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Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 20:15:32 -0500 (EST)
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Thu, 28 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 381

In This Issue:
Re: Headlight switch identification
OT: 351w question
Re: OT: 351w question
Re: OT: 351w question
Re: Built Ford Tough
Movin west
McCullogh Supercharger for 1937 Ford V8s
Thanks
Flush for heater core
400 mount up to 460 C-6 tranny
Re: 400 mount up to 460 C-6 tranny
Re: Built Ford Tough
5 SPEED AUTOMATIC
Re: 5 SPEED AUTOMATIC
Re: 5 SPEED AUTOMATIC
ADMIN: 74-79 Ford Truck Shop manuals!
Need some stuff
Re: Need some stuff
Distributor Removal/Replacement
Re: 300 4bbl carb
Re: 300 4bbl carb
Re: Distributor Removal/Replacement
300 4bbl additional help?
Re: 300 4bbl install done!
Re: 300 4bbl install done!
Re: 300 4bbl install some more questions
Re: 300 4bbl install some more questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 18:59:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification
From: Josh Keady <keady wizzards.net>


Switch in, fuse replaced, lights work.  Never realized how nice it is to see
your gauges when it's night... and as an added bonus, I can finally put a
fuse in for the courtesy lights without it blowing every time I turn on the
headlights (dimmer switch would occasionally spark when the switch went on,
causing both the instrument panel light fuse and the courtesy light fuse to
blow.)

As for the Elite... yeah, I imagine it was a pretty neat car (I'm only 17,
so I don't have much first-hand experience)  I've seen some websites
dedicated to it, and it looks pretty classy.

We had a '74 Ranchero for quite a while, and used it to tow our 17' travel
trailer.  The trailer is a '63 Ideal that weighs a couple of million
pounds... we had a weight distribution hitch, but because of the relatively
light-duty coil springs in the rear, we had to put way too much weight on
the front end of the Ranchero to keep the back end from sitting too low.
Every winter, after we were done with our camping trips you could notice a
difference in the ride-height... in pictures between about 1991 and 1995 you
can see that the rear is gradually pointing more sky-ward and the front end
is getting ever-closer to the ground.  It was a pretty solid rig, however.
Dad sold the Ranchero in 1995 for a 1970 Chevy Custom Camper/20 with a 350,
and as Chevy trucks go, it's none too bad.  (The F-350 was my grandpa's
incase you're wondering how that fits in to the picture :-)</lifestory>

Anyhow, thanks for the help,

Josh

1977 F-350 XLT Ranger Camper Special

on 12/28/00 2:26 PM, G & J Boling at flash1 alltel.net wrote:


> ======================================================
> i had one of those torinos and they sure would hold a curve well tho even if
> they were odd looking to some folks that heavy front end would hold right
> onto the road
> gordon
>
>
>


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 22:04:09 EST
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification

In a message dated 12/28/2000 6:59:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
keady wizzards.net writes:


> Josh
>
> 1977 F-350 XLT Ranger Camper Special
>

Hey what engine you have in that thing?

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 19:51:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification
From: Josh Keady <keady wizzards.net>


460 w/ 62k original miles on it.

Josh

on 12/28/00 7:04 PM, JUMPINFORD aol.com at JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/28/2000 6:59:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> keady wizzards.net writes:
>
>
>> Josh
>>
>> 1977 F-350 XLT Ranger Camper Special
>>
>
> Hey what engine you have in that thing?
>
> Darrell & Tweety
>
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 21:51:26 -0800
From: Negative Image <negativeimage earthlink.net>
Subject: OT: 351w question


i've got a 1978 ford econoline e150 with a 351w in it. the temperature
guage has gone out on it. where is it on this motor? also the thermostat
should be where the upper hose fits in right?

