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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 14:43:59 -0500 (EST)
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61-79-list Digest Tue, 19 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 372

In This Issue:
Re: need a 460 manifold
Headers and gas Mileage
78 F-150 Engine swap???
Re: Headers and gas Mileage
Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???
F-250 parts, yall get first dibs!
Re: when to give up
Re: ENVY'S BOO BOO! =*(
Re: Headers and gas Mileage
'78 Dually
Re: '78 Dually
Re: '78 Dually
Re: EBrakes
Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???
Vehicle Value
Re: Motorcraft 4350 parts
Re: Vehicle Value
Re: Vehicle Value
Re: not quite so warm....
Re: EBrakes, fun in the snow...
Oops.
Re: When to give up on a project???
Re: choke
Re: Oops.
Re: Oops.
Re: EBrakes, fun in the snow...
Front Dana-60 info needed
Re: Headers and gas Mileage

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: need a 460 manifold
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 13:06:35 -0800


This is a Ford OEM spreadbore manifold and the carbs that fit it are
excellent for the most part.  Both economy and performance but you have to
rebuild them and set them up.  Don't use the Ford version if you plan to do
a lot of work on the engine, they are very good for stock applications but
when you install headers they can't be tuned to make up for it.

The bolt pattern is proprietary to Ford, the Rochester (best carb ever
built) won't fit nor will the thermoquad or holley 4165/75 series.  These
engines also came with decent square bore intakes so you may want to just
find one of those in the junk yard.  I've been told they flow pretty well
for a stock manifold.

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

The
> manifold that is on the truck now is set up for Ford's answer to the
> quadrajunk, and the secondaries alignment look kinda suspicious.  I dumped
> the spreadbore in lieu of a 4160 Holley, but would like to change


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 09:45:27 -0900
From: Matthew Schumacher <schu schu.net>
Subject: Headers and gas Mileage


List,

I have a 76 F-150 with a 390.   Right my truck is only getting 7 mpg, so
I am looking into ways to increase the gas mileage.  It has the stock
np203 in it right now, so I am already making plans to replace it with a
205 or put a part time kit in it.  I assume that will make a fair amount
of difference, but what about the engine?  It has the stock compression
ratio, factory 4bbl intake manifold, Holly 600cfm with vacuum
secondaries, a Crane RV cam, and the stock exhaust manifolds.  I wonder
if any of you might have some input on how much mileage is to be gained
from headers.  Is it worth all the headache?  What about low end
torque?  Does the truck get stronger or weaker on the low end?  I am not
worried about the top end at all, I already have plenty.

I should also note that I live in a emissions controlled area, which
means if I do get headers, I am forced to get Hedman #89180 which are
your basic junk 1 3/4" headers as they are the only ones I have found
that have a CARB number.

thanks

schu

------------------------------

From: Stefan Rearden <stefan gci.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 10:02:12 -0900
Subject: 78 F-150 Engine swap???


Hey all -
I own a 78 F-150 with a built 460 mated to a c-6 auto.  The original
motor, was a 351, C or W I'm not sure.  I do know that the truck was
built in San Jose.  I live in a city (Anchorage, AK) with emissions
requirements and need to install an IM legal motor.  I was wondering
which 351 will mate directly to the C-6 with as little modifications
needed as possible?  Do I need to change the motor mounts too?  Any
help and advice offered is greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Stefan Rearden


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 20:16:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Headers and gas Mileage


>I have a 76 F-150 with a 390.   Right my truck is only getting 7 mpg, so
>I am looking into ways to increase the gas mileage.


I can understand that, I've got a mild 76 390 in my 70's truck...


> It has the stock
>np203 in it right now, so I am already making plans to replace it with a
>205 or put a part time kit in it.  I assume that will make a fair amount
>of difference,

It made some for me, but not a lot ... mostly it helped with the power ... that
was with the tired old 360 though too...

but what about the engine?  It has the stock compression
>ratio, factory 4bbl intake manifold, Holly 600cfm with vacuum
>secondaries, a Crane RV cam, and the stock exhaust manifolds.

