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Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 02:02:23 -0500 (EST)
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61-79-list Digest Sat, 25 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 348

In This Issue:
Axle ID
Re: Aluminum welding
Cars in Barns
Re: Tranny Cooler Location
Re: 429/460 genesis
Not good news
Re: Engine Assembly Problems- Advice?
Re: Not good news
Re: Not good news
Re: Not good news
Re: Pigeon forge
Re: Looking for 351 info!!!
Re: [Re: clutch replacement]]
'77 ps conversion
Re: Mercury in the oil pan
Re: Mercury in the oil pan
Looking for 351 info!!!
Do 67-72 F-100 and F-500 cabs interchange?
Re: [Re: clutch replacement]]
What's it worth????
clutch replacement
Re: Do 67-72 F-100 and F-500 cabs interchange?
Re: What's it worth????
Re: Tranny Cooler Location
Re: Tranny Cooler Location
Re: Cars in Barns
Tranny Cooler Location]
Re: Aluminum welding
Re: Looking for 351 info!!!
Re: Looking for 351 info!!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jon Purut" <jcpurut earthlink.net>
Subject: Axle ID
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 08:13:21 -0500

Hi guys. I am a longtime member of this list but have not posted in quite
awhile. Been busy with lots of stuff.

Anyway I need your help. My new project truck is a 1963 F350 that you can
see it at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.nbci.com/Chelley . What I need to do is get more
speed out of this thing since it has a 5.87 rear end!   It has 31 inch tires
and about all I can do is 45 mph. I am afraid to go any faster because the
engine just screams.

I would like to regear the axle or go for an overdrive transmission. I know
about the Clark 280 and I will keep an eye out for one.

If I go for the regear I need to know what series it is. I know it is a Dana
but how do I tell what it is. I have been told it is a 70 but would like
some conformation. Anyone?

Jon E. Purut



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum welding
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 05:31:58 -0800


>
> It is brazing, it is an alloy used to solder aluminum together with.
> Aluminum will burn in open air when subjected to enough heat
> to weld it.
> That is why with true aluminum welding you have to have an
> inert gas (one
> that does not readily mix with oxygen) flowing over the
> surface during the
> welding process (Mig welding)  Powdered aluminum is used in some
> pyrotechnics (fireworks) because it burns so well.
>
>
>

I hear it was also used in the dopant they used on the Hindenburg.  Saw a
special on PBS where they claimed the chemical composition of that dopant
was remarkably similar to the solid rocket propellant used on the space
shuttle.  Oops.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom (Portland)" <Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Cars in Barns
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 06:22:12 -0800

Didn't seen any trucks on this site yet but maybe someone has something they
want to contribute.  It's not my site but I thought it was interesting
anyway.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://carsinbarns.homestead.com/  Devoted to mopars rusting away.  The
common theme is the owner is going to restore it 'someday'.  I saw no less
than 8 superbird/daytonas on the site

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://blueovalsinbarns.homestead.com/  Same premise but dedicated to Fords.
This site is much sadder although thankfully not as large.


Tom H.


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler Location
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 08:08:41 -0800

I've always felt that "beside" the ratiator is best, especially if you live
in a hot climate but not all vehicles have a good place to mount it where
air can flow through it other than in front of the radiator.  Most come with
little rubber spacers to pad and firm up the mounting, make sure you use
them or it will eventually rattle and damage the tubes in the radiator.
Vibration is one of our worst enemies -(

On my 75 van there was a very convenient cutout to the side of the radiator
in the front radiator frame just the right size for the cooler so it worked
out well there.  Just remember that where ever you put it, it needs
sufficient air flow.  You can get fancy and duct it or just flop in in front
of the radiator like the instructions say but remember also that heat is
generated by this coil and that heat flows to the radiator on a hot day if
you mount it in front of it.

Guys who live in death valley and drive broncos with modified 460's, for
instance, would never mount it that way :-)

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

>     I could use some input on my next project. I picked up a tranny
filter,
> thermostat and cooler. The cooler comes with a plastic cord to attach to
the
> rad, is this good or bad?


