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Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 23:08:53 -0500 (EST)
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61-79-list Digest Tue, 05 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 359

In This Issue:
Re: What is it ?
Re: What is it ?
Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
New truck in the stable
Wheel studs
Re: What is it ?
Re: 65 engine ID
Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Re: What is it ?
Re: Satsuma
What "year" IS it ?
Re: Re-using wheel studs?
Re: What "year" IS it ?
Re: Wheel studs
Re: Wheel studs
Re: What "year" IS it ?1969
Re: What "year" IS it ?
What year IS it........ 1969 ?
Re: What year IS it........ 1969 ?
c6 tranny - divorced tcase
ADMIN: New FTE search feature
Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Hub Caps and Paint
Re: 65 engine ID
Re: 79 400, how far gone????

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 18:53:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What is it ?


At 09:55 PM 04:12:2000 -0800, Michael wrote:

>A database using MS Works can be created from all those saved receipts. Part
>numbers and waranty info are real handy when something fails in the future.
>The time spent creating such a database for your vehicle could save you the
>troubles of tracking down that hard to find part for a second time!

Thats all fine and dandy, but do you expect to have all that
info after the evil empire's operating system comes up one
day with the "Blue Screen Of Death" saying "No Operating
System Was Found"???

Put it in a binder, if you sell the truck, you can hand the binder
to the guy/gal who buys it...

Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer...
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

From: "Michael" <danger csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: What is it ?
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 22:04:08 -0800


> >A database using MS Works can be created from all those saved receipts.
Part
> >numbers and waranty info are real handy when something fails in the
future.
> >The time spent creating such a database for your vehicle could save you
the
> >troubles of tracking down that hard to find part for a second time!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Thats all fine and dandy, but do you expect to have all that
> info after the evil empire's operating system comes up one
> day with the "Blue Screen Of Death" saying "No Operating
> System Was Found"???
>
>  Put it in a binder, if you sell the truck, you can hand the binder
> to the guy/gal who buys it...
>
> Steve & the Rockette
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yes it is wise to keep printed material. It probably wouldn't hurt to put
the database pages inside a folder, but I just stapled them together and put
them inside large ziplocks with the receipts. If I sell either truck, I can
give the new owner all receipts for that truck and a nicely organized
database printout.

The following 5 items are useful in the database.

1) Date Purchased
2) Company Name
3) Part Number
4) Description
5) Cost

Michael
69 F250 390 4V, T18, 3.54 LS
69 F250 390 4V, C6, 4.11
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.csolutions.net/myth/ford/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



------------------------------

From: "Dennis Smith" <hdennissmith earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 00:14:14 -0500



Dear List,

This is my third posting related to the engine missing in my
1978 F150-400.
Many thanks to those who have responded to my earlier postings.

The problem was and continues to be a severe miss at low idle.

Initially I had the plugs, wires, etc. replaced.  No improvement.

My mechanic found a vacuum leak between the intake manifold
and the carburator which necessitated replacing the intake
manifold.

Based upon input from the list and my mechanic's recommendation,
I had him install an Edelbrock Performer manifold and an Edelbrock
4V 600CFM Carburator W/Electric Choke.  It now has lots more pep
but didn't fix the skip. :-(

The two rear cylinders are still firing so poorly that
pulling/crossing those two plug wires has little or no effect
at idle.

He has looked without success for additional vacuum leaks so the
latest theory is that I may have slightly burned exhaust valves
on those cylinders.  The next step being to pull the heads and
check out the valves.  He then suggests that once we get that far,
I should go ahead and replace the timing chain.  This sounds
reasonable but the project is starting to run into a fair amount
of money.  I'm wondering what else I should plan to do while he is
in there in order to save money later and what ekse can I do to be
as sure as possible that this  will really fix the problem.

As I mentioned in my first post, the compression seems to be
pretty good.

    #4 145 lb                  #8 145 lb
    #3 140 lb                  #7 140 lb
    #2 135 lb                  #6 145 lb
    #1 140 lb                  #5 140 lb

A vacuum gauge shows only about 17" and the mechanic says that
it should be reading about 22".

From the first the valves were suspect but how does that square
with the compression test?

