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61-79-list Digest Sat, 02 Dec 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 356

In This Issue:
Re: T-case for 292 w/ three speed
Re: 79 Bronco tilt steering
Re: 79 Bronco tilt steering
Engine ID on door (car)
MiG flux-core
79 Bronco vs 79 F150
Re: Engine ID on door (car)
Re: 79 Bronco vs 79 F150
Re: 79 Bronco vs 79 F150
Re: T-case for 292 w/ three speed
Re: MiG flux-core
Re: MiG flux-core
Re: T-case for 292 w/ three speed
ADMIN: FTE Pictorial Additions
Re: Comparable chevy listservice like this excellent one?
Let the welding begin
Re: [New 67 F250 Trip]
follow-up on clutch replacement and new question
Re: follow-up on clutch replacement and new question
Body Parts on Late '70's
Re: Body Parts on Late '70's
Re: Let the welding begin
Re: [Re: follow-up on clutch replacement and new question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: sandrat ford-trucks.net
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 03:11:11 GMT
Subject: Re: T-case for 292 w/ three speed


>Go with a 4 speed and a 205.  They are pretty inexpensive and >easy to come
by.
>Jason

What 4 spds work w/ a 64 292?


Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 21:10:14 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Bronco tilt steering




GMontgo930 aol.com wrote:
>
> Charles
>
> I'd assume it would work fine as a 79 Bronco has allot in common with the
> same years F series. But - since Ive never persnally swaped one in, I will
> bow to any who may say otherwise.
>

I would not hesitate to use a 150 col. in a bronco or vice versa. I
can't see any difference between broncs and F150's (78/79's that is)
from the doors forward in any respect, including body, frame, and susp.

                               OX

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 21:20:15 EST
Subject: Re: 79 Bronco tilt steering

Just a lil FWI Dad has a 79 Bronco column in his 75 F-250.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: "NP 540" <np540 hotmail.com>
Subject: Engine ID on door (car)
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 03:12:26


Hi everybody!

Since all this discusions about engine IDs, maybe somebody could
help me understand a "mystery" that I saw over 10 years ago:
I was looking for a set of 289 heads to put on a 302 for higher
compression, to swap into a Pinto (my dream: still not completed,
but working on it little by little with little $$$....). Anyway,
I was in this minuscule junkyard, and there was a 1964 Mercury
Comet station-wagon 4-doors with a V8 in there, of course surrended
by at least 6 cars around and on top of it. Took me 3 days to
hacksaw, hammer, cold-chisel, and axing to get at that engine.
Yep, had to cut the car in half, and NO POWER TOOLS to help, all
muscle-power... "Safari-hunting" at its best indeed!  =)
And upon checking my "prey", I noted that the data-plate on the
original door, engine-code was letter K... Like in hi-po 289...
Those heads didn't stay on that engine very long. Still have them,
matter of fact. But upon checking them at home that evening, they
turned-out to be 260, not 289. My question is, could a 289 hi-po
engine could have been factory-installed in a 1964 Mercury Comet
4-door station-wagon? It was automatic transmission, 2-speed I think.
That car is long gone since, nothing left of it exept those heads
at my place. Kinda as a "trophy".....

FTE content: Today, I helped my neighbor drag a 1978 F-100 frame
to his place: spare parts for his 1978 F-150.

Many thanks!

Gerry
M-block "disciple"...
1978 F-150 SuperCab 4x4
1979 F-150 regular cab 4x4
The only Acadian on this list?




_____________________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "NP 540" <np540 hotmail.com>
Subject: MiG flux-core
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 03:23:37


Hi again!

Does somebody with welding experience here could shed some light
about flux-core wire for MiG welding? I remember about 1 or 2 years
ago in a street-rodder magazine that some company had developped some
flux-core wire SPECIFICALY for welding sheetmetal. I don't have a
MiG welder yet, but that is my next "toy" when money is gonna be
thicker in my humble leaking wallet. I'd much prefer to use
flux-core instead to have to use argon gaz mixtures, cheaper that way:
no argon gaz tanks to pay rent for. I know, you can use flux-core
for sheet metal, but I'd like to know witch brand is better for
sheetmetal.

