Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Thu, 28 Dec 2000 20:06:22 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 20:06:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #380
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck  Mailing  List

Visit our  web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject  of  the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 27 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 380

In This Issue:
gear pattern pictures
Re: Headlight switch identification
Handy storage idea
Built Ford Tough
Re: Built Ford Tough
Re: Built Ford Tough
Re: Model TT Truck Help Needed
fusible link
Re: Headlight switch identification
Re: Built Ford Tough
Re: Headlight switch identification
Re: Built Ford Tough

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 17:55:41 -0800
Subject: Headlight switch identification
From: Josh Keady <keady wizzards.net>


Okay, folks, here's the situation:

I have a '77 F-350 Camper Special whose headlight switch has gone south in
that the resistor spring that dims the instrument panel got all corroded and
broke.

My friend has a '75 Elite (a lot like the LTD and Torino of the time)
rusting away in his yard that has a perfect interior, and, lucky for me, a
perfect headlight switch.

So this evening I pulled the switches out of both vehicles to compare.  The
connectors are exactly the same, the housings are exactly the same, and the
dimming mechanisms are exactly the same.

My problem (...paranoia, but that's for a therapist to hear) is the numbers
on the outer housings of the switches.  The one from the '75 is part#
D2AB-11654-AIA.  Also printed on it (in smaller type) is 3 H D and of
course, Motorcraft.  The switch from the '77 has the lettering
D7TR-11654-AA, the letters 7 C A and also, of course yet again, Motorcraft.

What I need you helpful folks to tell me, is that these switches are
internally exactly the same, and I can go ahead and put the Elite's
headlight switch in the F-350 without melting anything... or everything
(unlikely, I know, but you don't know me.)

As an aside, if anyone is looking for a complete 400M or C4 tranny or
anything that the Elite has, send me some mail.  He'll no doubt part with
most anything on the car for a reasonable price. Heavy stuff will probably
have to be picked up, so it will require making a journey to So. Oregon.
Bucket seats, factory tach, it's all there... well, no headlight switch.

Josh Keady

1979 F-350 XLT Ranger Camper Special


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 18:01:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification
From: Josh Keady <keady wizzards.net>


Oops, that should be 1977, not '79... it's been a long day.

Josh

on 12/27/00 5:55 PM, Josh Keady at keady wizzards.net wrote:


>
> 1979 F-350 XLT Ranger Camper Special
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 21:09:32 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: gear pattern pictures



Took a couple of quick pics of the gear patterns on both D44 diffs
before
taking them apart to swap gears.

Here is drive side of the 4.10 gears. Look close you can see the grey
area (for those that never set up gears), that is where gear teeth mesh.
Anyway, although this pattern runs along center of gear tooth (not
running off either end), it is too close to the top of gear teeth. It
needs to be deeper to be optimum (I would think :-)).

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/gears/410drive.jpg

This shows the 4.10 coast side. Not even close, gear meshes on upper
right side of tooth and runs off inner (toe) side of gear. Don't think
this was set up correctly and I don't think it was factory (even though
gears are dana) as area around pin for cross shaft is hacked all up like
someone couldn't get pin out.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/gears/410coast.jpg

This drive pattern on 3.54 gear is pretty good, wierd it seems to have
heavier contact at inner (toe) and outer (heel) ends of gear tooth, but
at least it covers entire tooth.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/gears/354drive.jpg

Coast side of 3.54 is almost perfect, according to ford shop manual.
Nice pattern, just hair closer to toe side, not too high or low and not
running off either edge.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/gears/354coast.jpg

So, looks like I'll try the +/- pinion shim thing according to pinion
heads and see how it goes. Would sure beat setting it up from scratch
like I did the D60 rear. I wonder if it makes a difference that I'm
changing carrriers going to 4.10??

                                 OX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 21:16:01 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification


Just for the heck of it I looked at wrenchhead.com and compared the
headlamp switch numbers.  They are different.  If I remember right
the elite had single large lamps.  This means that the truck and
the car should have the same head lamp load.  If the pinout is the same
I might try it.  Good luck.

If the Elite had hidden lamps then it is different because ther maybe a
vacuum port on the switch.