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: 429/460 genesis
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 08:10:15 -0800

Is 78 one of the "first few years"?  I have one on my barn floor from a 78
continental :-)

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> > I've got a '68 Lincoln with a 460.  It was only available in Lincolns
for
> > first few years.



------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Not good news
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 09:17:57 -0600

ok. not some good news
guess i'm gonna part out my 79 f-250
and probably buy my friends 77 f-250
so
parts for sale
or anything u want

price.. negotianable... (spelling?)

It's got a divorced np205
a 351M with a c6

rest of it is pretty easy to guess because there basically the same then.

If any of you have questions email me off the list.
But i'd like to get the truck out of here soon.  I have to many projects and
the truck would take to long to rebuild.  (it's got a dented in cab and the
box is falling apart
frame is great if anyone wants that too..

-Don  (cries)


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Assembly Problems- Advice?
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 08:37:56 -0800

Just for comparison, the 5/16 rod bolts (or are they 3/8?) are torqued at
about 45# on most applications I've seen.

I once put a Ch*** together when I was a kid with no knowledge but lots of
enthusiasm and used a 3' pipe to "torque" those rod bolts so the dang things
wouldn't come off, ever, by golley! :-)

Typically torque will not make a whole lot of difference in the bearing
clearance if it is very close to spec but the differnce between 45 and 105
could have some measurable impact.  BTW, did you know that good engine
builders do not use plastigauge?  They use inside mic's or telescoping
gauges to measure the assembled caps with bearings to determine the
clearance by comparing that to the crank journal diameter.  It's the most
accurate way to get it done right.  Doing it that way they can also deterine
if there is any out of roundness in the assembly.  It really doesn't take
much longer to do it that way and may even be quicker but you have to have
the correct equipment (expensive).  Plasigauge takes some reading between
the lines sometimes, especially if you happen to have a little oil residue
on the bearings or crank (I think it's oil soluable).

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)

> In 335 series engines, the only main bearing cap bolts that used the 45
ft/lb
> torque spec were the secondary cap bolts in 351C engines w/ 4-bolt main
bearing
> caps.



------------------------------

From: daves8 juno.com
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 09:33:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Not good news

Normal usual question...

Where are you?

On Sat, 25 Nov 2000 09:17:57 -0600 "Don Thurlow"
<don.thurlow greenbaynet.com> writes:
> ok. not some good news
> guess i'm gonna part out my 79 f-250
> and probably buy my friends 77 f-250
> so
> parts for sale
> or anything u want

________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Not good news
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 10:36:45 -0600

I should remembered that one *snickers* I'm in Wisconsin, Green Bay to be
exact.

-Don
----- Original Message -----
From: <daves8 juno.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Not good news


> Normal usual question...
>
> Where are you?
>
> On Sat, 25 Nov 2000 09:17:57 -0600 "Don Thurlow"
> <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com> writes:
> > ok. not some good news
> > guess i'm gonna part out my 79 f-250
> > and probably buy my friends 77 f-250
> > so
> > parts for sale
> > or anything u want
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
> =============================================================
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> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Not good news
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 10:37:00 -0600

Btw.  I'll ship whatever needs to be shipped. You pay shipping :) heh
----- Original Message -----
From: <daves8 juno.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Not good news


> Normal usual question...
>
> Where are you?
>
> On Sat, 25 Nov 2000 09:17:57 -0600 "Don Thurlow"
> <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com> writes:
> > ok. not some good news
> > guess i'm gonna part out my 79 f-250
> > and probably buy my friends 77 f-250
> > so
> > parts for sale
> > or anything u want
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: Fifty7F100 cs.com
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 12:27:37 EST
Subject: Re: Pigeon forge

In a message dated 11/24/00 11:31:55 PM Pacific Standard Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:

<< From: Aeroape82 aol.com
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 18:18:00 EST
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge?


