 |
|
|
|
|
|
Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 22 Nov 2000 14:11:40 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 14:11:40 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #344 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Tue, 21 Nov 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 344 In This Issue: Re: 352 vs 351w compatability vs 360 or 390 need recipe for a 460 Re: Small Block V8 for my 65F100 clutch replacement Re: 429/460 genesis Stroke Re: D60 brake job followup (long) Re: clutch replacement Re: D60 brake job followup (long) Re: [Fordnatics] 352 vs 351W compatibility Re: [Re: clutch replacement] Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... Re: clutch replacement Re: clutch replacement] Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...] Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:03:19 -0800 From: CLAUDE JONES <gizmo phonewave.net>
Subject: Re: 352 vs 351w compatability vs 360 or 390 It's been awhile since I posted but I have to comment on this, I'm no pro when it comes to what is the best engines or comparisions of torque and all that, BUT I personally am very happy with my 352 compared with the 360 or 390. I have over 180,000 miles on it. Compression is steady at 40 psi when warmed up (65 psi at start up) and I get 14 mpg on the highway 12 mpg in town. All this with the NP435 toploader and Dana 60 with 4.10s It has Plenty of torque!!! With the right set up its just as good as a 390! period! Sooooo don't junk your 352's give them to me, I'll be more than happy to take them off your hands. LoL ;o) C Jones (another CJ lol) 1966 F250 CC/CS Fallon, Nv ------------------------------ From: Critterwoods aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 21:43:11 EST Subject: need recipe for a 460 Friends, I have to re-build my 460. Can anyone give me a good recipe for an engine with decent power, that still gets manageable fuel mileage. It has to run on cheap gas. I am putting it in my 78 4x4. It has 355 gears and a c-6 transmission. I need to know what kind of pistons and head work. Any info will help. Thanks. ------------------------------ From: BRussAZ aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 22:13:46 EST Subject: Re: Small Block V8 for my 65F100 Greetings All, Awhile back I indicated the wish to install a 300 in my beloved 65 F100. I am thinking now a good replacement for the tired 240 would be a SB V8 with a 4-speed. I have heard a lot about the 302 but not working with Fords in my younger years, I am unfamiliar with engine/trans swaps. My truck is Long Bed with factory 240/3-speed. If I got the right motor mounts, would a SB V8/4-speed fit without drive shaft modifications? Any recommendations? thanx in advance. Bill ------------------------------ Date: 21 Nov 00 22:39:25 PST From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: clutch replacement Greetings, I am new to the list and to Ford trucks and would like to take the opportunity to ask a question while I'm introducing myself. My wife and I purchased a 1977 F250 two weeks ago. According to the emissions test papers the truck has a 5.8 backed by a manual 4-speed transmission (the part with the 4 speeds I was able to verify :o)) Anyway, the clutch was slipping badly when I drove the truck home and went totally out on my way back from the parts store two days later after I had picked up a CenterforceI pressure plate with the disk and TO bearing. Now, I'm new to replacing clutches and even though I do have a rough idea of how to proceed I would be grateful for any pointers or hints. For instance, do I have to drop the tranny all the way or can I just slide it back a little while I work on the clutch (2-wheel drive)? Do I have to disconnect the shifter linkage from inside the cabin or from underneath? Do I have to drain the fluid before I pull the trans? Does the manual trannie have a dipstick? Where's the hole to refill it? Can I resurface the flywheel myself or do I have to take it in? While I'm under there, what's the difference between the big block and the small block bellhousing bolt pattern (I'd like to try to determine if thats an M or a W block)? I understand I just have to pay attention to aligning the disc, the rest will automatically drop into place? Thanks in advance for all the help anyone could offer and sorry for the somewhat lengthy post. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours, I'll be spending mine under the truck. Best regards, Ryan Sturz '77 F250 '70 Skylark Custom Convertible ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 02:48:34 -0500 From: George Selby <gselby4x4 earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 429/460 genesis At 08:35 PM 11/21/00 -0500, you wrote: I think I erred a little here. The Buick, Olds, and Pontiac V8s were new in 1967, but I think they were only 430 cubes then. I think the 455 versions and the Chevy 454 showed up in 1971 when compression dropped. Just a little. The 454 was definitely around in 1970 (I think that was the 1st year,) as that was the year of my personal favorite muscle car (sorry guys) the 1970 Chevelle 454 SS. Here's the scoop from my book American Supercar, by Roger Huntington, HP Books; beginning year is first year I could find a reference to that engine, displacement upgrades are the first year the engine was put in a mid-size car (Torino or Chevelle size) Pontiac: had 326, 389 pre 1965; 400 started in 1967 (extensively reworked version of 389); 455 in 71. Olds: 330 (1963-4), 400 (1965), 455 in 70 Buick: old 401 (nailhead) ended 1966, new 400 started 1967; 455 in 70 Chevy: 396 started 1965.5; 427 in 1968; 454 in 70 Ford: 429 (385 series) started 1968 (in 1969 model full-size cars, started in 1970 in Torinos) 1970 is first year 460 is listed as an option for trucks in my Haynes Techbook on Ford engines. George Selby 78 F-150 4x4 400 4 spd 86 Nissan 300ZX gselby4x4 earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.usedcarsandparts.com ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Stroke Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 16:46:19 -0600 I just sent an E mail to this list agreeing that the stroke of a 351C was 3.35".. Not Correct.. All Ford 351's have a stroke of 3.5" as well as the 352 FE. A senior moment there.... Sorry Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 07:52:10 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Finn <ecfinn yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: D60 brake job followup (long) Wow! Thanks for all the great responses. First let me wish everyone a happy and safe holiday weekend. Traveling will be nuts out there so take it easy folks. I want you all back here on Monday. (Besides I could use the help.) <VBG> I'll try to summarize what you've said and then you can let me know if I'm still missing something or I've got it confused etc. I'll start with the easier to understand points and move on from there. - As far as the spring kit, the consensus seems to be to replace it while I'm in there doing the other things as long as the parts don't still look new. If they look ok I'll probably reuse them and return the kit. - To answer your question Eric W., it appears that a standard socket will not work. You'll need a special tool that's made just for this purpose. Its a rounded corner 2 9/16" socket. Also note that its a 3/4" drive. I'm not sure that this socket can be used on all D60 rears however. I thought I heard a while back that some of the earlier models used a 2 3/8" nut. I could be wrong however. I would pull one of the outer nuts first to check it first before buying the tool though. If you're interested the tool I bought was an OTC (part # 1928) and I got it at Napa for $17. - The drum is measured by the inside diameter and should be turned by a shop who will determine if there is enough metal left to justify turning them. - The hub seal has to be replaced in order to replace the bearings since I'll trash it while taking it out. No big deal but now I've got to make sure I get new seals when I get the rest of the parts. - Its fine to use the adapter for the torque wrench as long as the socket is still centered in the same location on the wratchet. Which makes sense if I'd actually thought about it. :-) I was just concerned that the adapters would allow some slippage in the connections and possibly skew the readings. - The choice on brand of bearings seems to be choose whatever you're comfortable with. I think I'll stick with Timken since they were in there already and I can easily match up the part #'s to ensure I've gotten the correct bearings. - First I think I need to confirm that I'm referring to the correct bearings (inner vs. outer). When I say inner bearings I'm referring to the ones closest to the differential and the last ones off the spindle. The outer bearings are the ones held in with the retaining nut and the ones that come out before you can remove the drum. Is that correct? Assuming this is correct I'll use these terms below. - The spindle (apparently I had the correct term in the first place... who knew?) has some surface markings on it. They mainly seem to be beneath where the bearings ride. The surface up next to the brake backing plate seems to be ok. I'm assuming that's where the seal rides correct? From Azie's comments since its not bent or rusted through I should be ok as long as the race doesn't spin right? I think I might have found one of my problems however. Should there be a race mounted on the spindle itself or is the race attached to the inside of the inner bearings? Is it possible the race came out with the drum? So in terms of location going from the brake backing plate (where the pads are mounted the order should be seal, race, then inner bearing correct? - Now onto the confusing part, the bearings themselves. The set of outer bearings that I looked at did not look discolored or pitted in any way. From your descriptions then I'll probably reuse them if all else checks out ok. That's good news. Maybe this won't cost me a ton of $$$. I need to lightly pack the bearings in grease