The truck has dual exhausts and the sounds at the tailpipes
are about the same on both sides.  Why would valves, cam lobes
or anything else affect both rear cylinders evenly?  I could
understand how a vacuum leak between the carburator and the intake
manifold could affect both sides so now it looks like whatever
is wrong must be a result of the earlier problem?

The truck has only about 95,000 miles and is in excellent condition
otherwise so I want to keep it up and drive it for many more years.

Thanks again to all who have responded.  I had hoped to give a report
today on how good everything had turned out but it just wasn't meant to be.

Sincerely,

Dennis Smith


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 06:44:21 -0600
From: Steve Schaefer <schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: New truck in the stable



Good morning all,
Thought I had too share with everyone, there is a "new" truck in the
stable.  SWMBO and I bought a 1979 Bronco.  It has cruise, intermittent
wipers, 351M, auto, and an 8' Western plow.  The body will need some
work next spring (wheel lips, bottom of the gate, and a bit of surface
rust in the door jamb.  The rear window doesn't work (agian something
for spring).  I need to find a new front seat soon.  The guy stated that
the milage is true at 98,000 miles.  The best part, I scored the whole
thing for $1000 out the door.  The plow is for sale.  The wife is very
happy with the truck, altho I did get smacked becuase she is starting to
think like me :>).

Steve S.
54 F-100
76 F-350 Crew cab
77 F-250 Supercab
79 Bronco
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Wheel studs
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 07:40:59 -0600

Eric F. writes:  >>Azie says no but Ox
says yes since there aren't any new ones that fit right?  If I find a way
to press out the studs then can I reuse them?  Does pounding them out with
a BFH do something to harm the structure of the metal?  <<

I said not to reuse them if you pounded them out...  If you press them out
there will not be a problem reusing them.  I've never had the experience
Ox relates to.  I''ve replaced bunches of them over the years.  My Son currently
is driving around in a '79 F350 that we changed all the wheel studs in and
no problems.. Don't know if pounding them out causes any stress or harms
the structure or not, I just would not think the studs to be as safe.  Seems
as if I remember something about shock changing the molecular structure
of metal somewhere back in school toooo many years ago.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 15:26:46 GMT
Subject: Re: What is it ?


>Thats all fine and dandy, but do you expect to have all that
>info after the evil empire's operating system comes up one
>day with the "Blue Screen Of Death" saying "No Operating
>System Was Found"???
>

Geeze, everyone knows if you get a blue screen of death (BSOD) then the operating
system is already loaded ... ;)

So far our favorite errors of the semester are :

Missing OS ...  (at which point it just sits there and waits to be re-imaged)

And, on a warranty repaired HP :   No Operating System Found
Problem it was supposed to fix :  No Operating System Found error even when
booting from a floppy!

Guess they really fixed it huh ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 09:42:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Brett Habben <bhabben juno.com>
Subject: Re: 65 engine ID


Eric,
OK. I'll move that piece of info into the 'myth' category.  Has anybody put
together a list of exactly what pieces are needed to turn a 240 into a 300?
I know you have to have the 300 crank, rods, and pistons. I know that the
240 heads have smaller combustion chambers, but that may be what you want.
The timing gear set may have a different tooth count, but could you use the
240 crank gear on the 300 crank?  What else?
Brett
>From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
>Intake manifold is exactly the same dimensions on everything, I >have both
>so..... :)
>
>>Kourtney,
>>Have you gotten to the bottom of this mystery yet? Does >>anybody remember
if
>>the 240 intake manifold casting is physically smaller than the >>300
intake?
>>Brett