Where can I get more info on this?  Sounds like it's worth checking out.
 >>

I'm sure there will be (or already are) some links on the FTE website. This
is Pigeon Forge's website. There is a lot to see!  <A
HREF="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mypigeonforge.com/HOME_PF.html">Pigeon Forge, the Affordable
Family Vacation Spot</A>

Glenn in TN  <----- we didn't vote for Gore - that should tell you something!
57 F100 -- in process
Yet another spotted in the next county  ...will Tammy let him drag another
home?

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for 351 info!!!
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 10:04:46 -0800

I've heard rumors that aluminum Cleveland heads exist but I've never seen
them. The stock pieces are awfully stout and are basically what the Yates
heads are designed around. The problem is the Yates heads only fit W type
blocks. If you're going to stay with 351 CID then stick with the stock 2V
castings but you can make it breathe a whole lot better by having 4V valves
put in them. They will fit (with cutting of course) and provide a bunch more
airflow while maintaining the velocity of the smaller runners. Of course
they'll benefit from the usual clean up work in the ports & runners. Aussie
302C heads are the ones you want to look for NOT 351C heads. They have the
closed chamber design and can be had with some work. They shouldn't require
any special hardware.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "PitStop Performance" <thepitstop hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2000 10:58 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Looking for 351 info!!!


> Hello all,
>
> Can someone please help me out. I currently have a 351M/C6 combo and I am
> looking to build a little something different. I would like to go with a
> 351C/AOD.
>
> Let me start by saying I don't care for the 351W. It is a fine enough
engine
> but, like I said, I am looking for something a little different.
>
> Any, onto my question(s)... Does anyone make performance heads for this
> engine? I would really like to find a set of aluminum heads, but I can't
> seem to find any.
>
> If I use iron heads are 2V heads better than 4V heads for a torque/street
> engine? What about the Aussie 2V heads? Where can you even find them? Do
> they require special intakes?
>
> Also, what are the Yates engines? I have found some things on aluminum
Yates
> heads. From what I understand the Yates 351 is the same or similar engine
> used in NASCAR engines. Are these based on a 351W block/heads or a 351C
> block/heads?




------------------------------

Date: 25 Nov 00 11:31:47 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: clutch replacement]]

Gary,

I have no clue what you're talking about.  My friend had my jack in his trunk
when he drove to his parents for TG so I didn't get a chance to start this
little project yet - will do tomorrow and see what you mean. BTW, you've
convinced me regarding the tool and the suggestion with the bolts to line up
the bellhousing sounds good as well.

Thanks for the help,

Ryan in SoCal

How much metal do you suppose winds up between the pilot and bushing when
> you crash the end of the pilot into the edges of the bushing trying to
force
> it into place when it's slightly miss-aligned?  GET THE TOOL! :-)
>
> Happily Semi-Retired,
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)


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------------------------------

Date: 25 Nov 00 11:38:43 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: '77 ps conversion

Howdy y'all,

How hard or how easy would it be to install power steering on my wife's '77
F250?  It's a 2-wheel drive.  What parts do I need?

Thanks,

Ryan

____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 14:38:16 -0500
From: Don Haring <haring fedora.net>
Subject: Re: Mercury in the oil pan

Charlie <gndfngus getnet.com> said:
> I can't be mercury if it floats on oil.
> Mercury is much more dense than oil.

Oh, duh, I wasn't thinking. :P I guess it's very possible that it is water,
thought it certainly looks silver to me. Any ideas?

-don

Don Haring, Jr., Philadelphia, PA
FCA Keystone Chapter Internet Director
61 Falcon Futura, 66 Falcon Club Wagon and classic scooters



------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: Mercury in the oil pan
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 13:24:45 -0700

Actually, water should settle to the bottom of the pan as well.  But I don't
know about anti-freeze.

Rich

> > I can't be mercury if it floats on oil.
> > Mercury is much more dense than oil.
>
> Oh, duh, I wasn't thinking. :P I guess it's very possible that it is
water,
> thought it certainly looks silver to me. Any ideas?



