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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 11:50:58 -0500 (EST)
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61-79-list Digest Wed, 22 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 345

In This Issue:
Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...
Re: clutch replacement
Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...]
Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...]
Clutch alignment tool
Re: Clutch alignment tool
Re: Clutch alignment tool
Re: [Clutch alignment tool]
out of town
D60 axle nut socket on eBAY
Re: clutch replacement
Re: [Re: clutch replacement]
Re: 429/460 genesis
460 sources
Tranny Cooler Location
Re: [Tranny Cooler Location]
Re: Tranny Cooler Location
FE Truck exhaust manifolds
D-60
Re: Tranny Cooler Location
Re: FE Truck exhaust manifolds
Re: D60 brake job followup (long)
Re: 460 sources
Re: FE Truck exhaust manifolds
Happy Thanksgiving to all!!!!!
Re: D60 brake job followup (long)
Brakes
Thanksgiving
DynoJet
Illegal question about modular engines.....
Re: clutch replacement]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 11:12:05 -0800

They're wrong.  I looked already.  What they have done is assumed '98 and
'99 are the same and they are not. There was a design change in '99, and
right now, the OEM is the only one with the correct pads.

-----Original Message-----
From: William D. Poudrier [mailto:vze259s7 verizon.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 11:05 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...


How do I politely say you got shafted!  Brake pads front/rear on
www.wrenchhead.com are about $35.  per set.

I buy lots-o-parts on line and think that I get a relatively good deal
Example:  Oxy sensors for my 1987 Lincoln under $30.00
Ignition switch $12 +,  Timing set $25 and so on.

A full set of gaskets for my 79 F150 351M is $ 59  (Felpro)

Bill



At 10:15 AM 11/22/00 -0800, you wrote:
>Goin' to Grandmas house for the holiday.  She has a '99 Jeep Grand
Cherokee.
>Uses it for business and lives in the hills, so at 35K, it's time for
>brakes.  Just got back from a visit with my smiling Daimler/Chrysler
>counterperson and after plunking down $254.29, I walked (limped, really)
>away with TWO sets of brake pads.  That's it.  $250 just for pads.  Glad
>it's not me paying for it!
>
>FTE content: Drove my '77 E150 (which I could replace practically every
>brake component on the truck for that $250) to pick up the parts
>
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------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: clutch replacement
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 14:48:25 -0500

> For instance, do I have to drop the tranny all the way or can I
> just slide it back a little while I work on the clutch (2-wheel drive)?

You need to slide it back far enough to get the input shaft back
out of the clutch disc and give you enough room to put your hands
and forearms up in there.  I have done a clutch replacement by just
sliding the transmission back; you will likely have to pull it back about
8-12 inches to get enough space to work.
Take the transmission off the bellhousing first, then take the bellhousing
off the engine.  That should give plenty of maneuvering space.

>  Do I have to disconnect the shifter linkage from inside the cabin
> or from underneath?

It depends on how big the hole is for it.  When I did the clutch swap,
all I did was remove the floor mounted cover pan over the transmission.
That allowed enough room to slide the transmission back without
removing the shifter.  (my trans is a Warner T-18 4 speed)

> Do I have to drain the fluid before I pull the trans?

nope

>  Does the manual trannie have a dipstick?

nope

> Where's the hole to refill it?

It should be on the side of the transmission case.
There are two screw-in plugs: the one lowest on the case is the drain
the one higher up on the case is the fill.  It is easier to see and fill
if you take the floor mounted cover pan out.

> Can I resurface the flywheel myself or do I have to take it in?

Generally, it is better if the flywheel is resurfaced by a machine shop,
unless you have a machine shop ...  Flywheels don't really need to
be resurfaced unless there is unevenness or pitting.  If your flywheel
is smooth and looks to be in good condition, chances are that it
doesn't need to be resurfaced.

