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Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:54:26 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #382
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61-79-list Digest Sat, 30 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 382

In This Issue:
Distributor stuff
brakes/steering wheel/Towncar
Another headlight question........
Re: ADMIN: 74-79 Ford Truck Shop manuals!
Ted Freeman - you out there??
Re: Flush for heater core
test
Re: Another headlight question........
Re: Another headlight question........
Re: Another headlight question........
Re: 300 4bbl additional help?
Re: 300 4bbl install done!
460 Manifold & Carb
Re: Ted Freeman - you out there??
Re: 300 4bbl additional help?
Re: OT: 351w question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "JOHN    HELLDORFER" <john96mom worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Distributor stuff
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 20:42:46 -0800

Hello, If you have the holddown bolt removed that is it!! Try soaking the
base/manifold area with penitrating oil for a day. It will eventually come
out :)

__JOHN___Ford F-250

You write>>
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 16:12:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Kourtney Ray de Haas <kourt uts.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Distributor Removal/Replacement


Greetings,

I have recently acquired a 1970 F100 360 cid, and I'm trying to do the 'ol
Duraspark conversion.  I'm having difficulty removing the distributor body
from the engine.  Can someone please enumerate how the distributor is
removed?  There's a bolt holding a retaining flange, but after removal the
distributor is still pretty stiff.  I'm sort of an amateur, so any help
would be great.  I'm assuming there's some other magical bolt that needs
to be removed.  Otherwise, they only way I can see to remove this thing is
patient, brute force pulling (and that doesn't seem right).

Also, if anyone has any wiring diagrams or other advice for this
conversion, send it my way.  I already have the duraspark unit with the
blue grommet, pulled from a junkyard.

Waiting for help...

Kourtney de Haas
Austin, Texas






------------------------------

From: "LaGrone, John" <John.LaGrone killeenisd.org>
Subject: brakes/steering wheel/Towncar
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 08:48:29 -0600

I got the proportioning valve installed on Henry. Apparently I am too senile
and stupid to bleed brakes anymore. I'll get them straightened out
eventually. SWMBO says that if Henry doesn't change his wicked ways I'll
have to buy a new pickup. I am pretty sick of the brakes right now. I can't
decide whether a new pickup is punishment or not.

I successfully installed the Grant Challenger steering wheel on Henry. It is
smaller than the stock wheel. It is very comfortable when driving and much
quicker to turn. My power steering is in top shape. The only problem I see
is that I can't see the gauges as well as I could. That's the penalty for
being tall. Getting the horn button on was a very frustrating exercise. I
expect it to pop off in my face at any moment.

I got all of the pieces for the Towncar except for the left parking light
lense. I managed to glue a right lense on to get by until I find one. I
found another blown fusible link. This one was just a big block of rubber in
the middle of the wiring harness. It only protected both front marker lights
so I suspect his is why it was so small. Otherwise all I need to finish it
is paint. That will have to wait until the warmer weather.

--John LaGrone
john.lagrone killeenisd.org
jlagrone ford-trucks.com


------------------------------

From: "paul williams" <williams22470 hotmail.com>
Subject: Another headlight question........
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 07:52:41 -0800


  I have been having problems w/ my headlights. They will begin to blink on
and off randomly. This has only happened to me a few times but the
conditions were nearly identical. Extremely cold outside,very warm inside
the cab. Last time this happened I stopped and opened the drivers door and
cooled the cab off..... No more blinking until the cab was hot again. My
question is; Are the headlight switches in these trucks (mine is a '74)
prone to deterioration w/ heat? Does a new switch generally cure this or do
I need to look elsewhere?  Thanks in advance!   Paul Williams
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "craig sharp" <csharp29 home.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: 74-79 Ford Truck Shop manuals!
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 11:28:39 -0500


Figures that I would own a '73! <grin>

I have the 73 manuals in print form but would love a CD because these babies
are FRAGILE!

Are you including a wiring diagram? The shop manuals don't have one but it
sure would be nice to have. I have diagramed about 1/2 of my wiring so far!
<grin>.

Craig


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 10:39:37 -0600
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Ted Freeman - you out there??


Ted Freeman,

Please email me off list at this address if you are still around.  I have
some
parts for you if still interested.

Thanks

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm  (for sale!)