Many thanks again!

Gerry
VIVE LE FORD!
1978 F-150 SuperCab 4x4
1979 F-150 regular cab 4x4
M-block "disciple"....
The only Acadian on this list?

_____________________________________________________________________________________
Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "Charles T." <charlest hal-pc.org>
Subject: 79 Bronco vs 79 F150
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 21:42:36 -0800

To the well of knowledge:
I know several things on these vehicles will interchange. But I'm not sure about the chrome trim...

Will the chrome trim on the side of the rear of a 79 Bronco fit on a 79 "swb" F150?  Or are the lengths different?

Charles
79 F150 4x4 (460 swap)
79 F150 2x4 (5.0)
95 Windstar (Go Wife Go)


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Engine ID on door (car)
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 23:31:48 -0500


if it was a late build date for 1964 it could have had one in it,but
probably would have to have been special ordered  that way. a quik check by
looking at the motor would be to see if it had an 1 7/8 "   harmonic
balancer  on it & if the distributor had no vaccuum advance  on it.
-----Original Message-----
From: NP 540 <np540 hotmail.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, December 02, 2000 10:22 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Engine ID on door (car)


>
>Hi everybody!
>
>Since all this discusions about engine IDs, maybe somebody could
>help me understand a "mystery" that I saw over 10 years ago:
>I was looking for a set of 289 heads to put on a 302 for higher
>compression, to swap into a Pinto (my dream: still not completed,
>but working on it little by little with little $$$....). Anyway,
>I was in this minuscule junkyard, and there was a 1964 Mercury
>Comet station-wagon 4-doors with a V8 in there, of course surrended
>by at least 6 cars around and on top of it. Took me 3 days to
>hacksaw, hammer, cold-chisel, and axing to get at that engine.
>Yep, had to cut the car in half, and NO POWER TOOLS to help, all
>muscle-power... "Safari-hunting" at its best indeed!  =)
>And upon checking my "prey", I noted that the data-plate on the
>original door, engine-code was letter K... Like in hi-po 289...
>Those heads didn't stay on that engine very long. Still have them,
>matter of fact. But upon checking them at home that evening, they
>turned-out to be 260, not 289. My question is, could a 289 hi-po
>engine could have been factory-installed in a 1964 Mercury Comet
>4-door station-wagon? It was automatic transmission, 2-speed I think.
>That car is long gone since, nothing left of it exept those heads
>at my place. Kinda as a "trophy".....
>
>FTE content: Today, I helped my neighbor drag a 1978 F-100 frame
>to his place: spare parts for his 1978 F-150.
>
>Many thanks!
>
>Gerry
>M-block "disciple"...
>1978 F-150 SuperCab 4x4
>1979 F-150 regular cab 4x4
>The only Acadian on this list?
>
>
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
__________
>Get more from the Web.  FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" <tim-pam williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Bronco vs 79 F150
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 23:33:33 -0500


I don't know that one either.  Got a tape measure ?????
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles T. <charlest hal-pc.org>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, December 02, 2000 11:05 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 79 Bronco vs 79 F150


>To the well of knowledge:
>I know several things on these vehicles will interchange. But I'm not sure
about the chrome trim...
>
>Will the chrome trim on the side of the rear of a 79 Bronco fit on a 79
"swb" F150?  Or are the lengths different?
>
>Charles
>79 F150 4x4 (460 swap)
>79 F150 2x4 (5.0)
>95 Windstar (Go Wife Go)
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Montana Mark" <big78ford home.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Bronco vs 79 F150
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 22:50:05 -0700


Charles,
The trim on the rear of the Bronco is shorter than the trim used on short
bed trucks.  I was at a junkyard one time and compared a piece of racetrack
trim with the one on my truck, about 6 inches shorter.