Mine is set up similarly, though not exactly ... did you swap the intake on
yourself ?  Its odd to find a 390 equipped 4x4 from the factory ...

>I wonder
>if any of you might have some input on how much mileage is to be gained
>from headers.

Dunno, probably none 'cause you won't be able to keep your foot out of it :)


What sort of gears/tires are you running ?  I've got 30" tires with 3.50 gears
and am getting a solid 10mpg and it needs a tune up badly ... with the old 2V
and 360 I was getting 12 all the time ... so 7 sounds a bit low to me ... if
you do mostly in town that could hurt it a bit, but mine was 12 no matter what
I did to it and seems to be 10 now no matter what, but I confess I don't check
it every time, just when I think of it.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 14:22:36 EST
Subject: Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???


Actually your truck most likely came with the 351M, which is also the only
351 that will fit your transmission.  Those Alakan rules are harsh arent
they?  I'd suggest installing a 400, and keeping that fact a secret.  No one
I know has the x-ray vision required to tell a 351m from a 400.  And even
though you have to stay stock, whos gonna be able to tell what cam you have
(provided it isnt so radical its lumpy at idle), what compression your
running, etc etc.  Talk to Dave the M block guy, he can give you advice on a
stock looking performer Im sure.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 14:29:07 EST
Subject: F-250 parts, yall get first dibs!


Hey everyone,

I have a chunk of a 78 F-250 for sale, but ya gotta take it all.  ITs the
forward half of the frame, that has the entire suspension sytem attached,
including the sway bar.  The king pins appear solid, Im not sure on the
condition of the rotors (wheels are on it too) but they didnt squeek and the
calipers worked fine The sway bar is the type that mounts to the frame and
uses links to the I beams, not the older type that just bolts between the
radius arms.  All the rubber is pretty much toast.  If anyone is interested,
Email me off list.  First 50 bucks and its yours.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 14:34:27 -0500
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Re: when to give up


Eric Finn, I can sympathize with you about your question of whether to give
up and find another project in better shape. I often have these thoughts,
and then something small will spark my interest again, and I'll get some
more work done, and now I'm at the point where I think about how much I
have done, and it would be tough to let go. But if your truck is a sad
sack, then it is likely you can always find something better cheaper. It's
not give up as much as it is being practical.

However, it sounds like the shop is giving you a hard time, so I suggest
you find another place. I forget where you said you live, but closer to
Philadelphia, you might find that some shops are, shall we say, less strict
about inspections. The shop I go to is a small shop run by two good guys
who are also into older cars and motorcycles. They are reasonable about
things and let my missing rear window slide (it had been broken by
neighbor's rock) because they know I'm always working on the truck.

There are inexpensive ways to keep an old truck going. You'll get
resourceful when looking for thrifty options. I think some rust coverter
and fiberglass will be your best options for fixing some of the rust
cancer. If you can get the truck inspected and passed, it will be a great
load off your mind.

-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: ENVY'S BOO BOO! =*(
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 14:34:24 -0500


>blonde! Anyways, I REALLY mashed the grille shell <chrome part> on the
>passenger side as well as the plastic grille insert behind my light. I
>checked and JC Whitless and the grille molding <mounts above and/or below
the
>grille> and the grille shell goes around the headlight openings> are
$159.00
>each. I hope I explained it clear. So, my ? is: does anyone happen to have
>one of these laying around that they'd be willing to sell to me for less
then
>JC Whitless??

There is a nice 1975 F-series at the salvage yard I frequent ... I need to
get a steering box for my Bronco there soon, if you want me to check on the
cost of those front end parts ... though I am in Pennsylvania, all the way
on the other side of the country from where you are.


------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Headers and gas Mileage
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 15:02:39 -0800


> It has the stock compression
> ratio, factory 4bbl intake manifold, Holly 600cfm with vacuum
> secondaries, a Crane RV cam, and the stock exhaust manifolds.  I wonder
> if any of you might have some input on how much mileage is to be gained
> from headers.  Is it worth all the headache?