so they don't burn before they get coated in diff lube. Does it matter what type of grease I use for this? - What type of gear oil goes in the rear since it seems I need to check the level? I know this has been asked before but I never paid attention since I only had a 9" rear in my Bronco. How do I tell if its a limited slip? If it is LS then I need different gear oil correct? - Apparently I can remove the inner bearing from the drum by tapping it out gently, which will push out the rear seal and the bearing. - Neither side leaked out any gear oil when I removed the axle. Of course I was only working on one side at a time so it was higher than the opposite side when I pulled it. Shouldn't there at least be some residue or something? I guess you just check the level with the truck sitting on a level surface and pull the plug on the diff cover correct? How high should the level be? Up to the bottom of the plug? - When I removed the axle shafts themselves they had some surface rust on them about midway between the ends. Is that a problem or just further indication that the diff is low on fluid? Also there seemed to be some 'gunk' on the splines of the axle shaft after I removed them. Could that just be from the surfaces inside the axle tube or should I pull the diff cover and look at the gears? - Can I reuse the axle shaft gasket that mounts behind the 8 bolts to the brake drum or should I purchase new ones to use once I'm finished? - I just want to confirm how the whole system works on these brakes. The gear oil runs out from the diff through the axle tube and inside the inner portion of the brake drum. Both sets of bearings ride on the spindle in the diff oil. There are seals at the front and back of the brake drum that keep the diff oil from leaking out the front or back of the drum. - I think based upon all the questions I've had I'll try to do a decent writeup and get it posted somewhere for ya'll to review. I've taken enough of your time so far that I have to think it would be useful to someone else who's new to the full-floating axles like myself. Besides it'll cut down on these types of question in the future. :-) I think I'm decidedly in the negative with this group so far so I'd like to give something back instead of always taking. - Scott, I think the torque specs would be really helpful at this point. I may or may not have the correct ones in my various manuals. It would be helpful to compare them nonetheless seeing as how we've had disagreement lately on torque specs for the main bearings in the 351M. See I do pay attention ;-) - BTW, Scott, why do I need to replace the locking washer between the bearing nuts? Can't I just rebend the tabs around the nuts after re-installing them? Wow I can't believe how long this post turned out to be. Sorry about that. If you're still reading at this point I greatly appreciate it! Later, Eric Finn (getting more long-winded everyday it seems...) '78 Bronco "The Beast" (Project still in progress) '79 F-350 4x4 "Fred" __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" <garrettnelson writeme.com>
Subject: Re: clutch replacement Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 11:22:12 -0600 Well when I replaced the clutch behind my 390 I pulled the engine. I would think that to replace the clutch with the engine installed, you will have to completely remove the tranny. There should be some kind of metal plate over the shifter. Removing that should give you access to the shift linkage. I would probably remove the shifter to get it out of the way. Be sure you get an alignment tool for the clutch disk. There are 2 styles, a universal metal one with lots of parts, and a one piece plastic one made just for your clutch. Either one will work, the plastic one will probably be cheaper but may be harder to find. I got the universal set, that way you can use it on other vehicles as well. Replacement is pretty straight-forward. Just follow the directions that are included. A shop manual with torque specs for the bolts is a good idea as well. You may wish to invest in some new pressure plate bolts, they are not that expensive and are good insurance. Get some good ARP or similar ones that are meant for pressure plate use. Manual trannies do not have dipsticks, there is usually a plug you remove to add fluid and check the level. You should not have to drain the fluid from the tranny for this, but now would be a good time to check it. Have a machine shop surface the flywheel. Oh, and try bolting the clutch to the flywheel to see how the disc fits before you have the flywheel machined. Some flywheels need to me machined for extra clearance in the center for the Centerforce disc to fit properly. This should be covered in the instructions that came with the clutch. Wise choice on the Centerforce by the way, I have one in my truck too. Good luck, and welcome to the list! Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Ryan Sturz To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 12:39 AM Subject: [61-79-list] clutch replacement Greetings, I am new to the list and to Ford trucks and would like to take the opportunity to ask a question while I'm introducing myself. My wife and I purchased a 1977 F250 two weeks ago. According to the emissions test papers the truck has a 5.8 backed by a manual 4-speed transmission (the part with the 4 speeds I was able to verify :o)) Anyway, the clutch was slipping badly when I drove the truck home and went totally out on my way back from the parts store two days later after I had picked up a CenterforceI pressure plate with the disk and TO bearing. Now, I'm new to replacing clutches and even though I do have a rough idea of how to proceed I would be grateful for any pointers or hints. For instance, do I have to drop the tranny all the way or can I just slide it back a little while I work on the clutch (2-wheel drive)? Do I have to disconnect the shifter linkage from inside the cabin or from underneath? Do I have to drain the fluid before I pull the trans? Does the manual trannie have a dipstick? Where's the hole to refill it? Can I resurface the flywheel myself or do I have to take it in? While I'm under there, what's the difference between the big block and the small block bellhousing bolt pattern (I'd like to try to determine if thats an M or a W block)? I understand I just have to pay attention to aligning the disc, the rest will automatically drop into place? Thanks in advance for all the help anyone could offer and sorry for the somewhat lengthy post. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours, I'll be spending mine under the truck. Best regards, Ryan Sturz '77 F250 '70 Skylark Custom Convertible ------------------------------ From: "Bob" <xavetarx home.com>
Subject: Re: D60 brake job followup (long) Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 12:25:54 -0500 Eric, I reused the axle shaft gasket that mounts behind the 8 bolt, many times and have no leaks yet *fingers crossed* same with the lock washer. As long as there are tabs still in the proper location, you're good to go. -bob- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 13:08:42 -0600 From: barron <mustangalley adiis.net>
Subject: Re: [Fordnatics] 352 vs 351W compatibility The small block engines (289, 302, 351W and 351C) use a bell housing that is about 3/4” deeper than the FE bell housing. The transmission bolt pattern is the same on both bell housings. As long as the FE transmission has the standard small diameter, 10 spline input shaft (should be the case as the big diameter input shaft was used only on the 427 and 428 CJ engines as far as I know), you can use the transmission behind a small block if you use the special long pilot bearing Ford had designed just for this reason. I believe that this bearing was designed for use in trucks that required a special shorter case transmission so that only one transmission would be needed on the production line. A Ford Dealer or a good part store should be able to find a listing for this bearing. If you do not use this bearing, there is a chance that the end of the input shaft may not fit into the pilot bearing. I know that this set up works as I ran a 390 top loader behind a 289 in a 65 Mustang for a number of years. Regards Kim Barron ------------------------------ Date: 22 Nov 00 10:03:34 PST From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: clutch replacement] Garrett, Thanks for the hints, they already make me feel more comfortable about crawling under that thing tomorrow. My Centerforce didn't come with incredibly comprehensive instructions, only some cautions regarding certain Chevy applications... Thanks again, Ryan in SoCal > > Well when I replaced the clutch behind my 390 I pulled the engine. I would think that to replace the clutch with the engine installed, you will have to completely remove the tranny. There should be some kind of metal plate over the shifter. Removing that should give you access to the shift linkage. I would probably remove the shifter to get it out of the way. > > Be sure you get an alignment tool for the clutch disk. There are 2 styles, a universal metal one with lots of parts, and a one piece plastic one made just for your clutch. Either one will work, the plastic one will probably be cheaper but may be harder to find. I got the universal set, that way you can use it on other vehicles as well. > > Replacement is pretty straight-forward. Just follow the directions that are included. A shop manual with torque specs for the bolts is a good idea as well. You may wish to invest in some new pressure plate bolts, they are not that expensive and are good insurance. Get some good ARP or similar ones that are meant for pressure plate use. > > Manual trannies do not have dipsticks, there is usually a plug you remove to add fluid and check the level. You should not have to drain the fluid from the tranny for this, but now would be a good time to check it. > > Have a machine shop surface the flywheel. Oh, and try bolting the clutch to the flywheel to see how the disc fits before you have the flywheel machined. Some flywheels need to me machined for extra clearance in the center for the Centerforce disc to fit properly. This should be covered in the instructions that came with the clutch. > > Wise choice on the Centerforce by the way, I have one in my truck too. > > Good luck, and welcome to the list! > > > > Garrett www.1966ford.com ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