Montana Mark
1978 Ford F150 4x4  "The Great Pumpkin"
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.members.home.net/big78ford

> Will the chrome trim on the side of the rear of a 79 Bronco fit on a 79
"swb" F150?  Or are the lengths different?



------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: T-case for 292 w/ three speed
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2000 23:06:39 -0800


I have heard that that bellhousing between the Y and the FE are the same
(not for sure).  If you have a standard truck bellhousing (square) to trans
bolt pattern,  a NP435 should bolt up to it and you could use a married 205
case from a mid 70s F series.   You could also use a T98 2wd transmission
with a divorced transfer case, depending on the room you have for drivetrain
length.

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"



------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: MiG flux-core
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 02:18:56 -0600

I have never used flux-core myself, but I have heard it does not produce as good of welds as a true MIG setup will do.

But if there is some wire made specifically for sheetmetal, I am interested, as I still have plenty of sheetmetal to weld on my truck.

Garrett www.1966ford.com




 ----- Original Message -----
 From: NP 540
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 3:23 AM
 Subject: [61-79-list] MiG flux-core



 Hi again!

 Does somebody with welding experience here could shed some light
 about flux-core wire for MiG welding? I remember about 1 or 2 years
 ago in a street-rodder magazine that some company had developped some
 flux-core wire SPECIFICALY for welding sheetmetal. I don't have a
 MiG welder yet, but that is my next "toy" when money is gonna be
 thicker in my humble leaking wallet. I'd much prefer to use
 flux-core instead to have to use argon gaz mixtures, cheaper that way:
 no argon gaz tanks to pay rent for. I know, you can use flux-core
 for sheet metal, but I'd like to know witch brand is better for
 sheetmetal.

 Many thanks again!

 Gerry
 VIVE LE FORD!
 1978 F-150 SuperCab 4x4
 1979 F-150 regular cab 4x4
 M-block "disciple"....
 The only Acadian on this list?




------------------------------

From: "Doug Neely" <Doug_Neely telus.net>
Subject: Re: MiG flux-core
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 00:45:08 -0800


flux-core wire SPECIFICALY for welding sheetmetal. I don't have a


Gerry,
I haven't heard of this wire but I have used both gas and flux core, my
welder is a
Lincoln Sp- 170 T 220V. I found the .035 Linoln flux core seems to burn
through the
auto sheetmetal easier than the gas wire (.025), so requires more care when
welding.
When welding some cracks around the seat mounting bracket on my daughters
Mustang I started with flux core then switched to gas because of burn
through, then
I switched it back to flux to weld the exhaust up. As for the cost of the
gas, when I
bought my welder I also had the option of buying or leasing a bottle, the
bottle was only
$70 more than renting and when I need a refill I just take it back and they
give me
a full one for the cost of the refill, the bottle is a "Q" size, 1/4 the
size of the large ones.
I've found both wires have their benefits, gas for thinner metals, flux for
rusty, galvanized,
and heavier metals, for my money I'm glad my welder can do both,and the 220V
serves
two purposes, you get less voltage drop on heavy stock and nobody can borrow
it unless
they have a circuit and plug wired in:)  (downside is it's not portable for
field work). Hope
this helps.

                                                     Cheers,
                                                                 Doug



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 08:29:12 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: T-case for 292 w/ three speed


On the 64 the bellhousing is used as the rear engine mounts also.  64
and earlier use a different transmission pattern then the 65 and
later.  Here is my tail of swapping that I am in the middle of.

In my 63 I decided to upgrade the old T-98 to an NP 435 I have.
Seemed reasonable 4 speed out 4 speed in.  Wrong.  The first thing I
noticed that was different was the transmission to bellhousing
pattern is different and the size of the hole in the center is also
larger than the NP 435.  Ok no problem I have the bellhousing that
came with the NP 435 I can just change that out.  hmmm no mounts for
the rear of the engine so I need to make a crossmember at the tranny.
I can do that too no problem.  Oh, the splines on the input shafts
are different, and the input shaft on the NP 435 is also smaller.
Now to change out the clutch disk ( probably do complete clutch since
it is all apart).