------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 07:14:08 -0800



>
> Dear List,
>
> This is my third posting related to the engine missing in my
> 1978 F150-400.
> Many thanks to those who have responded to my earlier postings.
>
> The problem was and continues to be a severe miss at low idle.
>
> Initially I had the plugs, wires, etc. replaced.  No improvement.
>
> My mechanic found a vacuum leak between the intake manifold
> and the carburator which necessitated replacing the intake
> manifold.
>
> Based upon input from the list and my mechanic's recommendation,
> I had him install an Edelbrock Performer manifold and an Edelbrock
> 4V 600CFM Carburator W/Electric Choke.  It now has lots more pep
> but didn't fix the skip. :-(
>
> The two rear cylinders are still firing so poorly that
> pulling/crossing those two plug wires has little or no effect
> at idle.
>
> He has looked without success for additional vacuum leaks so the
> latest theory is that I may have slightly burned exhaust valves
> on those cylinders.  The next step being to pull the heads and
> check out the valves.  He then suggests that once we get that far,
> I should go ahead and replace the timing chain.  This sounds
> reasonable but the project is starting to run into a fair amount
> of money.  I'm wondering what else I should plan to do while he is
> in there in order to save money later and what ekse can I do to be
> as sure as possible that this  will really fix the problem.
>
> As I mentioned in my first post, the compression seems to be
> pretty good.
>
>      #4 145 lb                  #8 145 lb
>      #3 140 lb                  #7 140 lb
>      #2 135 lb                  #6 145 lb
>      #1 140 lb                  #5 140 lb
>
> A vacuum gauge shows only about 17" and the mechanic says that
> it should be reading about 22".
>
> From the first the valves were suspect but how does that square
> with the compression test?
>
> The truck has dual exhausts and the sounds at the tailpipes
> are about the same on both sides.  Why would valves, cam lobes
> or anything else affect both rear cylinders evenly?  I could
> understand how a vacuum leak between the carburator and the intake
> manifold could affect both sides so now it looks like whatever
> is wrong must be a result of the earlier problem?
>
> The truck has only about 95,000 miles and is in excellent condition
> otherwise so I want to keep it up and drive it for many more years.
>
> Thanks again to all who have responded.  I had hoped to give a report
> today on how good everything had turned out but it just
> wasn't meant to be.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Dennis Smith
>

Ask to have a leak down test performed on the engine.  It is similar to a
compression test but the engine is not running.  A cylinder is pressurized
from an air compressor with a special fitting with a pressure guage on it.
You can then check the percentage of leakage on each cylinder.  You can also
try to isolate the problem, bubbles in the coolant -- leaking head/cracked
cylinder; Hissing coming from the carb-- bad intake valve;  Hissing in
exhaust-- bad exhaust valve.

Tom H.

PS I forget, have you pulled the valve covers and checked that all the
valves are moving about the same amount?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 09:36:12 -0600
Subject: Re: What is it ?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Yes it is wise to keep printed material. It probably wouldn't hurt to put
> the database pages inside a folder, but I just stapled them together and put
> them inside large ziplocks with the receipts. If I sell either truck, I can
> give the new owner all receipts for that truck and a nicely organized
> database printout.
>
> The following 5 items are useful in the database.
>
> 1) Date Purchased
> 2) Company Name
> 3) Part Number
> 4) Description
> 5) Cost

Actually you need both the printed receipt from the store and the
database/spreadsheet. Several of my receipts have become blank sheets of
paper over the years. I have no clue what they go to. I also keep a 3x5
spiral log book in the glove box. I record all maintenance, repairs, and
fuel.

It's great to be back. 224 e-mails this morning. Whew!!

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 09:48:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Re-using wheel studs?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


>> Ok now which is it?  Can I reuse the studs or not?
>
> Yes, I've pounded them out with a BFH only about 50 times in the past 7
> years and never bought new studs, never had a problem. It also helps to
> put them back in the same hole they came out, cause sometimes a stud may
> be snug in one hole, but loose in it's neighbors hole :-)

What really weakens when you pound out a stud is the threads where the nut
is sitting while you are pounding. The nut sits way farther down the shank
when holding the wheel on so this is usually not a problem. If the stud
doesn't fit snug in the hub, it may fall out during assembly, but it should
hold the wheel on if you ever get it together. Studs are pretty cheap, I'd
get new ones if possible. Pounding also increases the possibility of
breaking the hub. Guess. Yep, BTDT.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 09:51:24 -0600
Subject: FW: ps leak
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


I'll try this again. It is a reply from before the upgrade.