All in all it may work except for the circuit breaker rating.

Does your truck have roof top clearance lamps?

At 05:55 PM 12/27/00 -0800, you wrote:

>Okay, folks, here's the situation:
>
>I have a '77 F-350 Camper Special whose headlight switch has gone south in
>that the resistor spring that dims the instrument panel got all corroded and
>broke.
>
>My friend has a '75 Elite (a lot like the LTD and Torino of the time)
>rusting away in his yard that has a perfect interior, and, lucky for me, a
>perfect headlight switch.
>
>So this evening I pulled the switches out of both vehicles to compare.  The
>connectors are exactly the same, the housings are exactly the same, and the
>dimming mechanisms are exactly the same.
>
>My problem (...paranoia, but that's for a therapist to hear) is the numbers
>on the outer housings of the switches.  The one from the '75 is part#
>D2AB-11654-AIA.  Also printed on it (in smaller type) is 3 H D and of
>course, Motorcraft.  The switch from the '77 has the lettering
>D7TR-11654-AA, the letters 7 C A and also, of course yet again, Motorcraft.
>
>What I need you helpful folks to tell me, is that these switches are
>internally exactly the same, and I can go ahead and put the Elite's
>headlight switch in the F-350 without melting anything... or everything
>(unlikely, I know, but you don't know me.)
>
>As an aside, if anyone is looking for a complete 400M or C4 tranny or
>anything that the Elite has, send me some mail.  He'll no doubt part with
>most anything on the car for a reasonable price. Heavy stuff will probably
>have to be picked up, so it will require making a journey to So. Oregon.
>Bucket seats, factory tach, it's all there... well, no headlight switch.
>
>Josh Keady
>
>1979 F-350 XLT Ranger Camper Special



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 18:35:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification
From: Josh Keady <keady wizzards.net>


Yes, one headlight per-side on the Elite, no headlight covers, no excess
lighting except for factory cargo-light that has its own switch.

Guess I'll give the switch a try.

Thanks,

Josh


on 12/27/00 6:16 PM, William D. Poudrier at vze259s7 verizon.net wrote:

>
> Just for the heck of it I looked at wrenchhead.com and compared the
> headlamp switch numbers.  They are different.  If I remember right
> the elite had single large lamps.  This means that the truck and
> the car should have the same head lamp load.  If the pinout is the same
> I might try it.  Good luck.
>
> If the Elite had hidden lamps then it is different because ther maybe a
> vacuum port on the switch.
>
> All in all it may work except for the circuit breaker rating.
>
> Does your truck have roof top clearance lamps?
>


------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" <pdesanto Cinergy.com>
Subject: Handy storage idea
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 00:12:07 -0500


Hi all- I ran across something this week that might help somebody with a 61
to 66 F-series if you'd like a little extra storage in your cab, and don't
have the Custom Cab's storage bins in the doors.
 I was working on the heater in my son's 90 Plymouth Acclaim and had to
pull the glovebox out. Well, it comes out as an assembly. It's 8.5" X 20",
has a flat, lockable, plastic door and the lighted storage compartment is
all attached by a spring loaded piano hinge. It's not as big and deep as the
regular bin, but it's better than nuthin. I held it up to the door openings
in my 64, and it would fit in the removable panel with minor tweaking. It's
about 5" deep, and has a few slots for cassettes to. It may also work on
other years , but not as easy as the ones with the access panels. Hope this
helps somebody. Phil

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 02:29:55 EST
Subject: Built Ford Tough


Just thought I'd let yall know that I'm headed for some minor body work on my
'79 Bronco. On the 23'd while teaching my daughter to drive (her first night
trip), she decided to initiate a 3 vehicle pileup with said Bronco, a 2000
Explorer (as the middle man) and a 2000 Taurus (as the front vehicle). All
said, the damage is not too bad, bumper and the grill shell took the beating.
That 1/2" steel frame mounted tow bar on the front of my bronco really saved
it! The Explorer didn't look too bad (though you could clearly see the tow
bar imprint in it's rear end), but the Taurus has problems.

How hard is it to replace the grill shell? I've done bumpers before but never
the grill shell. From what I see, it's not too difficult. I've started
pricing the parts through LMC but have some other sources to checkout also,
like Autocrafters. Anybody have some other recommendations as to sources?