I hope I can still use the starter and gear ring on the flywheel or I
will really be ticked.  This is not the time of year for me to be
dumping money in my truck if you know what I mean  :-(
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 11:42:56 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: FTE Pictorial Additions


The following pictorial additions have been made on the FTE
web site (www.ford-trucks.com):

1999 F-250 SuperDuty
1999 F-250 SuperDuty
1990 F-250
1979 F-250 4x4
1972 F-100 4x4
1967 F-250 4x4
1967 F-100
1965 F-100

Later,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: BRussAZ aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 12:04:19 EST
Subject: Re: Comparable chevy listservice like this excellent one?


This is an off the wall question and I probably will get flamed for it
but..is there a list as good as this one for chevy trucks??

Bill


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 12:26:57 -0500
From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Let the welding begin


In a month or so I need to begin the restoration of a special Torino. I have
done a lot of looking into Mig welders and finally chose the Miller
MILLERMATIC 130 XP MIG WELDER. I then found a listing for the
MILLER AUTO ARC XLT 135. I could not find any info on this machine
so I contacted miller. Here is the response:

the Auto Arc XLT135 is actually a Hobart Handler 135 branded with the Auto
Arc name.

My question is why would Miller rebrand a Hobart?

If any of you out there have either could you let me know. I am looking for
the best
welder for sheet metal work and not necessarily the least expensive.

Thanks for the help,
Bill


------------------------------

Date:  3 Dec 00 14:37:24 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: [New 67 F250 Trip]


Rodney,

Sounds like a nice inheritence.  I would bring a toolbox, a AAA card and a
cell phone (if you have one).  If the truck has been sitting for a long time a
new set of heater hoses and fan/ alternator belts might be a goood idea.
Those things get brittle and break at the most inconvenient moments (I know
that for a fact :o)).

Have fun and drive safe,

Ryan in SoCal

PS: the ride from Bend to Seattle should make for a nice scenery, too.


> I'm planning on picking up my inheritence in bend oregon. A 67 F-250 2 wheel
drive
> pickup. It has the original 352 and manual floor shift. I will be driving it
from bend oregon
> to seattle washington (about 340 miles). Is there anything I should check on
before making the long haul. I understand to check fluids and brakes and such.
I just need to know if I need to check anything else.
> I will be making the trip on sunday.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Rodney
> 67 F-250
> now the 3rd owner
>


____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date:  3 Dec 00 15:00:49 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: follow-up on clutch replacement and new question


Gary, Jeff, Marty, Garrett, and everybody else who provided input to my clutch
problem, thanks a bunch for your help.  I finished the job yesterday and
everything went fairly smooth.

Now here are the new questions:

1) My clutch pedal has about three or four inches of free play before it
activates the clutch.  I adjusted the adjustment rod between the clutch
linkage and the throwout lever (fork) to its maximum length and it still seems
to be too short.  The clutch works fine though, the shifts are smooth and the
clutch starts to engage only after I release the pedal about two inches.  The
only time the clutch makes a noise is when I'm in first gear and coast with a
depressed clutch (no clattering, just an even, slightly grinding noise).  Do I
need to replace the adjustable rod with a longer one or is my adjustment
fine?

2) When I re-installed the starter I forgot the gasket that was there when I
took it apart.  Is this actually a gasket or more like a spacer?  Do I need
it?  The starter works fine and if I don't need it... well, I'm rather lazy
than tired.

3) The rubber boot that went where the fork goes into the bellhousing is
trashed.  Where can I find a new one?  I haven't checked with my local Ford
dealer yet, I thought maybe somebody on the list might have another
suggestion.

Thanks as always,

Ryan
'77 F250

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: follow-up on clutch replacement and new question
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 18:32:37 -0600

If the clutch works fine, and you can shift smoothly, I would not worry about changing anything. The one thing I check when setting up a clutch is the air gap between the flywheel and the disc- I crawl underneath with the inspection cover off, and have someone push in the clutch pedal. Then I make sure I can spin the disc without any friction. I adjust the linkage so that it spins freely, but doesn't have too much gap.There is actually a spec that you are supposed to go by and set with a feeler gauge but the SWAG method has worked fine for me.