I've driven both of my 69 F250's with 390 4V engines before and after
upgrading to full length Hooker headers & high flow exhaust. Upgrading
didn't improve my fuel mileage, it just increased the power. Probably
because the engine sounds so good when I stomp on the gas, I just like to
listen to it when accelerating. Less throttle is required to maintain
cruising speed, which should translate into better MPG, if you can restrain
yourself from stomping on the throttle all the time like I do. Both of my
trucks are 390 4V 10:1 CR equiped with Holley 600 CFM, vaccuum secondaries
and get about 9 MPG in the city during the winter (high idle warmup).
Highway travel under 70 MPH usually averages anywhere between 11 MPG and 13
MPG.

> What about low end
> torque?  Does the truck get stronger or weaker on the low end?  I am not
> worried about the top end at all, I already have plenty.

Seems like the powerband got wider in both dirrections. Low end and high end
power improved.

> I should also note that I live in a emissions controlled area, which
> means if I do get headers, I am forced to get Hedman #89180 which are
> your basic junk 1 3/4" headers as they are the only ones I have found
> that have a CARB number.

Both of my 69's must pass emissions each year with Hooker competition
headers #6903 & high flow exhaust. Perhaps the site at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Hooker.html might be helpful.


Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: '78 Dually
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 16:50:14 -0600

Steve S. writes:  >> I saw this truck also.  I can tell you that this is
not factory.  Ford never offered the DRW option with a bed.  <<

OK..  What was the 1st year for the Dually(pickup type bed with fenders
over drw's)???

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: '78 Dually
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 14:59:07 -0800


Just a WAG on my part, but I'd say '80 (body change)...

-----Original Message-----
From: Azie L. Magnusson [mailto:maggie11 HiWAAY.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 2:50 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] '78 Dually


Steve S. writes:  >> I saw this truck also.  I can tell you that this is
not factory.  Ford never offered the DRW option with a bed.  <<

OK..  What was the 1st year for the Dually(pickup type bed with fenders
over drw's)???

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 17:58:32 EST
Subject: Re: '78 Dually


In a message dated 12/19/00 2:54:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
maggie11 HiWAAY.net writes:

<< OK..  What was the 1st year for the Dually(pickup type bed with fenders
over drw's)???
 >>
Im gonna take a lucky guess and say 1980.  Who needs a dually anyway with our
trucks, my SRW F-350 has a 10k lb GVW.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 22:32:50 -0500
From: David Wadson <wadsond air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: EBrakes


>It's different when you use it all the time, you get in the habit of
>checking it but when you don't use it all the time you forget and if you are
>a trainee you have no habits so......:-)

That's the irritating part...I've gotten used to using it all the time ever
since I've made a point of having an e-brake that works on my last two
trucks. After spending the cash on new cables, I don't feel like letting
them seize up from lack of use! I guess Saturday I was too busy playing
with the 4WD to notice that I had left the e-brake on. I'm actually hoping
for some more snow - the whole city has pretty well been plowed so little
opportunity for fun now. I am getting more prepared for the next
dumping...Santa is bringing me a tow strap for Christmas and I'm getting
ready for it...went and bought a pair of tow hooks for the truck. Given
that my bumpers are held on with low-grade bolts, I figure I'd better not
be towing or be towed using my bumpers! :-)




David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 23:41:27 EST
Subject: Re: 78 F-150 Engine swap???

From what I know, the 351 you had was/should be a M block. The M blocks (351M
& 400) share teh same mounting as the 460 as to the tranny so that would
solve most of your problems (I understand there  are allot of folks that'll
take that 460 off your hands). Shouldnt need to change the mounts from what I
know, possible adjust the tranny mount some. I would imagine either the 400
or 351 would work for you emisions needs!

