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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 12 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 365

In This Issue:
Brake pedal "stuck"
Re: Brake pedal "stuck"
302 Engine on 61 F-100
Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help
Re: FTE T-shirt
Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #3)
Re: choke
Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help
Re: Brake pedal "stuck"
Urgent Gas tank problem
Re: Urgent Gas tank problem
Re: Urgent Gas tank problem
Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help
Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?
Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?
Re: choke
Re: Brake pedal "stuck"
Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?
Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help
Stethoscopes
Re: Stethoscopes
Re: choke
Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?
Re: c6 tranny - divorced tcase
Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?
Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?
4spd 3rd gear shift grinding
Limited slip D60
Choke

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 05:15:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Brake pedal "stuck"


Ok folks,

I've got one more question about my '79 F-350.  It seems that my brake
pedal won't come back up off the floor.  Sometimes it will and sometimes
it won't.  The brakes seem to be ok but its hard to tell since I can't
drive it (being not inspected and all.)  I can put my foot under it and
pull it back up but that's not acceptable in the long run.  :-)  I've
checked the vaccuum to the brake booster and it seems to be fine.  What
else should I check to find this problem?

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project stalled)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Re: Brake pedal "stuck"
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:22:32 -0500


I've got one more question about my '79 F-350.  It seems that my brake
pedal won't come back up off the floor.  Sometimes it will and sometimes
it won't.  The brakes seem to be ok but its hard to tell since I can't
drive it (being not inspected and all.)  I can put my foot under it and
pull it back up but that's not acceptable in the long run.  :-)  I've
checked the vaccuum to the brake booster and it seems to be fine.  What
else should I check to find this problem?

This happened on my '77 F150, I was going to replace the booster and when I
had it off I noticed the linkage was rusty, cleaned it all up and everything
worked fine. Might be as simple as that for a start. (It's nice if its a
cheap fix!)

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

From: "Erol" <erolb turk.net>
Subject: 302 Engine on 61 F-100
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 15:22:21 +0200


Dear All,

I am placing a V8 302 with a C4 Auto Trans. to my 1961 F100, I am also
thinking to update the brakes to a disc system. I appreciate your comments
or experiences you have had.

Regards

Erol B.
Istanbul-Turkey


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:37:17 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help


I am in digest mode, so if a couple of these questions are answered,
forgive me.  I checked the linkage when I had the pan off.  All of
the nylon bushings are there, everything works properly and freely.

Let me try to explain the problem a bit better.  When it is cold, (truck

and tranny), I can put the tranny in any gear and it goes into gear fine

(nice solid shift into gear, no slipping into gear).  Now, when the
truck gets up to operating temperature, the truck stays in drive,
doesn't slip into any foward gears, and works perfectly fine.  If I
shift the truck into park, the truck will go back into drive without any

problems.  If I shift into Reverse first, then try to shift into drive,
it will not engage drive, until the truck cools down (usually about an
hour).  It has done this everytime.

Now here is a couple of other things that I noticed will under the truck

tonight.  The Y pipe is cracked on top, and blowing hot exhuast right on

the tranny cooler lines.  Second thing, is that the truck has a tranny
cooler on it, and the rubber hoses that connect the cooler to the
factory lines are about 3 feet long each and old.  I am reaching here, I

know, but is there a chance that the exhuast is heating the fluid too
hot, or that the old hoses are collapsing when the fluid is getting hot?

I have rebuilt many C-6s, and I almost know for a fact that this tranny
is not blown.  I have had a problem similar to this (it was slow going
into gear), but it did it all of the time, not just when warm or cold.
The fluid is a nice dark red, it does not smell burn (I have had a
couple of nasty blow ups).

Thanks for the info.

Steve S.
54 F-100
76 F-350 Crew cab
77 F-250 Supercab
79 Bronco
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:40:41 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FTE T-shirt


At 10:28 PM 12/11/00, you wrote:

>Guys and Gals,
>
>I just got the newly designed Ford-Truck Enthusiasts T-shirt (size 2XL for
>us fatboys) in the mail today and man does it look great!  I doubt
>seriously that anyone will be disappointed with the look, the color and the
>quality of the shirt and printing!  Good Job Ken!!! (hope you don't mind me
>plugging the clothing line!)
>
>Stu
>Nuke GM!
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm  (1971 F-100 4x4 for sale!!!)

