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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Mon, 27 Nov 2000 12:07:19 -0500 (EST)
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 12:07:19 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #350 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Sun, 26 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 350 In This Issue: Re: D9VE- Head question Re: 79 Bronco drive shaft Question Re: alum welding Re: 81 1-ton engine Re: paint questions Re: 351 HELP Re: Subject: Looking for 351 info!!! Re: Looking for 351 info!!! re 67-72 F-100 and F-500 cabs interchange? Re: 351 HELP Re: Looking for 351 info!!! Re: 65 Econoline P/U Re: wheels Re: 65 Econoline P/U Re: wheels Re: alum welding Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... Retrospective Thanks: starter problem Re: Engine Assembly Problems- Advice? Re: Engine Assembly Problems- Advice? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jason and Kathy" <kendrick mddc.com>
Subject: Re: D9VE- Head question Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 21:39:54 -0600 Bob wrote: > Because D means "seventies" right? Yes And you're saying the D0 is low > compression? No. The C9 and DO castings are high compression units. D9 heads would be low compression units. Jason Kendrick ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 22:42:26 -0500 From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Bronco drive shaft Question Bob wrote: > > Anyone know if the rear drive shaft from a 79 Bronco will fit the front end, > baring the length of course. (I know the drive shaft will have to be > shortened) I'm trying to get the front drive shaft to drop down over the > C6's cross member, and I was hoping the dual cardigan might give me the > extra length needed before the drop down to the axle. > It should fit, only thing might be a 1310 joint on D44 flange. I know 78's were all 1310's for driveshafts and 79's should be all 1330, but I seem to remember a 1310/1330 combo joint on some 79 front diff's U's, might have been early 79's. Front shafts should be CV already though. I got a HD shaft from six states a while ago that had very HD, small dia tube to help with clearance. OX ------------------------------ From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 20:09:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: alum welding At 07:56 AM 26:11:2000 -0700, Richard Boyce wrote: >The process you all are refering to with the propane torch is brazing. With >MIG andTIG welding a cover gas is required, but the original method of >welding alum. was with plain old oxy/acet.This is still a viable method >today if one wants to take the time to learn it. > Richard I was taught using Hydrogen, it's much cleaner burning than acetalene, so is propane for that matter... Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 20:09:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: 81 1-ton engine At 11:32 AM 26:11:2000 -0500, Gary L. Perry wrote: > >Am looking at a one-ton with a 5.8 "E" engine in it. Owner says 351 C. I was thinking they did not have this engine by 81. >5.8 is right for 351 size. Has fairly wide valve covers. What you guys think, is it a "C". Supposedly only 69,000 miles on it, that is what speedo says. Good looking for 81. Has long 12ft. bed on it that has electic hydro-dump. It won't dump with a full load owner says. I've heard the electrics aren't that strong or fast. He's asking $5,000. No radio, basic heater, no tilt-wheel, basic work truck. Frame-mount gas tank. Too much? Need some opinions here. > Thanks, "G" It's prolly an "M"... Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600, terminal cancer... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: paint questions Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 22:08:45 -0600 IMO, engine paint should be fine on an AC compressor. I have painted a few pulleys with engine paint as well, and they held up just fine. The part of the pulley that the belt actually touches is worn away to bare metal, but the rest of it still looks nice. Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Negative Image To: CLASSIC-COUGARS egroups.com ; ford truck list
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 2:48 PM Subject: [61-79-list] paint questions does anyone know if you can use engine paint on air conditioner compressors? also, will pulleys (the metal parts) be painted with engine paint and actually last? -- -------------- Andrew Rolfsen -------------- 1962 Ford F100 Flare Side Resto-mod 351c 1967 Plymouth Fury III Forsale 318 1968 Mercury Cougar hers 302 1978 Ford econoline 150 mine 351w ------------------------------ From: "PitStop Performance" <thepitstop hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 351 HELP Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 22:26:27 -0600 OK, here is anonther question... I was looking through www.edelbrock.com for intakes and heads for the 351C. No heads but several intakes. Anyway, one intake they have listed for the 351C states that it only works on YATES heads!?!? So, are there Yates head for the 352C AND the 351W??? Anyway, I guess I will start searching swap meets and the Internet for a set of aluminum 351C heads. Let me know if anyone here finds a set. Thanks!! _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 21:12:54 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Looking for 351 info!!! I checked out that website. Some interesting data there, but I have some comments to make. The Aussie heads flow great at 3500 RPM. This is