>>Is it ok to use Teflon tape on the threads of power steering fittings?
>>(I've got a leaky fitting on the pump)
>
The tape shouldn't be a problem, but chances are the leak is in the big
o-ring between the reservoir and the housing. Whatever you do, don't try
torquing down the fitting on the pump until the hose won't turn. The
hose is> supposed to turn. You just need to get it tight enough so that it
won't fall out of the pump from vibration.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Art & Jeanne Irvin" <edgewood12 home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 11:00:24 -0500



>
> >
> > Dear List,
> >
> > This is my third posting related to the engine missing in my
> > 1978 F150-400.
> > Many thanks to those who have responded to my earlier postings.
> >
> > The problem was and continues to be a severe miss at low idle.
> >
> > Initially I had the plugs, wires, etc. replaced.  No improvement.
> >
> > My mechanic found a vacuum leak between the intake manifold
> > and the carburator which necessitated replacing the intake
> > manifold.
> >
> > Based upon input from the list and my mechanic's recommendation,
> > I had him install an Edelbrock Performer manifold and an Edelbrock
> > 4V 600CFM Carburator W/Electric Choke.  It now has lots more pep
> > but didn't fix the skip. :-(
> >
> > The two rear cylinders are still firing so poorly that
> > pulling/crossing those two plug wires has little or no effect
> > at idle.
> >
> > He has looked without success for additional vacuum leaks so the
> > latest theory is that I may have slightly burned exhaust valves
> > on those cylinders.  The next step being to pull the heads and
> > check out the valves.  He then suggests that once we get that far,
> > I should go ahead and replace the timing chain.  This sounds
> > reasonable but the project is starting to run into a fair amount
> > of money.  I'm wondering what else I should plan to do while he is
> > in there in order to save money later and what ekse can I do to be
> > as sure as possible that this  will really fix the problem.
> >

Also Make absolutely certain the vacuum lines go where they should. I had
this trouble once with SWMBO's Bronco. Incorrectly run vacuum lines. Put
them as the decal on front frame and everything smoothed right out.

Just my 2cents
Art


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: What is it ?
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 08:17:59 -0800


I scan the important receipts on my scanner.  I'll print out a copy and save
a copy on my machine.  The thermal paper and inks most receipts are printed
on/with these days have a tendency to fade and you can't read them any
longer...

Wonder if they do that on purpose?!?

-----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone [mailto:jlagrone ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 7:36 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: What is it ?



> Yes it is wise to keep printed material. It probably wouldn't hurt to put
> the database pages inside a folder, but I just stapled them together and
put
> them inside large ziplocks with the receipts. If I sell either truck, I
can
> give the new owner all receipts for that truck and a nicely organized
> database printout.
>
> The following 5 items are useful in the database.
>
> 1) Date Purchased
> 2) Company Name
> 3) Part Number
> 4) Description
> 5) Cost

Actually you need both the printed receipt from the store and the
database/spreadsheet. Several of my receipts have become blank sheets of
paper over the years. I have no clue what they go to. I also keep a 3x5
spiral log book in the glove box. I record all maintenance, repairs, and
fuel.

It's great to be back. 224 e-mails this morning. Whew!!

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Marty" <marty copelandoil.com>
Subject: Re: Satsuma
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 11:17:38 -0600


Azie,
Satsuma is about 5 min. north of Mobile on I-65.

Marty Copeland
79 Ranger XLT
351M~C6,203~Dana 44 (stock)~9"Limited Slip,3.55~33"
460 waiting for a rebuild
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=92
Where The Pavement Ends 4wheelin Begins





From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Satsuma
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 21:25:38 -0600

Marty C. writes:  >>My name is Marty Copeland I live in Satsuma,Al. <<

OK Marty..  I'm an old man - lived in Alabama all my adult life and have no
idea where Satsuma is, so tell me..
Ardmore is on the Tennessee State line and 2 miles East of I-65.  All 3500
or so of us.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 13:15:23 -0500
Subject: What "year" IS it ?


Thanx everybody for the tips.  I'm going to contact my states DMV and the
local state police post to get their take on this today. There are
several "cars" running around here on Blazer & Bronco chassis, so I know
there are rule's of some kind. ( I'm in Indiana by the way and it's an
1980 3/4 ton chassis )   Being an 80 I know it's wider, with slightly
longer wheelbase, (128"vs133") but that's not a big deal at this point.
  About that data base, I've been keeping kind of a journal anyway all
through this project, since it's taken so long.  I listed all the
different parts sources, junk yard finds, etc.  Along with a fairly
detailed explanation of what was done.  Mostly so that if I had a long
pause in this project (and there's been several) I could remember what it
was I was doing.  You know what they say about memory!   I'll get back
with you all after I find out the particulars.  I can't even get over to
look at this thing till Thurs. and it'll probably be long gone.
        Thanx, Phil  (64 F-???)