> While I'm under there, what's the difference between the big block
> and the small block bellhousing bolt pattern (I'd like to try to
> determine if thats an M or a W block)?

You don't need to get under the truck to tell that ... just open the hood.
In Windsor blocks, the upper radiator hose outlet/thermostat housing
attaches at the intake manifold, and it would come out with the intake
manifold if you were to remove the intake manifold.
In the M-blocks, the upper radiator hose outlet/thermostat housing
attaches to the engine block itself.

> I understand I just have to pay attention to aligning the disc,

Yes, and you can get an alignment tool for this at better auto parts
stores to make the job MUCH easier.

> the rest will automatically drop into place?

I wouldn't quite say "drop", but with some stud-bolts to guide it, and
with you and about 30 really strong friends to push it into place, it
generally lines up with only a little wiggling it around.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 11:53:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Chris Sullivan <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...]

You know beer will always make things seem more rational when you do things like
that.  Now if only i could figure a way to get the whole truck up there....lol...

chris
1979 F-150 300ci 4x4
1992 Jeep Wrangler (toy)

=====
With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was fool proof he headed off to her place.  He yelled out his feelings amoung other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough.

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------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 13:56:16 -0600

i know right
lol
somtimes
but ya know i couldn't hurt my precious ford like that.....
i just had to buy a *cough* oldsmobile well i got it for free because my
truck's running like poop and my cab's all dented in. so rebuild time :) to
the mud bogger i always wanted :) hehe
more money down the tube but it'll be worht it in the long run
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Sullivan" <trendsetter4life yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...]


> You know beer will always make things seem more rational when you do
things like
> that.  Now if only i could figure a way to get the whole truck up
there....lol...
>
> chris
> 1979 F-150 300ci 4x4
> 1992 Jeep Wrangler (toy)
>
> =====
> With His head out the Sunroof and his heart in the right place, Plan B was
fool proof he headed off to her place. He yelled out his feelings amoung
other stuff, it was to much tequila or not quite enough.
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
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>


------------------------------

From: "Serian" <serian mailandnews.com>
Subject: Clutch alignment tool
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 15:04:52 -0500

> I just eyeball the alignment and tighten up the pressure plate bolts.
> Hope that made some sense.  In any case, if you like buying tools,
> then get the alignment tool, but if your looking to save a buck, this
> has been a trouble-free procedure for me.

Anyone who likes working on everything they can get their hands on
likes to buy tools !   The hard plastic clutch alignment tool for my
'79 bronco only cost me a little over $1, anyway :-)
Using the tool saves some time with having to eyeball it and slide
it around with a screwdriver, but hey, if you are good at the method
you use and are accurate with it ....
From what I can tell, Ford used the same clutch spline pattern on
all the Ford 3.03 3 speed, NP435 4 speed, and Warner T-18 4 speed
transmission applications, so the tool becomes even more useful of
an investment the more Ford trucks with manual transmissions you
have.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 12:27:16 -0800
From: Don Grossman <duckdon mac.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch alignment tool

>
>From what I can tell, Ford used the same clutch spline pattern on
>all the Ford 3.03 3 speed, NP435 4 speed, and Warner T-18 4 speed
>transmission applications, so the tool becomes even more useful of
>an investment the more Ford trucks with manual transmissions you
>have.

Right.  The earlier T-98 uses a larger input shaft as I am finding
out.  I am upgrading to an NP 435 and need to change the bellhousing
and clutch disk.  I hope the flywheel and starter will still work or
will I need to change to a smaller flywheel?  Where there different
flywheels for the FE series?

laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 15:46:35 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch alignment tool


In a message dated 11/22/2000 12:29:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
duckdon mac.com writes:


> Where there different
> flywheels for the FE series?
>


Only differences Im aware of are betwenn the small and large clutch.  But all
the measurements are the same, with the exception of the pressure plate bolt
circle.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
71 Stang "Cletus"



------------------------------

Date: 22 Nov 00 13:22:02 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Clutch alignment tool]

So are you saying I should get the tool as a excuse to buy more trucks in
order to make the tool worthwhile? :o))

Seriously, how can I tell which one of the two different 4 speeds I have?
What are the differences?

