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Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 23:18:18 -0500 (EST)
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To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
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61-79-list Digest Wed, 06 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 360

In This Issue:
Re: ADMIN: New FTE search feature
Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Re: 79 400, how far gone????
Just a little hello.......
Re: Just a little hello.......
Re: engine miss
4 Speed for sale
Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?
Re: Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?
Re: Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?
Re: Gary's new truck
Anybody here near Everett, WA?
Hi-Boy auto swap/Gear drive
Re: Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "JOHN    HELLDORFER" <john96mom worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: New FTE search feature
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 19:35:42 -0800

Well Ken, You Did It Again :) :)

I just spent 15 min there looking around!
Say, Enter your last name and see what you can find !!




>>>>Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 18:38:44 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: New FTE search feature


Check out:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/search/phod.php3

Its a new search feature of FTE that allows you to do an
Open Directory search of the entire Internet.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts<<<<

JOHN   JBHF250
Santa Rosa, Calif.






------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 23:57:29 -0500


have you checked the valve springs themselves ?  sometimes they wear out &
lose some of their spring & don't operate the valves properly. if they get
weak enough,sometimes they break. my dad had that happen on his 460 in his
motor home.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Smith <hdennissmith earthlink.net>
To: 61-79-List <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 12:24 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Engine missing - 1978 400 (Update #2)


>
>
>Dear List,
>
>This is my third posting related to the engine missing in my
>1978 F150-400.
>Many thanks to those who have responded to my earlier postings.
>
>The problem was and continues to be a severe miss at low idle.
>
>Initially I had the plugs, wires, etc. replaced.  No improvement.
>
>My mechanic found a vacuum leak between the intake manifold
>and the carburator which necessitated replacing the intake
>manifold.
>
>Based upon input from the list and my mechanic's recommendation,
>I had him install an Edelbrock Performer manifold and an Edelbrock
>4V 600CFM Carburator W/Electric Choke.  It now has lots more pep
>but didn't fix the skip. :-(
>
>The two rear cylinders are still firing so poorly that
>pulling/crossing those two plug wires has little or no effect
>at idle.
>
>He has looked without success for additional vacuum leaks so the
>latest theory is that I may have slightly burned exhaust valves
>on those cylinders.  The next step being to pull the heads and
>check out the valves.  He then suggests that once we get that far,
>I should go ahead and replace the timing chain.  This sounds
>reasonable but the project is starting to run into a fair amount
>of money.  I'm wondering what else I should plan to do while he is
>in there in order to save money later and what ekse can I do to be
>as sure as possible that this  will really fix the problem.
>
>As I mentioned in my first post, the compression seems to be
>pretty good.
>
>     #4 145 lb                  #8 145 lb
>     #3 140 lb                  #7 140 lb
>     #2 135 lb                  #6 145 lb
>     #1 140 lb                  #5 140 lb
>
>A vacuum gauge shows only about 17" and the mechanic says that
>it should be reading about 22".
>
>>From the first the valves were suspect but how does that square
>with the compression test?
>
>The truck has dual exhausts and the sounds at the tailpipes
>are about the same on both sides.  Why would valves, cam lobes
>or anything else affect both rear cylinders evenly?  I could
>understand how a vacuum leak between the carburator and the intake
>manifold could affect both sides so now it looks like whatever
>is wrong must be a result of the earlier problem?
>
>The truck has only about 95,000 miles and is in excellent condition
>otherwise so I want to keep it up and drive it for many more years.
>
>Thanks again to all who have responded.  I had hoped to give a report
>today on how good everything had turned out but it just wasn't meant to be.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Dennis Smith
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: 79 400, how far gone????
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 00:39:27 -0800

Forget the gear drive unless you're just a big fan of the cool noise and
have extra $$ to waste. Get yourself a good true roller set and it will
outlive several motors.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: <GMontgo930 aol.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 7:06 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 79 400, how far gone????


>
> One more question if I may, any comments on a solid timing gear set vs the
> gear and chain setup? I know the solids are like 4x the price but I wonder
if
> they live longer. I would think they'd be more accurate over the long term
> due to no chain stretch. Again, just thinking. My pocket book will
probably
> win out over my dreams anyway!