As always, thanks in advance. Wish me luck in the repairs (and the driving
lessons also). I'm just glad we were in something stout and not my 91 Taurus
or 92 E150!

George M in Fl.

------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: Built Ford Tough
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 05:51:21 -0500


It's pretty easy.  Just a few bolts placed around the framework.  I'd say
most of the time is spent finding the bolts and making sure each one is out.
Those two sources are most likely your best bet for a brand new shell,
though I think there are two on ebay at the moment going for much less than
what you'd pay at one of these aforementioned companies.

Aren't 79's great?!  I smaked the back of a brand new BMW a few years ago...
Caused a couple thousand dollars worth of damage to the beemer, still
haven't "fixed" my truck, but you might not know I hit anything if I didn't
tell you what to look at.

good luck,

-bob-
79 Bronco 460 44's T18
79 Bronco 400 40's C6


----------How hard is it to replace the grill shell?



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 05:20:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Built Ford Tough


--- GMontgo930 aol.com wrote:
> How hard is it to replace the grill shell? I've done bumpers before but
> never
> the grill shell. From what I see, it's not too difficult. I've started
> pricing the parts through LMC but have some other sources to checkout
> also,
> like Autocrafters. Anybody have some other recommendations as to
> sources?

As far as I can tell the new parts that most places sell are all made by
Dennis-Carpenter so you might want to check with them first.  I've been
pricing floor pans and found them at Autokrafters, Mills Supply, JC
Whitney, LMC Truck, Dennis Carpenter, and a few other places.  They all
seem to be the same part.  Autokrafters catalog even says that they carry
parts from DC.  I ended up purchasing from JCWhipme since they had a sale
on the items.  According to my JCW catalog you're looking for part
#94EF7711BF and its listed as $139.95 in the May sale catalog I've got.
Most of their stuff doesn't appear on the website so you'll probably have
to call em.

In any case the grille shell isn't that hard to do.  You'll have to remove
the headlights, the bumper, and the fender liners.  The reason for the
fender liners is that there a number of bolts (maybe 4 per side) that bolt
through from inside the fenders that are a pita to get to.  You'll need a
long extension for most and possibly a swivel socket for the top-most one.
It took me about an hour to put mine back on during my Bronco swap
project during the summer.

If you've got any other questions just ask.  I've been through most all of
the parts on my '78 vintage bronco at one point in time in the past 9
months.

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project back in progress)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=788
'79 F-350 "Fred" (Project in holding pattern)
'95 Mustang GT "Beauty"


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 08:42:12 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Model TT Truck Help Needed


At 05:18 PM 12/26/00, you wrote:

>Could anyone help me find a set of running boards for a '25 Model T
>truck (they're shorter than the passenger car).  Please reply to me
>offlist.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>--
>Tim Bowman
>Burien, WA
>tkbowman qwest.net

Tim,

Check out the links section of the web site.  We've got a link
there to the Model T Club of America.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: "LaGrone, John" <John.LaGrone killeenisd.org>
Subject: fusible link
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 08:12:50 -0600

I hope to get my Grant steering wheel mounted on Henry before I have to go
back to work. He is still sitting in the driveway with no brakes. The
proportioning valve is supposed to be in on Friday.

I managed to get the Towncar in to the shop on Tuesday morning. There was no
damage to the front end components and everything aligned. The car drives
great but looks like # %% with a silver hood and fender.

I did learn all about fusible links in this episode. I learned how to
identify them and how to fix them. On the wiring harness, there is a big
block of plastic that says "fusible link", states the rating in amps, and
states the gauge of wire that it protects. The link itself looks like a
little piece of silver wire, about 16 or 18 gauge. If the link bends like
wire does, it is likely OK. An ohm meter will tell for sure. If the
insulation feels empty and real limber, the link is likely blown. It
vaporizes just like a fuse does. To repair the link, you find an identical
wiring harness in the wrecking yard, snip off the link with dikes, then
splice it onto the harness needing repair. Do the snipping and splicing in
the copper part of the circuit, not in the link part. I used what I call a
butt weave splice. One wire needing repair was 10 gauge, the other was 12. I
stripped back the insulation about 3/8 inch on each wire then slightly
spread the twists so that the wires could be shoved inside on another. Then
I used a soldering gun and rosin core solder to thoroughly solder the
joints. This creates a smooth, strong joint. I suggest heat shrink for
insulation, overlayed with electrical tape, then nestled inside a split
plastic covering like you typically find in the engine compartment.