Do you mean it makes the noise with the pedal depressed, or in the normal position?

I don't have a gasket/spacer on my starter at all. What engine do you have? If the starter works fine, again I would not worry about it.

I also need to put on a new rubber boot someday, mine is barely hanging in there. I think Dennis carpenter has them. www.dennis-carpenter.com

Glad I could be of help to someone, usually it is the other way around!  :-)


Garrett www.1966ford.com






 ----- Original Message -----
 From: Ryan Sturz
 To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
 Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 5:00 PM
 Subject: [61-79-list] follow-up on clutch replacement and new question



 Gary, Jeff, Marty, Garrett, and everybody else who provided input to my clutch
 problem, thanks a bunch for your help.  I finished the job yesterday and
 everything went fairly smooth.

 Now here are the new questions:

 1) My clutch pedal has about three or four inches of free play before it
 activates the clutch.  I adjusted the adjustment rod between the clutch
 linkage and the throwout lever (fork) to its maximum length and it still seems
 to be too short.  The clutch works fine though, the shifts are smooth and the
 clutch starts to engage only after I release the pedal about two inches.  The
 only time the clutch makes a noise is when I'm in first gear and coast with a
 depressed clutch (no clattering, just an even, slightly grinding noise).  Do I
 need to replace the adjustable rod with a longer one or is my adjustment
 fine?

 2) When I re-installed the starter I forgot the gasket that was there when I
 took it apart.  Is this actually a gasket or more like a spacer?  Do I need
 it?  The starter works fine and if I don't need it... well, I'm rather lazy
 than tired.

 3) The rubber boot that went where the fork goes into the bellhousing is
 trashed.  Where can I find a new one?  I haven't checked with my local Ford
 dealer yet, I thought maybe somebody on the list might have another
 suggestion.

 Thanks as always,

 Ryan
 '77 F250



------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Body Parts on Late '70's
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 19:48:28 -0500


A general question for you all. While tearing apart the truck to replace
some panels a few pieces didn't survive. Will the plastic inner fender fit
from any late '70's truck and also the small plate that covers the front cab
corner? It's getting awfully cold to make a mistake when shopping at the
wreckers. Thanks.

John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 19:57:28 EST
Subject: Re: Body Parts on Late '70's

In a message dated 12/3/2000 4:50:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jwebster tnt21.com writes:


> A general question for you all. While tearing apart the truck to replace
> some panels a few pieces didn't survive. Will the plastic inner fender fit
> from any late '70's truck and also the small plate that covers the front cab
> corner? It's getting awfully cold to make a mistake when shopping at the
> wreckers. Thanks.
>

I believe the plastic will, and if your talkin about the cover for the
forward cab corners, that will definately fit.

Darrell & Tweety



------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 16:58:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Let the welding begin


At 12:26 PM 03:12:2000 -0500, William D. Poudrier wrote:
>
>In a month or so I need to begin the restoration of a special Torino. I have
>done a lot of looking into Mig welders and finally chose the Miller
>MILLERMATIC 130 XP MIG WELDER. I then found a listing for the
>MILLER AUTO ARC XLT 135. I could not find any info on this machine
>so I contacted miller. Here is the response:
>
>the Auto Arc XLT135 is actually a Hobart Handler 135 branded with the Auto
>Arc name.
>
>My question is why would Miller rebrand a Hobart?

Probably because  Miller doesn't built a 135 amp mig welder,
and tooling up for one would be more expensive than badge
engineering...

>If any of you out there have either could you let me know. I am looking for
>the best
>welder for sheet metal work and not necessarily the least expensive.