------------------------------

Date: 25 Nov 00 12:23:21 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Looking for 351 info!!!

Check out this website for flow characteristics of different Cleveland heads:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.waldens.com/fmotorsp.htm

I've only had Windsors and even with those I'm far from being an expert but
here's some info that I've gathered over the years.

Many folks I've talked to seem to prefer the 2V head over the 4V head because
of the alleged superiority of the 2V heads under 3.500 rpm where an average
street engine will normally operate.  On the other hand, the burn
characteristics of the closed chamber head are far superior to those of the 2V
head.  That's where the 2V, closed chamber Aussie head comes in.  The problem
with the Aussie head is it's availability, I've known a company in L.A. who
used to import them but they have since gone out of business.  Personally, I
don't think the hunt for the Aussie heads is worth it.  The loss of low end
torque of the 4V is, IMHO, negligible over the 2V port size.  However, the
even smaller port size makes the Windsor superior to the Cleveland in towing
applications (read: how do you want to use your truck?).

Now to the differences of the Cleveland 2V and 4V:  the exhaust manifolds and
intakes are all different.  The push rods are the same, the rockers are a
little different, the 2vs have an aluminum pivot, the 4vs are steel.  I
believe that some of the 4Vs were even adjustable from the factory.  Crane
makes a converson kit (cost about $50) to let you add adjustable rockers.
However, with this kit and roller rockers the stock and many aftermarket valve
covers will not fit.  Moroso tall covers will definitely work.  With flat top
pistons, the closed chambers (1970 only) will give you approx. 11 to 1 CR with
a 1970 motor.  Later motors used different pistons, some were pop-ups.

Last year I was able to drive a 1970 Cleveland 4V - powered Cougar for a
couple of weeks and it was hard to take off without chirping the tires.  If
the choice were mine I would choose the 4V over the 2V because of it's
high-end flow capabilities, the closed combustion chambers, and because, with
the Cougar, I could not confirm the sluggish response off the line 2V
proponents claim the 4Vs have.

Regards,

Ryan in SoCal


> If I use iron heads are 2V heads better than 4V heads for a torque/street
> engine? What about the Aussie 2V heads? Where can you even find them? Do
> they require special intakes?



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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 15:56:09 -0600
From: Stu Varner <nukegm ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Do 67-72 F-100 and F-500 cabs interchange?

Hi Guys and Gals,

I was wondering if anyone knew the differences, if any, between F-100/350
cabs and F-500
cabs. Are the cab mounting areas wider or loctaed in a different area on
the heavier trucks than the light ones?
I know the speedo assemblies are different and few if any heavy trucks came
with padded dashes.  The heater units are the same as are the doors etc.
Will one of these work on an F100-350 truck??

I have located (in my searches today) a LARGE heavy truck boneyard which
has several 67-72 F-500 trucks sitting
in the yard that look very very nice and rust free.  They were closed today
so I aim to head back down there
Monday afternoon.

After tearing into my 68, I have noticed I will need to replace a cab
corner and a few areas in the floor which were rusted
from a leaking master cylinder and a leaking heater core.  I would rather
have a solid cab to start with than one which will require a few patches in
various locations.  Thanks in advance for the help.

Laters,

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm   (for sale!!!)

------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: clutch replacement]]
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 14:52:48 -0800

The pilot acts like a bludgeon when you try to force it into the bushing at
an odd angle due to misalignment of the clutch disk.  If you keep pounding
it in and out eventually you can move stuff around enough to make it go in
if it's close but at what cost?

The tool lines up the splines of the disk perfectly with the bushing so when
you push it in it slips in straight with no damage to the bushing or clutch
disk.

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)



------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: What's it worth????
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 15:59:30 -0600

What's a np205 worth nowadays???