--John LaGrone
john.lagrone killeenisd.org
jlagrone ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 15:49:49 GMT
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification


>I have a '77 F-350 Camper Special whose headlight switch has gone south in
>that the resistor spring that dims the instrument panel got all corroded and

>broke.
>
>My friend has a '75 Elite (a lot like the LTD and Torino of the time)

Heh, those were odd cars, we've got a 74 Gran Torino Elite (last year for the
full name) that we use for parts ...

Anyway this may be too crazy to actually work, but can't you just "pop" the
dimmer portion out and swap them ?  I'm pretty sure I did something similar
with my 69 Cougar (try finding those switches!) to get the dash lights to work
properly ...



Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 11:02:43 -0500
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Built Ford Tough


>In any case the grille shell isn't that hard to do.  You'll have to remove
>the headlights, the bumper, and the fender liners.  The reason for the
>fender liners is that there a number of bolts (maybe 4 per side) that bolt
>through from inside the fenders that are a pita to get to.  You'll need a
>long extension for most and possibly a swivel socket for the top-most one.
> It took me about an hour to put mine back on during my Bronco swap
>project during the summer.

Absolutely. It's just a whole lot of bolts and metal clips holding
everything together. The LONG extension (like about 12") really makes it
easier to get at the bolts on the inside of the fenders. It can be a pain
getting the plastic pieces out of the wheel wells if you still have them.
You can wrestle your arm up there if you can't get them out but it's much
easier to do without them there.


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 09:47:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification
From: Josh Keady <keady wizzards.net>



> Heh, those were odd cars, we've got a 74 Gran Torino Elite (last year for the
> full name) that we use for parts ...

They are odd... I don't much care for the body styling in the front, but the
interior is pretty snazzy.

>
> Anyway this may be too crazy to actually work, but can't you just "pop" the
> dimmer portion out and swap them ?  I'm pretty sure I did something similar
> with my 69 Cougar (try finding those switches!) to get the dash lights to work
> properly ...

This will work... maybe... in theory... it's nothing I really want to try,
however, as there is at least one small, thin, nylon washer in each that
would have to be removed in a manner too delicate for my fingers.  I'm
really good at breaking some things, especially delicate nylon <_insert
items here_> :-)

Thanks for the suggestions,

Josh


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Headlight switch identification
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 17:26:57 -0500





>
>
> > Heh, those were odd cars, we've got a 74 Gran Torino Elite (last year
for the
> > full name) that we use for parts ...
>
> They are odd... I don't much care for the body styling in the front, but
the
> interior is pretty snazzy.
======================================================
i had one of those torinos and they sure would hold a curve well tho even if
they were odd looking to some folks that heavy front end would hold right
onto the road
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Built Ford Tough
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 18:07:56 -0600


Has anyone else on here noticed this on their '67's? On my '67, the very top
one bolts in and out from the front instead of the back like the other ones,
my '70 bolts from the back, thought that was weird, having it in the front
helped a lot.

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of David Wadson
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 10:03 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Built Ford Tough


>In any case the grille shell isn't that hard to do.  You'll have to remove
>the headlights, the bumper, and the fender liners.  The reason for the
>fender liners is that there a number of bolts (maybe 4 per side) that bolt
>through from inside the fenders that are a pita to get to.  You'll need a
>long extension for most and possibly a swivel socket for the top-most one.
> It took me about an hour to put mine back on during my Bronco swap
>project during the summer.

Absolutely. It's just a whole lot of bolts and metal clips holding
everything together. The LONG extension (like about 12") really makes it
easier to get at the bolts on the inside of the fenders. It can be a pain
getting the plastic pieces out of the wheel wells if you still have them.
You can wrestle your arm up there if you can't get them out but it's much
easier to do without them there.


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada





------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #380 ....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.