I do a considerable amount of welding with two different
amperage Hobart Handlers,  A Handler120,  and a Handler 150.
The 120Amp is a 120 volt unit, which I use for non-critical welding,
The 150 uses 240 volts, and will weld 1/4" in a single pass, if you're
really good.  One item of note on all mig welders that have a
selector for the thickness of material,  if you speed the wire feed
up, you don't get penatration into the base material as deep
as you might need...Like when welding a front suspension on,
and you've got a really pretty surface weld, and the first time
you hammer the brakes, you wind up with the rocker panels
sitting on the tires...don't laugh, I've seen it...


Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer...
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

Date:  3 Dec 00 18:11:25 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: follow-up on clutch replacement and new question


Hi Garrett,

I wasn't aware of any inspection cover when I did this.  I'll crawl under it
and look again (there is something like a dust shield on my '77 that goes
between the flywheel and the block and covers the lower half of the
bellhousing; I forgot to put it in at first and had to take the the whole mess
apart again just when I was about to re-install the bellhousing :o)).  The
noise occurs only with the pedal depressed and the transmission in first gear
while the truk is moving (not while it's standing still and not in any of the
other gears).  It's a grinding noise as if the disc were not properly
disengaged (which I know doesn't make sense because the engine should be
turning the flywheel even when the truck isn't moving).  Other than that,
everything works great and smooth.  Maybe it's just a syncro-thing in first.

I have verified that I have an M-block, I don't know what size it actually is.
Probably a 351.  I'll keep the spacer for the starter in the glove box in
case I run into problems or maybe I throw it back on when I'm really bored
sometime.

With the new clutch this is an entirely new driving experience.  With manual
everything this truck is clearly not for racing but even with 95.000 original
miles it seems to have plenty of low-end torque.  BTW, I did get the alignment
tool which IMO was worth the investment and I replaced the pilot bearing with
the roller type.

Thanks again,

Ryan
'77 F250

> If the clutch works fine, and you can shift smoothly, I would not worry
about changing anything. The one thing I check when setting up a clutch is the
air gap between the flywheel and the disc- I crawl underneath with the
inspection cover off, and have someone push in the clutch pedal. Then I make
sure I can spin the disc without any friction. I adjust the linkage so that it
spins freely, but doesn't have too much gap.There is actually a spec that you
are supposed to go by and set with a feeler gauge but the SWAG method has
worked fine for me.
>
> Do you mean it makes the noise with the pedal depressed, or in the normal
position?
>
> I don't have a gasket/spacer on my starter at all. What engine do you have?
If the starter works fine, again I would not worry about it.
>
> I also need to put on a new rubber boot someday, mine is barely hanging in
there. I think Dennis carpenter has them. www.dennis-carpenter.com
>
> Glad I could be of help to someone, usually it is the other way around!
:-)
>
>
> Garrett www.1966ford.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Ryan Sturz
>   To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>   Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 5:00 PM
>   Subject: [61-79-list] follow-up on clutch replacement and new question
>
>
>
>   Gary, Jeff, Marty, Garrett, and everybody else who provided input to my
clutch
>   problem, thanks a bunch for your help.  I finished the job yesterday and
>   everything went fairly smooth.
>
>   Now here are the new questions:
>
>   1) My clutch pedal has about three or four inches of free play before it
>   activates the clutch.  I adjusted the adjustment rod between the clutch
>   linkage and the throwout lever (fork) to its maximum length and it still
seems
>   to be too short.  The clutch works fine though, the shifts are smooth and
the
>   clutch starts to engage only after I release the pedal about two inches.
The
>   only time the clutch makes a noise is when I'm in first gear and coast
with a
>   depressed clutch (no clattering, just an even, slightly grinding noise).
Do I
>   need to replace the adjustable rod with a longer one or is my adjustment
>   fine?
>
>   2) When I re-installed the starter I forgot the gasket that was there when
I
>   took it apart.  Is this actually a gasket or more like a spacer?  Do I
need
>   it?  The starter works fine and if I don't need it... well, I'm rather
lazy
>   than tired.
>
>   3) The rubber boot that went where the fork goes into the bellhousing is
>   trashed.  Where can I find a new one?  I haven't checked with my local ....


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