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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 20 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 373

In This Issue:
Re: 78 dually
Winch Info site
Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???
Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???
Re: Vehicle Value
Re: Fun in the snow.
First year for factory DRW w/bed, was: '78 Dually
Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???
Re: Motorcraft 4350 parts
Re: Front Dana-60 info needed
Re: need a 460 manifold
300 4bbl install done!
New purchases
Is it lifted?
Re: Is it lifted?
Re: Is it lifted?
Engine Tranny install question
Re: 300 4bbl install done!
Re: Is it lifted?
Re: New purchases
Re: 300 4bbl install done!
Rough Accelerating
Re: Rough Accelerating
Re: not quite so warm....
Re: Is it lifted?
Re: Engine Tranny install question
Re: Intake Manifold
Re: Headers & Gas Mileage
Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???
Re: Is it lifted?
Re: headers and burned valves
Re: Engine Tranny install question
66 f-100
Re: Intake Manifold
Re: 66 f-100
Re: Intake Manifold
Re: 66 f-100
Re: 66 f-100

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 14:08:52 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: 78 dually


I would veture to say early 80's.  I don't think 1980, maybe 82-83.

> << OK..  What was the 1st year for the Dually(pickup type bed with fenders
>  over drw's)???
>   >>
> Im gonna take a lucky guess and say 1980.  Who needs a dually anyway with our
> trucks, my SRW F-350 has a 10k lb GVW.
>

My Supercab and my Crew cab have the same GVW, but Crew cab dually rolls of the tongue so
nice :>)

Actually, the dually is alot more stable at 70 with my 24 box trailer than my supercab.
Mind you that the supercab has 18.50 worth of rubber at the back too.  The supercab weighs
about 2000 lbs more than the dually also.

Just my observances.

Steve S.
54 F-100 (1 of my toys)
76 F-350 Crew cab (dually)
77 F-250 Supercab (4x4 sitting on 39x18.50)
79 Bronco (wife's toy)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/






------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Winch Info site
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:06:51 -0900



Some were asking for information on winch types, brands and specs. I put
this page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.gci.net/~bronco78/winch/winches.htm together a few
days ago, and thought some my find it helpful.
For those new to winches, it provides a comparison table to help you choose
what is right for you. For those more familiar with the subject, it has a
host of links direct to the manufactures sites, which contain all the data
you could want on the different winches. From overall weight, to dimensional
data for building that new bumper of yours.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal



------------------------------

From: "Dave Resch" <Dave.Resch sybase.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 12:10:39 -0700
Subject: Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???


>From: Stefan Rearden <stefan gci.net>
>
>I own a 78 F-150 with a built 460 mated to a
>c-6 auto.  The original motor, was a 351, C
>or W I'm not sure.  I do know that the truck was
>built in San Jose.  I live in a city (Anchorage,
>AK) with emissions requirements and need
>to install an IM legal motor.

Yo Stefan:

As for your original engine, if it was a 351, it was the 351M.

If your 460 was equipped properly, it should be IM legal.  The 460 was available
in 1978 4x2 F150s, as they were considered heavy-duty vehicles in 1978.  Even
though Ford didn't offer the 460 in 4x4 trucks then, the 4x4 trucks meet the
same GVW-based HD exemption rules as 4x2 trucks.  In 1978, I think the only
emissions equipment required on HD trucks was the EGR, and maybe Thermactor AIR.

In 1979, the EPA increased the HD GVW cut-off, and the F150 lost its HD vehicle
exemption.

If the IM authorities have rejected your truck, what was their exact rationale?

Dave R (M-block devotee)



------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" <bronco78 alaska.com>
Subject: Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:13:35 -0900



-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Resch <Dave.Resch sybase.com>
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???


>
>If the IM authorities have rejected your truck, what was their exact
rationale?
>
>Dave R (M-block devotee)
>

Dave, Dave, Dave..

You of all people, living in CO, should know... The local government needs
no rational reasons to deny a citizen. There is simply no law on the books
that STATE it can be done... Yes yes, I know there is that pesky
constitution deal,,, but that is just a suggestion, a guide line if you
will.

OK, sorry for the OT stuff, and yes my tongue is firmly planted in my
cheek....... but it does ring true to some extent.......think about it......