No, I don't mind you plugging the clothing.  Especially after
what I paid to get them done!  Osborne designed it using photos
I took.  The balance of orders should arrive this week.  We sent
out a lot last week but the lady who helps with shipping was
sick Thursday and Friday (Peggy pitched in though).

Ken



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #3)
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 05:44:03 -0800


<snip>
>
> This evening the mechanic called me with the latest puzzle.
> The leak down
> test
> does not show leaking through the exhaust valves as expected but
> is leaking back into the valve cover area.  He says that this
> indicates
> that it is leaking by the valve guides (Rodney mentioned that
> he had had
> this problem.) BUT the mechanic says that when this happens
> then the engine
> should be smoking and it does not.
>

I think that if it is the valve guides/seals then usually the only smoking
you will see is a puff at startup.  There might also be some smoking when
decelerating when the engine is under high vacuum and causing it to suck
some oil down the valve guides.

If the guides have been leaking you might have a carbon buildup on the
intake or exhaust valve large enough to block airflow into those cylinders.

I don't know if it's time to open the engine up yet but things seem to be
pointing to pulling the heads and reworking them.

Keep us informed.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: choke
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 05:44:02 -0800


You don't mention the type of carb.  I have a holley on mine.  Most of the
replies to your message I have read apply to the Holly and are also general
enough to be good for other carbs too.  I know that the suggestion about the
3 screws on the round housing will work on a Holley.

Some general observations on choke operation as I have observed on my
Holley.
1.  As the engine cools (overnight) the choke will NOT close all the way.
There is a stepped linkage on the throttle that provides your fast idle
operation when cold.  This prevents the choke mechanism from closing.

2.  Before starting the engine if you pump the throttle the choke blade
should close all the way.  Check that the linkage is free to move as has
been suggested.  Adjust the round choke housing on the passenger side until
the blade just closes all the way.

3.  Before starting the engine, if the throttle linkage is put to the floor
(fully open) the choke blades should open a little.  This is the flood
clearing mechanism.  If you flood the engine when cold and need extra air
and less choke to clean out the rich condition put the throttle to the floor
and hold it (don't pump) and crank the engine till it starts.  (Makes
copious amounts of black smoke when started).  This also works on fuel
injected engines.

4.   After the engine starts it doesn't need full choke anymore even when
cold so the vacuum pot should pull the choke blade open enough to allow air
in.

5.  After the engine starts it should have a higher idle than when cold.
This is adjusted on an impossible to reach screw located on the passenger
side of the carb that acts on a stepped plastic piece.  The screw is upside
down with the head pointing toward the intake manifold.

When properly setup the automatic choke works pretty well.  I'm happy with
mine.  Some people have said they have to adjust theirs twice a year in the
spring and fall to compensate for the prevailing temperature conditions.  I
haven't experienced this but then maybe I'm willing to tolerate a little
more rough operation than they are.

Good luck.

Tom H.



> > List:
> >
> > Can someone clue me in on correct automatic choke
> operation?  I suspected
> > that mine was not closing for cold weather starts, since
> the engine starts
> > and runs rough, until it warms up.
> >
> > Upon inspection- sure enough, the choke was nearly
> completely open during
> > cold-starting.  Additionally, it did not fully open after
> warming up.
> >
> > I discovered the choke valve to be stuck in its 'nearly'
> open position.
> The
> > binding point seemed to be inside the little vacuum plunger
> inside the
> choke
> > mechanism.  (Does this make any sense?).
> >
> > Well, I got the mechanism freed up, so now the choke valve opens and
> closes
> > freely (by hand), and opens fully when the engine is running warm.
> However,
> > it still does not close when starting cold, and to be
> honest, I don't
> > understand what is supposed to happen to get it closed
> (automatically).
> >
> > I think I understand how it's supposed to open (rolled coil
> of metal warms
> ,
> > expands, thus pushing the choke valve open), but what
> triggers the choke
> > valve to close when it's cold?  Is that little vacuum
> plunger supposed to
> > push it closed?  (I'm not even sure if it's actually a
> vacuum plunger).
> >
> > Sorry for the tedious questions, but TIA for your input.
> (you all are a
> > great resource!)
> >
> > P.S.- thanks for your help with my power steering leak.  A
> new o-ring
> behind
> > the large threaded fitting did the trick- no teflon tape
> necessary.  Also,
> I
> > finally got my emissions stuff on (sort of) and passed the
> inspection, but
> > I'll leave the details for another time.
> >
> > -Randy
> >  '79 F250 Supercab, 460