Thanks,

Ryan
'77 F250 in SoCal

> From what I can tell, Ford used the same clutch spline pattern on
> all the Ford 3.03 3 speed, NP435 4 speed, and Warner T-18 4 speed
> transmission applications, so the tool becomes even more useful of
> an investment the more Ford trucks with manual transmissions you
> have.


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------------------------------

From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: out of town
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 15:29:53 -0600

going out of town for thanksgiving
i always dread coming back from a vacation because i always end up with like
4000 emails
ne who
just wanted to slip in a note my STEP father bought a 77 f-250 today so it's
all good :) heh he paid $300 bucks for it. and all it needs is new valve
cover gaskets on the 460 and i think a new trans cover gasket so me be
workin out in the cold this thanksgiving hehe :)

-Don


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 13:52:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: D60 axle nut socket on eBAY

For those of you that have been following the dana 60 threads lately there
was some discussion of the socket required to remove the wheel bearing
retaining nuts on the rear D60.  I think that I've found one for sale on
eBAY if anyone is interested.  I can't vouch for the seller but thought
I'd pass it along.  Unfortunately I already bought mine for $17 but
hopefully someone else can benefit from my loss.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=503808991

Later,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project in progress)
'79 F-350 4x4 "Fred"

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------------------------------

From: "MARTY COLMAN" <colman76 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: clutch replacement
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 22:16:50

I have a thought to add to this discussion...

I've found it is often hard to get the tranny lined up into the new clutch.
The spines have to line up, the shaft and pilot bushing have to line up and
the bell housing has to line up.  Never fails, when I think it'll go, the
splines are not matched.  So I started leaving the tranny in gear.  Then if
I think the splines are holding it back, I just turn the driveshaft yoke -
which turns the input shaft allowing the splines to match up.  Can't do that
if it is in neutral.

Oh, and I really think the plastic alignment tools is well worth the couple
bucks - big help to me.

Just a thought.

Marty
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------------------------------

Date: 22 Nov 00 16:05:32 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: clutch replacement]

Marty,

This sounds like very valuable input which I'll keep in mind.

After the holiday I'll let you all know how it went.

Thanks again to all who responded,

Ryan in SoCal

> I have a thought to add to this discussion...
>
> I've found it is often hard to get the tranny lined up into the new clutch.

> The spines have to line up, the shaft and pilot bushing have to line up and

> the bell housing has to line up.  Never fails, when I think it'll go, the
> splines are not matched.  So I started leaving the tranny in gear.  Then if

> I think the splines are holding it back, I just turn the driveshaft yoke -
> which turns the input shaft allowing the splines to match up.  Can't do that

> if it is in neutral.
>
> Oh, and I really think the plastic alignment tools is well worth the couple

> bucks - big help to me.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Marty
>
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------------------------------

From: "Richard Larsen" <richlars burgoyne.com>
Subject: Re: 429/460 genesis
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 17:25:25 -0700

I can confirm the '68 429 Thunderjet since I have one sitting in my '68 two
door landau T-Bird.

Rich

> I've got a '68 Lincoln with a 460.  It was only available in Lincolns for
> first few years.
> T-birds had 429's in '69 for sure, maybe in '68 as well.  I think 460 was
> first to be available in a blue oval product (Lincoln), with the 429
> available in high end merc/ford sedans one year later.
> Ray G



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 19:40:32 -0500
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
Subject: 460 sources

hey all

Found a 77 bird for sale near me, owner has no idea what motor is in
it. Any chance it'll have a 460.