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 14:20:06 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Vehicle Value


>
>
> > Ya'll keep up with how much you've got in your trucks? Heck I gave up on
> > doing that years ago! In all seriousness....you just gotta love'em enought
> > to not care....if you don't, ya better get ready to make a payment, cause
> > one way or another you're gonna put money into them. You can make a payment
> > on a newer truck or make the payment in parts (and blood, sweat and tears),
> > but if you choose to make it in parts you'll learn more and have a bigger
> > sense of pride when you drive it down the road.
> > Whit
> >
>
> im gonna add to this just a bit.  My truck is an F-350.  Picked it up for 900
> dollars, and it is the fully loaded Ranger XLT.  So far Ive got 7000 in it,
> and that doesnt count gas or oil, or things like that.  I estimate another
> 5000 to get back to 100%.   Now if I was to get a new truck to compare, It
> would have to be a Powerstroke F-350 super duty to get the same GVW and
> power.  I dont need all the options, but at least all the stuff my 74 has.
> If I was to purchase the said truck, It would cost me just a hair under $30k
> Now add interest, full coverage insurance, and that fat that not even I would
> take a new truck out and test its flight capability, well Ive spent a lot
> more for a lot less.  Sure I'm gonna rake my knuckles a lil more than I would
> if I was just writin checks, and theres gonna be a lil more maint., but I'll
> stick with my old Ford, Its just more fun,

AMEN!

I would much rather spend 500-600 a year on my truck (that is maintanance, insurance, and
registration) that 600 a month just to pay for the truck, let alone insurance.  About 3
years ago I went to try to find a replacement for my Supercab.  I wanted options about the
same, towing and GVW about the same etc.  I looked at a 1997 F-350 4x4 Supercab.  It had
A/C, carpet, cruise, 460, Auto.  The GVW was close along with towing capacity.  With the
down payment and everything it would have cost me $450 per month for just the payment.
Add another $100 a month for insurance.  I walked away from it becuase at that point it
was not a truck.  I would be afraid to put a scratch in the bed, let alone use it as a
truck.  That weekend I hualed almost 4000 lbs of stone in the bed of my truck for the
house.  I didn't feel bad about "adding character" to my truck (scratch the bed), it was
paid for.  Since then I have added 3 more trucks to my stable for less than the price of 1
year worth of payments on the new 1.  I figure sometime around 2020 I will be able to
afford outright a now new truck.

Steve S.
54 F-100 (paid $2000)
76 F-350 Crew cab (paid $400)
77 F-250 Supercab (lots of character)
79 Bronco (paid $1000 w/plow that was sold for $700)
and an insurance bill that is less than $700 a year
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/






------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 14:25:09 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Fun in the snow.