fine for a street engine, or a tow vehicle. The downside is the closed chamber will produce 11:1 CR with a flattop piston. That may be OK in Australia where they can get 100 Octane gas, but here with 92 Octane, it will make a great popcorn machine. If you are not going for towing or RV use and you want high horsepower at 6000 RPM, then nothing beats the 4V Cleveland head. I have '72 open chambered heads on a 400w/flattops (10.2:1CR), w/Crane roller rockers (Milodon Chrome covers) and a Crane H 278-2 (278i/290e) cam. I can leave as much rubber on the line as I care to, but above 3000 RPM when the cam and heads start to work the power is awesome. My recommendation for a tow/RV engine is a 400 with stock heads (except for hardened valve seats), flattop pistons (9:1CR), Edelbrock Performer Manifold, Edelbrock 650 CFM carb, a mild cam, headers(hard to find), and a decent ignition. BTW, I just purchased Drag200 and Dyno2000 from Motion Software(www.motionsoftware.com). When I get it, I will try to simulate my motor and my truck to see what it will do on the dyno and on the track. Dan Lee '53 F100 400C-4V >Date: 25 Nov 00 12:23:21 PST >from: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net
>Subject: Looking for 351 info!!! >Check out this website for flow characteristics of >different Cleveland heads: >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.waldens.com/fmotorsp.htm >Many folks I've talked to seem to prefer the 2V head >over the 4V head because of the alleged superiority of >the 2V heads under 3.500 rpm where an average >street engine will normally operate. On the other >hand, the burn characteristics of the closed chamber >head are far superior to those of the 2V >head. That's where the 2V, closed chamber Aussie head >comes in. The problem with the Aussie head is it's >availability, I've known a company in L.A. who >used to import them but they have since gone out of >business. Personally, I don't think the hunt for the >Aussie heads is worth it. The loss of low end >torque of the 4V is, IMHO, negligible over the 2V port >size. However, the even smaller port size makes the >Windsor superior to the Cleveland in towing >applications (read: how do you want to use your >truck?). >Now to the differences of the Cleveland 2V and 4V: >the exhaust manifolds and intakes are all different. >The push rods are the same, the rockers are a >little different, the 2vs have an aluminum pivot, the >4vs are steel. I believe that some of the 4Vs were >even adjustable from the factory. Crane >makes a converson kit (cost about $50) to let you add >adjustable rockers. However, with this kit and roller >rockers the stock and many aftermarket valve >covers will not fit. Moroso tall covers will >definitely work. With flat top >pistons, the closed chambers (1970 only) will give you >approx. 11 to 1 CR with a 1970 motor. Later motors >used different pistons, some were pop-ups. >Last year I was able to drive a 1970 Cleveland 4V - >powered Cougar for a couple of weeks and it was hard >to take off without chirping the tires. If the choice >were mine I would choose the 4V over the 2V because of >it's high-end flow capabilities, the closed combustion >chambers, and because, with the Cougar, I could not >confirm the sluggish response off the line 2V >proponents claim the 4Vs have. >Regards, >Ryan in SoCal > If I use iron heads are 2V heads better than 4V heads for a torque/street > engine? What about the Aussie 2V heads? Where can you even find them? Do > they require special intakes? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for 351 info!!! Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 00:16:23 -0800 The biggest problem I had with the "Stock" 4v cleveland in my 5000#, 4x4 van was that I was using a stock close ratio c-6 with stock converter. The engine had lots of guts once I got it wound up a little bit but from idle it really had a sag in it that was irritating. If you put that engine in a similar vehicle with a wide ratio C-6 or 4 speed manual it would have been a lot of fun :-) The C-6 loads the engine right off idle so it has no chance to get up even close to it's sweet spot in the rpm range but if you use a higher stall converter then you will eat more gas (which makes the wide ratio very desireable). You have to pick what you want to sacrifice with such a set up. As some have done, you can put those really cool heads on a later model 400 and put in the proper cam to make it work well and you will have a real winner. The stock 351 size and camming doesn't flow enough air at low speeds to make any power but the longer stroke of the 400 is reported to make a significant difference in the low speed perfomance. Happily Semi-Retired, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-) > > > If I use iron heads are 2V heads better than 4V heads for a torque/street > > > engine? ------------------------------ From: "Jon Purut" <jcpurut earthlink.net>