                                  OX

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" <jwebster tnt21.com>
Subject: Tranny Cooler Location
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 19:53:03 -0500

Hi Folks,
   I could use some input on my next project. I picked up a tranny filter,
thermostat and cooler. The cooler comes with a plastic cord to attach to the
rad, is this good or bad? Would a preferred method be a bracket mounting it
just in front of the rad? Thanks for any help.

Regards,
John
'77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's


------------------------------

Date: 22 Nov 00 17:11:44 PST
From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Tranny Cooler Location]

John,

I have run a trans cooler attached to the radiator with the supplied plastic
cords for several years with no problems.  If you like to do your own
machining/ building your own stuff you can obviously make your own bracket but
I don't think it's worth the trouble.  The only problem I had with the plastic
cords was that I had to cut and replace them every time I pulled the radiator
which I had to do a lot on that car ('66 Fastback).

Regards,

Ryan in SoCal

> Hi Folks,
>     I could use some input on my next project. I picked up a tranny filter,
> thermostat and cooler. The cooler comes with a plastic cord to attach to
the
> rad, is this good or bad? Would a preferred method be a bracket mounting it
> just in front of the rad? Thanks for any help.
>
> Regards,
> John
> '77 F150 4X4 460/C6/4:11's/33's
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:19:59 -0800
From: Greg <greg gregster.com>
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler Location



John Webster wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>     I could use some input on my next project. I picked up a tranny filter,
> thermostat and cooler. The cooler comes with a plastic cord to attach to the
> rad, is this good or bad? Would a preferred method be a bracket mounting it
> just in front of the rad? Thanks for any help.
>
>

I put my trans cooler on with plastic cable ties (was supposed to be
temporary!), some small flat washers and pieces of inner tube about 1/2" square
between cooler and rad. Put a washer on a tie ... ran it thru the fins of the
cooler ... thru the rubber square ... thru the rad fins ... another washer ...
then another tie to tighten the first. This was a quick fix in cold weather 2
yrs ago, but it's still on there and solid.

Greg



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 18:31:23 -0700
From: Dave Oneal <dave davesmonsterpit.com>
Subject: FE Truck exhaust manifolds

I have been looking around and have noticed that the left (drivers side)
exhaust manifold isnt like all the other ones I have seen in trucks. Were
all the truck manifolds the same? I am wondering what the one I have is
from, it is straight (like the other side) but the exit is between the last
two cylinders and is almost straight down, it just has a flange for the
pipe, no donut gasket. All the other truck I have seen have the ones that
are shaped like kind of like this ^^ with the exit in center of the two loops.

Dave

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.davesmonsterpit.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 17:35:57 -0800
From: scott <scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: D-60

- Scott, I think the torque specs would be really helpful at this point.
-

What the 76 factory manaul states

Axle shaft to hub                                               40-50
ft.lbs.

While rotating the wheel,tighten the inner bearing lock nut to  50-80
ft.lbs.
Then back off 3/8 of a turn.

Install outer locking nut and torque to                        90-110
ft.lbs.
Wheel must rotate freely and have a end play of
0.001"-0.010"

I have found that if I tighten the inner to 70 ft.lbs.I have 0.000 end
play.
I then VERY slowly loosen the nut until I can detect the slightest
movement.
I have found this to be 0.001" end play.I then lossen it just a tad
more.
Better too loose than too tight,but with a dial indicater perfection is
possible.When you get the end play right,install a new lock washer and
the outer nut.When the outer is tightened it compresses the inner nut
and the end play is thrown off and you start all over.
You do this until a happy medium is reached and the outer nut is
torqued and the wheel spins freely with the proper end play.
After doing one side the other will be much,much easier.
BTW the factory spec. of 90-110 ft.lbs.for the outer nut is a little
optimistic for the socket commonly used.I just get it as tight as I can
and call it good.

-BTW, Scott, why do I need to replace the locking washer between the
-bearing nuts?  Can't I just rebend the tabs around the nuts after
-re-installing them?