-Don


------------------------------

Date: 25 Nov 00 15:42:56 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: clutch replacement

Thanks for the explanation Gary, what you are saying makes sense.  I will give
it a shot tomorrow and while I don't think I will be able finish the
installation (I'll probably have to turn the flywheel in for machining) you
guys have given me a pretty good outline of what is involved.

Regards,

Ryan
'77 F250 in SoCal


> The pilot acts like a bludgeon when you try to force it into the bushing at
> an odd angle due to misalignment of the clutch disk.  If you keep pounding
> it in and out eventually you can move stuff around enough to make it go in
> if it's close but at what cost?
>
> The tool lines up the splines of the disk perfectly with the bushing so
when
> you push it in it slips in straight with no damage to the bushing or clutch
> disk.
>
> Happily Semi-Retired,
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)
>
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 20:39:31 -0500
From: Joe <shoman p3.net>
Subject: Re: Do 67-72 F-100 and F-500 cabs interchange?

Stu
the doors are the same on the larger trucks.I too found many of the doors rust
free
on the larger series trucks..Never checked on the cab though
Joe

Stu Varner wrote:

> Hi Guys and Gals,
>
> I was wondering if anyone knew the differences, if any, between F-100/350
> cabs and F-500
> cabs. Are the cab mounting areas wider or loctaed in a different area on
> the heavier trucks than the light ones?
> I know the speedo assemblies are different and few if any heavy trucks came
> with padded dashes.  The heater units are the same as are the doors etc.
> Will one of these work on an F100-350 truck??
>
> I have located (in my searches today) a LARGE heavy truck boneyard which
> has several 67-72 F-500 trucks sitting
> in the yard that look very very nice and rust free.  They were closed today
> so I aim to head back down there
> Monday afternoon.
>
> After tearing into my 68, I have noticed I will need to replace a cab
> corner and a few areas in the floor which were rusted
> from a leaking master cylinder and a leaking heater core.  I would rather
> have a solid cab to start with than one which will require a few patches in
> various locations.  Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Laters,
>
> Stu
> Nuke GM!
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm   (for sale!!!)
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 22:57:08 EST
Subject: Re: What's it worth????

i want 200.00 for mine, its for a C6.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 22:57:30 -0800
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler Location



Gary wrote:

> I've always felt that "beside" the ratiator is best, especially if you live
> in a hot climate but not all vehicles have a good place to mount it where
> air can flow through it other than in front of the radiator.

<snip>
OTOH, if you're in a cold climate and plow snow, you need it in front of the rad
so the fan sucks air thru the cooler at low snow-plowing speed. Now, some will
think that won't matter in the cold weather but I know of 3 C6's (1 w/cooler
mounted on the side, 2 w/no cooler) that burnt up from extended plowing. One of
them literally caught on fire.

Greg


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler Location
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 23:32:42 -0500

I've always felt that "beside" the ratiator is best, especially if you live
> > in a hot climate but not all vehicles have a good place to mount it
where
> > air can flow through it other than in front of the radiator.
======================================================
the whole purpose of the cooler is to Cool
so why would you want to install it where cool air can not pass over it to
Cool the fluid even the new oem fords with the oem tranny and engine oil
coolers mount them in front of the radiator so that the air flows over them
to get rid of the heat ,what heat the does get tranferred to the radiator
the cooling system if its working well or as it should be will get rid of
that easily especially seeing as how it not near as much as it is with the
oem cooler inside the radiator ,the hotter the climate to more cooling you
would need to the tranny not just the opposite Heat is a tranny,s biggest
enemy
gordon



------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 23:33:56 EST
Subject: Re: Cars in Barns

neat site, i just rescued a 68 roadrunner, 440/4v 4 speed from a field, also
a 70 SS chevelle, they're out there.