>
>
> Get a plow and then you can have fun in the snow :-)  We get stuck too :-)
> and nearly get creamed by county trucks when we lose our
> perspective.......:-(
>
> Actually I've been having lots of fun plowing but it's a learning thing too.
> I have a saying: "IF....you live, you learn" which is a slight corruption of
> the typical saying.  I've had two close calls so far and hope that I have
> now become carefull enough to avoid any more.  I thought I was off the road
> but my blade was right on the edge of the burm at exactly the outer limit of
> the county truck's blade.  He hooked something in the pavement just as he
> passed me at about 45 mph and it made a horrific crash.....I nearly had to
> change my drawers!  Thought he'd hooked my plow but on inspection there was
> no damage except to my ego.  That was INCREDIBLY close!!!  You couldn't have
> got your hand between our blades!  That was my first plow attempt and only
> into it about 15 minutes when that happened but I lived.....AND LEARNED!
> WOW!
>
> I also have some other Plowing tips:
>
> 1..Use narrow, tall tires (I'm using 16.5x7.5 traditional mud and snows and
> they are pretty awesome considering there are no lockers)
> 2..Put a rear work light on the truck
> 3..Raise your mirrors as high as you can and still see the road and
> obsiticles etc.. (so you can plow close to mail boxes to clear them for the
> mail man)
> 4..Get lockers as soon as you can afford them ( you don't go anywhere with
> the right front in a ditch and the left rear up in the air due to the twist
> in the frame.....)
> 5..Plow with a passenger as a navigator to watch for traffic if you can
> 6..Get your truck licensed, it's illegal to move down the road even 2 feet
> otherwise but it is legal to cross the road......Jury's are easily led into
> and emotional tizzy by money hungry lawyers (I've been talking to our local
> State Police "Motor Carrier" officer (really nice guy and helpfull :-))
> 7..Yellow flashing lights for the roof is a good idea but there are laws
> about how to use them.  They should only be on when you are actually plowing
> near the road but off when traveling etc..
> 8..Side lights, in the rear especially, are a good idea so people can see
> your rear end from the side if you happen to get out too far in traffic.
> 9..Use a truck that does not have accordion frame sections in the front
> where the plow hooks to or USE CAUTION WHEN APPROACHING A SNOW BANK!  You
> think the Spanish/American Hip Hoppers can get their cars to hop a long way
> off the ground?  Hit a solid snow bank too fast and the back end will
> compete with them..:-)
>
> This list was developed from vast experience over a period of........1 week
> :-)  I'm a fast learner so now consider myself an expert on the art of
> plowing :-)  Ok, so I'm not an expert but it's amazing how much you can
> learn in a short time when you actually are doing it :-)  Question:  "How
> long does it take to make every mistake in the book and thus become an
> expert?"  Answer:  "Depends on your sugar level and if you survive" :-)
> Happily Semi-Retired,
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

Plowed my driveway once with the "new" Bronco.  The plow was sold the next day.  I will
stick with my tractor:>)


Steve S.
54 F-100
76 F-350 Crew cab
77 F-250 Supercab
79 Bronco
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/







------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 13:58:22 -0600
From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: First year for factory DRW w/bed, was: '78 Dually


>>Steve S. writes:  >> I saw this truck also.  I can tell you that this is
>>not factory.  Ford never offered the DRW option with a bed.  <<
>>
>>OK..  What was the 1st year for the Dually(pickup type bed with fenders
>>over drw's)???
>>
>Just a WAG on my part, but I'd say '80 (body change)...
>
>
That would be correct.  It was 1980.
  _
_| ~~.  John Strauss
\, *_}  jstrauss inetport.com
  \(    Texas Fight!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 15:43:27 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???




Dave Resch wrote:

>  In 1978, I think the only
> emissions equipment required on HD trucks was the EGR, and maybe Thermactor AIR.

Nope, neither. The 460 I pulled out of a 78, E350 had neither. I was
surprised it did not have EGR.

                                OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 15:43:27 EST
Subject: Re: Motorcraft 4350 parts


> From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
>  Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 00:12:45 -0600
>
>  Have you tried your local parts store?

Yep.  FWIW, Ford lists it as discontinued in 1991.
I found what I needed at <http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cybervillage.com/ponycarburetor/>
I ordered 2 at $4 each.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 15:47:27 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Front Dana-60 info needed


Tony Marino wrote:
>
> Hey guys-
>
> On a dana-60 front axle for 78--  is it a 35 spline or a 30 spline shaft?
>

35 spline inner and 30 spline outer.


> Also, can anybody give me the width of the spring perches from center hole
> to center hole? I need it at work and I don't have the right truck here to
> measure!

Funny, I have one in the back of my F250 (never took it out yet from
picking it up 2 weeks ago), but I don't have a ruler here at work :-(.


                                 OX



--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 15:56:13 EST
Subject: Re: need a 460 manifold


In a message dated 12/20/00 10:42:46 AM Pacific Standard Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:

> The bolt pattern is proprietary to Ford, the Rochester (best carb ever
>  built) won't fit nor will the thermoquad or holley 4165/75 series.  These
>  engines also came with decent square bore intakes so you may want to just
>  find one of those in the junk yard.  I've been told they flow pretty well
>  for a stock manifold.

Actually the bolt pattern is standard square-flange spacing. Any old Holley
or Edelbrock will fit, but the throttle bores are a bad match.  PAW has an
adapter for about $50, part # TDP-2199.

