 |
|
|
|
|
|
Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list 61-79-list); Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:14:31 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:14:31 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #364 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 11 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 364 In This Issue: I'm back. Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help Well, I'm back up again..... C-6 Gurus needed. Help Re: 79-83 wheel stud spacing Re: Just a little hello....... Re: Just a little hello....... Re: Just a little hello....... Re: Just Curious....M Block Question Re: Just a little hello....... Re: Just a little hello....... Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear? Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear? choke Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help It worked Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear? Re: choke FTE T-shirt Re: Stethoscope Re: Stethoscope Re: choke Re: choke Re: Engine missing - 1978 400 (Update #3) Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: I'm back. Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 05:31:18 -0800 I know you probably didn't miss me but I just got back from a business trip. My company sent me and my wife to a business meeting/Christmas party for a job well done last year. When the plane landed they drove up to the 757 in a white 79 Ford pickup with a aircraft stair body on the bed so I could disembark from the plane in BERMUDA!!! Sometimes I really like working for this company. I was there for 3 days and Carol and I had a good time. The driver for the transport service I hired to take us to boston told me they have all Ford equipment. 1 Lincoln, 1 Mercury, and 2 full size vans. She said the 2 vans both had over 400,000 miles each on them and both had the original untouched motors in them. 1 had a new transmission and 1 got a new rear end. She said this was the one they use to pull a trailer with. Not bad though for 800,000 combined miles. Sorry if I'm rambling but I'm a little punchy right now. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 05:42:39 -0800 > > Good day all. > I purchased a 79 Bronco last week. After checking all > fluids, I noticed > that the tranny fluid was at least 2 quarts high. <snip> > Any ways, after filling with the correct amount fluid, the tranny > shifted fine agian in the foward gears, but agian once the > tranny warmed > up, it would not shift back into drive. When cold it shifts solidly > into gear, it doesn't slip into any of the gears. I have had > a problem > similar to this, but it wouldn't go into gear all of the > time. Is there > a chance that I still have air in the fluid passages from > when the fluid > was to high? Do I have to flush the whole tranny? Or is the > tranny due > for a rebuild? > > TIA > Steve S. > 54 F-100 > 76 F-350 Crew cab > 77 F-250 Supercab > 79 Bronco > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/ > > Steve that's a nice stable of Ford horsepower you have listed there. Congrats on the new purchase. Simplest question first, When you check the fluid was the tranny warm, engine idling, trans in park or neutral? If these conditions are not met then the fluid will read high on the stick. Then when filling the trans since you get a high false reading you don't put enough in. The symptoms you list sounds like what I experience when my fluid is low. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 09:58:03 -0500 If it goes into all but high gear I suspect the fluid level is now too low or the modulator is bad or the air line is off the modulator.....If it only does this after warming up but works normally when cold then it may be more serious. You may have some valves hanging or the clutch pack itself may be hanging when warm. Normally low levels will affect the 2-3 upshft at all temps. Any ways, after filling with the correct amount fluid, the tranny shifted fine agian in the foward gears, but agian once the tranny warmed up, it would not shift back into drive. ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Well, I'm back up again..... Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:15:15 -0500 You guys must be getting tired of hearing about all my failures the last two weeks but here I am again with a different computer case but the system now seems to be working as I hoped and I can actually access the modem and receive and send mail now.....WHEEW! what a fiasco! Anyhow, it looks like we might be getting some snow again so I'm going to go out and work on my plow some more. This Meyer plow is in pretty good shape but had to replace a hose and fitting and drain the oil and refill it. (I'm an expert on filling them now, only 4 plugs and 4 hose connections to dink with :-)) BUT......I have a question.....my side to side thingy doesn't seem to work properly, it moves ok but you can push it back and forth by hand. I suspect there is a valve that