George M in (not quite so warm right now) Fl.


n a message dated 12/19/00 2:02:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, stefan gci.net
writes:


> Hey all -
> I own a 78 F-150 with a built 460 mated to a c-6 auto.  The original
> motor, was a 351, C or W I'm not sure.  I do know that the truck was
> built in San Jose.  I live in a city (Anchorage, AK) with emissions
> requirements and need to install an IM legal motor.  I was wondering
> which 351 will mate directly to the C-6 with as little modifications
> needed as possible?  Do I need to change the motor mounts too?  Any
> help and advice offered is greatly appreciated.
> Regards,
> Stefan Rearden
>





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2000 21:40:13 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael (Cut me and I'll bleed FORD Blue) Whittington" <broncoman85 excite.com>
Subject: Vehicle Value


Ya'll keep up with how much you've got in your trucks? Heck I gave up on
doing that years ago! In all seriousness....you just gotta love'em enought
to not care....if you don't, ya better get ready to make a payment, cause
one way or another you're gonna put money into them. You can make a payment
on a newer truck or make the payment in parts (and blood, sweat and tears),
but if you choose to make it in parts you'll learn more and have a bigger
sense of pride when you drive it down the road.
Whit

77 F250 4X4 20 inchs lift 800 horse 429 44 Boggers(torn back down for paint)
75 F100 460
78 Bronco 11 inchs lift stock 351M 44 Gumbos(traded it off, and God I miss
it)
69 F100 302
76 F250 Dual wheels 390 Tow Truck
85 Bronco 302





_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Motorcraft 4350 parts
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 00:12:45 -0600

Have you tried your local parts store?

Garrett www.1966ford.com



 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Brazzadog aol.com
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 12:57 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] Motorcraft 4350 parts



 I need a new nylon nut that goes on the end of the throttle link.  It
 connects the throttle link to the accelerator pump lever.  I've e-mailed
 Holley but don't expect them to be able to help.  Anybody know of a source
 for obscure parts for Motorcraft carbs?

 Ben Williams
 '71 Wagoneer
 '78 F-250 4x4
 '88 Bronco



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 01:15:32 EST
Subject: Re: Vehicle Value

In a message dated 12/19/2000 9:41:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
broncoman85 excite.com writes:


> Ya'll keep up with how much you've got in your trucks? Heck I gave up on
> doing that years ago! In all seriousness....you just gotta love'em enought
> to not care....if you don't, ya better get ready to make a payment, cause
> one way or another you're gonna put money into them. You can make a payment
> on a newer truck or make the payment in parts (and blood, sweat and tears),
> but if you choose to make it in parts you'll learn more and have a bigger
> sense of pride when you drive it down the road.
> Whit
>


im gonna add to this just a bit.  My truck is an F-350.  Picked it up for 900
dollars, and it is the fully loaded Ranger XLT.  So far Ive got 7000 in it,
and that doesnt count gas or oil, or things like that.  I estimate another
5000 to get back to 100%.   Now if I was to get a new truck to compare, It
would have to be a Powerstroke F-350 super duty to get the same GVW and
power.  I dont need all the options, but at least all the stuff my 74 has.
If I was to purchase the said truck, It would cost me just a hair under $30k
Now add interest, full coverage insurance, and that fat that not even I would
take a new truck out and test its flight capability, well Ive spent a lot
more for a lot less.  Sure I'm gonna rake my knuckles a lil more than I would
if I was just writin checks, and theres gonna be a lil more maint., but I'll
stick with my old Ford, Its just more fun,

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: Vehicle Value
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 06:52:35 -0500


I don't think anyone on this list could disagree!

-------------------
 Sure I'm gonna rake my knuckles a lil more than I would
if I was just writin checks, and theres gonna be a lil more maint., but I'll
stick with my old Ford, Its just more fun,

Darrell & Tweety





------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: not quite so warm....
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 08:45:07 -0800


Yeah, I noticed on the weather channel you have to get down to 20 degrees
before they issue a "Freeze" warning :-)  Up here we realize things will
freeze at 32 but we don't have smudge pots :-)  I understand that at or
below 20 degrees smudge pots won't protect the FL main crop :-(  I remember
one year they were concerned about 29 degrees........

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> George M in (not quite so warm right now) Fl.