------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Just a little hello.......
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 08:56:43 -0800

Well, I'm back on my wife's computer after burning up 3 modems due to a faulty, so called, surge protector #$%^%$%#$ .  Apparently my son's protector with the neat little phone line protector built in got zapped and there is a short somewhere which backed up into my modems as I installed them.  Anyway my plug and play Tyan board is now functioning except for the modem but it only took me 12 hours to "automatically" find all the cards and set them up with the new, fancy dancy, plugnplay technology........BUMMER!!!!

Also got me a new truck with a plow on it but I won't go into what year or..........brand.......price (and terms) was right and it will plow my driveway.........don't even ask, I'll evade the question :-)

Finally got Jimmy's Escort out of the barn with new brakes, lines, sway bar bushings, right wheel bearing (which probably only needed to be tightened up) but I have one question, not truck related, about the steering box......anyone know where you adjust these?

Haven't ever looked at my trucks yet.....too busy playing with computers and everyone elses vehicles......and buying stuff.......like the KitchenAid mixer (which I bought for my wife :-)), then found out there was an evern bigger one with a big block engine in it, RATS!  Wasn't a 460 but 425 is better than 350 any day in my book :-) (watts, that is :-))

AnyHooooo, looks like I better get out to the barn and work on my new truck so I can actually keep mine and my neighbor's drive way cleaned up (snowing like mad out there right now :-))  That was the deal, he gave it to me for $500 if I keep his drive cleaned up for his wife until they sell the house.  He's moved up north (more up north :-)) but she's hanging out down here for a year or so to finish up loose ends.

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:46:25 GMT
Subject: Re: Just a little hello.......


>Finally got Jimmy's Escort out of the barn with new brakes, lines, sway bar
bushings, right wheel bearing (which probably only needed to be tightened up)
but I have one question, not truck related, about the steering box......anyone
know where you adjust these?
>

Aren't these rack and pinion ?  I'm not sure there is an adjustment on them,
at least not an advertised one of any sort ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: engine miss
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 10:08:25 -0500


> As I mentioned in my first post, the compression seems to be
> pretty good.
>
>    #4 145 lb                  #8 145 lb
>    #3 140 lb                  #7 140 lb
>    #2 135 lb                  #6 145 lb
>    #1 140 lb                  #5 140 lb
>
>A vacuum gauge shows only about 17" and the mechanic says that
> it should be reading about 22".
>

It would seem to me that toasted valves on any given cylinder would
let out some of the compression on the affected cylinders, but all of
your readings are pretty consistent.
17 to 22" of vacuum is normal, but 17" is on the low end of things.
according to my manuals here, low but steady vacuum = late ignition
timing.  Try advancing the timing a little and see if it helps.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 09:15:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Gary's new truck
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Also got me a new truck with a plow on it but I won't go into what year
> or..........brand.......price (and terms) was right and it will plow my
> driveway.........don't even ask, I'll evade the question :-)

I get the feeling it might be related to neck part of a tuxedo...At least
you won't have to go far to retrieve it.

Someone has an ad for a 79 Bronco with 1000 miles on a new 351m for $1000.
If anyone is seriously interested, I'll call it and relay the info. Keep in
mind that the soldiers bring in stuff that has been all over the world. It
may or may not be a rust free central Texas truck.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 4 Speed for sale
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 10:24:17 -0600

Anyone looking for a FOMOCO Toploader there is one for sale on Ebay.
WWW.Ebay.com.
Item 517832666.
Says it is from a '69 428SCJ stang.
RUGAE2 01665.
Located in Iowa.
3 more days.
Bidding is $430.00

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 14:56:15 -0500
From: somalley voyager2.cns.ohiou.edu (Sean O'Malley)
Subject: Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?

I don't think my truck wants to be a hotrod :).  Two days after the
headers for my planned 300-4bbl swap showed up, the engine started making an
ominous knocking sound.  Before I go putting go-fast parts on this thing,
I need to track this noise down.  Anyone wanna help me diagnose this?

Cold engine: no unusual noises

Hot engine: (after about 5 miles at highway speed) deep, resonant, almost
hollow-sounding knock at idle.  Reminds me of the sound of something
very heavy tapping against something else very heavy, or of stout gears
clashing against themselves just the tiniest bit (like back gears on an
old metal lathe, only much deeper tone).

Knock seems to speed up with the engine, though it's hard to tell
because it gets lost under normal engine noise above maybe 1500
rpms.