must be leaking to allow this?? (got to fix my sig) Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping Happily Retired 78 Bronco Loving, Gary ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 08:59:13 -0600 From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: C-6 Gurus needed. Help >I purchased a 79 Bronco last week. After checking all fluids, I noticed >that the tranny fluid was at least 2 quarts high. It was driven very >little last week, but everything worked fine when it was cold. It >shifted fine. When it gets warm, if you just use drive it works fine. >If you stop, put it in park, it will go back into drive. If you put it >in reverse, it will not go back into drive. I originally thought that it >was becuase of the high fluid level. This past weekend I drained the >tranny, changed the filter and filled it with the proper amount of >fluid. I did not drain the convertor. The fluid looked dark red, did >not smell burnt (I have blown up my share of trannies) and there were >not any unusual particals in the pan. > >Any ways, after filling with the correct amount fluid, the tranny >shifted fine agian in the foward gears, but agian once the tranny warmed >up, it would not shift back into drive. When cold it shifts solidly >into gear, it doesn't slip into any of the gears. I have had a problem >similar to this, but it wouldn't go into gear all of the time. Is there >a chance that I still have air in the fluid passages from when the fluid >was to high? Do I have to flush the whole tranny? Or is the tranny due >for a rebuild? > Well, I am probably not a GURU but I do know that reverse is usually the last thing to go on a C6. It sounds like you have a worn pump or some other hard part that is causing a low pressure condition. _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:17:20 -0500 From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 79-83 wheel stud spacing At 08:23 AM 12/11/00 -0500, you wrote: >Nope, wont fit. Those Dodges used a car pattern of 5 on 4.5, your truck, and >the 83 have a 5 on 5.5 pattern. True, 75-79 Dodge wheels won't fit. You want to avoid full-time 4wd Dodges of this vintage for just about anything, except looking for a Big Block 4wd tranny (they only came in these year trucks behind 440's.) In 80 Dodge came back to their senses and put the 5x5.5 lug pattern wheels back on their trucks, along with bigger bearings for the wheels. I have a set of 83 aluminum Dodge wheels on my 78 right now as snow tires (15x7 rims with 32x10.5 Swampers, I normally run 15x10 wheels with 35x12.5's.) George Selby 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd 86 Nissan 300ZX gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Just a little hello....... Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:46:51 -0500 Ok, this is sort of a test. I'm trying a sig file instead of building it in outlook....BTW, I now have outlook back on line and am on my computer again. I downloaded a new copy of Internet explorer and it fixed all the problems I was having so I can use the full outlook package again (whoopee!). Just a note about my last two weeks....first I decided to upgrade.....upgrade didn't play after plugging.....modem died, then power supply just when I got it all working again so I'm going after a 300 w power supply to get my tower back on line (I hate desk tops). I ran down to the Auto parts store and picked up a new swivel connector for my Meyer plow and am on my way out to see if I can get it all working before we get covered up. It's 30 degrees, greasy but not really snowing much right now, maybe it's just a hoax :-) Well, I see my formatting didn't come through, back to the drawing board :-) Oh, there it is :-) I'm composing this in RTF, hope it works :-) -- Happily Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >Well, I'm back on my wife's computer after burning up 3 modems ------------------------------ From: BRussAZ aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:53:11 EST Subject: Re: Just a little hello....... In a message dated 12/11/00 7:47:28 AM Pacific Standard Time, gpeters3 lni.net writes:
<< I ran down to the Auto parts store and picked up a new swivel connector for my Meyer plow and am on my way out to see if I can get it all working before we get covered up. It's 30 degrees, greasy but not really snowing much right now, maybe it's just a hoax :-) Well, I see my formatting didn't come through, back to the drawing board :-) Oh, there it is :-) I'm composing this in RTF, hope it works :-) -- Happily Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >> hi Gary, when I read posts like this, they seem like from the twilight zone....all covered up, snowin...I cant imagine. Bill (Phoenix) 65 F100 ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:59:27 EST Subject: Re: Just a little hello....... In a message dated 12/11/00 7:53:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, BRussAZ aol.com