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: EBrakes, fun in the snow...
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 09:17:40 -0800


Get a plow and then you can have fun in the snow :-)  We get stuck too :-)
and nearly get creamed by county trucks when we lose our
perspective.......:-(

Actually I've been having lots of fun plowing but it's a learning thing too.
I have a saying: "IF....you live, you learn" which is a slight corruption of
the typical saying.  I've had two close calls so far and hope that I have
now become carefull enough to avoid any more.  I thought I was off the road
but my blade was right on the edge of the burm at exactly the outer limit of
the county truck's blade.  He hooked something in the pavement just as he
passed me at about 45 mph and it made a horrific crash.....I nearly had to
change my drawers!  Thought he'd hooked my plow but on inspection there was
no damage except to my ego.  That was INCREDIBLY close!!!  You couldn't have
got your hand between our blades!  That was my first plow attempt and only
into it about 15 minutes when that happened but I lived.....AND LEARNED!
WOW!

I also have some other Plowing tips:

1..Use narrow, tall tires (I'm using 16.5x7.5 traditional mud and snows and
they are pretty awesome considering there are no lockers)
2..Put a rear work light on the truck
3..Raise your mirrors as high as you can and still see the road and
obsiticles etc.. (so you can plow close to mail boxes to clear them for the
mail man)
4..Get lockers as soon as you can afford them ( you don't go anywhere with
the right front in a ditch and the left rear up in the air due to the twist
in the frame.....)
5..Plow with a passenger as a navigator to watch for traffic if you can
6..Get your truck licensed, it's illegal to move down the road even 2 feet
otherwise but it is legal to cross the road......Jury's are easily led into
and emotional tizzy by money hungry lawyers (I've been talking to our local
State Police "Motor Carrier" officer (really nice guy and helpfull :-))
7..Yellow flashing lights for the roof is a good idea but there are laws
about how to use them.  They should only be on when you are actually plowing
near the road but off when traveling etc..
8..Side lights, in the rear especially, are a good idea so people can see
your rear end from the side if you happen to get out too far in traffic.
9..Use a truck that does not have accordion frame sections in the front
where the plow hooks to or USE CAUTION WHEN APPROACHING A SNOW BANK!  You
think the Spanish/American Hip Hoppers can get their cars to hop a long way
off the ground?  Hit a solid snow bank too fast and the back end will
compete with them..:-)

This list was developed from vast experience over a period of........1 week
:-)  I'm a fast learner so now consider myself an expert on the art of
plowing :-)  Ok, so I'm not an expert but it's amazing how much you can
learn in a short time when you actually are doing it :-)  Question:  "How
long does it take to make every mistake in the book and thus become an
expert?"  Answer:  "Depends on your sugar level and if you survive" :-)

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> with the 4WD to notice that I had left the e-brake on. I'm actually hoping
> for some more snow - the whole city has pretty well been plowed so little
> opportunity for fun now. I am getting more prepared for the next
> dumping...Santa is br


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 15:34:17 GMT
Subject: Oops.


Well, it finally happened, after 10 years of driving and 6 years of driving that
70s truck, I got it stuck to the point of needing a tow.  Should've known better
than to try and stop to help those poor GM fools out, but you know how it goes
... you think "what if that were me stuck there ?"

We looked for signs of people and just as Carrie told me we had reservations
at 6:30 (it was 6:15 or so), I decided to turn back on the road from the shoulder,
but traffic wouldn't let me back in line ... as I went to sort of make a smallish
hole,the whole right side fell away and sucked me in to the ditch completely.
I was able to move forward and back a little, but basically couldn't go anywhere.
After about a half hour the tow truck was finally able to get us all freed
up.  I had a scoop shovel and if a tow truck hadn't shown up I probably would've
dug through the ditch and driven into the nursery as it really isn't that deep
except for the sharp drop I was on ...

So that was my adventure last night, supposed to get more snow today and Christmas,
so that should make it even more interesting :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: When to give up on a project???
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 09:41:00 -0800


The way I look at it is that an old truck is a long (perhaps life long)
project that you have to commit to which means you should look for one that
has the appeal to keep you interested.  In my case a 4x4, F-5 or 6, 48 Ford
would be the cat's meow but I can be satisfied with lesser trucks as well.
It's all in your perspective:

1..CAN YOU AFFORD TO OWN ANY KIND OF A TRUCK?
2..Do you want a project that is an extension of yourself?
3..Do you enjoy doing things with your hands (like taking all the skin off
your knuckles :-))?
4..Do you want a truck that can be upgraded at a cost that can be more
easily  justified because the parts to be replaced are not new or nice?
5..Do you have a reason to have a truck which you can defend in front of
your wife?
6..Will it be a non-critical vehicle in the family?