The only drawback I've found to the Motorcraft 4350 carb is that you'll have
to be your own expert because they seem to be pretty invisible to the rest of
the world.  Fortunately, most of the parts are also used in the Motorcraft
4300 so that's not too much of an issue.

If anybody wants a stock spreadbore manifold off a 460, let me know.  I've
got one boxed up in the garage that a marine mechanic gave me cause he's a
Chevy kinda guy.  It's yours for shipping.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4
'88 Bronco

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 16:56:36 -0500
From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: 300 4bbl install done!

My '78 now has an Edelbrock 500 4bbl and headers.  Many thanks
to everyone who answered questions for me, especially Tony
Marino.  He's the one who gave me the idea in the first place...

Lots of text, pics, and sounds available at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cns.ohiou.edu/~somalley/ford/

This mod was well worth the effort.

I still need to fine tune the carb, but already the truck is
100% more responsive and probably 50% (seat of the pants) more
powerful than before.  And this on a 5 deg farenheit day with no
intake pre-heat attachment!

--sean

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: New purchases
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 16:16:42 -0600

OK Fellow FTE members!!  I need some of your great expance of knowledge
to be directed my way as well as your respected opinions...

Last Month I was hi bidder on Ebay for what was advertised as an F350 1 ton
4X4 rolling chassis('76).  It was located in Farmington Hills(Detroit), Mi.  I drove
up from my warm home in North Alabama to retreive it and found it to be an F250
rather than a F350.  I completed the purchase anyway and brought it home.
With it, I got 6 brand new tires mounted on 6 brand new wheels(dual wheel types),
and 4 more tires and single wheels.  I paid $155 for the chassis and it cost me
approx $240 to make the trip.  It has NP205(divorced), NP 435, and FE(I assume
a 360) HD44 front and D60 rear(I thought it was a D70 at first). Engine is locked up,
but remainder of driveline seems to be good.  Chassis is suspect as it has bunches
of "Yankee Cancer".  (It was a snow plow truck).

Last week, I purchased another truck.  A '77 F350 Supercab(has the rear jump seat)
2wd.  It has a locked up 460 and C6 in it and I assume it has been wrecked at some
point in its past as it has a '78 grill and radiator support and hood on it.  To help
clarify my assumption, it had factory A/C, but has no condenser coil in front of the
radiator, so I assume they left it off when replacing front end parts(probably damaged
beyond repair).   I need help to decipher the VIN and data plate codes.  I paid $600
for this one..

VIN is X35JKX80031

Dataplate:
WB     Color     Type/GVW     Body      Trans     Axle     GVRW     DSO
155     MP         X359             CUM       C           07J     9250         14

The engines are not a problem for me.  I've rebuilt more ot them than I care to remember.

Do you Guys/Gals think I got my money's worth on both??  I'd like your opinions..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.
In Digest mode


------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Is it lifted?
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 22:46:55


Hey 'guys'...

I'm looking at getting a '77 F150 4x4, as I was checking it out I noticed
that it is setting a lot higher than my '73 F100 2wd.  The front suspension
appears normal, but the rear has about 4-6 inch tall blocks between the axle
and springs.  The block appears to be solid and has a bracket for the rubber
stops to hit against.  Is this stock suspension, or does it have a mild
lift?

I'm new to the 4x4 scene, so I appreciate the help.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 18:01:13 EST
Subject: Re: Is it lifted?

Sounds lifted to me, I dont think any half ton 4x4s ever got lift blocks from
the factory, at least not any 77's.  What are the rest of the details on the
truck?  we love to here this kinda stuff.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 15:08:11 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Is it lifted?


>Sounds lifted to me, I dont think any half ton 4x4s ever got lift blocks from
>the factory, at least not any 77's.  What are the rest of the details on the
>truck?  we love to here this kinda stuff.
>
>Darrell & Tweety

Raising little hand here.  Funny you should mention 77.  A 77 F-150
4x4 I had used factory lift blocks in the rear.  They were about 2
1/2", had ubolt loops and bumpstop tabs on them.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 18:50:21 EST
Subject: Engine Tranny install question

Hey everyone,

  Quick question, Im about to install a 78 400/c6 combo into a 73 F-250.
Has anyone ever dropped the engine and tranny in through the engine
compartment assembled?  I HATE putting C-6's in trucks, and If I can get away
with putting it all in through the engine bay, Im gonna do it.  Looks like it
will go, but its hard to eyeball that 1/2 inch that makes something
impossible, so I figured Id toss it your way.  Im hopin to have this swapped
soon, need to sell this thing.