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 11:46:40 EST
Subject: Re: Flush for heater core

Im not sayin this is the problem, but jsut a tip of someting Ive seen. Check
tiy hoses and make sure they are connected right. The Hot water line should
come in to the TOP of the core, not the bottoom. I reversed them once on a
'73 and it made a world of differance..It's teh simple stuff first.

George M in Fl.


In a message dated 12/29/00 10:00:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:


> I have this heat(no heat) problem.  I had to install another radiator in
> this
> vehicle a couple of years ago because I wasn't getting proper cooling.  Now
> the heater core is not transfering heat properly so I think the inside of
> it
> is all crudded up like the flues in my radiator were a couple of years ago.
> What does the knowledgeable people of FTE recommend for a cleaner/flush
> for my particular problem.  I want something that will get the crud out,
> but
> leave my heater core intact(not eat it up).
> Any success stories here?? Recommendations??
>





------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: test
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 11:15:00 -0600


test


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 12:37:17 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Another headlight question........


The switch contains a circuit breaker!  The circuit breaker is a
deformed heat sensor type.  If too much current flows the strip of
metal heats up and "snaps" to the open position.  When it cools
it closes again.  This can happen fairly rapidly.  There are a number of
things that can affect the switch.

1) ambient temperature (read hot cab), switch is tired as well
2) larger wattage head lamps than original equipment (read more current)
3) old switch,  as the switch ages its contact resistance goes up.  as the
contact resistance goes up so does the heat.  This makes the circuit
breaker more sensitive.

I will bet that the flashing happens mostly during "high beam" usage!

Replace the switch and there is a 90% shot that your problem disappears.

    Bill



At 07:52 AM 12/30/00 -0800, you wrote:

>    I have been having problems w/ my headlights. They will begin to blink on
>and off randomly. This has only happened to me a few times but the
>conditions were nearly identical. Extremely cold outside,very warm inside
>the cab. Last time this happened I stopped and opened the drivers door and
>cooled the cab off..... No more blinking until the cab was hot again. My
>question is; Are the headlight switches in these trucks (mine is a '74)
>prone to deterioration w/ heat? Does a new switch generally cure this or do
>I need to look elsewhere?  Thanks in advance!   Paul Williams
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com



------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Another headlight question........
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 09:21:48 -0900



-----Original Message-----
From: paul williams <williams22470 hotmail.com>
Subject: [61-79-list] Another headlight question........


>
>   I have been having problems w/ my headlights. They will begin to blink
on
>and off randomly. This has only happened to me a few times but the
>conditions were nearly identical. Extremely cold outside,very warm inside
>the cab. Last time this happened I stopped and opened the drivers door and
>cooled the cab off..... No more blinking until the cab was hot again. My
>question is; Are the headlight switches in these trucks (mine is a '74)
>prone to deterioration w/ heat?
Age and heat YES, Age, heat and larger wattage lights YES sooner

>Does a new switch generally cure this
Yes again, or add some relays, using voltage from the alt and cure the
switch problem while simultaneously getting brighter lights.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

From: "bballlauer1" <bballlauer1 email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Another headlight question........
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 12:27:02 -0600


Did you ever play basketball?



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 15:08:22 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl additional help?


Hi Sean-

I doubt it's the fuel pump- I'm still running the stock one on mine with a
ton of miles on it- plus, even when you go WOT, you'll still have fuel in
the float bowl.   When tuning my carb, I had to run 2 sizes leaner with
Carter 600cfm on the primaries, and EIGHT sizes richer on the
secondaries.   Are you running a stock cam also?  If you are, they aren't
designed for RPM over 4,000.   Changing a 500cfm 4v to a 2V like your
friend did at the shop isn't actually leaning out the motor-- 2V cfm
ratings are different than 4v ones if memory serves me correctly.  I would
think he actually richened up the motor by putting on the 2v carb depending
on how it was set up when you are talking small 4v carbs.