The more of these questions you can say yes to the better your purchase is.
If you can't say yes to at least two of these then perhaps you should get
out while you can :-(

If I were living in an "Inspection" state I would opt for a newer truck if I
really needed one and make payments on it if I were not mechanically
inclined, that is inclined to do mechanical stuff on a regular bassis, not
necessarily "Just able" to do it :-)  It sounds like you are not especially
interested or able to do the work yourself in which case this truck could
become a mill stone around your neck because it is old and things will be
breaking and as time goes by it will become harder and harder to justify it
to your wife.  (this last is not a small issue)  Many of us on this list
including myself would dearly love to have your truck for the price you paid
but we should probably be institutionalized......and in my case at least it
would not be a primary vehicle so could sit if I didn't have the cash to
work on it:-)

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> like I made a bad decision in purchasing this truck.  How do you know when
> to get out before "spending good money after bad"?
>
> So far I've got the following into it.
>
> $1200 purchase price
> $350 rear drums/pads/bearings
> $150 PA registration
> $50 tuneup (cap/rotor/wires/filters)



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: choke
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:06:07 -0800


Ok, here I am to answer all you questions......:-)  Here are my suggestions
for typical Holley type electric setups:

My bronco has the proverbial Holley 650, throwitonandhopeitworks, after
market, carb with electric choke.  Some of these have an additional hot air
line going to them to assist in the heating up process but mine does not.

In my opinion the hot air system is the best because it works with the
engine temp rather than some arbitrary assumption of a time span like the
electrics do but they are more troublesome to keep in good order too.

Electric chokes typically open too fast so that you wind up too rich in
summer and too lean in winter so you do the summer/winter adjusting thing
but there is a solution :-)

Slow the choke down a tad and adjust it to work in winter and it will also
work in summer.  I put a .7 ohm ballast resistor between the power source
and the choke cap on my bronco which added about 5 minutes to the opening
time, then adjusted the choke plate to be spring loaded closed  (just enough
pressure to make it stay closed) when cold (on a cold day, 30 or so) and it
works very nicely now.  The electric module must be in good working order
for it to do it's job and may need replacement if it's very old but you can
test this easily by just turning on the ignition (to energize the choke
module) and watching the choke plate once you have verified that all links
are hooked up and properly adjusted to control the choke plate.  Basiclly
what that means is that you can manually move the choke plate with the
linkage through it's full travel with the throttle linkage out of the way.
The rest of the adjustment is in the orientation of the choke cover (black
plastic thing with the spring in it)  On Holleys the spring must be attached
to the arm so that it can control the arm in both directions, either with a
loop at the end of the spring which encircles the arm or a notch in the arm
for the spring to slip into.

BTW, most chokes can be retrofitted to become electric and I do recommend
this since it can be controlled as above.  It still results in an arbitrary
time span to warm the engine but this is easier to maintain than some of the
divorced and hot air systems I've seen.  I'm really kicking myself now for
not applying this to my Rochester project.  The hot air spring was $13 and
the electric was $28, either one would fit and work.  Now I've spent the $13
and destroyed the slot so I'm out the money no matter what I do.......Just a
thought for those anticipating spending money on their chokes.....the
electric version has a nice hump sticking out you can grab hold of to turn
for adjustments which is another reason for going with that one.
(HINDSIGHT!)

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Can someone clue me in on correct automatic choke operation?  I suspected
> that mine was not closing for cold weather starts, since the engine starts
> and runs rough, until it warms up.



------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Oops.
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:23:32 -0800


Yeah, everyone was talking about the "Big Storm" for Wednesday night that
never happened, me with my plow ready to go too :-(

You only got stuck once in 10 years?  When I had my paper route I got stuck
two or three times a day back in 79.  Sometimes I dug out, sometimes I got a
tug......that was one monster winter in this area.  There were roads with
hills on each side that had 20' of snow in them the best part of the winter
that year.  One had a milk truck stuck in it for almost two weeks.  They
managed to plow one single path around it for traffic but every day it was
plugged up solid again.  Took three county trucks chained together to get
that thing out of there......