Knock always appears after warm-up, but I sometimes can get it
to go away temporarily, sometimes by bumping the throttle a couple
of times, sometimes by bopping the power steering back and forth
while standing still (IE, putting a brief load on the engine).  In
either of these cases, once the engine returns to idle, the knock is
gone.  Other times, it's still there...

The last time I drove the truck, it started running hot as well
as making the knocking sound.  Never got above the "normal" range,
though I think it would have if I hadn't made it onto the highway
(in 20 degree weather) when I did.  Before this incident, the engine
had always run at exactly the same almost-bottom-of-gauge temp.  Even
on 95 degree days, it stayed at the same temp.

Other details that might matter, might not:

1. Ever since I've owned the truck, I have had to avoid engine braking
above 2800 rpms.  Any time I forget and do this, the power steering
belt flips itself upside down on the pulleys, and I have to pull over
and reset it.  Accelerating up to 3500/4000 (where the engine quits
making any semblance of power) doesn't affect the belt.  Only
decel.

2. Ever since I've owned the truck, it has had a slightly rough
idle.  Not enough to shake or be a problem, just an occasional "putt
putt" through the tailpipe.  I figured this was probably related to
the 1bbl carb having seen better days...

Things I have checked so far (or will check this evening):

1. Oil level is fine
2. Don't seem to have any exhaust components rattling against
  the frame.
3. Coolant level (need to check this evening)

Oh yeah, the truck is a 78 150 4x4, 300cid, 3 spd manual trans, no
AC.  I haven't started or driven it since the night it started to
run hot.

--sean

------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 21:20:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?


>Cold engine: no unusual noises
>
>Hot engine: (after about 5 miles at highway speed) deep, resonant, almost
>hollow-sounding knock at idle.  Reminds me of the sound of something
>very heavy tapping against something else very heavy, or of stout gears
>clashing against themselves just the tiniest bit (like back gears on an
>old metal lathe, only much deeper tone).
>

Do you have an oil pressure gauge, or just a light?  If you have a light, I'd
suggest getting a cheap gauge just for testing ... plumb that in there and see
what kind of pressure you've got, these are classic symptoms of worn bearnings
and thin oil ... cold the oil is thick enough to maintain pressure, as it warms
up it thins out and flows faster ... worn main/rod bearings begin to knock at
low revs because the oil pump can't keep up ...

Any number of solutions from ultra cheap (thicker oil) to all out rebuild ...



>1. Ever since I've owned the truck, I have had to avoid engine braking
>above 2800 rpms.  Any time I forget and do this, the power steering
>belt flips itself upside down on the pulleys, and I have to pull over
>and reset it.  Accelerating up to 3500/4000 (where the engine quits
>making any semblance of power) doesn't affect the belt.  Only
>decel.

Check the pulley alignment, I'll bet its out just a smidge and that's causing
the problem ...

As for the overheating, could be related, check the oil and coolant and be sure
they're where there supposed to be (both level and location (ie no anti-freeze
in the oil as that doesn't lubricate very well)



Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:09:40 -0600


Mine runs hot and makes a knocking sound when the timing was off, maybe it
needs adjusting?

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Sean O'Malley
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 1:56 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?

I don't think my truck wants to be a hotrod :).  Two days after the
headers for my planned 300-4bbl swap showed up, the engine started making an
ominous knocking sound.  Before I go putting go-fast parts on this thing,
I need to track this noise down.  Anyone wanna help me diagnose this?

Cold engine: no unusual noises

Hot engine: (after about 5 miles at highway speed) deep, resonant, almost
hollow-sounding knock at idle.  Reminds me of the sound of something
very heavy tapping against something else very heavy, or of stout gears
clashing against themselves just the tiniest bit (like back gears on an
old metal lathe, only much deeper tone).

Knock seems to speed up with the engine, though it's hard to tell
because it gets lost under normal engine noise above maybe 1500
rpms.

Knock always appears after warm-up, but I sometimes can get it
to go away temporarily, sometimes by bumping the throttle a couple
of times, sometimes by bopping the power steering back and forth
while standing still (IE, putting a brief load on the engine).  In
either of these cases, once the engine returns to idle, the knock is
gone.  Other times, it's still there...