Quick question # 2

Im gettin real close to bein done, figured Id ask about what the truck is
worth.  its a 73 F-250 Camper Special Ranger XLT.  Body is 90% straight,
Absolutely no rust.  Original Las Vegas truck.  Has 75k original miles, Drove
real nice when I bought it.  Only reason its getting the 400 Is the original
motor was a 390, needed a Valve job.  I decided to pull the 390 and rebuild
it as a 406 as it had the FT block in it.  Right after I got the motor
pulled, I got my F-350 and promptly gave up on the lesser of the t trucks. It
has all the camper wiring, sway bars, and the dual battery setup.  The 400
thats going in only has 50k miles on it.  It does need tires, but they arent
so bad you couldnt drive it a few months.  I may even have the A/C up and
working when I sell, just need to dig up the correct pulleys and bracket for
the 400.  I will have pics of it available soon.

thanks

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 18:58:31 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl install done!


If your truck even runs in this kind of cold we're having with that
non-tuned 500 on it, you're already leaps and bounds better off than I was
when I did it!  HA!  Great documentation also-- and a side note on that
clearence on the alternator bracket- I removed mine, and it fit, then I
bolted it back up.  Maybe different design headers than the ones I ran for
a short time?   I think mine were blackjacks.

Happy motoring- when you get the bugs worked out of it you'll have to come
north to Akron to take me for a ride!

;-)

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ceoweb.mts.kent.edu/~mustang/trucks.html

At 16:56 12/20/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>My '78 now has an Edelbrock 500 4bbl and headers.  Many thanks
>to everyone who answered questions for me, especially Tony
>Marino.  He's the one who gave me the idea in the first place...
>
>Lots of text, pics, and sounds available at:
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cns.ohiou.edu/~somalley/ford/
>
>This mod was well worth the effort.
>
>I still need to fine tune the carb, but already the truck is
>100% more responsive and probably 50% (seat of the pants) more
>powerful than before.  And this on a 5 deg farenheit day with no
>intake pre-heat attachment!
>
>--sean


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Is it lifted?
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 19:41:37 -0500


Sounds lifted to me, I dont think any half ton 4x4s ever got lift blocks
from
the factory, at least not any 77's.  What are the rest of the details on the
truck?  we love to here this kinda stuff.

Darrell & Tweety


As an owner of a '77 F150 4X4 I can tell you that mine came with factory
lift blocks installed. I only run with a 3" body lift to help clear the
33's.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 19:40:23 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: New purchases




"Azie L. Magnusson" wrote:
>
> OK Fellow FTE members!!  I need some of your great expance of knowledge
> to be directed my way as well as your respected opinions...

I'd say you got a killer deal on the first one and a real good deal on
the second one. I always look at it this way. If you part it out, what
are the parts worth. If you paid that or less, it wasn't bad deal :-).
So what are your plans, make one outa 2??

                              OX

------------------------------

From: BRussAZ aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 21:12:44 EST
Subject: Re: 300 4bbl install done!


In a message dated 12/20/00 1:57:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu writes:

<< http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cns.ohiou.edu/~somalley/ford/ >>
Sean,
Well done!  You have given me incentive to document my 240 engine rebuild (65
F100).
thanx,

Bill



------------------------------

From: "Linda Zahn" <us5zahns earthlink.net>
Subject: Rough Accelerating
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 18:38:05 -0800


Hello All Ford Truck Lovers,
 I have an 70 F350 dully that I just put a rebuilt 460 motor in.  It
started running rough right after I picked it up from the rebuilder so I had
it checked out at another shop where they changed the manifold to an
Edlebrock and put on a 650 Holly carb.  Still it ran rough and I was told it
was a dead piston.  I took it back to the rebuilder and they found a broken
valve spring.  Still it ran rough when accelerating  The idle is good and
when it is moving it runs great but when I accelerate it can be like a
bucking bronco.  Since everything on it is new I am wondering it any of you
have any advice.  The other day I drove it and it ran just fine for about 5
miles.  I stopped for gas and then the bad acceleration started again.  I
was thinking that it has something to do with getting hot.  HELP..
Thanks,
FredZ