--
---------------------------
Andrew and Meredith Rolfsen
---------------------------
1962 Ford F100 Flare Side  Resto-mod 351c
1967 Mercury Cougar Stnd Resto-mod 289
1968 Mercury Cougar   hers   302
1978 Ford econoline 150  mine   351w



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 23:42:02 -0500
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Re: OT: 351w question


The thermostat is (just follow the upper hose) where the hose mounts to the
block
2 bolts maybe 3 and shes off..the temp sending unit is right behind the
distributor on the intake manifold( look for a sender with 1 wire attached
to it)
Joe

Negative Image wrote:

> i've got a 1978 ford econoline e150 with a 351w in it. the temperature
> guage has gone out on it. where is it on this motor? also the thermostat
> should be where the upper hose fits in right?
>
> --
> ---------------------------
> Andrew and Meredith Rolfsen
> ---------------------------
> 1962 Ford F100 Flare Side  Resto-mod 351c
> 1967 Mercury Cougar Stnd Resto-mod 289
> 1968 Mercury Cougar   hers   302
> 1978 Ford econoline 150  mine   351w


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: OT: 351w question
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 23:50:36 -0500


The thermostat is (just follow the upper hose) where the hose mounts to the
> block
> 2 bolts maybe 3 and shes off
=================================================
be carefull when installing the new stat the housings are brittle and tend
to break off if the new stat isnt mounted in it perfectly before tightening
it down
gordon



------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 02:48:10 EST
Subject: Re: Built Ford Tough


Thanks a bunch for all the inputs. I hadn't considered the Ford dealer though
partly cause I don't have any good contacts there and it's age. Once I did
get a front pan for a 69 mustang from the dealer though so I guess I
shouldn't rule em out just yet.

As for the shell replacement, yes I still have the front wheel tubs in place
so I guess they'll be coming out for a while also. Rust shouldn't be too much
of a problem as it lived for 15+ years as a Texas truck before moving to
Florida (I know where all the paint flaws are now as the rust has taken it's
place, next project after working the front end and some more minor engine
work).

George M in Fl.
79 Bronco 400 & C6
91 Taurus 3.0 & AXOD
92 E150 Conversion, 5.0 & A4OD (I thinks)


In a message dated 12/28/00 8:21:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ecfinn yahoo.com writes:

<<
--- GMontgo930 aol.com wrote:
> How hard is it to replace the grill shell? I've done bumpers before but
> never
> the grill shell. From what I see, it's not too difficult. I've started
> pricing the parts through LMC but have some other sources to checkout
> also,
> like Autocrafters. Anybody have some other recommendations as to
> sources?

As far as I can tell the new parts that most places sell are all made by
Dennis-Carpenter so you might want to check with them first.  I've been
pricing floor pans and found them at Autokrafters, Mills Supply, JC
Whitney, LMC Truck, Dennis Carpenter, and a few other places.  They all
seem to be the same part.  Autokrafters catalog even says that they carry
parts from DC.  I ended up purchasing from JCWhipme since they had a sale
on the items.  According to my JCW catalog you're looking for part
#94EF7711BF and its listed as $139.95 in the May sale catalog I've got.
Most of their stuff doesn't appear on the website so you'll probably have
to call em.

In any case the grille shell isn't that hard to do.  You'll have to remove
the headlights, the bumper, and the fender liners.  The reason for the
fender liners is that there a number of bolts (maybe 4 per side) that bolt
through from inside the fenders that are a pita to get to.  You'll need a
long extension for most and possibly a swivel socket for the top-most one.
 It took me about an hour to put mine back on during my Bronco swap
project during the summer.

If you've got any other questions just ask.  I've been through most all of
the parts on my '78 vintage bronco at one point in time in the past 9
months.
 >>

------------------------------

From: "Jack Porter" <tporter bright.net>
Subject: Movin west
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 03:44:00 -0500

I have two fine F100s I need to leave in Ohio or adjcent state.does anyone have a idea on the best way to do this? 71 s/b w/massaged 460(could be show quality)68 l/bsemi fresh 390, auto p/s p/b. super solid work truck. any info appreciated.  JP


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 05:44:35 -0600
From: "George Ramsower, San Antonio, TEXAS!" <georgeram stic.net>
Subject: McCullogh Supercharger for 1937 Ford V8s


For those of you who may be interested, I have an old ad for a
McCullogh supercharger to fit Ford V8s in 1937. The image of this ad is
available to all FTE members that want to download it at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.TheTinBox.com/FordSupercharger.htm.
The downloadable image is printer friendly, and looks pretty good if
printed from a decent printer. The instructions are on the page listed
above.
Even if you don't download and print the image, it is still an
interesting ad to look at.