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> Well, it finally happened, after 10 years of driving and 6 years of
driving that
> 70s truck, I got it stuck to the point of needing a tow.  Should've


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:57:50 EST
Subject: Re: Oops.

In a message dated 12/20/2000 6:33:05 AM Pacific Standard Time,
wish ford-trucks.net writes:


> Well, it finally happened, after 10 years of driving and 6 years of driving
> that
> 70s truck, I got it stuck to the point of needing a tow.

Well it seems to me that you just arent tryin hard enough!

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 11:22:14 -0800
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: EBrakes, fun in the snow...




Gary wrote:

> <snip>
>
> I also have some other Plowing tips:

<snip>
Another tip for plowing with an old truck (what else is there?): Put lotsa
weight in the back. It makes the back work harder and takes alot of strain off
the front end. The weight of the plow and plow frame on the front puts alot of
stress on your axles, especially w/nothing in the back. Some people have said BS
to this, but it's them that break something in the front ... usually when they
get stuck and then put chains on the front tires ...



>
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 12:41:52 -0500
From: Tony Marino <redneck raex.com>
Subject: Front Dana-60 info needed


Hey guys-

On a dana-60 front axle for 78--  is it a 35 spline or a 30 spline shaft?

Also, can anybody give me the width of the spring perches from center hole
to center hole? I need it at work and I don't have the right truck here to
measure!

Thanks-

Tony Marino




At 11:22 12/20/2000 -0800, you wrote:



>Gary wrote:
>
> > <snip>
> >
> > I also have some other Plowing tips:
>
><snip>
>Another tip for plowing with an old truck (what else is there?): Put lotsa
>weight in the back. It makes the back work harder and takes alot of strain off
>the front end. The weight of the plow and plow frame on the front puts alot of
>stress on your axles, especially w/nothing in the back. Some people have
>said BS
>to this, but it's them that break something in the front ... usually when they
>get stuck and then put chains on the front tires ...
>
>
>
> >
> >



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Headers and gas Mileage
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 10:41:41 -0800


Find replies imbedded below

>
>
>
> >I have a 76 F-150 with a 390.   Right my truck is only
> getting 7 mpg, so
> >I am looking into ways to increase the gas mileage.
>
>
> I can understand that, I've got a mild 76 390 in my 70's truck...
>

I can offer perspective from 2 1976 390 equipped pickups.
1. F-350 crew cab 2wd 4spd Headers/dual exhaust  8MPG
2. F-150 Supercab 2wd C6  Stock manifold/exhaust (original can you believe
it?) 12 MPG

>
> > It has the stock
> >np203 in it right now, so I am already making plans to
> replace it with a
> >205 or put a part time kit in it.  I assume that will make a
> fair amount
> >of difference,
>
> It made some for me, but not a lot ... mostly it helped with
> the power ... that
> was with the tired old 360 though too...
>

Can't offer anything here.  Both mine are 2wd



> but what about the engine?  It has the stock compression
> >ratio, factory 4bbl intake manifold, Holly 600cfm with vacuum
> >secondaries, a Crane RV cam, and the stock exhaust manifolds.
>
> Mine is set up similarly, though not exactly ... did you swap
> the intake on
> yourself ?  Its odd to find a 390 equipped 4x4 from the factory ...
>

Both of mine had 4bbl holleys.  I'm sure the Supercab is original.

> >I wonder
> >if any of you might have some input on how much mileage is
> to be gained
> >from headers.
>
> Dunno, probably none 'cause you won't be able to keep your
> foot out of it :)
>

I'm planning on going to headers in the spring.  let you know.

>
> What sort of gears/tires are you running ?  I've got 30"
> tires with 3.50 gears
> and am getting a solid 10mpg and it needs a tune up badly ...
> with the old 2V
> and 360 I was getting 12 all the time ... so 7 sounds a bit
> low to me ... if
....

---

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