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:50:07 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help


>
>  Steve that's a nice stable of Ford horsepower you have listed there.
> Congrats on the new purchase.
> Simplest question first, When you check the fluid was the tranny warm,
> engine idling, trans in park or neutral?  If these conditions are not met
> then the fluid will read high on the stick.  Then when filling the trans
> since you get a high false reading you don't put enough in.  The symptoms
> you list sounds like what I experience when my fluid is low.
>
> Tom H.

Thanks Tom.  The fluid was checked in park, at idle, at normal operating temperature.  The Fluid was about 3 inches about the full line on the dipstick.  I know that when the hydrualic fluid becomes airated, it will not apply full pressure (this is the reason to question air in the fluid passages).  Thanks for the input.


> When it gets warm, if you just use drive it works fine.
> > >If you stop, put it in park, it will go back into drive.  If you put it
> > >in reverse, it will not go back into drive.
> ========================================================
> i had a cruisomatic do the same thing turned out the valve body was cracked
> in it
> gordon
>

That will be my next step.  I have a known good valvebody with a shift kit in.

I sent a response earlier with a bit more information that may shed some light on a possible problem.  I just can not beleive that there are internal hard parts that are bad (I hope).

Steve S.
54 F-100
76 F-350 Crew cab
77 F-250 Supercab
79 Bronco
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/




------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Brake pedal "stuck"
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 05:53:41 -0800



>
> Ok folks,
>
> I've got one more question about my '79 F-350.  It seems that my brake
> pedal won't come back up off the floor.  Sometimes it will
> and sometimes
> it won't.  The brakes seem to be ok but its hard to tell since I can't
> drive it (being not inspected and all.)  I can put my foot
> under it and
> pull it back up but that's not acceptable in the long run.  :-)  I've
> checked the vaccuum to the brake booster and it seems to be
> fine.  What
> else should I check to find this problem?
>
> Later,
>
> Eric Finn
> '78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project stalled)
> '79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
>

Check that your master cylinder is good.  If it goes to the floor I'd
suspect it.  Check that the MC is full. Start the engine and step on the
brake pedal and hold pressure.  If the pedal goes slowly to the floor then
the MC piston is probably bad.  If/when you replace it pull the vacuum
booster off and drain the brake fluid out of it, BTDT.

If the MC checks out look for a leak at one of the other brake pistons.
Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 06:56:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Urgent Gas tank problem


Sorry to "clog up" the list today but I've got one more question that I
need help with.  My gas-tank apparently won't pass inspection here in PA
since the rear end of it is being held in with a chain.  My %$# #$ local
station won't fix it for me.  How in the world is this gas tank supposed
to be held into the frame?  At the moment its a long/thin tank on the
drivers side.  It mounts behind the cab with the long side along the
drivers side frame rail.  I don't have any ideas to fix this.

TIA,

Eric Finn (wishing he'd bought an already inspected truck)
'78 Bronco "The Beast"
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Urgent Gas tank problem
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:11:02 -0800


For a 69 F250,...

   The fuel tank should be held into place by two metal straps with bolts
at the ends. The straps should have something between them and the fuel tank
to prevent chaffing and squeaking. A piece of cloth or thin rubber should
work well.

Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Finn" <ecfinn yahoo.com>
To: "FTE" <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 6:56 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Urgent Gas tank problem


>
> Sorry to "clog up" the list today but I've got one more question that I
> need help with.  My gas-tank apparently won't pass inspection here in PA
> since the rear end of it is being held in with a chain.  My %$# #$ local
> station won't fix it for me.  How in the world is this gas tank supposed
> to be held into the frame?  At the moment its a long/thin tank on the
> drivers side.  It mounts behind the cab with the long side along the
> drivers side frame rail.  I don't have any ideas to fix this.
>
> TIA,
>
> Eric Finn (wishing he'd bought an already inspected truck)
> '78 Bronco "The Beast"
> '79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Urgent Gas tank problem
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 07:17:43 -0800


I would think that galvanized steel strapping (available at hardware stores
and commonly used to restrain hot water heaters) would be ideal for this
purpose.  It's sturdy, comes pre-drilled and is rust resistant.