Subject: re 67-72 F-100 and F-500 cabs interchange? Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 00:33:13 -0500 Stu, from what I have been able to see from my junk yard excursions the cabs do not interchange. The frame rails are still 34 inches wide but the cab floorpan is more like the pre 65 f series style. I believe the reason for this is the f500 and f600 use the solid axle up front. The solid axle required the use of the older style steering box. The style where the shaft passes through the frame and the column goes up through the floor. I will have pictures of the two styles of boxes on my web site hopefully in the next few days. Cab corners, doors, glass, interior pieces should interchange. Basically anything above the floorpan but not the dash. Also thanks for the compliments on my site. I appreciate it. I think my little girl is going to be a gear head like her dad. She is 19 months old now and her favorite word is "bus". She gets excited and says it over and over when one drives by. Jon E. Purut http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.nbci.com/Chelley ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 23:28:57 -0800 From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: 351 HELP Hey PitStop , PitStop Performance wrote: > > OK, here is anonther question... I was looking through www.edelbrock.com for > intakes and heads for the 351C. No heads but several intakes. Anyway, one > intake they have listed for the 351C states that it only works on YATES > heads!?!? So, are there Yates head for the 352C AND the 351W??? The NASCAR block comes in either W or C deck heigth . Maybe that is what they mean ... the NASCAR block w/C deck ? Did YATES manufacture the alum. C heads Ford used to sell ? They were full C style heads , but the ports were totally different than stock C heads . > > Anyway, I guess I will start searching swap meets and the Internet for a set > of aluminum 351C heads. Let me know if anyone here finds a set. Sure will ... I'd like a set of cast 4v heads to add to my "to do" pile. dave Prasse > > Thanks!! > _____________________________________________________________________________________ > Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 23:38:14 -0800 From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for 351 info!!! Hi Gary , I thought part of this 351C project was to mate it to an AOD tranny. That first gear ought to get a 4v up and going . My current "farm pick up" is actually a '84 Mercury Colony Park wagon . Kids call it the "Griswold Cruiser" It looks just like Clarks car in Lampoons VACATION- Wally World ... any way , that car has a tired 302 under hood . I have a 351C shortblock just waiting for 4v heads ... With the stock 3.25 gears , it should be a "fun wagon" daveP ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 00:50:47 -0500 From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Re: 65 Econoline P/U Isaiah <punkerbat vbe.com> said:
>looking at a 1965 Ford Econoline pickup that has come up for sale again >here in town. I went and looked at it the first time it was for sale, >and took a ride in it...but then I could not afford it. It has come up >for sale again and the owner has installed a different engine (sign says >its a "306" and there used to be a 170? in there) and a different trans >(now a "C-4 auto tranny" used to be a 3-speed) and also a larger rear >end (that came out of the same van the C-4 tranny came out of). I guess >those two came out of a mid-70s long box econoline according to the >current owner. The engine has 70,000 miles on it but doesn't burn any >oil or have any leaks...neither does the tranny. Brakes are good and >recently redone, and the tranny works flawlessly. Its a nice ride and >rather quiet also....the one thing it does need is a king pin on the >passengers side. I haven't had to do a king pin yet (even on a VW) but >I'm sure that I could do it....is it a hard/time consuming thing? Where >could I get another king pin for it? or...are there kits of sorts for >this kind of thing? I assume the "306" is either a mistake or a bored-out 302. A 302 is a common Ford V8, but I don't know what bore would make it a 306. I do know that a 302 is a near bolt-in (for the undaunted) using the heavy duty crossmember that some 240 I-6 trucks had. King pins will only run you $30 a set, but they are difficult to install yourself. If you are competant, you can drop the axle out yourself and take it to a machine shop where a king pin job should run $200-400. That sounds high, but only because the intial price of the whole truck is so low. >It will also need a new tail gate as the current >one is kind of rusty/crusty... I'll need that before I slap paint onto it. You will probably not find another tailgate. If you do, it will likely cost about $500 because they are in great demand with Econoline owners. Repair what you have. Repair panels are available for many parts of the truck if there are other rusted parts. Check all the lower panels, front and back, for signs of rust. >The truck can be seen at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.luckyboys.com/isaiah/65.htm He says >$1,000 and it can be mine. Is this a good deal? Yes, buy it. It's a cool truck, and assuming the owner did the conversion correctly, you have some serious work out of the way. Buy it now and deal with any problems as they come. :) Looks like it currently has a mismatched set of wheels. Those 5-lug steel wheels are easy to find in a junkyard and there are tons of options for aftermarket wheels for that size and bolt pattern. If you have money left over, I would like a set of chrome reversed steel wheels for my van. Order now and they will get here by Christmas! PS: Remember, from the guys at "Rolls and Pleats" (a rod and custom mag from France)-- "Primer is Finer, Beater is Neater". Also, there is an Econoline mailing list at EGroups called "earlyeconolines". Not that the info you get here isn't great, but it never hurts to get more input. -don -- Don Haring, Jr. Design and Illustration | Philadelphia, PA 215-844-8095 ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" <bruce9 flash.net>