________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 13:20:57 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Re-using wheel studs?


John LaGrone wrote:
>
> >> Ok now which is it?  Can I reuse the studs or not?
> >
> > Yes, I've pounded them out with a BFH only about 50 times in the past 7
> > years and never bought new studs, never had a problem. It also helps to
> > put them back in the same hole they came out, cause sometimes a stud may
> > be snug in one hole, but loose in it's neighbors hole :-)
>
> What really weakens when you pound out a stud is the threads where the nut
> is sitting while you are pounding.

I don't use a nut, I use an old stud, flipped upside down pounded
against the offending stud :-). Most studs have metal that sticks out
either slightly or substantially (depending upon type of stud) past the
first thread. Using another stud moves your impact point higher making
it less likely you wil hit (and dent) another part of the hub.

The nut sits way farther down the shank
> when holding the wheel on so this is usually not a problem. If the stud
> doesn't fit snug in the hub, it may fall out during assembly, but it should
> hold the wheel on if you ever get it together.

May never get lug off ever again though is it loosens back up :-). I
don't recommend assembly with a loose stud.

Studs are pretty cheap, I'd
> get new ones if possible. Pounding also increases the possibility of
> breaking the hub. Guess. Yep, BTDT.

Breaking the hub??? I've hit them square in all sorts of places
(usually right where axle meets hub, a really bad spot :-)) with a
pretty good hammer blow. I'd like to see pics of one broken from hitting
it. I'd guess it's pretty rare.

                               OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 10:34:57 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: What "year" IS it ?


>Thanx everybody for the tips.  I'm going to contact my states DMV and the
>local state police post to get their take on this today. There are
>several "cars" running around here on Blazer & Bronco chassis, so I know
>there are rule's of some kind.


Just remember your questions are all theoretical when talking to the
DMZ.  What would happen if... kind of questions.  Almost happened to
me one time asked a question about a vehicle at the DMZ and they
almost put a big red flag on it.  That's what if the tags were 5
years late.  Not they are 5 years late....  ;-)
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 13:46:45 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel studs




"Azie L. Magnusson" wrote:
>
> Eric F. writes:  >>Azie says no but Ox
> says yes since there aren't any new ones that fit right?  If I find a way
> to press out the studs then can I reuse them?  Does pounding them out with
> a BFH do something to harm the structure of the metal?  <<
>
> I said not to reuse them if you pounded them out...  If you press them out
> there will not be a problem reusing them.  I've never had the experience
> Ox relates to.  I''ve replaced bunches of them over the years.  My Son currently
> is driving around in a '79 F350 that we changed all the wheel studs in and
> no problems..

Got a manufacturer and/or PN for those? I know another guy in north
jersey thats had 20-30, 70's trucks and he has not been able to find the
correct studs either. Maybe it's regional thing. I'd love to be able to
find one's that work.


                                  OX

--
78 Bronco Custom, 400, T-18, 14 bolt/detroit/4.56, D60/detroit/4.56, 44
boggers, 9" lift (27 54.5678498576476596875869 (street), 17 56 (4"
mud), never 0 (17" mud)).
79 Bronco XLT, 351M, C6, D60/detroit/4.10, D448lug/Lokrite/4.10, 38.5
SX's, 4"lift (It's so fast, I tore the axles right out of it).
79 Bronc XLT, 351M, C6, 35 BFG AT's, 2" lift (19.3 40, pulling boat,
19.3 40, not puling boat)
86 Capri, turbo 5.0 (13.4 107)
90 Talon AWD turbo (12.7 104)
95 F250-460,4WD (16.9 82)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 12:55:44 -0600
Subject: Re: What "year" IS it ?
From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>


> Just remember your questions are all theoretical when talking to the
> DMZ.  What would happen if... kind of questions.  Almost happened to
> me one time asked a question about a vehicle at the DMZ and they
> almost put a big red flag on it.  That's what if the tags were 5
> years late.  Not they are 5 years late....