Subject: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 10:15:40 -0800 Goin' to Grandmas house for the holiday. She has a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Uses it for business and lives in the hills, so at 35K, it's time for brakes. Just got back from a visit with my smiling Daimler/Chrysler counterperson and after plunking down $254.29, I walked (limped, really) away with TWO sets of brake pads. That's it. $250 just for pads. Glad it's not me paying for it! FTE content: Drove my '77 E150 (which I could replace practically every brake component on the truck for that $250) to pick up the parts ------------------------------ From: "Randy Cannon" <rcannon ussynthetic.com>
Subject: Re: clutch replacement Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 11:15:02 -0700 I have replaced clutches both by removing the engine, and by removing the trans. The nice thing about removing the engine is you get to spend more time on your feet, as opposed to on your back under the truck. (personal preference) However, it is a generally simpler process to remove the trans., in terms of getting everything disconnected and out of the way. The newer the truck, the truer this becomes, as you find more and more stuff on the engine to disconnect and get out of the way. As for alignment tools: Although, I generally adhere to the "use the right tool for the right job" philosophy, I have never used an actual "alignment tool", I just use a screwdriver handle. Just tighten the pressure plate bolts tight enough to hold the disc in place, put the screwdriver handle through the disc center to the crankshaft center, and use the leverage at the tip of the screwdriver to move the disc until it's lined up. I just eyeball the alignment and tighten up the pressure plate bolts. Hope that made some sense. In any case, if you like buying tools, then get the alignment tool, but if your looking to save a buck, this has been a trouble-free procedure for me. -Randy '79 F250 Supercab, 460 -----Original Message----- Garrett Nelson Well when I replaced the clutch behind my 390 I pulled the engine. I would think that to replace the clutch with the engine installed, you will have to completely remove the tranny. Be sure you get an alignment tool for the clutch disk. ----- Original Message ----- Ryan Sturz Greetings, I am new to the list and to Ford trucks and would like to take the opportunity to ask a question while I'm introducing myself. My wife and I purchased a 1977 F250 two weeks ago. According to the emissions test papers the truck has a 5.8 backed by a manual 4-speed transmission (the part with the 4 speeds I was able to verify :o)) Anyway, the clutch was slipping badly when I drove the truck home and went totally out on my way back from the parts store two days later after I had picked up a CenterforceI pressure plate with the disk and TO bearing. Now, I'm new to replacing clutches and even though I do have a rough idea of how to proceed I would be grateful for any pointers or hints. For instance, do I have to drop the tranny all the way or can I just slide it back a little while I work on the clutch (2-wheel drive)? Do I have to disconnect the shifter linkage from inside the cabin or from underneath? Do I have to drain the fluid before I pull the trans? Does the manual trannie have a dipstick? Where's the hole to refill it? Can I resurface the flywheel myself or do I have to take it in? While I'm under there, what's the difference between the big block and the small block bellhousing bolt pattern (I'd like to try to determine if thats an M or a W block)? I understand I just have to pay attention to aligning the disc, the rest will automatically drop into place? Thanks in advance for all the help anyone could offer and sorry for the somewhat lengthy post. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours, I'll be spending mine under the truck. Best regards, Ryan Sturz '77 F250 '70 Skylark Custom Convertible ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: 22 Nov 00 10:40:33 PST From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: clutch replacement] Randy, I think I know what you mean, I'm sure it'll be totally clear when I look at it tomorrow. I agree on the standing up part, lying face down in a dirty parking lot has over time lost its charms to me as well but the engine seems to be doing fine at this point so no need to pull it. Saving a buck sounds good, I'm not hoping to re-use a clutch alignment tool again anytime soon (although I've been told it's only two bucks or so), I'll see how it works out and if I feel confident enough to "eyeball" the disc alignment properly. By