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com

At 18:38 12/29/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>Here's where my 300 I-6 is right now:
>
>500 cfm Edelbrock carb with single plane intake and headers into duals
>and generic turbo mufflers.  Stock internals (cam, etc).  Idle mix and
>speed were set using a vacuum gauge (got around 19" at idle).
>
>The engine performs great off idle and under light acceleration, but
>it's hugely lean under WOT, especially when the secondaries kick in--the
>engine stumbles, surges, and spits back through the carb.
>
>I tried swapping in richer primary metering rods and secondary jets.
>That didn't do a whole lot--might have improved things a tad below 3000
>rpm, but once I hit 3000, the engine still hits a wall.  I know it's
>not _just_ rpm-related, since the engine makes power up to 4000-4500 under
>partial throttle.  Might even make power beyond that, but I'm afraid
>to find out!
>
>So, what is yall's votes for the problem?
>
>1. Weak fuel pump?  This _is_ the stock pump with ~95k on it.
>
>2. Carb still jetted too lean?  Seems strange for a "race" carb
>to be overly lean from the factory.  I would think they'd err
>on the rich side...
>
>3. Carb simply too big for this engine?  The owner of the shop that
>did my duals just finished replacing an Edelbrock 4bbl with a Holley
>2bbl on a V-6 non Ford...
>
>I'm leaning toward #1.  I suppose I could just replace the pump and
>see what happens.  Either that or borrow a fuel pressure gauge, though
>I'm not sure how I'd get a look at the gauge without either removing
>the hood or temporarily routing the fuel line through the cab...
>
>All ideas appreciated!
>
>--sean


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 15:11:15 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl install done!


Oh yeah- I forgot you are up here in the freezing cold with me-  brain
fart.  -- Just so you know- I ALWAYS had a stumbling at close to WOT in the
wintertime-- this may sound stupid- but something that helped was putting
the closed air cleaner from a V8 onto the sucker and dropping a stovepipe
near the manifold for heat.

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com

At 18:44 12/29/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> > If your truck even runs in this kind of cold we're having with that
> > non-tuned 500 on it, you're already leaps and bounds better off than I was
> > when I did it!
>
>Maybe not--can't seem to shake a lean problem when I floor it.  I'm
>thinking maybe the fuel pump can't keep up.  Did you ever have that
>kind of problem on any of your 300s?
>
>--sean


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 16:13:02 EST
Subject: 460 Manifold & Carb

Howdy folks,

Im huntin for a deal, thought Id check with you guys first, as we all seem to
have a few extra parts layin around.  Does anyone have an Aluminum 4 barrel
manifold for a 429/460 theyd like to part with?  Im lookin for a dual plane
manifold, no tunnel rams :) (not yet anyhow).  Also Im in need of a 750 CFM
holley.  Vacuum secondaries would be nice.  Doesnt need the kickdown
attachment.  Please, If any of you can cut me a deal on this stuff, email me
off list.  Thank you.

Darrell & Tweety (stompin 460 finally goin in)



------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" <oldparts ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Ted Freeman - you out there??
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 17:10:34 -0500


Stu,

Just sent you an email to you off the list.  I thought you were getting my
replies.  Let me know if you get my email off list.

-Ted

P.S.- Sorry gang for the non truck related email.

-----Original Message-----
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, December 30, 2000 12:33 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Ted Freeman - you out there??


>
>Ted Freeman,
>
>Please email me off list at this address if you are still around.  I have
>some
>parts for you if still interested.
>
>Thanks
>
>Stu
>Nuke GM!
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm  (for sale!)
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 17:29:54 -0500
From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl additional help?

> I doubt it's the fuel pump- I'm still running the stock one on mine with a
> ton of miles on it- plus, even when you go WOT, you'll still have fuel in
> the float bowl.   When tuning my carb, I had to run 2 sizes leaner with
> Carter 600cfm on the primaries, and EIGHT sizes richer on the
> secondaries.

Wow--I'm only one size richer so far on the secondaries.  Guess I'll
pick up a bunch of jets at the parts store--oughta be cheaper than
repalcing a fuel pump that might be working okay anyway.

> Are you running a stock cam also?  If you are, they aren't
> designed for RPM over 4,000.

Yep.  Stock cam.

> Changing a 500cfm 4v to a 2V like your
> friend did at the shop isn't actually leaning out the motor-- 2V cfm
> ratings are different than 4v ones if memory serves me correctly.

That's what I was thinking, too.  Essentially like disabling the
secondaries on the existing carb.

--sean

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:52:31 EST
Subject: Re: OT: 351w question

You are correct with the thermustat, the temp. senser is going to be in the
same area.



------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #382
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