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Thanks
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 07:12:09 -0600

To Woody of Aurora, Co.::

Thank you - Thank you  - Thank you very much.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Flush for heater core
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 08:55:50 -0600

I have this heat(no heat) problem.  I had to install another radiator in this
vehicle a couple of years ago because I wasn't getting proper cooling.  Now
the heater core is not transfering heat properly so I think the inside of it
is all crudded up like the flues in my radiator were a couple of years ago.
What does the knowledgeable people of FTE recommend for a cleaner/flush
for my particular problem.  I want something that will get the crud out, but
leave my heater core intact(not eat it up).
Any success stories here?? Recommendations??

Thanks
Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 08:57:27 -0700
From: "William Whited (Tony)" <f10074 ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 400 mount up to 460 C-6 tranny


Will a 400 fit in a truck that had a 460 in it?  i.e... will it bolt up
to the C-6 and the motor mounts?  TIA

--
William (Tony) Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 400 mount up to 460 C-6 tranny
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 10:22:17 -0600


Tony, I know that a 400 will fit where a 460 was, but only from reading the
posts of fellow FTE writers. I have no first hand knowledge on the subject.
Everything will pretty much bolt right up except mabye the exhaust and the
motor mounts??? I'm sure others will be better able to inform you on the
subject.
Jason Kendrick






------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 13:59:52 -0500
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Built Ford Tough


>As for the shell replacement, yes I still have the front wheel tubs in place
>so I guess they'll be coming out for a while also. Rust shouldn't be too much
>of a problem as it lived for 15+ years as a Texas truck before moving to
>Florida (I know where all the paint flaws are now as the rust has taken it's
>place, next project after working the front end and some more minor engine
>work).

Actually, I found that not having those plastic wheel tubs in place allows
dirt and snow and crap to get kicked up into the door hinge. It gets throw
right up along that front fender and makes a good mess. If you actually get
in there with a spray hose on a semi-regular basis and clean it out, it's
probably not a concern but I'm real lazy about washing any part of my
trucks...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 5 SPEED AUTOMATIC
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 13:16:10 -0600

Need the help of you folks that keep abrest of FOMOCO's latest offerings.

On Ebay(Item 532662520) is what is listed as a 5 speed automatic.  I did not
know that there was such an offering as a 5 speed auto.  Looking at the 2nd
pic down it looks as if the "bellhousing" will seperate from the trans case..  If
so, then my question is"  Does(or did) Ford offer this tranny behind the 5.0L??
Is it reliable??

Can you hear the grinding of the cogs as my mind runs away thinking of the
possibilities??

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" <Josh.Nichols svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: 5 SPEED AUTOMATIC
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 11:25:09 -0800


not sure if you can get one behind a 5.0, But they have been  availabe
behine the 4.0L in the ranger for a few years, and I assume the Explorer
also had it.

Josh

-----Original Message-----
From: Azie L. Magnusson [mailto:maggie11 HiWAAY.net]
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 11:16 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] 5 SPEED AUTOMATIC


Need the help of you folks that keep abrest of FOMOCO's latest offerings.

On Ebay(Item 532662520) is what is listed as a 5 speed automatic.  I did not

know that there was such an offering as a 5 speed auto.  Looking at the 2nd
pic down it looks as if the "bellhousing" will seperate from the trans
case..  If
so, then my question is"  Does(or did) Ford offer this tranny behind the
5.0L??
Is it reliable??

Can you hear the grinding of the cogs as my mind runs away thinking of the
possibilities??

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 5 SPEED AUTOMATIC
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 13:33:14 -0600


Can you hear the grinding of the cogs as my mind runs away thinking of the
possibilities??
Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.

Not only that, I can hear the cogs grinding in the tranny right before the
case busts and spews its innards all over the road, behind anything bigger
than a 351W. I'd find out what the torque limitations on this tranny is
before making any plans. :-)

Jason Kendrick


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 15:02:45 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: 74-79 Ford Truck Shop manuals!


Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce the
availability of 1974 - 1979 Ford Truck Shop Manuals on
CD-ROM!

We've sold these for 1932-1972 for about 6 months and a
common inquiry concerned the availability of 73-79
manuals.

Now 74-79 are available (73 not yet available).  These
are licensed Ford manuals and far exceed the quality and
content of after market manuals.  Each CD-ROM contains
hundreds of pages of content, a viewer/navigation/printing
program, illustrations, service procedures, specs, and
much more.  This manual is the service manual used by
dealer techs.