writes: << hi Gary, when I read posts like this, they seem like from the twilight zone....all covered up, snowin...I cant imagine. Bill (Phoenix) 65 F100 >> God bless the desert, no hurricanes, tornadoes, bird sized mosquitos, RUST, humidity, etc etc etc. Darrell & Tweety (Las Vegas) ------------------------------ From: "Dave Resch" <Dave.Resch sybase.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 09:28:02 -0700 Subject: Re: Just Curious....M Block Question >From: EffieFrd aol.com
> >I was talking to one of my Bronco buddies >who also has a '78, and he told me >the M series of engines are "weathered." Yo Mel: I know they didn't do this w/ the '77-on truck M-blocks. Every one I've seen had a build date no more than 10 days after the casting date. Dave R (M-block devotee) ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 17:57:05 GMT Subject: Re: Just a little hello....... >It's 30 degrees, greasy but not really snowing much >right now, maybe it's just a hoax :-) > Lucky you, my computer's tellin me its 2° looks like its still snowing pretty good (since about 10:00 last night) and the wind is whipping it up into some nice drifts ... AND the 1 U-joint I didn't replace when I had the front end replaced is apparently bad as there's an odd pop every so often from the driveline in 4wd, so I'll probably take the afternoon off (its finals week so its pretty slow) and see if I can replace that joint. Just lettin you know it wasn't a hoax for us. Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Just a little hello....... Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 11:47:15 -0600 Sounds tempting.. I hate wisconsin. It's cold.. It's humid in the summer. They SALT the roads in the winters others plenty of rust to share. Did i mention it's cold? -Don ----- Original Message ----- From: <JUMPINFORD aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 9:59 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Just a little hello....... > > In a message dated 12/11/00 7:53:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, BRussAZ aol.com
> writes: > > << hi Gary, > when I read posts like this, they seem like from the twilight zone....all > covered up, snowin...I cant imagine. > > Bill (Phoenix) > 65 F100 >> > > God bless the desert, no hurricanes, tornadoes, bird sized mosquitos, RUST, > humidity, etc etc etc. > > Darrell & Tweety (Las Vegas) > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:49:15 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear? Hey guys, Just a quick question regarding my D60 rear. In the process of doing my brake/bearings/etc. this weekend I tested it to see if its a limited slip. I jacked up both wheels and put the axle on stands then rotated one wheel forward. The opposite wheel when in the reverse direction. Usually this indicates an open diff correct? Or is it possible my LS is shot? Its currently low on fluid. I pulled the plug and could only barely feel fluid with mu pinky fully in the hole. How else can I tell if its a LS rear without pulling the pumpkin cover? BTW I looked for a tag on the pumpkin but no dice. Or would you suggest I do that now anyway since it doesn't seem to be working correctly? One more datapoint. A week or so ago I had one wheel jacked up and I could spin it with the other wheel still on the ground and not moving. Wouldn't this indicate some sort of clutch system or am I all wet again? It felt like something was giving some resistance but just not much. TIA. Eric Finn '78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project stalled) '79 F-350 4x4 "Fred" __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 16:11:26 -0500 When it gets warm, if you just use drive it works fine. > >If you stop, put it in park, it will go back into drive. If you put it > >in reverse, it will not go back into drive. ======================================================== i had a cruisomatic do the same thing turned out the valve body was cracked in it gordon ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 13:25:43 -0800 From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear? >Hey guys, > >Just a quick question regarding my D60 rear. In the process of doing my >brake/bearings/etc. this weekend I tested it to see if its a limited slip. > I jacked up both wheels and put the axle on stands then rotated one wheel >forward. The opposite wheel when in the reverse direction. Usually this >indicates an open diff correct? Or is it possible my LS is shot? Sounds like an open diff to me. Even if there was a limited slip in there you should have at least a little resistance. >Its currently low on fluid. I pulled the plug and could only barely feel >fluid with mu pinky fully in the hole. How else can I tell if its a LS >rear without pulling the pumpkin cover? Or would you suggest I do >that now anyway since it >doesn't seem to be working correctly? If you plan to drive it at all please fill the diff fluid to the bottom of the fill plug. All in all it sounds like you have a regular open diff. It can't hurt to take the cover off and take a look, give it a good cleaning and fresh fluid. > > >One more datapoint. A week or so ago I had one wheel jacked up and I >could spin it with the other wheel still on the ground and not moving. >Wouldn't this indicate some sort of clutch system or am I all wet again? >It felt like something was giving some resistance but just not much. I would say the truck was in neutral allowing the drive shaft to turn. >TIA. > >Eric Finn YWIA -- Don Grossman duckdon mac.com