The last time I drove the truck, it started running hot as well
as making the knocking sound.  Never got above the "normal" range,
though I think it would have if I hadn't made it onto the highway
(in 20 degree weather) when I did.  Before this incident, the engine
had always run at exactly the same almost-bottom-of-gauge temp.  Even
on 95 degree days, it stayed at the same temp.

Other details that might matter, might not:

1. Ever since I've owned the truck, I have had to avoid engine braking
above 2800 rpms.  Any time I forget and do this, the power steering
belt flips itself upside down on the pulleys, and I have to pull over
and reset it.  Accelerating up to 3500/4000 (where the engine quits
making any semblance of power) doesn't affect the belt.  Only
decel.

2. Ever since I've owned the truck, it has had a slightly rough
idle.  Not enough to shake or be a problem, just an occasional "putt
putt" through the tailpipe.  I figured this was probably related to
the 1bbl carb having seen better days...

Things I have checked so far (or will check this evening):

1. Oil level is fine
2. Don't seem to have any exhaust components rattling against
  the frame.
3. Coolant level (need to check this evening)

Oh yeah, the truck is a 78 150 4x4, 300cid, 3 spd manual trans, no
AC.  I haven't started or driven it since the night it started to
run hot.

--sean



------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: Gary's new truck
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:10:56 -0600


Dang I wish I hadn't bought that '70 F250, no mo money =(

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of John LaGrone
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 9:15 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Gary's new truck


> Also got me a new truck with a plow on it but I won't go into what year
> or..........brand.......price (and terms) was right and it will plow my
> driveway.........don't even ask, I'll evade the question :-)

I get the feeling it might be related to neck part of a tuxedo...At least
you won't have to go far to retrieve it.

Someone has an ad for a 79 Bronco with 1000 miles on a new 351m for $1000.
If anyone is seriously interested, I'll call it and relay the info. Keep in
mind that the soldiers bring in stuff that has been all over the world. It
may or may not be a rust free central Texas truck.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 15:44:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Hot engine: (after about 5 miles at highway speed) deep, resonant, almost
> hollow-sounding knock at idle.  Reminds me of the sound of something
> very heavy tapping against something else very heavy, or of stout gears
> clashing against themselves just the tiniest bit (like back gears on an
> old metal lathe, only much deeper tone).

My guess is water pump. Listen to it with a broom handle. I was sure I had
piston skirt slapping when mine went out. Does the PS belt that flips run
across the water pump? If so, that pulley is probably wobbly. (Sorry, I only
run V8s these days.)

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 16:32:10 -0600
From: John Strauss <jstrauss inetport.com>
Subject: Anybody here near Everett, WA?


Need someone to check out a truck for me if you are close by.  Any takers?
Email me off list if you can help.  Thanks.
  _
_| ~~.  John Strauss
\, *_}  jstrauss inetport.com
  \(    Texas Fight!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 18:28:06 -0800
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Hi-Boy auto swap/Gear drive


>>I have the opportunity to pick up a c6 out of a 73 LTD
>>for fairly cheap.  It seems I could put that in my 76
>>F250 very easily because the tcase is divorce mounted,
>>I would just have to fab up a very short driveshaft
>>and use the correct slip yoke.  I know the bolt
>>pattern is correct for my application.  Anyone see any
>>other possible problems with that?

I have thought of this swap for my 76 Hi-Boy .
The problem is mounting the T-case lever.
The lever bolts to the trans.and I have never seen a
Ford auto with a place to mount a T-case lever.
Divorced T-case/auto combos are rare.
(I have never seen one,and only know they exist because
of this list)
Most auto/t-case combos are married and the T-case lever
is mounted on the adapter between the trans and T-case.


>>One more question if I may, any comments on a solid timing gear set vs the
>>gear and chain setup? I know the solids are like 4x the price but I wonder if
>>hey live longer. I would think they'd be more accurate over the long term
>>due to no chain stretch.
>>Again, just thinking.


Personally I want one for my FE because of the awesome noise they make.
Big cam,headers,flowmasters and a gear drive ,I could sit in the garage
and listen to it idle for entertainment.

------------------------------

From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 22:15:49 EST
Subject: Re: Knock Knock! Who's (or what's) there?

Might try checking the pulleys for binding beaarings or mis alignment of
pulleys.  Primarily the power steering pulley.


....


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