As for the rubber insulators, cut up pieces of innertube (bicycle is
probably too thin) should do the trick nicely...

Shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks.

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael [mailto:danger csolutions.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 8:11 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Urgent Gas tank problem



For a 69 F250,...

   The fuel tank should be held into place by two metal straps with bolts
at the ends. The straps should have something between them and the fuel tank
to prevent chaffing and squeaking. A piece of cloth or thin rubber should
work well.

Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Finn" <ecfinn yahoo.com>
To: "FTE" <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 6:56 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Urgent Gas tank problem


>
> Sorry to "clog up" the list today but I've got one more question that I
> need help with.  My gas-tank apparently won't pass inspection here in PA
> since the rear end of it is being held in with a chain.  My %$# #$ local
> station won't fix it for me.  How in the world is this gas tank supposed
> to be held into the frame?  At the moment its a long/thin tank on the
> drivers side.  It mounts behind the cab with the long side along the
> drivers side frame rail.  I don't have any ideas to fix this.
>
> TIA,
>
> Eric Finn (wishing he'd bought an already inspected truck)
> '78 Bronco "The Beast"
> '79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:26:44 -0600
Subject: Re: choke
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> When properly setup the automatic choke works pretty well.  I'm happy with
> mine.  Some people have said they have to adjust theirs twice a year in the
> spring and fall to compensate for the prevailing temperature conditions.  I
> haven't experienced this but then maybe I'm willing to tolerate a little
> more rough operation than they are.

I am going to chime in here. Tom has some excellent suggestions. Somewhere
there is a temperature specification for setting the choke shut off
position. If you set it during cold weather, you won't get enough choke. If
you set it in hot weather, you will get too much choke. That is usually the
reason causing seasonal resets (guilty). The fast idle screw should be set
to spec with the engine at operating temperature. It isn't impossible to get
to, just very challenging.

The coil is a bimetal strip, not spring steel.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:32:59 -0600
Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> know, but is there a chance that the exhuast is heating the fluid too
> hot, or that the old hoses are collapsing when the fluid is getting hot?

Let's see, if I remember right, this is on the 79 Bronco, right? If you used
Ford ATF instead of Dexron, I'd change the fluid, including the torque
converter, one more time. What you describe sounds like low fluid or thin
fluid. I don't think the exhaust would heat up your transmission oil enough
to cause your problems, but if a cooler line is stopped up, you may be
overheating the transmission.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:34:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Urgent Gas tank problem
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> How in the world is this gas tank supposed
> to be held into the frame?  At the moment its a long/thin tank on the
> drivers side.  It mounts behind the cab with the long side along the
> drivers side frame rail.  I don't have any ideas to fix this.

Straps. Time to go to the junk yard.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 11:19:42 -0500


That will be my next step.  I have a known good valvebody with a shift kit
in.
>
> I sent a response earlier with a bit more information that may shed some
light on a possible problem.  I just can not beleive that there are internal
hard parts that are bad (I hope).
=========================================================
well i couldnt beleive it either my 62 t bird when it shifted would even
catch rubber in 2 gears BUT when cold it didnt wanna shift into 3rd and
didnt want to go into reverse either i yanked the pan and found a busted
piece on the valve body was causing it all tho
gordon



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:34:02 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?


>
>
>Is its still possible its a LS and just not working properly?
>

yep, but really really worn out.  As far as the gear oil is concerned
oil is oil.  What you add to a limited slip rear end is friction
modifier.  For topping off you can use regular gear oil.  Add some of
the friction modifier and see if that makes any difference.  You will
not be able to tell until you drive it a little.