Excellent point. In TX they always ask you "Is the truck here?" Of course
if the plates are one day past due they hit you with a fine for driving on
expired plates. The answer is always "No, I'm driving my wife's car. It is
illegal to operate on the street without current registration." They even
asked me this when I traded my handicap placard for a set of plates on
Henry. The clerk was going to fine me and I told her to check that year
again darling, I just renewed those last month. She turned red as a beet.
Now that was a surprise.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com     <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 10:59:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel studs


I'll second that request.  If you've got it I'll go look for them this
weekend and report back on their usability with my new F-350 drums I've
got sitting at home in my kitchen.  I know, <GRIN> they seat in the studs,
but my wife is anxious for me to get my collection of UPS boxes holding
parts out of the kitchen.

Later,
Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project stalled)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"

--- James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com> wrote:
> "Azie L. Magnusson" wrote:
> I''ve replaced bunches of them over the years.  My Son
> currently
> > is driving around in a '79 F350 that we changed all the wheel studs in
> and
> > no problems..
>
>  Got a manufacturer and/or PN for those? I know another guy in north
> jersey thats had 20-30, 70's trucks and he has not been able to find the
> correct studs either. Maybe it's regional thing. I'd love to be able to
> find one's that work.



__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 11:17:45 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: What "year" IS it ?1969





>
> Just remember your questions are all theoretical when talking to the
> DMZ.

I got drunk once in a '67 Ford 4WD on a beach near the DMZ...found out
the hard way the transfer case was gone...

------------------------------

From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 16:02:28 -0500
Subject: Re: What "year" IS it ?


Well- I just talked to the Indiana State police and they said as far as
they were concerned it would still be a 64. As long as I could prove
ownership on both trucks when I get plates. Phil
________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: oldfords63 juno.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 15:59:10 -0500
Subject: What year IS it........ 1969 ?


Dennis, Dennis, wake up. I think your on the wrong continent!  Come with
us, it's 2000. Your at your local DMV, and your trying to explain that
Cadillac............................
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dennis Pearson  writes:
> I got drunk once in a '67 Ford 4WD on a beach near the DMZ... found
out the hard way the transfer case was gone.... >

________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 13:39:01 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson <dpearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: What year IS it........ 1969 ?


Thanks, man, I needed that...

oldfords63 juno.com wrote:
>
> Dennis, Dennis, wake up. I think your on the wrong continent!  Come with
> us, it's 2000. Your at your local DMV, and your trying to explain that
> Cadillac............................
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>  Dennis Pearson  writes:
> > I got drunk once in a '67 Ford 4WD on a beach near the DMZ... found
> out the hard way the transfer case was gone.... >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 14:13:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Brett Yerks <byerks yahoo.com>
Subject: c6 tranny - divorced tcase


I have the opportunity to pick up a c6 out of a 73 LTD
for fairly cheap.  It seems I could put that in my 76
F250 very easily because the tcase is divorce mounted,
I would just have to fab up a very short driveshaft
and use the correct slip yoke.  I know the bolt
pattern is correct for my application.  Anyone see any
other possible problems with that?

Thanks!
Brett
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=767


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 2000 18:38:44 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: New FTE search feature


Check out:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/search/phod.php3

Its a new search feature of FTE that allows you to do an
Open Directory search of the entire Internet.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: "craig sharp" <csharp29 home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine missing - 1978  400  (Update #2)
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 20:03:18 -0500


It seems that you are going to chase a lot of nit-pickin' stuff to track
this down. You can test for vacuum leaks around the manifold using WD-40,
or, if you're courageous, ether. The idle will pick up if you have a leak
that is bad enough to cause a miss. You just have to make sure that the
spray isn't going into the carb.

If you have a burnt valve (even a slight one) you can find this out by
running a compression test that puts pressure in to the cylinder and holds
it. If the pressure drops, you have a valve that's leaking. A standard
compression test won't tell you this.

You can have a miss on idle that's caused by weak valve springs. You won't
notice the miss that you're still having at higher rpm's until you try drag
racing.

You can have a crack in the distributor cap. Take a look at the engine in
the dark while running. It's best to check this before you try the ether.