For a limited time, the manuals are 10% off.  You can order
them on our web site at:

http://www.motorhaven.com/

Regards,
Ken Payne
Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: "Bill Ballinger" <ballingr sbmu.net>
Subject: Need some stuff
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 15:35:00 -0600

As most of you know I have a '65 F250 4X4 that i drive every day.  I need a couple of pieces for it that don't seem to grow on trees.

I need a shackle bracket for the rear of the driver's side front spring.  Some doofus broke it and welded it up to where you can't get the bolt out to replace the spring bushing.  I want to rebush the front springs.

I also need a center steering link.  The same doofus welded one of the tie rod ends to it, I guess it was stripped who knows.  I want to replace the tie rod ends too, so I need the center link.

I would think that the one-ton 2WDs up to '66 would be the same on both things, if anyone has a parts truck please let me know.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 13:59:41 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Need some stuff


>As most of you know I have a '65 F250 4X4 that i drive every day.  I
>need a couple of pieces for it that don't seem to grow on trees.
>
>I need a shackle bracket for the rear of the driver's side front
>spring.  Some doofus broke it and welded it up to where you can't
>get the bolt out to replace the spring bushing.  I want to rebush
>the front springs.

do they look like these

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacificsites.com/~duckdon/springstuff.htm

>I also need a center steering link.  The same doofus welded one of
>the tie rod ends to it, I guess it was stripped who knows.  I want
>to replace the tie rod ends too, so I need the center link.
>

I'll have to dig around but I might have one of these also
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 16:12:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Kourtney Ray de Haas <kourt uts.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: Distributor Removal/Replacement


Greetings,

I have recently acquired a 1970 F100 360 cid, and I'm trying to do the 'ol
Duraspark conversion.  I'm having difficulty removing the distributor body
from the engine.  Can someone please enumerate how the distributor is
removed?  There's a bolt holding a retaining flange, but after removal the
distributor is still pretty stiff.  I'm sort of an amateur, so any help
would be great.  I'm assuming there's some other magical bolt that needs
to be removed.  Otherwise, they only way I can see to remove this thing is
patient, brute force pulling (and that doesn't seem right).

Also, if anyone has any wiring diagrams or other advice for this
conversion, send it my way.  I already have the duraspark unit with the
blue grommet, pulled from a junkyard.

Waiting for help...

Kourtney de Haas
Austin, Texas




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 17:18:01 -0500
From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl carb

> This is for the guy who just put the 4bbl on his 300 six. Do you know how much
> that modification affected your gas mileage?

Don't know yet.  I haven't put the truck back in everyday service yet.
I still have a few bugs to work out.  See my other post for the
details...

--sean

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 18:01:42 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl carb


For what it's worth- running my 600 carter on mine with dual manifolds, on
a 3.50 geared 1/2 ton 4x4 with 33x12.5's I went from 13 mpg, to 16
mpg...  (it was on a brand new motor with single barrel, then about a
couple months later went to 4V carb- so I didn't rebuild or touch anything
inbetween change.  8-)

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com


At 17:18 12/29/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> > This is for the guy who just put the 4bbl on his 300 six. Do you know
> how much
> > that modification affected your gas mileage?
>
>Don't know yet.  I haven't put the truck back in everyday service yet.
>I still have a few bugs to work out.  See my other post for the
>details...
>
>--sean


------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 18:22:56 EST
Subject: Re: Distributor Removal/Replacement


In a message dated 12/29/2000 2:11:29 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kourt uts.cc.utexas.edu writes:

<< therwise, they only way I can see to remove this thing is
patient, brute force pulling (and that doesn't seem right).
 >>
Some times these distributors get stuck due to varnish and guck build up on
the distributor and internal block areas.  After removing the bolt and hold
down bracket the housing should rotate.  If it does, rotate it back and forth
while pulling up.  You might want to spray some WD-40 or similar solvent
around the housing where it exits the block.  It should come out.  If it will
not rotate then you are in for a rough go at it.  20 years ago I bought a
Snap-On distributor adapter to attach to a slid hammer, it was "U" shaped and
went between the block and distributor.  It works wonderfully, I have removed
many distributors with out harm.  However, using screw drivers, pry-bars, and
brute force I have broken many distributors (the castings break easily).  One
about a year ago, (yeah, too big of a hurry and did not use the slide hammer)
price of a replacement distributor is around $32.00 with trade in.  Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 18:38:31 -0500
From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: 300 4bbl additional help?