------------------------------ From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
Subject: choke Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 14:39:27 -0700 List: Can someone clue me in on correct automatic choke operation? I suspected that mine was not closing for cold weather starts, since the engine starts and runs rough, until it warms up. Upon inspection- sure enough, the choke was nearly completely open during cold-starting. Additionally, it did not fully open after warming up. I discovered the choke valve to be stuck in its 'nearly' open position. The binding point seemed to be inside the little vacuum plunger inside the choke mechanism. (Does this make any sense?). Well, I got the mechanism freed up, so now the choke valve opens and closes freely (by hand), and opens fully when the engine is running warm. However, it still does not close when starting cold, and to be honest, I don't understand what is supposed to happen to get it closed (automatically). I think I understand how it's supposed to open (rolled coil of metal warms, expands, thus pushing the choke valve open), but what triggers the choke valve to close when it's cold? Is that little vacuum plunger supposed to push it closed? (I'm not even sure if it's actually a vacuum plunger). Sorry for the tedious questions, but TIA for your input. (you all are a great resource!) P.S.- thanks for your help with my power steering leak. A new o-ring behind the large threaded fitting did the trick- no teflon tape necessary. Also, I finally got my emissions stuff on (sort of) and passed the inspection, but I'll leave the details for another time. -Randy '79 F250 Supercab, 460 ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 18:49:25 EST Subject: Re: C-6 Gurus needed. Help In a message dated 12/11/00 6:21:48 AM Central Standard Time, schaefer plastekgroup.com writes:
> Just took a quick look at your site. The ride look good. Glenn NY. 78 F250 ------------------------------ From: "Daniel Beiers" <dbeiers rmpprestress.com>
Subject: It worked Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 17:05:53 -0700 Hey Guys, I got the power steering setup on my 67 F-100 yesterday. Works very well, not quite as good as I thought but I can park the thing and turn it with one hand. This is what I used. FoMoCo Steering gear from a 72 F-250(same gear though 79) Pulleys and pump from a 74 F-250 with a 390FE Driver's side engine mount from a 72 F-250 Power steering shaft from a 68 with a FoMoCo box new hoses and belts (74 F-250 w/ 390 V-8) Total cost was about 200 bucks not including fluid and little stuff like hose clamps. The steering wheel is still out a bit, i.e. the shaft is too long. I measured it all and compared and it should have fit like a glove, but, alas, it didn't. Looking to take it out again and have it cut and re-welded so my damn turn signal will turn off. Overall it was a success! Power brakes next...any input? Thanks for listening, Dan 67 F-100 (that can be parallel parked :) ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 19:15:09 EST Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear? Other than taking off the cover spinning the wheel is the only way I know of. If you suspect you might have a limited sliptry filling the oil up. With no oil the clutches tend to start drying out and no longer grip each other. Just my opinion. Glenn NY. 78 F250 ------------------------------ From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 19:23:47 EST Subject: Re: choke I myself prefer the manual cable choke myself but my understanding of the automatic choke is that the rolled steel is spring steel and thats what closes the choke when you first step on the gas before you start the truck. As it warms up the spring steel relaxes and allows the choke to open. I think thats how it works. Glenn NY. 78 F250 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 21:28:47 -0600 From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FTE T-shirt Guys and Gals, I just got the newly designed Ford-Truck Enthusiasts T-shirt (size 2XL for us fatboys) in the mail today and man does it look great! I doubt seriously that anyone will be disappointed with the look, the color and the quality of the shirt and printing! Good Job Ken!!! (hope you don't mind me plugging the clothing line!) Stu Nuke GM! http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm (1971 F-100 4x4 for sale!!!) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:16:53 -0800 From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Stethoscope ...so I should ask for a piece of real heater hose for Christmas...? Thanks for your message at 09:38 PM 12/9/00 -0800, Marv & Marge. Your message was: > >Ohio Bill, <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu> wrote:
>I suggest using a length of heater hose as a stethoscope (or would that be >a "uniscope"?) to listen for the exact location of this noise. > >How about a "real one"? > >I was just thinking about what I want for Christmas. My wife and I supply >each other a list this time of year. I already have one of these. But, for >those of you who don't, this might be a good thing for your own list. They're >relatively cheap, and are great for diagnosing things like noisy alternator and >water pump bearings. > >I use mine frequently, and if I lost it I would buy another. Available at auto >parts houses. > >-M- > >Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
>"Striving to be the person > that my dog thinks I am". > > > Dennis Pearson http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Stethoscope Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 22:20:42 -0600 No, ask for a real stethoscope. The kind that they sell at auto parts stores. :-) Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis Pearson To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 10:16 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Stethoscope ...so I should ask for a piece of real heater hose for Christmas...? Thanks for your message at 09:38 PM 12/9/00 -0800, Marv & Marge. Your message was: > >Ohio Bill, <kingw bgnet.bgsu.edu> wrote:
>I suggest using a length of heater hose as a stethoscope (or would that be >a "uniscope"?) to listen for the exact location of this noise. > >How about a "real one"? > >I was just thinking about what I want for Christmas. My wife and I supply >each other a list this time of year. I already have one of these. But, for >those of you who don't, this might be a good thing for your own list. They're >relatively cheap, and are great for diagnosing things like noisy alternator and >water pump bearings. > >I use mine frequently, and if I lost it I would buy another. Available at auto >parts houses. > >-M- > >Marv Miller mailto:ae722 lafn.org
>"Striving to be the person > that my dog thinks I am". > > > Dennis Pearson http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: choke Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 00:43:02 -0500 before you start the truck you need to press the gas pedal all the way to the floor & then release it.this will put the choke in the closed position. as the engine warms up it will open the choke automatically.if you don't have enough choke,you need to loosen the 3 screws on the round clamp that holds plastic choke housing in place & rotate it counter- clockwise(just loosen them enough to rotate the plastic housing) it usually doesn't take very much movement in order to give you more choke. -----Original Message----- From: Aeroape82 aol.com <Aeroape82 aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, December 11, 2000 7:34 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: choke >I myself prefer the manual cable choke myself but my understanding of the >automatic choke is that the rolled steel is spring steel and thats what >closes the choke when you first step on the gas before you start the truck. >As it warms up the spring steel relaxes and allows the choke to open. I think >thats how it works. > > >Glenn NY. > >78 F250 > > > ------------------------------ From: "Andersons" <robertan cfw.com>
Subject: Re: choke Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 00:53:27 -0500 Everything in the linkages on the choke side of the carb has to move perfectly free- the tension of the coiled spring pulls the choke/fast idle mechanism closed, and slowly lets it off as the engine warms, but the spring forces are fairly light. If any crud buildup, dirt, rust, bent parts, etc. restrict the free movement of parts, it will never work right. If it's only a dirt buildup jamming you, it can be very effective to get the engine hot, and then spray it all down (outer linkages and choke shaft) real good with carb/choke cleaner spray, with the "straw" attached for extra force. Use a good 1/2 can on the thing, until it's shiny and clean. Soak up all the extra juice- it's flammable. The plunger you mention is the vacuum pulloff- it pulls the choke plate open a bit after startup (against the spring), to give it enough air to keep it running when real cold. ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Cannon <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