FTE content.,  will a rear seat out of a 95 ext cab fit in a 79 extended cab?

jeff

------------------------------

Date: 25 Nov 00 20:54:48 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Tranny Cooler Location]

I agree, also think of airco coolers that are traditionally sitting in front
of the radiator - and those are primarily used under extremely hot conditions!
Airflow through the trans cooler should be a paramount concern and the place
that will give you the best ariflow is right behind the grille (and,
therefore, in front of the radiator).  I lost a transmission to overheating
earlier here in SoCal and from what I hear the C6-es, while able to withstand
a lot of punishment, are *very* susceptible to overheating.

Regards,

Ryan in SoCal

> ======================================================
> the whole purpose of the cooler is to Cool
> so why would you want to install it where cool air can not pass over it to
> Cool the fluid even the new oem fords with the oem tranny and engine oil
> coolers mount them in front of the radiator so that the air flows over them
> to get rid of the heat ,what heat the does get tranferred to the radiator
> the cooling system if its working well or as it should be will get rid of
> that easily especially seeing as how it not near as much as it is with the
> oem cooler inside the radiator ,the hotter the climate to more cooling you
> would need to the tranny not just the opposite Heat is a tranny,s biggest
> enemy
> gordon
>
>
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------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 00:43:04 EST
Subject: Re: Aluminum welding

In a message dated 11/24/2000 7:37:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bruce9 flash.net writes:

<< That is why with true aluminum welding you have to have an inert gas (one
that does not readily mix with oxygen) flowing over the surface during the
welding process (Mig welding)  >>

The gas is called Argon. The gas used in mig welders for steel is a
Argon/Carbon Dioxide mix. 100% Argon is used for welding Aluminum.

One little note for anyone using a mig welder. If you are using the gas to
shield the wire while welding, don't try welding in windy conditions. The
wind will blow the gas away from the point of welding and poor welds are the
result. Use flux core wire for welding outdoors and or in windy environments.

Rollie H. Hunt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 00:39:04 -0800
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for 351 info!!!



Ryan Sturz wrote:
>If  the choice were mine I would choose the 4V over the 2V because of
> it's high-end flow capabilities, the closed combustion chambers,

Not all 4v heads have closed chambers.

> and because, with
> the Cougar, I could not confirm the sluggish response off the line 2V
> proponents claim the 4Vs have.

I agree , guess I'd not build a 2v engine if I had a choice to go 4v,
if performance was my goal . If balls out performance was not the goal ,
I'd go with a set of alum. W heads . I ran a 351C 2v in my '66 F250 ,
then went to 4v heads ... sweet !  :-) ... Then I went Boss 429 ...
scary !! ...

>
> > If I use iron heads are 2V heads better than 4V heads for a torque/street
> > engine?

What RPM range ? If you'll never see over 5,000 ,2v would be OK .
Want 6000 +   4v is the best way :-)  how much money do you have ?
You can still find the Ford Motorsport aluminum 351C heads at swap meets
... or the aluminum Boss 302 heads for a W block .

Money no problem ? YATES ! Not sure about low RPM , but who cares ?

>What about the Aussie 2V heads? Where can you even find them? Do
> > they require special intakes?

There was an ad in the back of SUPER FORD  mag ... Super Roo Indust. ,
or something like that .  They also had the Aussie 351C blocks , if
you can afford the shipping charges  :-) . If you can afford the
shipping charges , you can afford the 351 NASCAR block from Ford for
your YATES heads .



dave Prasse
certified Boss nut ...


>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 00:49:25 -0800
From: dave Prasse <burgess4 gte.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for 351 info!!!



Bill Beyer wrote:
>
> I've heard rumors that aluminum Cleveland heads exist but
> I've never seen  them.

about 14 - 15 yrs ago -- Ford Motorsports cataloged them .
I saw a set just this fall at the Elkhorn ,WI swapmeet .

>The stock pieces are awfully stout and are basically what the Yates
> heads are designed around.

The YATES heads do not have the canted valves .
They are offset ,but , not canted like a C heads valves .

>The problem is the Yates heads only fit W type  blocks.

If one can afford the YATES heads , I'd invest in a new NASCAR block
from Ford Motorsports ... Windsor style block w/ C main bearing size . ....


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