convinced the air
is out and things still don't work, I will buy new hoses. That possibility
had crossed my mind.

--John LaGrone
john.lagrone killeenisd.org
jlagrone ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Dad" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: spam
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 14:09:37 -0600


I think Ken does an excellent job of controlling the spam that goes across
the FTE site. I particularly like his e-mail harvester traps. Shoot, he does
an excellent job administering the whole FTE machine. He has helped me on
many ocassions. Keep up the good work Ken.

--John LaGrone
john.lagrone killeenisd.org
jlagrone ford-trucks.com


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 15:11:09 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: spam


At 03:09 PM 12/31/00, you wrote:

>I think Ken does an excellent job of controlling the spam that goes across
>the FTE site. I particularly like his e-mail harvester traps. Shoot, he does
>an excellent job administering the whole FTE machine. He has helped me on
>many ocassions. Keep up the good work Ken.
>
>--John LaGrone
>john.lagrone killeenisd.org
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com

Thanks John.  If you like the trap, you ought to see the trick in
the archives.  All the in the email addresses there have been
removed and replaced with a graphic that looks the same as the
character.  That way, as far as a harvester is concerned, no
addresses exist.

Ken



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 15:13:02 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam


At 02:23 PM 12/31/00, you wrote:
>As an avid anti SPAM fanatic whose ISP was at one time listed on ORBS I can
>certainly sympathize with your situation Ken. Unfortunately there's bound to
>be some "collateral damage" in the war against SPAM.
>
>/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

Bill,

The way I found out about ORBS is when FTE was put in it after
a spammer discovered a way to bounce spam off the FTE server
and someone reported us.  Luckily, only a few dozen spams where
sent.... some systems are hit with millions.

Ken



------------------------------

From: "Dad" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: spam
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 14:21:57 -0600


> Thanks John.  If you like the trap, you ought to see the trick in
> the archives.  All the in the email addresses there have been
> removed and replaced with a graphic that looks the same as the
> character.  That way, as far as a harvester is concerned, no
> addresses exist.

You are welcome. That is the kind of computer thing that makes FTE so
wonderful to belong to. Only the Ford trucks are better.

--John LaGrone
jlagrone ford-trucks.com


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 12:40:58 -0800

Well at least for now my ISP is back on the right side of the fence. I hope
it stays that way. BTW I also want to thank you for the even-handed, "hands
off" method you use when moderating these forums. I think you do a great
job. Happy New Year to you and yours.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Payne" <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2000 12:13 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: ADMIN: Efforts to stop spam


> Bill,
>
> The way I found out about ORBS is when FTE was put in it after
> a spammer discovered a way to bounce spam off the FTE server
> and someone reported us.  Luckily, only a few dozen spams where
> sent.... some systems are hit with millions.
>
> Ken




------------------------------

From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
Subject: dad
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 14:33:35 -0600

Sorry about the From field in my earlier messages. I wasn't trying to become the list dad or anything. I am using my son's HP. Windows is still a bit of a mystery to me in some areas. With any luck, I now appear as me again. I even found the Auto Signature settings.

--John LaGrone
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
See Henry at: http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 16:39:28 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: E-150, 9" rear


Hey all

Anyone know if the 9" was offset in vans like the D60 (and if spring
pad distance is the same as trucks). Fellow bronc owner is looking to
put a van 9" (late 70's, early 80's) in his full size bronco.

                        OX

------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: brakes
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 17:14:45 -0800


> I am at my wits end. I have bled and flushed the brake system
> until I can't face it any more
>
> I am open to any and all suggestions. I can drive him, but I don't like
it.
>
> --John LaGrone
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

   If you have front disc brakes (1969 F-series) then you must depress the
bleeder button on the metering valve when bleeding the front brakes. It will
also be necessary to centralize the pressure differential valve after
bleeding the system.
   Pressure bleeding does not require an assistant, and is far more
reliable than any other form of brake bleeding. Try to compare the cost of a ....


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