To: FTE list 61-79 <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 4:39 PM Subject: [61-79-list] choke > List: > > Can someone clue me in on correct automatic choke operation? I suspected > that mine was not closing for cold weather starts, since the engine starts > and runs rough, until it warms up. > > Upon inspection- sure enough, the choke was nearly completely open during > cold-starting. Additionally, it did not fully open after warming up. > > I discovered the choke valve to be stuck in its 'nearly' open position. The > binding point seemed to be inside the little vacuum plunger inside the choke > mechanism. (Does this make any sense?). > > Well, I got the mechanism freed up, so now the choke valve opens and closes > freely (by hand), and opens fully when the engine is running warm. However, > it still does not close when starting cold, and to be honest, I don't > understand what is supposed to happen to get it closed (automatically). > > I think I understand how it's supposed to open (rolled coil of metal warms , > expands, thus pushing the choke valve open), but what triggers the choke > valve to close when it's cold? Is that little vacuum plunger supposed to > push it closed? (I'm not even sure if it's actually a vacuum plunger). > > Sorry for the tedious questions, but TIA for your input. (you all are a > great resource!) > > P.S.- thanks for your help with my power steering leak. A new o-ring behind > the large threaded fitting did the trick- no teflon tape necessary. Also, I > finally got my emissions stuff on (sort of) and passed the inspection, but > I'll leave the details for another time. > > -Randy > '79 F250 Supercab, 460 > > > > ------------------------------ From: "Dennis Smith" <hdennissmith earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine missing - 1978 400 (Update #3) Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 01:05:56 -0500 Dear List, This is my latest status report on troubleshooting the miss in my 1978 F150-400. Many, many thanks to those of you who have provided suggestions. I took the truck back to the shop this afternoon and left it expecting it to get a valve job. I had combined all of the suggestions into a report which I printed off for the mechanic and I believe he has done most/all of the suggested tests. One test which was suggested by several was the leak down test. He had planned to run this test when he had it before but I couldn't leave the truck long enough for him to do it that day so it was the first test that he did today. This evening the mechanic called me with the latest puzzle. The leak down test does not show leaking through the exhaust valves as expected but is leaking back into the valve cover area. He says that this indicates that it is leaking by the valve guides (Rodney mentioned that he had had this problem.) BUT the mechanic says that when this happens then the engine should be smoking and it does not. Another unexplained change. The vacuum gauge was reading about 17" at idle when I wrote the other day but was reading only about 12" today. Tests for vacuum leaks, leaking hoses, etc. turned up nothing. It now has new plugs, plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, intake manifold and carburetor. The new plugs are evenly colored. Compression test is good and values are pretty close. He is taking it for an electronic analyzer check up tomorrow. I appreciate everyones input and will be sure to let you know the outcome when this thing is resolved. Sincerely, Dennis Smith ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 05:11:04 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Dana 60 Rear? Thanks for the help thus far. More comments inline below. --- Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com> wrote:
> Sounds like an open diff to me. Even if there was a limited slip in > there you should have at least a little resistance. Is its still possible its a LS and just not working properly? > If you plan to drive it at all please fill the diff fluid to the > bottom of the fill plug. All in all it sounds like you have a > regular open diff. It can't hurt to take the cover off and take a > look, give it a good cleaning and fresh fluid. Don't worry I can't drive it yet since its not inspected. Its only been driven around the block once and into and out of my driveway. Not far enough for real problems. Now my question. If its NOT LS will it do any harm to put in the diff fluid for a LS? My thought is that its a malfunctioning LS so I don't want to fill it with regular diff fluid. Or am I putting too much thought into this? :-) > >One more datapoint. A week or so ago I had one wheel jacked up and I > >could spin it with the other wheel still on the ground and not moving. > >Wouldn't this indicate some sort of clutch system or am I all wet > again? > >It felt like something was giving some resistance but just not much. > > I would say the truck was in neutral allowing the drive shaft to turn. Actually its an automatic and the truck was in Park. How does that affect the outcome? Unfortunately I don't have time to tear this truck apart right now. I need something to drive when the snow/ice hits and my '95 Mustang aint gonna cut it. I'm getting the windshield replaced tomorrow and after that I only need to fix the exhaust leak and I should be able to get it .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. 
|