A few years ago I did the rear brakes on my 76 f-250.I had done the
brakes a few times before and thought nothing of reusing the lock
washers.
I made it less than five miles down the road when the right rear locked
up tight.After paying the tow truck driver $100 to get me home I tore
into the rear end.It was a nightmare.The tabs on the lock washer had
broke and as I drove the bearing retaining nuts got tighter and tighter
until the wheel locked up.
It took a come-along ,torch and hammer routine to get the drum off.
The outer bearing was shoved into the hub so far the hub/drum was
ruined,
the bearing was ruined,as were the retaining nuts and of course the lock
washer.
The inner bearing welded itself to the spindle and I had to cut it off
and almost wasted the housing in the process.
You can rebend the tabs,but if the tabs have been bent back and forth
in a earlier brake job they could fail.The tabs on the lock washers are
fairly thin and are easily broken by bending back and forth.
Believe me I always use new lockwashers after that fiasco..............

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler Location
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:43:53 -0500

Would a preferred method be a bracket mounting it
> > just in front of the rad? Thanks for any help.
=======================================================
ive used tranny coolers myself and just wouldnt trust one mounted to the
radiator, IF it rubs a hole in either one of them this way it could be very
costly to you, best bet would be to make a homemade bracket to mount it in
front of the radiator
gordon



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" <flash1 alltel.net>
Subject: Re: FE Truck exhaust manifolds
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 20:47:40 -0500

I am wondering what the one I have is
> from, it is straight (like the other side) but the exit is between the
last
> two cylinders and is almost straight down, it just has a flange for the
> pipe, no donut gasket
======================================================
the ones with no donut are made to have a heat riser stuck below them and
the donut gasket then goes into the bottom of the riser then allot of the t
birds from about 63 on had them this way
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" <bbeyer pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: D60 brake job followup (long)
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 18:26:01 -0800

I'm not quite convinced that the rear axle lube does anything with regards
to the wheel bearings on the Dana 60 like it does on the 9 inch. All of the
info I've read says that the bearings should be packed thoroughly with
bearing grease just like the front ones on a 4X4 are.

As far as the spindles/races, nothing rides directly on the spindle surface
itself so it just needs to be smooth enough to slide the inside collar of
the bearing onto. I guess if you want to call this a race you can but it
really is part of the bearing itself. The "separate" bearing race is an
interference fit into the hub itself and should be installed with a special
bearing driver tool.

/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\

----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Finn" <ecfinn yahoo.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 7:52 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: D60 brake job followup (long)


>
> - The spindle (apparently I had the correct term in the first place... who
> knew?)  has some surface markings on it.  They mainly seem to be beneath
> where the bearings ride.  The surface up next to the brake backing plate
> seems to be ok.  I'm assuming that's where the seal rides correct?  From
> Azie's comments since its not bent or rusted through I should be ok as
> long as the race doesn't spin right?  I think I might have found one of my
> problems however.  Should there be a race mounted on the spindle itself or
> is the race attached to the inside of the inner bearings?  Is it possible
> the race came out with the drum?  So in terms of location going from the
> brake backing plate (where the pads are mounted the order should be seal,
> race, then inner bearing correct?
>
> - Now onto the confusing part, the bearings themselves.  The set of outer
> bearings that I looked at did not look discolored or pitted in any way.
> From your descriptions then I'll probably reuse them if all else checks
> out ok.  That's good news.  Maybe this won't cost me a ton of $$$.  I need
> to lightly pack the bearings in grease so they don't burn before they get
> coated in diff lube.  Does it matter what type of grease I use for this?




------------------------------

From: "Stevel" <canzus seanet.com>
Subject: Re: 460 sources
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 19:18:23 -0800


----- Original Message -----
From: James Oxley <luxjo thecore.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 22 November, 2000 4:40 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 460 sources


> hey all
>
>  Found a 77 bird for sale near me, owner has no idea what motor is in
> it. Any chance it'll have a 460.