------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Rough Accelerating
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 22:13:15 -0500



Hello All Ford Truck Lovers,
 I have an 70 F350 dully that I just put a rebuilt 460 motor in.  It
started running rough right after I picked it up from the rebuilder so I had
it checked out at another shop where they changed the manifold to an
Edlebrock and put on a 650 Holly carb.  Still it ran rough and I was told it
was a dead piston.  I took it back to the rebuilder and they found a broken
valve spring.  Still it ran rough when accelerating  The idle is good and
when it is moving it runs great but when I accelerate it can be like a
bucking bronco.  Since everything on it is new I am wondering it any of you
have any advice.  The other day I drove it and it ran just fine for about 5
miles.  I stopped for gas and then the bad acceleration started again.  I
was thinking that it has something to do with getting hot.  HELP..
Thanks,
FredZ

I've found that starting with the simplest solutions first gives you a good
base to start trouble shooting. Is the fuel filter clean, do the plugs look
good, wires, cap and rotor? Since you just got it back from the rebuilder
consider what's new and what you reused and check out the re-used
components. Each simple item you eliminate will help you find the more
complicated problems (if any). This comes from far to many "why didn't I try
that first" statements. Hope this helps.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 23:18:55 EST
Subject: Re: not quite so warm....

I hear ya Gary.

It actually got to 25 Deg (official was 28) out where Im at. But when it's
normally above 50, it's easy to overlook all the little quirks of living down
here (like not knowing WHEN things freeze, scraping windows before driving
when they do, Counting ballots (and other stuff))!

Now for some FTE content - I liked your note about the Holley Elec Choke
setup. Ive got a spare ballast resister from an Accell Super Coil  that I
could use. Ive got a 600 on my 400 and it took forever to get off and stay
off the choke this morning (15 of teh 32 miles to work). But then, Im
probibly a little undervoltage as Ive always driven them (3 prior Holley's)
with the stock choke assist wire comming from the alternator. It's an AC
voltage that's proportional to engine speed. it works well that way in these
normally warm climates!

George M in Fl (where's my nose mitten???)

In a message dated 12/20/00 8:45:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 lni.net writes:


>
> Yeah, I noticed on the weather channel you have to get down to 20 degrees
> before they issue a "Freeze" warning :-)  Up here we realize things will
> freeze at 32 but we don't have smudge pots :-)  I understand that at or
> below 20 degrees smudge pots won't protect the FL main crop :-(  I remember
> one year they were concerned about 29 degrees........
>
> Happily Semi-Retired,
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>
> > George M in (not quite so warm right now) Fl.
>





------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Is it lifted?
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 21:10:33 -0800




> Sounds lifted to me, I dont think any half ton 4x4s ever got lift blocks
from
> the factory, at least not any 77's.  What are the rest of the details on
the
> truck?  we love to here this kinda stuff.

My 77 has lift blocks that incorporate a piece that contacts the bumpstop on
the frame.
It is factory original.  They aren't 4-6 inches, more like 2".
Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"



------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Tranny install question
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 00:09:16 -0500


seems like it ought to fit. might have to remove the tranny crossmember in
order to get it in at an angle first then tilt it up  level.
-----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com <JUMPINFORD aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 7:01 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Engine Tranny install question