Here's where my 300 I-6 is right now:

500 cfm Edelbrock carb with single plane intake and headers into duals
and generic turbo mufflers.  Stock internals (cam, etc).  Idle mix and
speed were set using a vacuum gauge (got around 19" at idle).

The engine performs great off idle and under light acceleration, but
it's hugely lean under WOT, especially when the secondaries kick in--the
engine stumbles, surges, and spits back through the carb.

I tried swapping in richer primary metering rods and secondary jets.
That didn't do a whole lot--might have improved things a tad below 3000
rpm, but once I hit 3000, the engine still hits a wall.  I know it's
not _just_ rpm-related, since the engine makes power up to 4000-4500 under
partial throttle.  Might even make power beyond that, but I'm afraid
to find out!

So, what is yall's votes for the problem?

1. Weak fuel pump?  This _is_ the stock pump with ~95k on it.

2. Carb still jetted too lean?  Seems strange for a "race" carb
to be overly lean from the factory.  I would think they'd err
on the rich side...

3. Carb simply too big for this engine?  The owner of the shop that
did my duals just finished replacing an Edelbrock 4bbl with a Holley
2bbl on a V-6 non Ford...

I'm leaning toward #1.  I suppose I could just replace the pump and
see what happens.  Either that or borrow a fuel pressure gauge, though
I'm not sure how I'd get a look at the gauge without either removing
the hood or temporarily routing the fuel line through the cab...

All ideas appreciated!

--sean


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 18:40:26 -0500
From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl install done!

> > www.cns.ohiou.edu/~somalley/ford/
>
> checked out the results didn't think you could get that sound out of a I 6.

Well, if you think about it, the cylinders on a 300 are equivalent in
volume to a 400 V-8...

> Also good tech tips if someone else wants to do same .

Thanks.  They'll be even better once I get my WOT lean problem
corrected...

--sean

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 18:44:00 -0500
From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl install done!

> If your truck even runs in this kind of cold we're having with that
> non-tuned 500 on it, you're already leaps and bounds better off than I was
> when I did it!

Maybe not--can't seem to shake a lean problem when I floor it.  I'm
thinking maybe the fuel pump can't keep up.  Did you ever have that
kind of problem on any of your 300s?

> Happy motoring- when you get the bugs worked out of it you'll have to come
> north to Akron to take me for a ride!

Might just be able to do that some day :).

--sean

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 16:22:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl install some more questions


I have some questions for the crew out there on the internet world.  I have a 79
with a 300 and a 4bl ecnomizer i think is the type not sure size and want to say the
brand is holly or edlebrokei need to check but none the less i have a manul choke on
it and boy i am not sure f it even works so maybe a few tips to check if it is
working and the major question is that when cold and even some times when warm if i
floor it and let out the cluth is bogs for a sec and since i am impatent with it i
floor it and dump the cluth and basically roast it out not healthy i know.  BUt what
is causing this wondering if the stock fule pump is not keeping up with it and it is
something simple like that.  Also one more quick one since i am picking peoples
brains out there I have an offenhauser intake on what kind of header will fit and
what cost.  The orginal owner had one on it before it cracked and he put the stock
on back on it.  Thanks in advance for your help

Chris
79 Ford F-150
92 Jeep Wrangler

=====
With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was fool proof he headed off to her place.  He yelled out his feelings amoung other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 16:22:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl install some more questions


I have some questions for the crew out there on the internet world.  I have a 79
with a 300 and a 4bl ecnomizer i think is the type not sure size and want to say the
brand is holly or edlebrokei need to check but none the less i have a manul choke on
it and boy i am not sure f it even works so maybe a few tips to check if it is
working and the major question is that when cold and even some times when warm if i
floor it and let out the cluth is bogs for a sec and since i am impatent with it i
floor it and dump the cluth and basically roast it out not healthy i know.  BUt what
is causing this wondering if the stock fule pump is not keeping up with it and it is
something simple like that.  Also one more quick one since i am picking peoples
brains out there I have an offenhauser intake on what kind of header will fit and
what cost.  The orginal owner had one on it before it cracked and he put the stock
on back on it.  Thanks in advance for your help

Chris
79 Ford F-150
92 Jeep Wrangler

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With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was fool proof he headed off to her place.  He yelled out his feelings amoung other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough. ....

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