>
>  > >One more datapoint.  A week or so ago I had one wheel jacked up and I
>>  >could spin it with the other wheel still on the ground and not moving.
>>  >Wouldn't this indicate some sort of clutch system or am I all wet
>>  again?
>>  >It felt like something was giving some resistance but just not much.
>>
>>  I would say the truck was in neutral allowing the drive shaft to turn.
>
>Actually its an automatic and the truck was in Park.  How does that affect
>the outcome?

This really worries me.  The transmission and t-case were in gear
(well park for the tranny) one rear wheel was on the ground and you
could still turn the other side?  (Rest of the list I need some help
on this one)  There would have to be some major mechanical problems
here.  But you could also drive it around the driveway.  If there was
a locking diff in there I could see it but you also said that with
both rear wheels off the ground they turn in opposite directions.  A
locker would no do that as far as I know.  Me confused.

My recommendations right now are to top off the gear oil in the rear
end, add friction modifier just in case, fix brakes and get it on the
road.  Then get back to the rear end if it starts to cause any
problems.

Just my .02
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:42:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?


Thanks, Don, for the help here.  With all the other $$^&* going on in my
life right now its good to know there are still people willing to help you
when you need it.  At least maybe I'll have a truck to drive, now a job
and health insurance are a matter for another list.  :-(

--- Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com> wrote:
> My recommendations right now are to top off the gear oil in the rear
> end, add friction modifier just in case, fix brakes and get it on the
> road.  Then get back to the rear end if it starts to cause any
> problems.

That's exactly what I'm hoping to do.  Now all I gotta fix are the
windshield (waiting for a +40 deg day to replace it), fix the exhaust leak
(can't do this until I can drive it), fix the gas tank, and fix the brake
pedal issue.  Somehow or other the todo list is getting smaller....

Later,

Eric Finn (my brain hurts...)
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project stalled)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"


__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
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------------------------------

From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
Subject: Re: choke
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 10:28:47 -0700

Thanks for all the input.  The automatic choke operation makes much more
sense now.  I'll be trying out some of your suggestions to get it to work
properly.

-Randy
'79 F250 Supercab, 460



------------------------------

From: "BJ Frederick" <akimp alaska.net>
Subject: Re: Brake pedal "stuck"
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 10:06:04 -0900


Eric:
    Had this problem with my 77 F150. After replacing the power assist
booster and the Master Cylinder I still had the problem with the pedal
sticking and having to pull it back up with my foot. On my brake pedal there
are two pivot points with bushings. I had to remove them both(did the top
one first and that didnt quite do it)  and clean them up and put neverseize
on them and now the problem is solved.

BJ 1977 F150 4x4 400/C6
Flairside "Bubba Grape"



------------------------------

From: "BJ Frederick" <akimp alaska.net>
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 10:20:35 -0900


Eric:
   My lubrication manual calls for 4oz of friction modifer  to be added to
the Dana 60 as part of the 6 pints of gear oil. The side note in the manual
says  "All locking rear axles add 4 oz. friction modifer EST-M2C118-A .
Hope this helps.

BJ 77 F150 4x4 400/C6
Flairside "Bubba Grape"



------------------------------

From: "BJ Frederick" <akimp alaska.net>
Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 10:28:37 -0900


Steve:
    My book calls for 27 1/2 pints for the 77 F100- F250 4x4 with C6.
Hope this helps.

BJ 77 F150 4x4 400/C6
Flairside "Bubba Grape"



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 12:26:02 -0800
From: Marv & Marge <ae722 lafn.org>
Subject: Stethoscopes


Garrett Nelson, garrettnelson writeme.com wrote:

> No, ask for a real stethoscope. The kind that they sell at auto parts stores.

Thanks, Garrett.  A real Stethoscope.  Not a real hose.  On the other hand,
if you're going to get a hose, you might as well get a real one.  ;-)

-M-

Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
"Striving to be the person
that my dog thinks I am".

------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Stethoscopes
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 14:40:10 -0600


*S*
heh

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marv & Marge" <ae722 lafn.org>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Stethoscopes


>
> Garrett Nelson, garrettnelson writeme.com wrote:
>
> > No, ask for a real stethoscope. The kind that they sell at auto parts
stores.
>
> Thanks, Garrett.  A real Stethoscope.  Not a real hose.  On the other
hand,
> if you're going to get a hose, you might as well get a real one.  ;-)
>
> -M-
>
> Marv Miller  mailto:ae722 lafn.org
> "Striving to be the person
>  that my dog thinks I am".
>


------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 19:01:43 EST
Subject: Re: choke

Thats good if you have the screws and not the revits in the lock down plate.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 17:26:29 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?