>Hey everyone,
>
>   Quick question, Im about to install a 78 400/c6 combo into a 73 F-250.
>Has anyone ever dropped the engine and tranny in through the engine
>compartment assembled?  I HATE putting C-6's in trucks, and If I can get
away
>with putting it all in through the engine bay, Im gonna do it.  Looks like
it
>will go, but its hard to eyeball that 1/2 inch that makes something
>impossible, so I figured Id toss it your way.  Im hopin to have this
swapped
>soon, need to sell this thing.
>
>Quick question # 2
>
>Im gettin real close to bein done, figured Id ask about what the truck is
>worth.  its a 73 F-250 Camper Special Ranger XLT.  Body is 90% straight,
>Absolutely no rust.  Original Las Vegas truck.  Has 75k original miles,
Drove
>real nice when I bought it.  Only reason its getting the 400 Is the
original
>motor was a 390, needed a Valve job.  I decided to pull the 390 and rebuild
>it as a 406 as it had the FT block in it.  Right after I got the motor
>pulled, I got my F-350 and promptly gave up on the lesser of the t trucks.
It
>has all the camper wiring, sway bars, and the dual battery setup.  The 400
>thats going in only has 50k miles on it.  It does need tires, but they
arent
>so bad you couldnt drive it a few months.  I may even have the A/C up and
>working when I sell, just need to dig up the correct pulleys and bracket
for
>the 400.  I will have pics of it available soon.
>
>thanks
>
>Darrell & Tweety
>
>
>


------------------------------

From: "David and Kathy Weier" <kdweier gci.net>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 21:12:51 -0900

Keith, Tom H. & Wish,

   Thanks for the help, but I carefully removed, cleaned and reinstalled the infected part. It is about 3" long, almost like a piece hex-stock, looks like 5/8" (guess) pipe threads on it, and does the old 90* out the top. I looked at Schucks Auto, all they had was straight ones maybe an inch long. (bummer) Thanks for the help!!!

David L. Weier II
76 F-150 4X4
86 Bronco II 4X4
72 Mustang Coupe


------------------------------

From: "David and Kathy Weier" <kdweier gci.net>
Subject: Re: Headers & Gas Mileage
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 21:20:58 -0900

Schu,

  May want to check that hedman part #, I was told that hedman would only CARB certify it up to a 1974?!?! (like what is the difference?) As I have found up here in Alaska, there are no headers on the market for 1976 360-390 (or 75 for that matter) not even a shorty header.

David


------------------------------

From: "David and Kathy Weier" <kdweier gci.net>
Subject: Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 21:36:38 -0900

Stefan,

    Watch what you put into your truck!!! Break down the VIN code to find out what is supposed to be in there. As Darrell & Tweety said, Alaska is HARSH...worse than California ever thought of being!!! (and they adopted CA rules!!!) I had mine inspected by the state referee here in Anchorage. I had a complete 390 (visual) with the exception of headers. My VIN code says 360 (disqualification) I told them to look at the block ID to which they told me that Ford used the same for 360 & 390 and unless I could PROVE it was a 390, it was a 360 in their books. Non CARB headers also DQ'd me. They are supposed to complete the entire test, and here is the kicker...I passed the tail pipe emission test!!! (with flying colors!) Now this is what really chaps my A**...I asked the referee why does a person fail if the pass the air standard test? He said it's to get gas guzzling, non-efficient vehicles like mine off the road!!! POLITICS guys...politics!!! Blue Oval Fans Unite!!!

David


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 03:17:22 EST
Subject: Re: Is it lifted?

In a message dated 12/20/2000 8:56:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
derrar internetcds.com writes:


> > Sounds lifted to me, I dont think any half ton 4x4s ever got lift blocks
> from
> > the factory, at least not any 77's.  What are the rest of the details on
> the
> > truck?  we love to here this kinda stuff.
>
> My 77 has lift blocks that incorporate a piece that contacts the bumpstop on
> the frame.
> It is factory original.  They aren't 4-6 inches, more like 2".
> Jason
>

Common concensus is Im off my rocker on this one.  I guess I can admit I was
Wrrrr,
wrrrrrrr, wrooooo.    No I guess I cant.  :)

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: "craig sharp" <csharp29 home.com>
Subject: Re: headers and burned valves
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 08:13:51 -0500


Well, I think you can just go with two step colder plugs to the muffler shop
unless you want to buy a complete set of jets for the carburetor and keep
them around your neck on a string to show your tribal commitment to ford
masochism! Seriously, you will need a range of jets to get things right so
it really amounts to whether you want to rejet your carb or swap plugs. Once
you get the exhaust system complete, with the >proper< amount of
backpressure (i.e. pipe size/muffler) then you should put the original plugs
back in and fine tune your jets (Someone should be able to get you close
with some advice based upon your setup, including the header manuf.). Then,
when you want to 'open 'er up' you can step back one or two ranges of plugs.