Subject: Re: wheels Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 08:25:44 -0600 Ok, thanks -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Jason Derra
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 6:21 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: wheels The bolt pattern on the new Super Duties are slightly different. Look at 97 and older Heavy Duty 250s and 350s. Jason '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 08:24:11 -0600 Subject: Re: 429/460 genesis From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> At 08:35 PM 11/21/00 -0500, you wrote: > I think I erred a little here. The Buick, Olds, and Pontiac V8s were new in > 1967, but I think they were only 430 cubes then. I think the 455 versions > and the Chevy 454 showed up in 1971 when compression dropped. > > > Just a little. The 454 was definitely around in 1970 (I think that was the > 1st year,) as that was the year of my personal favorite muscle car (sorry > guys) the 1970 Chevelle 454 SS. > > Here's the scoop from my book American Supercar, by Roger Huntington, HP > Books; beginning year is first year I could find a reference to that > engine, displacement upgrades are the first year the engine was put in a > mid-size car (Torino or Chevelle size) > > Pontiac: had 326, 389 pre 1965; 400 started in 1967 (extensively reworked > version of 389); 455 in 71. > > Olds: 330 (1963-4), 400 (1965), 455 in 70 > > Buick: old 401 (nailhead) ended 1966, new 400 started 1967; 455 in 70 > > Chevy: 396 started 1965.5; 427 in 1968; 454 in 70 > > Ford: 429 (385 series) started 1968 (in 1969 model full-size cars, > started in 1970 in Torinos) 1970 is first year 460 is listed as an option > for trucks in my Haynes Techbook on Ford engines. > > > George Selby > 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd > 86 Nissan 300ZX > gselby4x4 earthlink.net
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com Sorry, George, there are still some errors. We owned a 1966 Buick Wildcat with a 401. It was not the biggest engine available that year. The biggest was a 425. It was the same engine as the 401 with a bigger bore. 455 in a 70 Olds is correct. My uncle owns one still, though it burned in a house fire. I think your book may be referring to muscle car engines, not luxury cars where the big cubes lived. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 08:34:43 -0600 Subject: Re: Timing belt From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> If you guys tell me the new modular engines actually do have muffler > bearings I'm going to scream....:-) (wouldn't surprise me in the > least...timing belts, plastic intakes, Engine oil pumps driven by the > transmission...but only in drive.... :-)) I guess when I can''t get parts for my current transportation, I'll either walk or take the bus. Too much plastic.... -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 08:46:36 -0600 Subject: Re: paint questions From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> does anyone know if you can use engine paint on air conditioner > compressors? Sure. also, will pulleys (the metal parts) be painted with engine > paint and actually last? Not where the belts run. Otherwise it should stay on just fine. All of my pulleys are painted.... -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 08:49:42 -0600 Subject: Re: alum welding From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> I was taught using Hydrogen, it's much cleaner burning > than acetalene, so is propane for that matter... Hydrogen is the most explosive gas in the universe. Remember the Hindenberg. Be careful kiddies... -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: 65 Econoline P/U Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 07:06:04 -0800 It has come up >for sale again and the owner has installed a different engine (sign says >its a "306" and there used to be a 170? in there) and a different trans >(now a "C-4 auto tranny" used to be a 3-speed) and also a larger rear >end (that came out of the same van the C-4 tranny came out of). I guess >those two came out of a mid-70s long box econoline according to the >current owner. Could be a 300-6 cylinder? Sounds like a cool truck! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 07:26:10 -0800 (PST) From: Steve Kordik <skordik yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: wheels The 99 and older E250 and E350s should work also. > The bolt pattern on the new Super Duties are > slightly different. Look at 97 > and older Heavy Duty 250s and 350s. > Jason > '69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435 > '96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke > "As fast as necessary, as slow as possible" > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:15:14 EST Subject: Re: alum welding In a message dated 11/27/2000 6:51:24 AM Pacific Standard Time, jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:
> Actually the hindinberg exploded do to the fact that they used an aluminum powder on the surface for weather proofing ( I think, coulda been for making the bags air tight, this part is hazy) Any how, aluminum powder is rocket fuel, and being metallic, was extremely susceptible to static electricity, AKA St. Elmos Fire. Also, Hydrogen burns VERY fast, most of the flames in that disaster were from the diesel engines used to drive the propellers. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 08:28:27 -0800 I am one of the poster children for being thrifty, so don't think for a minute I didn't try to buy the pads elsewhere. There was a design change for '99 and the only source at the present time is OEM. Most parts store have listings for '99, but they are incorrect. Problem is that someone (parts) assumes that '99 must be the same as '98 and while that may usually be true, it isn't here. Couple that with the fact that there isn't a parts store within 50 miles of her house, we couldn't afford for them to not be the right ones. I did find out our company has a wholesale account with the dealer, so I got a $67 "rebate" on the pair. Her friend also has a '99 and she has already racked up 55K on hers (she's a realtor) and she paid $700 at the dealer for front and rear pads and turn 4 rotors! FTE content: Paid $30 each for new rear drums for my '77 E150! -----Original Message----- From: Tim and Pam Allgire [mailto:tim-pam williams-net.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 7:07 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... that was your first mistake- going to the dealership for parts. the local parts store could have got you out cheaper & got just as good qaulity of parts. -----Original Message----- From: Southerland, Rich <rsouther alldata.com>
To: 'ford list' <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 1:22 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... >Goin' to Grandmas house for the holiday. She has a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. >Uses it for business and lives in the hills, so at 35K, it's time for >brakes. Just got back from a visit with my smiling Daimler/Chrysler >counterperson and after plunking down $254.29, I walked (limped, really) >away with TWO sets of brake pads. That's it. $250 just for pads. Glad >it's not me paying for it! > >FTE content: Drove my '77 E150 (which I could replace practically every >brake component on the truck for that $250) to pick up the parts > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 08:33:27 -0800 From: Clare Waterman-Storer <waterman scripps.edu>
Subject: Retrospective Thanks: starter problem Well the starter died on ol "Bigheavy" (71 f250) last Wed when I was picking up a load of firewood. After taking a look at it, I realized that the header was going to have to come off in order for me to replace the starter. I went straight to the parts store and got some PB-Blaster and started spraying and tapping on the bolts. Had it towed home (a heck of a way to get your firewood delivered!!), and did this spraying and tapping ritual twice a day for four days straight. Lo and behold all eight bolts loosened right up without a fight or a crack and I had the starter swapped in less than an hour and a half yesterday! I never would have known to engage in this ritual had it not been for the previous discussions on this list! Moral of the story- read the list even when it doesn't apply to your current problem because you never know when the knowledge of the gurus might come in handy! Thanks again! Clare -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: text/x-vcard -- File: waterman.vcf -- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer ------------------------------ From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 16:58:47 GMT Subject: Re: Engine Assembly Problems- Advice? >I once put a Ch*** together when I was a kid with no knowledge but lots of >enthusiasm and used a 3' pipe to "torque" those rod bolts so the dang things >wouldn't come off, ever, by golley! :-) > But Gary, isn't that what the book lists ? "Tighten it up til it twists off, then back it off a half a turn" ? ;) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Assembly Problems- Advice? Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 09:04:25 -0800 I always heard it was tighten it up 'til it strips then back it off half a turn but I'm sure either way works. /// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\ ----- Original Message ----- From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 8:58 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Engine Assembly Problems- Advice? > > But Gary, isn't that what the book lists ? > > "Tighten it up til it twists off, then back it off a half a turn" ? > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:56:38 -0600 Subject: Re: alum welding/Hindenburg From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> Actually the hindinberg exploded do to the fact that they used an aluminum > powder on the surface for weather proofing ( I think, coulda been for making > the bags air tight, this part is hazy) Any how, aluminum powder is rocket > fuel, and being metallic, was extremely susceptible to static electricity, > AKA St. Elmos Fire. Also, Hydrogen burns VERY fast, most of the flames in > that disaster were from the diesel engines used to drive the propellers. The initial explosion was from the Hydrogen. They always used Helium after that. A little more expensive, but totally inert. Ever do the electrolysis experiment to capture a couple of cc's of H in a test tube, then ignite it? Big pop for a small amount of gas. Over do it and you will explode the test tube. Trust me, if you aren't trained to use Hydrogen, leave it alone. A cigarette or any other open flame above a charging battery will do the same thing due to Hydrogen gas emission. Hello plastic surgery... -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:00:45 -0600 Subject: Re: Engine Assembly Problems- Advice? From: "John LaGrone" <jlagrone ford-trucks.com>
> But Gary, isn't that what the book lists ? > > "Tighten it up til it twists off, then back it off a half a turn" ? .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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