the way, does anybody by chance have the torque specs for the pressure plate/ bellhousing handy? Thanks, Ryan in SoCal > I have replaced clutches both by removing the engine, and by removing the > trans. > > The nice thing about removing the engine is you get to spend more time on > your feet, as opposed to on your back under the truck. (personal preference) > > However, it is a generally simpler process to remove the trans., in terms of > getting everything disconnected and out of the way. The newer the truck, > the truer this becomes, as you find more and more stuff on the engine to > disconnect and get out of the way. > > As for alignment tools: Although, I generally adhere to the "use the right > tool for the right job" philosophy, I have never used an actual "alignment > tool", I just use a screwdriver handle. Just tighten the pressure plate > bolts tight enough to hold the disc in place, put the screwdriver handle > through the disc center to the crankshaft center, and use the leverage at > the tip of the screwdriver to move the disc until it's lined up. I just > eyeball the alignment and tighten up the pressure plate bolts. Hope that > made some sense. In any case, if you like buying tools, then get the > alignment tool, but if your looking to save a buck, this has been a > trouble-free procedure for me. > > -Randy > '79 F250 Supercab, 460 ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 12:51:02 -0600 Ouch. I think i paid that for my rotors pads and drums.. and even the bad caliper i dropped from my garage roof hehe -Don and then some lunch and beer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Southerland, Rich" <rsouther alldata.com>
To: "'ford list'" <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 12:15 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... > Goin' to Grandmas house for the holiday. She has a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. > Uses it for business and lives in the hills, so at 35K, it's time for > brakes. Just got back from a visit with my smiling Daimler/Chrysler > counterperson and after plunking down $254.29, I walked (limped, really) > away with TWO sets of brake pads. That's it. $250 just for pads. Glad > it's not me paying for it! > > FTE content: Drove my '77 E150 (which I could replace practically every > brake component on the truck for that $250) to pick up the parts > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: 22 Nov 00 11:03:00 PST From: Ryan Sturz <68classic usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...] Don, What were you doing with a brake caliper on your garage roof? :o))) Just curious... Ryan in CoCal > Ouch. I think i paid that for my rotors pads and drums.. > and even the bad caliper i dropped from my garage roof hehe ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 14:05:16 -0500 From: "William D. Poudrier" <vze259s7 verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles... How do I politely say you got shafted! Brake pads front/rear on www.wrenchhead.com are about $35. per set. I buy lots-o-parts on line and think that I get a relatively good deal Example: Oxy sensors for my 1987 Lincoln under $30.00 Ignition switch $12 +, Timing set $25 and so on. A full set of gaskets for my 79 F150 351M is $ 59 (Felpro) Bill At 10:15 AM 11/22/00 -0800, you wrote: >Goin' to Grandmas house for the holiday. She has a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. >Uses it for business and lives in the hills, so at 35K, it's time for >brakes. Just got back from a visit with my smiling Daimler/Chrysler >counterperson and after plunking down $254.29, I walked (limped, really) >away with TWO sets of brake pads. That's it. $250 just for pads. Glad >it's not me paying for it! > >FTE content: Drove my '77 E150 (which I could replace practically every >brake component on the truck for that $250) to pick up the parts > >============================================================= >To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Don Thurlow" <don.thurlow greenbaynet.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...] Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 13:06:39 -0600 I was mad because it wouldn't work. so I though you know maybe it needed a nice throw. But while i was up there i dropped my beer too :( so i dunno if it was worth it. Brakes work good though now.. even though i get a messed up cab :( -Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Sturz" <68classic usa.net>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 1:03 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: [Re: Yet another reason I drive old vehicles...] > Don, > > What were you doing with a brake caliper on your garage roof? :o))) > > Just curious... > > Ryan in CoCal > > > Ouch. I think i paid that for my rotors pads and drums.. > > and even the bad caliper i dropped from my garage roof hehe > > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
Advertising -
Terms of Use - Privacy Policy -
Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company. 
|