Some chance, small however, could have a 400, or a 351W

Stevel


------------------------------

From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 04:28:29 GMT
Subject: Re: FE Truck exhaust manifolds

>I am wondering what the one I have is
>> from, it is straight (like the other side) but the exit is between the
>last
>> two cylinders and is almost straight down, it just has a flange for the
>> pipe, no donut gasket
>======================================================
>the ones with no donut are made to have a heat riser stuck below them and
>the donut gasket then goes into the bottom of the riser


This is what I have on my truck now, I've also got a manifold from a 76 390
that is the other way ... if you've got your exhaust set up for one, its pretty
difficult to switch as the riser is a couple inches tall.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4   6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Ford F250" <fordf2501977 hotmail.com>
Subject: Happy Thanksgiving to all!!!!!
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 23:01:59 -0800


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------------------------------

From: "Jason Derra" <derrar internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: D60 brake job followup (long)
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 01:23:33 -0800



> I'm not quite convinced that the rear axle lube does anything with regards
> to the wheel bearings on the Dana 60 like it does on the 9 inch. All of
the
> info I've read says that the bearings should be packed thoroughly with
> bearing grease just like the front ones on a 4X4 are.

The design of the Dana 60 allows for the differential oil to lube the wheel
bearings as well.  This is the same design as on large trucks.  There is no
seal to separate the diff oil as there is on a front end application. The
oil would run out of the knuckle before it could reach the bearings anyways.
The way I usually "prelube" oil lubed bearings is by pouring oil onto the
bearings before installing them.  I also fill the hub cavity with as much
oil as I can get in there before putting the outer bearing in.

Jason
'69 Bronco 5.0 HO EFI, NP435
'96 F250 Ext Cab 4WD Powerstroke
"As fast as necessary, as slow as possible"



------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Brakes
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 09:55:57 -0600


Eric F. writes:  >>Should there be a race mounted on the spindle itself or
is the race attached to the inside of the inner bearings?

The bearing itself has the inner race as part of it and it is a
snug fit on the spindle..  The outer race is a press fit in the hub(drum
center portion), I believe.
Man its been a long time since I've been in one of these..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Thanksgiving
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 10:03:19 -0600


Happy Thanksgiving to All.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "NP 540" <np540 hotmail.com>
Subject: DynoJet
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 16:40:27


Hi

  About 3 days ago on this list, there was mention of a "DynoJet"
engine simulator program as I recall. I have been doing searches on
the web for that thing, but to no avail. Anybody here know the
web site for that "DynoJet" program? Any demos available?


Many thanks!

Gerry
M-block "disciple"
VIVE LE FORD!
1978 F-150 SuperCab 4x4
1979 F-150 regular cab 4x4
The only Acadian here on this list so far?


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From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Illegal question about modular engines.....
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 07:10:21 -0800


Sorry to interrupt gang but my daughter's 97 with 4.2 V-6 died.  Does the timing belt run in oil inside the front cover on these engines?  It had a serious coolant leak from a gasket in the front cover and I suspect this may have allowed coolant into the oil but not sure how they go together (never worked or even looked closely at the new ones)

It's a real shame too with only 80k miles on it.  Using Mobil one she should have got 200k out of it :-(

Happily Semi-Retired,
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary :-)


------------------------------

From: "Gary" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: clutch replacement]
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2000 07:04:51 -0800

If two bucks seems like too much to pay for.......say 2 hours of
work......then skip it but if you like things to work first time out of the
box, get the tool.  If you buy a clutch kit the tool usually comes with it
anyway.  One other thing I might add is get some long bolts of the size used
to hold the tranny bell and bell housing on (both for a stick) and cut the
heads off and round them to use as "Guides" when you re-install the bell
housing and tranny.  You may save even more than 2 hours of work........

How much metal do you suppose winds up between the pilot and bushing when ....


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