>
>     My lubrication manual calls for 4oz of friction modifer  to be added to
>the Dana 60 as part of the 6 pints of gear oil. The side note in the manual
>says  "All locking rear axles add 4 oz. friction modifer EST-M2C118-A .
>Hope this helps.
>

Hey BJ

Does your manual have a listing of what years a locker came
in?  I didn't know that there was ever a factory locking diff for the
rear end.  What do I look for on the diff tag?  Axle code?

TIA
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: "clint kelland" <ckelland klondiker.com>
Subject: Re: c6 tranny - divorced tcase
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 19:02:16 -0800


hey brett
how did you make out with the tranny?did you put in the c6 yet .if so how
did it work for you.i am thinking about doing the same project with my 73
f250
thanks
clint

----------
> From: Brett Yerks <byerks yahoo.com>
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] c6 tranny - divorced tcase
> Date: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 2:13 PM
>
>
> I have the opportunity to pick up a c6 out of a 73 LTD
> for fairly cheap.  It seems I could put that in my 76
> F250 very easily because the tcase is divorce mounted,
> I would just have to fab up a very short driveshaft
> and use the correct slip yoke.  I know the bolt
> pattern is correct for my application.  Anyone see any
> other possible problems with that?
>
> Thanks!
> Brett
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=767
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/
>

------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 22:53:19 -0800


> Does your manual have a listing of what years a locker came
> in?  I didn't know that there was ever a factory locking diff for the
> rear end.  What do I look for on the diff tag?  Axle code?
>
> TIA
> --
> Don Grossman
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

   I believe if the axle code on the door tag contains a letter with a
number then you have a LS differential. If the tag does not contain a letter
in the axle code, then you have a regular rear axle. Of course you may want
to verify this by removing the differential cover and visually inspecting
the differential. There are 2 types of LS commonly used, a 2 piece case, and
a 2 pinion LS. The 2 pinion LS resembles an open differential by appearance,
but is noticably different. Any typical service manual should have an image
of both LS types on a page showing the Dana 60 rear end.

If you spin one rear wheel with the rear axle raised off the ground and the
other rear wheel rotates in the opposite dirrection, then you have a regular
rear axle.

Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 22:33:54 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear?


>  > Does your manual have a listing of what years a locker came
>>  in?  I didn't know that there was ever a factory locking diff for the
>>  rear end.  What do I look for on the diff tag?  Axle code?
>>
>>  TIA
>>  --
>>  Don Grossman
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>     I believe if the axle code on the door tag contains a letter with a
>number then you have a LS differential. If the tag does not contain a letter
>in the axle code, then you have a regular rear axle.


Thanks

Great info on the limited slip stuff but I wanted to know
about the Locker.  BJ had a quote from his lube manual about locking
rear axles
At 10:20 AM -0900 12/12/00, BJ Frederick wrote:
>All locking rear axles add 4 oz. friction modifer EST-M2C118-A


I want a Locker  ;-)

Anybody?  When did Ford put in a factory locker?
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: 4spd 3rd gear shift grinding
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 08:03:24 -0500


Dear All,

When I try to shift into third gear, I have to push (moderately hard) to the
far right of the gate, and then up, for it to go in.  Otherwise, it grinds.
Any ideas what is causing this...Is it a simple adjustment that needs to be
made underneath?  I'm new to the 79 Bronco 4spd phenomenon.

Thanks,

-bob-
79 Bronco 460 44's T18
79 Bronco 400 40's C6



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Limited slip D60
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 07:15:10 -0600

Eric F. writes:  >>A week or so ago I had one wheel jacked up and I
could spin it with the other wheel still on the ground and not moving.
Wouldn't this indicate some sort of clutch system or am I all wet again?
It felt like something was giving some resistance but just not much.<<

Open rear.  No clutches.  I know that isn't what you wanted to hear, but
that is what you have.

Sorry,
Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 ....


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