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Sean O'Malley
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 10:14 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: headers and burned valves

> You need to check your plugs to see how they are burning. If they are
really

I'll do that, once I've got it running.  Still need to hook up the choke
cable and return springs.

> How long do you plan on doing this... from your shop to the muffler shop?
> Or, off road?

Just from my shop to the muffler shop.  And maybe up and down the ridge
road a couple of times--my wife can't wait to hear the noise (seriously!).

==sean


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Tranny install question
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 08:30:43 -0800


Transmission cross member does have to come out along with the radiator and
front cross member at the top of the grill.  You will need a sacrificial
yoke to keep the oil in when you tip it and don't forget the speedo hole in
the side or you will have a real mess when you get done.

It can be done with a chain and one extra person to guide it but those
adjustable hangers they sell in JCwhitney and others are really recommended
for this.   I've done many the hard way but now I actually prefer to put the
tranny in afterward but I have a lift and tranny jack.  When all I had was
the "Pit" I liked to keep them together.

Just be aware that the engine/tranny combo will virtually have to stand on
it's tail to go in which is where the adjustabel hanger comes in.  If I can
do this in a 75 van I'm reasonably sure you can do it in a 73 pickup.  I've
done it many times in my 78 which is basically the same size and engine
compartment space etc..(and, of course, I'm talking 460's here, not little
bitty 350's :-))

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> >   Quick question, Im about to install a 78 400/c6 combo into a 73 F-250.
> >Has anyone ever dropped the engine and tranny in through the engine
> >compartment assembled?


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 09:21:32 -0500
From: "Huston, Virgil H." <vhhuston switch.com>
Subject: 66 f-100


I sent this last night, but didn't see it come through. My apologies
if this turns out to be a duplicate. I am going to look at a 66 F-100 with
352 V8, three speed manual trans. Supposedly in good condition. Asking price
is $975. If the truck is as described, it sounds like a good deal. Anything
I should specifically look at with this year/model?

Thanks,
Virgil

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 15:40:30 GMT
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold


>    Thanks for the help, but I carefully removed, cleaned and reinstalled the
infected part. It is about 3" long, almost like a piece hex-stock, looks like
5/8" (guess) pipe threads on it, and does the old 90* out the top.

I realized shortly after I posted that you meant intake manifold side of things,
I've got one of those that's tall and the one on the truck is the short one
I believe ... Tony tells me there's 2 different sizes, but I think all 3 of
my intake manifolds take the same one ... dunno how good the tall one is, but
I can use it for sizing if you still need one ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 10:10:34 EST
Subject: Re: 66 f-100


Yes, look at the cab to frame mounts to see if they are rusted through. Some
people will stick wood under there to raise a rusty cab back up. Floor boards
can rust through as well where the floor meets the side. Pay attention to
these rust prone ares.

Rollie

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 10:43:15 EST
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold

In a message dated 12/21/2000 6:39:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
wish ford-trucks.net writes:


> I realized shortly after I posted that you meant intake manifold side of
> things,
> I've got one of those that's tall and the one on the truck is the short one
> I believe ... Tony tells me there's 2 different sizes, but I think all 3 of
> my intake manifolds take the same one ...

Most definately 2 sizes.  There are either two 1/2'' (I think)PT holes in the
manifold, in whichone is for the heater hose fitting, and the other is for
the temp sensor vaccum tree thingy that changes from port to manifold vaccum
at 200'.  The other style has just one 5/8 hole for the fitting, no
accomodation for the vaccum switch at all.  I have a few of each of these
manifolds at my shop, so if someone wants the exact measurements on the
holes, I can get em no problem.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 09:52:04 -0700
From: Keith Srb <herbie ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 66 f-100


At 10:10 AM 12/21/2000 -0500, you wrote:

>Yes, look at the cab to frame mounts to see if they are rusted through. Some
>people will stick wood under there to raise a rusty cab back up. Floor boards
>can rust through as well where the floor meets the side. Pay attention to
>these rust prone ares.
>
>Rollie

Also check the Radiator Support, between the support and the grill. It ....


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