And the least popular of all, messed up idle (um.. the word escapes me right
now... but it's all the little channels in the carb that put in gas while
you're on idle) thingy on your carb.

Please excuse me if you have heard all this stuff before.

Craig


------------------------------

From: "Daniel Beiers" <dbeiers rmpprestress.com>
Subject: Hub Caps and Paint
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 18:16:05 -0700



I am looking for hub caps like the ones on this truck (which is awesome
btw).  Anyone know where I can find some?

http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1968_f250_4.html

Also, my 67 pickup is currently a dark metallic blue color.  It appears to
be original as it is the dash color.  Does anyone know what this color was
called and if someone makes it or can reproduce it?  Also, did this ever
come in a 2 tone combination?

Thanks a lot

Dan


------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: 65 engine ID
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 20:06:23 -0600


Tomorrow I can count and measure everything on the 300, I have it apart
right now. I thought the only thing that was different was the crankshaft
(excluding HD models).

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Brett Habben
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 8:43 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 65 engine ID


Eric,
OK. I'll move that piece of info into the 'myth' category.  Has anybody put
together a list of exactly what pieces are needed to turn a 240 into a 300?
I know you have to have the 300 crank, rods, and pistons. I know that the
240 heads have smaller combustion chambers, but that may be what you want.
The timing gear set may have a different tooth count, but could you use the
240 crank gear on the 300 crank?  What else?
Brett
>From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
>Intake manifold is exactly the same dimensions on everything, I >have both
>so..... :)
>
>>Kourtney,
>>Have you gotten to the bottom of this mystery yet? Does >>anybody remember
if
>>the 240 intake manifold casting is physically smaller than the >>300
intake?
>>Brett






------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2000 22:06:28 EST
Subject: Re: 79 400, how far gone????

Dave

Thanks for the input. You've basically confirmed my hunches. Guess I'll find
out for sure once I tear into it. Good part is I've got time on my side now
that I have a "spare" 400 (and c6 for that fact).

Also thanks for the notes on the head shaving. I hadn't worked out the math
(still haven't, time crunch & all). I'm still not a real fan of machine work
like that and would rather conserve the cast iron for those times when it
must be removed. It was a thought rather than going into the block with
piston changes etc.

One more question if I may, any comments on a solid timing gear set vs the
gear and chain setup? I know the solids are like 4x the price but I wonder if
they live longer. I would think they'd be more accurate over the long term
due to no chain stretch. Again, just thinking. My pocket book will probably
win out over my dreams anyway!

Thanks allot for your thoughts.

George M in Fl.


In a message dated 12/05/00 9:30:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Dave.Resch sybase.com writes:


> >From: GMontgo930 aol.com
> >
> >I've got a 79 400 (from a Bronco) that while
> >driving, bent a pushrod and ejected a lifter
> >from it's bore (#2 Intake). I did have to nurse
> >it a few miles to get to civilization (the local
> >parts store) for a replacement pushrod while
> >the pressure read 0 on the gauge.
> >
> >It then got me another 250 miles home, though
> >the top end was  clattering like crazy and the
> >oil pressure read 0 the whole way.
> >
> >My question is, just how far do yall think things
> >went during it's torture test? Im figuring Cam,
> >Main & Rod Bearings at least.
>
> Yo George:
>
> As you suspect, the bearings you mention are likely toasted.  I would also
> be
> concerned about the journals that ride in those bearings (i.e., crankshaft
> and
> camshaft).  I would expect that w/ little or no oil pressure, not only
> would the
> cam bearing journals be suspect, but the lobes might be worn out as well.
> Given
> the cost of having the cam checked for excessive wear on journals and
> lobes, I
> think you'd be better off scrapping the cam and starting over.
>
> >and how about rockers?
>
> I have the same concerns.  I'd examine all the wear surfaces very closely
> for
> any signs of excess wear or galling.
>
> >What I'd really like to do is salvage the heads
> >for my current 400 as they were fairly fresh (head
> >job about 20k ago). But I was thinking about having
> >them milled a bit to up the CR from <8.0 to about
> >9.??:1 or so. That and another good cam should
> >really wake up what Ive got now.
>
> Heads should be ok.  Just to be safe, you could check the valve guides for ....


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